(19)
(11)EP 2 286 009 B1

(12)EUROPEAN PATENT SPECIFICATION

(45)Mention of the grant of the patent:
09.10.2019 Bulletin 2019/41

(21)Application number: 08874682.1

(22)Date of filing:  21.10.2008
(51)Int. Cl.: 
D02G 3/04  (2006.01)
(86)International application number:
PCT/EP2008/008884
(87)International publication number:
WO 2009/152842 (23.12.2009 Gazette  2009/52)

(54)

FABRIC OBTAINED BY WORKING YARN RESULTING FROM THE TWISTING OF ANIMAL FIBRES TWISTED WITH A STRAND OF SILK

TEXTILES FLÄCHENGEBILDE AUS EINEM DURCH VERDREHEN VON ANIMALISCHEN FASERN MIT EINEM SEIDENSTRANG ERHALTENEN GARN

TISSU OBTENU PAR UN FIL DE TRAVAIL RÉSULTANT DE LA TORSION DE FIBRES ANIMALES TORDUES AVEC UN FIL DE SOIE


(84)Designated Contracting States:
AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MT NL NO PL PT RO SE SI SK TR

(30)Priority: 29.05.2008 IT TO20080412

(43)Date of publication of application:
23.02.2011 Bulletin 2011/08

(73)Proprietor: Loro Piana S.p.A.
13017 Quarona (VC) (IT)

(72)Inventor:
  • LORO PIANA, Pier Luigi
    I-13011 Borgosesia (IT)

(74)Representative: Di Gennaro, Sergio et al
Barzanò & Zanardo Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 61
10128 Torino
10128 Torino (IT)


(56)References cited: : 
GB-A- 771 893
  
  • Holland & Sherry: "2005 Autumn/Winter CollectionSales Brochure" Web-site 2005, XP002598788 Retrieved from the Internet: URL:http://web.archive.org/web/20060704024 926/hollandandsherry.com/collections/winte r2005/ [retrieved on 2010-08-31]
  • Holland & Sherry: "2005 Autumn/Winter Collection Sales Brochure" Web-site 2005, XP002598789 Retrieved from the Internet: URL:http://web.archive.org/web/20060525135 949/www.hollandandsherry.com/collections/w inter2005/hs595.html [retrieved on 2010-08-31]
  • DATABASE WPI Week 200049 Thomson Scientific, London, GB; AN 2000-533490 XP002598889 & CN 1 247 241 A (LUANXING CASHMERE PROD CO LTD HEBEI PROV) 15 March 2000 (2000-03-15)
  • DATABASE WPI Week 199221 Thomson Scientific, London, GB; AN 1992-170073 XP002598891 & JP 4 091239 A (KANEBO LTD) 24 March 1992 (1992-03-24)
  • DATABASE WPI Week 200467 Thomson Scientific, London, GB; AN 2004-677847 XP002598892 & CN 1 477 252 A (GAO Z) 25 February 2004 (2004-02-25)
  • DATABASE WPI Week 200444 Thomson Scientific, London, GB; AN 2004-462501 XP002598893 & JP 2004 036037 A (NIPPON SANMO DYEING CO LTD) 5 February 2004 (2004-02-05)
  • DATABASE WPI Week 199342 Thomson Scientific, London, GB; AN 1993-331863 XP002598894 & JP 5 239727 A (KANEBO LTD) 17 September 1993 (1993-09-17)
  • DATABASE WPI Week 200879 Thomson Scientific, London, GB; AN 2008-N54134 XP002598890 & CN 101 285 228 A (JIANGSU LUGANG WOOL SPINNING GROUP CO LTD) 15 October 2008 (2008-10-15)
  
Note: Within nine months from the publication of the mention of the grant of the European patent, any person may give notice to the European Patent Office of opposition to the European patent granted. Notice of opposition shall be filed in a written reasoned statement. It shall not be deemed to have been filed until the opposition fee has been paid. (Art. 99(1) European Patent Convention).


Description


[0001] The subject of the invention is a fabric totally constituted by natural fibres with extremely light weights, which present, however, high characteristics of resistance and duration.

[0002] In particular, the fabric according to the invention is obtained by working yarn resulting from the twisting of animal fibres twisted with a strand of silk.

[0003] The. market requires with ever increasing frequency extremely light fabrics for summer wear, transpirant and comfortable, but with features of resistance and durability.

[0004] For the production of extremely light-weight fabrics, extremely fine yarn must be used and hence yarn having a very high ?count.

[0005] Weaving of individual threads with a high count is, however, impossible in so far as the necessary consistency is missing. The threads of wool or other fibres twisted in pairs prove to be too thick and hence unsuitable for the production of such light fabrics.

[0006] For these reasons, to obtain fabrics made of very light animal fibres normally threads twisted with yarns made of synthetic fibres (e.g., nylon) are used, which bestow consistency and resistance upon the yarn, without thickening the yarn and consequently increasing the weight of the fabric deriving therefrom.

[0007] The use of synthetic fibres, even in a small percentage, however, has a negative effect on the characteristics of transpirablity, thermoregulation and hygroscopicity, which are peculiar qualities of natural fibres, for example of wool and cashmere.

[0008] Also last-generation artificial and synthetic fibres withhold the heat of the body and are not very absorbent: this renders them far from indicated for making fabrics for clothing for summer wear.

[0009] According to GB771893, a yarn is spun from a blend of lambswool, cashmere e.g. "cashmere noils", real silk e.g. a first or second combing from the cocoon, and fur e.g. angora or opossum, in the proportions by weight of 15-40 per cent., 4+ per cent, 5-15 per cent., 45-65 per cent., e.g. 28 per cent., 5 per cent., 10 per cent., and 57 per cent., respectively. The components may be dyed separately and then blended by first blending the cashmere and silk together with an equal weight of lambswool, running this mixture through a teazing machine at a very slow rate, mixing this blend with the balance of the lambswool and the whole of the fur and adding an oil and water emulsion, and again teazing the whole of the fibre. If one fibre tends to form neps, such fibre may be teazed separately and added to the others during carding: if the fur tends to nep, then it may be separately blended with the lambswool and the full blend completed during carding.

[0010] There is thus proposed an original use of silk, a natural animal fibre, which has a good hygroscopicity and high insulating capacity, in addition to excellent mechanical properties (high elasticity and resistance to tensile stress).

[0011] In this way, yarns are obtained that can undergo a process of weaving and finishing, giving rise to a new series of fabrics, which, otherwise, using either the yarn of silk by itself or the yarn consisting of animal fibre alone, could not be obtained.

[0012] For these and further purposes that will be appreciated more fully hereinafter, the invention proposes the production of a fabric obtained by working yarns resulting from the twisting of natural fibres, characterized in that the natural fibres are animal fibres other than silk twisted with a strand of silk. The percentage by weight of said strand of silk ranges from 2% to 20%; consequently, the percentage by weight of animal fibers ranges from 98% to the 80%.

[0013] An extremely fine strand of silk is then twisted with yarn made of natural fibres (for example, cashmere, wool, mohair, vicuña, etc.) of various counts to obtain an extremely fine and at the same time resistant yarn, and hence a yarn suitable for being woven. The fabrics produced with these yarns reach extremely light weights, are transpirant and comfortable and resistant over time.

[0014] The percentage compositions and counts of the yarns can vary to obtain fabrics with different features and effects of an aesthetic nature and of feel.

[0015] Some examples of wool/silk and cashmere/silk yarns are listed in the table appearing in the next page.
TABLE
COUNT OF YARN COMPONENTS (Nm)% YARN COMPONENTS
SilkOther animal fibreSilkOther animal fibre
1/600 Cashmere 1/28 4.5% 95.5%
1/600 Cashmere 1/45 7% 93%
1/600 Wool 1/60 9.9% 90.1%
1/600 Wool 1/66 10% 90%
1/600 Wool 1/74 11.1% 88.9%
1/600 Wool 1/96 13.8% 86.2%
1/600 Wool 1/110 15.% 84.5%


[0016] The count of 1/600 for silk has been indicated in so far as it corresponds to a very fine thread, but it is understood that also threads having other counts can advantageously be used.

[0017] With percentages of threads of silk of 4.5% and of cashmere of 95.5% and a count of 1/28, the fabric that is obtained will not be particularly light or fine, but will in any case have characteristics that are acceptable for the purposes of the invention.

[0018] With percentages of threads of silk of 15% and of wool of 84.5% and a count of 1/110, certainly the fabric will be extremely light and extremely fine even though, with current techniques, we are at the limit of the possibility of working a yarn of wool with such a high count.

[0019] It may, however, be deemed that satisfactory results can be obtained even with percentages of threads of silk equal to but not lower than 2% and equal to but not higher than 20% with consequent percentages of the animal fibres that concur in the production of the fabric.

[0020] It may be readily understood that the combinations that can be obtained are multiple; everything depends upon the degree of fineness and lightness of the fabric that it is desired to obtain.


Claims

1. A fabric obtained by working yarn resulting from the twisting of a yarn of natural fibers, characterized in that said yarn of natural fibers are animal fibers other than silk twisted with a strand of silk and in that the percentage by weight of said strand of silk ranges from 2% to 20%; consequently, the percentage by weight of animal fibers ranges from 98% to the 80%.
 


Ansprüche

1. Gewebe, erhalten durch Verarbeiten von Garn, das aus dem Verdrehen eines Garns aus Naturfasern resultiert, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das Garn aus Naturfasern tierische Fasern sind, ausgenommen Seide, die mit einem Seidenstrang verdreht sind, und dass der Gewichtsprozentsatz des Seidenstrangs zwischen 2 % und 20 % liegt; folglich liegt der Gewichtsprozentsatz der Tierfasern zwischen 98 % und 80 %.
 


Revendications

1. Tissu obtenu en travaillant le fil résultant de la torsion d'un fil en fibres naturelles, caractérisé en ce que ledit fil en fibres naturelles est en fibres animales autres que de la soie torsadée avec un brin de soie, et en ce que le pourcentage en poids dudit brin de soie est compris entre 2 % et 20 % ; en conséquence, le pourcentage en poids de fibres animales est compris entre 98 % et 80 %.
 




REFERENCES CITED IN THE DESCRIPTION



This list of references cited by the applicant is for the reader's convenience only. It does not form part of the European patent document. Even though great care has been taken in compiling the references, errors or omissions cannot be excluded and the EPO disclaims all liability in this regard.

Patent documents cited in the description