(19)
(11)EP 3 373 756 B1

(12)EUROPEAN PATENT SPECIFICATION

(45)Mention of the grant of the patent:
20.05.2020 Bulletin 2020/21

(21)Application number: 17760447.7

(22)Date of filing:  01.02.2017
(51)International Patent Classification (IPC): 
A41B 1/16(2006.01)
A41B 3/00(2006.01)
(86)International application number:
PCT/US2017/016090
(87)International publication number:
WO 2017/151266 (08.09.2017 Gazette  2017/36)

(54)

EXPANDABLE AND FLEXIBLE SHIRT COLLAR STAND AND SHIRT WITH SAME

EXPANDIERBARER UND FLEXIBLER HEMDKRAGENSTÄNDER UND HEMD DAMIT

PIED DE COL DE CHEMISE EXTENSIBLE ET SOUPLE ET CHEMISE COMPORTANT CELUI-CI


(84)Designated Contracting States:
AL AT BE BG CH CY CZ DE DK EE ES FI FR GB GR HR HU IE IS IT LI LT LU LV MC MK MT NL NO PL PT RO RS SE SI SK SM TR

(30)Priority: 29.02.2016 US 201662301075 P

(43)Date of publication of application:
19.09.2018 Bulletin 2018/38

(73)Proprietor: Talon Technologies Inc.
Woodland Hills, California 91367 (US)

(72)Inventor:
  • ROUP, Herman
    Santa Barbara, California 93109 (US)

(74)Representative: Bach, Alexander 
Mitscherlich PartmbB Patent- und Rechtsanwälte Sonnenstraße 33
80331 München
80331 München (DE)


(56)References cited: : 
WO-A1-94/28227
GB-A- 454 417
US-A- 1 963 004
US-A- 3 693 191
US-A- 5 848 439
US-A1- 2015 113 697
US-B2- 7 146 647
DE-A1- 2 022 108
US-A- 1 776 975
US-A- 3 629 866
US-A- 3 831 200
US-A1- 2002 120 974
US-A1- 2015 113 697
  
      
    Note: Within nine months from the publication of the mention of the grant of the European patent, any person may give notice to the European Patent Office of opposition to the European patent granted. Notice of opposition shall be filed in a written reasoned statement. It shall not be deemed to have been filed until the opposition fee has been paid. (Art. 99(1) European Patent Convention).


    Description

    FIELD OF THE INVENTION



    [0001] This invention relates to garments and garment manufacture. More particularly, this invention relates to shirts and expandable shirt collars.

    BACKGROUND AND OVERVIEW



    [0002] Shirts, especially men's dress shirts, are typically sized based on collar circumference and sleeve length. Some shirts, especially men's dress shirts are generally sized to be worn with the collar closed (e.g., buttoned), and so any shrinkage in the collar will adversely affect the wearer. Unfortunately the fabrics used for most dress shirts is subject to shrinkage from laundering, and so most dress shirts may become difficult or uncomfortable to wear after multiple washes. In addition, the wearer of a shirt may gain weight, thereby increasing their neck size and making their dress shirts difficult to close at the neck. DE 20 22 108 A1 discloses a shirt according to the preamble of claim 1.

    [0003] It is desirable to provide a shirt collar stand that expands, as needed, while keeping its shape, and for it to return to its original length. It is further desirable to provide a shirt collar stand with little or no shrinkage. It is also desirable to provide a shirt collar stand that flexes when worn to eliminate the puckering where it joins the back yoke. It is further desirable to provide a shirt with such a collar stand.

    BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS



    [0004] Various other objects, features and attendant advantages of the present invention will become fully appreciated as the same becomes better understood when considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which like reference characters designate the same or similar parts throughout the several views, and wherein:

    FIG. 1 depicts aspects of a shirt collar according to exemplary embodiments hereof;

    FIG. 2 depicts an exploded view of aspects of the shirt collar of FIG. 1; and

    FIG. 3 depicts aspects of a collar stand according to exemplary embodiments hereof;

    FIG. 4 is a side view of the shirt collar attached to a shirt using the collar stand according to exemplary embodiments hereof; and

    FIG. 5 depicts aspects of a shirt collar attached to a shirt using the collar stand according to exemplary embodiments hereof.


    DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENTLY PREFERRED EXEMPLARY EMBODIMENTS



    [0005] FIG. 1 shows a shirt 10 incorporating a collar according to exemplary embodiments hereof. A collar stand 12 is attached to the body of the shirt body 14, e.g., by being sewn along the line X-X'. The collar stand 12 may have a button 16 on one end thereof, and a buttonhole 18 on the other end, and typically defines the shirt's neck size. A collar 20 is attached to the collar stand 12, e.g., by inserting a substantially rigid portion of the collar 20 into the collar stand 12, and sewing along the line Y-Y'. FIG. 2 depicts an exploded view of aspects of the shirt collar of FIG. 1.

    [0006] With reference now to FIG. 3, a collar stand 12 according to exemplary embodiments hereof, is formed from two substantially matching pieces, an inner piece 22, and an outer piece 24. The inner piece 22 is positioned to be on the inside of the shirt 10, when worn, while the outer piece 24 is positioned to be on the outside of the shirt 10, when worn. The inner and outer pieces 22, 24, are overlaid to form the collar stand 12. The collar stand 12 preferably curves around the neck when attached to a shirt and worn.

    [0007] For the purposes of this description, the length of the collar stand 12 is the horizontal dimension in the drawings, and the width of the collar stand is the vertical dimension. A collar stand need not have the same width across its length (i.e., it may be wider at some points than at others). Similarly, a collar stand need not have the same length across its width (i.e., it may be longer at some points than at others). For example, with reference to FIG. 1, the length Y-Y' need not be the same as the length X-X'. As is generally understood, the length of the collar stand 12 is the longer dimension, its width being the shorter dimension.

    [0008] The inner and outer pieces 22 24 of the collar stand 12 are each formed by fusing together a self-fabric with a two-way fusible substrate. A two-way fusible substrate is a fusible substrate that provides stretch and recovery in two directions, typically, but not necessarily, vertical to each other. In preferred embodiments the two-way fusible substrate has greater stretch in the horizontal or length direction thereof, preferably about 90% horizontal stretch, with the other direction of stretch being about 10%.

    [0009] The self-fabric used to form the inner and outer pieces 22, 24 may be any general shirting fabric, including cotton, poly-cotton, linen, etc. The self-fabric may, but need not be, the same fabric as the shirt.

    [0010] The self-fabric used to form the pieces 22, 24 may be cut in any way, including, e.g., along its length, breadth, or on a bias.

    [0011] The self-fabric used to form the pieces 22, 24 may initially be with or without stretch (e.g., a compacted woven or compacted knit material).

    [0012] In some embodiments, the pieces of the collar stand (i.e., the inner and outer pieces 22, 24) may be formed by first compacting the underlying self-fabric to give it stretch properties, and then combining the compacted underlying self-fabric with the two-way fusible substrate (to control and give memory to the stretch imposed by the compaction). As should be appreciated, the underlying self-fabric has the capacity to extend, and that the extension and recovery is affected by the fusible substrate.

    [0013] FIG. 4 shows a side view of the shirt collar 20 attached to a shirt body 14 using the collar stand 24, according to exemplary embodiments hereof.

    [0014] As noted above, the bottom of the collar stand 12 is attached to the shirt body 14, e.g., along the line X-X' (FIGS. 1-2). The top of the collar stand 12 is attached to the collar 20, e.g., by being sewn along the line Y-Y' (FIGS. 1-2).

    [0015] With reference to FIGS. 2 and 4, to connect the collar 20 to the collar stand 12, a lower and substantially rigid portion of the collar 20 is positioned between the inner and outer pieces 22, 24 of the collar stand 12 and the pieces are connected (e.g., stitched together). The width (W1) of the lower portion of the collar 20 that is positioned between the inner and outer pieces 22, 24 of the collar stand 12 is preferably about 0,3175 cm (1/8 inch) to 0,635 cm (1/4 inch).

    [0016] The inner and outer pieces 22, 24 of the collar stand 12 are preferably formed from fabric having stretch and recovery in two directions. Preferably, the collar stand 12 has stretch and recovery in a substantially horizontal direction, substantially parallel to the bottom of the collar stand, thereby to the top of the shirt. The collar stand also preferably has stretch and recovery in a substantially vertical direction, substantially vertical to the bottom of the collar stand, thereby to the top of the shirt.

    [0017] To attach the collar stand 12 to the shirt body 14, a top portion of the shirt body 14 is positioned between the inner and outer pieces 22, 24 of the collar stand 12 and the pieces are stitched together. The width (W2) of the shirt portion of the collar 20 that is positioned between the inner and outer pieces of the collar stand is preferably about 0,3175 cm (1/8 inch) to 0,635 cm (1/4 inch).

    [0018] It should be appreciated that the width W1 should be sufficient to maintain the collar 20 in the collar stand 12 without taking up too much space in the collar stand 12. Similarly, the width W2 should be sufficient to maintain the collar stand 12 connected to the shirt body, also without taking up too much space in the collar stand 12.

    [0019] With reference to FIG. 5, the width W3 of the portion of the collar stand 12 that does not cover either a portion of the collar 20 or a portion of the shirt 14 is preferably at least 80% of the total width of the collar stand 12, at least for a substantial length of the collar stand 12. Those of ordinary skill in the art will realize and appreciate, upon reading this description, that if the portions of the collar and shirt that are within the collar stand 12 are too large, then the collar stand will lose some of its stretch and/or recovery properties. In some preferred embodiments hereof the width W3 averages between 50% and 95% of the total width (W) of the collar stand 12. In other words, the sum of the widths W1 and W2 averages between 5% and 50% of the total width (W) of the collar stand 12. That is, preferably W1+W2 is between 5% and 50% of W along the length of the collar stand 12. For example, an exemplary collar stand has a total width of about 3,175 cm (1 1/4 inches) (W), the width (W1) of the lower portion of the collar is about 0,635 cm (1/4 inch), and the width (W2) of the shirt portion is also about 0,635 cm (1/4 inch). In this example, the width (W3) is about 1,905 cm (3/4 inch) or 60% of the total width (W) of the collar stand.

    [0020] As noted, the inner and outer pieces 22, 24 of the collar stand 12 are not necessarily parallel, and so the widths W1 and W2, and the width W3 may not be the same across the entire collar stand 12.

    [0021] As noted, according to the invention, the collar 20, or at least the lower portion of the collar 20 that is attached to the collar stand 12, is substantially rigid. In some preferred embodiments, e.g., for dress shirts and the like, the entire collar 20 is substantially rigid. The shirt body is generally not rigid, and therefore the bottom of the collar stand 12 can grow/expand larger than the top. A collar stand that is about 15% compacted will match the stretch of the attached shirt and may also match the stretch of a stretch shirt.

    [0022] The combined collar and collar stand described herein provides numerous advantages over prior approaches. Since the collar stand has been compacted, it will not shrink as much as a non-compacted collar. However, when the collar stand does expand, it will return substantially to its original length.

    [0023] As described above, the collar stand 12 is connected to the shirt body 14. As understood by those of ordinary skill in the art, the collar stand 12 is connected to different parts of the shirt body 14. In the back of the shirt, the collar stand 12 is typically connected to the shirt's yoke or to a back panel of the shirt. The collar stand described herein reduces puckering at the connection of the collar stand to the shirt.

    [0024] This puckering usually happens as a result of shrinkage in opposite directions or stretch in opposite directions giving an uneven appearance after washing, or by incorrect sewing tension used when joining the collar stand to the shirt (e.g., to the shirt's yoke).

    [0025] With the collar stand being able to move in two directions, it enables the collar stand to remain flat or greatly reduce the puckering that normally occurs, especially when the fabric has to curve all around the neck.

    [0026] Thus is described a shirt collar stand that expands, as needed, while keeping its shape, and which returns substantially to its original length. The described shirt collar stand has little or no shrinkage, and flexes when worn to eliminate puckering where it joins the back yoke of the shirt.

    [0027] Where a process is described herein, those of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that the process may operate without any user intervention. In another embodiment, the process includes some human intervention (e.g., a step is performed by or with the assistance of a human).

    [0028] As used in this description, the term "portion" means some or all. So, for example, "A portion of P" may include some of "P" or all of "P". In the context of a conversation, the term "portion" means some or all of the conversation.

    [0029] As used herein, including in the claims, the phrase "at least some" means "one or more," and includes the case of only one. Thus, e.g., the phrase "at least some ABCs" means "one or more ABCs", and includes the case of only one ABC.

    [0030] As used herein, including in the claims, the phrase "using" means "using at least," and is not exclusive. Thus, e.g., the phrase "using Z" means "using at least Z." Unless specifically stated by use of the word "only", the phrase "using Z" does not mean "using only Z."

    [0031] In general, as used herein, including in the claims, unless the word "only" is specifically used in a phrase, it should not be read into that phrase.

    [0032] As used herein, including in the claims, the phrase "distinct" means "at least partially distinct." Unless specifically stated, distinct does not mean fully distinct. Thus, e.g., the phrase, "X is distinct from Y" means "X is at least partially distinct from Y," and does not mean "X is fully distinct from Y." Thus, as used herein, including in the claims, the phrase "X is distinct from Y" means that X differs from Y in at least some way.

    [0033] It should be appreciated that the words "first" and "second" in the description and claims are used to distinguish or identify, and not to show a serial or numerical limitation. Similarly, the use of letter or numerical labels (such as "(a)", "(b)", and the like) are used to help distinguish and / or identify, and not to show any serial or numerical limitation or ordering.

    [0034] While the invention has been described in connection with what is presently considered to be the most practical and preferred embodiments, it is to be understood that the invention is not to be limited to the disclosed embodiment, but on the contrary, is intended to cover various modifications included within the scope of the appended claims.


    Claims

    1. A shirt (10) comprising a collar (20), wherein the shirt (10) further comprises:

    a collar stand (12) attached to a shirt body (14),

    wherein the collar stand (12) is formed from a self fabric,

    wherein said collar stand comprises an inner piece (22) and an outer piece (24), and

    wherein the inner piece (22) and the outer piece (24) are each formed from the self-fabric fused with a fusible substrate, and wherein the inner piece has substantially the same shape and size as the outer piece,

    characterized in that the collar stand has stretch and recovery in at least two non-opposing directions thereof, and

    wherein said collar stand (12) is attached to a substantially rigid portion of said collar (20), and

    in that the fusible substrate provides and controls stretch and recovery in two directions, and

    in that the fusible substrate has greater stretch in one of said two directions.


     
    2. The shirt (10) of claim 1,
    wherein the self-fabric of the collar stand (12) is selected from: a shirting fabric, cotton, poly-cotton, and linen, and
    wherein the shirt fabric comprises a fabric selected from: a shirting fabric, cotton, poly-cotton, and linen.
     
    3. The shirt (10) of claim 2, wherein the self-fabric of the collar stand (12) is the same as the fabric of the shirt (10).
     
    4. The shirt (10) of any one of claims 1-3, wherein the fusible substrate is a two-way fusible substrate.
     
    5. The shirt (10) of claim 1, wherein one of said two non-opposing directions is substantially vertical to the other of the two non-opposing directions.
     


    Ansprüche

    1. Hemd (10) mit einem Kragen (20), wobei das Hemd (10) ferner aufweist:

    einen Kragenständer (12), der an einem Hemdkörper (14) befestigt ist,

    wobei der Kragenständer (12) aus einem Eigengewebe gebildet ist,

    wobei der Kragenständer ein inneres Stück (22) und ein äußeres Stück (24) aufweist, und

    wobei das innere Stück (22) und das äußere Stück (24) jeweils aus dem mit einem aufschmelzbaren Substrat verschmolzenen Eigengewebe gebildet sind, und wobei das innere Stück im Wesentlichen die gleiche Form und Größe wie das äußere Stück aufweist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass

    der Kragenständer Dehnung und Rückverformung in mindestens zwei nicht entgegengesetzte Richtungen aufweist, und

    wobei der Kragenständer (12) an einem im Wesentlichen starren Abschnitt des Kragens (20) befestigt ist, und

    dass das aufschmelzbare Substrat Dehnung und Rückverformung in zwei Richtungen ermöglicht und kontrolliert, und

    dass das aufschmelzbare Substrat eine größere Dehnung in einer der beiden genannten Richtungen aufweist.


     
    2. Das Hemd (10) nach Anspruch 1,
    wobei das Eigengewebe des Kragenständers (12) ausgewählt ist aus: einem Hemdengewebe, Baumwolle, Poly-Baumwolle und Leinen, und
    wobei das Hemdengewebe ein Gewebe umfasst, das ausgewählt ist aus: einem Hemdengewebe, Baumwolle, Poly-Baumwolle und Leinen.
     
    3. Das Hemd (10) nach Anspruch 2, wobei das Eigengewebe des Kragenständers (12) dasselbe ist wie das Gewebe des Hemdes (10).
     
    4. Das Hemd (10) nach einem der Ansprüche 1-3, wobei das aufschmelzbare Substrat ein beidseitig aufschmelzbares Substrat ist.
     
    5. Das Hemd (10) nach Anspruch 1, wobei eine der beiden nicht entgegengesetzten Richtungen im wesentlichen vertikal zu der anderen der beiden nicht entgegengesetzten Richtungen ist.
     


    Revendications

    1. Chemise (10) comprenant un col (20), la chemise (10) comprenant en outre :

    un pied de col (12) attaché à un corps de chemise (14),

    le pied de col (12) étant formé d'un même tissu,

    ledit pied de col comprenant une pièce intérieure (22) et une pièce extérieure (24), et

    la pièce intérieure (22) et la pièce extérieure (24) étant chacune formées à partir du même tissu thermofixé avec un substrat thermofusible, et

    la pièce intérieure ayant sensiblement la même forme et la même taille que la pièce extérieure,
    caractérisé en ce que

    le pied de col est étirable et récupérable dans au moins deux directions non opposées de celui-ci, et

    ledit pied de col (12) est attaché à une partie sensiblement rigide dudit col (20), et

    en ce que le substrat thermofusible fournit et règle l'étirement et la récupération dans deux directions, et

    en ce que le substrat thermofusible présente un étirement plus important dans l'une desdites deux directions.


     
    2. Chemise (10) selon la revendication 1,
    le même tissu du pied de col (12) étant choisi parmi : un tissu pour chemiserie, du coton, du poly-coton et du lin, et
    le tissu pour chemiserie comprenant un tissu choisi parmi : un tissu pour chemiserie, du coton, du poly-coton et du lin.
     
    3. Chemise (10) selon la revendication 2, le même tissu du pied de col (12) étant identique au tissu de la chemise (10).
     
    4. Chemise (10) selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 3, le substrat thermofusible étant un substrat thermofusible bidirectionnel.
     
    5. Chemise (10) selon la revendication 1, l'une desdites deux directions non opposées étant sensiblement verticale par rapport à l'autre des deux directions non opposées.
     




    Drawing

















    Cited references

    REFERENCES CITED IN THE DESCRIPTION



    This list of references cited by the applicant is for the reader's convenience only. It does not form part of the European patent document. Even though great care has been taken in compiling the references, errors or omissions cannot be excluded and the EPO disclaims all liability in this regard.

    Patent documents cited in the description