[0001] This invention relates to a method of forming raised creases on made-up garments
and/or cut fabrics, and the garments obtained by the said method.
[0002] In particular, the invention involves applying a layer of adhesive material to the
wrong side of the fabric of a garment in correspondence with the areas in which the
crease is to be obtained, folding the fabric and joining the opposite surfaces of
the crease on the wrong side of the fabric, and possibly subjecting the garment to
aging and/or fading treatment using common techniques such as stone-washing and the
like. This system produces garments with substantially permanent raised creases giving
a worn look, which can be chosen as required and used to produce the desired effect
on the garment.
[0003] In the fashion trade, in which new ideas and effects are constantly being sought,
garments and fabrics may undergo various kinds of processing designed to produce signs
of wear, even on new fabrics and garments.
[0004] Different methods of obtaining these effects are known, ranging from stone-washing,
abrasion methods using tools of various kinds, chemical methods such as bleaching
and fading, and systems involving various kinds of mechanical actions such as brushing,
scratching and the like.
[0005] Italian patent no. 1,296,222 describes a process for producing signs of creasing,
crumpling, etc. of random shape on made-up garments, comprising the stages of:
- crumpling and/or crushing the garment
- subsequently treating it with techniques that modify the surface colour of the more
or less exposed parts.
[0006] This invention, which relates to a method of producing raised creases with a random
or pre-determined pattern on made-up garments in order to improve the appearance of
the product, falls into this sector.
[0007] The applicant has conducted various trials, during which it was found that a fabric
which is impregnated with a resinous product, subjected by pressing to crumpling and/or
creasing and then light-cured, maintains its creases for a certain number of machine
washes.
[0008] However, these creases tend to become less evident with time, especially if the garment
is ironed. In addition, this method requires treatment of all or the majority of the
fabric.
[0009] The purpose of this invention is to provide a procedure which enables creases to
be aged in an evident manner, using processes of various kinds which age, colour or
fade the surface line of the crease, and enables creases to be formed after the garment
has been made up and has already undergone dyeing or fading operations.
[0010] Another aim of the invention is to provide a procedure which produces fixed, well-defined
creases that are not modified by machine washing or ironing.
[0011] This invention will now be described in detail, by reference to the annexed figures
in which:
- figure 1 illustrates an example of trousers with creases obtained by the procedure
in accordance with the invention
- figure 2 schematically illustrates a stage in the crease-making process.
[0012] The procedure in accordance with the invention involves:
- marking reference marks on the wrong side of the fabric in correspondence with the
areas in which the creases are to be formed
- applying a layer of hot glue along the required line
- folding the fabric along the crease line to join the two parts of the fabric destined
to constitute the crease
- sealing the crease.
[0013] When this operation is finished, it can be followed if required by aging and/or fading
treatment using known techniques.
[0014] For this purpose, the garment is subjected to procedures such as stone-washing, scratching,
brushing or chemical fading processes.
[0015] As the creases are raised, these actions, in particular mechanical actions, are performed
most intensely on the edge of the crease, thus enhancing the required aging effect.
It is usually sufficient to spread the layer of glue on two strips of fabric a short
distance apart which, when joined, will constitute the base of the crease, as shown
in figure 2, where the strips covered with adhesive material are indicated by the
numbers 1 and 2.
[0016] It is now possible to join the fabric by gluing along the entire height of the crease,
to obtain a more rigid crease. The rigidity of the crease can be increased if necessary
by stitching or the like.
[0017] At the time of manufacture of the garment, it is necessary to take account of the
size and number of creases to be made and the area in which they are located, and
use a larger amount of fabric than normal in that area because the garment will become
smaller after formation of the creases, and will not fit correctly unless an extra
fabric allowance has been included. In other cases, the garment can be made from the
same amount of fabric as when creases are not incorporated, by exploiting the deformations
imparted to the garment when the creases are made to obtain original shapes.
[0018] The creases can be made by hand, by ironing or with a press, and can be straight
or curved. The adhesive used can be a thermoplastic adhesive in the case of hot joining,
or an adhesive based on polyurethane and/or silicone in the case of cold joining.
[0019] The adhesive is spread on the wrong side of the fabric along the desired line, and
the two adhesive-covered parts of the fabric are brought together at that point and
permanently sealed.
[0020] At the end of this operation, a crease of the required length and height will be
observed on the right side of the fabric.
[0021] Strips of thermoplastic material such as PVC or the like could also be clamped between
two strips of fabric and then fused together to join them and produce the crease.
[0022] Creases can be made on garments before washing, dyeing, spraying, mechanical abrasion
and/or aging, at an intermediate stage during these treatments or after the said treatments.
[0023] For example, garments made of denim can be subjected to mechanical aging by sanding,
scratching or brushing, then machine-washed with chemical/physical treatments, and
the creases made on the treated garment.
[0024] The creases can also be made before the other treatments are performed.
[0025] The result is that evident signs of wear appear on the creases, which is very important,
because when garments with creases made by resining, creasing and light-curing of
the resin are treated subsequently, the wear is much less visible, because in some
cases the treatment does not greatly alter the surface of the fabric.
[0026] If it is preferred to obtain a treated garment that presents no signs of wear on
the edge of the creases, it is sufficient to perform the aging and/or fading treatment
before making the creases.
[0027] Unlike systems in which creases, pleats and the like are made by sewing, the system
in accordance with the invention can be used to produce creases which cross seams
and pass into areas such as the inside leg, hip, etc., and simulate the creases normally
formed on garments by wear.
[0028] Creased garments may be subjected to treatment in rotating racks containing abrasive
materials with or without water, subjected to total or partial immersion in baths
of dyeing or fading chemicals, brushed or sprayed with neutral, transparent or coloured
resinous products, scratched, sanded, brushed, etc.
[0029] When creases are formed on made-up garments, it is possible to insert an inflatable
shape into the creased garment, perform treatments and then, after inflating the shape,
perform aging treatments which will have a more marked effect at the creases, giving
the garment a naturally worn look.
[0030] Alternatively, creases can be made on cut fabric before the garment is made up. An
expert in the field could devise numerous modifications and variations, all of which
should be deemed to fall within the scope of this invention.
1. Method of forming raised creases on made-up garments and/or cut fabrics, characterised
in that it includes the following stages:
- application of a layer of adhesive material to the wrong side of the fabric in correspondence
with the areas where the creases are to be made
- folding of the fabric so as to bring the two inner surfaces of the crease on the
wrong side of the fabric into contact with one another.
2. Method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that it includes a subsequent stage
of aging and/or fading treatment.
3. Method as claimed in the preceding claims, in which the layer of adhesive material
is only applied in correspondence with two strips of fabric at the base of the crease.
4. Method as claimed in claims 1 and 2, in which the layer of adhesive material is applied
to the entire inner surface of the crease.
5. Method as claimed in the preceding claims, in which a thermoplastic adhesive is applied
hot.
6. Method as claimed in claims 1 to 4, in which a polyurethane- and/or silicone-based
adhesive is used for cold gluing.
7. Method as claimed in the preceding claims, characterised in that the stages of treatment
following crease-making involve a treatment such as stone-washing, scratching, sanding,
brushing, fading and/or dyeing with chemical agents.
8. Method as claimed in any of claims 1 to 6, characterised in that an inflatable shape
is inserted into the made-up garment, the said shape is inflated, and aging treatment
is then performed on the creases.
9. Method as claimed in any of the preceding claims, characterised in that the creases
are made on the cut fabric before the garment is sewn.
10. Garments made by the method as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims.