DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention concerns the technical sector relating to the realisation of
shoes, with particular reference to those shoes known as the GOODYEAR type.
[0002] As is known, these shoes are particularly appreciated in that they are both comfortable
and sturdy.
[0003] The process for realising a semi-finished workpiece for a GOODYEAR shoe includes
various steps which for a long time have been carried out almost entirely manually.
[0004] As illustrated in figure 1, a semi-finished workpiece for a GOODYEAR shoe is substantially
composed of: an underfoot insole 101, provided with a body 111 made of a flexible
material, an upper 103 and a welt 104.
[0005] The insole 101 further comprises a border 102 (a sort of edge) which is perpendicularly
fixed to the body 111 of the insole 101, which border 102 identifies a closed profile
which follows the profile of the body 111 of the insole 101.
[0006] In particular, the border 102 is fixed to the body 111 so as to be at a certain distance
from the perimeter thereof, and is applied on the face of the body 111 destined to
be facing the ground, once the shoe obtained with the semi-finished workpiece is in
use.
[0007] In substance, the operations for realising a semi-finished workpiece 100 for a GOODYEAR
shoe consist in assembling the border 102 of the insole 101, the perimeter edge 103B
of the upper 103 and the welt 104 with respect to one another.
[0008] During the assembly, the various elements (border, edge 103B of the upper 103 and
the welt 104) must clearly be maintained flanked and aligned to one another: the manual
procedure for this motive is particularly complex, and can be carried out only by
very specialised personnel.
[0009] Publication
EP2497384, in the name of the Applicant, discloses a sewing machine able to realise a semi-finished
work-piece for a shoe of the GOODYEAR type which significantly reduces times and costs
due to manual working.
[0010] A machine of this type substantially comprises (see figure 3, in which the known
machine N is partially illustrated):
a curved needle 4, borne by an arm 3 activated in alternating oscillating motion,
in such a way as to follow a curved trajectory during an outward run, in a first oscillating
direction W, in which it is brought from a retracted position to an advanced position,
and during a return run, in a second oscillating direction Q, opposite the first oscillating
direction W, in which it is brought from the relative advanced position to the relative
retracted position;
a device with a rotary hook 5, for cooperating with the curved needle 4 for realising
sewing stitches of the semi-finished workpiece 100; the rotary hook 5 device comprises
an external part 50 and an internal part 51 (rotary crotchet), activatable in a rotation
direction R opposite the direction followed by the needle 4 of the outward run thereof;
translating means (not illustrated) for synchronously translating the curved needle
4 and the rotary hook device 5, with alternating motion, in runs of a predetermined
step;
a plate (not visible in figure 3) for supporting the insole 101;
an abutment 2, arranged along the trajectory of the needle 4, transversally, for encountering
the side of the border 102 opposite the one flanked to the border 103B of the upper
103 (see in particular figure 4), and provided with a through-hole for enabling transit
of the needle 4 and the entry thereof in the rotary hook device 5.
[0011] The positioning heights and the sizing of the above parts are standard, and enable
the illustrated machine N to realize a simultaneous sewing of the welt 104, the upper
103 and the border 102, which are passed through transversally in order by the curved
needle 4.
[0012] In particular, the radius of the circumference with a centre in the oscillation axis
of the needle 4 passing through the needle 4 (i.e. with an arc of circumference coinciding
with the needle 4) is 65 millimetres.
[0013] Further, in a Cartesian system defined by a perpendicular plane to the oscillating
axis of the needle 4 and by the rotation axis of the internal part 51 of the rotary
hook device 5 (see figure 3), the distance between the rotation axis of the internal
part 51 of the rotary hook device 5 and the oscillating axis of the needle 4 is comprised
between 4 and 44 millimetres along the y-axis of the Cartesian system (distance indicated
by G in figure 3), and 42.5 millimetres along the x-axis of the Cartesian system (distance
indicated by L in figure 3).
[0014] In a best hypothesis of sewing, the needle 4, having reached the relative advanced
position, must be in the situation indicated by A in figure 4. In other words, the
needle 4 should involve the welt 104, the perimeter edge 103B of the supper 103 and
the border 102 of the insole 101 in a position in proximity of the body 111 of the
insole 101, without however directly interfering with the insole 101.
[0015] However, experience has taught that the above-described best possible situation is
not always attained.
[0016] In fact, in practice, the needle 4, in the advanced position thereof, during the
sewing, is in the situation indicated by B (in a broken line) in figure 4.
[0017] This is mainly due to the reciprocal positioning between the rotary hook device 5,
abutment 2 and needle 4, which does not enable the needle 4 to penetrate into the
semi-finished workpiece 100 in the best way possible.
[0018] In fact this position, clearly visible in figure 3, necessarily requires that the
body 111 of the insole 101 is arranged and maintained, during the sewing procedure,
inclined with respect to a vertical reference axis passing through the rotation axis
of the rotary hook device 5 (still with reference to figure 3).
[0019] In detail, as visible in figure 4, the side of the border 102 abutted by the abutment
2 is also inclined with respect to the surface 20 of the abutment 2.
[0020] It is clear that the sewing stitches obtained in situation B of figure 4 do not guarantee
the optimal assemble of the semi-finished workpiece 100, which over time can lose
the sturdiness that distinguishes a shoe of the GOODYEAR type.
[0021] The aim of the present invention is to obviate the drawback.
[0022] The aim is attained according to claim 1.
[0023] The machine proposed with the present invention advantageously enables optimal sewing
of the semi-finished workpiece, guaranteeing that the shoe produced will have the
sturdiness typical of GOODYEAR shoes.
[0024] Unlike the prior art, in fact, the machine proposed in the present invention enables
the needle to penetrate the welt, the upper and the border in proximity of the body
of the insole, without however interfering with the insole.
[0025] Specific embodiments of the invention and further details not specified in the foregoing
will be set out in the following description, with the aid of the appended tables
of drawings, in which:
- figure 1 illustrates a semi-finished workpiece (welt, upper and insole) for realising
a shoe, in which the parts making it up have not been assembled;
- figure 2 is a larger-scale illustration of the section of the welt, obtained according
to plane II-II of figure 1;
- figure 3 is a lateral view of a sewing machine of known type during the realisation
of a semi-finished workpiece for a shoe, in which some parts have been removed better
to evidence others;
- figure 4 illustrates two operating situation during the sewing with a machine of the
prior art: an ideal situation (situation A) and a real situation (situation B);
- figure 5 illustrates a lateral view of a machine according to the invention during
the realising of a semi-finished workpiece for a shoe;
- figure 6 is a perspective view of a machine according to the invention during the
realising of a semi-finished workpiece in which the workpiece is only partially represented;
- figure 7 is a schematic illustration of a partial section of a machine according to
the invention, along the work plane of the needle.
[0026] In the following description, for the same elements described in relation to the
prior art the same numerical references have been used.
[0027] With reference to the enclosed figures (in particular figures 1 and 2), 100 denotes
a semi-finished workpiece suitable for realizing a shoe, in particular a shoe of the
GOODYEAR type.
[0028] The semi-finished workpiece 100 comprises an underfoot insole 101, in turn comprising
a body 111 (usually made of a flexible material) having a longitudinal development
and a border 102 fixed transversally to the body 111 (solidly constrained thereto).
In particular, the border 102 defines a closed profile which follows the profile of
the body 11 of the insole 101, and is fixed to the body 111 in such a way as to be
at a certain distance from the perimeter edge thereof. The border 102 is further arranged
on the face of the body 111 destined to be facing towards the ground, once the shoe
obtained with the semi-finished workpiece 100 is in use.
[0029] The semi-finished workpiece 100 further comprises an upper 103 and a welt 104, the
transversal section of which is illustrated in figure 2. Obviously the welt 104 has
a longitudinal development at least equal to the perimeter of the body 111 of the
insole 101 and the perimeter border 103B of the upper 103.
[0030] In detail, in order to proceed with the simultaneous sewing of the welt 104, the
upper 103 and the insole 101, they are arranged in such a way that the perimeter edge
103B of the upper 103 is flanked to and interposed between the welt 104 and the border
102 of the insole 101. In particular, the above elements must be aligned to one another
(see in particular figures 5 and 7).
[0031] The sewing machine M of the invention comprises: a curved needle 4, activatable along
a curved trajectory such as to perform an outward run, in a first oscillating direction
W, towards a sewing zone, and a return run, in a second oscillating direction Q opposite
the first oscillating direction W.
[0032] The machine M further comprises a rotary hook device 5, comprising an external part
50 and an internal part 51 activatable in rotation (rotary crochet). The rotary hook
device 5 is, arranged such as to at least internally partly receive the needle 4 during
the outward run thereof, such as to cooperate with the needle 4 for realising sewing
stitches in the semi-finished work-piece 100.
[0033] The machine M further comprises: translating means, able to synchronically translate
the needle 4 and the rotary hooking device 5, with alternating motion, in runs of
a size equal to a predetermined step (as will be more fully explained herein below);
and an abutment 2, positionable transversally along the trajectory of the needle 4
and comprising: a surface 20 for abutting the side of the border 102 opposite the
side thereof flanked to the perimeter edge 103B of the upper 103.
[0034] The abutment 2 further comprises a through-hole (not visible in the figures) arranged
in the surface 20 such as to enable transit of the needle 4 internally thereof, such
that the needle 4, during the outward run, can transversally penetrate the welt 104,
the perimeter edge 103B of the upper 103 and the border 102, reaching via the through-hole
into the rotary hook device 5.
[0035] In particular, the machine M of the invention is characterised in that the rotary
hook device 5 and the abutment 2 (and therefore likewise the rotary hooking device
5 and the needle 4) are reciprocally arranged such as to enable the side of the border
102 abutted by the surface 20 to match the said surface 20.
[0036] Further, the internal part 51 of the rotary hook device (5) is activatable in a rotation
direction (V) equal to the first oscillating direction (W) of the needle (4) (i.e.
in a same direction of oscillation as the needle 4 during the relative outward run).
[0037] In other words, once the side of the border 102 is abutted by the surface 20, the
border 102 is completely resting on the surface 20, i.e. in complete adhesion to the
surface 20.
[0038] In the prior art, on the other hand, because of the reciprocal positioning between
the rotary hook device and the abutment (and therefore between the rotary hook device
and the needle), once the side of the border was abutted by the surface of the abutment,
it was not completely resting thereon but, on the contrary, it was arranged inclined
with respect to the surface (see figure 4).
[0039] For this reason it was necessary to maintain the body of the insole in an inclined
position, with reference to figure 3, with respect to a vertical axis passing through
the rotation axis of the rotary hook device. Consequently, the sewing of the semi-finished
workpiece in the prior art was not done in an optimal way, precluding the sturdiness
of the shoe made with the semi-finished workpiece.
[0040] Looking at figure 5, it can be seen how the machine M of the invention, thanks to
the above-detailed specifications, is advantageously able to obviate the drawbacks
in the prior art.
[0041] In fact, the body 111 of the insole 101 can be arranged vertically (with reference
to figure 5), and the side of the border 102 opposite the one flanked to the edge
103B of the upper 103 matches (i.e. is in complete adhesion to) the surface 20 of
the abutment 2.
[0042] In this way, the needle 4 penetrates the welt 104, the perimeter edge 103B of the
upper 103 and the border 102, so as to be in proximity of the body 111 of the insole
101, without however interfering therewith.
[0043] Numerous experiments and general experience have led to establishing that the rotation
direction V of the internal part 50 of the rotary hook device 5 should be the same
as the first oscillation direction W of the needle 4, so as to realize sewing stitches
in the best way possible.
[0044] The invention includes positioning the rotary hook device 5 with respect to the needle
4 differently from the prior art (in which only standard heights were referred to).
[0045] The radius of the circumference with a centre in the oscillating axis of the needle
4 (i.e. with an arc of circumference coinciding with the needle 4) and passing through
the needle 4 is 65 millimetres.
[0046] In this situation, in a Cartesian system defined by a perpendicular plane to the
oscillating axis of the needle 4 and by the rotation axis of the internal part 51
of the rotary hook device 5 (with reference to figure 7), the distance between the
rotation axis of the internal part 51 of the rotary hook device 5 and the oscillating
axis of the needle 4 is comprised between 33.22 and 37.22 millimetres along the y-axis
of the Cartesian system (distance denoted by G in figure 7), and between 32.36 and
36.36 millimetres along the x-axis of the Cartesian system (a distance denoted by
L in figure 7).
[0047] In a preferred embodiment, the distance between the rotation axis of the internal
part 51 of the rotary hook device 5 and the oscillating axis of the needle 4 is 35.22
millimetres along the y-axis of the Cartesian system and 34.36 millimetres along the
x-axis of the Cartesian system.
[0048] With reference to the illustrated embodiment, the border 102 is perpendicular to
the body 111.
[0049] In other cases (a variant that is not illustrated) the border 102 is obtained by
making an oblique incision in the body of the insole, in more detail in the face thereof
destined to be facing towards the bottom of the shoe when the shoe is being used.
[0050] In this way a flap is defined, in proximity of the edge of the body, which is rotated
up to being arranged almost perpendicular to the longitudinal development of the body.
[0051] The needle 4 can be borne, for example, by an arm 3, part of the machine M, mobile
in an alternating oscillating motion so that the needle 4 follows the above-mentioned
trajectory in the relative outward and return runs. In the accompanying figures, the
oscillation axis of the needle 4 coincides with the oscillation axis of the arm 3.
[0052] As regards the external part 50 of the rotary hook device 5, it constitutes a sort
of support casing for the internal part 51. The internal part 51 comprises a rotary
hook provided with a point and a shuttle which contains the bobbin (or reel) necessary
for sewing the semi-finished workpiece.
[0053] In the illustrated embodiment, the abutment 2 is conformed such that an end 200 of
the relative surface 20 thereof faces the body 111 of the insole 101 when the border
102 is abutted by the surface 20 (see figure 7). The plane perpendicular to the surface
20 of the abutment 2 passing through the end 200 is external to or tangential to the
external part 50 of the rotary hook device 5. This specification is especially advantageous
in the embodiment of the figures, in which the border 102 is perpendicular to the
body 111.
[0054] Indeed, the insole 101 can be arranged in such a way that the body thereof is not
obstructed by the external part 50 of the rotary hook device 5 (in other words, the
external part 50 of the rotary hook device 5 does not interfere with the body 111
of the insole 101, once arranged as described above).
[0055] In the preferred embodiment of the invention, the machine M further comprises a plate
6, positionable in such a way that when the side of the border 102 is encountered
by the abutment 2, it stabilizes the body 111 of the insole 101 during the sewing
operations in cooperation with the abutment 2.
[0056] In particular, the plate 6 can be a circular plate and the machine M can comprise
an arm 60 bearing the plate 6.
[0057] The arm 60 is mobile between a retracted position and an advanced position, so as
to enable respectively the insertion of the body 111 of the insole 101 between the
plate 6 and the abutment 2, and the contacting of the body 111 of the insole 101 by
a part of the plate 6 so as to block it at least partially.
[0058] When the arm 60 is in the relative advanced position, the body 111 of the insole
101 is retained by the plate 6 and the abutment 2, and can slide between them.
[0059] In the illustrated embodiment of the figures, the machine M further comprises a guide
element 7, comprising at least a substantially C-shaped portion, for supporting and
guiding the welt 104 towards the sewing zone, where the needle 4 operates.
[0060] In particular, the welt 104 is arranged resting internally of the recess of the C-shaped
portion; the C-shaped portion is conformed such as to enable the support and the sliding
of the welt 104 at the same time.
[0061] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the machine M comprises separating means
8, arranged upstream of the sewing zone and conformed such as to insert between the
side of the border 102 flanked to the edge 103B of the upper 103 and the edge 103B
of the upper 103 itself. In detail, the separating means 8 are arranged upstream of
the sewing zone, so as to keep separate the portions of the border 102 and the border
103B of the upper 103 on which the needle 4 is still to operate.
[0062] The separating means 8 substantially comprise a mobile wall 80 (for example by means
of a slide, not illustrated) between two positions, advanced and retracted, so as
to enable a positioning of the elements to be sewn and thus arranged as mentioned
in the foregoing.
[0063] For some models of upper 103 and insole 101, the development of the respective perimeters
coincide; in this case, during the sewing step the same advancing of the welt 104,
the upper 103 and the border 102 is included for each point P of the line of sewing
to be realized.
[0064] For other models, the development of the perimeter of the upper 103, before the sewing,
is greater than that of the insole 101; in the presence of this characteristic, the
upper 103 has to be curled in the zone of the tip (i.e. in the zone which will constitute
the tip of the shoe), so as to gather in this greater development and obtain at the
same time the cambering, or "sharpening" thereof.
[0065] For this reason, the machine M can comprise a curling device 9, for performing the
above-described operation.
[0066] In this case, during the sewing step the advancement of the welt 104, upper 103 and
border 102 for each sewing stitch which does not relate to the tip zone, while an
increased advancement of the upper 103 is included, by a predetermined amount, with
respect to the advancement of the welt 104 and border 102, for each sewing stitch
to be made in the tip zone.
[0067] The process for realising the sewing of the semi-finished workpiece 100 will now
be described in detail.
[0068] First, the contrast element 6 is brought into the retracted position thereof, to
enable introduction of the body 111 of the underfoot insole 101, with the border 102
(perpendicular with respect to the body 111 of the figures) inserted between the abutment
2 and the separating means 8; thus the contrast element 6 is brought into the relative
advanced position (i.e. into the relative working position) so as to contact the body
111 of the insole 101 and retain it between the insole 101 and the abutment 2 (see
for example figure 7).
[0069] The upper 103 is then positioned, with the perimeter edge 103B thereof brought up
to the border 102, at least in the sewing zone.
[0070] The end of the welt 104 is also arranged (supported by the guide element 7) at the
sewing zone, positioned as already described with respect to the upper 103 and the
border 102.
[0071] At this point the operator starts up the machine M and begins sewing, taking care
to follow, with his or her hands, the advancement of the body 111 of the insole 101
and the upper 103, while the welt 104, once the first sewing stitch is realised, is
automatically drawn, supported by the guide element 7.
[0072] For the realisation of a sewing stitch, the needle 4 is activated, by means of the
aim 3, so as to perform the outward run thereof in the above-mentioned oscillation
direction W.
[0073] After passing beyond the welt 104, the perimeter edge 103B of the upper 103 and the
border 102 of the insole 101, the needle 4 engages the rotary hooking device 5 (thanks
to the presence of the hole present in the abutment 2).
[0074] The rotary hooking device 5 rotates in the direction V so as to realise the sewing
stitch (for example with two knotted threads).
[0075] The translating means move the needle 4 and simultaneously the rotary hook device
5 in a first translation in a first direction and a first translation direction, the
move being equal in size to a predetermined step: this consequently determines the
advancing of the semi-finished workpiece 100 downstream of the sewing zone.
[0076] Once the needle 4, activated to perform the relative return run, exits from the rotary
hook device 5, it is subjected to a second translation by the translating means, simultaneously
with the rotary hook device 5. The second translation takes place in the same direction
as the first direction, but in an opposite sense to the first translation, by an amount
equal to the first step. In other words, the needle 4 and the rotary hook device 5
are brought into the start position so as to realize a further sewing stitch.
[0077] This process, clearly, proceeds until the semi-finished workpiece 100 has been completely
assembled, i.e. until a closed line of sewing has been completed, involving the welt
104, the edge 103B of the upper 103 and the border 102 of the insole 101.
[0078] If the shoe model to be make required recuperating the greater development of the
perimeter of the upper 103 with respect to the perimeter of underfoot insole 101,
the operator activates the curling device 9 at the start of the curvature of the tip
of the semi-finished workpiece 100 and deactivates it only at the end of the curvature.
[0079] Before the machine M realises the last sewing stitches, the operator commands the
raising into an inoperative position of the separating means 8, so as to be able to
close the sewing line.
[0080] After having cut the threads, the plate 6 is brought into the retracted position
thereof, and the semi-finished workpiece extracted: the semi-finished workpiece is
suitable for use for realizing a shoe of the GOODYEAR type.
1. A sewing machine (M) for realising a semi-finished work-piece (100) for a shoe, the
semi-finished work-piece (100) comprising: an underfoot insole (101) comprising: a
body (111) having a longitudinal development and a border (102) fixed transversally
to the body (111), which border (102) defines a closed profile in proximity of the
perimeter edge of the body (111); an upper (103) and a welt (104); the insole (101),
the upper (103) and the welt (104) being arranged such that the perimeter edge (103B)
of the upper(103) is flanked to and interposed between the welt (104) and the border
(102) of the insole (101);
the machine (M) comprising: a curved needle (4), activatable along a curved trajectory
such as to perform an outward run, in a first oscillating direction (W), towards a
sewing zone, and a return run, in a second oscillating direction (Q), opposite the
first oscillating direction (W);
a rotary hook device (5), comprising an external part (50) and an internal part (51)
activatable in rotation, arranged such as to at least internally partly receive the
needle (4) during the outward run thereof, such as to cooperate with the needle (4)
for realising sewing stitches in the semi-finished work-piece (100);
translating means, able to synchronically translate the needle (4) and the rotary
hooking device (5), with alternating motion, in runs of a size equal to a predetermined
step;
an abutment (2), positionable transversally along the trajectory of the needle (4)
and comprising: a surface (20) for abutting the side of the border (102) opposite
the side thereof flanked to the perimeter edge (103B) of the upper (103); a through-hole,
arranged in the surface (20) such as to enable transit of the needle (4) internally
thereof, such that the needle (4), during the outward run, can transversally penetrate
the welt (104), the edge (103B) of the upper (103) and the border (102), reaching
via the through-hole into the rotary hook device (5);
the sewing machine (M) being
characterised in that:
the rotary hook device (5) and the abutment (2) are reciprocally arranged such as
to enable the side of the border (102) abutted by the surface (20) to match the said
surface (20);
and
in that:
the internal part (51) of the rotary hook device (5) is activatable in a rotation
direction (V) equal to the first oscillating direction (W) of the needle (4).
2. The machine (M) of claim 1, wherein the abutment (2) is conformed such that an end
(200) of the relative surface (20) thereof faces the body (111) of the insole (101)
when the border (102) is abutted by the surface (20); and wherein the plane perpendicular
to the surface (20) of the abutment (2) passing through the end (200) is external
to or tangential to the external part (50) of the rotary hook device (5).
3. The machine (M) of claim 1 or 2, wherein the radius of the circumference with a centre
in the oscillating axis of the needle (4) and passing through the needle (4) is 65
millimetres, and wherein, in a Cartesian system defined by a perpendicular plane to
the oscillating axis of the needle (4) and by the rotation axis of the internal part
(51) of the rotary hook device (5), the distance between the rotation axis of the
internal part (51) of the rotary hook device (5) and the oscillating axis of the needle
(4) is comprised between 33.22 and 37.22 millimetres along the y-axis of the Cartesian
system, and between 32.36 and 36.36 millimetres along the x-axis of the Cartesian
system.
4. The machine (M) of the preceding claim, wherein the distance between the rotation
axis of the internal part (51) of the rotary hook device (5) and the oscillating axis
of the needle (4) is 35.22 millimetres along the y-axis of the Cartesian system and
34.36 millimetres along the x-axis of the Cartesian system.
5. The machine (M) of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a contrast
element (6), positionable such that when the side of the border (102) is abutted by
the surface (20), the contrast element (6) stabilises the body (111) of the insole
(101) during the sewing operations, in cooperation with the abutment (2).
6. The machine (M) of the preceding claim, wherein the contrast element comprises a plate
(6), and wherein the machine (M) further comprises an arm (60), which bears the plate
(6) and which is mobile between two end positions, respectively retracted and extended.
7. The machine (M) of any one of the preceding claims, further comprising a guide element
(7), comprising at least a substantially C-shaped portion, for supporting and guiding
the welt (104) towards the sewing zone.
8. The machine (M) of any one of the preceding claims, comprising separating means (8),
arranged upstream of the sewing zone and conformed such as to insert between the side
of the border (102) flanked to the edge (103B) of the upper (103) and the edge (103B)
of the upper (103) itself.