FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention is directed to a skin lightening additive as well as compositions
comprising the same. More particularly, the present invention is directed to a cosmetic
composition comprising a skin lightening additive which is 12-hydroxystearic acid
and/or a salt thereof. The skin lightening additive, when used, results in a cosmetic
composition that can provide moisturizing benefits. Moreover, it has been unexpectedly
discovered that such aliphatic acid has skin lightening benefits when topically applied.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Many consumers are concerned with the characteristics of their skin. For example,
consumers are concerned with the degree of pigmentation of their skin, freckles and/or
age spots. Other consumers wish to reduce skin darkening caused by exposure to sunlight.
To meet the needs of consumers, many attempts have been made to develop products that
improve skin characteristics. The products developed thus far, however, often tend
to have low efficacy, undesirable side effects or both. Furthermore, such products
can be expensive and are often not an alternative for lower income consumers.
[0003] There is an increasing interest to develop a cosmetic composition that comprises
new skin lightening additives. This invention, therefore, is directed to cosmetic
compositions that comprise new skin lightening additives. The cosmetic compositions
of the present invention comprise, as a lightening additive, 12-hydroxystearic acid.
The cosmetic compositions of this invention result in a decrease in melanin content
which is at least about 8% lower (preferably, at least about 11% lower) when comparing
MelanoDerm™ cultures treated with the same to MelanoDerm cultures that have not been
subjected to a composition with the newly discovered skin lightening additives of
this invention.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION
[0004] Efforts have been disclosed for making skin care cosmetic compositions. In
U.S. Patent No. 6,875,425, skin lightening agents with 4-substituted resorcinol derivative compounds are described.
[0005] Other efforts have been disclosed for making skin treatment compositions. In
U.S. Patent Nos. 7,250,158 and
7,247,294, methods for treating with skin lightening agents are described.
[0006] Still other efforts have been disclosed for treating skin. In
U.S. Patent No. 5,998,423, compositions with polycyclic nitrogen heterocycles are described.
EP-A-0423929 relates to skin lightening compositions comprising lactic acid or its derivatives
as lightening agent. The compositions can further comprise unsaturated fatty acids.
[0007] None of the additional information above describes skin lightening compositions that
comprise, as a lightening additive, 12-Hydroxystearic acid.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0008] The present invention is directed to a cosmetic composition according to claim 1
for skin lightening, the cosmetic composition comprising a lightening additive which
is 12-hydroxystearic acid and/or a salt thereof.
[0009] In a further aspect, the present invention is directed to a method for lightening
skin with the cosmetic composition of this invention.
[0010] All other aspects of the present invention will more readily become apparent upon
considering the detailed description and examples which follow.
[0011] As used herein, a decrease in melanin content means a melanin content decrease when
comparing two (2), three week old MatTek MelanoDerm cultures that have not been treated
with a composition comprising the skin lightening additive of this invention to two
(2), three week old MatTek MelanoDerm cultures that have been treated with a composition
comprising the skin lightening additive of this invention wherein treated means:
- (a) placing the MelanoDerm culture within a six (6) well tissue culture dish and set
about 0.3 cm off of the tissue culture dish;
- (b) subjecting the MelanoDerm culture to 0.1 and 5 micromolar compositions having
the skin lightening additive of this invention, the composition being one prepared
from a 10 millimolar solution of skin lightening additive and carrier (e.g., dimethyl
sulfoxide) having been diluted with Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Media; and
- (c) comparing the treated and untreated cultures by obtaining average melanin content
(expressed in micrograms) by extracting melanin from MelanoDerm and obtaining absorbance
readings at 490 nm (OD490) using a commercially available spectrophotometer like a
Hach Spectrophotometer.
[0012] Cosmetic composition, as used herein, is meant to include a composition for topical
application to skin of mammals, especially humans. Such a composition may be generally
classified as leave-on or rinse off, and is meant to include conditioners or tonics,
lipsticks, color cosmetics, and general topical compositions that in some fashion
and at the very least, reduce the effect of melanin on keratinocytes. Lightening and
whitening as used herein are meant to mean the same and they include the lightening
of skin directly as well as the lightening of spots on the skin, like age spots and
freckles. Dulbecco's Modified Eagle Media means the nutrient solution sold by MatTek
Corporation and treated and used according to instructions supplied with the product
commercially identified as MEL30010BBLLMM. Skin lightening additive means a component
suitable to result in physical, but especially biological whitening (i.e., a reduction
in melanin production) whereby the skin lightening additive can comprise, consist
essentially of or consist of the skin lightening additive. MelanoDerm means the product
having normal, human-derived epidermal keratinocytes and melanocytes which have been
cultured to form a multilayered, highly differentiated model of the human epidermis,
all of which is made commercially available by MatTek Corporation. Unsaturated, as
used herein, means having at least one bond that is not sp
3 hybridized. Comprising, as used herein, is meant to include consisting essentially
of and consisting of.
[0013] The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be in the form of a liquid,
lotion, cream, serum, gel, soap bar or toner, or applied via a face mask or patch.
The composition of this invention is one that at the very least, lightens skin when
skin is meant to include skin on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, hands, legs and
scalp. All ranges identified herein are meant to implicitly include all ranges subsumed
therein, if, for example, reference to the same is not explicitly made.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0014] The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises:
- a. a skin lightening additive which is 12-hydroxystearic acid and/or a salt thereof;
- b. a cosmetic carrier; and
- c. further comprises ricinoleic acid
[0015] It is within the scope of the present invention to include any salt of the acid,
and especially, Mg, Na and/or Ca salts thereof. Such compounds are commercially available
from suppliers like Vertellus Specialties, Inc., Welch, Home & Clark Co., Inc., as
well as Croda Chemicals.
[0016] The compositions can comprise a skin lightening additive which is an aliphatic acid
selected from the group consisting of lesquerolic acid; ricinelaidic acid; ambrettolic
acid; beta-dimorphecolic acid; densipolic acid; 8-methoxy-13-hydroxy-9, 11-octadecadienoic
acid; 7-oxo-octadecanoic acid; 9-oxo-octadecanoic acid; 12-oxo-octadecanoic acid;
10-oxo-14-methyl-pentadecanoic acid; and a mixture thereof.
[0017] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention typically comprise from about
0.001 to about 15% by weight, and preferably, from about 0.1 to about 12%, and most
preferably, from about 1 to about 10% by weight skin lightening additive, based on
total weight of the cosmetic composition and including all ranges subsumed therein.
[0018] While it is within the scope of this invention for the skin lightening additive to
consist essentially of 12-hydroxystearic acid and/or a salt thereof, in an often desired
embodiment, the skin lightening additive of this invention can comprise from about
0.2 to about 95%, and preferably, from about 10 to about 85%, and most preferably,
from about 30 to about 65% by weight saturated or unsaturated aliphatic acid, or a
mixture thereof, based on total weight of skin lightening additive and including all
ranges subsumed therein.
[0019] In yet another desired embodiment, the cosmetic composition of this invention can
comprise from about 2 to about 9%, and preferably, from about 3 to 8%, and most preferably,
from about 3 to about 6% by weight saturated or unsaturated aliphatic acid, or a mixture
thereof, based on total weight of the cosmetic composition and including all ranges
subsumed therein.
[0020] When used in combination, the weight ratio of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic
acid to saturated aliphatic acid is from about 5:95 to about 95:5, and preferably,
from about 20:80 to about 80:20, and most preferably, from about 40:60 to about 60:40,
including all ratios subsumed therein.
[0021] It should be known that commercially acceptable and conventional vehicles may be
used, acting as diluents, dispersants and/or carriers for the skin lightening agents
and additives described herein and for any other optional but often preferred additives.
Therefore, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle suitable for use in this invention
may be aqueous-based, anhydrous or an emulsion whereby a water-in-oil or oil-in-water
emulsion is generally preferred. If the use of water is desired, water typically makes
up the balance of the cosmetic composition, and preferably, makes up from about 5
to about 99%, and most preferably, from about 40 to about 80% by weight of the cosmetic
composition, including all ranges subsumed therein.
[0022] In addition to water, organic solvents may be optionally included to act as carriers
or to assist carriers within the compositions of the present invention. Illustrative
and non-limiting examples of the types of organic solvents suitable for use in the
present invention include alkanols like ethyl and isopropyl alcohol, mixtures thereof
or the like.
[0023] Other optional additives suitable for use include ester oils like isopropyl myristate,
cetyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, avocado oil, almond oil, olive oil, neopentylglycol
dicaprate, mixtures thereof or the like. Typically, such ester oils assist in emulsifying
the cosmetic composition of this invention, and an effective amount is often used
to yield a stable, and most preferably, water-in-oil emulsion.
[0024] Emollients may also be used, if desired, as carriers within the cosmetic composition
of the present invention. Alcohols like 1-hexadecanol (i.e., cetyl alcohol) and phenoxyethanol
are often desired as are the emollients generally classified as silicone oils and
synthetic esters. Silicone oils suitable for use include cyclic or linear polydimethylsiloxanes
containing from 3 to 9, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. Nonvolatile silicone
oils useful as an emollient material in the inventive cosmetic composition described
herein include polyalkyl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes and polyether siloxane
copolymers. The essentially non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes useful herein include,
for example, polydimethylsiloxanes.
[0025] The ester emollients that may optionally be used are:
- (1) Alkenyl or alkyl esters of fatty acids having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples
thereof include isoarachidyl neopentanoate, isononyl isonanonoate, oleyl myristate,
oleyl stearate, and oleyl oleate.
- (2) Ether-esters such as fatty acid esters of ethoxylated fatty alcohols.
- (3) Polyhydric alcohol esters. Ethylene glycol mono and di-fatty acid esters, diethylene
glycol mono-and di-fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol (200-6000) mono- and di-fatty
acid esters, propylene glycol mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polypropylene glycol
2000 monooleate, polypropylene glycol 2000 monostearate, ethoxylated propylene glycol
monostearate, glyceryl mono- and di-fatty acid esters, polyglycerol poly-fatty esters,
ethoxylated glyceryl mono-stearate, 1,3-butylene glycol monostearate, 1,3-butylene
glycol distearate, polyoxyethylene polyol fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid esters,
and polyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid esters are satisfactory polyhydric alcohol
esters.
- (4) Wax esters such as beeswax, spermaceti, stearyl stearate and arachidyl behenate.
- (5) Sterols esters, of which cholesterol fatty acid esters are examples.
[0026] Emollients when used, typically make up from about 0.1 to about 50% by weight of
the cosmetic composition, including all ranges subsumed therein.
[0027] Fatty acids having from 10 to 30 carbon atoms may also be included as cosmetically
acceptable carriers within the composition of the present invention. Illustrative
examples of such fatty acids include pelargonic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic,
isostearic, oleic, linoleic, arachidic, behenic or erucic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Compounds that are believed to enhance skin penetration, like dimethyl sulfoxide,
may also be used as an optional carrier.
[0028] Humectants of the polyhydric alcohol type may also be employed in the cosmetic compositions
of this invention. The humectant often aids in increasing the effectiveness of the
emollient, reduces scaling, stimulates removal of built-up scale and improves skin
feel. Typical polyhydric alcohols include glycerol, polyalkylene glycols and more
preferably alkylene polyols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene
glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and derivatives thereof, sorbitol,
hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethoxylated
glycerol, propoxylated glycerol and mixtures thereof. For best results the humectant
is preferably propylene glycol or sodium hyaluronate. The amount of humectant may
range anywhere from 0.2 to 25%, and preferably, from about 0.5 to about 15% by weight
of the cosmetic composition, based on total weight of the cosmetic composition and
including all ranges subsumed therein.
[0029] Thickeners may also be utilized as part of the cosmetically acceptable carrier in
the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. Typical thickeners include cross-linked
acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 982), hydrophobically-modified acrylates (e.g. Carbopol 1382),
cellulosic derivatives and natural gums. Among useful cellulosic derivatives are sodium
carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl
cellulose, ethyl cellulose and hydroxymethyl cellulose. Natural gums suitable for
the present invention include guar, xanthan, sclerotium, carrageenan, pectin and combinations
of these gums. Amounts of the thickener may range from 0.0 to 5%, usually from 0.001
to 1%, optimally from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight.
[0030] Collectively, the water, solvents, silicones, esters, fatty acids, humectants and/or
thickeners will constitute the cosmetically acceptable carrier in amounts from 1 to
99.9%, preferably from 80 to 99% by weight.
[0031] Surfactants may also be present in cosmetic compositions of the present invention.
Total concentration of the surfactant will range from about 0 to about 40%, and preferably,
from about 0 to about 20%, optimally from about 0 to about 5% by weight of the composition.
The surfactant may be selected from the group consisting of anionic, nonionic, cationic
and amphoteric actives. Particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are those with
a C
10-C
20 fatty alcohol or acid hydrophobe condensed with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide
or propylene oxide per mole of hydrophobe; C
2-C
10 alkyl phenols condensed with from 2 to 20 moles of alkylene oxide; mono- and di-
fatty acid esters of ethylene glycol; fatty acid monoglyceride; sorbitan, mono- and
di- C
8-C
20 fatty acids; block copolymers (ethylene oxide/propylene oxide); and polyoxyethylene
sorbitan as well as combinations thereof. Alkyl polyglycosides and saccharide fatty
amides (e.g. methyl gluconamides) are also suitable nonionic surfactants.
[0032] Preferred anionic surfactants include soap, alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates, alkyl
sulfates and sulfonates, alkylbenzene sulfonates, alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates,
C
8-C
20 acyl isothionates, acyl glutamates, C
8-C
20 alkyl ether phosphates and combinations thereof.
[0034] Illustrative yet non-limiting examples of the types of fragrances that may be used
in this invention include myrcene, dihydromyrenol, citral, tagetone, cis-geranic acid,
citronellic acid, or cis-geranic acid nitrile, mixtures thereof or the like.
[0035] Preferably, the amount of fragrance employed in the cosmetic composition of this
invention is in the range from about 0.0% to about 10%, more preferably, about 0.00001%
to about 5 wt %, most preferably, about 0.0001% to about 2%.
[0036] Various types of optional additional active ingredients may be used in the cosmetic
compositions of the present invention. Actives are defined as skin benefit agents
other than emollients and other than ingredients that merely improve the physical
characteristics of the composition. Although not limited to this category, general
examples include talcs and silicas, as well as alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids,
peroxides, zinc salts, and sunscreens.
[0037] Beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid, for example. Zinc pyrithione is an example
of the zinc salts useful in the cosmetic composition of the present invention.
[0038] Sunscreens include those materials commonly employed to block ultraviolet light.
Illustrative compounds are the derivatives of PABA, cinnamate and salicylate. For
example, avobenzophenone (Parsol 1789®) octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxyl
benzophenone (also known as oxybenzone) can be used. Octyl methoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy
benzophenone are commercially available under the trademarks, Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-e,
respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen employed in the compositions can vary
depending upon the degree of protection desired from the sun's UV radiation. Additives
that reflect or scatter the suns rays may also be employed. These additives include
oxides like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
[0039] Many cosmetic compositions, especially those containing water, should be protected
against the growth of potentially harmful microorganisms. Anti-microbial compounds,
such as triclosan, and preservatives are, therefore, typically necessary. Suitable
preservatives include alkyl esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, hydantoin derivatives,
propionate salts, and a variety of quaternary ammonium compounds. Particularly preferred
preservatives of this invention are methyl paraben, propyl paraben, phenoxyethanol
and benzyl alcohol. Preservatives will usually be employed in amounts ranging from
about 0.1% to 2% by weight of the composition.
[0040] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may further comprise other ingredients
that may be used with the cosmetic composition of this invention selected from dioic
acids (e.g., malonic acid, sebacic acid), antioxidants like vitamin E, vitamins, like
niacinamide and vitamin C and its derivatives, recorcinols and its derivatives (including
those esterified with, for example, ferulic acid, vanillic acid or the like) and retinoids,
including retinoic acid, retinal, retinol and retinyl esters, conjugated linoleic
acid, petroselinic acid and mixtures thereof. Still other optional ingredients that
may be used include any other conventional ingredients well known for wrinkle-reducing,
skin whitening, anti-acne effects and reducing the impact of sebum.
[0041] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention are intended for use primarily
as a product for topical application to human skin, especially and at least as a product
for lightening the skin. Thus, the inventor has discovered that the described aliphatic
acids have excellent skin lightening capabilities whereby the same may be employed
as skin lightening additives in topical cosmetic compositions that are applied topically
to areas of the skin where lightening or whitening is desired. Other benefits may
include skin moisturizing, decreasing the effect of sebum on the skin and skin wrinkle
reducing. Often, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a melting point
from about 30°C to about 45°C, including all ranges subsumed therein. In an especially
preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition of the present invention has a pH from
about 4.5 to about 7.5, including all ranges subsumed therein.
[0042] When making the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the desired ingredients
are mixed in no particular order and usually at temperatures from about 70 to about
80°C and under atmospheric pressure.
[0043] The packaging for the composition of this invention can be a patch, bottle, tube,
roll-ball applicator, propellant driven aerosol device, squeeze container or lidded
jar.
[0044] The examples which follow are provided to illustrate and facilitate an understanding
of the invention. The examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.
Examples
[0045] Commercially available human skin equivalents (MelanoDerm™ from MatTek) were obtained
for testing the impact of heterosubstituted, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic acid
on melanogenesis. Solutions having a final concentration of 0.1 to 5 micromolar were
prepared from a 10 millimolar dimethyl sulfoxide stock solution and dosed ten (10)
times in a three (3) week period into the media of the MelanoDerm cultures. The media
consisted of commercially available basal Dulbecco's Modified Eagles media, prepared
and treated in the manner set forth in the manufacturer's instructions. For long term
maintenance of the MelanoDerms, the basal media was supplemented with bFGF and alpha
MSH to stimulate melanocyte growth and melanogenesis. Each treatment condition was
done in duplicate and three (3) sets were made for each treatment, as well as for
a control (culture not treated with the aliphatic acid). The cultures were maintained
at a temperature of about 37°C and incubated in a humidified, 5% CO
2 incubator during the dosing period, but removed while being dosed.
[0046] After a three (3) week period, the MelanoDerm cultures were removed and solubilized
in a centrifuge tube containing 250 microliters of Solvable reagent (GNE9100, Packard)
for sixteen (16) hours (overnight) in a 60°C oven. Following solubilization, the centrifuge
tube containing the sample was spun at 12,000 g for five (5) minutes. Two hundred
(200) microliters of supernatant were removed and placed in a ninety-six (96) well
plate. A spectrophotometer was used to measure the absorbance of the supernatant at
490 nm. A standard curve using synthetic melanin was set up in parallel to allow quantitation
of melanin, in micrograms, of the samples. The results are provided below:
Tables
Active |
MC* Value Range |
Average MC |
ΔMC |
Control |
76.0 - 78.4 |
77.2 |
--- |
Aliphatic acidi |
67.9 - 69.2 |
68.6 |
8.6 |
|
|
|
|
Active |
MC Value Range |
Average MC |
ΔMC |
Control |
76.0 - 78.4 |
77.2 |
--- |
Aliphatic acidii |
69.9 - 67.6 |
68.8 |
8.4 |
i = ricinoleic acid (0.1uM)
ii = 12-hydroxystearic acid (5uM)
* MC = melanin content |
[0047] The results, as they relate to MelanoDerm cultures, show that cosmetic compositions
with the aliphatic acids of this invention unexpectedly result in skin lightening.
1. A cosmetic composition comprising:
a. a skin lightening additive which is 12-hydroxystearic acid and/or a salt thereof;
b. a cosmetic carrier; and
further comprising ricinoleic acid.
2. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 wherein the composition further comprises
other ingredients that may be used with the cosmetic composition selected from dioic
acids, antioxidants, vitamins, resorcinols and retinoids, conjugated linoleic acid,
petroselinic acid and mixtures thereof.
3. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the composition comprises
conjugated linoleic acid, petroselinic acid or both.
4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition
comprises antioxidant.
5. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition
further comprises a vitamin.
6. A composition according to claim 5, wherein the vitamin is niacinamide.
7. A cosmetic composition according to anyone of the preceding claims additionally comprising
a skin lightening additive which is an aliphatic acid selected from the group consisting
of lesquerolic acid; ricinelaidic acid; ambrettolic acid; beta-dimorphecolic acid;
densipolic acid; 8-methoxy-13-hydroxy-9, 11-octadecadienoic acid; 7-oxo-octadecanoic
acid; 9-oxo-octadecanoic acid; 12-oxo-octadecanoic acid; 10-oxo-14-methyl-pentadecanoic
acid; and a mixture thereof.
8. A cosmetic composition according to claim 7 wherein the aliphatic acid is 12-oxo-octadecanoic
acid.
9. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the 12-hydroxystearic
acid and/or a salt thereof and the aliphatic acid comprises 2-9, preferably 3-8, most
preferably 3-6% by weight of the composition.
10. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition
additionally comprises a skin lightening additive which is an ester of 12-hydroxystearic
acid.
11. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the cosmetic
composition further comprises an alpha-hydroxy, beta-hydroxy acid, sunscreen or a
mixture thereof.
12. A method for lightening skin color comprising the step of contacting skin with a composition
according to any one of the preceding claims.
1. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung, umfassend:
a. ein Additiv zur Hautaufhellung, welches eine 12-Hydroxystearinsäure und/oder ein
Salz davon ist;
b. einen kosmetischen Träger; und
ferner umfassend Ricinolsäure.
2. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1, wobei die Zusammensetzung ferner andere
Bestandteile umfasst, die mit der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung verwendet werden können,
die unter Dicarbonsäuren, Antioxidantien, Vitaminen, Resorcinen und Retinoiden, konjugierter
Linolsäure, Petroselinsäure und Mischungen davon ausgewählt sind.
3. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, wobei die Zusammensetzung konjugierte
Linolsäure, Petroselinsäure oder beides umfasst.
4. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei die
Zusammensetzung ein Antioxidans umfasst.
5. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei die
Zusammensetzung ferner ein Vitamin umfasst.
6. Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 5, wobei das Vitamin Niacinamid ist.
7. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, zusätzlich
umfassend ein Additiv zum Hautaufhellen, welches eine aliphatische Säure ist, die
aus der Gruppe, bestehend aus Lesquerolsäure; Ricinelaidinsäure; Ambrettolsäure; Beta-Dimorphecolsäure;
Densipolsäure; 8-Methoxy-13-hydroxy-9-, 11-octadecandiensäure; 7-Oxo-octadecansäure;
9-Oxo-octadecansäure; 12-Oxo-octadecansäure; 10-Oxo-14-methyl-pentadecansäure und
eine Mischung davon, ausgewählt ist.
8. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach Anspruch 7, wobei die aliphatische Säure 12-Oxo-octadecansäure
ist.
9. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei die
12-Hydroxystearinsäure und/oder ein Salz davon und die aliphatische Säure 2-9, vorzugsweise
3-8, höchst bevorzugt 3-6 Gewichts-% der Zusammensetzung umfassen.
10. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei die
Zusammensetzung zusätzlich ein Additiv zur Hautaufhellung umfasst, welches ein Ester
von 12-Hydroxystearinsäure ist.
11. Kosmetische Zusammensetzung nach irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, wobei die
kosmetische Zusammensetzung ferner eine Alpha-Hydroxy-, Beta-Hydroxysäure, Sonnenschutzmittel
oder eine Mischung davon umfasst.
12. Verfahren zum Aufhellen der Hautfarbe, umfassend den Schritt des Inkontaktbringens
der Haut mit einer Zusammensetzung nach irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche.
1. Composition cosmétique comprenant :
a. un additif éclaircissant la peau qui est l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique et/ou un sel
de celui-ci
b. un véhicule cosmétique ; et
comprenant en outre de l'acide ricinoléique.
2. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1, laquelle composition comprend en
outre d'autres ingrédients qui peuvent être utilisés avec la composition cosmétique,
choisis parmi les acides dioïques, les antioxydants, les vitamines, les résorcinols
et les rétinoïdes, un acide linoléique conjugué, l'acide pétrosélinique, et leurs
mélanges.
3. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 1 ou 2, laquelle composition comprend
un acide linoléique conjugué, de l'acide pétrosélinique, ou les deux.
4. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, laquelle
composition comprend un antioxydant.
5. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, laquelle
composition comprend en outre une vitamine.
6. Composition selon la revendication 5, dans laquelle la vitamine est le niacinamide.
7. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, comprenant
de plus un additif éclaircissant la peau qui est un acide aliphatique choisi dans
le groupe constitué par l'acide lesquérolique ; l'acide ricinélaïdique ; l'acide ambrettolique
; l'acide bêta-dimorphécolique ; l'acide densipolique ; l'acide 8-méthoxy-13-hydroxy-9,11-octadécadiénoïque
; l'acide 7-oxo-octadécanoïque ; l'acide 9-oxo-octadécanoïque ; l'acide 12-oxo-octadécanoïque
; l'acide 10-oxo-14-méthyl-pentadécanoïque ; et leurs mélanges.
8. Composition cosmétique selon la revendication 7, dans laquelle l'acide aliphatique
est l'acide 12-oxo-octadécanoïque.
9. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, dans
laquelle l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique et/ou un sel de celui-ci et l'acide aliphatique
représentent 2 à 9, de préférence 3 à 8, tout spécialement 3 à 6 % en poids de la
composition.
10. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, laquelle
composition comprend de plus un additif éclaircissant la peau qui est un ester d'acide
12-hydroxystéarique.
11. Composition cosmétique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, laquelle
composition comprend en outre un alpha-hydroxyacide, un bêta-hydroxyacide, un écran
solaire ou un mélange de ceux-ci.
12. Procédé pour éclaircir la couleur de la peau, comprenant l'étape de mise en contact
de la peau avec une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes.