[0001] This invention is concerned with the production of knitted garments and is particularly,
but not exclusively, concerned with the production of vests briefs, T-shirts, shorts,
jumpers, pyjamas and sleeping suits.
[0002] British Patent No. 1279552 discloses a method of producing a T-shirt or the like
wherein a seamless tubular blank is first produced. The blank is flattened and an
end thereof is shaped by cutting to form two identical superimposed portions. After
cutting, the blank is centre-crease turned, i.e. refolded so that longitudinal centre
lines of the superimposed portions become edges of the blank, and parts of the shaped
end which were previously on the same one of the superimposed portions are joined
together. Although avoiding side seams, garments produced in this manner must still
be hemmed at the waist, and the addition of trimmings for the neck and/or the sleeves
involves further seaming. These factors combine to complicate the overall make-up
of the garment and reduce wearer comfort.
[0003] British Patent No. 978810 discloses a method of producing knitted briefs or the like
which also involves shaping and centre-crease turning of the blank. In this method,
the blanks are produced integrally in succession by circular knitting, and are cut
to length prior to shaping and turning. Each blank includes an integrally knitted
elasticated portion which is destined to form an elasticated waistband in the finished
garment, but this portion is twice the walewise dimension of the desired waistband
and must be turned and seamed, once again, this increases the make-up of the garment
and reduces the wearer comfort.
[0004] It is an object of the present invention to provide a method of producing knitted
garments which involves a minimum number of finishing operations, so that the overall
make-up of the garment can be simplified and wearer comfort can be improved due to
the general lack of seams and hems.
[0005] According to the present invention, such a method comprises knitting on a cylindrical
knitting machine a succession of integrally joined tubular blanks each having at one
end thereof an integrally knitted welt or selvedge which is separated from the next
succeeding blank by a draw thread, separating adjacent blanks by means of said draw
thread, flattening each tubular blank and shaping an end thereof remote from the welt
or selvedge at least partially while the blank is thus flattened to form two identical
and superimposed portions, refolding the blank so that longitudinal centre lines of
said superimposed portions become edges of the blank, and joining together parts of
said remote end of the blank which were previously on the same one of said superimposed
portions.
[0006] Because each blank is knitted with a finished welt or selvedge, no seaming or hemming
is necessary after the blanks have been separated. Moreover, because draw threads
are employed for such separation, a separate cutting operation such as that employed
in British Patent No. 978810 is unnecessary. In addition, if the draw threads are
water-or steam-soluble, the blanks can be separated at the same time as they are subjected
to steam treatment to'press and relax the: thereby further reducing the number of
finishing operations required. Conventional draw threads may be used, but the use
of water- or steam-soluble ones is preferred because this avoids the need for a thread-clipping
operation.
[0007] Desirably, the welt or selvedge of each blank is separated from the next succeeding
blank by more than one draw thread. For example, a draw thread construction can be
employed comprising a first draw thread, at least one course of waste yarn and a second
draw thread. Where the draw threads method disclosed in British Patent No. 978,810,
wherein the tubular blanks are knitted in the same construction throughout, and the
elasticated portions are produced by knitting-in courses of elastic or elastomeric
yarn at regularly spaced intervals as determined by the feeder sequence, the yarn
being knitted-in only at regularly spaced wales, such as rib wales.
4
[0008] Conveniently, shaping of said remote end of each blank is performed at least partly
(and preferably wholly) by cutting. Where the garment is a pair of briefs for example,
such that said parts of the remote end of the blank are jointed together by a gusset,
the gusset can be cut out from the blank at the same time as said end is cut to shape.
[0009] Where the garment is a T-shirt or the like, sleeve inserts can be joined to each
blank with are produced on a cylindrical knitting machine as a succession of integrally
joined sleeve blanks each having at one end thereof an integrally knitted welt or
selvedge which is separated- from the next succeeding sleeve blank by a draw thread.
In this way, the sleeve inserts are produced with finished welts or selvedges in the
same manner as the body blank, once again decreasing the number of finishing operations
required and improving the wearer comfort.
[0010] The present invention will now be further described, by way of example, with reference
to the accompanying drawings, in which:-
Figure 1 is a perspective view of a knitted tube produced as a first step in a method
according to the present invention; are steam-soluble, such a construction not only
enables complete separation of the blanks without thread clipping but also reduces
the amount of residual draw thread material which is deposited on the blanks during
steam-dissolving due to the interposition of the waste yarn courses between the draw
threads.
[0011] Although the welt or selvedge of each blank may be non-elastic, it preferably forms
part of an integrally knitted elasticated portion adjacent said one end of the blank,
the walewise.dimension of the elasticated portion being equal to that of a desired
elasticated band in the finished garment so that the elasticated portion is economical
both of material and knitting time. The elasticated portion may derive its elasticity
from its specific construction (e.g. 2 x 1 rib), or alternatively may be produced
by laying- in or knitting-in an elastic or elastomeric yarn. For certain applications,
the whole of the blank may be knitted from elastic or elastomeric yarn. Where the
elastic or elastomeric yarn is knitted-in, the elasticated portion is preferably knitted
to a different construction from that of the remainder of the blank. Advantageously,
the elastic or elastomeric yarn and a non-elastic yarn are selectively striped in
at one or more feeders of the cylindrical knitting machine, so that courses of the
elastic or elastomeric yarn can be knitted-in at intervals which are not necessarily
dependent upon the feeder sequence of the machine. In adition, the elastic or elastomeric
yarn is desirably knitted-in at different wales in successive courses. This is to
be constrasted with the
Figure 2 illustrates a steam-treatment operation to which the knitted tube is subjected;
Figures 3 to 5 illustrate further steps in the production of a T-shirt or the like
according to the present invention;
Figures 6 to 8 illustrate further steps in the production of a pair of briefs or the
like according to the present invention;
Figure 9 is a loop structure diagram of part of the knitted tube shown in Figure 1;
and
Figure 10 is a loop structure diagram showing a modification of said part.
[0012] Referring first to Figure 1, as a first step in the manufacture of a knitted garment
according to the invention, a seamless knitted tube 10 is produced by circular knitting
on a cylindrical knitting machine (not shown) such as a single-cylinder, double-cylinder
or cylinder and dial machine. The tube 10 comprises a succession of integrally joined
tubular blanks 11 each having at one end thereof a welt or selvedge 12 forming part
of an elasticated portion 13, the welt or selvedge 12 being separate from the next
succeeding blank by a steam-soluble draw thread 14.
[0013] Freferred constructions of the blanks 11, welts or selvedges 12 and elasticated portions
13 will be described later.
[0014] From the knitting machine, the seamless knitted tube 1C is fed by way of variable
speed rollers 15 to steam-treatment apparatus shown in Figure 2, where a variable
speed endless belt conveyor 16 transports the tube successively to first, second and
third steaming zones 17, 18 and 19 respectively. At the first and second zones, the
tube 10 is steamed under a respective canopy 2C and is vibrated by a respective vibrator
21 in order to flatten the tube. and pre-shrink or relax the knitted fabric. At the
third zone, steam is applied to the tube 10 locally in the vicinity of the draw threads
14 in order dissolve the latter, enabling successive blanks 11 to be separated from
one another. The thus separated blanks are then transported by the conveyor 16 to
a drying zone 22. Reference numeral 23 denotes variable speed rollers which assist
in transporting the tube from the second zone 18 to the third zone 19 and which flatten
the tube, and reference numeral 24 designates an extractor hood at the third zone.
[0015] The flattened and separated blanks are then transferred to a cutting machine (not
shown) which shapes an end of each blank remote from the respective elasticated portion
13 and the welt or selvedge 12. hare particularly, the cutting machine performs a
single cutting operation on the two thicknesses of the flattened tube so as to produce
two identical and superimposed portions which are integrally joined together along
opposite edges thereof. In the porudction of a vest, T-shirt or the like, the end
of the blank is shaped as shown in Figure 3, namely so that each of the superimposed
portions has a curved edge part 25 destined to form one half of the front of a neck
opening in the finished garment, a curved edge part 26 destined to form a respective
arm hole, a curved edge part 2? destined to form one half of the back of the neck
opening, and two substantially straight edge parts 28 and 29 disposed between the
curved edge parts 25, 26 and between the curved edge parts 26,27 respectively. The
area of the blank which is removed by the cutting operation is indicated by hatching
in Figure 3.
[0016] After cutting, the blank is centre-crease turned, i.e. it is refolded so that longitudinal
centre lines 3C of the superimposed portions of the flattened blank become edges of
the refolded blank, as shown in Figure 4, The straight edge parts 28 and 29 which
were previously on the same one of the superimposed portions are then joined together
by sewing or, where the tube fabric is made of thermoplastics yarn, by producing a
welded seam. The vest, T-shirt or the like is finished off by adding sleeve insertions
31 and a neck band 32 as shown in Figure 5. The sleeve insertions, like the body part
of the vest, are produced by a circular knitting or a cylindrical knitting machine
as a succession of integrally joined tubular blanks, each blank having at one end.
thereof a welt or selvedge
33 forming part of an elasticated portion 34, the welt or selvedge being separated from
the next succeeding blank by a draw thread : in this respect, the sleeve insertion
blanks before separation from one another form a seamless knitted tube similar to
that shown in Figure 1. The draw threads are preferably steam-soluble so that the
sleeve insertion blanks can be separated from one another in the same operation as
they are pre-shrunk or relaxed, in the same manner as described above in relation
to the body blanks 11.
[0017] In an alternative arrangement (not shown), the sleeve-- insertions 31 are omitted.
In addition, instead of being provided with a neck band, the neck opening can have
a neck insertion joined thereto. The neck opening can be made in any..desired shape,
such as V-shaped, round, slash or crew.
[0018] In the production of a pair of briefs or the like according to the invention, the
aforementioned cutting machine shapes the end of each blank as shown in Figure 6,
so that each of the identical superimposed portions thereof has two substantially
straight edge parts 35 and 36 with a curved edge part 37 therebetween. The edge part-35
is destined to form one half of a lower edge of a rear part of the finished briefs,
while the edge part 36 is destined to form one half of a lower edge of a front part
of the briefs and is therefore located higher on the blank than the edge part 35.
The edge part 37 is destined to form a respective leg opening in the finished briefs.
At the same as shaping the end of the blank, the cutting machine also cuts out a gusset
38 of double thickness. As in Figure 3, the area of the blank which is removed by
the cutting operation is indicated by hatching.
[0019] After cutting, the blank is centre-crease turned so that the longitudinal centre
lines 39 of the superimposed portions of the flattened blank become edges of the refolded
blank, as shown in Figure 7. The edges 35 and 36 are then joined by means of the double-thickness
gusset 38, which thus forms a crotch portion of the briefs. The joining can be performed
by sewing, or by producing a welded seam where the knitted fabric is made of thermoplastics,
yarn. The briefs are finished off by adding leg bands 40 as shown in Figure 8, or
alternatively can be finished off by adding strips of knitted fabric, elastic lace,
etc. to the leg opening.
[0020] In an alternative embodiment, the blank is suitably shaped(for example as indicated
by broken line in ligure 6) so that the briefs can be produced by joining together
the edge parts 35 and 36 directly, thereby omitting the gusset 38. In this case, the
edge parts 36 on the front of the briefs will be disposed lower on the blank than
the edge parts 35 on the rear thereof.
[0021] In the embodiments described above, the elasticated portion 13 of each blank 11 forms
an elasticated waistband in the finished garment. Because the portion 13 as knitted
is of the same walewise dimension as the desired waistband, it is economical in terms
of both knitting time and materials. Moreover, the portion 13 as knitted incorporates
a finished welt or selvedge 12, so that no separate finishing operation such as hemming
is required: this is of course also true of the elasticated portions 33 of the sleeve
inserts 31 in the vest or T-shirt shown in Figure 5. This, plus the absence of any
side seams, reduces the overall make-up of the garment and improves wearer comfort.
Hore particularly, the only finishing operations required for the vest or T-shirt
of ligure 5 are the joining of the edge parts 28 and 29, the joining of the sleeve
insertions 31 to the body blank, and the addition of the neck band 32 or the like.
In the case of the briefs illustrated in Figure 8, the only finishing operations necessary
are the joining of the gusset 38 to the edge parts 35, 36 and the addition of the
leg bands 40. The use of pre-dyed yarn is preferred since this avoids the need for
dyeing and/or wet processing of the knitted tube before cutting or of the garment
after assembly. The make-up of the garment is further reduced by the use of steam-soluble
draw threads which enable the tubular blanks to be flattened, pre-shrunk and separated
all in a single operation, as indicated in Figure 2. More- .over, the centre-crease
turning and shaping of the separated blanks can also be performed in a single operation.
[0022] The portion 13 of each blank can obtain its elasticity from elastic or elastomeric
yarn which is either merely laid-in or incorporated within the knitting construction
(i.e. knitted-in). Indeed, the whole of the blank may be knitted from elastic or elastomeric
yarn, either alone or in combination with a ground yarn. In all cases, extra elasticity
can be imparted to the portion 13 by varying its construction from that used for the
remainder of the blank, e.g. 2 x 1 rib as compared with 1 x 1 rib for the rest of
the blank. Alternatively, the portion 13 can drive its elasticity solely from its
construction, with no elastic or elastomeric yarns being included. The portion 13
may include colours, jacquard designs, motifs etc., and can be patterned similarly
to or independently of the remainder of the blank. such patterning is achieved using
pre-dyed yarns, by tucking, loop transfer of changing yarns, for example.
[0023] One example of a construction which can be employed for the elasticated portion 13
and the welt or selvedge 12 is shown in Figure 9, which also illustrates a preferred
draw thread construction. In this example, the main part of the blank is knitted in
1 x 1 rib, a final course of the proceding blank being indicated by reference numeral
41. The draw thread construction is obtained by continuing the 1 x 1 rib knitting
through a course 42 of steam-soluble yarn, an intermediate course 43 of waste yarn
such as nylon or cotton, and a further course 44 of steam-soluble yarn. The interposition
of the course 43 of waste yarn between the courses 42 and 44 of steam-soluble yarn
has the effect of reducing during the above-described steam treatment the amount of
the steam-soluble yarn which is deposited on the edges of the successive blanks which
they separate. At the. same time, the use of steam-soluble draw threads allows complete
separation of adjacent blanks without the need to clip the threads which join the
latter.
[0024] The elasticated portion 13 is composed of a repeated sequence of four courses 45
to 48, only one such sequence being illustrated. The course 45 is composed of non-elastic
yarn such as cotton or nylon, whereas the courses 46 to 48 are composed of elastomeric
yarn, typically nylon-covered LYCRA. The construction of the portion 13 repeats itself
every eight wales in the coursewise direction. The course 45 is knitted with the course
46 in wales W1, W9..... and in the intervening wales is knitted alternatively with
the course 47 and the course 45 of the next sequence. Course 46 is knitted with the
course 48 in wales W1, W9 ..... and is floated across the intervening wales. Course
47 is knitted with the course 45 of the next sequence in even-numbered wales and is
floated across odd-numbered wales. Course 48 is knitted with the course 45 of the
next sequence in wales W1, W9....... and is floated across all of the intervening
wales.
[0025] Typically, the sequence formed by courses 45 to 48 will be repeated six times to
produce a plain waistband for ladies or girls briefs. Alternatively, it may be repeated,
say three times on each side of a narrow decorative band incorporating a jacquard
design in coloured yarns, a transfer stitch pattern for a tuck-stitch pattern, for
example.
[0026] A further example of a construction which can be employed for the elasticated portion
13 is illustrated in Figure 10. As with the example shown in Figure 9, the main part
of the blank is knitted in 1 x 1 rib (reference numeral 5C denoting a final course
of the preding blank), and the draw thread construction is formed by continuing the
1 x 1 rib knitting for a course 51 of steam-soluble yarn, an intermediate course 52
of waste yarn such as cotton or nylon, and a further course 53 of steam-soluble yarn.
Once again, the elasticated portion 13 is composed of a repeated sequence of four
courses 54 to 57 with the pattern repeating itself every eight wales in the coursewise
direction: in Figure 10, however, the courses 54 and 56 are composed of a non-elastic
yarn'(such as cotton or nylon) and the courses 55 and 57 are composed of an elastomeric
yarn (such as nylon-covered LYCRA).
[0027] The course 54 is knitted with course 55 in wales W2, W4, W8..... with course 56 in
wales W1, W5, W6, W9..... and with course 57 in wales W3, W7..... Course 55 is knitted
with course 56 in wales W12, W4,W8..... and is floated across all other wales. Course
56 is knitted with the course 54 of the next sequence in all but wales W3, W7.....
where it is floated. Course 57 is knitted with the course 54 of the next sequence
in wales W3, W7..... and is floated across all other wales.
[0028] Typically, the sequence of courses 54 to 57 will be repeated 12 times to form the
waistband of boys or mens briefs. Alternatively, however, three or more sequences
may be knitted on either side of a knitted decorative band incorporating a jacquard
design, stitch effect or coloured stripe, for example. The course 54 and 56 can be
knitted in yarns of difference colours to produce a decorative effect.
[0029] For the sake of clarity, the courses of elastomeric yarn are indicated in both Figure
9 and Figure 10 by strippling. Where the knitting constructions shown in these figures
are produced on a cylinder and dial knitting machine, odd-numbered wales are knitted
by the.cylinder needles while even-numbered wales are knitted by the dial needles.
The various yarns employed i.e. coloured yarns, elastic or elastomeric yarns and steam-soluble
yarns can be striped in an out selectively at the feeders of the knitting machine
so that their walewise sequence is not necessarily determined by the disposition of
the feeders around the machine. Horeover, as is apparent from Figures 9 and 10, the
elastic or elastomeric yarns are knitted-in at different wales in successive courses.
[0030] Although the invention has been described above in relation to the production of
vests, T-shirts and briefs,. it will be manifest that the method can be used to manufacture
many other types of knitted garments, such as jumpers, shorts, pyjamas and sleeping
suits. The diameter of the cylindrical knitting machine is arranged to be substantially
equal to that of the wearer of the garment, and therefore it is necessary to provide
knitting machines of different-diameters for different sizes of garment, for example
narrow diameter garments for children and wider diameter garments for adults.
1. A method of producing a knitted garment, comprising knitting on a cylindrical knitting
machine a succession of integrally joined tubular blanks, separating adjacent blanks
from one another, flattening each tubular blank and shaping an end thereof remote
from the welt or selvedge at least partially while the blank is thus flattened to
form two identical and superimposed portions, refolding the blank so that longitudinal
centre lines of said superimposed portions become edges of the blank, and joining
together parts of said remote end of the blank which were previously on the same one
of said superimposed portions, characterised in that each tubular blank (11) lies
at one end thereof an integrally knitted welt or selvedge (12) which is separated
from the next succeeding blank by a draw thread (14).
2. A method as claimed in claim 1, characterised in that each welt or selvedge (12)
forms part of an integrally knitted elasticed portion (13) adjacent said one end of
the respective blank (11) the walewise dimension of the elasticated portion (13) being
equal to that of a desired elasticated band in the finished garment.
3. A method as claimed in claim 2, characterised in that each elasticated' portion
(13) is knitted to a different construction from the remainder of the respective blank
(11).
4. A method as claimed in claim 2 or 3, characterised in that the elasticated portion
(13) of each blank (11) is produced by striping in an elastic or elastomeric yarn
and a non-elastic yarn selectively at one or more feeders of the cylindrical knitting
machine.
5. A method as claimed in claim 2, 3 or 4, characterised in that the elasticated portion
(13) of each blank (11) is produced by knitting-in an elastic or elastomeric yarn
at different wales in successive courses.
6. A method as claimed in any prceding claim characterised in that the welt or selvedge
(12) of each blank (11) is separated from the next succeeding blank by more than one
draw thread (14).
7. A method as claimed in claim 6, characterised in that the welt or selvedge (12)
of each blank (11) is separated from the next succeeding blank by a draw thread construction
comprising a first draw thread (42,51) at least one course of waste yarn (43,52) and
a second draw thread (44,53).
8. A method as claimed in any preceding claim, characterised in that the blanks (11)
prior to separation are subjected to a steam treatment, and the draw threads (14)
are water-or steam-soluble so that the blanks can be separated during said steam-treatment.
9. A method as claimed in any preceding claim, characterised in that said remote end
of each blank (11) is shaped at least partly by a cutting operation, and said parts
(35,36) of the remote end are joined together through the intermediary of a gusset
(38) which is cut out from the blank during said cutting operation.
10. A method as claimed in any preceding claim, characterised in that there are joined
to each blank sleeve inserts (31) which are produced on a cylindrical knitting machine
as a succession of integrally joined sleeve blanks each having at one end thereof
an integrall knitted welt or selvedge (33) which is separated from the next succeeding
sleeve blank by a draw thread.