[0001] The present invention refers to a method to automatically guiding garments from a
putting-up-table to a sewing machine for sewing of zippers, and also an automatic
sewing machine for accomplishing the method and which includes a device for feeding
of the garments and for sewing of a zipper fastener to these by means of a sewing
machine.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Sewing of zippers is a relatively difficult operation and requires a long time of
training. Of this reason different types of automatic sewing machines have been developed,
which may be operated by unqualified labour force after a short time of training.
The operator, however, has to manually guide the material during the sewing operation,
whereby the working pace is low and the production small.
[0003] At known automatic sewing machines for sewing of zippers, the zippers are always
located lowest, i.e. nearest the bottom plate, while the garment which should be provided
with the zipper is located above it. The reason to this location is that this is the
most simple to transport and guide the zipper-band. A drawback with this type of device
is that the zipper-band and the garment being different stretched, why an even seam
is very hard to achieve, especially if the garment is of elastic material. It has
also been tried to arrange brake-devices, which should obstruct extensions in the
material, but only with a little success.
THE OBJECT OF THE INVENTION AND ITS MOST IMPORTANT CHARACTERISTICS
[0004] The object of the invention is to provide a method of automatically guiding the garment
and the zipper to the sewing machine, in such a way that the manual guidance and thereby
also the extensions in the material are eliminated. A further object of the invention
is to considerably increase the production capacity, and also make it possible to
sew zippers in lined garments. This has been solved by that the edge parts of the
garment along which a zipper is intended to be sewed, is located essentially horizontally,
edge to edge and above each other, that a gripping device grips the garment along
said edge part, a distance inside and essentially parallel to the edges and turn the
garment to a vertical hanging position, that the side parts of the garment located
beneath and above the gripping device are separated from each other by means of a
separating device to a position essentially parallel to the gripping bars of the gripping
device, that the edge parts of the garment are pressed of the gripping device and/or
separate pressing bars against a transport device which guide the garment against
a sewing machine, and that a zipper is provided from above to fit up against the edge
parts of the garment, which with the zipper is provided to the press foot of the sewing
machine for sewing.
[0005] To accomplish the method described above is also proposed an automatic sewing machine
which solves the problems mentioned above by means of, that a gripping device is arranged
and formed to grip, by means of gripping bars outside a putting up table extending,
horizontally on each other located edge parts of garments, along which edge parts
a zipper is intended to be sewed, that the gripping device is turnable from one to
its gripping bars vertical to a horizontal position, in which the press pinch betwen
the gripping bars are located in the feeding direction of the sewing machine that
a separating device is arranged to separate their side parts of the garment located
on both sides of the gripping bars from each other, that the gripping device is disposable
in the feeding direction of the sewing machine above a first transport device and
formed to transfer the edge parts of the garment to this, that above the first transport
device is located a second transport device by means of which zippers are transportable
to fit up against the edge parts of the garment.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0006]
Figure 1 shows a garment for example a blouse, in a view from above and which is intended
to be provided with a zipper.
Figure 2 and 3 show in perspective two phases during fetching of the garment.
Figure 4 shows the putting-up-table according to the invention in a perspective view.
Figure 5 shows the table according to figure 4 in a view from above, and on which
table a garment has been located.
Figure 6 shows a cross section along the line VI-VI in figure 4.
Figure 7 shows a cross section along the line VII-VII in figure 5.
Figure 8 shows a cross section analoguous with figure 7 through the putting-up-table
with the gripping appliance in cross section and in fetching position.
Figure 9 shows schematically a side view of a part of the automatic sewing machine.
Figure 10 shows the automatic sewing machine in a view from above, but without the
transport devices for the zippers and lining, if any.
Figure 11 shows a cross section through the first transport device of the automatic
sewing machine with the gripping appliance in delivery position.
DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS
[0007] The garment 11 shown in figure 1, which should be provided with a zipper, could be
partly sewed with one seam 12, but is otherwise open laterally. The method according
to the invention may however also be used at such garments, which yet are not sewed
or where the zipper should extend along the entire length of the garment. The garment
11 is folded in such a way that its edge sections 13, at which the zipper is going
to be sewed, are located edge to edge on each other and located on a putting-up-table
14, as is shown in figure 5. The putting-up-table is provided with a stop 15, which
also forms an extension of the table top, which corresponds to the desired seam allowance.
The stop is pivotable around a hinge 16 located at the underside of the table top.
The stop is also provided with a mechanism (not shown) which may turn the stop from
the position shown in figure 7, where it forms a stop for the edge section 13 of the
garment to the position shown in figure 8, in which the stop has been turned to an
inactive position beneath the table top.
[0008] The putting-up-table 14 is also provided with two dividing plates 17 and 18 located
at some distance from each other and from the table 14, which extend laterally over
the table at its one front edge. The dividing plates 17 and 18 are bent upwards from
each other at the end directed against the stop 15 forming a funnel-formed opening.
As can be seen in figure 6 the garment 11 is located partly in direct contact to the
stop 15 and the side parts 19 and 20 of the garment partly are separated at their
upper end in such a way that the lower side part will be located beneath the dividing
plate 18 while the upper side part will be located on the top of the dividing plate
17.
[0009] A gripping appliance 21 is arranged at the side of the putting-up-table 14, which
gripping appliance is displaceable in the direction to and from the putting-up-table,
as is shown by the arrow 22, and partly it is displaceable in its longitudinal direction
towards and from a first conveyor 23 in the direction of the arrow 24 and partly it
is pivotable around its longitudinal axle around the arrow 25. The gripping appliance
21 consists of two transferring arms 26 which at their free ends are provided with
gripping bars 27. The gripping appliance is pivotable from a position in which the
gripping bars 27, which are brought together, are horizontal to a position in which
they are located vertically. ,The automatic sewing machine includes also a separating
device 28 comprising of two parts of which one dividing device 29 is located at the
gripping appliance 21 and which comprises of a knife blade 31 pivotable around an
axle 30, while the other dividing device 32 comprises of a plough formed tip located
at the support 33 of the first transport device 23. In the transport position of the
gripping appliance 21, i.e. when the gripping bars 27 are located horizontally the
knife blade 31 of the separating device is located in front of the plough tip 32 and
at a movement of the gripping appliance 21 in the direction of the arrow 24, i.e.
towards the sewing machine 34, the knife blade 31 will be turned backwards against
the action of a spring which is not shown.
[0010] The first transport device 23 includes two parallel endless transport belts 35 and
36 which are arranged at a small distance from each other. Pressure bars 37 are arranged
above these, which pressure bars can be pressed against the transport belts, and which
are vertically adjustable so much that the gripping bars 27 of the gripping appliance
21 may be inserted between these and the transport belts 35, 36 resp.
[0011] A second transport device 38 is arranged above the first transport device 23. The
second transport device includes a not shown device for feeding of a zipper in the
form of a band from a store spool, but it is also possible to feed zippers in pieces
via the transport device. The last part of the transport device 38 shown in figure
9, comprises an inclined guiding chute 39, which opens just on this side of the press
foot 40 of the sewing machine 34. If necessary there may further be a third transport
device 41 in near connection to and above the second transport device 38 and which
is used for feeding of a lining if any.
THE FUNCTION OF THE AUTOMATIC SEWING MACHINE
[0012] The only manual work which has to be executed is putting the side parts 19, 20 of
the garment together in such a way that their edge sections 13 at which the zipper
should be sewed on, are located edge to edge and above each other, whereby the garment
is located on the putting-up-table 14 with the said edge sections against the stop
15 and with its upper part 19 separated by means of separating plates 17 and 18.
[0013] For fetching the garment the gripping appliance 21 is turned
to the position shown in figure 8, whereby the gripping bars 27 are somewhat separated
so that these may grip over the edge section 13 which extends from the table 14. Just
before the
gripping appliance has reached the putting-up-table the stop 15 is turned downwards
beneath the table, so that the edge section 13 is uncovered.
[0014] At the same time as the gripping appliance has been moved against the putting-up-table,
the knife blade 31 of the separating device 28 has also been moved into the space
between the separating plates 17 and 18, so that when the gripping appliance has pinched
the edge sections 13 between the gripping bars 27 and been displaced back to its starting
point in the direction of the arrow 22, the knife blade 31 will keep the side parts
of the garment separated as is shown in figure 2. During this horizontal movement
the gripping appliance 21 at the same time is turned around is turning axle 42 to
the transport position which is shown in figure 11, in which the garment will be hanging
vertical like the knife blade 31, which also separates edge sections 13 of the garment
11, located above the gripping bars 27, as schematically shown in figure 3.
[0015] With the garment in this position the gripping appliance 21 is displaced along a
transport track 43 in a direction towardsthe sewing machine 34, whereby the knife
blade 31 will hit against the ploughtip 32, so that the side parts of the garment
at one hand will be located on each side of the support 33 of the first transport
device 23 and on the other hand the knife blade will be turned backwards at the movement
of the gripping appliance in the direction of the arrow 24. The pressuring bars 37
are raised up to the point where the gripping appliance 21 has reached its front end
position, in which the arms of the gripping appliance are turned outwards at the same
time as the pressure bars are lowered in such a way that the pressure bars 37 may
press the edge sections 13 against the conveyor belts 35 and 36. These are displaced
in the direction towards the sewing machine 34 and transport the garment with the
folded edge sections facing this. In order to lower the friction between the side
parts of the garment and the support 33 this may possibly be perforated and its interior
could be connected to a source of compressed air, so that the garment is lifted a
little from the support 33. By means of a photocell (not shown) is detected for example
the front edge of the garment when this has come to a certain position whereby the
providing of the zipper may be synchronized, in such a way that both the garment and
the zipper meet each other in an exact position just before both are fed to the press
foot 40 of the sewing machine 34 and the sewing of the Zipper band may begin. The
sewing machine 34 is conveniently in a known manner provided with double needles.
[0016] A lining may be provided to the sewing machine via the conveyor 41 in the same way
as the zipper, which lining then will be located above the zipper.
[0017] The operator may locate a new garment on the putting-up-table 14 during the work
of the sewing automatic machine and may in this way serve more than one automatic
sewing machine.
1. Method for automatically guiding of garments from a putting-up-table to a sewing
machine for sewing of zippers, characterized thereby, that the edge sections (13)
of the garment (11), along which edge sections a zipper is intended to be sewed on,
are located essentially horizontally, edge to edge and above each other, that a gripping
appliance (21) grips the garment along said edge sections, a distance inside and essentially
parallel to the edges and turn the garment to a vertical hanging position, that the
side parts of the garment (11) located beneath and above the gripping appliance (21)
are separated from each other by means of a separating device (28) to a position essentially
parallel to gripping bars (27) of the gripping appliance, that the edge sections (13)
of the garment (11) are pressed by the gripping appliance (21) and/or separate pressure
bars (37) against a transport device (23) which guide the garment to a sewing machine
(34), and that a zipper is provided from above to engagement against the edge sections
(13) of the garment, which with the zipper is provided to the press foot (40) of the
sewing machine for sewing.
2. Automatic sewing machine for accomplishing the method according to claim 1 and
including a device for feeding of garments and sewing of a zipper to these by means
of a sewing machine, characterized thereby,
that a gripping appliance (21) is arranged and designed to grip edge parts (13) of
garments (11) located on each other andby means of gripping bars (27), extending horizontally
outside a putting-up-table (14), along which edge parts a zipper is intended to be
sewed on, that the gripping appliance (21) is turnable from one position with its
gripping bars (27) vertically to a horizontal position, in which the press-pinch betwen
the gripping bars, is located in the feeding direction of the sewing machine (34),
that a separating device (28) is arranged to separate the side parts of the garment
located on both sides of the gripping bars from each other, that the gripping appliance
(21) is displaceable in the feeding direction of the sewing machine above a first
transport device (23) and designed to transfer the edge sections (13) of the garment
(11) to this, that above the first transport device (23) is located a second transport
device (38) by means of which zippers are transported to engagement up against with
the edge sections (13) of the garment.
3. Automatic sewing machine according to claim 2, characterized there by,
that the separating device (28) includes a first dividing device (29) which is located
at the gripping appliance (21) and which is designed as a turnable knife blade (31)
intended to be located between the two side parts at fetching of the garment (11),
and of a second plough formed dividing device (32) located at the first transport
device (23).
4. Automatic sewing machine according to the claims 2 or 3, characterized there by,
that the putting-up-table (14) is provided with a turnable stop (15) which in its
turned aside position is arranged to uncover an edge section (13) of the garment (11).
5. Automatic sewing machine according to the claims 3 and 4, characterized there by.
that the putting-up-table (14) is provided with at least one. at some distance above
the putting-up-table (14) located, separating plate (17) for separating of the front
side parts of the garment, seen in the feeding direction of the sewing machine, and
that the knife blade (31) of the separating device (28) is arranged to be inserted
between the separating plate (17) and the side part of the garment located of the
table (14) at the same time as the gripping appliance (21) fetches the garment.
6. Automatic sewing machine according to any of the above claims, characterized there
by, that the first conveyor (23) is provided with double, parallel and endless conveyor
belts (35, 36) and pressure bars (37) or the like which can be pressed against these
between which pressure bars the gripping bars (27) of the gripping appliance (21)
and the edge sections (13) folded by these are introducable inside and for delivery
of said edge sections.
7. Automatic sewing machine according to any of the above claims, characterized there
by, that the second conveyor (38) comprises a guiding chute (39) for the zippers inclined
against the press foot (40) of the sewing machine and that a third conveyor (41) is
arranged close to the second conveyor for feeding of a garment lining, if any, above
the zipper.