BACKGROUND AND SUMMARY OF THE PRESENT INVENTION
1. Introduction
[0001] The present invention generally relates to a process and apparatus for coloring textile
yarns to produce a tone-on-tone or striated appearance when such yarns are utilized
to form a woven fabric. Thus, when woven into a fabric, the yarns of the present invention
produce a very noticeable and aesthetically pleasing tone-on-tone, striated, or heather-like
appearance. Fabrics of this type find particular utility for window shades and vertical
blinds, or as facings for wall covering or other decorative purposes.
[0002] In accordance with the present invention, a textile yarn is coated or otherwise brought
into contact with a colorant-containing liquid. Subsequently, the coated yarn is dried
so that one portion of the yarn surface is dried at a faster rate than the drying
rate of another portion of the yarn surface. Such a differential drying rate between
the yarn surface portions will effect migration of the colorant to that portion of
the yarn surface dried at a faster drying rate to a degree sufficient to achieve a
visually perceptive darker color hue thereat when compared to other yarn surface portions.
Twisting of the yarn during packaging and/or weaving will randomly distribute the
darker color hue surface along the yarn's length. Thus, woven fabrics of the twisted
yarn will be visually striated in coloring appearance.
[0003] Other methods capable of producing multicolored or tone-on-tone effects on fabrics
or yarn exist. One conventional process utilized in Europe reportedly involves the
package dyeing of glass sliver yarns to produce a tone-on-tone colored yarn. Package
dyeing is a process in which a dyebath is pumped under pressure through a package
of yarn wound on a perforated tube. The dyebath solution is thus forceably pumped
through the cross-section of the yarn package. The yarn produced in this conventional
manner is not without its problems, however. Considerable variation in color over
the cross-section of the yarn package may occur, the color becoming progressively
lighter towards the low pressure side of the yarn package. Since the yarn packages
are small (e.g. averaging about 4-5 pounds) there may also be undesirable color variation
from package to package.
[0004] Other attempts at achieving striated tone-on-tone yarn or fabric appearances exist
in the patent literature as evidenced by United States Patent Nos. 3,775,054 to DeVinney;
3,950,132 to Somers et al; 4,087,242 to Frank et al; 4,246,668 to Spillmann et al;
2,823,092 to Spencer; 3,644,969 to Guillermann et al; and 3,726,640 to Takriti et
al.
[0005] United States Patent 3,775,054 discloses a process whereby yarns with random color
variation can be produced by applying dye using a rotating brush member. The differential
speed between the linear speed of the rotating brush tips and the linear speed of
the moving yarns determines the blending effect of the applied dye with respect to
the basic color characteristics of the yarns.
[0006] United States Patent 3,950,132 disclose a random dyeing method wherein the yarns
are laid in a zig-zag fashion and passed through a pair of dye- application rollers.
[0007] United States Patent 4,087,242 relates to a method of providing variegated dyed yarns
which includes, in a preliminary step, passing a partially oriented polyester feeder
yarn over a surface which is wetted with a liquid reagent. The liquid reagent alters
the affinity of the yarn to a disperse dye and thus when the feeder yarn is dyed,
the area treated with the reagent will be intermittently darker due to the increased
dye affinity thereof.
[0008] United States Patent 4,246,668 discloses a process wherein a number of webs of material
are guided in a side-by-side fashion between treatment rollers. The treatment pressure
is set differently at individual longitudinal portions of the roller nip so that the
web of material is exposed to different treatment pressure at different points with
the result that dye or other finishes are forced out of those portions of the web
subjected to the greatest pressure and into those portions subjected to the least
pressure.
[0009] United States Patent 2,823,092 discloses a method whereby so-called "marbled" open-width
cloth can be produced by compressing the cloth width-wise into a rope form and subsequently
passing the compressed cloth while in such rope form lengthwise through a padding
zone. The surface of the cloth in the padding zone will therefore acquire a random
localized application of multi-tone color in spaced isolated portions thereof so as
to establish the "marbled" appearance when the cloth is subsequently reopened to its
full width.
[0010] United States Patent 3,644,969 discloses a method whereby thermoplastic yarn can
be fed into a confined space so as to form a long stack of uniform cross-section of
folded yarn. A dye solution is then fed at different locations to the same cross-section
of the stack so the resulting intensity of the color of the yarn due to each dye falls
off across the stack from the point of application.
[0011] United States Patent 3,726,640 discloses a method wherein color patterns can be formed
on e.g. carpets by application of dye droplets in an equal volume over the surface
of the carpet breadth.
[0012] In a first aspect of the present invention, ther is provided a method of producing
a colored textile yarn comprising the steps of:
(a) applying a colorant-containing liquid to th surface of the textile yarn; and
(b) unevenly heating the textile yarn to cause the colorant in the liquid to substantially
migrate toward the source of heat to thereby produce a colore yarn having one portion
that is visibly darker in colour hue when compared to another portion of the yarn.
[0013] The method of the present invention is capable of providing a novel process for producing
striated or tone-on-tone colored textile yarns for weaving into fabrics so that the
resulting woven fabrics exhibit a notable tone-on-tone, striated, or heather-like
appearance. In accordance with the present invention therefore, a striated colored
yarn which is consistent in color and which exhibits a large degree of contrast between
the dark and light areas of the yarn can be produced. Moreover, various weights and
yarn sizes can be processed to produce a striated colored textile yarn of the present
invention.
[0014] The striated colored textile yarn of the present invention can be produced in virtually
unlimited package sizes and exhibits good light fastness and heat stability. Other
desired properties including durability to washing, flame retardancy, water, stain
and abrasion resistances can be imparted to the yarn in dependence upon the selected
components of the yarn treatment bath.
[0015] Virtually all textile yarns can be treated in the manner of the present invention.
For example, natural yarns of cotton, synthetic yarns of polyester or nylon and blends
of such natural and synthetic yarns can be advantageously treated in accordance with
the present invention so long as the textile yarns are capable of absorbing a colorant-containing
liquid.
[0016] The "colorant" in the liquid can be either a dyestuff (natural and/or synthetic)
or a pigment. When pigments are utilized as a colorant, it is typically desirable
to include a resin component in the liquid to act as a binder for the pigments to
ensure proper adhesion to the textile yarn. For example, when treating glass sliver
yarns in accordance with the present invention, it is particularly preferred to utilize
a pigmented liquid resin.
[0017] The glass sliver yarns are preferably contacted with a pigmented resin bath comprising
an acrylic resin, suitable pigments for coloring, and other auxiliary chemical components
including silane, surfactants, and softners. The yarns are then dried according to
the present invention, for example, by means of a heated cylinder, to promote pigment
migration to that side of the yarn in direct contact with the cylinder. The colored
yarn exiting the drying cylinder has a ribbon-like form with one side being noticeably
darker in color hue when compared to the other side thereof. However, as indicated
above, other synthetic and natural textile yarns could also be treated by a nonresinous
dye bath suitable for the particular yarns utilized so long as the "differential"
drying rate is maintained to cause colorant migration towards the heat source (e.g.
to the yarn side adjacent the heated drum).
[0018] The treated yarn is then wound on a conventional package (e.g. yarn package core)
suitable for weaving. When woven into a fabric, a very pleasing randomly striated,
tone-on-tone, or heather-like appearance is achieved. Varying degrees of color contrast
can be achieved by altering the components in the pigmented liquid bath and by utilizing
different temperatures on the drying cylinder.
[0019] Reference will hereinafter be made to the accompanying drawings wherein like reference
numerals denote like elements throughout the various figures, and wherein:
FIGURE 1 is a schematic perspective view showing a preferred apparatus of the present
invention for coloring textile yarns;
FIGURE 2 is a schematic representation of a single glass sliver yarn, partially twisted,
showing dark and light pigmented areas achieved by the present invention; and
FIGURE 3 is a photograph of a fabric sample woven with the yarn schematically depicted
in FIGURE 2.
[0020] The process for producing a striated or tone-on-tone colored textile yarn is dependent
on the ability of the colorant component of the liquid to migrate to specific areas
of the yarn. The term "migration" as used herein is meant to refer to the movement
of dye or pigment from one area of the yarn or fabric to another. Many factors have
been found to influence colorant migration, including the affinity of the yarn for
the dye or pigment, the nature of the dyes or pigments involved, the nature of the
finish components, the manner in which the finish is applied, and most important,
the manner in which the material is dried and the drying temperature.
[0021] For example, since glass yarns do not have a natural affinity for dyes or pigments,
it is preferred to use a water-based resin bonded pigment system to color the glass
yarns since the resin or binder holds the pigments on the glass filaments. The technique
for dying glass yarns is not unlike that of painting except that a pigmented resin
bath for textile purposes is more fluid compared to a latex paint and the bath components
are selected for desired effects.
[0022] Various resins or binders may be advantageously used according to the present invention
including polymers or copolymers of polyvinylchloride, polyvinylacetate, polyvinyl
acrylates and latexes of butadiene styrene, polyester, polyethylene vinyl acetate,
chlorinated polyethylene vinyl acetate, water based silicone elastomers or any combination
of these. Particularly preferred binders are selected from the acrylic copolymer group
typically termed acrylic resins or latex resins. Acrylic latexes have good adhesion
to glass, are noted for good heat stability and lightfastness, and are also good pigment
binders. A wide variety of acrylic latexes are commercially available and may be selected
for specific properties such as a soft hand, durability to washing or drycleaning,
or for abrasion resistance.
[0023] When using glass sliver yarns, the acrylic latex chosen may affect the degree of
color migration. If the acrylic latex is cationic in nature, it will have an affinity
for the negatively charged glass surface and be less prone to migrate. If the acrylic
is too reactive at low temperatures, it may cure before the moisture is completely
removed and before adequate migration is achieved. Preferred acrylic latexes should
therefore be anionic or non-ionic in nature and should not cure at temperatures below
250°F. At 250°F, the water will have evaporated and pigment migration will essentially
be complete. The concentration of the acrylic latex may also influence migration.
A pigmented resin bath of 95 percent acrylic latex resin and 5 percent pigments will
tend to migrate considerably less than a bath consisting of 4 percent resin and 5
percent pigments when processed in a similar manner. Preferred concentrations of acrylic
resin for treating e.g. glass sliver yarns according to the process of the present
invention range from between about 2-25 percent (based upon the weight of the solids
in the bath) with a more preferred range of between about 4-10 percent.
[0024] The primary purpose of the pigments is, of course, to achieve a desired color. Organic
pigments with good lightfastness including the phthalocyanine blues and greens, quinacridone
reds, benzidine yellows, and carbon blacks are particularly preferred. Inorganic pigments
including iron oxide yellows, iron oxide reds, cadmium or chrome yellows and cobalt
blues may also be used, but such inorganic pigments migrate under the conditions of
the present invention to lesser degree than organic pigments.
[0025] Auxiliary chemicals may be added to the resin bath for improved processing or for
added properties. Softners including polyethylene emulsions, silicones, expoxidized
soybean oil and waxes may be added to improve the final hand of the yarn. It is often
desirable with glass yarns to add small amounts of a silane coupling agent to help
bond the resin and pigments to the glass surface for improved durability to crocking,
abrasion, and washing. Wetting agents, defoamers, delustering agents, fluorochemicals
for water and stain repellancy, and various hand modifiers may be added to achieve
desired results. These additives should not be used in excess otherwise the migration
properties of the pigments in the bath may be masked.
[0026] An exemplary pigmented resin bath formulation suitable for use in the present invention
includes:

[0027] Particularly preferred yarns suitable for coloring by the process and apparatus of
this invention include glass sliver yarns. A glass sliver yarn is a collection of
numerous strands of glass filaments. A particularly suitable glass sliver yarn is
identified as 666 TEX and is manufactured by The Schuller Company in Europe and can
be commercially obtained in the United States from Manville Sales Corporation. The
666 TEX yarn consists of numerous glass filaments having a nominal diameter of 10
microns and lengths of 18-24 inches. When these filaments are collected into a single
strand, a yarn with a fluffy and almost texturized appearance is produced with random
vairations in the diameter and bulkiness of the yarn. Another suitable glass sliver
yarn is 333 TEX which has a diameter size about one-half that of the 666 TEX yarn.
[0028] Although reference has been made and will hereinafter be made to glass sliver yarns
as the particularly preferred yarns for treatment in accordance with the present invention,
favorable results are also achieved when utilizing natural yarns (e.g. cotton), synthetic
yarns (e.g. polyester or nylon) or blends thereof. The particular colorant-containing
bath utilized will of course depend upon the type of textile yarn being treated. It
may thus be desirable to use a nonresinous dyestuff bath with certain textile yarns.
The selection of a particular colorant-containing liquid for treating particular textile
yarns is believed well within the skill of those in this art.
[0029] FIGURE 1 shows a dyeing apparatus 10 which is particularly suitable for the practice
of the present invention and for describing the sequence of the processing steps involved.
The untreated yarn 12 is creeled from a standard yarn package 14 and passed into bath
16 containing the colorant liquid (hereinafter termed "finish"). Excess finish is
squeezed from yarn 12 by rubber pad rolls 18,20 and the wet yarn is then passed onto
a heated cylinder 22 which is preferably driven by any suitable means (not shown)
to effect movement of the yarn through the various processing stations. The side of
the yarn 12 facing away from the cylinder 22 is identified in the accompanying figures
as "side a" while the side in direct contact with the cylinder 22 is identified as
"side b". While the surface temperature of the cylinder is substantially uniform,
the yarn itself is not dried uniformly. Side b of yarn 12 which is in contact with
the heated cylinder 22 begins to dry first. As side b dries, the finish and colorants
from other portions of the yarn including the center and side a of the yarn 12 migrate
towards these initial dry areas. Further drying and migration of the finish occur
due to the continued contact of side b with cylinder 22. Side b thus exhibits a darker
color hue when compared to side a due to the finish migration thereto by virtue of
the contact of side b with heated cylinder 22.
[0030] Of course, the yarn 12 does not dry immediately nor is colorant migration instantaneous.
For that reason, the yarn 12 is preferably maintained in contact with the heated surface
of cylinder 22 until drying of yarn 12 is complete. Since the cylinder 22 is usually
not large enough in diameter to complete drying of the yarn 12 in one revolution,
the yarn 12 is preferably spiralled on the cylinder 22 for a number of turns. After
each turn, the yarn 12 is pulled from cylinder 22 by an offset tensioning roll 24
which aids in tracking the yarn on the cylinder 22.
[0031] Side b of yarn 12 is always disposed in contact with the heated cylinder 22 and therefore,
the finish and colorants will always migrate towards the cylinder 22 (e.g. from side
a to side b). There is little tendency for the yarn 12 to twist on the cylinder 22
since there is sufficient tension by virtue of offset roll 24 to maintain the yarn
12 against cylinder 22. If desired, a small amount of wax for improved weaving lubricity
can be applied to yarn 12 by means of a kiss roll 26 before the yarn is wound onto
a package 30.
[0032] Some twisting of yarn 12 may naturally occur when it is wound onto package 30. Additional
twisting of yarn 12 could be achieved, if desired by suitable mechanical twisting
means (not shown) so as to further randomly distribute the darker color hue of side
b along the length of yarn 12. Thus package 30 may itself exhibit a heather-like appearance
from random portions of side b being exposed due to such twisting. Of course, twisting
means could also be positioned adjacent to a weaving machine so as to effect desired
twisting of yarn 12 when creeled from package 30 during fabric production, if desired.
[0033] FIGURE 2 schematically depicts an exemplary glass sliver yarn 12 colored by the process
of the present invention, the yarn 12 being illustrated in a twisted state to show
that side b is darker than side a.
[0034] A fabric woven with yarn 12 as a filler in the cross machine direction is shown in
accompanying FIGURE 3. In weaving, the yarn of the present invention has a tendency
to further twist or turn as it is inserted as fill into the fabric and thus different
portions of the upper and lower yarn surfaces are visible on the fabric face. In effect,
therefore, the twisting randomizes the dark and light color hues of the upper and
lower yarn surfaces to give the pleasing heather-like appearance to the woven fabric.
As noted above, twisting of the yarn may also occur as the yarn is transferred from
the cylinder 22 to package 30.
[0035] The temperature of the heated cylinder 22 is an important factor in determining the
degree of colorant migration and thus ultimately the degree of contrast between the
dark and light areas in the colored yarn. Too low a surface temperature will result
in little, if any, migration since the yarn would effectively be dried uniformly.
Uniform drying of the yarn is to be avoided in accordance with the present invention.
Too high a temperature on the other hand may destabilize the finish on the wet yarn
and, for example, may cause the colorant to separate from the glass yarn surface when
glass sliver yarns are utilized. The high temperature may also discolor some of the
finish components or the starch-based binder typically applied to some yarns during
manufacturing. A preferred range of temperatures for colorant migration to occur in
accordance with the present invention is about 250 degrees to about 450 degrees Farenheit
and an even more preferred temperature range is between about 300 degrees to about
350 degrees Farenheit.
[0036] Cylinder 22 shown in accompanying FIGURE 1 preferably has a diameter of about 30
inches although larger or smaller diameters can be employed, if desirable. The suface
of cylinder 22 is heated by means of steam in accordance with well known techniques.
Depending on the steam pressure utilized, temperatures of 300-350 degrees Farenheit
can be obtained and controlled without difficulty employing control techniques believed
well known to those in this art.
[0037] The present invention will be further understood by reference to the following nonlimiting
examples.
EXAMPLE I
[0038] In the following example, a pigmented resin bath of the below formulation was utilized:

[0039] A 666 TEX glass sliver yarn obtained from Manville Sales Corporation, Denver, Colorado
was padded with the above resin bath formula on an apparatus similar to that shown
in accompanying FIGURE 1 at a pad pressure of 25 lbs/sq. in. The heated cylinder 22
(steam can) was set at a temperature of 310°F and the yarn was wrapped around the
cylinder for the required number of turns so as to be in contact with the heated cylinder
for a period of 2 minutes. The completely dried and cured yarn was then wound onto
a package.
[0040] The treated yarn was observed to be beige-tan in color and was about 30% darker in
color on one side (e.g. the side that came into contact with the heated cylinder)
when compared to the other side. When the yarn treated in this example was woven into
a fabric style identified as Burlington Industries S/16003/666 (see FIGURE 3), the
result was a fabric exhibiting a highly striated or tone-on-tone tan color.
EXAMPLE II
[0041] A pigmented resin bath of the below composition was used:

[0042] The following textile yarns were each brought into contact with the above-formulated
pigmented liquid bath and dried in a manner similar to Example I above with running
times (ie. time in contact with the heated cylinder) adjusted to account for variance
in the amount of pigmented liquid absorbed:

[0043] Visual inspection revealed that each yarn nos. 1-4 exhibited a beige-tan color and
was significantly darker on that portion of the yarn which came into contact with
the heated cylinder. Although the amount of pigment migration varied among the yarn
nos. 1-4, each exhibited a visually perceptible color hue difference thereby rendering
such yarns suitable for forming woven fabrics having a striated appearance similar
to FIGURE 3.
[0044] It is understood that various modifications will be apparent to those skilled in
the art without departing from the scope and spirit of this invention. For example,
other methods of drying the yarn, such as electrical heat, may be utilized to induce
and encourage migration of the pigments. The colorant liquid bath may also be applied
by means other than padding, for example, by spraying, kiss- coating, or printing
onto the yarn.
1. A method of producing a colored textile yarn comprising the steps of:
(a) applying a colorant-containing liquid to the surface of the textile yarn; and
(b) unevenly heating the textile yarn to cause the colorant in the liquid to substantially
migrate toward the source of heat to thereby produce a colored yarn having one portion
that is visibly darker in color hue when compared to another portion of the yarn.
2. A method as in claim 1 wherein step (b) is practiced by the steps of:
(i) providing a drum having a cylindrical outer surface;
(ii) heating the drum surface; and
(iii) bringing the one portion of the yarn into contact with the heated drum surface
so that the one portion of the yarn is dried at a rate faster than the other portion
of the yarn to thereby cause the colorant to migrate to the one portion.
3. A method as in claim 2 wherein step (ii) is practiced by heating the drum surface
to between about 250°F to about 450°F.
4. A method as in claim 1 wherein said textile yarn is a cotton, polyester, nylon
or glass sliver yarns.
5. A method of coloring textile yarn so as to produce yarn having a darker color hue
on one side thereof when compared to the other side of the yarn, said method comprising
the steps of:
(a) applying a colorant-containing liquid to the surfaces of said one and other sides
of the yarn;
(b) drying said one side of the yarn at a drying rate which is faster than the drying
rate of said other side of the yarn to establish a drying rate gradient between said
one and other sides; and
(c) allowing the colorant in the liquid applied according to step (a) to migrate to
said one side of the yarn by virtue of the drying rate gradient established according
to step (b), said migration effecting a darker color hue on said one side when compared
to said other side.
6. A method as in claim 5 wherein step (a) is practiced by bringing the yarn into
contact with a bath having the colorant-containing liquid contained therein.
7. A method as in claim 5 wherein said colorant-containing liquid consists essentially
of an organic pigment and at least one resin component selected from the group consisting
of polymers and copolymers of polyvinyl chloride, polyvinylacetate, polyvinylacrylate,
and latexes of butadiene syrene, polyester, polyethylene vinyl acetate, chlorinated
polyethylene vinyl acetate, and water based silicone elastomers.
8. A method as in claim 7 wherein said textile yarn is a glass sliver yarn.
9. A yarn produced by a method as claimed in any one of Claims 1 to 8.
10. A method of producing a woven textile fabric comprising the steps of:
(a) coloring textile yarns having upper and lower yarn surfaces so that the lower
yarn surface exhibits a visually perceptible darker color hue when compared with the
upper yarn surface, said coloring being practiced by the steps of;
(i) applying a pigment-containing liquid to the upper and lower yarn surfaces; and
(ii) drying the lower yarn surface at a rate faster than the drying rate of the upper
yarn surface to cause the pigments to migrate to the lower yarn surface to a degree
sufficient to create a visually perceptive darker color hue on the lower surface when
compared to the upper surface;
(b) weaving the colored yarns to form a woven textile fabric.
11. A method as in claim 10 further comprising the step of (c) twisting the colored
yarns so that the darker color hue of the lower yarn surface is visually randomly
distributed along the length of the yarns.
12. A woven textile fabric produced by the method of claim 10 or 11.
13. An apparatus for producing textile yarn having one surface which exhibits a visually
perceptible darker color hue when compared to another surface of the yarn, said apparatus
comprising in combination:
coating means for coating said one and another surfaces of the yarn with a colorant-containing
liquid; and
drying means downstream of said coating means for drying said one surface of the yarn
at a drying rate faster than said another surface of the yarn to establish a drying
rate gradient between said one and another yarn surfaces to responsively encourage
migration of a substantial portion of said colorants in said liquid to said one yarn
surface so that said one yarn surface exhibits a visually perceptive darker color
hue by virtue of the colorant migration thereto when compared to said another yarn
surface.
14. An apparatus as in claim 13 further comprising creeling means upstream of said
coating means for creeling said yarn to said coating means, and means downstream of
said drying means for winding said yarn into a yarn package.
15. An apparatus as in claim 13 or 14 wherein said drying means includes a rotatable
drum defining an external cylindrical surface and means for heating said drum surface.
16. An apparatus as in claim 15 further comprising tensioning means spaced from the
said drum for maintaining said one yarn surface in tensioned contact with said external
cylindrical surface.