[0001] As used in the specification and claims, the term "nylon 66" shall mean those synthetic
linear polyamides containing in the polymer molecule at least 85% by weight of recurring
structural units of the formula

[0002] Historically, certain nylon 66 apparel yarns were spun at low speeds of up to about
1400 meters per minute and packaged. The spun yarns were then drawn on a second machine
and packaged again. The drawn yarn was then false-twist textured at slow speeds of
the order of 55-230 meters per minute by the pin-twist method, yielding a very high
quality stretch yarn suitable for stretch garments such as leotards. An exemplary
false-twisting element for the pin-twist texturing process is disclosed in Racshle
U.S. 3,475,895.
[0003] More recently, various other types of false twisting apparatus.have come into commercial
use, and are collectively referred to as "friction-twist". Some of the most widely
used of these -include a disc aggregate of the general type illustrated in Yu U.S.
3,973,383, Fishback U.S. 4,012,896 or Schuster U.S. 3,885,378. Friction-twisting permits
considerably higher texturing speeds than pin-twisting, with yarn speeds currently
at about 700-900 mpm. Such high texturing speeds are more economical than those attained
by the pin-twist process.
[0004] Along with the shift to friction-twisting has come a shift to partially-oriented
nylon 66 (PON) yarns as the feeder yarns for the friction-twist process. In the conventional
PON spinning process, the winding speed is merely increased from the previous standard
of about 900-1500 meters per minute to speeds generally in the 2750-4000 meters per
minute range, resulting in a PON yarn. PON yarn performs better in the high speed
friction-twist texturing process than either the earlier drawn yarn or the low-speed
spun yarn mentioned above. However, heretofore yarns textured by the friction-twist
process were of distinctly lower quality in terms of crimp development than yarns
textured by the pin-twist process. The apparel nylon 66 false-twist textured yarn
market is accordingly in essentially two distinct segments: the older, expensive,
high quality pin-twist yarns, and the newer, less costly, lower quality friction-twist
yarns.
[0005] PON feeder yarns for false-twist texturing have had RV's in the range from the middle
or upper thirties to the low forties, as indicated by U.S. 3,994,121. Such yarns have
more than adequate tenacity for conventional apparel end uses, With conventional nylon
66 polymerization techniques, increasing the polymer RV is expensive and leads to
increased rates of gel formation, with consequent shortening of spinning pack (filter)
life. High RV polymer is therefore ordinarily not used unless required for some special
purpose, such as when high yarn tenacity is required.
[0006] It has recently been discovered that high RV PON feeder yarns permit manufacture
of friction-twist yarns having increased crimp development, in some cases comparable
to that of pin-twist yarns. This increased crimp development provides a substantial
increase in fabric covering power as compared to fabrics made from friction-twist
yarns made from PON feeder yarns as disclosed by Adams U.S. 3,994,121. Accordingly,
less textured yarn is required to provide a fabric of equivalent covering power. Increased
productivity in spinning and texturing is also provided by high RV PON yarns.
[0007] According to the present invention, a further and substantial improvement in the
art is provided by a novel PON feeder yarn, permitting formation of a friction-twist
textured yarn having in some cases markedly higher crimp development than even pin-twist
yarns. This permits either or both of increased stretching capability in a fabric
or use of even less yarn to provide a fabric of equivalent covering power, even as
compared to pin-twist yarns.
[0008] The yarns of the invention are, broadly, false twist texturing feed yarns spun at
high speeds and characterized by a sheath-core conjugate structure, with the sheaths
formed from nylon 66 polymer having a lower temperature than the polymer forming the
cores. The mechanism or precise reason for the improved results of the present invention
are not entirely understood.
[0009] According to a first principal aspect of the invention, there is provided a process
for spinning a sheath-core filament, comprising generating a molten stream comprising
a nylon 66 sheath component and a core component having a higher temperature than
the sheath component, extruding the stream through a spinneret capillary, quenching
the stream into a filament, and withdrawing the filament at a spinning speed of at
least 2200 MPM.
[0010] According to further aspects of the invention, the core component is preferably nylon
66, and the sheath component preferably has the same RV as said core component. Advantageously
the RV of the sheath component is at least 50, with best results obtained when the
RV of the sheath component is at least 60. Preferably the sheath-core volumetric ratio
is less than 1 to 1, with best results being obtained when the sheath-core volumetric
ratio is less than 3 to 7. Advantageously the spinning speed is selected such that
the filament has an elongation lower than 100%, with a filament elongation between
40% to 90% being preferred. Improved results are frequently obtained when the filament
is drawn and wound at a winding speed between 1.1 and 2 times as fast as the spinning
speed.
[0011] Other aspects of the invention will in part appear hereinafter and will in part be
obvious from the following detailed description taken together with the accompanying
drawing, wherein:
[0012]
FIGURE 1 is a schematic front-elevation of an exemplary apparatus for spinning the
yarns of the invention; and
FIGURE 2 is a cross-section of an exemplary filament according to the invention.
[0013] As shown in FIGURE 1, molten polymer streams 20 are extruded through capillaries
in spinneret 22 downwardly into quench zone 24 supplied with transversely directed
quenching air at room temperature. Streams 20 solidify into filaments 26 at some distance
below the spinneret within the quench zone. Filaments 26 are converged to form yarn
28 and pass through interfloor conditioner tube 30. A conventional spin-finish is
applied to yarn 28 by finish roll 32. Yarn 28 next passes in partial wraps about godets
34 and 36 and is wound on package 38. The filaments may be entangled if desired, as
by pneumatic tangle chamber 40.
[0014] Ordinarily, godets 34 and 36 perform the functions of withdrawing filaments 26 from
streams 20 at a spinning speed determined by the peripheral speed of godet 34, and
of reducing the tension in yarn 28 from the rather high level just prior to godet
34 to an acceptable level for winding onto package 38. Winding tensions within the
range of 0.03 to 0.25 grams per denier are preferred, with tensions of about 0.1 grams
per denier being particularly preferred. Godets 34 and 36 may be dispensed with if
the yarn winding tension immediately prior to the winder in the absence of the godets
is within the yarn tension ranges indicated in this paragraph. "Winding tension" as
used herein means the yarn tension as measured just prior to the yarn traversing and
winding mechanism. Some commercially available winders include an auxiliary roll designed
to both assist in yarn traversing and to permit reducing the yarn tension as the yarn
is wound onto the bobbin or package. Such winders may be of assistance when using
the upper portions of the yarn tension ranges indicated in this paragraph.
Description of the Prior Art
. Example 1
[0015] This is an example within the range of present conventional practice. Nylon 66 polymer
having an RY of 39 is extruded through a conventional spinning pack and spinneret
at a melt temperature of 285°C. Spinneret 22 contains 34 capillaries having lengths
of 0.012" (0.3 mm.) and diameters of 0.009" (0.229 mm.) Quench zone 24 is 35 (60.96
to 88.9 cm) inches in height, and is supplied with 20oC. quench air having an average
horizontal velocity of 1 foot (30.5 cm.) per second. Filaments 26 are converged into
yarn 28 approximately 36 inches (91.4 cm.) below the spinneret. Conditioner tube 30
is 72 inches (183 cm.) long and is of the type disclosed in Koschinek U.S. 4,181,697,
i.e., a seamless tube heated to 120°C. through which yarn 28 passes. The speed of
godets 34 and 36 are 3500 meters per minute and 3535 meters per minutes, respectively,
to prevent the yarn from wrapping on godet 36. The polymer metering rate is selected
such that the yarn wound has a denier of 103. The winder used is the Toray 601, and
the winder speed is adjusted to provide a winding tension of 0.1 grams per denier.
The yarn has an elongation-to-break of 85% and an RV of 41 (about 700 poise calculated
zero shear rate viscosity at 284°C).
[0016] The spun yarn is then simultaneously drawn and friction-twist textured on a Barmag
FK6-L900 texturing machine using a 2-1/2 meter primary heater and a Barmag disc-aggregate
with Kyocera ceramic discs in a draw zone between a feed and draw or mid roll. The
heater temperature is 225°C., and the ratio of the peripheral speed of the discs to
draw roll speed (the D/Y ratio) is 1:95. The draw roll speed is set at 750 meters
per minute, and the feed roll speed is adjusted to some lower speed to control the
draw ratio and hence the draw-texturing tension (the yarn tension between the exit
of the heater and the aggregate). In order to maximize the crimp development, the
draw ratio is changed by adjustment of the feed roll speed so that the draw-texturing
tension is high enough for stability in the false twist zone and yet low enough that
the filaments are not broken, this being the operable texturing tension range. Within
the operable tension range, the "maximum texturing tension" is defined as the tension
producing the maximum initial crimp development without an unacceptable level of broken
filaments (frays). More than 10 broken filaments per kilogram are unacceptable in
commercial use.
[0017] With the Example 1 yarn, the operable texturing tension range is quite narrow when
draw-texturing at 750 meters per minute. The maximum texturing tension is found to
be about 0.43 grams per draw roll denier, and the aged crimp development (yarn stored
on the bobbin two weeks after texturing) is about 13-16%. The draw roll denier is
defined as the spun yarn denier divided by the mechanical draw ratio provided by the
different surface speeds of the feed roll feeding the yarn to the heater and of the
draw or mid roll just downstream of the false-twist device. When the texturing tension
is more than 0.45 grams per draw roll denier, an unacceptable level of broken filaments
is produced. An attempt to increase initial crimp development by increase in heater
temperature much above 225°C. also leads to an unacceptable level of broken filaments.
The textured yarn denier is about 70.
Example 2
[0018] This is an example of high RV PON yarn. The spinning process of the first paragraph
of Example 1 is repeated, except the polymer is selected and dried so that the yarn
RV is about 55-57 (about 1288 poise calculated zero shear rate viscosity at 284°C).
The PON yarn denier is 112, and the yarn has an elongation-to-break of 111%. When
the spun yarn of this paragraph is draw-textured, the operable range of yarn tensions
in the false-twist zone is broader than in the case of Example 1 above. The textured
yarn has a denier of 70 and an aged crimp development of about 19%. Finished fabrics
formed from the textured yarn of this example have greater covering power and stretch
than similar fabrics formed from the textured yarn of Example 1.
[0019] Further increases in texturing tension do not appreciably affect the crimp development,
but merely result in broken filaments or yarn breaks.
THE INVENTION
[0020] FIGURE 2 illustrates the preferred sheath-core filament according to the invention,
with sheath 42 surrounding core 44. Spinneret pack designs for forming such sheath-core
filaments are well known in the art. According to the invention, sheath 42 is nylon
66 spun at a lower temperature than core 44 and the spinning speed is at least 2200
MPM.
Example 3
[0021] This is an example according to the invention. The apparatus described in Example
1 is used except the spinneret pack used in Examples 1 and 2 above is replaced by
a spinneret pack designed to produce 34 sheath-core filaments. A batch of nylon 66
polymer is dried to produce nominal 55 yarn RV (about 1288 poise calculated zero shear
rate viscosity at 285°C.). The molten polymer is split into two streams and spun under
the conditions set forth in Example 1 above as sheath-core filaments with the sheath
polymer streams at a temperature of 285°C. and the core polymer streams at a temperature
of 300°C., the sheath-core volumetric ratio being 2 to 3. That is, 40% by volume of
the filament is formed by the sheath component, with the remaining 60% being formed'by
the core.
[0022] When the PON yarn is drawtextured by the friction-twist method at its maximum texturing
tension, the resulting textured yarn has a denier of 70 and an aged crimp development
higher than that of the yarn in Example 2 above. The increased crimp development provides
for greater stretch and covering power in fabrics made from the textured yarn of the
invention.
Example 4
[0023] It has been discovered that a small amount of draw (between 1.05 and 2.0 draw ratio)
prior to winding gives improved results in some instances. Example 3 is repeated,
except the speed of godet 34 is reduced to provide a draw ratio of about 1.3. The
resulting PON when drawtextured has still higher crimp development than that in Example
3.
Test Methods
[0024] All yarn packages to be tested are conditioned at 21 degrees C. and 65% relative
humidity for one day prior to testing.
[0025] The yarn elongation-to-break (commonly referred to as "elongation") is measured one
week after spinning. Fifty yards of yarn are stripped from the bobbin and discarded.
Elongation-to-break is determined using an Instron tensile testing instrument. The
gage length (initial length) of yarn sample between clamps on the instrument) is 25
cm., and the crosshead speed is 30 cm. per minute. The yarn is extended until it breaks.
Elongation-to-break is defined as the increase in sample length at the time of maximum
load or force (stress) applied, expressed as a percentage of the original gage length
(25 cm.).
[0026] Crimp development is measured as follows. Yarn is wound at a positive tension less
than 2 grams on a Suter denier reel or equivalent to provide a 1-1/8 meter circumference
skein. The number of reel revolutions is determined by 2840/yarn denier, to the nearest
revolution. This provides a skein of approximately 5680 skein denier and an initial
skein length of 9/16 meter. A 14.2 gram weight or load is suspended from the skein,
and the loaded skein is placed in a forced-air oven maintained at 180°C. for 5 minutes.
The skein is then removed from the oven and conditioned for 1 minute at room temperature
with the 14.2 gram weight still suspended from the skein, at which time the skein
length L2 is measured to the nearest 0.1 cm. The 14.2 gram weight is then replaced
with a 650 gram weight. Thirty seconds after the 650 gram weight is applied to the
skein, the skein length L3 is measured to the nearest 0.1 cm. Percentage crimp development
is defined as L3-L2/L3 x 100. Crimp development decreases with time as the textured
yarn ages on the bobbin, rapidly for the first hours and days, then more slowly. When
"aged crimp development" is specified herein, the textured yarn is stored on its bobbin
at room temperature, and measurement is made two weeks after texturing.
[0027] Relatively viscosity (RV) is determined by ASTM D789-81, using 90% formic acid.
[0028] Broken filaments are determined visually, by counting the number of broken filaments
on the exposed surfaces of the package.
1. A process for spinning a sheath-core filament, comprising:
a. generating a molten stream comprising a nylon 66 sheath component and a core component
having a higher temperature than said sheath component;
b. extruding said stream through a spinneret capillary;
c. quenching said stream into a filament, and
d. withdrawing said filament at a spinning speed of at least 2200 MPM.
2. The process defined in claim 1, wherein said core component is nylon 66.
3. The process defined in claim 2, wherein said sheath component has the same RV as
said core component.
4. The process defined in claim 2, wherein said RV of said sheath component is at
least 50.
5. The process defined in claim 2, wherein said RV of said sheath component is at
least 60.
6.. The process defined in claim 1, wherein said sheath-core volumetric ratio is less
than 1 to 1.
7. The process defined in claim 6, wherein said sheath-core volumetric ratio is less
than 3 to 7.
8. The process defined in claim 2, wherein said spinning speed is selected such that
said filament has an elongation lower than 100%.
9. The process defined in claim 8, wherein said'spinning speed is selected such that
said filament has an elongation between 40% and 90%.
10. The process defined in claim 2, wherein said filament is drawn and wound at a
winding speed between 1.1 and 2 times as fast as said spinning speed.
11. A filament obtainable by a process of any of the preceding claims.