| (19) |
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(11) |
EP 0 217 548 B1 |
| (12) |
EUROPEAN PATENT SPECIFICATION |
| (45) |
Mention of the grant of the patent: |
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22.08.1990 Bulletin 1990/34 |
| (22) |
Date of filing: 02.09.1986 |
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| (51) |
International Patent Classification (IPC)5: A41C 3/14 |
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| (54) |
Improvement in brassiere wires and method of forming same
Versteifungsbügel für Büstenhalter und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung
Armature de soutien-gorge et procédé de fabrication
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| (84) |
Designated Contracting States: |
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AT BE CH DE FR GB IT LI LU NL SE |
| (30) |
Priority: |
04.09.1985 CA 489992 18.07.1986 US 887903
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| (43) |
Date of publication of application: |
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08.04.1987 Bulletin 1987/15 |
| (73) |
Proprietor: Rowell, Ross |
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Pointe Claire
Québec H9S 4G9 (CA) |
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| (72) |
Inventor: |
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- Rowell, Ross
Pointe Claire
Québec H9S 4G9 (CA)
|
| (74) |
Representative: Archer, Philip Bruce et al |
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Urquhart-Dykes & Lord
European Patent Attorneys
New Priestgate House
57 Priestgate Peterborough
Cambridgeshire PE1 1JX Peterborough
Cambridgeshire PE1 1JX (GB) |
| (56) |
References cited: :
US-A- 2 746 052
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US-A- 4 285 113
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| |
|
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- L.E.ALBAN et al.: "METALS HANDBOOK NINTH EDITION", vol. 4, Heat Treating, pages 18-21,
American Society for Metals, Metals Park, Ohio, US;
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| |
|
| Note: Within nine months from the publication of the mention of the grant of the European
patent, any person may give notice to the European Patent Office of opposition to
the European patent
granted. Notice of opposition shall be filed in a written reasoned statement. It shall
not be deemed to
have been filed until the opposition fee has been paid. (Art. 99(1) European Patent
Convention).
|
[0001] The present invention relates generally to brassieres and more particularly, relates
to improvements in wire members for use in brassieres.
[0002] The use of metallic wires or frames as stiffening members or frames in the manufacture
of brassieres is well known in the art. The wires have a generally U-shaped configuration
extending along the side peripheral portions of the brassiere cups and are generally
of a rectangular cross sectional configuration with the longer dimension extending
radially with respect to the curvature of the wire. The wires are secured to the brassiere
by enclosing the wires within the fabric along the perimeter of the brassiere cups.
The wires may be retained by means of stitching about the ends of the wires. Reference
may be had to U.S. Patent 3,799,175 to Rowell which illustrates a typical wire.
[0003] Typically, as is known in the art, the brassiere wires or frames may be formed of
a spring steel and in particular, a high carbon spring steel which is well known for
its suitability.
[0004] As aforementioned, the use of metallic wires as stiffening members for frames has
been found to be suitable insofar as they provide suitable support and definition
for the garment. However, since the wire used is by its very nature a stiff wire,
it can cause problems insofar as comfort is concerned and in addition, when the brassiere
is repeatedly washed, shrinkage of the fabric can cause the wires to tear through
the stitching or fabric of the brassiere (poke-through) and bevome a source of discomfort.
It has been proposed in the art to provide plastic end caps or tips on the ends of
the wires; although such plastic wires have a lesser tendency to tear through the
fabric, the ends of the wires remain relatively stiff and can be a source of discomfort
to the wearer.
[0005] It has also been proposed in the art to provide end caps or tips wherein the plastic
material forming the cap extends beyond the end of the wire for a substantial distance.
The end cap is of a flexible material and thus renders the end of the wire more resilient
than would otherwise be the case. While such a construction provides substantial advantages
over the bare metallic stiffening member, it has been found that these members which
are slipped on the wire may become disengaged therefrom after repated washing of the
garment. Furthermore, these end caps are frequently secured to the wire after the
same has been inserted in the garment and the manual operation of so doing is an expensive
one.
[0006] There is disclosed in US-A-4 285 113 a brassiere as defined in the pre-characterizing
portion of claim 1 of the present application.
[0007] It is the object of the described embodiment to provide an improved stiffening member
suitable for use in a brassiere wherein the stiffening member has one or more portions
which are softer and more flexible than the remaining portions.
[0008] It is the further object of the embodiment to provide a method for rendering a stiffening
member in a brassiere softer and more flexible.
[0009] It is a still further object of the embodiment to provide a brassiere having a greater
comfort for the wearer and having less of a "poke-through" problem. According to the
invention there is provided a brassiere and a method of treating a stiffening member
used in a brassiere and a stiffening member made by such method, as defined in the
accompanying claims.
[0010] In a preferred embodiment of the invention, a stiffening member for a brassiere is
formed of a metallic spring wire material having a generally U-shaped configuration.
A portion of the stiffening member is subjected to an annealing operation to thereby
soften said portion.
[0011] In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, a method for treating a stiffening
member suitable for use in a brassiere comrises the step of annealing a portion of
the member which is formed of a metallic spring wire material.
[0012] In greater detail, the preferred improved stiffening member comprises a conventional
U-shaped wire having a generally rectangular cross-sectional configuration with the
longer dimension extending radially with respect to the curvature of the wire. The
wire is formed of a spring wire material. At least a portion of the spring wire is
subjected to an annealing step to soften the portion treated and thereby render the
same more flexible or bendable and to provide greater comfort to the wearer.
[0013] The stiffening member may be subjected to the aforesaid annealing operation at one
or more places. Thus, it is within the scope of the present invention to only anneal
the wire at a single location where the desired material softness is required. Preferably,
however, the stiffening member is annealed at two different places, each place being
adjacent the end of one of the legs of the member. The location of the annealed por-
. tion of the wire may vary depending upon the size of the wire and the particular
garment in which it is to be utilized. In general terms, the wire would be annealed
at a position ranging from the end of each leg to a distance of 10,16 cm (4 inches)
from the end of the leg. In the most preferred embodiment, the stiffening member or
frame would be annealed at a position ranging between 0,635 cm (1/4") to 2,54 (1 inch)
from the end of the leg and a distance of 1.27 cm (1/2") has been found to be very
suitable.
[0014] The length of the annealed portion can also vary according to the requirements of
the designer. Thus, a very small portion, typically 0,318 cm (1/8") to 1.905 cm (3/4")
in length, may be subjected to the annealing or alternatively, again depending on
the ultimate end use of the member, a larger length may be annealed.
[0015] Following the annealing, the annealed portion is desirably provided with a protective
coating or subjected to a further treatment to prevent oxidation of the metallic member.
[0016] The means of annealing the member may be chosen from among many well known to those
knowledgeable in the art. Thus, one may use various types of flames to anneal or alternatively,
an induction type of annealing could be utilized. One attractive alternative is to
utilize high intensity infrared line heaters. These heaters generate highly concentrated
radiant heat flux density along a thin line at the external focal axis of an elliptical
reflector. Such heaters produce rapid heating rates and high temperatures which can
be focused very precisely at the desired location. The specific time and temperature
will again be a choice which can be made by those knowledgeable in the art; typically,
the spring wire to be used in a brassiere wire would be heated to a temperature of
above 1600°F and air cooled. The specific temperature and time of treatment can be
varied as is well known by those skilled in the art in order to achieve the desired
result. This annealing treatment will substantially reduce the hardness of the material;
again, it is well within the knowledge of those skilled in the art to vary the hardness
to achieve the results desired for a partpcular required design of brassiere wire.
[0017] Having thus generally described the invention, reference will be made to the accompanying
drawings illustrating an embodiment thereof, in which:-
Figure 1 is a plan view of a typical brassiere wire according to the present invention;
and
Figure 2 is a sectional view taken along the lines 2-2 of Figure 1.
[0018] Referring to the drawings in greater detail, there is illustrated in Figure 1 a typical
stiffening member 10 which is suitable for use in a brassiere. Member 10 has a generally
U-shaped configuration with two leg portions which are designated by reference numerals
12 and 14. Adjacent the free end of legs 12 and 14, the material is subjected to an
annealing operation as designated by reference numeral 16. This annealing operation
at the point 16 renders this point "softer" and permits movement of the free ends
as shown by arrow 18. Subsequent to the annealing operation, a protective coating
20 is provided; protective coating 20 may be of a suitable material, typically a latex
material.
[0019] The method for forming the stiffening member is well understood by those knowledgeable
in the art. Thus, a roll of a suitable continuous spring wire material is supplied.
This material has normally been subjected to annealing and tempering treatments as
is conventional in the art. The wire material is cut to a suitable length and formed
into the U-shaped members such as shown in Figure 1. Subsequent to the forming of
the material into the individual U-shaped stiffening members, the legs are subjected
to the annealing treatment to soften the desired portion. Subsequently, the protective
coating is applied to the ends of the stiffening members or wires.
1. A brassiere comprising a stiffening member wherein the stiffening member is formed
of a metallic spring wire material and has a generally U-shaped configuration characterized
in that a portion of said member has been annealed to thereby soften said portion.
2. A brassiere according to Claim 1, characterized in that said U-shaped member has
a pair of legs, each of said legs having a portion thereof which has been annealed.
3. A brassiere according to Claim 1 or 2 characterized in that said annealed portion
is provided with a protective coating.
4. A brassiere according to Claim 2 characterized in that said annealed portion is
spaced a distance of between 1/4" to about 1" from the end of said legs.
5. A method of treating a stiffening member for use in a brassiere, characterized
in that the method comprises a step of annealing a portion of said member to thereby
render said portion softer.
6. A method of treating a stiffening member used in a brassiere wherein said stiffening
member has a generally U-shaped configuration, characterized in that the method comprises
the steps of supplying a continuous length of wire which has been annealed and tempered,
cutting and forming said continuous length of wire into U-shaped members having a
pair of legs, subjecting at least a portion of each said pair of legs to an annealing
treatment to soften said portion, and subsequently applying a protective coating to
said annealed sections.
7. The method of Claim 6 characterized in that the step of subjecting said legs to
an annealing treatment comprises the step of subjecting a length of between 0.381
cm (1/8") to 1.905 cm (3/ 4") to said annealing treatment, said portion being spaced
a distance of between 0.635 cm (1/4") and 2.54 cm (1") from the end of the legs.
8. A stiffening member made by a method according to any one of Claims 5, 6 and 7.
9. A brassiere comprising a stiffening member according to any one of Claims 1 to
4 and 8.
1. Büstenhalter mit einem Versteifungsglied, in welchem das Versteifungsglied aus
einem metallischen Federdrahtmaterial geformt ist und eine im allgemeinen U-förmige
Konfiguration aufweist, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß ein Teil des Gliedes weichgeglüht
worden ist, um dadurch diesen Teil weich zu machen.
2. Büstenhalter nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das U-förmige Glied ein
Paar von Schenkeln aufweist, wobei jeder Schenkel ein Teil umfaßt, der weichgeglüht
worden ist.
3. Büstenhalter nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der weichgeglühte
Teil mit einer Schutzbeschichtung vorgesehen ist.
4. Büstenhalter nach Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der weichgeglühte Teil
um eine Distanz zwischen 0,6 mm und etwa 2,5 cm (1/ 4" bis 1") von dem Ende der Schenkel
mit Abstand angeordnet ist.
5. Verfahren zur Behandlung eines Versteifungsgliedes für eine Benutzung in einem
Büstenhalter, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Verfahren einen Schritt des Anglühens
bzw. Weichglühens eines Teils des Gliedes umfaßt, um dadurch den Teil weicher zu machen.
6. Verfahren zur Behandlung eines in einem Büstenhalter benutzten Versteifungsgliedes,
wobei das Versteifungsglied eine im allgemeinen U-förmige Konfiguration aufweist,
dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Verfähren die Schritte umfaßt, eine kontinuierliche
Länge von Draht, der angeglüht bzw. weichgeglüht und getempert worden ist, zuzuführen,
die kontinuierliche Drahtlänge zu schneiden und in U-förmige Glieder mit einem Paar
von Schenkeln zu formen, zumindest einen Teil jedes Paares der Schenkel einer Weichglühbehandlung
zu unterwerfen, um den Teil weicher zu machen, und nachfolgend eine Schutzbeschichtung
auf die weichgeglühten Abschnitte aufzubringen.
7. Verfahren nach Anspruch 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß das Schritt, die Schenkel
einer Weichglühbehandlung zu unterwerfen den Schritt umfaßt, eine Länge zwischen 0,3
cm (1/8") und 1,9 cm (3/4") der Weichglühbehandlung zu unterwerfen, wobei der Teil
um eine Distanz zwischen 0,6 cm (1/4") und 2,5 cm (1") von dem Ende der Schenkel entfernt
ist.
8. Versteifungsglied hergestellt mit einem Verfahren gemäß einem der Ansprüche 5,
6 und 7.
9. Büstenhalter mit einem Versteifungsglied nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4 und 8.
1. Soutien-gorge comprenant une armature, dans lequel l'armature est formée d'un fil
élastique métallique et a une configuration sensiblement en forme de U, caractérisé
en ce qu'une partie de ladite armature a été recuite afin de rendre plus tendre ladite
partie.
2. Soutien-gorge suivant la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que ladite armature
en U comprend deux branches, chacune desdites branches comportant une partie qui a
été recuite.
3. Soutien-gorge suivant la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisé en ce que ladite partie
recuite est pourvue d'un revêtement de protection.
4. Soutien-gorge suivant la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que ladite partie recuite
est située à une distance comprise entre 6 mm et 25 mm environ de l'extrémite desdites
branches.
5. Méthode de traitement d'une armature utilisable selon un soutien-gorge, caractérisée
en ce que la méthode comprend une opération de recuit d'une partie de ladite armature
afin de rendre ladite partie plus tendre.
6. Méthode de traitement d'une armature utilisée dans un soutien-gorge, dans lequel
ladite armature a une configuration sensiblement en forme de U, caractérisée en ce
que la méthode comprend les opérations de fourniture d'une longueur continue de fil
qui a été recuit et trempé, de coupe et de formage de ladite longueur continue de
fil en armatures en forme de U comportant deux branches, de soumission d'au moins
une partie de chacune desdites deux branches à un traitement de recuit afin de rendre
plus tendre ladite partie, et d'application subséquente d'un revêtement protecteur
auxdites parties recuites.
7. Méthode suivant la revendication 6, caractérisé en ce que l'opération de soumission
desdites branches à un traitement de recuit comprend l'opération de soumission d'une
longueur de 0,318 cm à 1,905 cm audit traitement de recuit, ladite partie étant espacée
d'une distance comprise entre 0,635 cm et 254 cm de l'extrémité des branches.
8. Armature fabriquée par une méthode suivant l'une quelconque des revendications
5, 6 et 7.
9. Soutien-gorge comprenant une armature suivant l'une quelconque des revendications
1 à 4 et 8.
