| (19) |
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(11) |
EP 0 315 725 A1 |
| (12) |
EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION |
| (43) |
Date of publication: |
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17.05.1989 Bulletin 1989/20 |
| (22) |
Date of filing: 11.11.1987 |
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| (84) |
Designated Contracting States: |
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DE ES FR GB GR IT |
| (71) |
Applicant: SILLI, Alessandro |
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I-50047 PRATO (Firenze) (IT) |
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| (72) |
Inventor: |
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- SILLI, Alessandro
I-50047 PRATO (Firenze) (IT)
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| (74) |
Representative: Pederzini, Paolo |
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c/o BUGNION S.p.A.
Via dei Mille, 19 40121 Bologna 40121 Bologna (IT) |
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Remarks: |
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The title of the invention has been amended (Guidelines for Examination in the EPO,
A-III, 7.3). |
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| (54) |
Method of dyeing woollen fabrics and items of clothing to produce a shot effect |
(57) Woollen material is laid into a dyeing tank with depurated water and glue, with
addition of pigment diluted with a dispersing product. The bath is cooled, the dyed
material is rinsed and put again into clean water with elastomere which acts as a
dyeing binder, and some catalyst is added for fixing; the material is rinsed and centrifugated.
At last the material is dried or rinsed with addition of a softener. The said treatment
causes the sedimentation of the pigment small powder on the bottom of the piece mantle,
thus carrying out an opaque ground colouring. This one imparts a particular surface
brilliancy to the emerging part of the mantle from which the fine dust has been removed.
[0001] The invention refers to a colouring treatment for clothing pieces in wool and mixed
whool which, as as principle, carries out a mantle with changing sight perception
that is determinated by a brilliant emerging part on an opaque colouring ground.
The said colouring effect carries out a new conception mantle characterized by continuous
tonal changes in accordance with the different observation angle, which is due to
the depth colouring effect and by the hue of the emerging part from which the dye
has been removed. The said depth colouring effect causes on the surface a down perception
with brillanted whiteness and changing intensity according to the observation angle
of the part. The treatment enables a sight perception of a soft mantle with close
out hair given by the emerging part which gets varying brilliant tones on the colouring
bottom. The tonal changes determined by the two parts, if shavingly observed, give
rise to reflection effects of the light rays which cause brightness effects, increasing
the incidence angle, in the perception of the deep colouring with the absorption of
the light rays through the presence of the emerging part which acts as a filter. A
particular sight and tactile preciousness of the material thus turns out which opens
a new canal in the wool and mixed wool dressing sector.
[0002] Essential characteristic feature of the treatment, in a preliminar way, consists
in carrying out the dyeing operation of the dressing piece without fixing it in order
to then cause the pigmentation spray on the mantel bottom, whereas the surface part
takes again the original dye and, in particular, a dyeing tending to the neutral
one.
[0003] Substantially, for the treatment the material is laid in the dyeing tank with depurated
water and glue, and with addition of pigment diluted with dispersing product. After
having carried out a not-fixed hue of the pieces, the bath is cooled down, the dyed
material is rinsed and put again into clean water with addition of elastomere which
acts as a dyeing binder. Some catalizator is then added for fixing, then the piece
is rinsed and centrifugated. At last, the material is dried and rinsed with addition
af softener. The tratment causes the sedimentation of the very fine pigment dust on
the bottom of the piece mantle bottom, carrying out a depth opaque colouring. The
said colouring gives a particular surface brilliancy to the emerging part of the
mantle from which the above dust has been removed. During the treatment, a first operation
phase performs dyeing without fixing the piece, which is at first dry-washed and
then put into the dyeing tank with depurated water at the rate of 1 to 40 (40 litres
of water and 1 Kg. of material), by adding a 10% of a gluey product, by acting with
a rotating unit which turns during 30′ at a temperature of 50°C. The dye is then added
which consists of a pigment diluted with a dispersing product, and the machine turns
during other 60′ at 95°C. temperature. In the second phase the dyeing bath is cooled
down to 50°C., and the dyed material is rinsed. This one is again put into clean water
with added elastomere (polyvinical resin which acts as a dyeing binder) in a 10%
rate. A 1% catalizator is now added to fix the above resin, and the unit goes on with
its cold movemnt during 30′. The material is then rinsed, centrifugated, and the piece
is wholly dried at 140°C. At last it is again rinsed in clean water with addition
of a softener in order to obtain a finished piece with a softer mantle.
[0004] The treatment can be carried out on finished pieces, on working ones, as well as
on material at the origin.
[0005] The execution particulars, the integrators and anyting else in this connection may
be used in different ways according to the employ requirements.
1) Changing colouring treatment for woolen and mixed wool clothing pieces, characterized
by the fact that a first operation phase carries out dyeing without fixing the piece,
which is first dry-washed and then put into a dyeing tank with depurated water at
a rate of 1 to 40, with addition of the 10% of a glueing product while the unit is
turning during 30′ at 50°C. The dyeing material is then added which consists of a
pigment diluted with a dispersing product, and the machine turns for other 60′ at
98 C. In the second phase, the dyeing bath is cooled down to 50°C. and the dyed material
is rinsed. This one is again laid into clean water to which 10% elastomere is added.
A 1% catalizator to fix the elastomere is added, and the machine works on cold during
30′. The material is then rinsed, centrifugated and thoroughly dried at 140°C. At
last it is rinsed again in clean water with addition of a softener to get a soft
finished piece.