[0001] The difficulties and problems involved in sewing flaps of leather together along
curved trajectories are well known. In particular the shoes commonly known as "moccasins"
generally consist of an upper, open or closed at the bottom, a superior part, called
vamp, which is designed to close the top of the upper, and other elements, well known
to the technicians in the sector, which have the function of completing the shoe.
[0002] The vamp is in fact fixed to the upper by sewing, carried out using well known machines.
[0003] The aforementioned machines for the infeed of leather flaps to be sewn together,
are fitted with devices which generally consist of a pair of feed plates, moving,
according to the leather infeed direction, with a periodic to and fro motion, and,
in an appropriate phase relationship, raised and lowered.
[0004] The feed plates, integral with a single supporting body, hold the leather from below
against the foot, or other known means, above, thus determining contemporary and intermittent
infeed of the upper and the vamp.
[0005] It is known, however, that the flat path of the edges of the upper and the vamp which
must be united is curved.
[0006] There is obviously a difference in the trajectories which must be followed by the
edges of the upper and the vamp in the working area; in other words the trajectory
of the seam to be made is also curved.
[0007] This difference, in particular the trajectory of the upper is greater than that of
the vamp trajectory, is magnified by the fact that the feed plates are very close
to one another.
[0008] The feed plates pulling the upper and the vamp along successive tracts of the same
length, tend to cause a straight infeed of the two leather flaps.
[0009] As a consequence the operator must intervene manually, slowing down the infeed of
the vamp, to correct the sewing trajectory, with all the obvious problems that this
involves.
[0010] Devices have been created which, fitted to these machines, automatically produce
a curved seam.
[0011] The known devices, in fact, have two separate infeed plates which move autonomously,
so that the infeed plate corresponding to the vamp has a shorter travel than that
of the other feed plate.
[0012] However the complicated construction which characterizes the aforementioned devices
penalizes them reflecting negatively on production and maintenance costs.
[0013] The purpose of the present invention is that of creating a device which, while it
facilitates the sewing of curved seams is also simple and economical to produce, and
does not involve complicated and costly maintenance operations.
[0014] The constructive and operative simplicity of the device which is the subject of the
present invention is very clear; this simplicity is also accompanied by a functionality
and effectiveness which permits highly satisfactory results to be obtained.
[0015] Moreover the proposed device does not require the maintenance operations of the same
frequency, length and complexity as those required for the known devices, which involve
an autonomous movement of the feed plates.
[0016] It is therefore more than obvious the advantages which follow, as regards the production
costs, reliability and the subsequent maintenance costs.
[0017] The above purposes and advanteges are obtained through the device described in the
Claims and disclosed in the following description.
[0018] The characteristics of the invention not apparent from the above are in fact described
below, with reference to the attached drawings, in which:
- Fig. 1a and 1b illustrate an upper and a vamp respectively before and after the
sewing of the same;
- Fig. 2 illustrates in perspective and diagrammatically the device which is the subject
of the present invention;
- Fig. 3a and 3b illustrate the device which is the subject of the present invention,
seen from above, in two working positions;
- Fig. 4a and 4b provide side views of the device along the cross-sections I-I and
II-II in fig. 3a and 3b;
- Fig. 5 shows a detail of the device seen from along the cross-section III-III fig.
4b.
[0019] Fig. 1a illustrates an upper 1 and the relative vamp 2 which represent the two flaps
of leather to be sewn together.
[0020] Upper and vamp are used here only to provide an example, since the technical solution
which is the subject of this invention can be used anywhere that there is the need
to sew together flaps of leather along a curved trajectory.
[0021] As can be seen in the figure, the flat path of the edges 3 and 4 of the upper 1 and
the vamp 2, which must be sewn together, is curved.
[0022] The respective trajectories followed by the feed plates, indicated with 5 on the
upper and 6 on the vamp (fig. 1) are clearly different, and more precisely the first
is longer than the second.
[0023] Fig.2 illustrates a plate 10, within which the feed plates indicated with 13 and
14 must operate, moving inside the corresponding holes 11 and 12 in the same plate
10.
[0024] The fixed feed plate 13 is integral with a supporting element 9 irremovably fixed,
by known means not illustrated here, to driving means, which are also not shown here
since they are well known to the technicians in this sector.
[0025] The other feed plate 14, mobile with respect to element 9, is in fact linked to the
latter by means of a coupling which permits relative axial sliding between the mobile
feed plate 14 and the element 9.
[0026] As can be seen in particular in fig.4a, 4b and 5, a cylinder 16 is fixed by means
of a baffle 15 to the mobile feed plate 14, so that the cylinder is parallel with
the feed plate 14 and below the same; in the example illustrated here feed plate,
baffle and cylinder form a single body.
[0027] The cylinder is, in turn, fitted inside a corresponding cylindrical housing 25, in
the element 9, and parallel to the direction of horizontal movement of the feed plates.
[0028] The closed bottom of the housing 25 has a through hole 19, through which passes the
leg of a screw 17, which screws into the corresponding head of the cylinder 16.
[0029] Between the bottom of the housing 25 and the internal head of the cylinder 16 there
is a spring 18, which pushes the cylinder 16, and, hence, the feed plate 14 integral
with it, until the head of the screw 17, external to the bottom of the housing, rests
against the external border of the hole 19.
[0030] Between the two feed plates 13 and 14, there are stop means 20 fixed to the plate
10, of the known type, designed to prevent the raising of the upper and the vamp when
the feed plates rise.
[0031] In the example illustrated in fig. 2 the parts 20 consist of a blade 21 irremovably
fixed to the plate 10, by means of a screw 22, which is integral with a "T" element
23 under the wings of which the edges of the upper and the vamp to be sewn together
are inserted.
[0032] Once the edges of the upper 1 are inserted under the "T" element 23, and the upper
is placed over the fixed infeed plate 13, and those of the vamp 2, with the latter
placed over the mobile infeed plate 14, the machine is started up and the support
element 9 is cyclically moved, as indicated by the arrows and closed ring in fig.
2, first in as upwards direction S, which brings the teeth of the infeed plate against
the lower face of the upper and the vamp, then in a second forward direction A, pulling
the same upper and vamp forwards, then again in a downwards direction B, releasing
the upper and the vamp from the infeed plate, and finally in a backwards direction
R returning the feed plates to the starting point. At the same time, and with a suitable
phase relationship, the needle 24 moving cyclically downwards and upwards effects
the seam between the abovementioned edges.
[0033] When the seam takes on a curved trajectory, i.e. when the upper and vamp paths must
be differentiated, it is sufficient for the operator to exercise a slight contrast
to the vamp 2 infeed to achieve a shorter path for the latter.
[0034] That is naturally when the counteraction exercised by the stopping means 20 is not
sufficient on its own to curve the seam.
[0035] As illustrated in fig.3a and 3b, and in the corresponding fig.4a and 4b, when the
element 9 makes the upward movement in the S direction and starts the forward movement
in the A direction, the mobile feed plate 14 is moved forward until the screw 17 comes
to rest against the external border of the hole 19, and in the position corresponding
to the fixed feed plate 13 (fig.3a and 4a).
[0036] During the forward movement in the A direction of element 9, the feed plate 14 is
slowed down by the contrast exercised by the operator on the vamp (or, if sufficient,
by the stopping means 20) and, able to slide longitudinally with respect to the element
9, remains progressively further back as compared to the fixed feed plate 13, until
the spring 18 is completely compressed by the cylinder 17 against the bottom of the
housing 25 blocking any further movement of the cylinder 17 (fig.3b and 4b).
[0037] During the downwards movement in the B direction and the backwards movement in the
R direction, the elastic reaction of the spring 18 takes the mobile feed plate 14
back to the original position.
[0038] It is obvious that by adjusting the screw 17 it is possible to determine the initial
position of the mobile feed plate 14 with respect to the element 9, and thus vary
the difference in the travel with respect to the fixed infeed plate 13.
[0039] In particular it is possible to fix the mobile feed plate 14, by completely screwing
down the screw 17, to obtain an identical functioning as that of a machine with both
feed plates fixed for straight-line seams.
[0040] The maximum reverse position of the mobile feed plate 14 can also be determined by
some counter device other than that consisting of a completely compressed spring.
[0041] Finally the mobile feed plate 14 may be linked to element 9 by means of a system
other than that described here, provided that it allows the relative longitudinal
movements, as described above.
1) Perfected device for the infeed of flaps of leather in a machine for sewing the
same, the said device consisting of, among other things, two feed plates (13, 14)
moved in a cyclic phase, inside the corresponding holes (11, 12) in a plate (10) forming
a working surface, respectively in the directions upwards (S), forward (A), downwards
(B) and backwards (R), to effect in order the partial protrusion of said feed plates
(13, 14) from said holes (11, 12) and their engagement with the corresponding surfaces
of said flaps (1, 2) to be sewn arranged resting on said plate (10) and below the
stopping means (20), the infeed of said flaps (1, 2), the disengagement of said feed
plates (13, 14) from said flaps (1, 2) and the return to the original position of
said feed plates (13, 14); said device being characterized in that of said feed plates respectively fixed (13) and mobile (14), the first one is integral
with a supporting element (9) whereas the second one (14) is linked to the same supporting
element (9), with the possibility of sliding axially with respect to the latter, as
well as being subject to elastic means (18), to effect the sewing of said flaps (1,2)
along a curved trajectory by means of the progressive slowing down of the mobile feed
plate (14), with respect to said element (9) and fixed feed plate (13) occurring during
the movement in said forward direction (A) of the same feed plates (13, 14) and as
a consequence of a counteraction to the infeed of the corresponding flap (1), and
to effect the return to the original position of said mobile feed plate (14), as a
result of the reaction of said elastic means (18), during the movement of said feed
plates (13, 14) in the downward (B) and backward (R) directions.
2) Device as in claim 1 characterized in that said mobile feed plate (14) is linked to said supporting element (9) by means of
a cylinder (16), integral and parallel to it, inserted in a complementary housing
(25) in the said supporting element (9), the bottom of which has a through hole (19)
through which the leg of a screw (17) passes and screws into the corresponding head
of said cylinder (16); said elastic means (18) lying between the bottom of said housing
(25) and said head of said cylinder (16).
3) Device as in claim 1 characterized in that said supporting element (9) is itself moved in said directions upwards (S), forwards
(A), downwards (B) and backwards (R).
4) Device according to claim 2 characterized in that said cylinder (16) is fixed to said mobile feed plate (14) by means of a baffle (15).