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(11) | EP 0 352 418 A2 |
| (12) | EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION |
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| (54) | A basic pattern drawing formula for flexible collar tailoring |
| (57) A basic pattern drawing formula for flexible collar tailoring and more particularly
a pattern drawing method to measure neck girth (2) and neck base girth (1) for flexible
collar pattern drawing through a basic formula to automatically compensate body defects.
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BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a basic pattern drawing formula for flexible collar tailoring and more particularly, a new pattern drawing method to adopt new body measuring procedure for flexible tailoring to fit all kinds of body figures and to compensate body defects.
[0002] Regular body figure measuring procedure for pattern drawing is limited by its fixed and dull method which can not give prior compensation for body defects, may require alteration during fitting, will cause big loss during tailoring, is very time consuming and not applicable for mass production.
[0003] In view of above-said problems, the present invention is thus created to give an improvement.
[0004] The main object of the present invention is to provide an accurate body figure measuring procedure and a basic pattern drawing formula for flexible collar model tailoring to upgrade dress making quality, reduce the loss, increase productivity and profit. More particularly, through the present basic pattern drawing formula, the dress maker can flexibly make variation to fit for all kinds of body figures and to give a prior compensation for body defects such that the dress tailored according to present invention can provide a smooth, fitted and comfortable collar.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0005] The embodiment of the invention will now be described by way of example, reference being made to the accompanying drawings in which;
Figure 1 illustrates the measuring procedures according to the present invention for the sizes required for basic pattern drawing for flexible collar tailoring.
Figures 2, 3 and 4 illustrate pattern drawing procedures according to the present invention for lapel straight turning, lapel curved turning and for turtle neck.
Figures 5, 6, 7 and 8 illustrate the basic models of all collar patterns according to the present invention.
Figures 9 and 10 illustrate the basic models of upper body patterns according to Patent no. 7311244.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0006] Please refer to the measuring procedures for the sizes required according to the present invention for basic pattern drawing for collar tailoring as shown in Figure 1, wherein:
Neck base girth (1) [Figure 1] :
Neck girth (2) :
[0009] With the data obtained from above measurements, one can draw a variety of basic patterns for collar tailoring according to the formula described below.
[0010] Please refer to Figures 2, 9 and 10, the lapel straight turning pattern is to firstly determine the width of the band of the front closings at a proper position beyond the central line of the front piece and set the end point (1) of the collar leaf of the turn-over collar, set the neck side point (2) of the front piece as a point for collar opening, set a point (3) for collar band height at left-upper position according to collar style required and draw a straight line to connect points (3) (1); to draw an ideal collar on the front piece and set a point (4), to set a point (5) at the cross point between shoulder line of the front piece and the turning side line of the collar leaf, to make an alteration for a preferred collar style so as to obtain a point (6); to set three symmetrical points (7) (8) (9) against points (4) (5) (6) based upon the axial line of points (3) (1); to set a point (11) from the neck point (10) of the back piece at a distance equal to the collar band height of the length between points (2) and (3); to set a point (12) above shoulder line symmetrical to point (5); to set a point (13) at the back neck point of the back central line of the back piece and set a point (14) upward from the point (13) according to the collar band height of the length between points (10) and (11), then to set a point (15) downward from the point (14) at a distance equal to the intervals among points (10) (11) (12); to draw a curve line (16) to connect points (10) (13) as for back neck line; [the marks of (┌)(┐) designate the depth of the collar leaf at neck point side, the mark of (
) designates the depth of the collar leaf at neck back, the mark (=) of designates the side width of the collar leaf at the back, and the mark of (-) designates the size of the back neck opening]; to draw a curved line (17) to connect points (12) (15) as for the side width of the back collar leaf, according to the width between points (2) (3) downward in parallel to cross with the tangent line of the lower inclination of the lapel at a point (21) on the front piece and to set the point (21) as for the angle of the neck opening of the front piece; to set a point (22) according to the size between points (21) (2); to set a point (18) from the point (22) for connection with the back neck line (16) as a lower corner point for the back collar leaf; to set a point (19) from the point (8) for connection with the curved line of the side width of the back collar leaf as an upper corner point for the back collar leaf; to draw triangular lines in about 3cm within points (19) (18) according to the size of the back collar leaf between points (14) (13) (15) and to draw a curved line from point (19) to point (8) and another curved line from point (18) to point (22); the basic collar pattern of lapel straight turning style is thus completed. The above described pattern drawing formula for lapel straight turning style is characterized in that:
(A) According to the lapel and the crossed triangular V point (This triangular point is just on the central line of the front piece) and from the top to the lower portion along the turning line of the lapel up to the cross point with the side line of the front openings to determine the point (1) as for lapel lower end point.
(B) According to the depth of the collar band preferred to set a point (3) upward from the point (2) as for neck height, and then the lapel turning line can be continued.
(C) After determination of the triangular point (1) and the neck height point 2, collar pattern drawing can be continued according to the style preferred and marks can be made according to the cross point between the set line and the shoulder line.
(D) According to the neck height and the width of the collar leaf on the front piece to mark on the back piece at neck point and at back collar center correspondingly to figure out back collar opening with, back collar leaf width and back collar leaf side length.
(E) According to the sizes obtained from (D) to draw triangular marks on the upper and lower corners of the back center of the collar leaf, and then final connection lines for the present collar style can be completed.
(F) The matching edge of the front closings and the collar leaf lapel are determined: the width of the matching edge of the front closings at the turning line of the front neck opening should be wider than the button hole. The upper collar leaf lapel and the matching edge can be arranged together or be cut and seamed according to the style preferred. The seam line of the collar band can be adjusted upward or downward according to style preferred or be arranged in one piece, however the neck side point of the neck opening of the body piece should be properly maintained.
[0011] Please refer to Figures 3, 9 and 10, the basic collar pattern for lapel curved turning style is made to firstly determine the width of the band of the front closings at a proper position beyond the central line of the front piece and set the end point (1) of the collar leaf of the turn-over collar; to set the neck side point (2) of the front piece as a point for collar opening; to set a point (3) for collar band height at left-upper position and draw a curved line (4) according to collar style required to connect points (3) (1) as curved turning line for lapel; to set a point (6) on the body piece according to the collar style required and to get a point (6) at the cross point between the wider side of the collar leaf and the shoulder side line; along the turning line (4) upward from point (11) to the turn-over collar leaf to set a seam line (7) in a manner that the seam line (7) is not visible from outside and to obtain a cross point (8) with the collar leaf side line (5) and to set a point (9) symmetrical to point (8) on the outer side; to set a point (10) along seam line (7) inward from point (7) at a distance of about 2cm and then to set a point (11) outward from point (7) at same distance; to draw a curved line (12) approximately in parallel with the turning line (4) and to connect points (2) (10) and then to draw a curved line (13) through point (11) in size equal to and in parallel with the curved line (12); to set a point (14) outward from point (3) at a distance equal to the size between points (2) (3) and then to draw a collar bottom line in a size equal to points (2) (10); to set a point (16) on the back body piece upward from neck side point (15) at a distance equal to the collar band height of the size between points (2) (3), then to set a point (17) downward through points (16) (15) along shoulder line according to neck side collar leaf width of points (2) (3) (6) [as designated by the mark (┐)]; to set a point (19) upward from the back neck point (18) of the back central line of the back body piece according to the collar band height of points (15) (16) and then to set a point (20) downward from point (19) according to the size of points (15) (16) (17) as for back neck opening width [as designated by the mark of (-)]; to draw a suitable curved line (22) to connect points (17) (20) as for back collar leaf side width [as designated by the mark of (=)]; to draw a curved line upward from point (14) along the curved line (13) according to the size of the curved line (21) of the back neck opening width to obtain a point (23); to draw a curved line upward from point (6) along the curved line (5) according to the size of the curved line (22) of the back collar leaf side width to obtain a point (24) letting the interval between points (23) (24) be equal to the size of the back neck collar leaf width of points (18) (19) (20), and letting the sizes of (-) (┐) (=) be allocated on the upper and lower corners within points (23) (24), then to draw triangular lines in about 3cm, and to draw curved lines from point (23) toward point (14) and from point (24) toward point (6) to complete the basic collar pattern for curved turning style.
[0012] The above described pattern drawing formula for lapel curved turning style is characterized in that:
(A) According to the lapel and the crossed triangular V point (This triangular point is just on the central line of the front piece) and from the top to the lower portion along the turning line of the lapel up to the cross point with the side line of the front openings to determine the point (1) as for lapel lower end point.
(B) According to the depth of the collar band preferred to determine the protruding width from neck side and then to draw the turning line.
(C) After determination of the triangular point (1) and the neck height point (2), collar pattern drawing can be continued according to the style preferred and marks can be made according to the cross point between the set line and the shoulder line.
(D) According to the neck height and the width of the collar leaf on the front piece to mark on the back piece at neck point and at back collar center correspondingly to figure out back collar opening with, back collar leaf width and back collar leaf side length.
(E) According to the sizes obtained from (D) to draw triangular marks on the upper and lower corners of the back center of the collar leaf, and then final connection lines for the present collar style can be completed.
(F) Collar leaf lapel can be determined to turn the collar leaf side line (8) to match with the point (9).
[0013] Please refer to Figures 4, 9 and 10, the basic collar pattern for turtle neck style is made to firstly set the neck side point (1) of the front upper body piece as from neck opening point and then to set a point (2) outward from point (1) according to collar band height; to set the top point of the front central line as a point (3) and then to set a point (4) upward from point (3) according to the height of the style as for front central collar band height; to draw an outline (5) through point (4) according to the collar style preferred and then to set a cross point (6) between the shoulder line and the reverse line of the collar leaf at the neck side; to set a point (7) outward from point (4) according to the distance between points (3) (4); to set the neck side point (8) of the back body piece as for back side neck opening point, then to set a point (9) upward from point (8) according to the size of collar band height of points (1) (2) as for collar band height, and then to set a point (10) downward from point (9) through point (8) along shoulder line according to the size of points (1) (2) (6); points (8) (9) (10) to be for the side collar leaf total width [as designated with the marks of (┐) (┌)]; to set the back neck point of the back central line as point (11) and then set a point (12) upward from point (11) according to the collar band height of points (8) (9) and set a point (13) downward from point (12) according to the interval between points (9) (10); points (12) (13) to be for back center collar leaf total width [as designated with the mark of (
)]; to draw a curved line (14) to connect points (8) (11) as for back collar
width [as designated with the mark of (-)]; to draw a curved line (15) to connect points (10) (13) as for back collar leaf side width [as designated with the mark of (=); to set a point (16) from the point (7) according to the size of the front neck opening between points (1) (3) as collar band side point, then to set a point (17) from the point (16) according to the size of the back neck opening curved line (14); to set a point (18) from the point (6) according to the size of the collar leaf side curved line (15); to add a protruding curved line (19) between points (16) (7) for matching with front neck opening curved line; to mark triangular lines in about 3cm on the upper and lower corners within points (17) (18) according to the sizes obtained for back neck opening width, back center collar leaf total width and back collar leaf side length and then to draw a curved line from point (23) toward point (14) and another curved line from point (24) toward point (6) to complete the basic pattern for turtle neck style.
[0014] When to draw a collar pattern for turtle neck style, the collar should always be arranged with a size over the neck girth.
[0015] The above described collar pattern drawing formula for turtle neck style is characterized in that:
(A) During drawing procedure, it is firstly to determine collar band side point and front center and then to draw the turning line.
(B) After completion of the turning line, to draw on the body piece for the collar pattern preferred at the right-hand and left-hand sides of the neck opening and make marks accordingly.
(C) According to the marks made in (B) to make same marks on the back piece neck opening and measure for the back neck opening width, side and back center collar leaf width, and back collar leaf side length.
(D) According to the collar band height and the size of the front opening to make a copy on the opposite side and then to arrange the position for the upper and lower corner points according to the sizes obtained from (C) letting the upper and the lower corners be marked with triangular lines, then to modify the connection lines and to add a protruding curved line to the front collar base.
[0016] According to the basic pattern drawing formula as described in the above-mentioned embodiments, it will become easy to design for any style of collars. The dressmaker can be flexibly draw a pattern for collar tailoring by means of the present pattern drawing formula to meet the requirements for high productivity and low rate of loss so as to strengthen the competitive force and increase the profit in further production.
width ; to draw a curved line (15) to connect points (10) (13) as for back collar leaf side width ; to set a point (16) from the point (7) according to the size of the front neck opening between points (1) (3) as collar band side point, then to set a point (17) from the point (16) according to the size of the back neck opening curved line (14); to set a point (18) from the point (6) according to the size of the collar leaf side curved line (15); to add a protruding curved line (19) between points (16) (7) for matching with front neck opening curved line; to mark triangular lines in about 3cm on the upper and lower corners within points (17) (18) according to the sizes obtained for back neck opening width, back center collar leaf total width and back collar leaf side length and then to draw a curved line from point (23) toward point (14) and another curved line from point (24) toward point (6) to complete the basic pattern for turtle neck style.