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(11) |
EP 0 387 210 B1 |
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EUROPEAN PATENT SPECIFICATION |
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Mention of the grant of the patent: |
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30.08.1995 Bulletin 1995/35 |
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Date of filing: 01.03.1990 |
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Method for the formation of an article in the form of a pair of tights, that is to
say pantyhose, and article thus produced
Strumpfhose und Verfahren zu deren Herstellung
Collant et procédé pour sa fabrication
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Designated Contracting States: |
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AT BE CH DE DK ES FR GB GR LI NL SE |
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Priority: |
07.03.1989 IT 935989
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Date of publication of application: |
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12.09.1990 Bulletin 1990/37 |
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Proprietor: LAMBDA S.R.L. |
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I-50123 Firenze (IT) |
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Inventors: |
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- Conti, Paolo
I-50142 Firenze (IT)
- Gariboldi, Franco
I-10055 Condove,
Torino (IT)
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Representative: Mannucci, Gianfranco, Dott.-Ing. |
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Ufficio Tecnico Ing. A. Mannucci
Via della Scala 4 50123 Firenze 50123 Firenze (IT) |
| (56) |
References cited: :
EP-A- 0 172 145
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US-A- 4 697 440
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| Note: Within nine months from the publication of the mention of the grant of the European
patent, any person may give notice to the European Patent Office of opposition to
the European patent
granted. Notice of opposition shall be filed in a written reasoned statement. It shall
not be deemed to
have been filed until the opposition fee has been paid. (Art. 99(1) European Patent
Convention).
|
[0001] The invention relates to a knitting method including the following steps:
- initial formation, with needles of two spaced zones of needles, of two first closures
with at least one row of connecting stitches; formation of two tubular portions for
the legs of the tights with helical rows; at the end of the tubular portions of the
legs in a zone for the crutch of the tights between said two, spaced zones of needles,
the formation of at least one closure row;
- and subsequent formation of continuos helical rows of tubular fabric for the body
of the tights, with all the needles of said two zones and of the crutch zone.
[0002] Such a method is known from EP-A-0172145.
[0003] A first object of the invention is to improve this method for the formation of an
article in the form of a pair of tights (panty-hose).
[0004] This method could be carried out with a two-bar knitting machine, in which the two
rows of stitches are alternately and successively formed by opposite zones of needles
of the two bars, with one or two yarn feeds. With this method, the formation of a
virtually complete and fault-free article is obtained. The two bars are advantageously
formed by a cylinder and by a plate or disc, in a knitting machine of circular type
such as that disclosed in another simultaneous application by the same 15 applicant
(IT Pat.1233164, IT Appl.N.9357 A/89; EP Appl. 0387.709)
[0005] According to the invention, during the closure of the crutch, at least two contiguous
needles which were previously active in forming the tubular portions of the legs are
also crossed at each end of the crutch zone, in order to reduce and even eliminate
the formation of eyelets at the ends of the closure zone of the crutch.
[0006] Others advantageous features are defined in dependent Claims.
[0007] A further object of the invention is to provide a garment in the form of a pair of
tights, that is to say panty-hose, as defined in independent claim 4.
[0008] The invention will be better understood by following the description and the attached
drawing, which shows a practical, non-limiting embodiment of said invention. In the
drawing:
Fig.1 shows an overall view of an article in the form of a pair of tights, according
to the invention.
Fig.2 shows an enlarged detail of the formation of a toe;
Fig.3 shows a detail of the formation of the article at the level of the closure zone
of the crutch;
Fig.4 is an analogous to Fig.3, but shows the arrangement in accordance with an improvement
to the structure shown in Fig.3;
Fig.5 shows the development of the article during the formation of the body, after
the phase shown in Fig.4;
Fig.6 shows a local section to illustrate the path of the crossed needles for the
closure of the toe and the crutch zone;
Figs.7 and 8 show a view of the finished article from below, with the legs spread
for a fuller view of the crutch zone, with two conformations of the closure in the
crutch zone;
Figs.9 and 10 show diagrammatically an article in the form of a pair of tights or
panty-hose, illustrating the longitudinal lines of stitches and the helical rows,
respectively;
Fig. 11 shows, analogously to Fig. 9, a modified conformation of the article; and
Fig. 12 shows the article being worn in an antero-posteria section.
[0009] In accordance with what is shown in the attached drawing, the line ACDB designates
the end profile of each of the toe ends of the article in the form of a pair of tights
or panty-hose. As can be seen in particular in Fig. 2, at the start of the formation
of each of the two tubular areas to constitute the legs, designated T in Fig. 1, at
least one row of connecting stitches is formed with the simultaneous activation of
needles of the two needle-bars with which the tubular article is being worked at the
level of each tubular area T of the legs; formation of this row or these few rows
of connecting stitches is brought about by crossing of the needles which are activated,
for example alternately on each bar and in a manner such as not to interfere with
the needles of the other bar; the attitude is clearly shown in Fig. 6, where 10 and
11 designate the two bars of needles 13 and 15 respectively, it being possible for
the two bars to be two circular bars; in particular with circular knitting machines
one of the bars, for example, the bar 11, is a cylindrical bar and the other 10 is
a discoidal bar. When the needles 15 are activated to grip the thread, they are raised
into the position 15A and are then lowered for the formation of the stitch; the needles
13 of the bar 10 are pushed outwards into position 13A in order to grip the thread
and then retract inwards for the formation of the stitch. When the needles have to
be activated on both bars, they are activated only partially, for example, with a
1:1 selection, in a manner such that the needles of one bar do not interfere with
the needles of the other bar at the crossing which takes place as shown in Figs. 6.
[0010] With the arrangement - which is known per se - of the crossed needles, at least one
connecting row is produced along the needle front for the formation of each of the
tubular areas of the legs, that is to say along the line ACDB in Fig. 2, which represents
the closure line of the toe. Immediately after, the formation of the tubular article
T begins with helical rows formed alternately on the two bars. Then a start is made
along a short intermediate part of the line ACDB, for example along the part CD, in
order to form alternately and successively - with the needles of the two bars - helical
rows Po which start with the dimensions of the front CD, then gradually increase with
alternating insertion of needles at one end and at the other of the active areas of
needles in the two bars, along the arcs from C to A and from D to B, in a manner such
as progressively to increase the dimensions of the helical rows Po up to the maximum
dimension between the ends A and B of the activated zone of needles, that is to say
up to the dimension P of the front of needles intended for the formation of the leg
T. This achieves, in each of the toes of the tubular legs T, a shaping of said toes
by virtue of the progressive insertion of needles from the initial zone CD up to the
complete zone AB for the formation of each of the tubular sections of the legs T.
[0011] Work then begins on forming the two tubular sections T for the total length of the
legs, or providing - after a certain portion of the tubular article is knitted - an
increase in the cross-sectional dimension of each of the legs (in addition to the
traditional, gradual increase of the length of the stitches), with the progressive
insertion of a number of needles at the inner end of each working zone of the needles,
starting for example from the points E and G indicated in Fig. 1. This results in
a progressive increase in the dimensions of the article, corresponding to the thigh
of the garment when worn. A working front is thus attained at the line KFHL; the zone
FH forms the so-called crutch zone, which has to be closed in order then to continue
with the formation of a single body zone Co, having a dimension corresponding to the
entire working front KFHL.
[0012] For the closure of the section Z between the two points F and H, that is to say for
the closure of the crutch, the needles of the two bars are controlled, in line with
this zone FH, as already indicated for the initial closing seam of the toes, with
crossing of the needles. A closure row is thus formed, with connecting stitches, in
the section FH, forming a closure line Z. After this, the entire front of needles
of each of the two opposed bars, included in the line KFHL, is activated in order
to form the body Co, which is then finished along a belt or seam indicated by MM and
NN; this belt, in a conventional manner, may be produced with a double tubular seam,
that is to say one of circular cross-section.
[0013] In order to actuate the rows of connecting stitches along the initial closure lines
ACDB of the toes and along the line F, H or F1, H1 of the crutch, with the crossed
needles 13 and 15 of the two bars 10 and 11, the following procedure can be adopted.
With a 1:1 selection, the needles 15 of the cylinder 11 are raised, no thread being
supplied. This having been done, the needles 13, selected 1:1 and offset relative
to the needles 15A which are kept raised, are progressively raised and lowered, and
at the same time the thread is fed and is gripped by the needles 13A in order to form
the stitches on the stem of the needles 15A which are kept raised. Subsequently, the
thread is fed to the needles 15A which are lowered in order to form a stitch. A further
row is then formed with the needles 13. This procedure can be repeated before formation
of the tubular fabric begins.
[0014] Using the method described hitherto, that is to say inserting needles of the two
bars in the section FH of the crutch along the front Z, with crossing thereof, but
this being limited to the section of needles comprised between those which have produced
the end part of the two tubes T for the legs, irregularities may form at the ends
of the section Z, as is clarified illustratively and diagrammatically in Fig. 7, as
a result of the formation of small open eyelets O at the ends of the section Z, and
hence in line with the above mentioned points F and H. In order to avoid this disadvantageous
formation of eyelets O, according to a particularly valuable aspect of the invention,
a front of needles is activated which is slightly greater than the abovementioned
front FH for the working with crossed needles, in a manner such that the formation
of the closure by means of the crossed needles is extended along a front F1-H1, indicated
in Fig. 4, which is slightly greater than the front FH. This increase in the front
can in fact be limited to a pair of needles, belonging to the two bars, which are
inserted on the outside of each of the two ends of the section FH, this pair of needles
belonging to the front of needles which has produced the corresponding tubular article
T. In practice there is no change in the end dimension of the tubular article T of
the leg, but this insertion of one or two pairs of needles on the outside of each
end of the section FH offers the advantage of reducing, even to the point of elimination,
the formation of those eyelets O shown in Fig. 7, which can represent a disadvantage
in the finished article. A closure as shown in Fig. 8 is thus obtained, which is an
improvement over that illustrated in Fig. 7.
[0015] The control of the needles in order to cross them, and with an alternation - on each
front - such as to avoid interference between them, may be obtained by any mode of
selection of the type which is known on knitting machines.
[0016] The article which is obtained is particularly well finished, with virtually no manual
intervention on the article away from the machine.
[0017] The article produced according to the invention possesses two tubular parts T of
the legs, having helical rows of stitches Po and P (Fig. 10) and having lines R1 of
stitches (Fig. 9) which extend longitudinally from the legs T into the body Co and
as far as the edge or belt MM-NN; the body Co is formed by continuous helical rows
of stitches P1 (Fig. 10); the lines of stitches of the body are formed by the extensions
of the lines R1 of stitches of the legs T, and in the central zone - both at the front
and at the back - by lines R2 of stitches (Fig. 9) which commence from a closure Z
along the section F-H as far as the edge MM-NN. The so-called crutch is formed by
a closure in the section Z along the line FH (or F1-H1) between the two legs; the
closure in the section Z is obtained with connecting stitches formed by the crossing
of the needles of the two bars with which are formed the lines R2 of stitches of the
tubular structure of the body Co. No longitudinal seam is provided on the body, nor
are there any seamed fabric inserts, such as the so-called gusset. The toes also possess
a closure ACDB obtained by means of connecting stitches formed by the crossing of
the needles of the zones of the two bars with which the tubular structures of the
two legs T are formed. There is therefore no seam provided in the toes, either.
[0018] The section between the points F and H in the crutch zone may be of variable length,
depending on the requirements for putting on the garment, and also on manufacturing
requirements; it extends transversely.
[0019] The tubular structures of the legs T may possess additional stitches in the rows
in the sections EF and GH (Figs. 1 and 11), and hence additional longitudinal lines
R3 of stitches (Fig. 11) which commence along the sections EF and GH, as a result
of bringing into operation needles at the inner ends of the working needle zones of
the two bars during the formation of the legs T; these additional longitudinal lines
R3 also extend up the body as far as the edge MM-NN.
1. A method for the formation of an article in the form of a pair of tights (panty-hose)
on two-bar knitting machines, in which the rows of stitches are alternately and successively
formed by opposite zones of needles of the two bars, with one or two yarn feeds, comprising
the stages of: initial formation, with needles of two spaced zones of needles, of
two first closures with at least one row of connecting stitches (ACDB); formation
of two tubular portions (T) for the legs of the tights with helical rows; at the end
of the tubular portions of the legs in a zone for the crutch of the tights between
said two, spaced zones of needles, the formation of at least one closure row (Z);
and subsequent formation of continuos helical rows of tubular fabric for the body
of the tights, with all the needles of said two zones and of the crutch zone, characterized
in that during the formation of the closure row (Z) of the crutch, at least two contiguous
needles which were previously active in forming the tubular portions of the legs (T)
are also crossed at each end (F-H) of the closure row, in order to reduce and even
eliminate the formation of eyelets at the ends of the closure zone of the crutch.
2. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein, after the formation of said at least one
row of connecting stitches (A C D B) for the two first closures, there are formed
helical rows of stitches (Po) of gradually increasing dimension, in order to form
shaped toes before starting the formation of the tubular portions (T) of the legs
3. The method as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein, after partial formation of the tubular
portions (T) of the legs, needles are progressively inserted in each of the two needles
zones (E-F; G-H) from the end nearest the other one of said zones, in order gradually
to increase the size of the cross-section of said tubular portions (T).
4. A garment in the form of panty-hose, that is to say tights, having two tubular parts
(T) for the legs with helical rows of stitches and a tubular part for the body, wherein:
lines (R1) of stitches in the legs (T) extend lengthwise from the legs (T) into the
body (Co), as far as to a belt-type edge (MM-NN); the body (Co) is formed by continuous
helical rows of stitches and by lines of stitches formed by the extensions of the
lines (R1) of stitches in the legs (T), and in a central zone - both at the front
and at the back - by lines (R2) of stitches which commence from a closure line (Z)
along a section (F-H) of a crutch zone as far as to the edge or belt (MM-NN); the
closure line (Z) is obtained by means of connecting stitches from which the lines
(R2) of stitches in the central zone of the body (Co) commence; characterized in that,
at each end (F, H) of the closure line (Z), additional connecting stitches are provided
at the end of at least two lines (R1) of stitches in the legs, which reduce and even
eliminate the presence of eyelets at the ends of the closure zone (Z) of the crutch.
5. The garment as claimed in claim 4, wherein a toe of each of the tubular parts of the
legs (T) is closed along a closure line (A-B) obtained by means of connecting stitches
from which the lines (R1) of stitches in the legs commence, and wherein in the toe,
helical rows of stitches gradually increase to reach the dimension of the tubular
part (T) of the leg.
6. The garment as claimed in claims 4 or 5, wherein the tubular parts of the legs (T)
comprise, in sections (EF; GH) adjacent to the crutch, additional stitches in the
rows, and hence additional longitudinal lines (R3) of stitches which commence along
said sections (EF; GH); these additional longitudinal lines (R3) likewise extending
into the body as far as to the belt (MM-NN).
1. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines Artikels in Form einer Strumpfhose an Doppelstrang-Strickmaschinen,
in welchen die Reihen Maschen abwechselnd und nacheinander durch gegenüberliegende
Nadelzonen der beiden Stränge mit einer oder zwei Garnzuführungen gebildet werden,
mit den Schritten:
anfängliche Bildung mit Nadeln von zwei, im Abstand befindlichen Nadelzonen von zwei
ersten Schließungen mit wenigstens einer Reihe von Schließmaschen (AC, DB); Bildung
von zwei schlauchförmigen Teilen (T) für die Beine der Strumpfhose mit schraubenförmigen
Reihen; Bildung von wenigstens einer Schließreihe (Z) am Ende der schlauchförmigen
Teile der Beine in einem Bereich für den Schritt der Strumpfhose zwischen den zwei
im Abstand befindlichen Nadelzonen, und nachfolgenden Bildung fortlaufender schraubenförmiger
Reihen des schlauchförmigen Gestricks für das Oberteil der Strumpfhose mit allen Nadeln
der zwei Zonen und des Schrittbereichs;
dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß während der Bildung der Schließreihe (Z) des Schritts wenigstens zwei benachbarte
Nadeln, die vorher beim Bilden der schlauchförmigen Teile der Beine (T) aktiv waren,
an jedem Ende (F-H) der Schließreihe gekreuzt werden, um die Bildung von Löchern an
den Enden der Schließreihe des Schritts zu reduzieren oder gar zu eliminieren.
2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, wobei
nach der Bildung der wenigstens einen Reihe der Schließmaschen (AC, DB) für die zwei
ersten Schließungen, schraubenförmige Maschenreihen (PO) mit graduell größer werdenden
Abmessungen gebildet werden, um vor dem Beginn der Herstellung der schlauchförmigen
Teile (T) der Beine eine geformte Spitze zu bilden.
3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, wobei
nach einer teilweisen Herstellung der schlauchförmigen Teile (T) der Beine in jede
der zwei Nadelzonen (E-F; G-H) fortschreitend Nadeln eingesetzt werden, und zwar ausgehend
von dem Ende, das am nächsten der anderen Zone liegt, um die Umfangsgröße der schlauchförmigen
Teile T graduell zu vergrößern.
4. Kleidungsstück in Form einer Strumpfhose mit zwei schlauchförmigen Teilen (T) für
die Beine mit schraubenförmigen Reihenmaschen und einem schlauchförmigen Teil für
den Körper, wobei:
in den Beinen (T) Maschenreihen (R1), die in Längsrichtung der Beine (T) bis in den
Oberteil (CO) der Hose bis zu einem bundartigen Abschluß (MM-NN) verlaufen; der Oberteil
(Co) gebildet wird durch fortlaufende schraubenförmige Maschenreihen und durch Maschenreihen,
die in Verlängerung der Maschenreihen (R1) in den Beinen (T) gebildet sind, und in
einem mittleren Bereich - sowohl vorne als auch hinten - durch Maschenreihen (R2),
die an einer Schließlinie (Z) entlang einem Abschnitt (F-H) eines Schrittbereiches
beginnend, bis zum Taillenabschluß oder Bund (MM-NN), verlaufen; wobei die Schließlinie
(Z) durch Verbinden der Maschen, von welchen die Maschenreihen (R2) im zentralen Bereich
des Oberteils (Co) ausgehen, gebildet ist,
dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß an jedem Ende (FH) der Schließlinie (Z) am Ende von wenigstens zwei Maschenreihen
(R1) in den Beinen zusätzliche Verbindungsmaschen vorgesehen sind, die die Anwesenheit
von Löchern an den Enden des Schließbereichs (Z) des Schrittes reduzieren oder sogar
eliminieren.
5. Kleidungsstück nach Anspruch 4, wobei
eine Spitze jedes schlauchförmigen Teils der Beine (T) entlang der Schließlinie (A-B)
geschlossen wird, die durch Schließmaschen erhalten wird, von welchen aus die Maschenreihen
(R1) in den Beinen beginnen, und wobei in der Spitze schraubenförmige Maschenreihen
graduell größer werden, um den Umfang des schlauchförmigen Teils (T) des Beins zu
erreichen.
6. Kleidungsstück nach Anspruch 4 oder 5, wobei
die schlauchförmigen Teile der Beine Abschnitte (EF; GH) im Bereich des Schrittes
aufweisen, die in den Reihen zusätzliche Maschen aufweisen und damit zusätzliche Maschenlängsreihen
(R3) aufweisen, die entlang der Abschnitte (EF; GH) beginnen, wobei diese zusätzlichen
Längsreihen (R3) sich ebenfalls in den Oberteil der Hose bis zum Bund (MM-NN) erstrecken.
1. Procédé pour la fabrication d'un article se présentant sous la forme d'une paire de
collants sur des métiers à tisser à deux barres, dans lesquels les rangées de boucles
sont formées alternativement et successivement par des zones opposées d'aiguilles
sur les deux barres, avec une ou deux alimentations de fil, comprenant les étapes
suivantes : formation initiale avec les aiguilles de deux zones espacées d'aiguilles,
de deux fermetures avec au moins une série de boucles de liaison (A C D B) ; formation
de deux portions tubulaires (T) pour les jambes des collants avec des rangées hélicoïdales
; à l'extrémité des portions tubulaires des jambes dans une zone pour l'entrejambe
des collants entre les deux zones espacées d'aiguilles, la formation d'au moins une
rangée de fermeture (Z) ; et la formation consécutive de rangées hélicoïdales continues
de tissu tubulaire pour le corps des collants, avec toutes les aiguilles des deux
zones et de la zone d'entrejambe, caractérisé en ce que pendant la formation de la
rangée de fermeture (Z) de l'entrejambe, au moins deux aiguilles contiguës qui servaient
précédemment à former les portions tubulaires des jambes (T) sont également croisées
à chaque extrémité (F-H) de la rangée de fermeture pour réduire et même éliminer la
formation des oeillets sur les extrémités de la zone de fermeture de l'entrejambe.
2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, dans lequel après la formation d'au moins une rangée
de boucles de liaison (A C D B) pour les deux premières fermetures, sont formées les
rangées hélicoïdales de boucles (Po) de dimension progressivement croissante pour
former les parties d'orteil avant de commencer la formation des portions tubulaires
(T) des jambes.
3. Procédé selon la revendication 1 ou 2, dans lequel après la formation partielle des
portions tubulaires (T) des jambes, on introduit progressivement les aiguilles dans
chacune des deux zones d'aiguilles (E-F ; G-H) à partir de l'extrémité la plus proche
de l'une ou l'autre des zones, pour augmenter progressivement la taille de la section
transversale des portions tubulaires (T).
4. Article vestimentaire sous forme de collants présentant deux parties tubulaires (T)
pour les jambes avec des rangées hélicoïdales de boucles et une partie tubulaire pour
le corps, dans lequel : les lignes (R1) de boucles dans les jambes (T) s'étendent
longitudinalement à partir des jambes (T) jusque dans le corps (Co) pour atteindre
une lisière en forme de ceinture (MM-NN) ; le corps (Co) est formé par les rangées
hélicoïdales continues de boucles et par les lignes de boucles formées par les prolongements
des lignes (R1) des boucles dans les jambes (T) et dans une zone centrale - à la fois
à l'avant et à l'arrière - par les lignes (R2) des boucles qui commencent à partir
d'une ligne de fermeture (Z) le long d'une section (F-H) de la zone d'entrejambe jusqu'à
la lisière ou ceinture (MM-NN) ; la ligne de fermeture (Z) est obtenue à l'aide des
boucles de liaison à partir desquelles commencent les lignes (R2) des boucles dans
la zone centrale du corps (Co) ; caractérisé en ce que à chaque extrémité (F-H) de
la ligne de fermeture (Z) des boucles de liaison supplémentaires sont prévues sur
l'extrémité d'au moins deux lignes (R1) des boucles dans les jambes réduisant, voire
supprimant la présence d'oeillets aux extrémités de la zone de fermeture (Z) de l'entrejambe.
5. Produit vestimentaire selon la revendication 4, dans lequel une partie d'orteil de
chacune des parties tubulaires des jambes (T) est fermée le long d'une ligne de fermeture
(A-B) obtenue au moyen des boucles de liaison à partir desquelles commencent les lignes
(R1) des boucles dans les jambes, les rangées hélicoïdales des boucles augmentent
progressivement pour atteindre la dimension de la partie tubulaire (T) de la jambe.
6. Produit vestimentaire selon la revendication 4 ou 5, dans lequel les parties tubulaires
des jambes (T) comprennent dans les coupes (EF ; GH) contiguës à l'entrejambe, des
boucles supplémentaires dans les rangées et par conséquent les lignes longitudinales
supplémentaires (R3) de boucles qui commencent le long de ces sections (EF ; GH) ;
ces lignes longitudinales supplémentaires (R3) s'étendant également jusque dans la
partie de corps jusqu'à la ceinture (MM-NN).