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(11) | EP 0 496 930 A1 |
| (12) | EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION |
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| (54) | Method for joining a fur strip to base material and a guiding device for joining |
| (57) The invention relates to a method for connecting a fur strip to a base material and
a guiding device therefor. The invention is based on that fur strip is achieved to
go through the gap (1) the needles (2) being on both sides thereof and to keep the
strip skin essentially parallel with the base material in gap (1), so that the hairs
are in an upright position and that strip can be connected to the base material by
means of a sewing machine with two needles and three or four threads. The hairs of
the strip come to the fan type form after sewing. |
[0001] The object of the invention is a method for joining a fur strip to base material and a guiding device.
[0002] The FI publication print 61 719 describes a method for fabricating fur apparel according to which method a fur strip, lengthwise double-folded and with the fur side oriented outward, is joined to slits made into a contiguous base material. The FI patent 66 907 depicts in the main a case in which seam borders or hems projecting towards the seam side are formed in the base material and to which seam borders or hems the fur strip is attached by its edges by, for instance, sewing in the most advantageous manner employing an elastic stitch. One thing that these reference publications have in common is that modifications are made to the base material; e.g. it is compiled of several strips, it is gathered or slits are made in it before a fur strip is attached to the base material.
[0003] The methods described in the above mentioned reference publications are certainly appropriate for the purpose of preventing the fur from protruding onto the other side. Nevertheless, as is pointed out in the above, the said methods require various modifications to be done to the base material, and these are costly, time consuming and require several work stages. Additionally, the fur strip has to be double-folded to enable it to be sewn. Additionally, the execution of the stitchings requires various stages in advantageous conditions.
[0004] Additionally, structures of the above kind lead to waste of material such as the base material and strips of fur.
[0005] The method and device according to the invention make it possible to achieve a considerable improvement on the shortcomings mentioned above. In the realization of this, the method in accordance with the invention is characterized by what is presented in the characterization part of the claim 1 and the device according to the invention is characterized by what is presented in the characterization part of the claim 5.
[0006] That it is possible to leave out the folding of the fur strip and still be able to stitch with ease a piece of fur oriented to only one side of the base material may be considered to be the paramount advantage of the invention. The base material need not be gathered, cut into pieces or slitted prior to attaching the fur strips onto the base material. A fur strip can be easily attached to the base material in a curved or straight form. The sewing work is speeded up as the base material does not need to be cut and nor does the fur strip have to be folded. Both stitches are executed simultaneously. Several kinds of cloth materials can be used.
[0007] In the following, the invention is described in detail and reference is made to the appended drawing of which
Figure 1 depicts a schematic view of the guiding device tapering internally in the direction of feed from top;
Figure 2 depicts the guiding device as seen from the side;
Figure 3 depicts the guiding device as seen from the other side, and
Figures 4a, b and c depict the position of a fur strip prior, during and after the sewing stage.
[0008] It should be noted that these figures are not drawn to the same scale; they have been drawn so as to clarify the structure of the guiding device. Figure 1 is a schematic depiction of the guidance device tapering at its base and as seen from the side. In figure 1, the needles are indicated by reference number 2, the tapering parts by 5 and 6, the strips or notches connected to the tapering parts 5,6 are indicated by 7, these strips or notches providing support for the skin on the fur strip so that it remains straight when the hairs of the fur are compressed into gap 1. The vertical gap 1 has been left in the tapering parts 5, 6 between the needles 2 in the direction of motion of the base material, the width of this gap being equal to the narrowest part between the tapered parts 5, 6. The guiding device is attached to the sewing machine by means of supports 9 and 10. Needles 2 have been provided with holes 12. Next to the holes 12 there may be, for instance, curved semi-cylindrical spaces 4 to facilitate the unobstructed viewing of the operating of the needles 2.
[0009] An elongated trough 8, parallel with the direction of feed and advantageously upward inclined from the end of the tapering piece, is attached to that end of the tapering part 5, 6 which is the largest in width. The angle of attachment of the said trough is such that the skin remains essentially straight or at a comparatively appropriate angle in relation to its base. The trough 8 is advantageously considerably longer that the tapering parts 5, 6. Because of the tapering part, the hairs of the fur strip are pressed together and thus remain in the gap 1.
[0010] Sewing is executed using two needles and three and/or four threads of which one or alternatively two is/are the lower thread/s. When this manner of sewing is employed, the stitches are formed on either side of the fur strip but nearer to the edges of the strip than its centre. This causes the fur hairs to form an essentially fan-like Ω -shaped form on the base material following their attachment to it.
[0011] In figures 2 and 3, the guiding device is depicted schematically as seen from its opposite sides. Reference numbers 13 and 14 are used to depict the guiding device's means of attachment composed of various parts, the said attachment means being used to attach the parts. The sewing base, on which base material is moved, is marked by 11. Reference number 7 depicts the elongated strips which cause the skin on the fur base to remain straight prior to being forced into the gap 3. Reference number 3 thus points to the gap vertical in relation to the gap 1, the said vertical gap being advantageously equal in width to the width of the fur strip.
[0012] Figure 4a is a schematic presentation of the form of the fur strip hairs 20 in the trough 8 prior to sewing. The hairs 20 are pressed together and the stitches 22 are executed partly on top of the hairs on the edge of the strip. Figure 4c shows the form of the fur strip once the strip of fur has come out of the gaps 1 and 3 following sewing. When this has happened, the hairs of the strip 20, 21 attain essentially the shape of fan-like Ω -shaped form.
[0013] Skin, man-made fibre and even plastic can be used as the base material. It is necessary to emphasize that the feeding device can be mounted onto standard sewing machines with two needles. The adjustment of the threads to achieve an even sewing result is executed using selectors known in connection with sewing machines. The length and width of the trough can be modified in accordance with the base material and fur strips used. Otherwise, too, it should be pointed out that the present invention has been described with reference being made to only one of its advantageous implementation examples. This is in no way intended to restrict the application of the invention to this one example. Instead, many modifications are possible within the framework of the inventive idea defined by the following patent claims.
1. A method for attaching a fur strip to the base material using a sewing machine, characterized
in that the elongated fur strip (20, 21) is placed in the trough (8) of the guiding
device such that the hairs (20) are oriented away from the base material and the base
material is placed underneath the trough (8), the base material and the fur strip
(20, 21) are fed to two needles (2) adjacent to one another such that the hairs (20)
of the fur strip are pressed together in the tapering part (5, 6) of the guiding device
in order to fit into the elongated gap (1) on either side of which there is a needle
(2), and so that the fur skin (21) is kept essentially straigth so that the skin (21)
is made to pass through the gap (3) in perpendicular plane to the gap (1) for hairs
(20) and that the fur strip (20, 21) is attached to the base material by means of
stitches (22) executed essentially simultaneously on either edge of the fur strip
(20, 21).
2. A method as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the sewing machine is of the
three or four-thread type.
3. A method as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the gap (1) is essentially as
high or higher than the height of the hairs (20), and that the fur strip skin (21)
is advantageously narrower than the width of the gap (3) .
4. A method as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the hairs towards the edges
of the fur strip bend more than the hairs attached to the centre of the fur strip.
5. A guiding device for attaching the fur strip to the base material, characterized in
that the device is composed of an elongated trough (8) for supporting the hairs of
the fur strip (20, 21) in an upright position, a tapering part (5, 6) close to the
needles (2) for pressing the hairs of the fur strip together and for keeping them
pointing upwards, and a gap (1) parallel to the direction of feed and equal in width
to the narrowest part of the essentially tapering part (5, 6) following the tapering
part (5, 6) and located between the needles (2) such that the hairs of the fur strip
remain upright at least prior to stitching and during stitching, and lengthwise positioned
elongated notches (7), located inside the tapering part (5, 6) and elevated from the
base of the tapering part (5, 6) by an amount corresponding at least to the thickness
of the skin (21) and considerably lower than the remaining height of part (5, 6),
the purpose of the said notches being to make more acute the tapering at the base
of the hairs to keep the skin essentially straight so that the skin (20) will move
easily through the gap (3) in perpendicular plane to the gap (1) on its base part.
6. A device as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that the narrowest part of the tapering
part (5, 6) is narrower than the width of the skin (20) on the fur strip.
7. A device as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that the trough (8) is downward inclined
in the direction of feed.
8. A device as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that, after attaching of the guidance
device to sewing machine, the space left underneath the guiding device allows the
base material to move equally fast with the fur strip (20, 21).