Method for joining a fur strip to base material and a guiding device for joining

Description

[0001] The object of the invention is a method for joining a fur strip to base material and a guiding device.

[0002] The FI-A-61 719 describes a method for fabricating fur apparel according to which method a fur strip, lengthwise double-folded and with the fur side oriented outward, is joined to slits made into a contiguous base material. The FI-A-66 907 depicts in the main a case in which seam borders or hems projecting towards the seam side are formed in the base material and to which seam borders or hems the fur strip is attached by its edges by, for instance, sewing in the most advantageous manner employing an elastic stitch. One thing that these reference publications have in common is that modifications are made to the base material; e.g. it is compiled of several strips, it is gathered or slits are made in it before a fur strip is attached to the base material.

[0003] Such a guiding device is disclosed in the document DE-A-2 720 444.

[0004] The methods described in the above mentioned reference publications are certainly appropriate for the purpose of preventing the fur from protruding onto the other side. Nevertheless, as is pointed out in the above, the said methods require various modifications to be done to the base material, and these are costly, time consuming and require several work stages. Additionally, the fur strip has to be double-folded to enable it to be sewn. Additionally, the execution of the stitchings requires various stages in advantageous conditions.

[0005] Additionally, structures of the above kind lead to waste of material such as the base material and strips of fur.

[0006] The method and device according to the invention make it possible to achieve a considerable improvement on the shortcomings mentioned above. In the realization of this, the method in accordance with the invention is characterized by what is presented in the characterization part of the claim 1 and the device according to the invention is characterized by what is presented in the characterization part of the claim 5.

[0007] That it is possible to leave out the folding of the fur strip and still be able to stitch with ease a piece of fur oriented to only one side of the base material may be considered to be the paramount advantage of the invention. The base material need not be gathered, cut into pieces or slitted prior to attaching the fur strips onto the base material. A fur strip can be easily attached to the base material in a curved or straight form. The sewing work is speeded up as the base material does not need to be cut and nor does the fur strip have to be folded. Both stitches are executed simultaneously. Several kinds of cloth materials can be used. Other particular embodiments of the invention are set out in claims 2-4 and 6-8.

[0008] In the following, the invention is described in detail and reference is made to the appended drawing of which

Figure 1 depicts a schematic view of the guiding device tapering internally in the direction of feed from top;

Figure 2 depicts the guiding device as seen from the side;

Figure 3 depicts the guiding device as seen from the other side, and

Figures 4a, b and c depict the position of a fur strip prior, during and after the sewing stage.

[0009] It should be noted that these figures are not drawn to the same scale; they have been drawn so as to clarify the structure of the guiding device. Figure 1 is a schematic depiction of the guidance device tapering at its base and as seen from the side. In figure 1, the needles are indicated by reference number 2, the tapering parts by 5 and 6, the strips or notches connected to the tapering parts 5,6 are indicated by 7, these strips or notches providing support for the skin on the fur strip so that it remains straight when the hairs of the fur are compressed into gap 1. The vertical gap 1 has been left in the tapering parts 5, 6 between the needles 2 in the direction of motion of the base material, the width of this gap being equal to the narrowest part between the tapered parts 5, 6. The guiding device is attached to the sewing machine by means of supports 9 and 10. Needles 2 have been provided with holes 12. Next to the holes 12 there may be, for instance, curved semi-cylindrical spaces 4 to facilitate the unobstructed viewing of the operating of the needles 2.

[0010] An elongated trough 8, parallel with the direction of feed and advantageously upward inclined from the end of the tapering piece, is attached to that end of the tapering part 5, 6 which is the largest in width. The angle of attachment of the said trough is such that the skin remains essentially straight or at a comparatively appropriate angle in relation to its base. The trough 8 is advantageously considerably longer that the tapering parts 5, 6. Because of the tapering part, the hairs of the fur strip are pressed together and thus remain in the gap 1.

[0011] Sewing is executed using two needles and three and/or four threads of which one or alternatively two is/are the lower thread/s. When this manner of sewing is employed, the stitches are formed on either side of the fur strip but nearer to the edges of the strip than its centre. This causes the fur hairs to form an essentially fan-like Ω -shaped form on the base material following their attachment to it.

[0012] In figures 2 and 3, the guiding device is depicted schematically as seen from its opposite sides. Reference numbers 13 and 14 are used to depict the guiding device's means of attachment composed of various parts, the said attachment means being used to attach the parts. The sewing base, on which base material is moved, is marked by 11. Reference number 7 depicts the elongated strips which cause the skin on the fur base to remain straight prior to being forced into the gap 3. Reference number 3 thus points to the gap vertical in relation to the gap 1, the said vertical gap being advantageously equal in width to the width of the fur strip.

[0013] Figure 4a is a schematic presentation of the form of the fur strip hairs 20 in the trough 8 prior to sewing. The hairs 20 are pressed together and the stitches 22 are executed partly on top of the hairs on the edge of the strip. Figure 4c shows the form of the fur strip once the strip of fur has come out of the gaps 1 and 3 following sewing. When this has happened, the hairs of the strip 20, 21 attain essentially the shape of fan-like Ω -shaped form.

[0014] Skin, man-made fibre and even plastic can be used as the base material. It is necessary to emphasize that the feeding device can be mounted onto standard sewing machines with two needles. The adjustment of the threads to achieve an even sewing result is executed using selectors known in connection with sewing machines. The length and width of the trough can be modified in accordance with the base material and fur strips used. Otherwise, too, it should be pointed out that the present invention has been described with reference being made to only one of its advantageous implementation examples. This is in no way intended to restrict the application of the invention to this one example. Instead, many modifications are possible within the framework of the inventive idea defined by the following patent claims.

[0015] Reference signs in the claims are intended for better understanding and shall not limit the scope.

Claims

1. A method for attaching an elongated fur strip to a base material using a sewing machine, characterized in that the elongated fur strip (20, 21) is placed in a trough (8) of a guiding device such that hairs (20) of the fur strip are oriented away from the base material and the base material is placed underneath the trough (8), the base material and the fur strip (20, 21) are fed to two needles (2) of the sewing machine adjacent to one another such that the hairs (20) of the fur strip are pressed together in a tapering part (5, 6) of the guiding device in order to fit into an elongated gap (1) on either side of which there is a needle (2), and so that the fur skin (21) of the fur strip is kept essentially straigth so that the skin (21) is made to pass through a gap (3) in perpendicular plane to the gap (1) for hairs (20) and that the fur strip (20, 21) is attached to the base material by means of stitches (22) executed essentially simultaneously on either edge of the fur strip (20, 21).

2. A method as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the sewing machine is of the three or four-thread type.

3. A method as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the gap (1) is essentially as high or higher than the height of the hairs (20), and that the fur strip skin (21) is advantageously narrower than the width of the gap (3) .

4. A method as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that the hairs towards the edges of the fur strip bend more than the hairs attached to the centre of the fur strip.

5. A guiding device for attaching an elongated fur strip to a base material using a sewing machine, characterized in that the device is composed of an elongated trough (8) for supporting hairs of the fur strip (20, 21) in an upright position, a tapering part (5, 6) close to needles (2) of a sewing machine for pressing the hairs of the fur strip together and for keeping them pointing upwards, and a gap (1) parallel to the direction of feed and equal in width to the narrowest part of the essentially tapering part (5, 6) following the tapering part (5, 6) and located between the needles (2) such that the hairs of the fur strip remain upright at least prior to stitching and during stitching, and lengthwise positioned elongated notches (7), located inside the tapering part (5, 6) and elevated from the base of the tapering part (5, 6) by an amount corresponding at least to the thickness of the skin (21) of the fur strip and considerably lower than the remaining height of the tapering part (5, 6), the purpose of the said notches being to make more acute the tapering at the base of the hairs to keep the skin essentially straight so that the skin (21) will move easily through a gap (3) which is in perpendicular plane to the gap (1) for the hairs on its base part.

6. A device as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that the narrowest part of the tapering part (5, 6) is narrower than the width of the skin (20) on the fur strip.

7. A device as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that the trough (8) is downward inclined in the direction of feed.

8. A device as claimed in claim 5, characterized in that, after attaching of the guidance device to sewing machine, the space left underneath the guiding device allows the base material to move equally fast with the fur strip (20, 21).

Ansprüche

1. Verfahren zur Befestigung eines langgezogenen Pelzstreifens an ein Grundmaterial unter Verwendung einer Nähmaschine, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß
der langgezogene Pelzstreifen (20, 21) in eine Rinne (8) einer Führungsvorrichtung so eingesetzt wird, daß Haare (20) des Pelzstreifens vom Grundmaterial weggerichtet sind und das Grundmaterial unter die Rinne (8) plaziert wird, das Grundmaterial und der Pelzstreifen (20, 21) werden zwei Nadeln der Nähmaschine, die einander naheliegen, zugeführt, so daß die Haare (20) des Fellstreifens in einem sich verjüngendem Teil (5, 6) der
Führungsvorrichtung zusammengedrückt werden, um in einem langgezogenen Schlitz (1) auf jeder Seite, an der eine Nadel (2) ist, zu passen, und so daß die Pelzhaut (21) des Pelzstreifens im wesentlichen gerade gehalten wird, so daß die Haut (21) durch einem Schlitz (3) in senkrechter Ebene zum Schlitz (1) für Haare (20) hindurchtritt und daß der Pelzstreifen (20, 21) an das Grundmaterial durch Nähte (22) angeheftet wird, die im wesentlichen gleichzeitig auf beiden Kanten des Pelzstreifens (20, 21) ausgeführt werden.

2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Nähmaschine von einem Drei- oder Vierfadentyp ist.

3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Schlitz (1) im wesentlichen so hoch oder höher als die Höhe der Haare (20) ist, und daß die Haut (21) des Pelzstreifens vorteilhaft schmäler als die Weite des Schlitzes (3) ist.

4. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Haare nahe den Rändern des Pelzstreifens sich stärker biegen als die Haare, die in der Mitte des Pelzstreifens angebracht sind.

5. Führungsvorrichtung zur Befestigung eines Pelzstreifens an ein Grundmaterial unter Verwendung einer Nähmaschine,
dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß
die Vorrichtung sich zusammensetzt aus einer langgezogenen Rinne (8) zum Halten der Haare des Pelzstreifens (20, 21) in einer aufrechten Position, einem sich verjüngenden Teil (5, 6) nahe zu Nadeln (2) einer Nähmaschine zum Zusammendrücken der Haare des Fellsteifens und um sich nach oben zeigend zu halten, und einem Schlitz (1), der parallel zur Zufuhrrichtung und in seiner Weite gleich dem schmalsten Teil des im wesentlichen sich verjüngenden Teils (5, 6) folgend dem sich verjüngenden Teil (5, 6) ist und zwischen den Nadeln (2) so angeordnet ist, daß die Haare des Pelzstreifens zumindest vor dem Anheften und während des Anheftens aufrecht bleiben, und in Längsrichtung angeordnete langgezogene Nuten (7), die im Inneren des sich verjüngenden Teils (5, 6) angeordnet sind und sich von der Bodenfläche des sich verjüngenden Teils (5, 6) um einen Betrag erheben, der zumindest der Dicke der Haut (21) des Pelzstreifens entspricht und beträchtlich geringer als die verbleibende Höhe des sich verjüngenden Teils (5, 6) ist, wobei die Aufgabe der Nuten ist, das sich Verjüngen an der Unterseite der Haare spitzwinkliger zu machen, um die Haut im wesentlichen gerade zu halten, so daß sich die Haut (21) leicht durch einen Schlitz (3) bewegt, der in der senkrechten Ebene zum Schlitz (1) für die Haare ist.

6. Vorrichtung nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der schmalste Teil des sich verjüngenden Teils (5, 6) schmäler als die Dicke der Haut (20) des Fellstreifens ist.

7. Vorrichtung nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Rinne (8) in der Zufuhrrichtung nach unten geneigt ist.

8. Vorrichtung nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß nach dem Anheften der Führungsvorrichtung an die Nähmaschine der freie Raum, der unter der Führungsvorrichtung verbleibt, es dem Grundmaterial erlaubt, sich gleich schnell wie der Pelzstreifen (20, 21) zu bewegen.

Revendications

1. Procédé pour attacher, à l'aide d'une machine à coudre, une bande allongée de fourrure a un matériau de base caractérisé en ce que la bande allongée de fourrure (20, 21) est placée dans un canal (8) d'un dispositif de guidage, de telle sorte que les poils (20) de la bande de fourrure soient orientés du côté oppose au matériau de base, et en ce que le matériau de base est placé en dessous du canal (8), le matériau de base et la bande de fourrure (20, 21) étant avancés vers deux aiguilles (2) de la machine à coudre, contiguës l'une à l'autre, de telle sorte que les poils (20) de la bande de fourrure soient comprimées dans une partie en pointe (5, 6) du dispositif de guidage de manière à s'ajuster dans un interstice allongé (1), de part et d'autre duquel se trouve une aiguille (2), et de telle sorte que la peau (21) de la bande de fourrure soit maintenue essentiellement droite, de telle sorte que la peau (21) soit amenée à passer à travers un interstice (3) dans un plan perpendiculaire à l'interstice (1) pour poils (20), et que la bande de fourrure (20, 21) soit attachée au matériau de base au moyen de piqûres (22) réalisées essentiellement simultanément sur chaque bord de la bande de fourrure (20, 21).

2. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la machine à coudre est du type à trois ou à quatre fils.

3. Procedé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que l'interstice (1) est essentiellement aussi haut ou plus haut que la hauteur des poils (20), et en ce que la peau (21) de la bande de fourrure est avantageusement plus étroite que la largeur de l'interstice (3).

4. Procédé selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que les poils situés vers les bords de la bande de fourrure fléchissent davantage que les poils attachés au centre de la bande de fourrure.

5. Dispositif de guidage en vue d'attacher, à l'aide d'une machine à coudre, une bande de fourrure à un matériau de base, caractérisé en ce que le dispositif est composé d'un canal allongé (8) pour soutenir les poils de la bande de fourrure (20, 21) dans une position dressée, d'une partie en pointe (5, 6) proche des aiguilles (2) d'une machine à coudre, pour comprimer les poils de la bande de fourrure et pour les maintenir dressés vers le haut, et d'un interstice (1) suivant la partie en pointe (5, 6), parallèle à la direction d'avancement et de largeur égale à la partie la plus étroite de la partie (5, 6) essentiellement en pointe, et disposé entre les aiguilles (2) de telle sorte que les poils de la bande de fourrure restent dressés au moins avant le piquage et pendant le piquage, et d'entailles (7) allongées, situées à l'intérieur de la partie en pointe (5, 6) et surélevées par rapport à la base de la partie en pointe (5, 6) d'une valeur correspondant au moins à l'épaisseur de la peau (21) de la bande de fourrure, et beaucoup plus basses que le reste de la hauteur de la partie en pointe (5, 6), le but desdites entailles étant de rendre plus accentué la convergence des poils à la base, pour maintenir la peau essentiellement droite, de sorte que la peau (21) se déplace facilement à travers un interstice (3) qui est situé dans un plan perpendiculaire à la partie de base de l'interstice (1) pour les poils.

6. Dispositif selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que la partie la plus étroite de la partie en pointe (5, 6) est plus étroite que la largeur de la peau (20) de la bande de fourrure.

7. Dispositif selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce que le canal (8) est incline vers le bas dans la direction d'avancement.

8. Dispositif selon la revendication 5, caractérisé en ce qu'après avoir attaché le dispositif de guidage à une machine à coudre, l'espace laissé en dessous du dispositif de guidage permet au matériau de base de se déplacer à la même vitesse que la bande de fourrure (20, 21).

Drawing