(19)
(11) EP 0 520 124 A1

(12) EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION

(43) Date of publication:
30.12.1992 Bulletin 1992/53

(21) Application number: 91830286.0

(22) Date of filing: 26.06.1991
(51) International Patent Classification (IPC)5A44B 1/08, A44B 1/44
(84) Designated Contracting States:
AT BE CH DE FR GB IT LI LU NL SE

(71) Applicant: COBRA SrL
I-35020 Padova (IT)

(72) Inventor:
  • Candotti, Riccardo
    Padova (IT)

(74) Representative: Alagem Modiano, Lara S. et al
c/o Modiano & Associati S.r.l. Via Meravigli 16
20123 Milano
20123 Milano (IT)


(56) References cited: : 
   
       


    (54) Turning-rocking button for clothing


    (57) A mobile articulated head is employed on a knuckle having a mushroom shape, consisting of a roof (1) retaining a step cavity (5) in a retractable bending border, with an interposed tablet (2) in central collation seat (3) of the mushroom (4). The cavity (5) has a lower cylindrical form with collar (8), within the which the mushroom stem (9) can slide. The head components, the preliminary body (10) for the mushroom formation, as well as the spinned nail (12) and its base (13) can be obtained by means of pressing. A weakening treatment on an intermediate band of the preliminary body (10) and rolling give rise to an initial expansion of the same body upper part. The four components are riveted which compose the mobile part and the mushroom, while the nail (12) is assembled to its base (13). The preliminary body is further expanded on its head, thus determining the cap (4) of the mushroom and the inside nail crushing chamber. To the mobile part, three movements are allowed: a swinging one on the head (4), a turning motion around its stem (9) and a transfer movement between the counterposed beating crowns, i.e. the one of the hat (7) and the other (11) for the stem stabilization on the tissue.




    Description


    [0001] The invention refers to a device with mobile foot which mainly foresees a reduction and compacting of the outside encumbering parts, and particularly a joint articulation which allows the automatic deposition of the button with the conventional equipments and fixed foot for buttons; furthermore a simplification is possible because a joint assembly with only four parts is performed. The invention device ensures resistance against the acids which are present in the colouring and fading treatment of the dress units on which such buttons usually are fitted. A shaping of the fixing foot and of the nail cap inside to rivet is foreseen which gives rise to a solidarily working condition of binding to the cloth engaging it within a wide anchoring perimeter. This increases the resistance to jerks. The selfdrilling action by means of insertion of the nail within the wefts is thus granted, as well as the elastic fixation through one or more layers of tissue; this enables to suit manufacturing and to avoid the necessity of preliminary drilling the tissue and weakening it due to the weft break. Furthermore, the invention facilitates buttoning by means of a slant angle between 30° and 40° as well as a ready and regular oscillation of the head on the articulation fixed foot.

    [0002] The turning-basculating buttons are currently employed particularly in dress pieces of the jeans and casual types, and in the case of coarse and rather stiff as well as thick tissues, they allow an easy buttoning. A German type employs a head with stem bearing an articulation body within the groove of the fixed foot; this requires a large space for operation and particular centering precision for the button setting. Another type, still of German manufacture, requires a large bore in the cloth and operates on a wide leaning base; its laying is then allowed by an eyelet which is opened against a shaped tablet which seals the cloth. A third, an Italian manufacture type, requires a wide laying base with tie determined by a part with spring which penetrates into counterposed riveting tongs of the fixed foot and shows an articulated head on an articulation body borne by the stem. These present types of buttons with mobile foot cannot be fitted by means of automatic machinery and with the conventional punches owing to the projections of the stem on the fixed part. Consequently, these buttons can be fitted merely by means of preliminary and difficult centering and subsequent hand-operated riveting phases.

    [0003] The invention allows the integral solution of the problem by adopting a button consisting of a fixed part without projections on the stem. This grants an encumbering compatible with the one foreseen by the present machinery for buttons with fixed stem. The device employs a mobile head on the mushroom articulation and can be fitted by infixing and squeezing a nail, even of conventional type, to insert into the interposed tissue. The head consists of roof which retains a step cavity with interposed tablet having a central and lower collation seat of the mushroom hat the consent its easy rotation and, in the fitting phase of the button, to act as a base for nail riveting. The lower part of the cavity has a cylindrical shape with a collar in its ending crown, within which the mushroom stem can slide. The above collar, obtained by means of riveting, increases the retention effect to the binding condition. Three movements are allowed to the head: oscillation of the cap, rotation around the stem and translation between the counterposed beating crowns, the one of the hat, the running limit of which is on the collar inside relief, and the shaped other one for the stem stabilization on the cloth. For carrying out the device, the components are obtained by means of presswork from metal bands: the roof, the tablet, the cavity and a preliminary body of the mushroom formation, as well as the two components of the fitting means: the spinned nail and its anchoring base. A weakening (knurling) phase then follows on an intermediate band of the preliminary body, then its rolling is carried out with the stem already fitted into the cavity collar, which brings its higher part in initial expansion by means of riveting on the said semi-finished body. The parts of the button to fix are then assembled, while another machine assembles the two components of the spinned nail. The button is fitted with conventional punching machine with automatically fed pressing device. The nail is inserted into the wefts of the tissue, penetrates into the stem and, through the plate seal, is squeezed with shape deformation in the relevant chamber and riveted on the retention collar. This one carries out the solidary binding condition of the button on the tissue through its pressure containement between the nail base equipped with annular retention edge and the one of the mushroom also equipped with retention shape.

    [0004] An execution form, with components obtained from brass or other rolled material bands, is illustrated in the drawings of tables 1 and 2. With reference to these drawings, fig. 1 is the detached view, with axial location, of the four button components on a length of tissue and, below the tissue, of the spinned nail as well as of its base. Fig. 2 is the view of the same parts showing the articulated joint already carried out and below the fitting means already executed. In table 2, fig. 3 is the half-sectioned front view of the button with the mobile part at the upper running limit. Fig. 4 is the half-sectioned view of the same button after, its insertion into the cloth and riveted in the nail squeezing chamber. Fig. 5 is the view of the preceding drawing assembled parts with the mobile one resting on the mushroom base. Fig. 6 is the view of the same button according to the previous drawings, to be observed in the position of maximum right side oscillation, and,in dashed view, in the counterposed maximum swing.

    [0005] In version, the four button components are foreseen: the curved roof 1, tablet 2 with lower central collation seat 3 of hat 4, the step cavity 5 with lower cylindrical part 6, with lower crown 7 and central collar 8. In this central collar 8, the stem 9 of the articulation means is sliding which is formed by preliminary body 10 with shaped base 11 and the two components of the fixing means: the spinned nail 12 and its containment base 13. By means of knurling, the weakening operation is carried out on the intermediate band of body 10 already inserted into cavity 5, which brings its ending part in initial expansion. Riveting is the, carried out which performs a further expansion of the end part reaching hat 4. This one shows the squeezing chamber 14 with retention crown 15. The components 1 and 5 are then assembled with interposed tablet 2 forming the button head with inserted mushroom articulation body 15. Parts 12 and 13 are assembled in similar way forming the infixing means. The button is laid by riveting: nail 12 is inserted into the interposed tissue wefts 16, penetrates into the mushroom duct 17 and is squeezed with shape deformation into the same chamber 14, and is kept back on the crown 15 for granting a solidarily working binding condition. The stable condition is allowed by the containment of tissue 16 between the shaped bases: an inside one consisting of shaping border 18 on base 19 of nail 12, and the outer mushroom shaped one 11.

    [0006] In particular, conventional type nails can be used, as well as different composition forms and metal bands of different materials, such as iron, brass, steel, duraluminium or other.


    Claims

    1. Turning-basculating button for clothing, characterized by the fact that a mobile articulated head on a mushroom-shaped knickle mobile head is employed to fit by fixing and squeezing a nail to insert into the interposed tissue. The said head consists of a roof (1) which keeps a step cavity (5), in plying border with interposed tablet (2), with central and lower collation seat (3) of the mushroom cap to alow its easy rotation and, in the button fitting phase, to seal the nail riveting. In the cavity foreseen with collar (8), the mushroom stem (9) is sliding. After having performed the device components by means of pressing, a weakening operation is carried out on the intermediate face of the body (10), then after having already fitted the stem into the cavity collar, a rolling operation is carried out which brings the upper part to an initial expansion and to riveting. The parts of the button to fix are then assembled, while another machine aysembles the two nail components (12 and 13).
     
    2. Turning-basculating button for clothing, as per claim 1, characterized by the fact that the button is fitted by means of a punching machine with a small press or automatically fed press. The nail (12) is inserted into the tissue webs (16), penetrates into the duct (17) of the mushroom and, through the effect of the tablet seal, is squeezed with shape deformation in chamber (14) and riveted on the retention collar (15). The binding solidary condition of the button with the tissue is performed by pressure containment between the nail base (13) fitted with retainment annular border, and the mushroom base also fitted with retention shaping (11).
     
    3. Turning-basculating button for clothing, as per claim 1, characterized by the fact that three movements are allowed to the head: an oscillating one on the hat (4), a rotating movement around the stem (9), and a translation one between the counterposed beating crowns.
     




    Drawing










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