[0001] The invention refers to a device with mobile foot which mainly foresees a reduction
and compacting of the outside encumbering parts, and particularly a joint articulation
which allows the automatic deposition of the button with the conventional equipments
and fixed foot for buttons; furthermore a simplification is possible because a joint
assembly with only four parts is performed. The invention device ensures resistance
against the acids which are present in the colouring and fading treatment of the dress
units on which such buttons usually are fitted. A shaping of the fixing foot and of
the nail cap inside to rivet is foreseen which gives rise to a solidarily working
condition of binding to the cloth engaging it within a wide anchoring perimeter. This
increases the resistance to jerks. The selfdrilling action by means of insertion of
the nail within the wefts is thus granted, as well as the elastic fixation through
one or more layers of tissue; this enables to suit manufacturing and to avoid the
necessity of preliminary drilling the tissue and weakening it due to the weft break.
Furthermore, the invention facilitates buttoning by means of a slant angle between
30° and 40° as well as a ready and regular oscillation of the head on the articulation
fixed foot.
[0002] The turning-basculating buttons are currently employed particularly in dress pieces
of the jeans and casual types, and in the case of coarse and rather stiff as well
as thick tissues, they allow an easy buttoning. A German type employs a head with
stem bearing an articulation body within the groove of the fixed foot; this requires
a large space for operation and particular centering precision for the button setting.
Another type, still of German manufacture, requires a large bore in the cloth and
operates on a wide leaning base; its laying is then allowed by an eyelet which is
opened against a shaped tablet which seals the cloth. A third, an Italian manufacture
type, requires a wide laying base with tie determined by a part with spring which
penetrates into counterposed riveting tongs of the fixed foot and shows an articulated
head on an articulation body borne by the stem. These present types of buttons with
mobile foot cannot be fitted by means of automatic machinery and with the conventional
punches owing to the projections of the stem on the fixed part. Consequently, these
buttons can be fitted merely by means of preliminary and difficult centering and subsequent
hand-operated riveting phases.
[0003] The invention allows the integral solution of the problem by adopting a button consisting
of a fixed part without projections on the stem. This grants an encumbering compatible
with the one foreseen by the present machinery for buttons with fixed stem. The device
employs a mobile head on the mushroom articulation and can be fitted by infixing and
squeezing a nail, even of conventional type, to insert into the interposed tissue.
The head consists of roof which retains a step cavity with interposed tablet having
a central and lower collation seat of the mushroom hat the consent its easy rotation
and, in the fitting phase of the button, to act as a base for nail riveting. The lower
part of the cavity has a cylindrical shape with a collar in its ending crown, within
which the mushroom stem can slide. The above collar, obtained by means of riveting,
increases the retention effect to the binding condition. Three movements are allowed
to the head: oscillation of the cap, rotation around the stem and translation between
the counterposed beating crowns, the one of the hat, the running limit of which is
on the collar inside relief, and the shaped other one for the stem stabilization on
the cloth. For carrying out the device, the components are obtained by means of presswork
from metal bands: the roof, the tablet, the cavity and a preliminary body of the mushroom
formation, as well as the two components of the fitting means: the spinned nail and
its anchoring base. A weakening (knurling) phase then follows on an intermediate band
of the preliminary body, then its rolling is carried out with the stem already fitted
into the cavity collar, which brings its higher part in initial expansion by means
of riveting on the said semi-finished body. The parts of the button to fix are then
assembled, while another machine assembles the two components of the spinned nail.
The button is fitted with conventional punching machine with automatically fed pressing
device. The nail is inserted into the wefts of the tissue, penetrates into the stem
and, through the plate seal, is squeezed with shape deformation in the relevant chamber
and riveted on the retention collar. This one carries out the solidary binding condition
of the button on the tissue through its pressure containement between the nail base
equipped with annular retention edge and the one of the mushroom also equipped with
retention shape.
[0004] An execution form, with components obtained from brass or other rolled material bands,
is illustrated in the drawings of tables 1 and 2. With reference to these drawings,
fig. 1 is the detached view, with axial location, of the four button components on
a length of tissue and, below the tissue, of the spinned nail as well as of its base.
Fig. 2 is the view of the same parts showing the articulated joint already carried
out and below the fitting means already executed. In table 2, fig. 3 is the half-sectioned
front view of the button with the mobile part at the upper running limit. Fig. 4 is
the half-sectioned view of the same button after, its insertion into the cloth and
riveted in the nail squeezing chamber. Fig. 5 is the view of the preceding drawing
assembled parts with the mobile one resting on the mushroom base. Fig. 6 is the view
of the same button according to the previous drawings, to be observed in the position
of maximum right side oscillation, and,in dashed view, in the counterposed maximum
swing.
[0005] In version, the four button components are foreseen: the curved roof 1, tablet 2
with lower central collation seat 3 of hat 4, the step cavity 5 with lower cylindrical
part 6, with lower crown 7 and central collar 8. In this central collar 8, the stem
9 of the articulation means is sliding which is formed by preliminary body 10 with
shaped base 11 and the two components of the fixing means: the spinned nail 12 and
its containment base 13. By means of knurling, the weakening operation is carried
out on the intermediate band of body 10 already inserted into cavity 5, which brings
its ending part in initial expansion. Riveting is the, carried out which performs
a further expansion of the end part reaching hat 4. This one shows the squeezing chamber
14 with retention crown 15. The components 1 and 5 are then assembled with interposed
tablet 2 forming the button head with inserted mushroom articulation body 15. Parts
12 and 13 are assembled in similar way forming the infixing means. The button is laid
by riveting: nail 12 is inserted into the interposed tissue wefts 16, penetrates into
the mushroom duct 17 and is squeezed with shape deformation into the same chamber
14, and is kept back on the crown 15 for granting a solidarily working binding condition.
The stable condition is allowed by the containment of tissue 16 between the shaped
bases: an inside one consisting of shaping border 18 on base 19 of nail 12, and the
outer mushroom shaped one 11.
[0006] In particular, conventional type nails can be used, as well as different composition
forms and metal bands of different materials, such as iron, brass, steel, duraluminium
or other.
1. Turning-basculating button for clothing, characterized by the fact that a mobile articulated
head on a mushroom-shaped knickle mobile head is employed to fit by fixing and squeezing
a nail to insert into the interposed tissue. The said head consists of a roof (1)
which keeps a step cavity (5), in plying border with interposed tablet (2), with central
and lower collation seat (3) of the mushroom cap to alow its easy rotation and, in
the button fitting phase, to seal the nail riveting. In the cavity foreseen with collar
(8), the mushroom stem (9) is sliding. After having performed the device components
by means of pressing, a weakening operation is carried out on the intermediate face
of the body (10), then after having already fitted the stem into the cavity collar,
a rolling operation is carried out which brings the upper part to an initial expansion
and to riveting. The parts of the button to fix are then assembled, while another
machine aysembles the two nail components (12 and 13).
2. Turning-basculating button for clothing, as per claim 1, characterized by the fact
that the button is fitted by means of a punching machine with a small press or automatically
fed press. The nail (12) is inserted into the tissue webs (16), penetrates into the
duct (17) of the mushroom and, through the effect of the tablet seal, is squeezed
with shape deformation in chamber (14) and riveted on the retention collar (15). The
binding solidary condition of the button with the tissue is performed by pressure
containment between the nail base (13) fitted with retainment annular border, and
the mushroom base also fitted with retention shaping (11).
3. Turning-basculating button for clothing, as per claim 1, characterized by the fact
that three movements are allowed to the head: an oscillating one on the hat (4), a
rotating movement around the stem (9), and a translation one between the counterposed
beating crowns.