Apparatus for finishing clothing

Abstract

 Apparatus for finishing garments in which the garments are treated with steam, comprising a first stretching and retaining device for a band or border of the garment; means for moving parts (8,9) of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another from a rest position; a second stretching and retaining device (12,13,14) for retaining parts of the garment positioned opposite the band or border; means (15) for moving the first and second stretching and retaining devices away from and toward one another; and means for blowing steam into the garment, the means for moving parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another from the rest position being designed to rapidly carry out this movement over a first distance until a predetermined condition has been reached, followed by stretching the band or border with a relatively low tensile force.

Description

[0001] This invention relates to an apparatus for finishing garments in which the garments are treated with steam and hot air, comprising a first stretching and retaining device capable of cooperating with the inside of a band or border of the garment; means for moving parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another from a rest position; a second stretching and retaining device for retaining parts of the garment positioned opposite the band or border; means for moving the first and second stretching and retaining devices apart and toward one another; and means for blowing steam and then hot air into the garment.

[0002] Such apparatuses are known and are marketed by applicants, e.g. under the name of Big Jim. The apparatuses are often used for the treatment of trousers with steam and hot air, e.g. after the manufacture or after a washing treatment or the like, so as to smoothen the fabric of the trousers again and, in general, to bring the trousers into the condition intended during manufacture and suitable for sale. Such apparatuses are often designated as trouser steamers, but are also suitable for other, often at least partly cotton, garments such as skirts, overalls, jackets, shirts, shorts and the like.

[0003] For simplicity's sake, reference will substantially be made hereinafter to the treatment of trousers. More in general, the above-described treatment of garments is occasionally designated by the term "finishing", and an apparatus used for this treatment is designated by the term "finisher". In order to treat a pair of trousers with a machine of the above-described type, the trousers, mostly with their fly closed, are placed with the trouser band around two border forms capable of being moved away from one another and forming the first stretching and retaining device. There are often provided additional clamping means clamping the trousers against at least one of the border forms. The border forms are moved away from one another until the trouser band is stretched. For the trouser legs there are further provided two clamps capable of grasping the ends of the trouser legs and moving away from the first stretching and retaining device so as to pull the trousers tight. These clamps belong to the second stretching and retaining device.

[0004] After the trousers have thus been stretched, steam is blown into the trousers through a steam line that opens between the border forms. Then hot air is blown into the trousers, so that the fabric becomes crease-resistant again.

[0005] An important requirement imposed on apparatuses of the above-described type is that the treatment should cause no change of the size and/oder the model of the treated garment. Depending on the nature and quality of the garment to be treated, just a relatively low tension in the garment may sometimes lead to permanent stretch and thus to size change.

[0006] It is an object of the invention to provide an apparatus that minimizes the risk of size change of a garment during finishing.

[0007] More in general, it is an object of the invention to provide an improved finisher that works fast, reliably and efficiently.

[0008] According to the invention an apparatus of the above-described type is therefore characterized in that the means for moving parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another from the rest position are designed to quickly carry out this movement over a first distance until a predetermined condition is reached and then to stretch the band or border with a relatively low tensile force.

[0009] It is a further object of the invention to provide a solution for the problem that the size or sizes of the garments to be treated is or are sometimes not known or that the indicated size or sizes must be checked. Accordingly, in a further development of the invention an apparatus of the above-described type is characterized in that a displacement meter detecting the displacement of the parts relative to one another from the rest position is coupled with the means for moving parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another.

[0010] The invention will be described hereinafter in more detail with reference to the accompanying drawings of an exemplary embodiment.

Fig. 1 diagrammatically shows, in perspective, an example of an apparatus according to the invention;

Fig. 2 diagrammatically shows, in side view, an example of an apparatus according to the invention;

Fig. 3 diagrammatically shows a detail of an example of an apparatus according to the invention;

Fig. 4 diagrammatically illustrates an example of an actuating device for a first stretching and retaining device of an apparatus according to the invention;

Fig. 5 shows a variant of Fig. 4;

Figs. 6 and 7 diagrammatically show examples of details of an apparatus according to the invention;

Fig. 8 diagrammatically shows an example of a part of the first stretching and retaining device of an apparatus according to the invention.

[0011] Fig. 1 shows a diagrammatic perspective view of an example of a trouser steamer according to the invention, and Fig. 2 diagrammatically shows a similar apparatus in side view. The figures show a machine 1 having a column 2, a base 3 and an upper part 4. The base and the upper part both extend in the same direction transversely to the column, and the upper part is therefore substantially positioned directly above the base. The base 3 is provided with operating pedals 5, and the column is provided with an operating and control panel 6 (Fig. 1).

[0012] The upper part 4 carries a fan 7 for blowing hot air into a garment to be treated. There are also provided means for blowing steam into the garment. The upper part further carries two border forms consisting in this example of perforated half baskets 8, 9 facing away from one another with their closed but perforated convex sides and capable of being moved away from one another by means of suitable members. In this example these members comprise a pneumatic cylinder 10 secured to the upper part 4. In the example shown, the basket positioned near the free end of the upper part is rigidly mounted and is larger than the other basket capable of moving from the rest position in the direction of the column.

[0013] A pair of trousers, a skirt or such garment can be placed with its band or border around the baskets, which is followed by moving the smaller basket 9 away from the other basket by means of the cylinder 10 until the band or border has been pulled tight and the garment can remain suspended from the baskets. Preferably, there are further provided clamping fingers 11 that cooperate with the larger basket, thus facilitating the arrangement of a garment. During operation the fly or zip fastener of the garment is positioned between two clamping fingers.

[0014] In the known apparatuses the fly or the like of the garment must be closed. As will be elucidated hereinafter, this is not always strictly necessary in an apparatus according to the invention.

[0015] The apparatus further comprises a carriage 12 capable of being moved up and down along the column 2. In this example the carriage 12 carries two clamps 13, 14 positioned between the baskets and the base and mounted on an arm 16 extending transversely to the column. These clamps 13, 14 can grasp the trouser legs, hems, sleeves or the like of the garment.

[0016] Fig. 2 shows the carriage with clamps in the lowermost position and with broken lines in the uppermost position, while Fig. 1 shows an intermediate operating position. The carriage 12 can be moved up and down by means of suitable members, such as the pneumatic cylinder 15 shown in Fig. 1. The operation of the cylinder 15 is such that the carriage is moved up by actuating the cylinder and moves down by gravity when the cylinder is released. The carriage has an arm 16 which is a pivoted balance arm. The balance arm can pivot on a horizontal pin 17 extending transversely to the vertical direction of movement of the carriage and also transversely to the connecting line between the clamps 13, 14 and the column. This is diagrammatically shown in Fig. 3.

[0017] After the carriage has been moved up by actuating the cylinder 15, sufficiently to fasten the ends of the trouser legs in the clamps 13, 14, the cylinder 15 is released through a line 18 and a controllable release valve 19. The carriage then moves down by gravity until the garment has been stretched tight. At that moment an upward force 20 begins to act on the clamps 13, 14 and causes the balance arm 16 to pivot on pivot pin 17.

[0018] The part 21 of the balance arm extending beyond the pin 17 in the column 2 cooperates with a switch means 22, e.g. a microswitch or a control rod of a reversible valve which moves together with the pivot pin 17 or, e.g., the piston rod 23 of the cylinder 15. As soon as the force 20 causes the balance arm to leave the rest position, the switch means 22 is actuated, thus closing, at least partly, the release valve 19, so as to inhibit a further downward movement and stretch the trouser legs under a specific adjustable pre-tension.

[0019] After the garment has been stretched in the described manner by means of the baskets and the cylinder 10 and by means of the carriage with the clamps 13, 14 and the cylinder 15, steam is blown into the garment. Normally, after the steam supply has been terminated, hot air is still blown in by means of a fan 7, so as to model and dry the treated garment. Finally, the carriage is moved farther up, the baskets are moved toward one another, and the garment is removed. After this a next garment can be placed on the apparatus.

[0020] Especially when garments are treated at the final stage of the production process, it is important that the cycle time for finishing a garment should be minimized as much as possible. This can be achieved, inter alia, by applying a high working pressure for the cylinder 10, so that this cylinder causes the baskets to rapidly move away from one another. However, this involves the risk that the band or border of the garment may be stretched to such a degree as to change the original size of the garment, which is in general undesirable. In order to ensure that the finishing process does not change the size of a treated garment, the lowest possible tension is desirable.

[0021] A problem may occur when the trouser pockets of a pair of trousers already stretched around the baskets are still to be brought into the right position. Due to the exerted low stretching and retaining force, the trousers could slip off the baskets and especially off the small basket that is not provided with clamping fingers. According to the invention this problem may be solved by providing at least one of the baskets - preferably the movable basket - with a roughened surface. Alternatively, there may be used a clamping means cooperating with the small basket, as will be elucidated hereinafter in more detail.

[0022] As stated before, a minimum cycle time is also important. Consequently, it must be possible to rapidly stretch the garments.

[0023] According to the invention the cylinder 10 is therefore connected first with a compressed air line having a first high pressure and then, after a predetermined pressure value has been reached in the cylinder, with a compressed air line having a reduced pressure. A reducing valve may therefore be accommodated in the compressed air line. This is diagrammatically shown in Fig. 4.

[0024] Fig. 4 diagrammatically shows the baskets 8 and 9 and the piston rod 31 of the cylinder 10 connected with the movable basket 9. The direction of movement is indicated by a double arrow 32. Furthermore, a garment with a band or border 33 placed around the baskets is indicated at 30. The garment is placed with the band around the baskets, which is followed by actuating the cylinder 10 by means of one of the pedals 5 so as to move the baskets away from one another. In the example shown, the small basket moves relatively to the stationary larger basket.

[0025] Accommodated in a compressed air line 34 is a switch valve 35 actuated by a pedal 5. In the example of Fig. 4 the compressed air line 34 is further connected with the cylinder 10 through a controllable reducing valve 36. Beyond the reducing valve 36 there is also provided a pressure detector 37 that may or may not be equipped with a readable scale and provides a control signal when a predetermined pressure has been reached in the cylinder 10. Through a connection 38 indicated by a broken line, this control signal activates the reducing valve 36 so as to lower the supplied compressed air to a predetermined reduced value.

[0026] In a practical situation, the normal compressed air pressure may be, e.g., 5 bar. The control signal of the pressure detector may be generated, e.g. as soon as the pressure in the cylinder 10 has increased to 3 bar. The reduced pressure may be, e.g., 0.5 bar.

[0027] Due to the above-described control of the cylinder 10, the small basket first rapidly moves away from the other basket under the influence of the relatively high pressure and the much lower final pressure that determines the tensile force exerted on the trouser band is not actuated until after some time. If the low final pressure was applied immediately, the displacement of the small basket would cost much more time and therefore lead to a longer cycle time.

[0028] Fig. 5 shows an alternative method of controlling the cylinder 10, with the compressed air line 34 dividing beyond the switch valve 35 into two branches 40, 41 both connected with a reversing valve 42. The valve 42 can connect one line or the other with an output line 43 leading to the cylinder 10. The reversing valve itself can be controlled by a pressure detector 37. Accommodated in the branch 41 is a reducing valve 36, if required followed by a manometer 44 for monitoring the adjustment of the valve 36.

[0029] Another possibility of reducing the active pressure in the cylinder 10 would be, e.g., to create a suitable counterpressure on the other side of the piston 45 of the cylinder 10. Yet another possibility of reducing the active pressure in the cylinder 10 is to use a pivoted border form that, when a predetermined tensile force occurs in the band or border, tilts and actuates a microswitch. This variant will be elucidated hereinafter in more detail.

[0030] The above-described apparatus therefore enables a rapid treatment of garments because the band or border need not be closed and because the stretching means for the band or border rapidly travel, at least partly, the distance between rest position and final position. By applying a low stretching force the preservation of the original band or border size is ensured.

[0031] The band or border size may be checked by determining the difference between the starting position and the final position of the moving border form(s). There are various possibilities for this. Thus, for instance, there may be used a so-called incremental meter available as a rotary pulse generator and driven by the movement of the moving border forms (in the example described: the small basket). The drive may be effected, e.g., by means of a rack, but also, as diagrammatically shown in Fig. 6, by means of a cord 52 that is passed around a drive shaft 51 of the rotary pulse generator 50 and is kept tight, e.g., by a little weight 53 or in another suitable manner. Instead of a cord, there may also be used a rope, band, chain or the like.

[0032] The number of revolutions of the shaft 51 and therefore the number of pulses generated by the incremental meter determines the size of the band or border. As diagrammatically shown, the pulses may be supplied to a microprocessor or PLC or a normal personal computer 54 that determines and reproduces the associate size. If desired, the size thus determined may be compared with a size originally indicated, so that a form of quality check is possible during finishing. Such a quality check can advantageously be carried out in, e.g., the manufacture of jeans at the end of the production process. If desired, the microprocessor may control a printing device that automatically prints a label mentioning the size.

[0033] The size of a pair of trousers is determined not only by the band size but also by the length of the legs. According to the invention the length of the legs can be determined, after the carriage 12 has come to a standstill, by moving a sensor that extends between the legs upward relatively to the carriage until the sensor reaches the crotch of the trousers. Such a sensor in the form of a thin rod is diagrammatically shown at 60 in Fig. 2.

[0034] As diagrammatically shown in Fig. 7, the sensor is pivot-mounted on a horizontal transverse pin 61, similarly to the balance arm 16. As soon as the sensor tilts and thereby actuates a co-moving microswitch 62 or a co-moving switch valve, the movement of the sensor is stopped. The distance to the carriage and the clamps 13, 14 then determines the length of the legs. This distance can be determined with an incremental meter or with detectors arranged along the path of the sensor.

[0035] In the example shown, the microswitch 62 cooperates with the part of the sensor that extends beyond the pivot pin 61. However, the switch could also be actuated by the other part of the sensor. Alternatively, there may be used a firmly secured but flexible sensor that actuates a switch when bending.

[0036] For many types of trousers there is a fixed ratio between the total length of a pair of trousers and the length of the inside leg that determines the length size ("in-seam"). In these cases the total length of the trousers could also be measured, instead of the leg length.

[0037] The total length is given by the distance between the clamps 13, 14 and the baskets or the upper part 4 of the machine. A sensor as described above is then superfluous: only an incremental meter or the like coupled with the carriage 12 is necessary.

[0038] The clamps 13, 14 are preferably of such design that they form a stop surface - positioned below the clamping jaws and unambiguously determining the clamping length of the legs - for the leg bottom when being clamped. Such a stop surface is diagrammatically shown at 14' in Fig. 2.

[0039] Thus, both the width of the band and the length of the trouser leg can be determined and checked during finishing.

[0040] Fig. 8 diagrammatically illustrates an alternative method of controlling the pressure in the cylinder 10. In the embodiment shown in Fig. 8, the small movable basket 9 is pivoted on a pin extending transversely to the direction of movement indicated by an arrow 70, so that the basket can slightly tilt forward, as indicated by a curved arrow 71.

[0041] If such tilting occurs against an adjustable action of a spring, it may be achieved that when the band or border of the garment to be finished is pulled tight the basket tilts when a predetermined low stretching force has been reached and then actuates a microswitch which reduces the pressure in the cylinder 10.

[0042] In the example shown, the small basket 9 is mounted on a leaf spring 72 extending in the direction of movement of the basket and having one end secured to a reciprocating carrier 73 actuated by the cylinder 10. In Fig. 8 the front end of the leaf spring is secured to the carrier 73 at 74, while the back end can cooperate with the actuating means 75 of a microswitch 76.

[0043] As soon as the band or border of the garment exerts a predetermined low counterpressure on the basket 9 moving backward (to the left in Fig. 8), the basket tilts according to the arrow 71, and the microswitch is actuated.

[0044] Fig. 8 further shows a pneumatic pressure finger 77 for clamping the band or border of the garment to be treated against the moving border form immediately after the garment has been placed. The pressure finger ensures that with the low tensile force the garment does not slip off the moving border form. As a consequence, the band or border can be released faster, which shortens the cycle time.

[0045] The pressure finger 77 comprises a cylinder 78 and a piston rod provided with a cap 79 or the like. The cylinder moves together with the basket and, in the example shown, is mounted on an arm 80 secured to the basket. For actuating the cylinder 78 there may be provided, e.g., a foot pedal.

[0046] It is observed that only exemplary embodiments of an apparatus according to the invention have been described in the foregoing. After the foregoing, various modifications are obvious to those skilled in the art. Thus, for instance, the carriage could be driven similarly to the small border form. Also, both border forms, or precisely the larger border form, could be movable. Furthermore, the larger border form, or both border forms, may be tiltably mounted.

[0047] The movable parts of the stretching and retaining devices, in particular of the first stretching and retaining device, can alternatively be driven by a screw spindle. The screw spindle itself can be driven hydraulically or pneumatically but also, e.g., electrically. In case of electric drive the increase in the strength of the current received by the drive motor can then be detected. At a predetermined value the drive is then switched off or switched to a lower speed.

[0048] If desired, an apparatus according to the invention can be used to exclusively determine or check the size of garments, e.g. in the final phase of the production process or in case of a quality check. This does not strictly require that the movement of the parts of the stretching and retaining device should comprise a first distance travelled relatively fast. This is particularly not necessary in case of a random sample check.

[0049] These and similar modifications are deemed to fall within the scope of the invention.

Claims

1. Apparatus for finishing garments in which the garments are treated with steam and hot air, comprising a first stretching and retaining device capable of cooperating with the inside of a band or border of the garment; means for moving parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another from a rest position; a second stretching and retaining device for retaining parts of the garment positioned opposite the band or border; means for moving the first and second stretching and retaining devices away from and toward one another; and means for blowing steam and then hot air into the garment, characterized in that the means for moving parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another from the rest position are designed to rapidly carry out this movement over a first distance until a predetermined condition is reached and then to stretch the band or border with a relatively low tensile force.

2. Apparatus according to claim 1, characterized in that the first stretching and retaining device comprises at least one of border form having a roughened surface cooperating with the garment to be treated.

3. Apparatus according to claim 1 or 2, characterized by at least one movable part of the first stretching and retaining device, said movable part being provided with a co-moving clamping means clamping, during operation, the band or border of a garment to be treated against the movable part.

4. Apparatus according to claim 1, 2 or 3, characterized in that a displacement meter detecting the displacement of the parts relative to one another from the rest position is coupled with the means for moving parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another.

5. Apparatus according to claim 4, characterized in that said displacement meter provides a signal representing the size of the band or border.

6. Apparatus according to claim 5, characterized in that said signal is an electric signal supplied to a microprocessor comparing the received signal with the size details stored in the memory and indicating the real size and/or a deviation.

7. Apparatus according to any of claims 4-6, characterized in that said displacement meter is a rotary pulse generator with a shaft driven by the movement of the parts capable of being moved away from one another.

8. Apparatus according to claim 7, characterized in that at least one of the parts capable of being moved away from one another drives the rotary pulse generator through a suitable transmission.

9. Apparatus according to claim 8, characterized in that said rotary pulse generator is driven by a cord or the like connected with at least one of the movable parts, said cord being passed around the rotary part of the pulse generator, a force being exerted on the free end of the cord or the like, so as to keep the cord or the like tight.

10. Apparatus according to any of the claims, characterized in that the means for moving the parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another comprise a driven screw spindle coupled with at least one of said parts.

11. Apparatus according claim 10, characterized in that the screw spindle is driven by an electric drive means.

12. Apparatus according claim 11, characterized by a detector for detecting the strength of the current received by the electric drive means and providing a control signal when the current strength or its increase reaches a predetermined value.

13. Apparatus according to any of claims 1-9, characterized in that the means for moving parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another comprise a drive cylinder coupled with at least one of the parts and actuating means for the drive cylinder, said actuating means comprising a pressure line and a controllable valve, said controllable valve directly transmitting the pressure prevailing in the pressure line to the drive cylinder, while in a second position of the controllable valve a predetermined reduced pressure is applied to said drive cylinder.

14. Apparatus according to claim 13, characterized in that the reduced pressure is a relatively slightly reduced pressure fed to the drive cylinder as counterpressure.

15. Apparatus according to claim 13 or 14, characterized by a pressure detector detecting the pressure in the drive cylinder and, when a predetermined pressure value has been reached, providing a control signal for the controllable valve.

16. Apparatus according to any of claims 10-15, characterized by tension detection means detecting the tension in the band or border of the garment occurring during moving the parts of the first stretching and retaining device away from one another and providing a control signal for the controllable valve when a pre-adjustable value is reached.

17. Apparatus according to claim 16, characterized in that the tension detection means comprise a leaf spring member carrying one of the parts of the first stretching and retaining device and extending in the direction of stretch, said leaf spring member being rigidly mounted near one end, the other end being capable of cooperating with the actuating member of a switch.

18. Apparatus according to claim 17, characterized in that at least one of the parts of the first stretching and retaining device capable of being moved away from one another is secured to said leaf spring member together with a clamping finger, while said leaf spring member and said microswitch are secured to a carrier connected with the drive cylinder.

19. Apparatus according to any of the preceding claims, characterized by means movable relatively to the second stretching and retaining devices in the direction of the first stretching and retaining device, said means being capable of detecting the length of at least part of the garment.

20. Apparatus according to claim 19, characterized in that the means movable relatively to the second stretching and retaining devices comprise a sensor extending, during operation, between parts of the garment, said sensor providing a signal representing the distance to the second stretching and retaining devices, as soon as the sensor meets resistance.

21. Apparatus according to claim 20, characterized in that the sensor comprises a pivotally mounted thin rod rotating on a pivot pin, as soon as the sensor meets resistance, and actuating, during said rotation, a switch means terminating the movement of the sensor.

22. Apparatus according to claim 21, characterized in that the sensor comprises a firmly secured flexible rod, instead of a pivotal rod.

23. Apparatus according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second stretching and retaining device comprises at least one stop surface for the end edge(s) of a part of the garment facing away from the band or border of the garment.

24. Apparatus according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second stretching and retaining device is coupled with a distance meter detecting the distance to the first stretching and retaining device.

25. The use of an apparatus according to any of the preceding claims for size determination and/or size check of garments.

26. A process for determining and/or checking the size or sizes of a garment, characterized by using an apparatus for finishing garments having at least a first stretching and retaining device capable of cooperating with the band or border of the garment and comprising parts capable of being moved away from one another and capable of stretching the border or band, said border or band being pulled tight with a very low tensile force, the displacement of the parts capable of being moved away from one another being measured relatively to one another and being used as an indication of the border or band size.

27. A process according to claim 26, characterized in that the apparatus used comprises a second stretching and retaining device for retaining parts of the garment positioned opposite the band or border as well as means for moving the first and second stretching and retaining devices away from and toward one another, said second stretching and retaining device pulling, during operation, the garment tight at the parts of the garment positioned opposite the band or border.

28. A process according to claim 27, characterized in that the distance between the first and second stretching and retaining devices is determined when the garment has been pulled tight with at least the second stretching and retaining device.

29. A process according to claim 27, characterized in that the length of the inside leg is determined when the garment has been pulled tight with at least the second stretching and retaining device.

Drawing