[0001] The invention relates to twisting yarn in general, and in particular to a twisting
method and a twisting frame for such a twisting method.
[0002] In conventional processes of picking a single yarn and applying a twist to it, or
in the conventional process twisting two or more yarns together (a so-called throwing
process), cam mechanisms and/or computers are used in order to create irregularities
in the yarn. When such a yarn has been processed into woven goods or knit goods, colour
density variations appear in the dyeing process which result in the appearance of
uneven dyeing. In such a twisting method, ring twisters, two-for-one twisters, Italy
twisters, covering machines or false twisters can be used.
[0003] Methods using a conventional twisting machine produce a yarn with an irregular feel
by varying the twist of the yarn at random. This randomness produces an artificial
texture with very little natural feel, and accordingly it is not very comfortable
for the wearer.
[0004] The German patent publication DE-C-37 147 14 discloses a device for controlling the
twisting of three yarns to perform a roving. The three yarns are provided by separate
supply means operating at different speeds, the length of each yarn in the twisted
roving being different. The twisting onto a spindle is controlled by a predetermined
operation program. The slowest running supply means for the shortest yarn to be twisted
is taken as the control parameter for determining the length of the yarn.
[0005] The object underlying the present invention is to provide a twisting method and a
twisting frame capable of producing yarns having a natural feeling of comfort to human
beings.
[0006] According to the present invention, a twisting method and a twisting frame are provided
as defined in claims 1 and 2. Yarn can be manufactured on an industrial scale wherein
the twist of the yarn does not vary randomly. Rather, the variations have a distribution
in particular a 1/f fluctuation resulting in the effect that the yarn will have a
natural feeling of unevenness. In the present application, the expression "1/f fluctuation"
is defined and understood as a power spectrum with a frequency component f, and it
is proportional to 1/f
k, wherein k is approximately 1.
[0007] In such a twisting method, a twist is applied to a single yarn or a plurality of
yarns, wherein the twist is applied to the yarn or the yarns by setting the twist
count to correspond to the strengths of serial signals having a 1/f fluctuation.
[0008] In the twisting frame according to the invention, which twists a single yarn or a
plurality of yarns, there are provided a feed roller that draws the yarn or the yarns,
and a spindle that receives the yarn or the yarns fed from the feed roller. Then,
a twist count having a 1/f fluctuation is applied to the yarn or the yarns by setting
the rotational speed of the feed roller or the spindle to correspond to the strengths
of serial signals having a 1/f fluctuation.
[0009] In an embodiment of the twisting frame, the twist count having a 1/f fluctuation
is applied to the yarn or the yarns by setting the rotational speed of both the feed
roller and the spindle to correspond to the strengths of serial signals having a 1/f
fluctuation.
[0010] By means of the twisting method and the twisting frame according to the invention,
the twist of the yarn manufactured thereby does not change randomly, rather the change
has a specific distribution with a 1/f fluctuation imparting a special feeling of
comfort and aesthetic beauty to the wearer.
[0011] Accordingly, woven goods or knit goods using such a yarn also have a 1/f fluctuation.
It is due to this 1/f fluctuation in the twist that the goods are characterized by
a particularly comfortable feel and, subsequent to dyeing, by colour density variations,
which again impart a special feeling of comfort and aesthetic beauty to the wearer.
[0012] The invention will be explained in more detail below by means of preferred embodiments
and with reference to the accompanying drawings, wherein
- Fig. 1
- shows an overview diagram of the principal components of a twisting frame according
to an embodiment; and
- Fig. 2
- is a block diagram of the drive system for motors used in the twisting frame.
[0013] In the method of twisting a yarn or a plurality of yarns, when applying a twist to
a yarn 11, changes are imparted having a 1/f fluctuation to the twist resulting in
that the twist of the yarn 11 has a 1/f fluctuation. Accordingly, the twist of the
yarn 11 will vary with a correlation having a 1/f fluctuation making it possible to
manufacture - in large quantities using mechanical equipment - a yarn having a feel
similar to yarn spun by hand. Furthermore, spun yarn and/or filaments may be used
as a yarn 11.
Twisting Frame
[0014] A twisting frame 1 as shown in the embodiment of Fig. 1 is a device to twist yarn
by applying a twist to a single yarn or a plurality of yarns 11.
[0015] The twisting frame 1 is provided with a plurality of motors, for example a feed motor
21 and a spindle motor 22 each of which can be controlled independently.
[0016] In the twisting frame 1 according to Fig. 1, the feed motor 21 is used to drive feed
rollers 31. The rotational speed of feed rollers 31 can be determined, for example,
by imparting a prescribed rotational speed to the feed roller or feed rollers 31 via
belts and/or gears (not shown in detail), and adjusting the size and number of gears.
Also, an arbitrary rotational speed can be imparted to a spindle or spindles 41 by
rotating a tin roller 32 by means of the spindle motor 22. These motors 21 and 22
can also be used in common, where necessary, and the rotational speed of the rollers
31 and 32 can be adjusted using converters, such as belts and/or gears.
Feed Rollers
[0017] The feed roller or the feed rollers 31 have a prescribed rotational speed, and they
draw out a single yarn or a plurality of yarns 11 together. The yarn 11 is drawn out
by being pinched and rotated by the feed roller or rollers 31. The drawing speed of
the yarn 11 is determined by the diameter and the rotational speed of the respective
feed roller 31.
Spindles
[0018] The rotation of the respective spindle imparts a twist to the yarn 11 fed from the
feed roller 31, and subsequently the yarn 11 is wound onto bobbins. In reality, the
degree of twist is set for the yarn to be able to withstand downstream processes,
generally weaving or knitting and to affect the hand of finished woven fabrics or
knitted goods. The degree of twist can be expressed by a twist coefficient as indicated
in the following equation (1):

wherein
- K =
- twist coefficient
- T
- = twist count and
- Ne
- = yarn count.
[0019] For yarns of the same yarn count, the twist count increases as the twist coefficient
increases, forming yarn with a hard hand, and the twist count decreases as the twist
coefficient decreases, forming a bulky yarn with soft hand.
[0020] In a typical case, the twist coefficient will be 2,5 to 4,5. To obtain yarns of the
same hand, but with different yarn counts, the twist coefficient is set to be constant,
and the twist count is set to correspond to the yarn count. The twist is determined
by the length of the yarn fed from the feed roller 31 and by the number of twists
imparted over the length. Therefore, the twist can be modified by keeping either parameter
constant and varying the other. To increase the twist at the same yarn count, the
feed from the feed roller 31 can be kept constant while increasing the rotation of
the spindle 41. On the other hand, the rotation of the spindle 41 can be kept constant
while reducing the feed from the feed roller 31. The same result will be achieved
in either case.
1/f Fluctuation
[0021] The present inventor has discovered that a 1/f fluctuation would impart a particularly
comfortable feel to human beings. The results were published in a paper entitled "Bioinformation
and 1/f Fluctuation", Applied Physics, 1985, pp. 429 to 435, and in another-paper
entitled "Biocontrol and 1/f Fluctuation", Journal of Japan. Soc. of Precision Machinery,
Vol. 50, No. 6, 1984, pp. 109-114. The abstract of these papers reads as follows:
"The 1/f fluctuation provides a comfortable feeling to human beings; the reason is
that the variations in the basic rhythm of the human body have a 1/f spectrum. From
another perspective, the human body eventually becomes tired of a constant stimulation
from the same source, but conversely, the body feels uncomfortable if the stimulations
were to change too suddenly. Therefore, a 1/f fluctuation is a fluctuation of the
right proportion between these two extremes."
[0022] In addition, an excerpt from "The World of Fluctuations" by Brubachs, published by
Kodansha, reads as follows: "For example, the rhythms exhibited by the human body,
such as heart beats, hand-clapping to music, impulse-release period of neurons, and
alpha rhythms observed in the brain, are all basically 1/f fluctuations, and it has
been shown experimentally that if a body is stimulated by a fluctuation like these
biorhythmic 1/f fluctuations, it would feel comfortable."
[0023] Fluctuations or variations exist in various forms throughout the natural world. The
gurgling of a stream, a soft and gentle breeze, and other phenomena that impart a
comfortable feeling to human beings have a 1/f fluctuation, whereas typhoons and other
strong winds that impart uneasiness do not have a 1/f fluctuation.
Motor Control
[0024] Fig. 2 is a block diagram in order to illustrate the motor control. A controller
6 receives signals from a feed motor setter and spindle-motor setter 61, a 1/f-fluctuation
signal generator 62 and a twist count setter 63. These signals are processed by the
controller 6 which is connected to drivers 64 which control the respective motors,
namely the feed motor 21 and the spindle motor 22. Also, the feed motor 21 and the
spindle motor 22 are provided with a corresponding speed detector 25 from which feedback
signals are supplied to the corresponding drivers 64 allowing the respective rotational
speed to be controlled.
[0025] The feed motor setter and spindle motor setter 61 set the speed of each motor 21
and 22, respectively, to a prescribed value. By determining a 1/f fluctuation signal
from the 1/f fluctuation signal generator 62 based upon these prescribed speed values,
a 1/f fluctuation can be imparted to the rotational speed of the respective motors
21 and 22. In addition, when the number of twists of the yarn 11 is set by using the
twist count setter 63 of the yarn 11, a yarn 11 having a 1/f fluctuation based on
this twist count will be spun.
1/f Fluctuation Signal
[0026] The 1/f fluctuation signal is determind from y
1, y
2, y
3, ... formed by calculating
n coefficients a
1, a
2, a
3, ... an in a sequence of random numbers x
1, x
2, x
3, ... . Here, y
j can be expressed by equation (2) indicated below. It should be noted that the sequence
of numerical values forming y
1, y
2, y
3, ... has a 1/f spectrum. For further details, reference is made to Seitai shingô
(Biological Signaling), chapter 10, "Biological Rhythms and Fluctuations", published
by Corona Publishers, Ltd..

1/f Fluctuation Signal Generator
[0027] The 1/f fluctuation signal generator 62 shown in Fig. 2 operates as follows. In a
first step, a sequence-of random numbers is generated using, for example, a computer.
In a second step, this sequence of random numbers is stored in a storage device, wherein
a certain number
n of coefficients
a is successively calculated, and then a sequence of numerical values
y is obtained by a linear transformation.
[0028] This numerical sequence has a 1/f spectrum; hence it is converted into an electrical
signal as a 1/f fluctuation signal and output as a motor control signal. For example,
large values in the numerical sequence can be set to correspond to a high electric
potential to increase the speed of the respective motor, thereby creating a larger
number of twists. Other methods can also be employed, such as a numerical control
to control the rotational frequency of the respective motors using values from the
numerical sequence. If the inertia of the motors and other components of the control
system of the twisting frame 1 is large, the twist can also be applied by reducing
the level of the 1/f fluctuation control signal, as necessary.
Twist Control
[0029] As a method of imparting a 1/f fluctuation to the yarn 11, the twist can be made
to vary by setting the rotation of the spindle 41 to be constant and controlling the
feed motor 21 which drives the respective speed roller 31. For example, if a 1/f fluctuation
is imparted to the speed at which the yarn 11 is taken up by the feed roller 31, the
twist of the yarn 11 will vary between tight and loose, and this variation will have
the characteristics of 1/f fluctuation. The take-up speed of this feed roller 31 can
be adjusted by controlling the rotational speed of the feed motor 21. Therefore, by
applying a 1/f fluctuation signal to the rotational speed of the feed motor 21 and
using the rotation of the spindle 41 to change the twist of the yarn 11, a 1/f fluctuation
is applied to the twist of the yarn 11.
[0030] On the other hand, a twist varying with a 1/f fluctuation can also be applied to
the yarn 11 by keeping the rotation of the feed motor 21 and therefore the rotation
of the feed roller 31 constant and applying a 1/f fluctuation signal to the rotational
control of the spindle motor 22 which in turn drives the tin roller 32 and therefore
controls the rotation of the spindles 41. In another embodiment of the invention,
it is also possible to apply a 1/f fluctuation signal to both the feed motor 21 and
the spindle motor 22 so that both of the motors are controlled by a 1/f fluctuation
signal concurrently.
1. A twisting method comprising supplying and twisting a single yarn (11) or a plurality
of yarns (11),
characterized by
twisting the yarn or yarns (11) by setting the twist count to correspond to the strengths
of serial signals having a 1/f fluctuation.
2. A yarn twisting frame for providing twist to a single yarn or a plurality of yarns
(11), said frame comprising:
a feed roller (31) adapted to supply the yarn or yarns (11);
a spindle (41) adapted to receive the yarn or yarns (11) from the feed roller (31);
control means (6, 61; 64) for controlling the rotational speed of the feed roller
(31) and the spindle (41),
characterized in that
a 1/f fluctuation signal generator (62) is provided for generating a series of signals
having a 1/f fluctuation,
said control means (6, 61, 64) are adapted to set the rotational speed of either said
feed roller (31) or said spindle (41) according to the strength of said signals, thereby
providing a twist count to the yarn or yarns (11) having a 1/f fluctuation.
3. The twisting frame of Claim 2, characterised in that said control means (6, 61, 64)
are adapted to set the rotational speed of both the feed roller (31) and the spindle
(41) according to the strength of said series of signals.
1. Zwirnverfahren, das das Zuführen und Zwirnen eines einzelnen Garns (11) oder mehrerer
Garne (11) beinhaltet,
gekennzeichnet durch
ein Zwirnen des Garns oder der Garne (11), indem man die Drehungsanzahl zum Zwirnen
so einstellt, daß sie den Stärken von seriellen Signalen entspricht, die eine 1/f-Fluktuation
aufweisen.
2. Garnzwirnmaschine, um einem einzelnen Garn oder mehreren Garnen (11) eine Verzwirnung
zu erteilen, wobei die Maschine folgendes aufweist:
- eine Zuführungswalze (31), die zum Zuführen des Garns oder der Garne (11) ausgebildet
ist;
- eine Spindel (41), die zum Aufnehmen des Garns oder der Garne (11) von der Zuführungswalze
(31) ausgebildet ist;
- Steuereinrichtungen (6; 61; 64) zum Steuern der Rotationsgeschwindigkeit der Zuführungswalze
(31) und der Spindel (41),
dadurch gekennzeichnet,
daß ein 1/f-Fluktuationssignal-Generator (62) vorgesehen ist, um eine Reihe von Signalen
mit einer 1/f-Fluktuation zu erzeugen,
daß die Steuereinrichtungen (6, 61, 64) dazu ausgelegt sind, die Rotationsgeschwindigkeit
entweder von der Zuführungswalze (31) oder der Spindel (41) in Abhängigkeit von der
Stärke der Signale einzustellen, um dadurch dem Garn oder den Garnen (11) zum Zwirnen
eine Drehungsanzahl mit einer 1/f-Fluktuation zu erteilen.
3. Zwirnmaschine nach Anspruch 2,
dadurch gekennzeichnet,
daß die Steuereinrichtungen (6, 61, 64) dazu ausgebildet sind, die Rotationsgeschwindigkeit
sowohl von der Zuführungswalze (31) als auch von der Spindel (41) in Abhängigkeit
von der Stärke der Reihe von Signalen einzustellen.
1. Procédé de torsion comprenant l'acheminement et le retordage d'un fil unique (11)
ou d'une série de fils (11),
caractérisé par les opérations consistant :
à retordre le ou les fils (11) en réglant le numéro de torsion pour qu'il corresponde
aux intensités de signaux sériels ayant une fluctuation 1/f.
2. Dispositif de retordage de fil pour appliquer une torsion à un seul fil ou à une série
de fils (11), ledit dispositif de retordage comprenant :
un rouleau d'alimentation (31) qui est à même d'acheminer le ou les fils (11);
une broche (41) qui est à même de recevoir le ou les fils (11) du rouleau d'alimentation
31);
des moyens de commande (6, 61; 64) pour commander la vitesse de rotation du rouleau
d'alimentation (31) et de la broche (41),
caractérisé en ce
qu'on utilise un générateur de signaux de fluctuation 1/f (62) pour générer une série
de signaux ayant une fluctuation 1/f,
que lesdits moyens de commande (6, 61, 64) sont à même de régler la vitesse de rotation
dudit rouleau d'alimentation (31) ou de ladite broche (41) selon l'intensité desdits
signaux, ce qui a pour effet d'appliquer un numéro de torsion au fil (11) ayant une
fluctuation 1/f.
3. Dispositif de retordage selon la revendication 2, caractérisé en ce que lesdits moyens
de commande (6, 61, 64) sont à même de régler la vitesse de rotation à la fois du
rouleau d'alimentation (31) et de la broche (41) selon l'intensité de ladite série
de signaux.