TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention refers to a knitted panel for producing a machine knitted garment
of type waistcoat or jacket in one piece with a divided front, wherein the main part
of said panel or at least a strip section adjacent one or more of the edges of the
panel is formed by knitting in double bed, wherein an additional section outermost
along said edge is formed by knitting in a single bed, and wherein said outer section
forms a rolled piping.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] Traditional manufacturing of ready-made garments, e.g. jackets or waistcoats, usually
comprises cutting sections and stitching them together into a complete garment. This
assembly of the garment is labour-intensive and requires a high degree of precision
in order to make the garment fulfil the demands regarding quality and trueness to
size. If the garment is provided with a pattern, cutting and assembly should be performed
with regard to the pattern which often causes spillage of fabric.
[0003] The same goes for knitted garments, with the exception that the different parts which
form the garment may be knitted to substantially the right shape separately, without
any cutting. However, the assembly of the parts is just as labour-intensive and involves
the risk of faults in the production.
[0004] Further, it is known from WO 96/05345, to manufacture knitted jackets or waistcoats
by knitting a large rectangle. This knitting may be performed in computer controlled
knitting machines with double bed, which enables patterns and structure knitting.
By folding the rectangle at two places, it will form the back piece, the side pieces
and a divided garment front. This method reduces the manual work effort during assembly
of the garment. Openings are made at the sides, either for forming the arm openings
of a waistcoat, or for mounting the arms of a jacket.
[0005] GB-A-1,549,777 discloses knitting a garment by starting two front panels from non-run
set-ups, which lie vertically in the garment as worn and shaping the panels by making
needles inactive while holding loops thereon and then bringing them back into action,
the wales being horizontal. Thus the disclosure shows a knitting starting with knitting
an edge portion on front panels. There is no full disclosure of a knitting of a whole
garment, but the different panels are brought together and sewed into each other to
form a full garment, although the disclosure indicates an integral knitting. However,
the method disclosed starts with the knitting of an edge having the full length of
two side panels and neck portion.
[0006] The design and the manner in which the material in the divided front of the garment
hangs, is very important for the appearance of the garment. Therefore, it is common
to make a fold in each front section, so that two front pieces are provided and a
V-shaped neck opening. The folding can also be made in such a way, that each front
section is folded in parallel with the two short ends of the rectangular panel, whereupon
further folds are made, so that the front pieces are provided together with the V-shaped
opening. One disadvantage with this is that the two times double folding results in
four knitted layers which may lead to a garment which is unnecessarily lumbering.
One drawback with this prior art which involves forming the front pieces by folding
the short ends of the rectangle, is that one is comparatively rigidly confined to
certain basic variants.
[0007] Also, a garment having front sections folded in several layers tend to be rather
heavy and warm, so that it is not readily worn when the temperature surpasses normal
room temperature.
[0008] It would also be advantageous to be able to produce knitted garments with unfolded
or outward folded end edges, because it will then be possible to further simplify
and reduce the manual work effort for the production of these garments.
[0009] A main reason for avoiding production of knitted garments with unfolded or outward
folded end edges, is that the outer edge tend to get a "ragged" appearance, as this
edge has no structural stability and tend to roll itself up.
THE TECHNICAL PROBLEM
[0010] One object of the present invention is therefore to provide a knitted garment panel
which may form an end edge, e.g. in a divided front section, in its outward folded
state.
THE SOLUTION
[0011] For this purpose, the invention is characterized in that the front is partly folded
outward or unfolded and forms a rolled piping, for forming a structurally stable edge.
Owing to this design of the knitted garment panel, it will for example be more simple
to provide aesthetically attractive front pieces and one will have much more freedom
than before in designing such front pieces.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0012] The invention will be described here below with reference to an embodiment shown
in the accompanying drawing, in which
- Fig. 1
- schematically shows a knitted garment panel according to a first embodiment of the
invention, with the right half in a folded state, and
- Fig. 2
- shows correspondingly a structurally knitted garment panel according to a second embodiment
of the invention.
DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS
[0013] In Fig. 1 is shown a rectangular knitted garment panel 10 having short sides 11 and
long sides 12, 13, during completion to a ready-made jacket having a divided front
and a V-shaped neck opening.
[0014] The garment panel is folded as is shown at the right part of Fig. 1, substantially
in parallel with the short sides 11 along fold markings 14, for forming the back part
15 and the sides 16. The remaining parts of the garment panel 10 adjacent the short
sides 11 form the divided front part 17. An arm hole has been made at the side of
the garment panel 10 for mounting a sleeve 18.
[0015] The main part of the knitted garment panel in Fig. 1 is knitted in single bed, with
the exception of a strip section 19, which is structural knitted in double bed. Beyond
this strip section 19,, a narrow edge section 20 has been knitted in single bed over
some needles which section because of the structural differences between purl and
right side of the garment automatically will be shaped into a loop piping resembling
rolled edge.
[0016] This clearly defined rolled edge provides for an aesthetically attractive end edge
of an unfolded knitted garment panel, which does not require any further work effort.
Also, the rolled edge constitutes an elastically flexible, structural strengthening
of the edge, which contributes to maintaining the shape of the garment. Thus, the
rolled edge is formed by the transition from a section which has been knitted in double
bed, to a section which has been knitted in single bed and which rolls up towards
the purl side.
[0017] It appears from the right side of Fig. 1, a subpart 21 of the double knitted strip
section 19 is folded outwards along a fold marking 22, for making a neck opening.
By making the edge section 20 change from purl to right side in the area of the point
of intersection of the fold marking 22 and this section 20, the rolled edge will be
turned to the same direction notwithstanding that the front part 17 is partly double
folded.
[0018] The knitted garment section 10 may be knitted entirely or partially with one or several
patterns in two or several different colours, in such a manner that the pattern appears
with its reverse side and right side at the same side of the garment panel.
[0019] The fold markings 14 of the garment panel may be provided by knitting in yarn having
a contrasting colour. An alternative and more advantageous method is to provide the
fold markings of the front part by knitting the garment panel over a narrow segment
in a single bed over a number of needles. This means that the fold marking forms a
genuine physical fold in the garment material, which contributes to the faultless
hanging of the garment and ensures an attractive appearance which is maintained even
if the garment is washed. Fold markings may also be produced by some other structure
knitting of the garment panel. In this way, the fold markings may also become an active
part of the total design of the garment and thus may increase its purchase value.
[0020] Fig. 2 shows correspondingly, another variant of the invention, wherein the same
designating numbers have been used at corresponding details. The garment panel has
been structurally knitted in one piece with three with one another interconnected
segments, which are connected via the fold markings 14. These segments are entirely
knitted in double bed, except for said fold markings 14 and the rolled edge forming
outer sections 20, which run both along the outer edge of the front parts 17 and along
the structural knitted openings 23, 24 which form the respective arm openings and
slits of the garment. The three segments only need to be attached with stitches along
the shoulder part of the garment, in order to form a complete waist-coat. Naturally,
it is also possible to attach sleeves.
[0021] The invention is not limited to the above described embodiments, but several modifications
are possible within the scope of accompanying claims. For example, the outer edge
section 20 may be made wide or small, and in the same or a contrasting colour for
decorative effects. The neck segments 21 may be exchanged for along the bottom edge
13 folded segments which form pockets in the garment.
1. A knitted panel (10) comprising two short sides (11) and two long sides (12, 13) for
producing a machine knitted garment of type waistcoat or jacket in one piece with
a divided front (17), wherein the front (17) is partly folded outward or unfolded,
and wherein the main part of said panel (10) or at least a strip section (19) adjacent
one or more of the edges (11) of the panel (10) is formed by knitting in double bed,
wherein an additional section (20) outermost along said edge (11) is formed by knitting
in a single bed, and wherein said outer section (20) forms a rolled piping for forming
a structural stable edge.
2. A knitted panel according to claim 1,
characterized in that the rolled piping section (20), at a partly folded front (17), is designed so that
it changes from purl to right side in the area of the point of intersection of the
fold and the rolled piping section (20).
3. A knitted panel according to claim 1-2,
characterized in that a fold marking (22) meets the end edge (11) of the front (17).
1. Stricklage (10), umfassen zwei kurze Seiten (11) und zwei lange Seiten (12,13) zur
Herstellung eines maschinengestrickten Kleidungsstücks vom Westen- oder Jackentyp
in einem Stück mit einer unterteilten Vorderseite (17), wobei die Vorderseite (17)
teilweise nach außen gefaltet oder nicht gefaltet ist,
und wobei der Hauptteil der Lage (10) oder wenigstens ein Streifenabschnitt (19) benachbart
einem oder mehreren der Ränder (11) durch Stricken mit Doppelbett gebildet ist, wobei
ein äußerster zusätzlicher Abschnitt (20) entlang des Randes (11) durch Stricken mit
einem Bett gebildet ist, und wobei der äußere Abschnitt (20) eine Rollpaspel zur Bildung
eines stabilen Strukturrandes bildet.
2. Stricklage nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der Rollpaspelabschnitt (20) an einer teilweise gefalteten Vorderseite (17) so gestaltet
ist, daß sie sich vom Linksstricken zur rechten Seite im Bereich des Schnittpunkts
der Falte und des Rollpaspelabschnitts (20) ändert.
3. Stricklage nach Anspruch 1-2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß eine Faltenmarkierung (22) auf den Endrand (11) der Vorderseite (17) stößt.
1. Panneau tricoté (10) comprenant deux petits bords (11) et deux grands bords (12, 13)
pour fabriquer un vêtement tricoté à la machine du type gilet ou veste en une seule
pièce avec un devant ouvert caractérisé en ce que le devant (17) est en partie replié vers l'extérieur ou non plié et en ce que la partie principale dudit panneau (10) ou au moins une portion en forme de bande
(19) jouxtant l'un ou plusieurs des bords (11) du panneau (10) est formée par tricot
double fonture, une portion supplémentaire (20) longeant l'extérieur dudit bord (11)
étant formée par tricot simple fonture et ladite portion extérieure (20) formant un
liseré enroulé afin de former un bord de structure stable.
2. Panneau tricoté selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que la portion de liseré enroulé (20), sur un devant en partie replié (17), est conçue
de façon à passer d'un tricot à l'envers à un tricot à l'endroit dans la région du
point d'intersection entre le pli et la portion de liseré enroulé (20).
3. Panneau tricoté selon les revendications 1 et 2, caractérisé en ce qu'une marque de pli (22) rejoint le bord extrême (11) du devant (17).