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(11) | EP 0 887 449 A1 |
| (12) | EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION |
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| (54) | Jacquard shadow velvet, apparatus and method for manufacturing such jacquard shadow velvet |
| (57) A jacquard shadow velour comprising binding warp threads, tension warp threads, weft
threads, pile naps in an m/n-W-pile through weave (with n>m and n>3) and lying colored
pile areas. A number of the binding warp threads are of colored design and are floatingly
tied in on an upper side of the jacquard shadow velour provided with the pile naps,
for providing on this side a color pattern that is dependent on the color of each
of the binding warp threads of the number of binding warp threads. |
[0001] This invention relates to a jacquard shadow velour comprising binding warp threads, tension warp threads, weft threads, pile naps in an m/n W-pile through weave (with n>m and n>3) and lying colored pile areas.
[0002] Such a jacquard shadow velour where n=6 and m=3 is known, for instance, from European patent application 0380808, where the lying pile areas are made of colored design by making the weft threads of colored design. A disadvantage of the known jacquard shadow velour is that the color action of the weft threads on the side of the pile areas is relatively weak. Moreover, according to the patent, lying colored pile areas can only be obtained when the respective second weft threads of respective groups of three consecutive weft threads are bound in one plane by the tension warp threads.
[0003] The object of the invention is to provide a jacquard shadow velour in which a more prominent color action is obtained. Another object of the invention is to provide a jacquard shadow velour in which color action is obtained for weaves without the necessity of the second weft threads being tied in one plane by the tension warp threads. A further object of the invention is to provide a jacquard shadow velour with lying colored pile areas for other values of n and m than m=3 and n=6.
[0004] According to the invention, a jacquard shadow velour is accordingly characterized in that a number of the binding warp threads are of colored design and are floatingly tied in on a side of the jacquard shadow velour provided with the pile naps, for providing on this side a color pattern that is dependent on the color of each of the binding warp threads of the above-mentioned number of binding warp threads. It is found that the binding warp threads impart a relatively strong color action to the side of the jacquard shadow velour provided with the pile naps. A further advantage is that the color action can be obtained for weaves where n>m and n>3. To be considered here, therefore, are not only 3/6-W-pile through weaves, but also 4/8, 3/7, 5/10, 3/10, 4/10 and other W-pile through weaves. A further advantage of the present invention is that the color pattern that is obtained with the aid of the binding warp threads does not necessarily need to coincide with the shadow pattern formed by the pile areas. Thus, pile areas with different pile directions can be provided with the same color and pile areas having the same direction of the pile can be provided with mutually different colors. A binding warp thread that contributes to the color formation of a first pile area can contribute to the color formation in another pile area or not, as desired. In the jacquard shadow velour according to European patent application 0380808, a weft thread that contributes to the color formation in a pile area with a particular direction of the pile will by definition also contribute to the color formation in another pile area having the same direction of the pile and of which that weft thread is a part. Accordingly, in this regard, there is no freedom of choice as is the case with the jacquard shadow velour according to the invention.
[0005] In particular, a number of the binding warp threads are floatingly tied in on a back of the jacquard shadow velour.
[0006] According to a preferred embodiment, the above-mentioned number of binding warp threads are floatingly tied in on the upper side provided with the pile naps, adjacent the pile naps. Such a jacquard shadow velour is found to have a particularly good strength and stability.
[0007] According to a highly advanced embodiment, the jacquard shadow velour is provided, per tension warp thread, with a first and a second binding warp thread. Here, the first and second binding warp threads can have mutually different colors. Then, as desired, the first binding warp thread, the second binding warp thread, the first and the second binding warp threads, or neither of the binding warp threads can be floatingly tied in on the side provided with the pile naps. This means that, as desired, color action is obtained by the first binding warp thread, by the second binding warp thread, by both binding warp threads, or by neither of the binding warp threads. In other words, the jacquard shadow velour can comprise a first color area in which the first binding warp thread is floatingly tied in on the jacquard shadow velour's upper side provided with the pile naps, while the second binding warp thread is floatingly tied in on a back of the jacquard shadow velour, so that the color of the first binding warp thread is visible in the first color area. Likewise, it is possible that the jacquard shadow velour comprises a second color area in which the second binding warp thread is floatingly tied in on the jacquard shadow velour's upper side provided with the pile naps, while the first binding warp thread is floatingly tied in on a back of the jacquard shadow velour, so that the color of the second binding warp thread is visible in the second color area. In addition, it is possible that the jacquard shadow velour includes a third color area in which the first and second binding warp threads are floatingly tied in on the jacquard shadow velour's upper side provided with the pile naps, so that the color of the first and the color of the second binding warp thread are visible in the third color area. These colors can be the same or differ from each other. It is also possible that the jacquard shadow velour comprises a fourth color area in which the first and second binding warp threads are floatingly tied in on the back of the jacquard shadow velour, so that the color of the first and the color of the second binding warp thread are at least substantially not visible in the fourth color area.
[0008] Naturally, the jacquard shadow velour can also be provided with pile areas with upright pile naps. Preferably, the repeat of the binding warp threads corresponds to once or twice the repeat of the tension warp threads. Also, the jacquard shadow velour can further be provided with additional tied-in weft threads. These additional tied-in weft threads can impart an additional color action to the jacquard shadow velour. The weft threads of the jacquard shadow velour can be made of differently colored design, as desired.
[0009] In particular, the weft threads consist of identical groups of weft threads, with each group comprising p*n consecutive weft threads of mutually different colors (p = 1, 2, ...). When n is an even number, the weft threads consist in particular of identical groups of weft threads, with each group including n/2 consecutive weft threads of mutually different colors.
[0010] The jacquard shadow velour such as it is described in European patent application 0380808 too can further comprise floatingly tied-in binding warp threads according to the characterizing clause of claim 1. As a result, an improved color action on the jacquard shadow velour's side provided with the pile naps is obtained. Moreover, the variation of the color pattern to be provided is much greater than the color pattern that is obtained according to the European patent application mentioned.
[0011] In particular, it holds that m=3 and n=6, while in the lying pile areas, the respective second weft threads of each group of three weft threads embraced by a pile nap and having at least two mutually different colors are located at least substantially in one plane, each first and third weft thread of the group are located below and above the plane, or above and below the plane, respectively, the pile direction in the lying pile areas is determined by the position of the first and third weft threads of the respective group relative to the plane, and of each group the color of the first or third weft thread contributes to the color formation in the respective pile area. In this type of jacquard shadow velour, it is not necessary, as is the case in the European patent application mentioned, that the second weft threads be tied in one plane by the figure warp threads. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, however, this is the case.
[0012] The method for manufacturing a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention is characterized in that use is made of a double pile fabric weaving machine, the pile warp threads being tied in by shafts and the binding warp threads and the tension warp threads being tied in under the control of a Jacquard attachment. Because the Jacquard attachment controls both the binding warp threads and the tension warp threads as they are tied in, the jacquard shadow velour according to the invention can be obtained.
[0013] A double pile fabric weaving machine for manufacturing a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention is characterized in that the machine comprises a Jacquard attachment for tying in the binding warp threads and the tension warp threads and is provided with shafts for tying in the pile warp threads. The double pile fabric weaving machine can further comprise a weft thread changer for selectively picking the weft threads. In particular, the weft threads are color-selectively woven in.
[0014] According to a preferred embodiment, the jacquard shadow velour according to the invention is characterized in that in a direction of the weft threads successive binding warp threads of the above-mentioned number of binding warp threads are tied in alternately in floating and non-floating fashion on the jacquard shadow velour's side provided with the pile naps, for providing the color pattern on the side provided with the pile naps. As a result, an extra firm binding is obtained. Accordingly, the jacquard shadow velour is preferably characterized in that in a direction of the weft threads successive binding warp threads of the above-mentioned number of binding warp threads are tied in alternately in floating and non-floating fashion on the back of the jacquard shadow velour. The invention will presently be further elucidated with reference to the drawings, wherein:
Fig. 1a is a cross section in the warp direction of an upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to the invention in a pile area with a pile directed to the left associated with a first reed dent, with a first binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 1b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in the pile area with the pile directed to the left associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, while the first binding warp thread determines a color;
Fig. 2a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with a pile directed to the left associated with a first reed dent, while the second binding warp thread determines a color;
Fig. 2b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 2a in the pile area with the pile directed to the left associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, the second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 3a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with a pile directed to the left associated with a first reed dent, with a first and a second binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 3b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 3a in the pile area with the pile directed to the left associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first and the second binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 4a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with a pile directed to the left associated with a first reed dent, with a first and a second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 4b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 4a in the pile area with the pile directed to the left associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first and the second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 5a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with a pile directed to the right associated with a first reed dent, with a first binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 5b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 5a in the pile area with the pile directed to the right associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 6a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with a pile directed to the right associated with a first reed dent, with the second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 6b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 6a in the pile area with the pile directed to the right associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 7a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with a pile directed to the right associated with a first reed dent, with a first and a second binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 7b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 7a in the pile area with the pile directed to the right associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first and the second binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 8a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with a pile directed to the right associated with a first reed dent, with a first and a second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 8b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 8a in the pile area with the pile directed to the right associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first and the second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 9 is a first alternative embodiment of a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention which is provided with additional weft threads;
Fig. 10 is a second alternative embodiment of a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention which is provided with additional weft threads;
Fig. 11a is a cross section in the warp direction of a third embodiment of an upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to the invention in a pile area with a pile directed to the right associated with a first reed dent, with a binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 11b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 11a in the pile area with the pile directed to the right associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 12a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 11a in a pile area with a pile directed to the right associated with a first reed dent, the binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 12b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 12a in the pile area with the pile directed to the right associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 13a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 11a in a pile area with a pile directed to the left associated with a first reed dent, with the binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 13b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 13a in the pile area with the pile directed to the left associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 14a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 11a in a pile area with a pile directed to the left associated with a first reed dent, with a binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 14b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 14a in the pile area with the pile directed to the left associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 15a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with an upright pile associated with a first reed dent, with a first binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 15b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 15a in the pile area with the upright pile associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 16a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with an upright pile associated with a first reed dent, with a second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 16b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 16a in the pile area with the upright pile associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 17a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with an upright pile associated with a first reed dent, with a first and a second binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 17b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 17a in the pile area with the upright pile associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first and the second binding warp thread not determining a color;
Fig. 18a is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 1a in a pile area with an upright pile associated with a first reed dent, with a first and a second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 18b is a cross section in the warp direction of the upper and lower jacquard shadow velour according to Fig. 18a in the pile area with the upright pile associated with a second reed dent, located next to the first reed dent, with the first and the second binding warp thread determining a color;
Fig. 19 schematically shows a possible embodiment of an apparatus according to the invention for manufacturing a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention.
[0015] With reference to Figs. 1-18, various embodiments of a jacquard shadow velour will be described. The jacquard shadow velour can be manufactured, for instance, on a double pile fabric weaving machine, with the pile warp threads PK being raised and lowered with shafts. The binding warp threads BK, BK1 and BK2 as well as the tension warp threads SK are raised and lowered under the control of a Jacquard attachment. Weft threads 1-8 are picked. Here, optionally use can be made of a weft thread changer for picking the weft threads alternately, optionally varying in color, raw material and/or thread numbers. The consecutive weft threads 1-8 can then be woven in one after another, with eligible colors. The pile warp threads are inserted in an m/n-W-pile through weave (with n>m and n>3).
[0016] The tension warp threads, for the purpose of forming pile areas with a pile directed to the left, a pile directed to the right, or an upright pile, are so woven under the control of the Jacquard attachment that the tension warp thread SK traverses the weft threads 1-8 for forming crosswise ribs, which may or may not be staggered. The separate weft threads 1-8 are tied in by the tension warp threads SK and the binding warp threads BK1, BK2 and BK. Thus a double-work woven fabric 10 is obtained, with an upper woven fabric 12 and a lower woven fabric 14. This woven fabric 10 is cut open along the dotted line indicated in Fig. 1a with reference numeral 16. Both the upper woven fabric 12 and the lower woven fabric 14 then constitute a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention. For the cross sections of the woven fabrics as shown in Figs. 1b-18b, it also holds that the woven fabric 1 is cut open to obtain an upper woven fabric 12 and a lower woven fabric 14 as discussed in relation to Fig. 1a. For simplicity, however, the dotted line 16 has been omitted in Figs. 1b-18b.
[0017] After the upper woven fabric 12 and the lower woven fabric 14 have been separated from each other, whereby in fact the pile warp threads PK are cut, both the upper woven fabric 12 and the lower woven fabric 14 comprise pile naps 18 formed by the cut pile warp threads PK.
[0018] Both the upper woven fabric 12 and the lower woven fabric 14 constitute a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention. A first possible embodiment of a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention will be discussed with reference to Figs. 1a-8b and 16a-18b. Figs. 1a-8b and 16a-18b show possible woven fabric cross sections of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14. The jacquard shadow velour 12, 14 comprises pile naps in an m/n W-pile through weave (with n>m and n>3). The jacquard shadow velour 12, 14 is therefore provided with a 3/6 pile through weave. In principle, the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14 can comprise each of the woven fabric sections in a single woven fabric. In other words, a woven fabric section of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, depending on the position of the woven fabric section, can yield any one of each of the sections shown in Figs. 1a-8b and 16a-18b.
[0019] The jacquard shadow velour is provided, for each tension warp thread SK, with a first binding warp thread BK1 and a second binding warp thread BK2. In this example, the first binding warp thread BK1 and the second binding warp thread BK2 are differently colored. In Figs. 1a and 1b the binding warp thread BK1 is floatingly tied in on an upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, provided with the pile naps 18. In this way, the color of the binding warp thread BK1 will be visible on the upper side 20. In addition, it holds in Figs. 1a and 1b that the second binding warp thread BK2 is floatingly tied in on a back 22 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14. This means that the color of the second binding warp thread BK2 will not be visible on the front side 20. It holds for the first binding warp thread BK1 that it is floatingly tied in at the pile nap 18 and therefore will be visible in this pile nap. The pile naps 18 of Figs. 1a and 1b form a pile directed to the left. It also appears from Fig. 1a that in the jacquard shadow velour 12 the first binding warp thread BK1 is floatingly tied in adjacent the weft threads 1, 2 and 3, that is, adjacent the pile nap 18. Adjacent the weft threads 4-6 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, the first binding warp thread BK1 is not tied in floatingly. Instead, the binding warp thread BK1 is woven with the weft threads 4-6 according to a linen weave. On the other hand, for a second reed dent 2, located next to the first reed dent 1, it holds, as shown in Fig. 1b, that the first binding warp thread BK1 of the jacquard shadow velour 12 is not floatingly tied in at the weft threads 1-3. Instead, the first binding warp thread BK1 is floatingly tied in at the fourth, fifth and sixth weft threads, that is, at the pile nap 18. As a result, for the jacquard shadow velour 12 a firm weave is obtained. Entirely by analogy, it holds for the binding warp thread BK2 that in Fig. 1a it is floatingly tied in adjacent the weft threads 4, 5 and 6 on the back, while in Fig. 1b the binding warp thread BK2 is floatingly tied in adjacent the weft threads 1-3 on the back. Correspondingly, the same holds for the jacquard shadow velour 14.
[0020] More generally, therefore, it holds that in a direction of the weft threads, successive binding warp threads are tied in alternately in floating and non-floating fashion on the upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, provided with the pile naps, for providing a color pattern on the front side. Also, it holds that in the direction of the weft threads successive binding warp threads are tied in alternately in floating and non-floating fashion on the back 22 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14.
[0021] In Figs. 2a and 2b, respectively, the weaves for two adjacent reed teeth are shown for a pile directed to the left, with the color of the second binding warp thread BK2 being visible on the upper side 20. To that end, the second binding warp thread BK2 according to Figs. 2a and 2b is tied in like the first binding warp thread BK1 according to Figs. 1a and 1b. Similarly, the first binding warp thread BK1 according to Figs. 2a and 2b is tied in like the second binding warp thread BK2 according to Figs. 1a and 1b.
[0022] It is also possible, as shown in Figs. 3a and 3b, that neither of the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 contributes to the color formation on the front side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14. To that end, the first and second binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 are tied in like the binding warp threads BK2 according to Figs. 1a and 1b.
[0023] Finally, for the pile directed to the left, in Figs. 4a and 4b, respectively, the weaves are shown for the binding warp threads BK 1 and BK2 when they both contribute to the color formation on the upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14. To that end, the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 according to Figs. 4a and 4b are tied in like the binding warp thread BK1 according to Figs. 1a and 1b.
[0024] Also for pile areas with a pile directed to the right, it is possible that the binding warp thread BK1, the binding warp thread BK2, the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2, or neither of the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 contribute to the color formation on the upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14. All this is set out with reference to Figs. 5a-8b. In Figs. 5a-8b, the first and fourth weft threads are inserted under the tension warp thread SK, while the second, third, fifth and sixth weft threads are inserted above the tension warp thread SK. Thus, pile areas with a pile direction directed to the right are obtained. If it is desired that at a certain position of the jacquard shadow velour only the first binding warp thread BK1 contributes to the color formation of the front 20, the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 are tied in as shown in Figs. 5a and 5b. The weave of the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 with the weft threads 1-6 according to Figs. 5a and 5b corresponds entirely to the weave such as discussed in relation to Figs. 1a and 1b. Similarly, the weave of the first and second binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 according to Figs. 6a and 6b corresponds entirely to the weave according to Figs. 2a and 2b. According to Figs. 6a and 6b, therefore, the second binding warp thread BK2 will contribute to the color formation on the upper side (pile side).
[0025] When it is desired that in a pile area with a pile directed to the right the two binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 do not contribute to the color formation on the pile side 20, the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 are woven in with the weft threads 1-6 as shown in Figs. 7a and 7b. The weave of the binding warp threads 1 and 2 and the weft threads 1-6 in Figs. 7a and 7b corresponds to that of Fig. 3a and 3b, respectively.
[0026] Figs. 8a and 8b, finally, show the weave of a pile area with a pile directed to the right, the color or colors of both binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 making a contribution to the color formation on the upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14. To that end, again the weave of the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 and the weft threads 1-6 according to Figs. 8a and 8b corresponds to the weave of the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 and the weft threads 1-6 according to Figs. 4a and 4b.
[0027] According to the invention, it is also possible that in a pile area with an upright pile a contribution is made to the color formation of the jacquard shadow velour on the upper side by the first binding warp thread BK1, the second binding warp thread BK2, the first and second binding warp threads BK1 and BK2, or by neither of the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2. These situations are set out in Figs. 15a, 15b; 16a, 16b; 18a, 18b; and 17a, 17b, respectively. For obtaining an upright pile, it holds for each of the weaves shown in Figs. 15a-18c that the second and fifth weft threads are located above the tension warp thread SK, while the first, third, fourth and sixth weft threads are located below the tension warp thread SK. When, with an upright pile, only the first binding warp thread BK1 is to contribute to the color formation, the first and second binding warp threads are floatingly tied in as shown for adjacent reed dents in Figs. 15a and 15b, respectively. The first and second binding warp thread BK1, BK2 according to Figs. 15a and 15b are floatingly tied in for the same reason as discussed in relation to Fig. 1a and Fig. 1b. Entirely analogously, the first and second binding warp threads BK1, BK2 according to Figs. 16a and 16b are floatingly tied in for the same reason as described in relation to Figs. 2a and 2b.
[0028] Further, entirely analogously, the binding warp threads in Figs. 17a and 17b are tied in floatingly for the same reason as discussed in relation to Figs. 3a and 3b. As a result, in Figs. 17a and 17b, neither of the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 will contribute to the color formation on the pile side 20. In the weave according to Figs. 18a and 18b, finally, both binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 will each contribute to the color formation on the pile side 20. To that effect, the two binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 according to Figs. 18a and 18b are woven in a manner comparable to that discussed in relation to Figs. 4a and 4b.
[0029] As discussed, according to the invention, it has been made possible, using colored binding warp threads, to effect a color formation on the upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14. For instance, each first binding warp thread BK1 of Figs. 1a to 8b and Figs. 16a to 18b can have the same color. Similarly, the binding warp threads BK2 of these figures can each have the same color. Because at each point of the jacquard shadow velour it is possible that the first binding warp thread BK1, the second binding warp thread BK2, the first and second binding warp threads BK1, BK2, or neither of the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 contribute to the color formation of the pile side, a color pattern can be obtained on the pile side which is dependent on the color of the binding warp threads (The phrase "the color of the binding warp threads" does not preclude the possibility that different binding warp threads have mutually different colors; in other words, the color pattern is dependent on the color of each of the binding warp threads mentioned). If the first binding warp threads are of the same color, the second binding warp threads are of the same color, and the first and second binding warp threads are of mutually different colors, a color pattern of four different colors can be obtained.
[0030] More particularly, the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14 comprises a first color area in which the first binding warp thread BK1 is floatingly tied in on the upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, provided with the pile nap, while the second binding warp thread BK2 is floatingly tied in on the back 22 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, so that the color of the first binding warp thread BK1 is visible in the first color area. It is also possible that the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14 comprises a second color area in which the second binding warp thread BK2 is floatingly tied in on the upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, provided with the pile naps, while the first binding warp thread BK1 is floatingly tied in on the back 22 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, so that the color of the second binding warp thread is visible in the second color area. It is also possible that the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14 comprises a third color area in which the first and second binding warp threads BK1 and BK2 are floatingly tied in on the upper side 20 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, so that the color of the first and second binding warp threads are visible in the third color area. Finally, it is possible that the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14 comprises a fourth color area in which the first and second binding warp threads are floatingly tied in on the back 22 of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14, so that the color of the first and second binding warp threads BK2 is at least substantially not visible in the fourth color area. All this means, basically, that in the first color area, depending on the pile direction, the weave according to Figs. 1a, 1b; 5a, 5b; or 15a, 15b has been used. Then, in the second color area, depending on the pile direction, the weave according to Figs. 2a, 2b; 6a, 6b; or 16a, 16b has been used.
[0031] Entirely analogously, depending on the pile direction, in the third color area the weave according to Figs. 4a, 4b; 8a, 8b; or 18a, 18b has been used. Finally, depending on the pile direction, for the fourth color area, the weave according to Figs. 3a, 3b; 7a, 7b; or 17a, 17b has been used. Thus, by selective use of the first, second, third and/or fourth color areas a color pattern on the upper side can be obtained.
[0032] On the other hand, the jacquard shadow velour can further be provided with a shadow pattern that is formed by pile areas having mutually different pile directions of the pile naps. Because the color pattern can be provided entirely independently of the shadow pattern in that the choice of the weave of the binding warp threads is independent of the choice of the weave of the weft threads, the color areas and the pile areas can be provided completely independently of each other. Accordingly, each pile area can comprise a color area, a part of a color area, different color areas, or different parts of different color areas. Conversely, each color area can comprise a pile area, a part of a pile area, different pile areas and/or parts of different pile areas.
[0033] Preferably, the repeat of the binding warp threads corresponds to once or twice the repeat of the tension warp threads. This is the case with each of the weaves shown in Figs. 1a-8b and 15a-18b. The repeat of the binding warp thread is 6 here and the repeat of the tension warp thread is 3.
[0034] For obtaining still more color variations, the weft threads can also have mutually different colors.
[0035] Preferably, the weft threads consist of identical groups of weft threads, each group comprising p x n successive weft threads of mutually different colors, where p = 1, 2, 3, ...
[0036] If p = 1, for instance, a group can be formed by the first through the sixth weft threads. Then the pattern repeats itself.
[0037] According to another elaboration of the jacquard shadow velour according to the invention, n is an even number and the weft threads consist of identical groups of weft threads, each group consisting of n/2 successive weft threads having mutually different colors. In the example of the jacquard shadow velour according to Figs. 1a-8b and 15a-18b, n = 6. A group of differently colored weft threads can then consist of the weft threads 1, 2 and 3, and the weft threads 4, 5 and 6, respectively.
[0038] According to another variant of the invention, m=3 and n=6, and in the lying pile areas the second weft threads 2, 5 of the group of three weft threads 1, 2, 3; 4, 5, 6, embraced by a pile nap 18, with at least two mutually different colors, are at least substantially located in one plane; the first 1, 4 and third 3, 6 weft threads of the group are located below and above the plane, or above and below the plane, respectively; the pile direction in the lying pile areas is determined by the position of the first 1, 4 and third 3, 6 weft threads of the respective groups relative to the plane, while of each group the color of the first or third weft thread 1, 4; 3, 6 contributes to the color formation in the lying pile area in question. The second and third weft thread are located above the tension warp thread. Such a woven fabric can relate, for instance, to the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14 as shown in Figs. 1a-8b and 15a-18b. The second weft threads can be tied in the plane by weaving in pile warp threads PK sufficiently tightly.
[0039] It is also possible that the second weft threads are bound in the plane by the tension warp threads SK. This can be realized, for instance, in a jacquard shadow velour with a 3/6 W-pile through weave 1/2; 2/1 so that each weft thread is located in-between two tension warp threads associated with two adjacent reed dents 1 and 2. In contrast to what has been discussed in relation to the color formation by the binding warp threads, it holds for the color formation of the weft threads that the first and fourth weft threads in each case determine the color formation of a pile directed to the left and that the third and sixth weft threads determine the color formation of a pile directed to the right. Accordingly, it is not possible to bring out the color of a particular weft thread at will in a pile area directed to the right, a pile area directed to the left or a pile area with upright piles. Providing a color pattern using the binding warp threads accordingly affords greater freedom of choice than forming a color pattern using the weft threads. Preferably, the jacquard shadow velour comprises a shadow pattern that coincides with the color pattern formed by the binding warp threads. It is also possible that the color pattern formed by the weft threads coincides with the shadow pattern mentioned.
[0040] According to a further variant, the jacquard shadow velour is further provided with additional tied-in weft threads. Fig. 9 gives an example for a jacquard shadow velour with a 3/8-W-weave. Parts corresponding to Figs. 1a-8b and 15a-18b are provided with the same reference numerals. In the weave shown in Fig. 9, the additional weft threads 7, 8 are not embraced by the pile nap 18. The additional weft threads can, as shown, lie both above and below the tension and/or binding warp threads SK, BK1, BK2.
[0041] Fig. 10 shows a 4/8-W-pile through weave, where the additional weft threads 7, 8 are embraced by the pile nap. Here too, the additional weft threads 7, 8 can be located both above and below the tension and/or binding warp threads SK, BK1, BK2.
[0042] In the examples of Figs. 1a-8b and 15a-18b, the jacquard shadow velour comprises per tension warp a first and a second binding warp thread BK1, BK2. In Figs. 11a-14b, a jacquard shadow velour is shown where per tension warp only one binding warp thread BK is used. Again, a 3/6-W-pile through weave is involved here. In the situation as shown in Figs. 11a and 11b for the lying pile directed to the right, it holds that the binding warp thread BK is tied in in a way entirely analogous to that discussed with reference to Figs. 5a and 5b for the binding warp thread BK2. Because in Figs. 5a and 5b the binding warp thread BK2 does not contribute to the color formation on the upper side 20, this will not be the case either for the binding warp thread BK of Figs. 11a and 11b. Because in the weave according to Figs. 11a and 11b the binding warp BK1 such as it was present in Figs. 1a and 1b is omitted, at least, the binding warp threads in Figs. 11a and 11b do not contribute to the color formation on the upper side 20. Figs. 12a and 12b show the situation where the binding warp thread BK does contribute to the color formation on the upper side 20. Because the pile is directed to the right, the weave of the binding warp thread BK according to Figs. 12a and 12b corresponds to the weave of the binding warp thread BK2 according to Figs. 6a and 6b, respectively.
[0043] Entirely analogously, the binding warp thread BK can be tied in at a pile directed to the left, as shown in Figs. 1a and 1b for the binding warp thread BK1 when the binding warp thread BK is to impart color to the upper side. When the binding warp thread BK is not to impart any color to the upper side in a pile directed to the left, the binding warp thread BK can be tied in as shown in Fig. 1a and Fig. 1b for the binding warp thread BK 2.
[0044] When the binding warp thread BK is to contribute to the color formation on the upper side with an upright pile, the binding warp thread BK can be tied in as shown for the binding warp BK1 in Figs. 15a and 15b. When no contribution of the binding warp thread BK in a pile area with upright pile is needed, the binding warp thread BK can be tied in as discussed in relation to Figs. 15a and 15b for the binding warp thread BK2. Also for the jacquard shadow velours which are only provided with a single binding warp thread per tension warp thread, it holds that a color pattern can be formed which comprises at least one color area whose color is dependent on the color of the binding warp threads BK floatingly tied in in the color area on the pile-napped upper side of the jacquard shadow velour 12, 14.
[0045] In the embodiments discussed hereinbefore, the binding warp threads BK1 have the same color. It is also possible, however, to give the binding warp threads BK1 mutually different colors. The same applies to the binding warp threads BK2 and the binding warp threads BK. In general, however, the binding warp threads BK1 will have the same color. This also applies to the binding warp threads BK2, the binding warp threads BK, the tension warp threads SK and the pile warp threads PK.
[0046] Referring to Fig. 19, finally, a possible embodiment of the apparatus according to the invention for manufacturing a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention will be discussed in outline. The apparatus comprises an arrangement 30 with the ground beams. These ground beams comprise a unicolor pile warp 32, a unicolor tension warp 34 and a two-colored binding warp 36. The binding warp 36 comprises the binding warp threads BK1 and BK2. The pile warp is supplied to an apparatus 38, known per se, which determines the length of the pile. The apparatus further comprises a Jacquard attachment 40, with which the tension warp threads and the ground warp threads can be raised and lowered individually and independently of each other. Further, the apparatus comprises a shaft mechanism 42 by means of which the pile warp threads can be collectively raised or lowered. The apparatus further comprises a control unit 44 for controlling the shafts 42 and the Jacquard attachment 40. Further, the apparatus comprises a weft insertion system 46 for inserting the weft threads. Arranged downstream of the weft insertion system 46 is a reed 48. The apparatus further comprises a weft thread changer 50, which is coupled to the weft insertion system 46 for the purpose, if desired, of selectively inserting the weft threads. In this way the weft threads can be inserted while varying in color. Reference numeral 52 schematically indicates the position where the fabric formation occurs. Further, the apparatus comprises a cutting device 54 for separating the upper woven fabric 12 and the lower woven fabric 14 from each other. The weft thread changer 50 in this example is synchronized with the Jacquard attachment 40. Also, the weft thread changer 50 is synchronized with the shafts 42. In this example, this is realized in that the Jacquard attachment 40, the shafts 42 and the weft thread changer 50 are each controlled by the control unit 44. The control unit 44 can be designed as a computer, known per se. For manufacturing a jacquard shadow velour according to the invention, therefore, preferably use is made of a double work weaving machine as discussed with reference to Fig. 19. It is also conceivable, however, that other kinds of weaving machines are used.
[0047] The invention is not limited in any way to the embodiments outlined hereinbefore. Thus, other types of weaves can be used, such as 3/7-, 5/10-, 3/8-, 4/10-W-pile through weaves. In each of these weaves, the weft threads too can be inserted so as to vary in color. Also, in each of these weaves, additional weft threads can be inserted as discussed hereinbefore.