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(11) | EP 0 913 512 A1 |
| (12) | EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION |
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| (54) | Method and apparatus for producing tassels |
| (57) Individual tassels are produced by laying groupsof loops of tassel tuft yarn (E)
into warp stitch chains at opposite ends of the loops, an elastic material (A,B) being
used for the stitch chain or chains at one end. A further yarn (D) is laid in loops
extending from the elastic stitch chain or chanis and away from the tuft loops to
provide a hinging loop for each group of tuft loops. The ends of the loops of the
further yarn re each woven into a plurality of stitches of the or each elastic stitch
chain. Severing the elastic stitch chain or chains and removal of the stitch chain
at the other end of the tuft loops together with the loop bends at that end yields
a series of separate tassels each with a securely attached hanging loop. The invention
also includes apparatus for producing individual tassels. |
[0002] It is known to employ a type of weaving machine, known as a crochet machine or a galloon crochet machine, to weave narrow fabrics in ornamental forms for furnishing trimmings such as fringes and galloons. Examples of these machines are described in GB 2063772A, FR 2506349A, DD 134790 and SU 162076. Such machines can, for example, be operated to produce an ornamental narrow fabric which comprises a tassel-like fringe, as is illustrated in FR 2506349.
[0003] These known machines perform a process in which warp yarns, are crochet-stitched into extended stitch chains, with which weft yarns are inlaid to produce the fabrics. By selecting the number and the spacing of the warp yarns, and by varying the pattern of the weft yarns, for example forming lengthy loops in some passes, and the positions in which they are inserted in the stitch chains, different ornamental effects can be produced.
[0004] It has thus been proposed (GB 2063772A and FR 2506349) to use such a machine to produce a narrow fabric with a tassel-like fringe in which a first weft yarn or yarns is inlaid to form an essentially continuous heading and, for the fringe, a further weft yarn is formed into groups of elongate weft loops at intervals along the length of the heading, but offset from the heading and connected thereto by extended loops drawn out from the heading. The fringe weft loops are inlaid into stretched elastic warp yarns at their ends adjacent the heading and the elastic warp yarns are cut to separate the groups of weft loops from each other. The release of the tension in the elastic warp yarns when they are cut causes the loops of each group of weft loops to become bunched together to give the effect of a knob or knot hanging from the heading and the bends at the other ends of each group of weft loops are then trimmed off to separate the legs of the loops which then form a tassel tuft. The resulting effect is of a series of spaced tassel-like appendages hanging from the heading.
[0005] These earlier proposals are not suitable, however, for producing individual tassels that are to be separated from each other. If the continuous heading is removed, the yarn from which the tassel tuft hangs can easily become detached when the tassel is pulled. Furthermore, when the tension is released from the elastic stitch chain it is found that the tassel tuft loops tend to bunch unevenly and have only a superficial resemblance to the knot a conventionally formed tassel, which may be less critical when they are used merely as a furnishing trimming.
[0006] It is an object of the present invention to provide a method and means by which individual tassels can be formed from a continuously knitted fabric while one or more of these problems can at least be ameliorated.
[0007] According to one aspect of the invention, there is provided a method for producing a tassel including the steps of forming a chain of stitches from at least one elastic yarn while holding the yarn under tension, inlaying at least one further yarn into loops of said stitches as they are formed to produce at least one yarn loop from which a tassel tuft is to be formed and at least one further yarn loop extending away from said tassel tuft loop to produce a hanging loop for the tassel, said further loop having opposite loop ends which are each woven into a plurality of elastic thread stitches.
[0008] Preferably, said tassel loop is formed from a first one or more weft yarns, said further loop or at least one said further loop is formed from a second one or more weft yarns and, between the loop ends of said further loop, said at least one tassel loop yarn or yarns and said further loop yarn or yarns are displaced relative to each other in a direction transverse to the plane of the loops. It is found that such a step can improve the appearance at the top of the tuft where the gathered loops are intended to simulate the knot or head of a conventional tassel.
[0009] Preferably, at least one further length of yarn is used to form only tufts of the tassels and an additional length of yarn is used to form the hanging loops. However it is also possible to use the hanging loop yarn to also form a tassel tuft loop, preferably to supplement one or more separate further yarn loops of the tassel tuft.
[0010] According to a further aspect of the invention, there is provided a method for forming tassels including the steps of producing a stitch chain from at least one elastic yarn while holding the yarn under tension, forming at least one loop of tassel yarn which is inlaid with stitches of the tensioned chain as they are produced, forming a loop from a further yarn to provide a hanging loop comprising two legs joined by a bend spaced away from said at least one tassel yarn loop, the end of each leg of said hanging loop being engaged with a plurality of said stitches of the tensioned chain and, between said ends of said further loop, displacing said tassel and hanging loop yarns relative to each other in a direction transverse to the loops and said stitch chain to reverse the positions of said yarns in said direction at least once in the course of the loops of a tassel, said yarn loops being gathered together by release of tension in the elastic chain and said gathered loops, each with a hanging loop, being separated by severing the chain to form the individual tassels.
[0011] According to yet another aspect of the invention apparatus is provided for use in producing tassels comprising means for forming at least one elastic warp yarn chain under tension, means for forming a first series of loops of weft yarn and inlaying one end region of said loops with spaced groups of stitches of said warp yarn chain, means for forming at least one further weft yarn loop for each said group of stitches with each of a pair of legs of said further loop engaged with a plurality of stitches of said group of stitches, and with a bend of the loop joining said legs spaced from the associated loop or loops of the first series, and means for severing the first series of loops remote from said one end region to form a series of individual tufts extending from said end region, whereby each said further loop can provide a hanging loop for the associated tufts of said loop or loops of the first series.
[0012] Preferably, means are also provided for relative displacement between the yarn forming said first series of logs and said further loops to reverse the positions of said yarns in a direction transverse to the stitch chain and said first series of loops at least once during the formation of the first series of loops.
[0013] By way of example, the invention will be described in more detail with reference to the accompanying schematic drawings, in which:
Fig. 1 is a fragmentary illustration of a galloon crochet machine arranged for operation in accordance with the method of the invention,
Fig. 1a shows a completed tassel,
Fig. 2 is a block diagram of the control system for the machine of Fig.1,
Fig. 3 is a diagrammatic illustration of a fabric that can be produced with the galloon crochet machine of Fig. 1, and in accordance with the method of the invention,
Fig. 4a is a similar illustration to Fig. 3 of a further example,
Fig. 4b is a table showing the relative displacements of the weft threads in forming the fabric pattern of Fig. 4a, and
Fig. 5 is an oblique schematic view of a loop pattern to illustrate another example of relative lateral displacements of the tassel loop and hanging loop yarns.
[0014] The mechanisms of the galloon crochet machine shown in Fig. 1 are mainly conventional in form and the machine is therefore only illustrated fragmentarily. Warp guides 2 for a series of warp yarns are mounted at the required locations on a warping bar 4. Each guide has an eye 2a at its leading end through which a warp yarn is threaded and, in known manner, it is connected to a drive mechanism, which is not shown in the drawing, to perform a circulatory motion by reciprocation of the bar 4 and vertical rocking of the warp guides on the bar. Opposite the warping bar is a trick plate or bed 6 extending parallel to the bar, transversely across the machine frame where a series of conventional barbed or latch needles 8, one for each warp yarn, are mounted side by side and are slidable in respective slots 6a of the trick plate towards and away from the warping bar.
[0015] Guide tubes 10 for weft inlay yarns are mounted on carrier rods 12 above a hold-back bar 14 located between the warp guides and the trick plate. The carrier rods 12 are axially displaceable parallel to the hold-back bar 14 to move the guide tubes 10 transversely of the machine frame, and are rotatable on their own axes to move the guide tubes forwards and backwards. The guide tubes 10 are also displaceable upwardly and downwardly on the carrier rods 12. Retainer hooks 18 mounted on pivots (not shown) below the hold-back bar 14 project above the bar and are pivotable rearwardly and downwardly onto the top surface of the bar to hold the weft yarns as they are laid by the guide tubes 10.
[0016] The warp yarns fed through are formed into stitch chains or wales by the motions of the yarn guides and needles in known manner (see, for example "Knitting Technology" (2nd Edn.), D.J Spencer, Pergamon Press, 1989, pages 283-287). The chains are drawn downwardly over the rear of the hold-back bar 14 by tensioning rollers 24. In the example illustrated, there is a pair of closely spaced warp yarns A,B each consisting of elastic material and one non-elastic warp yarn C spaced more widely from the first pair. The rollers 24 apply a tension that extends the elastic yarns A,B to several times their relaxed length. Other numbers and grouping of the warp yarns can be used, but in most instances there will be at least one pair of closely spaced elastic warp yarns.
[0017] The illustrated example shows two displaceable weft guide tubes 10, one of which carries a single weft yarn C that will be termed the loop yarn and the other of which carries a pair of weft yarns D that will be termed skirt yarns. In principle, more tubular weft guides and more weft yarns can be employed, and any of the guide tubes may carry single or multiple yarns, but in most instances only a single loop yarn will be required and the loop yarn will be supplied through its own guide tube.
[0018] The mechanisms described are operated in sequence by a micro-processor 30, as shown schematically in Fig. 2, which has a store 32 into which the required cycle of operations can be programmed. The microprocessor 30 has a central processing unit 34 for actuating and coordinating the operations of a tensioning roller drive control unit 36 for actuating a tensioning roller drive 38, a crochet stitch control unit 40 for actuating warp guide drives 42 and barbed needle drives 44, a weft yarn axial control unit 46 for actuating the drives 48 displacing the weft guide tubes 10 axially of the carrier rods 12, a weft yarn rotary control unit 50 for actuating the drives 52 displacing the weft guide tubes 10 forwards and rearwards, a retainer hook drive control 52 for actuating drives 54 each pivoting a respective retainer hook, and a knife control unit 56 for operating a yarn-cutting knife 58 after the formation of the yarn loops.
[0019] Each cycle of operations begins with a command to the tensioning roller drive control 36 to step the rollers 24 in order to draw the warp yarns forwards towards the needle bed and, after the advance of the yarns, the crochet stitch drive control 40 actuates the needle and guide motions to knock over the previously formed stitch and to form a further stitch in each warp stitch chain in known manner. During this process for some of the stitches, as determined by the program, the weft yarn guide drive control units 46,50 are operated to draw the weft yarns along the hold-back bar 14 onto the warp yarns so that the weft yarns are inlaid into the stitches being formed and, if required, to adjust the relative positions of the different warp yarns in a direction towards and away from the trick plate 6. The retainer hook drive control unit 52 is operated for each hook 18 in coordination with the movements of the weft guide tubes 10 to hold the weft yarns looped, after they have been laid to the required positions along the hold-back bar 14, until the loops have been secured fast by the completion of the stitch in each warp yarn.
[0020] The skirt yarns D are laid as groups of loops extending between and having their ends caught by the pair of elastic yarns A,B and the non-elastic yarn C respectively, so that the bends of the loops, in particular adjacent the elastic yarns A,B, project a short distance beyond the stitch chains. As will be described in more detail below, the loop yarn E follows most of the path of the skirt yarns but in each group of skirt yarn loops it is formed into an elongate loop that is held by its ends in the pair of elastic warp yarns and that extends away from that pair of warp yarns in the opposite direction to the skirt yarn loops.
[0021] The continuous fabric strip formed by the inlaying of the weft yarns to the stitch chains follows a path past the knife, scissors or other cutting device 58 which is located between the hold-back bar and the tensioning rollers and which is operable to sever the tail ends of the looped weft yarns, namely that edge of the strip in which the non-elastic yarn C is situated. The yarn c, and the looped over ends of the weft yarns, are then discarded, leaving the main lengths of the weft yarns as separate tufts, held by the elastic stitch chains A,B only.
[0022] As already described, the process is intended to produce a series of individual, separated tassels, and beyond the tensioning rollers 24, the groups of looped weft yarns are separated from each other by severing the elastic stitch chains in the spaces between the groups, at locations indicated by the arrows K in Fig. 3. This may be done manually or by mechanical means (not shown), or the product may be supplied to the end user as a continuous length for the tassels to be separated when required. In each case, when the tension is removed from the elastic yarns, because of the twist given to the yarns in forming the stitches and because the stitches are formed non-symmetrically around the weft yarns, the crochet stitch chain of each tassel curls around on itself. That produces a bunching of the short bend portions of the weft yarn loops projecting from the elastic warp chains, to give the appearance of a conventional tassel knot or knob N as shown in Fig. 1a. The extended loop L of the weft loop yarn projects away from the bunched skirt yarn tufts to form a hanging loop for the tassel. If required for appearance sake, the tuft yarns T of the tassel skirt can be untwisted to separate their threads.
[0023] Fig. 3 illustrates in more detail one example of the sequence of operations. In particular, it shows the inlaying of the weft yarns D,E relative to the formation of the stitches of the crochet stitch chains. As described with reference to Fig. 1, two or more closely spaced stitch chains A',B' of elastic yarn are produced in parallel from the elastic warp yarns A,B and a stitch chain C' of the non-elastic yarn C is produced simultaneously as a holding chain, spaced from the elastic yarn stitch chains A',B' by a distance slightly greater than the intended tassel tuft length.
[0024] The three weft yarns, namely the single hanging loop yarn D and the pair of skirt yarns E, are inlaid into the stitches of the stitch chains A',B',C' from the two guide tubes 10 as already described. Fig. 3 shows all the operative positions 18' of the retaining hooks 18 in relation to the yarn loops, but it will be understood that as soon as a weft yarn loop is securely locked into the stitch chains the associated retaining hook is retracted and the fabric is drawn further through the machine. It is also to be understood that at each location in Fig. 3 at which a loop yarn is shown crossing a stitch chain it is inlaid or woven into a stitch of that chain.
[0025] The skirt yarns E are laid in a series of uniform length groups of elongate yarn loops. The pattern of the hanging loop yarn D, indicated by the full line, follows the skirt yarns between the groups of loops and along the initial and final legs of each group of loops. Between those initial and final legs it follows a zig-zag pattern path, being drawn out beyond the skirt loops to form the hanging loop, to each side of which it is doubled through the elastic stitch chains A',B'. It will be seen that this results in each end of the hanging loop being inlaid or woven into three stitches of each elastic chain. It is possible to inlay the yarn ends into more than three stitches if a still stronger connection is required.
[0026] Preferably, one or both of the hanging loop yarns and the tassel yarn is also given a motion out of the plane of the loops, ie. transverse to the loops and the warp stitch chains, so that their positions are transposed in that transverse direction during the formation of the hanging loop. As already mentioned, this is achieved by rotating one or both carrier rods 12, on which the guide tubes 10 of the weft yarns are mounted, by the rotary drive control unit. Thus, in the example shown in Fig. 3, when a group of loops begin to be inlaid into the elastic warp chains, after the hanging loop yarn has had a first shorter loop D1 inlaid with the elastic warp chains, the carrier rods 12 are pivoted to reverse the positions of the hanging loop and tassel loop yarns in the direction perpendicular to the plane of the figure. The positions are reversed again after the formation of the elongate hanging loop so that the yarns are returned to their original relative locations perpendicular to the plane of the figure when the final short loop D2 is inlaid into the warp stitch chain.
[0027] By way of further illustration, Fig. 4 shows a diagram of another pattern of weft yarns in relation to a numbered sequence of successive warp chain stitches, and the table of Fig. 4b sets out in relation to the sequence of warp chain stitches the displacements of the weft yarns forming the loops (x direction) and changing the relative positions of the yarns perpendicular to the plane of the diagram (z direction). The displacements are shown in arbitrary units and indicate only the relative displacements in each direction.) In other examples there may be additional displacements in the z direction where the hanging loop ends are inlaid into the warp chain stitches.
[0028] It is also possible to perform a single change of relative position between the skirt and hanging loop yarns, as the return leg of the hanging loop is formed. The positions of the skirt and hanging loop yarns are thus reversed for each leg of the hanging loop. This arrangement is shown in Fig. 5, from which it can be seen that the displacement takes place in opposite directions in successive zig-zag tassel patterns. For clarity, the multiple loops for the tassel skirt are not shown in Fig. 5.
[0029] As already described, after the tension in the thread chains is released and elastic thread chains are severed at locations to separate each complete yarn pattern, the contraction of each group of elastic stitches holding the loop yarns bunches those yarns together where they are held by the stitches to give the appearance of a knot or knob from one side of which the hanging loop extends and from the other side of which extend the individual tufts of both the skirt yarns and the hanging loop yarns, formed when the ends of the loops held in the non-elastic stitch chain are removed. It is found that, particularly if there has been the transverse displacement of the loop yarn is described with reference to Fig. 4 or Fig. 5, the elastic stitches tend to give a strongly directional bias curling the bunched bends of the heads of the tassel tufts around on themselves to enhance the simulation of a tassel knob. If required, the threads of the free ends of the tufts can be untwisted, and the fibres separated, to complete the formation of the tassel tuft.
[0030] When the hanging loop is employed to attach the tassel in use, it is found that the multiple passes of the ends of the hanging loop yarn through the elastic chains, as well as influencing the bias at the heads of the tufts when the elastic stitch chains contract, provides the firm attachment needed to bear the expected loads on the tassel.
[0031] It is possible to inlay more or fewer weft yarn passes in the skirt of the fabric, depending on the type of yarn used and the degree of fullness required for the tassel tufts. It is also possible to inlay the hanging loop only into the elastic thread chains, ie. not drawing out that yarn to form tassel tufts.
[0032] There are many other possibilities for varying the form of the tassels, depending upon the types of yarn used to form the skirt loops and hanging loops, for example, and the relative spacing of the loops in the elastic stitch chains. If the hanging loop yarn is very thick compared with any other weft yarn, it may be inlaid into separate stitches of the elastic stitch chain from those receiving the other weft yarn or yarns. Also, the final appearance of the hanging loop can be varied in dependence upon the locations at which the hanging loop yarn is laid into the elastic stitch chain or chains relative to the chain stitches and to the skirt loop yarn or yarns.
1. A method of producing tassels including the steps of forming a chain of stitches from
at least one elastic warp yarn while holding the yarn under tension, inlaying at least
one weft yarn into said stitches as they are formed to produce at least one loop from
which a tassel tuft is to be formed and at least one further loop extending away from
said tuft loop to provide a hanging loop for the tassel, said further loop having
opposite loop ends which are each inlaid into a plurality of stitches of said chain
of warp yarn stitches.
2. Method according to claim 1 wherein at least two weft yarns are inlaid into said elastic
yarn chain, and at least one of the weft yarns providing only a tassel tuft loop or
loops.
3. Method according to claim 1 or claim 2 in which said tassel loop or at least one said
tassel loop is formed from a first one or more weft yarns and said further loop or
at least one said further loop is formed from a second one or more weft yarns and,
between the loop ends of said further loop, said at least one tassel loop yarn or
yarns and said further loop yarn or yarns are displaced relative to each other in
a direction transverse to the plane of the loops.
4. Method according to claim 3 wherein said at least one further loop comprises a pair
of legs, said loop ends extending from said legs and being inlaid into the elastic
stitches from the opposite side of said first one or more weft yarns to that on which
said loop legs are disposed.
5. Method according to claim 3 wherein said loop ends are inlaid into the elastic stitches
from opposite sides of said first one or more weft yarns.
6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the yarn forming the hanging
loop also extends along the length of said at least one tassel tuft loop.
7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the loops are inlaid into
at least two parallel elastic yarn chains at one end of the tassel tuft loops, and
at least one further thread chain at the opposite end of the tassel tuft loops, said
further chain and the ends of the tuft loops inlaid into it being subsequently removed
to leave free yarn lengths forming the tassel tufts.
8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the hanging loop yarn
is held only by the elastic thread chain or chains at said one end of the tassel tuft
loops as they are formed.
9. A method for forming tassels including the steps of producing a stitch chain from
at least one elastic yarn while holding the yarn under tension, forming at least one
loop of tassel yarn which is inlaid with stitches of the tensioned chain as they are
produced, forming a loop from a further yarn to provide a hanging loop comprising
two legs joined by a bend spaced away from said at least one tassel yarn loop, the
end of each leg of said hanging loop being engaged with a plurality of said stitches
of the tensioned chain and, between said ends of said further loop, displacing said
tassel and hanging loop yarns relative to each other in a direction transverse to
the loops and said stitch chain to reverse the positions of said yarns in said direction
at least once in the course of the loops of a tassel, said yarn loops being gathered
together by release of tension in the elastic chain and said gathered loops, each
with a hanging loop, being separated by severing the chain to form the individual
tassels.
10. Apparatus for producing a tasselled length of fabric from which individual tassels
can be severed, comprising means for forming at least one elastic warp yarn chain
under tension, means for forming a first series of loops of weft yarn and inlaying
one end region of said loops with spaced groups of stitches of said warp yarn chain,
means for forming at least one further weft yarn loop for each said group of stitches
with each of a pair of legs of said further loop engaged with a plurality of stitches
of said group of stitches, and with a bend of the loop joining said legs spaced from
the associated loop or loops of the first series, and means for severing the first
series of loops remote from said one end region to form a series of individual tufts,
whereby on severing said warp yarn chain between said groups of stitches separate
tassels are formed in each of which said further loop provides a hanging loop for
the tassel and the yarn of said loop or loops of the first series provides tufts of
the tassel.
11. Apparatus according to claim 10 wherein means for provided for relative displacement
between the yarns forming said first series of loops and said further loops to reverse
the positions of said yarns in a direction transverse to the stitch chain and said
weft yarn loops
12. Apparatus according to claim 8 or claim 9 comprising means for producing, from the
yarn of said further loops, additional loops for the tassel tufts.
13. A tassel comprising a plurality of tufts formed from a plurality of open-ended tuft
loops gathered together at their looped ends by at least one elastic stitch chain,
and a hanging loop arranged to extend away from said tuft loops and having a pair
of loop ends each inlaid in a plurality of stitches of said elastic stitch chain.