Cord-finish-edge warp-woven article of manufacture, crochet galloon machine and process for warp weaving of same

Abstract

 A warp-woven article of manufacture (1) comprises a plurality of parallel chains (2) formed by warp threads, at least one weft thread (4, 7) having successive lengths (4a, 7a) interlooped with the warp threads and a cord (5) parallel to the chain (2) extension at a fabric edge (6) and held by connecting portions (4b, 7b) between successive lengths of the weft thread disposed astride the cord itself. A process for warp weaving this article of manufacture (1) comprises an operation involving laying down of at least one weft thread (4, 7), which operation is performed by movements of the relative threading tube (12, 14) extending astride a tubular cord guide (13), so that the cord itself (5) is interlaced by the weft thread (4, 7). Also disclosed is a crochet galloon machine (17) for carrying said warp weaving process into practice.

Description

[0001] The present invention relates to a cord-finish-edge warp-woven article of manufacture and to a process and a crochet galloon machine for warp weaving the article of manufacture which is of a type comprising a plurality of parallel chains formed of warp threads and defined by successive sequences of weaving stitches transverse to the longitudinal-extension direction of the chains themselves, at least one weft thread having successive lengths each interlooped with said sequence of weaving stitches, and at least a cord disposed parallelly of the extension direction of the chains at a fabric edge, in order to define said cord-finish edge.

[0002] It is known that some types of woven articles of manufacture such as ribbons used for making zip-fasteners or finishing garment edges, or for still other uses in which the presence of a raised region in the form of a rib is required, have at least one cord-finish edge, that is one edge provided with a cord included in the fabric loops during the weaving work.

[0003] For making the above mentioned articles of manufacture, it is possible to use crochet galloon machines of the type comprising a front grooved bar where a plurality of needles disposed in side by side relationship and simultaneously moved in the direction of their longitudinal extension operates. There is also a plurality of eye-pointed needles operating in front of the needles and through which the warp threads pass.

[0004] Cooperation between the needles and eye-pointed needles gives rise to a plurality of chains, the number of which corresponds to that of the warp threads, perpendicularly descending from the front grooved bar and defined by successive sequences of weaving stitches disposed in side by side relationship and transverse to the extension direction of the chains themselves.

[0005] Chains are interlaced with at least one weft thread carried by a respective threading tube and moved by transverse-movement means adapted to transmit a reciprocating translation to said tube in a direction parallel to the longitudinal extension of the front grooved bar. Other means carries out the relative raising and lowering movements between the threading tube and the needles. Practically, each weft thread is selectively laid down, by successive lengths, astride The needles and passes under said needles when they reach the return end-of-stroke. Each length of the weft thread put under the needles is interlooped by the warp threads in the weaving stitch sequence formed during the subsequent operating cycle.

[0006] At the edge which is intended for receiving a cord, a tubular cord guide adapted to engage a respective cord is arranged.

[0007] Usually, in the known art use of two threading tubes for two respective weft threads disposed on opposite sides relative to the plane containing the tubular cord guide is provided, so that the cord is included between the weft threads and the two chains of the warp thread that are closest to the fabric edge where it is to be put. Practically, the cord is laterally held by the outermost chain interlooping and engaging the end portions of successive weft thread lengths with each other.

[0008] While the above described known art enables crochet galloon machines to be used for forming cord-finish-edge articles of manufacture, it however has some serious drawbacks.

[0009] First of all the cord is not incorporated into the fabric in a sure and steady manner enabling it to resist strong stresses, such as those exerted by the teeth of a zip-fastener anchored to the cord itself, for example. In fact, if the warp thread of the outermost chain should be torn, releasing of all chain stitches defined by said thread would easily occur which would result in the corresponding disengagement of the weft thread externally of the cord that in this case will be no longer held within the fabric. In addition, from an aesthetic point of view, the fabric does not appear perfectly finished because its cord-finish edge does not end with the substantially cylindrical surface of the cord, but with the indentation of the connecting loops between the successive lengths of each weft thread.

[0010] The cord-finish-edge articles of manufacture can be also obtained by use of needle looms in which two warp thread courses are exchanged with a reciprocating motion for interlooping the weft threads laid down by the needle.

[0011] By this technical solution the cord, externally surrounded by the weft thread wound around it always in the same direction, often is not exactly located at a symmetric position relative to the fabric plane because it tends to move and partly overlap the warp threads adjacent thereto.

[0012] In addition, covering of the cord by the weft thread sometimes does not occur completely so that the cord can be easily visible thus giving rise to an unaesthetic effect, above all if the cord is of different colour from the fabric threads.

[0013] Under this situation, the technical task underlying the present invention is to devise a cord-finish-edge warp-woven article of manufacture, a process and a crochet galloon machine for warp weaving the article of manufacture, which are capable of substantially obviating the mentioned drawbacks.

[0014] Within the scope of this technical task, it is an important aim of the invention to devise a warp-woven article of manufacture which is provided with a cord for forming a raised edge steadily engaged within the fabric and also capable of resisting strong external stresses without removal or displacement of the cord taking place.

[0015] Another important aim of the invention is to devise a warp-woven article of manufacture in which the cord forming the raised edge thereof is well incorporated into the fabric and consequently completely concealed.

[0016] It is a further aim of the invention to devise a process and a crochet galloon machine enabling accomplishment of improved cord-finish-edge articles of manufacture as compared with known articles obtained by crochet galloon machines or needle looms, the improvement relating both to the steadiness and the aesthetic effect of the interlooping operation for including the cord provided in said articles of manufacture.

[0017] The technical task mentioned and the aims specified are substantially achieved by a cord-finish-edge article of manufacture which is characterized in that said weft thread at said cord-finish edge has connecting portions between said successive lengths disposed astride said cord in a manner adapted to interloop the cord itself.

[0018] The technical task mentioned and the aims specified are also achieved by a process for warp weaving a cord-finish-edge article of manufacture which is characterized in that it comprises an operation involving deposit of at least one weft thread obtained by movements of the related threading tube extending astride said tubular cord guide, so that the cord is interlaced by the weft thread.

[0019] The technical task mentioned and the aims specified are also achieved by a crochet galloon machine for warp weaving of a cord-finish-edge article of manufacture which is characterized in that it comprises means for substantially moving said at least one threading tube in a longitudinal direction to transmit an exchange movement to said tube astride the tubular cord guide, which exchange movement is substantially parallel to the longitudinal-extension direction of the needles, so that, with respect to the tubular cord guide, said at least one threading tube on the whole performs a relative movement partly circumscribing the tubular cord guide itself.

[0020] Description of a preferred non-exclusive embodiment of a cord-finish-edge warp-woven article of manufacture, a process and a crochet galloon machine for warp weaving the article itself in accordance with the present invention is now given hereinafter, by way of non-limiting example, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

• Fig. 1 is a perspective view showing a fabric pattern in accordance with the invention;
• Fig. 2 diagrammatically shows a face of the fabric seen in Fig. 1;
• Fig. 3 is a diagram showing how a first weft thread of the article of manufacture shown in Fig. 2 is laid down and wound around a cord;
• Fig. 4 is a diagram showing how a second weft thread of the article of manufacture shown in Fig. 2 is laid down and wound around a cord;
• Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9 reproduce a sequence of successive steps of the process of the invention;
• Fig. 10 is an elevation front view partly in section of a portion of the crochet galloon machine of the invention; and
• Fig. 11 diagrammatically shows the machine portion seen in Fig. 10, in a plan view.

[0021] With reference to the drawings, the cord-finish-edge warp-woven article of manufacture in accordance with the invention has been generally identified by reference numeral 1.

[0022] It consists of a plurality of parallel chains 2 formed of the same number of warp threads and defined by successive sequences of weaving stitches 3 transverse to the longitudinal-extension direction of the chains. At least one first weft thread 4 has successive lengths 4a each interlooped with a respective sequence of weaving stitches 3 and connected with each other on the fabric edges by connecting portions 4b. A cord 5 is arranged parallelly of the longitudinal-extension direction of chains 2 at a fabric edge 6 so as to define a cord-finish, ie. raised, edge.

[0023] In an original manner, at edge 6 at least part of the connecting portions 4b of the successive lengths 4a of the weft thread 4 is arranged astride cord 5, so that said cord is interlooped and included between the connecting portions 4b themselves and the outermost chain 2, that is the chain closest to edge 6.

[0024] More specifically, the weft thread 4 has its successive lengths 4a divided into pairs 4c of adjacent lengths alternately arranged at diametrically opposite sides of the cord, so that each pair 4c has two portions 4b for connection with the preceding and following pairs wound up astride the cord 5 in a mutually opposite direction.

[0025] Advantageously, the article of manufacture also has a second weft thread 7 having pairs of successive lengths 7a arranged in the same manner as those of the first weft thread 4 so that for each pair of its adjacent lengths 7c disposed on one side of cord 5 there is one pair 4c of the first weft thread 4 disposed on the opposite side (see Figs. 2, 3, 4).

[0026] Practically, the connecting portions 4b of each pair 4c of adjacent lengths 4a of the first weft thread 4 are crossed in an opposite winding direction with connecting portions 7b of a corresponding pair 7c of adjacent lengths 7a of the second weft thread 7.

[0027] The above described woven article of manufacture is advantageously made by a process in accordance with the present invention the operating steps of which are shown in Figs. 5-9.

[0028] This process is put into practice by a crochet galloon machine comprising a plurality of needles 8 disposed consecutively in side by side relationship along a front grooved bar 9. Corresponding eye-pointed needles 10, each arranged to engage a warp thread, are disposed consecutively in side by side relationship and supported by a guide bar 11 disposed parallelly of the front grooved bar 9 in front of needles 8.

[0029] At least one first threading tube 12 is such arranged as to engage a respective weft thread 4 and a tubular cord guide 13 is arranged in a fixed position so as to engage the cord 5 adapted to define the cord-finish edge 6 of the article of manufacture.

[0030] Advantageously, in addition to the first threading tube 12, a second threading tube 14 is provided for a second weft thread 7 disposed on the opposite side from the weft thread of the first threading tube 12 in respect of the tubular cord guide 13.

[0031] In a manner known per se, the process comprises some operations in which first of all a relative movement is imparted to the needles 8 and eye-pointed needles 10, which movement is adapted to create the plurality of parallel chains 2 previously described.

[0032] In combination with the relative movement of needles 8 and eye-pointed needles 10, laying down and interlooping of the successive lengths of each weft thread 4,7 with the weaving stitches is carried out. Cord 5 is fed by the tubular cord guide 13 parallelly of the extension direction of chains 2 in a position corresponding to the edge 6 of the article of manufacture in which the cord-finish edge is provided. In an original manner the weftthreads laying down operation is performed by movements of the threading tubes 12 and 14 extending astride the tubular cord guide 13 so that cord 5 is interlaced with the weft threads 4, 7. These movements of the threading tubes 12 and 14 comprise successive complete backward and forward strokes of each threading tube disposed alternately on opposite sides relative to the tubular cord guide 13.

[0033] In more detail, the process in accordance with the invention on the whole comprises the following operating steps illustrated in Figs. 5-9 in which, for the sake of simplicity, only one needle 8 and a corresponding eye-pointed needle 10 are shown.

[0034] A first step is reproduced in Fig. 5 in which needles 8 are in an advanced position, threading tubes 12 and 14 are lifted above and to the right of the needles concerned with the article of manufacture accomplishment and the eye-pointed needle 10 is located above and to the left of the needle.

[0035] Starting from the first-step position, the threading tubes 12 and 14 move to the left in the direction of arrow 15 and lay down the respective weft threads 4, 7 over needles 8. Simultaneously, the eye-pointed needle 10 moves to the right above needle 8 in the direction of arrow 16 and subsequently, after moving downwardly to a lower level than the needle, carries out a translation to the left circumscribing the longitudinal axis of the needle itself, while the needle moves backwardly from the advanced position for engaging the warp thread.

[0036] At the end of translation to the left, the threading tubes 12 and 14 are lowered relative to the needles, while the needles are completely retracted and the eye-pointed needle is in a lowered position to the left of the needle. This situation corresponds to the second step shown in Fig. 6.

[0037] Starting from the second step, needles 8 move forward above the weft threads 4, 7 and at the end of their moving forward, the threading tubes 12, 14 and eye-pointed needle 10 take a raised position for starting the subsequent translation to the right. The last-mentioned situation corresponds to the third step shown in Fig. 7.

[0038] Between the third and fourth (shown in Fig. 8) steps the threading tubes 12 and 14 perform the backward or return stroke above needles 8 and lay down a second length of their respective weft threads 4, 7 and then take a lowered position relative to needles 8. Practically, each threading tube 12 and 14 during the forward stroke and backward stroke shown in Figs. 5 to 8 lays down two weft lengths disposed on the same side relative to the tubular cord-guide 13 and/or the lying plane of the article of manufacture.

[0039] While needles 8 are being retracted, the eye-pointed needle 10, after carrying out a displacement above the needle and to the right thereof, is lowered and moves to the left going back to the same position as in the second step shown in Fig. 6.

[0040] In the fifth step shown in Fig. 9 the needles have already completed their forward movement and the threading tubes 12 and 14, after rising, have carried out an exchange step with respect to the tubular cord-guide 13 and therefore have reached the position intended for carrying out a new complete backward and forward stroke in the same manner as already shown in the previous steps referred to in Figs. 5 to 8. Practically, each complete backward and forward stroke of the threading tubes 12 and 14 is followed by an exchange step of the position of the threading tubes in which crossing between the weft threads 4, 7 engaged in the tubes is carried out, so that each pair 4c, 7c of weft thread lengths laid down by each threading tube in the backward and forward strokes is disposed successively to a preceding pair laid down on the same fabric side by the other threading tube in the preceding cycle.

[0041] The invention also puts into practice a new crochet galloon machine for warp weaving of cord-finish-edge articles of manufacture, which also is an integral part of the present patent and is generally denoted by 17 in Figs. 10 and 11, where this machine is only partly shown.

[0042] It comprises transverse-movement means 18 for the threading tubes 12 and 14 adapted to transmit a reciprocating translation "A" to the tubes, which is parallel to the longitudinal extension of the front grooved bar 9. In addition to devices not shown as known per se, the transverse-movement means 18 comprises two longitudinally-movable tubular guide carriers 19 and 20, adapted to engage the threading tube 12 and threading tube 14, respectively.

[0043] The tubular guide carriers 19 and 20 are also submitted to a vertical reciprocating translation "B" by means 21 for the relative lifting and lowering movements between the threading tubes 12, 14 and needles 8. Means 21 comprises a guide plate 22 in which the tubular guide carriers 19 and 20 are slidably guided, which guide plate in turn slides along guide columns 23.

[0044] The tubular cord guide 13 is integral with a fixed support bar 13a and is provided at the end with a neck 13b so that interferences do not occur between said cord guide and the attachment portions 12a and 14a of the threading tubes 12 and 14 during the longitudinal translations of carriers 19 and 20.

[0045] In an original manner the crochet galloon machine 17 comprises auxiliary movement means 24 for the threading tubes 12 and 14 to simultaneously transmit an exchange movement to said threading tubes astride the tubular cord guide 13, which movement is substantially parallel to the longitudinal-extension direction of needles 8. Each of the threading tubes 12 and 14 is therefore on the whole capable of performing a relative movement, with respect to the tubular cord guide 13, thereby partly circumscribing the cord guide 13 itself that, seen in plan view, substantially has a "U"-shaped conformation in which the trajectories corresponding to the two symmetric opposite legs of the "U" are obtained by the reciprocating longitudinal translations of the respective tubular guide carrier.

[0046] The auxiliary movement means 24 is defined by a kinematic driving unit adapted to impart simultaneous and opposite rotations to the tubular guide carriers 19 and 20 around their longitudinal axis.

[0047] Obviously, it is necessary for the threading tubes 12 and 14 to be engaged in the respective carriers at a slightly offset position in a longitudinal direction, so that they do not interfere with each other when the exchange movement is carried out.

[0048] The kinematic driving unit 24 comprises a pair of toothed wheels 25 and 26 meshing with each other and each integral with a respective tubular guide carrier 19 and 20. Rotation of one of the two carriers, and more specifically carrier 19, is transmitted by a rocking arm 27 integral with said carrier at a first end 27a thereof.

[0049] The rocking arm 27, at its second end 27b, is hinged on a first end portion 28a of a connecting rod 28 which, in turn, is submitted to reciprocating translations "C" by drive members 29.

[0050] Said drive members 29 comprise a motive bar 30 movable with a longitudinal reciprocating motion parallel to the longitudinal motion "A" of the tubular guide carriers 19 and 20 and a substantially L-shaped arm 31 centrally hinged on a vertical pivot pin 32. The L-shaped arm 31 comprises a first extreme portion 31a connected to the motive bar 30 and a second extreme portion 31b connected to a second end portion 28b of the connecting rod 28.

[0051] Practically, the reciprocating translation "E" of the motive bar 30 imposes rotation "D" of the L-shaped arm 31 about the vertical pivot pin 32 and consequently displacement of the end portion 28b of the connecting rod 28 substantially in the direction "C", which in turn gives rise to oscillation of arm 27.

[0052] The invention achieves important advantages.

[0053] First of all the article of manufacture made by the process and the crochet galloon machine in accordance with the invention has a cord very steadily engaged in the fabric texture. In fact, it is externally held by two weft threads interlaced and interlooped with the warp threads. If one or both weft threads should be torn once or more times, which would involve destruction of some connecting portions between the successive lengths of said weft threads, the cord would be in any case held by all the other connecting portions because the weft threads, even if broken, are always interlooped with the warp stitch sequences.

[0054] In addition, the cord is externally blocked by connecting portions of the two weft threads that at the crossing points, as they are wound about the cord in the opposite direction, enable a central symmetric positioning of the cord itself to be maintained relative to the opposite faces of the fabric, at the same time carrying out an appropriate and thick covering of the surface thereof.

Claims

1. A cord-finish-edge warp-woven article of manufacture of the type comprising:

- a plurality of parallel chains (2) formed by warp threads and defined by the successive sequences of weaving stitches (3) transverse to the longitudinal-extension direction of the chains themselves (2),

- at least one weft thread (4) having successive lengths (4a) each interlooped with one of said sequences of weaving stitches (3), and

- at least one cord (5) disposed parallelly of said longitudinal-extension direction of the chains at a fabric edge (6), so as to define said cord-finish edge, characterized in that said at least one weft thread (4) at said cord-finish edge has at least one connecting portion (4b) between said successive lengths (4a) disposed astride said cord (5) in a manner adapted to interloop the cord itself.

2. An article of manufacture as claimed in claim 1, characterized in that said weft thread (4) has said successive lengths (4a) divided into pairs of adjacent lengths (4c) disposed alternately on diametrically opposite sides of the cord (5) in such a manner that each of said pairs (4c) has two portions (4b) for connection with the preceding and following pairs wound up astride the cord (5) in a mutually opposite direction.

3. An article of manufacture as claimed in claim 2, characterized in that provision is made for two of said weft threads (4, 7), each having one said pair of adjacent lengths (4c, 7c) corresponding with one pair (4c, 7c) of the other weft thread disposed on the opposite side of the cord (5), so that said two connecting portions (4b, 7b) of each said pair of adjacent lengths of each weft thread are crossed with the corresponding connecting portions of the other weft thread in an opposite winding direction.

4. A process for warp-weaving a cord-finish-edge article of manufacture made by a crochet galloon machine (17) of the type comprising:

- a plurality of needles (8) disposed consecutively in side by side relationship along a front grooved bar (9),

- a plurality of eye-pointed needles (10) disposed consecutively in side by side relationship parallelly of the front grooved bar (9) and in front of the needles (8) and each arranged so as to engage a warp thread,

- at least one threading tube (12) adapted to engage a respective weft thread (4), and

- at least one tubular cord guide (13) adapted to engage a cord (5) intended to define said cord-finish edge, said process comprising the following operations:

- imparting a relative movement to the needles (8) and eye-pointed needles (10) suitable to make a plurality of parallel chains (2) formed by warp threads and defined by successive sequences of weaving stitches (3) transverse to the longitudinal-extension direction of the chains (2),

- laying down successive lengths (4a) of said at least one weft thread (4) in combination with said relative movement of the needles (8) and eye-pointed needles (10) so as to interloop said lengths (4a) with said weaving stitch (3) sequences, and

- disposing at least one cord (5) parallelly of the extension direction of said chains (2) to a position corresponding to the edge (6) of the article of manufacture where said cord-finish edge is to be provided,
characterized in that said weft-thread laying down operation is performed by a movement of the threading tube (12) extending astride said tubular cord guide (13) in such a manner that the cord (5) is interlaced by the weft thread (4).

5. A process as claimed in claim 4, characterized in that said weft-thread (4) laying down step is carried out by successive full backward and forward strokes of the threading tube (12) alternately disposed on opposite sides of said tubular cord guide (13).

6. A process as claimed in claim 5, put into practice by a crochet galloon machine comprising two threading tubes (12, 14) for respective weft threads (4, 7) disposed on opposite sides relative to said tubular cord guide (13), characterized in that said operation involving laying down of the two weft threads (4, 7) is performed by simultaneous full strokes of said threading tubes (12, 14) carried out successively on opposite sides relative to said tubular cord guide (13) and alternated with exchange steps of the position of said threading tubes (12, 14), in such a manner that two successive full strokes of each threading tube take place on opposite sides relative to the same tubular cord guide (13).

7. A crochet galloon machine for warp weaving a cord-finish-edge article of manufacture comprising:

- a plurality of needles (8) disposed consecutively in side by side relationship along a front grooved bar (9),

- a plurality of eye-pointed needles (10) disposed consecutively in side by side relationship parallelly of the front grooved bar (9) and in front of the needles (8) and each arranged so as to engage a warp thread,

- at least one threading tube (12) adapted to engage a respective weft thread (4), and

- at least one tubular cord guide (13) adapted to engage a cord (5) intended to define said cord-finish edge,

- transverse-movement means (18) for said at least one threading tube (12) for transmitting a reciprocating translation to said tube which is parallel to the longitudinal extensions of the front grooved bar (9), and

- means (21) for the relative lifting and lowering movements between the threading tube and the needles (8), characterized in that it further comprises auxiliary movement means (24) for said at least one threading tube (12) for transmitting an exchange movement to said tube astride the tubular cord guide (13), which exchange movement is substantially parallel to the longitudinal-extension direction of the needles (8), so that, with respect to the tubular cord guide (13), said at least one threading tube (12) on the whole performs a relative movement partly circumscribing the tubular cord guide (13) itself.

8. A machine as claimed in claim 7, characterized in that it comprises two threading tubes (12, 14) disposed astride said tubular cord guide (13) and in that said auxiliary movement means (24) simultaneously transmits said exchange movement astride the tubular cord guide (13) to the threading tubes (12, 14), so that, with respect to the tubular cord guide itself, the reciprocating translation trajectories performed by said transverse-movement means (18) are periodically exchanged.

9. A machine as claimed in claim 8, in which said transverse-movement means (18) for said threading tubes (12, 14) comprises a longitudinally-movable tubular guide carrier (19, 20) for each threading tube (12, 14), characterized in that said auxiliary movement means (24) for the threading tubes (12, 14) is defined by a kinematic driving unit adapted to impart simultaneous rotations in the two ways about their longitudinal axis to said tubular guide carriers (19) and (20).

10. A machine as claimed in claim 9, characterized in that said kinematic driving unit (24) comprises:

- a pair of toothed wheels (25, 26) meshed with each other and each integral with one said tubular guide carrier (19, 20),

- a rocking arm (27) integral, at a first end (27a) thereof, with one of said tubular guide carriers (19, 20),

- a connecting rod (28) hinged, at a first end portion thereof (28a), on a second end (27b) of said rocking arm (27), and

- drive members (29) adapted to impose reciprocating translations to said connecting rod (28).

11. A machine as claimed in claim 10, characterized in that said drive members (29) comprise:

- a motive bar (30) movable with a longitudinal reciprocating motion parallel to the longitudinal motion of said tubular guide carriers (19, 20), and

- a substantially L-shaped arm (31) centrally hinged on a vertical pivot pin (32) and having a first extreme portion (31a) engaged with said motive bar (30) and a second extreme portion (31b) engaged with a second end portion (28b) of said connecting rod (28).

Drawing