[0001] The present invention relates to a composite yarn and a method of manufacturing same.
[0002] In accordance with the recent diversification of consumer needs, an appeal to aesthetic
senses and sensibilities is expected of the yarns used for clothing. One of the yarns
that satisfies this condition is grandrelle yarn. It is manufactured by mixed spinning,
twisting, air-jet spinning, or the like. However, all these methods produce either
regular or random patterns in structure and are not capable of producing any natural
patterns creating the feel of something handmade.
[0003] The object underlying the present invention is to provide grandrelle-like yarns with
natural patterns creating the feel of some handmade material. A further object of
the present invention is to provide a method of manufacturing such a yarn.
[0004] According to a first aspect of the present invention, a composite yarn is provided
comprising two fiber bundles of short fibers which are drafted into a fine spun twisted
union yarn, wherein one of the fiber bundles appears and disappears alternately on
the periphery of the fine spun twisted union yarn along the length of the yarn, and
the respective length of an appearing part or a disappearing part varies according
to a 1/f fluctuation.
[0005] According to a second aspect of the present invention, a method of manufacturing
a composite yarn in a fine spinning process is provided, in which two fiber bundles
of short fibers are drafted into a fine spun twisted union yarn by using a fine spinning
machine, wherein the feed rate of one fiber bundle is varied by a 1/f fluctuation
and the one fiber bundle is twisted with the other fiber bundle.
[0006] According to a third aspect of the present invention, a method of manufacturing a
composite yarn in a fine spinning process is provided, in which two fiber bundles
of short fibers are drafted into a fine spun twisted union yarn by using a fine spinning
machine, wherein the feed rate of at least one fiber bundle is divided into two stages,
namely a high feed-rate stage and a low feed-rate stage, wherein the feed rate in
one stage is varied by the time pitch of a 1/f fluctuation, and the one fiber bundle
is twisted with the other fiber bundle.
[0007] According to the invention, the object is solved in an advantageous and satisfying
manner. The yarn creating the feel of some handmade material can readily be manufactured
at an industrial scale.
[0008] The above and other objects and the attended advantages of the present invention
will readily become apparent with reference to the following detailed description
when considered in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:
Fig. 1 is a perspective diagrammatic view of a fine spinning machine for manufacturing
a composite yarn with a 1/f fluctuation;
Fig. 2(A) to 2(C) are diagrammatic views explaining the manufacturing method and the
structure of composite yarn when the feed rate of one fiber bundle is varied with
a 1/f fluctuation; and
Fig. 3 shows diagrammatic views explaining the method of manufacturing composite yarn
when the feed rate of two fiber bundles is varied with a 1/f fluctuation.
Detailed Description of the Invention
Fine spinning machine
[0009] A fine spinning machine is a suitable apparatus which can produce a composite yarn
from two fiber bundles of roving. For example, as shown in Fig. 1, the machine drafts
a first roving 311 and a second roving 312 in a draft section 1, feeds a first fiber
bundle 321 of the roving 311 and a second fiber bundle 322 of the second roving 312,
respectively, to front rollers 131 and 132, spins and twists them into a fine spun
twisted union yarn 33 by means of a spindle section 4, and winds the obtained yarn
33 on a bobbin 34.
[0010] The draft section 1 comprises the following components: a back roller 11, a back
top roller 11T, a middle roller portion comprising a middle roller or an apron 12
and a middle top roller or a top apron 12T, front rollers 131 and 132, as well as
front top rollers 131T and 132T. In such an arrangement, the pairs of rollers 131
and 131T on the one hand and 132 and 132T on the other hand are mounted one beside
the other and are driven by independent driving sources as explained in more detail
below.
Roving
[0011] For roving, any of the following short fibers or their combinations can be used:
natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, silk, and wool; regenerated fibers such as rayon,
cupra, and high-strength regenerated cellulose fibers, for example a material available
under the tradename "Tencell"; and synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester, and
for the two fiber bundles of roving, the short fibers or their combinations having
different colors or having different dyeing property can be used, and the color of
each fiber can be its original color or a dyed color.
Driving of front rollers
[0012] The front rollers 131 and 132 are so designed and adapted as to draft fiber bundles,
and they are driven and controlled independently of each other. As shown in Fig. 1,
the front rollers 131 and 132 are provided, for example, with front top rollers 131T
and 132T attached to and pressing against them. The front rollers 131 and 132 are
driven independently of each other by a first motor M 231 and a second motor M 232,
wherein the respective front top rollers 131T and 132T follow them.
[0013] The motors M 231 and M 232 are respectively controlled by controllers 221 and 222.
Also, the controllers 221 and 222 are connected to a generator 21 providing a 1/f
fluctuation signal. Hence, the controllers 221 and 222 are adapted to drive the motors
at a normal constant speed or at a modified speed varying by a 1/f fluctuation.
[0014] Thus, the controllers 221 and 222 are adapted to perform control, for example in
such a way that the fiber bundle from the one roving is fed with a speed corresponding
to the 1/f fluctuation signal, while the fiber bundle from the other roving is fed
at a normal constant speed or standard speed. When spinning and twisting the fiber
bundles 312 and 322 leaving the front rollers 131 and 132 controlled by the controllers
221 and 222, a fine spun twisted union yarn 33 with a 1/f fluctuation is produced.
1/f fluctuation
[0015] In this context, the expression "1/f fluctuation" is defined and understood as a
power spectrum, with a frequency component
f, which is proportional to 1/f
k, wherein
k is approximately 1, and as a power spectrum which is similar to the above.
[0016] Accordingly, a 1/f fluctuation signal is of the type wherein, when its power spectrum
is analysed in a time series, the intensity is almost inversely proportional to the
frequency
f or directly proportional to 1/f.
[0017] Such a 1/f fluctuation signal corresponds to fluctuations in the basic rhythm of
a human body, such as hart beats, and the application of 1/f fluctuation signals makes
it possible to produce grandrelle-like patterns and materials which create a sense
of handmade unevenness.
[0018] Considering the situation under a different aspect, if a human body receives the
same stimuli continuously, he will get tired of it rather soon. Conversely, the human
body feels discomfort if the stimulations were to change too suddenly. However, 1/f
fluctuations provide intermediate stimuli between the two opposite types and create
a comfortable feeling (see, for example, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 7-243137).
[0019] Such a 1/f fluctuation signal can be determined from a numerical sequence, which
in turn is obtained by performing arithmetic operations on a random number sequence
with a predetermined number of coefficients. Also, it can be prepared by a well-known
method using a computer or the like (see, for example Japanese Patent Laid-Open No.
7-243137).
Description of the Preferred Embodiments
a) First alternative where the feed rate of fiber bundles is varied by a 1/f fluctuation.
[0020] As shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings, two fiber bundles having different colors from
the rovings 311 and 312 are supplied and pass through a normal back roller 11 with
associated back top roller 11T and a middle roller 12 with associated middle top roller
12T, or corresponding aprons. Then, two corresponding fiber bundles 321 and 322 are
fed to front rollers 131 and 132, that operate independently of each other, and to
front top roller 131T and 132T that follow the respective front rollers 131 and 132.
[0021] The one fiber bundle is drafted with its feed rate varied by a 1/f fluctuation while
the other fiber bundle is fed at a constant feed rate. As an example of a 1/f fluctuation,
the surface speed of the front roller 132 is varied by a 1/f fluctuation, while the
surface speed of the front roller 131 is kept at a constant feed rate of Vo.
[0022] The 1/f fluctuation signal is set to change, for example, within a variable range
of the predetermined feed rate, for example between 1.00 and 1.25.
[0023] If the surface speed of the front roller 132 that drafts the fiber bundle 322 is
1.00 with respect to the front roller 131, see the portion
L in Fig. 2(A), the fiber bundles 321 and 322 are fed at the same speed; hence, they
appear at almost equal intervals when twisted with each other, as shown for example
in Fig. 2(B).
[0024] In contrast, if the surface speed of the front roller 132 that drafts the fiber bundle
322 is 1.25 with respect to the surface speed of the front roller 131, see portion
M in Fig. 2(A), the fiber bundle 322 becomes thinner and longer than the fiber bundle
321. When the two fiber bundles 321 and 322 are twisted with each other, the fiber
bundle 322 is exposed when winding itself around the periphery of the produced fine
spun twisted union yarn 33, as shown for example in Fig. 2(C).
[0025] Therefore, the speed difference between the front roller 131 and the front roller
132 is zero in portion
L and is at maximum in portion
M, where control is performed without changing the controller 221 of the front roller
131.
[0026] When driving the front roller 132 with a rotation speed which is varied with a 1/f
fluctuation signal, as shown diagrammatically in Fig. 2(A) between the corresponding
extremes, such a control combines the two fiber bundles 321 and 322 into a fine spun
twisted union yarn 33 having a natural grandrelle-like pattern with a 1/f fluctuation
varying between the patterns of portion
L and portion
M as indicated in Fig. 2(A). In this case, when the two fiber bundles having different
dyeing property are used, the fibers can be dyed in advance or dyed after the fine
spun twisted union yarn 33 has been produced.
b) Second alternative where the feed rate of fiber bundles is varied by the time pitch
of 1/f fluctuation.
[0027] As shown in Fig. 1 of the drawings, two fiber bundles having different colors from
the rovings 311 and 312 are supplied and pass through a normal back roller 11 with
associated back top roller 11T, and a middle roller 12 with associated middle top
roller 12T or corresponding aprons. Then, two fiber bundles 321 and 322 are fed to
the front rollers 131 and 132, that operate independently of each other, and to front
top rollers 131T and 132T that follow the respective front rollers 131 and 132.
[0028] The feed rate of at least one fiber bundle is alternately varied between two stages,
with the feeding time pitch in one stage being varied by a 1/f fluctuation. Regarding
the other fiber bundle, either its feed rate may be kept constant or its feeding time
pitch may be varied by a 1/f fluctuation opposite to that of the first fiber bundle.
[0029] When the feeding time pitch of the two fiber bundles is varied by a 1/f fluctuation,
the surface speed of the front roller 132 can be set at 1.25 as opposed to a surface
speed of 1.00 for the front roller 131 in one stage; and the surface speed of the
front roller 132 can be set at 1.00 as opposed to a surface speed of 1.25 for the
front roller 131 in the other stage. This situation is shown diagrammatically in Fig.
3 of the drawings. In this way, at least in one stage, the feeding type is varied
at a pitch of 1/f fluctuation.
[0030] When the surface speed of the front roller 131 is 1.25, then the fiber bundle 321
becomes thinner and longer than the fiber bundle 322 of the front roller 132 rotating
at a surface speed of 1.00. Accordingly, the fiber bundle 321 from the roving 311
is exposed when winding itself around the periphery of the fine spun twisted union
yarn 33 produced thereby, as shown at
J in Fig. 3.
[0031] Conversely, if the surface speed of the front roller 131 is 1.00 and the surface
speed of the front roller 132 is 1.25, then the fiber bundle 322 becomes thinner and
longer than the fiber bundle 321, and the fiber bundle 322 from the roving 312 winds
itself around the periphery of the bicomponent filament yarn 33 produced thereby as
shown at
K in Fig. 3.
[0032] The patterns of fine spun twisted union yarn 33 produced in such a manner are shown
in the lower portion of Fig. 3. Such fine spun twisted union yarn 33 are produced
wherein the rotation of the front rollers 131 and 132 is controlled in such a manner
that the exposed portion of one fiber bundle 321 will be approximately 20 mm long,
and with the feeding time varied at a pitch of 1/f fluctuation in time periods indicated
at t1, t2, t3, t4 etc. in the stage when the surface speed of the front roller 132
is 1.25.
[0033] In this manner, fine spun twisted union yarn 33 is obtained by spinning and twisting
the two fiber bundles 321 and 322 with each other resulting in a yarn 33 having a
1/f fluctuation. In other words, it has a natural grandrelle-like pattern instead
of a regular or random pattern.
[0034] In this case, too, when the two fiber bundles having different dyeing property are
used, the fibers can be dyed in advance or dyed after the fine spun twisted union
yarn 33 has been produced.
[0035] The fine spun twisted union yarn 33 can further be used to obtain woven or knitted
fabrics having a natural grandrelle-like pattern with a 1/f fluctuation. When two
fiber bundles having different dyeing property are used, dyeing can also be carried
out after a woven or knitted fabric has been produced by using the fine spun twisted
union yarn 33.
[0036] It is readily apparent that the invention provides considerable advantages in practice.
On the one hand, it is possible to produce a composite yarn with natural grandrelle-like
patterns. On the other hand, the use of such a composite yarn according to the present
invention makes it possible to obtain textiles having a natural grandrelle-like pattern
creating a comfortable feel, instead of a regular or random pattern.
[0037] It is readily apparent that the composite yarn according to the invention has the
advantage of wide commercial utility.
[0038] It should be understood, however, that the specific form of the invention described
above is intended to be representative only, as various modifications within the scope
of these teachings will be apparent to those skilled in the art.
1. A composite yarn comprising two fiber bundles (321, 322) of short fibers which are
drafted into the fine spun twisted union yarn (33),
wherein one of the fiber bundles (321, 322) appears and disappears alternately on
the periphery of the fine spun twisted union yarn (33) along the length of the yarn
(33), and the respective length of an appearing part or a disappearing part varies
according to a 1/f fluctuation.
2. A method of manufacturing a composite yarn in a fine spinning process in which two
fiber bundles (321, 322) of short fibers are drafted into a fine spun twisted union
yarn (33) by using a fine spinning machine (1, 4),
wherein the feed rate of one fiber bundle (321, 322) is varied by a 1/f fluctuation,
and the one fiber bundle (321, 322) is spun and twisted with the other fiber bundle
(322, 321).
3. A method of manufacturing a composite yarn in a fine spinning process in which two
fiber bundles (321, 322) of short fibers are drafted into a fine spun twisted union
yarn (33) by using a fine spinning machine (1, 4),
wherein the feed rate of at least one fiber bundle (321, 322) is divided into two
stages, namely a high feed-rate stage and a low feed-rate stage, wherein the feed
rate in one stage is varied by the time pitch of a 1/f fluctuation, and the one fiber
bundle (321, 322) is spun and twisted with the other fiber bundle (322, 321).