[0001] The finding relates to a procedure for the manufacture of chains used for jewellery,
as well as chains manufactured with the aforementioned procedure.
[0002] As it is well known, one of the techniques for manufacturing chains used by goldsmiths
and the makers of costume jewellery consists in the manufacture of shaped small rings,
which come to be mutually chained to one another, manufacturing a chain which presents
a different aesthetic aspect according to the shaping and the type of linking together
of the small rings themselves.
[0003] The individual small rings are obtained from a tubular semifinished product, comprised
of a core made of iron, copper or any other material which is not noble, required
for allowing the bending without the deformation of the small rings themselves, which
is coated by a foil made from a noble material.
[0004] The wire thus obtained is then wound like a spiral on a mandrel of round, oval or
other geometric shape, the cross section of which corresponds to the internal width
of the chain rings that one is going to manufacture.
[0005] Then this spiral is sawn lengthwise, in order to obtain individual rings with slightly
opened opposite ends, such to enable their linking together to form the chain.
[0006] Thus the small rings are closed again and individually welded at the point of junction
of the opposite ends.
[0007] The chains thus obtained are then brought into contact with aggressive substances
such as hydrochloric acid, nitric acid and caustic soda and the like which provide
for dissolving, through a corrosive process, the internal metallic core of the individual
small rings.
[0008] The removal of the corroded metallic core occurs through openings provided in the
noble metallic foil, which either are defined by the lengthwise junction, bound by
the laps of the foil itself which are not perfectly set side by side or, when the
tubular is welded through windows, concern the entire thickness of the foil itself.
[0009] The purpose of the present finding is that of providing a procedure to manufacture
chains used for jewellery which is simplified with respect to known procedures.
[0010] This is attained by foreseeing that the chain links be comprised of small rings formed
by two portions or semi small rings previously bent and then mutually welded in their
corresponding ends rather than by a single tubular body bent and welded at the point
of junction of its two ends.
[0011] With such constructive solution made possible by the use of welding techniques which
are sophisticated but are now in current use such as, for example, the use of laser,
many advantages are obtained whether they be operative or aesthetic.
[0012] From the operating point of view a first and relevant advantage is that of being
able to manufacture chain links with a completely new shape, which cannot be manufactured
with known industrial machinery.
[0013] In fact, as it is easily intuitive, the formation of a small ring by means of mutual
welding of two opposite separate and distinct parts implies that the same must not
necessarily have a substantially annular and symmetrical shape as a consequence of
being constructed as a single body.
[0014] In fact, as it is possible to shape separately each of the two parts before their
mutual welding, it is possible to obtain closed and mutually linked small rings, where
the asymmetry may concern not only the single small ring, but also the entire link
forming the chain; in other words it is possible to manufacture small rings consisting
of two very different semi-small rings and chains comprising small rings of varied
configuration.
[0015] Still by the operative point of view a further and by no means less important advantage
derives from the fact that the semi-small rings when they are mutually welded are
advantageously devoid of their inner metallic core whereby once welded it is no longer
necessary to subject the chain to the aggressive action of the chemical substances,
with a notable savings in the cost effectiveness of the whole production cycle.
[0016] This is made possible since after the individual semi-rings have been folded and
have hence taken up a definitive profile they undergo the aggressive action of the
corrosive substances and the removal of the metallic core occurs naturally due to
the tubular shape of the body, which implies the elimination in the work cycle of
the operation in which the openings are made on the surface of the foil in the noble
material.
[0017] From the aesthetic point of view the advantages consist in that it is possible to
manufacture chains used as jewellery with link configurations which are already known,
such as the gourmette, herringbone, triple, quadruple, quintuple and others where
the individual small rings can be of two colours and consist of two different metals.
[0018] Further features and advantages of the finding will be clearer from the description
of some of its preferred embodiments, provided as an illustrative and non-limiting
example only, referring to the attached drawings, wherein:
fig. 1 illustrates the production steps of chain with the procedure according to the
finding;
fig. 2 illustrates some possible types of small rings obtained with the procedure
according to the finding;
fig. 3 illustrates some possible types of chains used as jewellery obtained with the
procedure according to the finding.
[0019] As can be seen in fig. 1 each small ring 1 is comprised of two parts or semi-rings
2' and 2'' which first fit to respective opposite ends 3 to manufacture the linking
together and thereafter are mutually welded along the aforesaid ends.
[0020] As is evident from figs. 2 and 3, with the procedure according to the finding it
is possible to manufacture small rings of a totally asymmetrical shape and to thus
manufacture chains of a particular aesthetic aspect.
[0021] Obviously the procedure according to the finding is just as valid even using flat
semi-small rings or small rings consisting of more than two portions; likewise chain
embodiments which are different from those described are possible, such different
embodiments consisting for exalmple in the alternate positioning of small rings and
various bodies within the chain links according to the aesthetic aspect to be achieved
without departing from the scope of protection of the claims attached herein below.
1. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS USED FOR JEWELLERY to be used by goldsmiths
and the makers of costume jewellery which consist of shaped small rings, which come
to be mutually chained to one another, forming a chain which presents a different
aesthetic aspect according to the shaping and the type of linking together of the
small rings themselves,
said procedure being characterised in that the chain links are comprised of small rings formed by at least two portions or semi-small
rings previously shaped in a definitive way, which are firstly set side by side in
order to achieve the linking and then mutually welded at their corresponding ends.
2. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS USED FOR JEWELLERY, according to claim 1,
characterised in that the portions of small rings are empty, i.e. only consist of the foil made from a
noble material.
3. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS USED FOR JEWELLERY, according to claims 1
and 2, characterised in manufacturing small rings consisting of portions of different mutual configuration.
4. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS USED FOR JEWELLERY according to claims 1 and
2, characterised in manufacturing small rings consisting of portions of different colours.
5. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS USED FOR JEWELLERY, according to claims 1
and 2, characterised in manufacturing small rings consisting of portions of different noble materials of
varied alloy or compositions.
6. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS USED FOR JEWELLERY, according to one or more
of the preceding claims, characterised in that it does not require the process of chemical aggression.
7. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS USED FOR JEWELLERY, according to one or more
of the preceding claims, characterised in that the portions comprising every single small ring are of a full type.
8. PROCEDURE FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CHAINS USED FOR JEWELLERY, according to one or more
of the preceding claims, characterised in that the welding of corresponding ends of the portions consisting of a small ring is of
a laser type.
9. JEWELLERY CHAIN, which presents a configuration of chain links of a known type, for
example, gourmette, herringbone, triple, quadruple, quintuple and the like characterised in that it is produced according to the process described in one or more of the preceding
claims.
10. JEWELLERY CHAIN manufactured by the process described in one or more of the preceding
claims, characterised in that the foil forming the small ring is without openings.