[0001] The present invention relates to a method of producing reinforced fabrics and to
reinforced fabrics.
[0002] In the production of garments such as brassieres and foundation garments, it is often
necessary to provide reinforcement in specific areas of the garment in order to enable
the garment to provide the desired support to the wearer.
[0003] Typically the reinforcement is provided by incorporating into the garment separate
reinforcement members, e.g. wires or bones. The provision of separate reinforcement
members is highly undesirable as they require the garment to be specially modified,
e.g. by the incorporation of pockets in order to accommodate the reinforcement members.
This increases the production cost of the garment and also can render the garment
uncomfortable to wear. In addition, the size, shape and number of areas which can
be reinforced are restricted due to the shape and size of the reinforcement and to
the resultant modifications to the garment which are required in order to incorporate
the reinforcement members.
[0004] A general aim of the present invention is to provide a method of producing a reinforced
fabric having areas of reinforcement which are integrally formed with the fabric structure.
[0005] This enables reinforcement areas of desired size and location and desired degree
of reinforcement to be produced simultaneously with the production of the fabric by
suitable pattern control techniques.
[0006] According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of producing
a reinforced fabric including producing by a knitting or weaving process a ground
fabric using ground yarns and incorporating into the ground fabric during the knitting
or weaving process reinforcement yarns in a predetermined pattern to form predetermined
areas of reinforcement, the reinforcement yarn being a stretch resistive yarn coated
with a weldable material, and subsequently exposing the fabric to a weldable condition
in order to cause said weldable material to weld to itself and to ground yarns with
which it is in contact.
[0007] According to another aspect of the present invention there is provided a reinforced
fabric comprising a knitted or woven ground fabric incorporating a predetermined pattern
of reinforcement yarns which define integral areas of reinforcement, the reinforcement
yarns being stretch resistive yarns coated with a welded weldable material.
[0008] Various aspects of the present invention are hereinafter described with reference
to the accompanying drawings in which:-
Figure 1 is a schematic broken away perspective view of a reinforcement yarn according
to an embodiment of the invention;
Figure 2 is a similar view to Figure 1 showing the yarn after being exposed to welding
conditions;
Figures 3a, 3b are respectively a schematic stitch diagram of a first stitch structure
and a fabric produced by the first stitch after being exposed to welding conditions;
Figures 4a, 4b are respectively a schematic stitch diagram of a second stitch structure
and a fabric produced by the second stitch structure after being exposed to welding
conditions;
Figures 5a, 5b are respectively a schematic stitch diagram of a third stitch structure
and a fabric produced by the third stitch structure;
Figure 6 is a schematic stitch diagram of a fourth stitch structure; and
Figure 7 is a schematic view of a brassiere having desired areas of reinforcement.
[0009] Referring initially to Figure 1 there is shown a reinforcement yarn 10 suitable for
use in the production of reinforced fabrics according to the present invention. The
yarn 10 is a composite yarn having a core which is formed from a highly stretch resistive
yarn 11 such as an arimid yarn or glass fibres or metal yam or a polyester, polyamide,
polypropylene or other synthetic monofilament. The arimid yarn may for example be
KEVLAR (RTM). The yarn 11 is formed preferably by spinning staple fibres or extruding
filaments so as to produce a yarn that can be formed into stitches or loops so as
to enable it to be converted into fabric using either knitting or weaving techniques.
Typically the weight of yarn 11 is about 130 dtex.
[0010] The stretch resistive yarn 11 is coated with a weldable material 12 which, prior
to being welded, is of sufficient flexibility to enable the yarn 11 to be knitted
or woven. Preferably, the weldable material 12 is in the form of covering yarns 14
wrapped about the stretch resistive yarn 11. Preferably at least two yarns 14 are
wrapped about the yarn 11 in opposite directions so as not to impart any bias on the
composite yarn 10. The relative sizes of yarns 11 and 14 are preferably chosen such
that the outer surface of yarn 11 is completely covered by the weldable material 12.
[0011] Preferably the yarns 14 are formed from a low melt plastics such as a polyamide.
Typically the weight of yarn 14 is about 75 dtex. A suitable yarn is one sold under
the brand name GRILON (RTM).
[0012] The reinforcement yarn is incorporated into a ground fabric using conventional pattern
techniques so as to create reinforcement areas of predetermined size and shape in
a predetermined location within the fabric. By suitable choice of the weight of reinforcement
yarn and/or how it is incorporated into the ground fabric structure it is possible
to control the degree of reinforcement in those areas.
[0013] For example, if the fabric has a ground weft knitted fabric formed by knitting of
ground yarns, the reinforcement yarn may be incorporated as plain knitted stitches,
as tuck stitches, as floats or as laid in yarn. The reinforcement yarns may be incorporated
into the same courses as the ground yarns or may be incorporated into courses intermediate
the courses of ground yarns. By suitable choice of these different ways of incorporating
the reinforcement yarn into the ground fabric it is possible to engineer the desired
reinforcement characteristics for each reinforcement area.
[0014] For example, as illustrated in Figure 3a, the reinforcement yarn 10 may be knit on
every course
C and every wale
W.
[0015] With such a structure, each stitch of reinforcement yarn 10 is in contact with neighbouring
stitches of reinforcement yarn 10.
[0016] Accordingly, after the fabric has been exposed to welding conditions, for example
by being elevated in temperature to a temperature at which the weldable material melts,
the contacting stitches weld to one another thereby creating a reinforcement area
50 formed of a welded mass with stitches of stretch resistive yarn 11 embedded within
the welded weldable material 14a.
[0017] Preferably the fabric is exposed to welding conditions by being elevated in temperature
to a temperature at which the weldable material 14 will soften and melt, the viscosity
of the weldable material 14 in its melted state being such that the weldable material
partially flows throughout the fabric structure. After cooling to ambient temperatures,
the welded mass 14a forms a more rigid structure, replicating the function of a rigid
insert such as a reinforcement bone or plastic insert. In other words, the weldable
material 14 forms a cohesive mass.
[0018] When the weldable material 14 is GRILON (RTM), for example, the fabric is exposed
to welding conditions by being elevated in temperature to a temperature in the range
of 80°C to 150°C.
[0019] The fabric structure in the reinforced area 50 is thereby locked and rigid due to
the welded mass 14a of the weldable material 14. The stretch resistive yarn 11 embedded
within the welded mass 14a of the weldable material 14 helps to prevent stretch of
the welded mass and so serves to prevent breakup of the welded mass.
[0020] As seen in Figure 3a, the reinforcement area 50 formed by knitting on every course
and wale is continuous in both the weft and wale directions and so forms a totally
rigid area of reinforcement.
[0021] It is envisaged that within the reinforced area formed by plain stitches, it is possible
to incorporate at selected locations, tuck stitches which introduce holes within the
reinforced area. Such holes may be desirable to enable passage of air and so provided
air/moisture passageways.
[0022] As illustrated in Figures 4
a, 4
b the reinforcement yarn 10 may be incorporated as a miss-knit stitch formation. As
illustrated in Figure 4
a, the reinforcement yarn 10 is knitted on each course (for a selected number of courses)
as knit 2 ― miss-knit 3. This produces after exposure of the fabric to welding conditions,
reinforcement areas 60 in the form of wale wise extending regions/strips of welded
weldable material 14. The miss-knit structure produces floats of reinforcement yarn
10 which weld to the stitches of the ground yarns which they cross. This provides
resistance to stretch in the course wise direction but provides flexibility in the
wale wise direction.
[0023] The miss-knit stitch formation adopted for the reinforcement yarn 10 may provide
some flexibility in the course wise direction also. For example as illustrated in
Figures 5a, 5b alternate courses are knit with a different miss-knit stitch structure
so as to avoid continuous knitted wales formed of the reinforcement yarn 10. For example,
in Figure 5a, a first course is knit using a knit 2 ― miss-knit 3 notation and the
second course is knit using a miss-knit 2 - knit 3 notation. This is repeated on successive
courses and so produces small areas of reinforcement 70 separated in both the course
and wale wise directions.
[0024] As schematically illustrated in Figure 6, courses C
R knitted using the reinforcement yarn 10 may be separated by courses C
g knitted from ground yarn of the fabric. This will produce lines of reinforcement
which are flexibly connected by the intermediate courses C
g of the knitted ground yarn.
[0025] It will be appreciated that the reinforcement yarn may be incorporated by any conventional
knit structure into a ground fabric knitted using ground yarns such as polyamide or
polyester in order to provide desired areas of reinforcement 50.
[0026] Desired areas of reinforcement 50 are shown, for example, in the brassiere shown
in Figure 7 wherein the areas of reinforcement 50 extend around, and between, the
breast pockets 51. The fabric structure of the areas of reinforcement 50 may be the
same throughout or be different in order to provide different degrees of reinforcement
at desired locations.
[0027] It will also be appreciated that the fabric may be knit using weft or warp knitting
techniques and alternatively may also be woven.
[0028] It is envisaged that the fabric of the present invention is preferably laid upon
a former of predetermined shape whilst being elevated to the temperature at which
the weldable material is melted to form the welded mass. In this way, the welded mass
is moulded into the predetermined shape so as to provide the area of reinforcement
with a desired shape.
1. A method of producing a reinforced fabric including producing by a knitting or weaving
process a ground fabric using ground yarns and incorporating into the ground fabric
during the knitting or weaving process reinforcement yarns in a predetermined pattern
to form predetermined areas of reinforcement, the reinforcement yarn being a stretch
resistive yarn coated with a weldable material, and subsequently exposing the fabric
to a weldable condition in order to cause said weldable material to weld to itself
and to ground yarns with which it is in contact.
2. A method according to claim 1 wherein said reinforcement yarn is knitted to define
a plain knit construction in selected ones of said predetermined areas.
3. A method according to claim 1 or 2 wherein said reinforcement yarn is knitted to define
a misknit-knit construction in selected ones of said predetermined areas.
4. A reinforced fabric comprising a knitted or woven ground fabric incorporating a predetermined
pattern of reinforcement yarns which define integral areas of reinforcement, the reinforcement
yarns being stretch resistive yarns coated with a welded weldable material.
5. A reinforced fabric according to claims 4 wherein said stretch resistive yarn comprises
an arimid yarn.
6. A reinforced fabric according to claim 4 wherein said stretch resistive yarn comprises
glass fibres.
7. A reinforced fabric according to claim 4 wherein said stretch resistive yarn is one
of the group consisting of polyester, polyamide, polypropylene or other synthetic
monofilament.
8. A reinforced fabric according to claims 4, 5, 6 or 7 wherein said stretch resistive
yarn is a yarn spun from staple fibres.
9. A reinforced fabric according to any of claims 4 to 8 wherein said weldable material
in a low melt plastic.
10. A reinforced fabric according to claim 9 wherein said reinforcement yarn, prior to
welding, comprises said stretch resistive yarn wrapped in covering yarns formed from
said low melt plastics.
11. A reinforced fabric according to claim 10 wherein said stretch resistive yarn is wrapped
by at least two of said covering yarns wrapped in opposite directions about the stretch
resistive yam.
12. A garment incorporating fabric according to any of claims 4 to 11.