[0001] The present invention concerns a process for the production of artefacts made of
substantially flexible material, in one or more layers, and incorporating laminar
elements of precious metals.
[0002] The invention concerns also articles realized with such artefacts, especially articles
forming part of such sectors as fashion, leather goods and clothing, jewellery, furnishing
and personal and environmental ornaments in general.
[0003] Up to the present the application of ornamental elements made of precious metals
to articles intended for the fashions sector, especially such articles made of leather
as belts and handbags, has been realized exclusively by means of surface attachment
of elements fixed either mechanically or by sewing. Very common are also appliqués
in Dutch gold, for example, elements with paillette decoration applied to handbags
by means of sewing. Quite apart from the question of cost in case of ornamental appliqués
made of precious metals, this type of product has always been associated with a great
drawback that has
de facto limited its use. The decorative metal elements, being in relief on the surface of
the product, are easily damaged when they are brushed against and may become detached
as the result of an impact. The damage, of course, is always greater when the damaged
or detached decorative element is made of precious metal.
[0004] On the other hand, precisely in view of the limited use that is made of these articles
on account of the drawback recalled above, combinations of decorative elements in
precious metal, in particular laminar decorative elements, with such flexible supports
as leather offer a commercial potential that is very great and open a practically
unlimited range of creative possibilities.
[0005] It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a process for the production
of artefacts in substantially flexible material incorporating laminar elements made
of precious metals that is not associated with the drawbacks that beset the solution
known to prior art.
[0006] Another object of the present invention is to provide articles for use in the fashions
sector, especially clothing and leather wear, jewellery and furnishing, realized in
accordance with the process that constitutes the object of the invention.
[0007] These aims are attained by means of the process in accordance with the invention
of which the essential characteristics are specified in Claim 1 hereinbelow. Further
important characteristics of the invention are set out in the dependent claims.
[0008] Other characteristics and the advantages of the process for the production of artefacts
in substantially flexible material incorporating laminar elements made of precious
metal in accordance with the present invention will be brought out by the description
given below of some particular embodiments, which are to be considered as examples
and not limitative in any way, said description making reference to the attached drawings
of which:
- Figure 1 shows a schematic view of a flexible substrate on a part of which there have
been mounted the laminar decorative elements in accordance with the invention;
- Figures 2-6 show the various phases and the components for realizing a bracelet by
means of the process in accordance with the invention;
- Figure 7 shows a bracelet obtained by means of the process in accordance with the
invention;
- Figure 8 shows a schematic view of part of a cross section through the bracelet of
Figure 7.
[0009] According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the process envisages
the use of decorative elements made of precious metal foils of minimal thickness to
be applied to a flexible support. The flexible support may be leather, leatherette
or plastic material and must have a sufficient thickness to permit the formation on
it of an impression capable of accommodating the decorative element, as will be explained
in greater detail later on. Depending on the softness of the support, this thickness
may be as little as 0.5 mm and may generally be of the order of 1 mm. The precious
metal to be preferentially employed is gold in its various chromatic gradations, but
silver and platinum and alloys of these metals may also be advantageously used, always
provided that they can be reduced to the thickness of a foil.
[0010] The first step consists of the lamination of a sheet of gold to the point where a
foil of the requested thickness (down to 0,05 mm) is attained, passing through several
intermediate and final annealing stages. Given its very small thickness, the foil
obtained in this manner is of an inadequate consistency and, in accordance with an
important characteristic of the present invention, the foil is then subjected to hammering
to render it more robust and more plastic. To this end it was found that a hammer
with a spherically shaped head proved particularly advantageous. Following the hammering,
the foil is sheared to size to obtain decorative elements of the desired shape and
the resulting elements are then deoxidised by means of known techniques and subjected
to sanding to confer a satin appearance upon them, this treatment rendering them less
liable to become damaged when they are brushed against during their subsequent use.
One or more attachment pins 4 is/are then applied to the face of each element opposite
to the one that has been hammered to permit their being connected to the substrate,
which is shown only in Figure 8.
[0011] As regards the application of the decorative elements produced in this manner, the
invention envisages two operating modalities.
[0012] According to a first operating modality, illustrated by way of example in Figure
1, on a flexible substrate 1, which may be made of leather for example, there are
produced impressions 2 having the same shape as the decorative elements to be applied,
said impressions being produced by simply compressing the leather with the help of
an appropriate punch. The bottom of each impression is then scratched to roughen its
surface and this is followed by the application of a layer of glue to it. A decorative
element is then introduced into each impression, after which the entire substrate
is moderately heated to activate the glue. The fixing is obtained by means of the
combined effect of the glue and the attachment pin that engages in the bottom of the
impression. Impression 2 has a depth such as to assure that the decorative element
3, once it has been housed in the impression, will be perfectly flush with the surface
of substrate 1. The artefacts obtained in this manner may be preferably employed in
the clothing and leather goods sectors for realizing articles that have substantially
flat or moderately curved faces, cases in point being handbags, belts, footwear or
articles of leather clothing, or also in the furnishing sector, where they can be
used for realizing decorative panels, table articles and similar. The artefacts can
also be used for realizing articles with a small radius of curvature, bracelets being
a case in point.
[0013] Another operating modality, alternative to the one just described, is schematically
illustrated by Figures 2-7, which show the production steps for realizing a bracelet.
[0014] In this case the product obtained is constituted by several layers of materials,
which may also differ from each other, while the laminar decorative elements obtained
as described above are arranged between them. The laminar elements 3 are attached,
one at a time and in accordance with a pre-established sequence, a particular possibility
being the partial superposition shown in Figure 4, on carrier strips, for example
on two such carrier strips, indicated in Figure 3 by the reference number 5, on which
there have been arranged appropriate seatings that can engage with the various attachment
pins 4 projecting from the face not in view of decorative laminar element 3. Carrier
strips 5, in their turn, are then applied to a tubular substrate 6 by means of gluing
and in positions appropriately spaced with respect to each other. Tubular substrate
6 is preferably made of leather and appropriately prepared for the desired function.
In particular, this preparation consists of conferring the desired shape upon the
substrate by wetting it, forming it under pressure and then allowing it to dry. A
lining 10 is then applied to the inside face. Between the two strips 5 and by their
sides there are then glued three further strips 7 of high-quality leather, crocodile
skin for example, which for purely decorative reasons, as shown in the figures, may
assume a wavy pattern. Lastly, above the two lateral strips 7 there may be applied
a cladding consisting of a strip 9 of sapphires threaded on gold wire and anchored
to the two strips 7 by means of sewing. The loose and open pattern of the sapphires
makes it possible to glimpse the decoration of the leather beneath them.
[0015] Attention should here be drawn to the importance of the operation of hammering the
laminar decorative element in precious metal. In fact, apart from rendering it more
robust and plastic, this treatment also confers a pleasant hammered appearance upon
the surface of the element, which, among others, has the advantage of masking the
signs of the welding of the pin: though this is applied to the face not in view, the
welding marks, given the minute thickness of the foil, would be visible also on the
other side. The subsequent sanding treatment assures conservation of the colour, the
cleanliness and the splendour typical of the precious metals.
[0016] It is also important to note that, thanks to the process in accordance with the invention,
which avails itself of decorative elements of a minimal thickness and therefore also
of a minute weight, the necessary quantity of precious metal can be minimized, while
yet obtaining striking and extensive ornamental effects, thus limiting the cost of
the product.
[0017] Though the present invention envisages obtaining the laminar decorative elements
by means of shearing of the metal foil, it is also possible to obtain the same result
by means of laser cutting, a technique that, among others, implies smaller setting
up costs and does not damage the surface hammering treatment.
[0018] Depending on their size, the laminar decorative elements may also be provided with
two or more attachment pins, all applied by means of welding as above.
[0019] Of course, the layout of the various strips and their number may vary according to
the designer's fancy, but in each cases the golden laminar elements are arranged in
such a way that their edges are covered by the adjacent strata. Obviously, the sapphire
strips can also be replaced by strips of other precious stones or, alternatively,
they can be omitted altogether or substituted by other decorative elements or motifs.
[0020] Numerous variations and/or modifications could be brought to the process for the
production of artefacts in substantially flexible material, in one or more layers,
incorporating laminar elements made of precious metals in accordance with the present
invention without for this reason going beyond the scope of the invention as defined
by the claims hereinbelow.
1. A process for the production of artefacts in substantially flexible material incorporating
laminar elements made of precious metal,
characterized in that it comprises the following steps:
- laminating a sheet of said precious metal with both intermediate and final annealing;
- hammering the metal foil obtained in this manner;
- obtaining decorative elements (3) of a pre-established shape from the hammered foil
by means of shearing or laser cutting;
- applying by means of welding at least one attachment pin (4) to the non-hammered
face of each decorative element produced;
- deoxidising the decorative elements thus obtained;
- applying said deoxidised decorative elements to a flexible substrate (1, 6) in such
a way that they will not project from the surface of said substrate.
2. A process in accordance with claim 1, wherein on said substrate there are obtained
impressions (2) of the same shape as said decorative elements (3), where the bottom
of said impressions is scratched and then covered with glue; the decorative elements
are then inserted in said impressions and remain fixed therein due to the combined
effect of the glue and the attachment pin (4).
3. A process in accordance with claim 2, wherein the impressions (2) are obtained by
means of compression.
4. A process in accordance with claims 2 or 3, wherein the adhesive effect of the glue
is activated by means of heating.
5. A process in accordance with the preceding claims, wherein a hammer with a ball-shaped
head is used for the hammering.
6. A process in accordance with the preceding claims, wherein the deoxidised decorative
elements are subjected to sanding.
7. A process in accordance with any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickness
of said substrate is at least 0.5 mm.
8. A process in accordance with claim 1, wherein said decorative elements (3) are fixed
on at least one carrier strip (5) by means of their respective attachment pins (4)
in accordance with a pre-established sequence, said strip being subsequently fixed
to said substrate (6), with further decorative strips (7) being then applied by the
sides of said carrier strip in such a way as to protect the lateral edges of said
sequence of decorative elements.
9. A process in accordance with claim 8, wherein said decorative elements are arranged
so as to be partially superposed on the adjacent elements.
10. A process in accordance with claims 8 to 9, wherein or said decorative elements are
applied on several strips arranged with appropriate interspacing on said substrate.
11. A process in accordance with claim 10, wherein said strips carrying said sequences
of decorative elements are glued to said substrate.
12. A process in accordance with claims 8 to 11, wherein said further decorative strips
are clad with ornamental stones.
13. A process in accordance with claim 12, wherein said ornamental stones are strung together
to form a relatively wide pattern (9), said further decorative strips (7) beneath
them being made of high-quality materials.
14. A process in accordance with any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickness
of said metallic material is at least 0.05 mm.
15. A process in accordance with any one of the preceding claims, wherein said substrate
is leather, leatherette or plastic material.
16. A process in accordance with claims 1 to 14, wherein said substrate is of tubular
form and is made of leather.
17. Articles of the sector of fashions, leather goods, clothing, jewellery, furnishing
and personal and environmental ornamentation in general that are produced by means
of a process in a accordance with any one of the preceding claims.