[0001] This invention refers to a textile finishing range and to a fabric finishing process.
[0002] Nowadays, the fabric dimensional stability has a great importance in the finishing
processes.
[0003] With regards to this, a well-known industrial method called "the compressive method"
is implemented by using a thick rubber belt.
[0004] This method solved the problems related to fabric shrinkage and fabric dimensional
stability, that had been previously only partially overcome by means of rudimentary
techniques.
[0005] However, even if the compressive system yielded good results in terms of fabric shrinkage
and stability, it left other problems related to fabric finishing unsolved.
[0006] Indeed, as time went by, fashion requirements became increasingly demanding. For
example, the fabric look, hand and colour intensity gradually became of paramount
importance.
[0007] The purpose of fabric shrinking is the removal, or at least the significant reduction,
of the tensions which have been gathering in the fabric fibres throughout the yarn
construction processes, throughout the weaving process and during the finishing cycles.
[0008] On the other hand, reducing tensions also means changing the dimensions of the fabric,
since, if a fabric shrinks, its longitudinal and transversal dimensions become smaller,
in other words it becomes shorter and narrower.
[0009] This explains the technical name "fabric compacting", since the fabric fibres (threads)
get closer to each other.
[0010] In the textile technical terminology a distinction is drawn between the meaning of
"shrinking" and "compacting" , even if in practice they are used to indicate the same
concept.
[0011] The terms "shrinking" or "sanforizing" indicate the compressive method; "compacting"
indicates the methods by which the fabric is not mechanically forced to shrink, but
in some way put in the condition to do so.
[0012] In the compressive method, because of the surface speed variation given by the rubber
belt compression, the fabric cannot avoid shrinking .
[0013] In the compacting method, the fabric is not forcefully obliged to shrink, but it
is in some way "invited" to shrink, and, as is always the casein nature, if there
is no real compulsion the process will not be fully effected.
[0014] However, with this method it is possible to obtain other results, that are not achievable
with the previous method.
[0015] For example, some types of fabric get a rather rigid hand when compressed.
[0016] With the compressive system, plush is slightly flattened.
[0017] High shrinkage values can produce optical effects, which are different from those
of the original fabric, sometimes giving the impression that the dye colour has partially
faded.
[0018] This is only an optical impression, since there are no actual traces of colour loss:
in fact the fabric resumes its original hue when washed.
[0019] The compacting process can be implemented by means of dryers provided with a vibrating
conveyor belt, or else by means of machines provided with thick felt blankets.
[0020] However, it is easy to understand that either method, and consequently any machine
based thereon, presents deficiencies which can often be detrimental.
[0021] On the other hand, the market is nowadays extremely demanding and requires without
exceptions that the fabric should have definite characteristics and properties. For
a finishing plant to meet all market requirements, the only possibility is to use
two types of machines, one based on the compressive system and the other based on
the compacting one.
[0022] Also the widespread use of knitted fabrics, which on account of their delicate nature
require particular features, often makes it necessary to use both kinds of machines.
[0023] The purpose of this invention is therefore to solve the above problems, designing
a range made up of a sequence of units that are suitable to obtain a very high shrinkage
without compromising the soft hand due to fibre swelling.
[0024] Another purpose of this invention is to design a range that offers great versatility
combined with economic advantages.
[0025] This invention achieves these two aims through a range as specified in claim 1, to
which reference is made for the sake of brevity.
[0026] Other characteristics of this invention are explained in the following claims.
[0027] The claimed invention also includes a process for fabric finishing.
[0028] The invention is hereinafter described in detail, by way of example and without limitation
thereto, referring to the attached drawing, wherein:
- Fig. 1 shows an outline view of the range according to the present invention.
[0029] With reference to Fig. 1, the range for fabric finishing, according to the present
invention, is composed of the following main parts and the range is indicated as a
whole under number 10.
[0030] First of all there is a driven expander centerer guiding device 11, and a vertical
or horizontal chain stretcher 12.
[0031] The range 10 is provided with a group composed of a conveyor belt and a moisturising
unit 13 and a compressive shrinking unit 14.
[0032] The range 10 finally includes a compacting unit 15 and an exit by fold 16.
[0033] Both woven and knitted fabric ( which will be collectively called "fabric" to designate
both the fabric made with weft and yarn and the knitted fabric of any type) can be
fed into the range 10 both by roll and by fold.
[0034] The fabric undergoes the first moistening which can be achieved by any kind of moisturiser,
either by means of steam or water, for instance by means of the unit 13.
[0035] Subsequently there are three possibilities, depending on the type of fabric and on
the desired finishing result.
[0036] The first possibility envisages that the fabric will transit through the compressive
shrinking unit 14 provided with a rubber belt (Sanfor).
[0037] The second possibility envisages the the fabric will go directly into the compacting
unit 15 which is composed of two elements, each of which is made up of a rotating
cylinder, heated by means of steam, diathermic oil or electricity, around which a
felt belt rotates. (This felt belt is usually made of nomex or polyester or other
material resisting to high temperatures of at least 150°C - 180°C).
[0038] For this direct passage it is possible to use the oscillating conveyor belt 20.
[0039] The third possibility envisages that the fabric will go at first into the compressive
shrinking unit 14 provided with a rubber belt (Sanfor), and subsequently, without
interruptions, into the compacting unit 15 provided with synthetic belts, as described
above.
[0040] As already mentioned, this invention has given a universal character to a process
that previously required two distinct or alternative operations.
[0041] The main cases that can be considered are the following.
[0042] First case: delicate knitted fabric meant for a very soft hand following shrinking;
after being moisturised, the fabric is deposited onto a conveyor belt and by means
of overfeeding the fabric is relaxed and goes into the unit provided with the two
felt belts.
[0043] Second case: dyed fabric which, due to the previous treatment, should not be fed
into the rubber belt compressive unit, because the fabric might take on a different
hue.
[0044] In this circumstances as well, after moisturising, the fabric transits through the
conveyor belt into the compacting unit 15 equipped with synthetic material belts 18,
19.
[0045] Third case: heavy fabric, that needs a high shrinkage, but at the same time must
have a soft hand: in this case the fabric must be very well moisturised by means of
one or two moisturising cylinders, or by means of a steaming unit, or a water sprayer.
Afterwards it is fed into the compressive unit 14 (provided with rubber belt 17) and
out of this into the compacting unit 15 equipped with the two synthetic felt belts
18, 19.
[0046] With this process the following results and important advantages are archieved.
[0047] First of all, a high shrinkage is obtained in the first unit.
[0048] In addition, a further shrinkage is possible in the second unit .
[0049] Another advantage is given by the soft hand due to fibre swelling during the passage
in the second unit.
[0050] As a matter of fact, this fibre swelling is caused by the evaporation of the fibre
residual humidity, thus providing the fabric with softness and a nice look.
[0051] The inventiveness of the range which is the subject matter of this invention consists
of a synthesis of the pre-shrinking process for woven and knitted fabrics.
[0052] This allows finishing Companies, especially those who work for third parties, to
avoid all problems related to the type of desired result for any textile product that
needs to be processed in a similar range.
[0053] The present invention is susceptible of numerous changes and variations, all comprising
the inventive concept expressed in the attached claims, whereas the technical details
may vary according to the different needs.
1. Textile finishing range, characterised in that it includes at least one moisturising unit, one compressive shrinking unit, one conveyor
belt and one compacting unit, wherein the above mentioned range has devices for the
passage of the above mentioned fabric either into the compressive shrinking unit or
directly into the compacting unit, or else successively into both the compressive
shrinking unit and the compacting unit.
2. Textile finishing range, as described in claim 1, characterised in that the above mentioned compacting unit is composed of at least two elements, each of
them made up of a cylinder, heated by means of steam, diathermic oil, or electricity,
around which a felt belt rotates.
3. Textile finishing range, as described in claim 2, characterised in that the above mentioned felt belt is made of nomex or polyester or other material resisting
to high temperatures of at least 150°C.
4. Textile finishing range, as described in claim 1, characterised in that the above mentioned compressive shrinking unit is provided with a rubber belt.
5. Textile finishing range, as described in claim 1, characterised in that the above mentioned means that allow the direct passage of the fabric into the above
mentioned compacting unit include an oscillating element.
6. Process for finishing fabric, characterised in that it comprises a first stage consisting of the passage of the fabric into the compressive
shrinking unit and a second stage consisting of the passage of the above mentioned
fabric into the compacting unit, wherein said second stage follows said first stage
without interruption.
7. Process for finishing fabric as described in claim 6, characterised in that either said first stage or said second stage can be omitted.
8. Process for finishing fabric as described in claim 6, characterised in that said first stage follows said second stage without interruption, wherein said second
stage only uses a single felt belt.