TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a novel composite twist yarn, a production method
for composite twist yarn, and to a woven fabric and a knitted fabric using the composite
twist yarn.
BACKGROUND ART
[0002] The following yarns are known as primary composite yarns in which spun yarns and
filaments are combined with each other:
(1) a core yarn constructed such that a cotton-like substance (lump of staples) covers
a core yarn consisting of a filament or filaments, and the entirety is twisted;
(2) a single-covered yarn (a double-covered yarn) constructed such that a single layer
(a multi layer) of spun yarn is entwined around a core yarn consisting of a filament
or filaments; and
(3) a plied yarn constructed such that two or three spun yarns and at least one (usually,
one) filament are twisted with each other.
[0003] Among the above, the core yarn (1) has features that the spun yarn is exposed over
the entirety of the core yarn, has a good texture, warm appearance and touch, and
is categorized into a high-quality yarn. However, in producing the core yarn using
a cotton spun yarn, it is required to secure a yarn strength by enhancing entwining
of the fibers. Accordingly, it is desirable to use relatively long fibers exclusively
as a material for the cotton spun yarn by sorting out and excluding relatively short
fibers, which may lead to an exceedingly low yield of raw cotton or the like. Further,
this method necessitates a sophisticated technique and facility to cover the core
part of filament(s) with the spun yarn, and accordingly may raise the cost of a resultant
composite yarn. In addition, production of core yarns of a fine count is extremely
difficult in light of the constraint on production.
[0004] The covered yarn (2) is the one in which a spun yarn is entwined around the filament
or filaments. The covered yarn has a great yarn strength, good appearance and touch.
However, since it is required to entwine a single layer or a multi layer of the spun
yarn around the filament(s), productivity of the covered yarn (2) as a composite yarn
is low.
[0005] Since the plied yarn (3) is usually produced by making two or three spun yarns and
a filament parallel to each other to a paralleled yarn, and twisting the paralleled
yarn, sorting of raw cotton (removal of staples), which is required in production
of the core yarn (1), is not necessary, and hence productivity of the plied yarn (3)
as a composite yarn is high. Nevertheless, since the plied yarn (3) is the one in
which the spun yarns and the filament are tightly twisted together, the plied yarn
(3) has a stiff texture as a composite yarn and fails to provide a warm appearance
and touch.
[0006] The present invention has been accomplished in view of the above problems residing
in the prior art. A first object of the present invention is to provide a composite
twist yarn having an improved texture, superior (warm) appearance and touch by focusing
on a plied yarn that does not require sorting of raw cotton and is effective in providing
a high yield and productivity as a composite yarn, to establish a novel method capable
of easily producing such a composite twist yarn even with a fine count, and to provide
a woven and knitted fabric having a superior appearance and touch with use of such
a composite twist yarn.
[0007] Another object of the present invention is to provide a technology that enables to
easily produce, with use of a twisting facility and at a low cost, a composite twist
yarn which has a substantially equivalent or superior quality to the expensive core
yarn produced by the conventional complex spinning facility.
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0008] An inventive composite twist yarn that solves the above problems is a composite twist
yarn comprising a spun yarn and at least one filament, the spun yarn and the filament
being twisted with each other, the twisted direction of the composite twist yarn being
substantially identical to the twisted direction of the spun yarn entwined in the
composite twist yarn, and the number of twists of the composite twist yarn being larger
than the number of twists of the spun yarn entwined in the composite twist yarn.
[0009] Preferably, use of an elastic filament as the filament in the composite twist yarn
is extremely advantageous in providing the composite twist yarn with an elasticity,
as well as in terms of appearance and touch.
[0010] Another aspect of the present invention is directed to a method for producing a composite
twist yarn having the above superior properties. The method comprises making a twisted
spun yarn and at least one filament parallel to each other to a paralleled yarn, twisting
the paralleled yarn in a direction reverse to the twisted direction of the spun yarn,
and continuing the twisting in the reverse direction over an untwisted point of the
spun yarn.
[0011] The inventive composite twist yarn has a great yarn strength, superior texture, appearance,
and touch. Accordingly, a woven fabric and a knitted fabric produced with use of at
least part of the inventive composite twist yarn has also a superior texture, appearance,
and touch. Such a woven fabric and a knitted fabric are embraced in the scope of the
present invention.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0012]
FIGS. 1 through 4 are illustrations showing a composite twist yarn and a method for
producing the composite twist yarn according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 5 is an illustration explaining a relation between a change in a twisted direction
and the number of twists with respect to a spun yarn and a paralleled yarn used as
a raw material in implementing the present invention, wherein the spun yarn is denoted
at B, and a filament for the paralleled yarn is denoted at M.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0013] In view of the above problems residing in the prior art, the present inventors have
made a research and development from various viewpoints concerning a composite twist
yarn which has the merits of the plied yarn (3): no need of sorting of raw cotton,
securing a high yield, and feasibility in production, which has overcome the demerits
of the plied yarn: stiff texture, and poor appearance and touch, and which is capable
of producing a sophisticated woven and knitted fabric at a low cost.
[0014] They have found that the conventional plied yarn is usually produced by twisting
two or three spun yarns and a filament together in a direction reverse to the twisted
direction of the spun yarns, and the thus produced plied yarn has drawbacks such as
a poor appearance and a stiff touch because the plied yarn is twisted too much by
the twisting of the spun yarns. In view of this, they have proceeded with a research
based on an idea that the defects of the conventional plied yarn can be overcome by
establishing a technique of entwining a spun yarn with a filament while suppressing
undesired tightening of the twist yarn.
[0015] In the course of the research, they have come up with an idea that undesired tightening
of the spun yarn can be alleviated by a twisting process in which a single spun yarn
and a filament are entwined and twisted together in a direction reverse to the twisted
direction of the spun yarn, because in such a twisting process, as the twisting is
proceeded, the spun yarn is untwisted, whereas twisting two or more spun yarns and
a filament together fails to solve the drawback inherent to the conventional plied
yarn because it is a usual practice to set the twisted direction of the twist yarn
reverse to the twisted direction of the spun yarn.
[0016] Twisting a spun yarn and a filament together in a direction reverse to the twisted
direction of the spun yarn, however, eventually results in untwisting of the spun
yarn, and accordingly, fails to maintain the strength as a composite twist yarn. Namely,
twisting the spun yarn and the filament together in the reverse direction has a limitation
of its own, and a composite twist yarn having a noticeably superior property to the
conventional plied yarn was unable to obtain according to this method. Particularly,
twisting a spun yarn in the reverse direction to such an extent as to nullify the
twist of the spun yarn, namely, to render the twisted spun yarn to a substantially
untwisted state is not practically feasible in a twisting process for producing a
composite twist yarn, because the spun yarn brought to such an untwisted state is
returned to a state of raw cotton, and loses its strength as a yarn.
[0017] In view of the above, the present inventors further proceeded with a research in
an attempt to produce a composite twist yarn having a superior appearance and touch
by securing entwining of a filament and a spun yarn. As a result of the research,
they have found that making a twisted spun yarn and at least one filament parallel
to each other to a paralleled yarn, twisting the paralleled yarn in a direction reverse
to the twisted direction of the spun yarn, and continuing the twisting of the paralleled
yarn in the reverse direction over an untwisted point of the spun yarn is effective
in producing a composite twist yarn having superior properties with respect to all
the features of texture, appearance, and touch, while securing strength as the spun
yarn and entwining of the spun yarn and the filament, and thus, come up with the present
invention.
[0018] As will be clearly described in the following, the composite twist yarn produced
according to the above technique has a unique twist structure as compared with the
conventional and known plied yarn in that the twisted direction of the composite twist
yarn is substantially identical to the twisted direction of the spun yarn in the composite
twist yarn, and that the number of twists of the composite twist yarn is larger than
that of the spun yarn entwined in the composite twist yarn.
[0019] In the following, features of a twisting method unique to the present invention,
and a composite twist yarn produced by the twisting method are described in detail
referring to the drawings illustrating one embodiment of the present invention. It
should be appreciated that various changes and modifications will be apparent to those
skilled in the art. Therefore, unless otherwise such changes and modifications depart
from the scope of the present invention hereinafter defined, they should be construed
as being included therein.
[0020] According to the embodiment of the present invention, a single spun yarn B which
is twisted in a direction shown in FIG. 1 (Z-direction or Z-twist) and a filament
M (monofilament or multifilament) are rendered parallel to each other to a paralleled
yarn A, and the paralleled yarn A is twisted in a direction reverse to the Z-direction
(namely, S-direction or S-twist), as shown in FIG. 2. As the paralleled yarn A is
twisted in the S-direction, the spun yarn is gradually untwisted. As the paralleled
yarn A is applied with S-twists by the number corresponding to the number of untwists
of the spun yarn B, the filament M is entwined around the spun yarn B.
[0021] As the paralleled yarn A is further twisted in the S-direction to such an extent
that the number of S-twists corresponds to the number of Z-twists which have been
applied to the spun yarn B in its initial state before start of the S-twist, then,
the spun yarn B is completely untwisted and rendered to an untwisted state. When the
spun yarn B is brought to the untwisted state, the spun yarn B is turned to a raw
cotton state, and the strength as the spun yarn is lost. However, whereas the spun
yarn B is rendered to such an untwisted state, the filament M is entwined around the
spun yarn B by the number of S-twists corresponding to the number of Z-twists applied
to the spun yarn B in the initial state. Therefore, there is no likelihood that the
spun yarn B in the untwisted state is loosened because the spun yarn B has its outer
portion securely entwined by the filament M.
[0022] In the above, the following should be considered. Since the strength of the untwisted
spun yarn B is substantially zero, the composite twist yarn relies its strength merely
on the strength of the filament M, and accordingly, a sufficient strength may not
be secured. In view of this, according to the embodiment of the present invention,
the paralleled yarn A is continued to be twisted in the reverse direction. As the
paralleled yarn A is further twisted in the reverse direction, as shown in FIG. 4,
the spun yarn B is twisted in the direction (S-direction) reverse to the initially
twisted direction (Z-direction). As the number of S-twists increases, the strength
of the spun yarn B itself is recovered, and the filament M is further entwined around
the spun yarn B, whereby the pitch of the S-twists of the twist yarn (namely, the
composite twist yarn) A increases, and the strength of the composite twist yarn A
increases. Thus, applying the S-twist to the paralleled yarn A to such an extent as
to give a sufficient strength to the spun yarn B over the untwisted state of the spun
yarn B is effective in providing the composite twist yarn with a sufficient strength.
[0023] Relations between changes in the twisted directions and the numbers of twists with
respect to the spun yarn B and the paralleled yarn A are as shown in FIG. 5. Specifically,
referring to FIG. 5, a relation between a change in the twisted direction and the
number of twists of the paralleled yarn A is shown by the solid line X, and a relation
between a change in the twisted direction and the number of twists of the spun yarn
B is shown by the solid line Y. It should be noted that Z-twist (e.g. 20 times per
inch) has been applied to the spun yarn B in its initial state before making a paralleled
yarn A. As the paralleled yarn A is twisted in the S-direction reverse to the initially
twisted Z-direction of the spun yarn B, the paralleled yarn A is applied with the
S-twist, as shown by the solid line Y accompanied by untwisting of the spun yarn B.
When the spun yarn B is brought to an untwisted state (see point Y
1), the paralleled yarn A is applied with S-twists (see point X
1) by the number substantially equal to the number of Z-twists which have been applied
to the spun yarn B in the initial state.
[0024] Subsequently, as the S-twist is further applied to the paralleled yarn A, the spun
yarn B is applied with the S-twist, opposite to the Z-twist which has been initially
applied. As the S-twist is further continued, the number of S-twists to the paralleled
yarn A increases, accompanied by increase of the S-twists to the spun yarn B. When
the spun yarn B reaches the point Y
2 (e.g. 20 times of S-twists per inch), the paralleled yarn A reaches the point X2.
At the point X
2, the paralleled yarn A is applied with the number of twists (namely, 40 times per
inch) which is equal to the sum of the number of twists corresponding to the Z-twists
(20 times per inch) which have been applied to the spun yarn B in the initial state
and the number of twists (20 times per inch) which is additionally applied to the
spun yarn B from the untwisted state.
[0025] Accordingly, the inventive composite twist yarn which has reached the point X
2 is applied in its entirety with the S-twist, in which the twisted direction of the
inventive composite twist yarn is substantially identical to the twisted direction
of the spun yarn B entwined in the composite twist yarn. Thus, the resultant composite
twist yarn has a unique twist structure in which the twisted direction of the composite
twist yarn is substantially identical to the twisted direction of the spun yarn B
entwined therein, and the number of S-twists of the composite twist yarn is larger
than that of the spun yarn entwined in the composite twist yarn.
[0026] Although the twisted direction of the composite twist yarn as a final product differs
depending on the twisted direction of the spun yarn B in the initial state before
the twisting process is initiated, according to the present invention, the twisted
direction of the composite twist yarn as a final product is substantially identical
to the twisted direction of the spun yarn entwined in the composite spun yarn after
the twisting process is terminated.
[0027] The numbers of twists of the composite twist yarn and the spun yarn entwined therein
can be optionally varied by varying the number of twists to be applied to the spun
yarn B in the initial state and the number of twists to be applied to the composite
twist yarn over the untwisted state of the spun yarn B. Generally, the number of twists
to be applied to the spun yarn B in the initial state ranges from about 5 to 45 times
per inch depending on the count of the spun yarn B. A preferred number of times of
twists to be applied to the spun yarn B after the spun yarn B reaches the untwisted
state generally ranges from about 5 to 45 times per inch in order to secure a strength
inherent to the spun yarn B. Therefore, the total number of twists to be applied to
the composite twist yarn as a final product ranges from about 5 to 90 times per inch,
and the number of twists to be applied to the spun yarn B entwined in the composite
twist yarn ranges from about 5 to 45 times per inch, which is about a half of the
total number of twists to be applied to the composite twist yarn.
[0028] More specifically, in case of a spun yarn B of the count No. 20, for example, the
number of twists to be applied to the spun yarn B in the initial state is generally
in the range of 15 to 22 times per inch, most typically around 18 times per inch.
A preferred number of twists to be applied to the spun yarn B after the spun yarn
B reaches its untwisted state is generally in the range of 15 to 22 times per inch
(most typically, around 18 times per inch) to secure a strength inherent to the spun
yarn B. Accordingly, the total number of twists to be applied to the composite twist
yarn as a final product is in the range of 30 to 44 times per inch (most typically,
around 36 times per inch), and the number of twists to be applied to the spun yarn
B entwined in the composite twist yarn is in the range of 15 to 22 times per inch
(most typically, around 18 times per inch), which is about a half of the total number
of twists to be applied to the composite twist yarn.
[0029] In the embodiment of the present invention, since the strength of the composite twist
yarn is remarkably increased by the increase of the number of twists of the filament,
it may be possible to lessen the numbers of twists of the composite twist yarn and
the spun yarn B to from about 80 to 90 % relative to the generally used respective
numbers of twists thereof to secure a sufficient strength.
[0030] In the inventive composite twist yarn, there is a case that the number of twists
of the composite twist yarn is remarkably larger than that of the spun yarn entwined
therein. However, generally, the diameter of the filament to be entwined around the
spun yarn is generally remarkably smaller than that of the spun yarn. Accordingly,
even if a small-diametrical filament is tightly entwined around a large-diametrical
spun yarn, there is no likelihood that the spun yarn is excessively tightened by the
filament, and the outer portion of the spun yarn in the composite twist yarn is sufficiently
exposed while being entwined by the filament. With this arrangement, the resultant
composite twist yarn is provided with a texture, appearance, and touch similar to
those of the core yarn, and a strength substantially equal to that of the plied yarn.
Further, according to the embodiment of the present invention, a single spun yarn
is used. Accordingly, a composite twist yarn of a fine count is easily produced, as
compared with the case of producing a plied yarn with use of two or three spun yarns.
[0031] As mentioned above, the inventive composite twist yarn has the unique twist structure
obtained by implementing the unique twisting method. Specifically, the inventive composite
twist yarn has the features "the twisted direction of the composite twist yarn as
a whole is substantially identical to that of the spun yarn entwined in the composite
twist yarn" and "the number of twists of the composite twist yarn is larger than that
of the spun yarn entwined therein". There is no constraint regarding the material,
size and the like of the spun yarn and the filament. All the kinds of spun yarns and
filaments are usable.
[0032] Specifically, the spun yarn used in the present invention includes spun yarns such
as all the kinds of plant fibers, animal fibers, regenerated fibers, and synthetic
fibers, not to mention most typical spun yarns derived from cotton, hemp, and wool.
Further, usable is a combined filament yarn, which is a combination of at least one
of the aforementioned spun yams and filaments. Generally, a synthetic or semi-synthetic
filament such as polyurethane, polyamide, polyester, acryl, and rayon is used as the
filament in the present invention. Alternatively, a natural filament such as silk
may be used. It is desirable to use an elastic filament which has an elasticity of
its own such as a filament of a polyurethane resin in order to effectively utilize
the property of the elastic filament in light of the fact that the core yarn and the
plied yarn are frequently used as an elastic yarn.
[0033] According to the embodiment of the present invention, it is required to use a single
spun yarn in order to effectively utilize the feature of the abovementioned twisting
process. Use of not less than one spun yarn may not be effective considering the feature
of the present invention that an untwisted state of the spun yarn is utilized. The
size of the spun yarn is not specifically limited. Any size of the spun yarn is selectable
and usable depending on the use and purpose of use of the resultant composite twist
yarn. It is desirable to select the number of twists of the spun yarn depending on
the count of the spun yarn. The number of filaments is not specifically limited. One
or more than one filament (monofilament or multifilament) may be paralleled to a spun
yarn to make a paralleled yarn. Generally, one or two filaments is used, and the size
(denier) thereof can be optionally varied depending on the use and purpose of use
of the resultant composite twist yarn.
[0034] As mentioned above, a composite twist yarn of a fine count can be easily produced
by optionally adjusting the number of twists of the composite twist yarn produced
by twisting a single spun yarn and at least one filament together depending on the
requirements on the resultant composite twist yarn.
[0035] The inventive composite twist yarn can be produced easily and at a low cost without
the necessity of sorting out of raw cotton, which has been required in the production
of the conventional composite twist yarn, and yet exhibits superior texture, appearance,
and touch similar to those of the expensive core yarn, and is usable for producing
sophisticated woven and knitted fabrics.
[0036] The inventive composite twist yarn has the aforementioned features. The features
of the inventive composite twist yarn are effectively exhibited in its use as a raw
material yarn for various woven and knitted fabrics. The weaving pattern and knitting
pattern with use of the inventive composite twist yarn are not specifically limited.
Any weaving pattern such as a plain weaving and a twill weaving are applicable. In
case of producing a woven fabric, the inventive composite twist yarn may be used as
either one of a warp yarn and a weft yarn, or as both of the warp yarn and the weft
yarn. It is needless to say that a woven fabric can be produced by using the inventive
composite twist yarn as part of a warp yarn and/or a weft yarn in combination with
a conventional core yarn or the like.
[0037] In the case of a knitted fabric, the entirety of a knitted fabric can be produced
with use of the inventive composite twist yarn. Alternatively, a knitted fabric may
be produced with partial use of the inventive composite twist yarn in combination
with the other core yarn or the like.
[0038] Specifically, since the inventive composite twist yarn has substantially equivalent
or superior properties to the conventional core yarn, the features of the composite
twist yarn are effectively exhibited even in a partial use thereof, not to mention
its entire use for producing a woven fabric or a knitted fabric. In view of this,
although the mixing ratio of the inventive composite twist yarn to the other kind
of yarn is not specifically limited, the mixing ratio of the inventive composite twist
yarn to the entirety of the yarns constituting a woven fabric (knitted fabric) is
preferably 20% or larger, more preferably 30% or larger, and furthermore preferably
50% or larger in order to effectively utilize the features of the inventive composite
twist yarn.
[0039] Use of the inventive composite twist yarn as, for example, a yarn for a jeans fabric
is preferable because the resultant jeans fabric exhibits a proper elasticity and
flexibility.
[0040] As an example, the present inventors produced the following composite twist yarn
with use of a cotton spun yarn (cotton count No. 20, 18 times of Z-twists per inch)
and an elastic filament (under the trade-name "espa", product of Toyobo Co., Ltd.:
70 deniers, draft: 3.5 times) at a mixing ratio of the cotton spun yarn to the elastic
filament of 93:7 (unit: %). The composite twist yarn was produced by making the cotton
spun yarn and the elastic filament parallel to each other to a paralleled yarn, twisting
the paralleled yarn in a direction reversed to the twisted direction of the cotton
spun yarn, and continuing the twisting over the untwisted point of the cotton spun
yarn up to a state where 18 times of S-twists per inch were applied to the cotton
spun yarn. Thus, the composite twist yarn was applied with 36 times of S-twists per
inch, and the cotton spun yarn entwined in the composite twist yarn was applied with
18 times of S-twists per inch.
[0041] The resultant composite twist yarn was bulky, exhibited an elasticity and a proper
strength with the cotton spun yarn partly appearing on the surface of the composite
twist yarn and the elastic filament being securely entwined around the cotton spun
yarn. The composite twist yarn exhibited desirable texture, appearance, and touch
similar to those of a core yarn.
[0042] The present inventors woven a jeans fabric with use of the thus produced composite
twist yarn as a weft yarn and a cotton spun yarn of the count No. 7 as a warp yarn.
The produced jeans fabric exhibited superior appearance and touch with an elasticity
in a transverse direction thereof being secured.
EXPLOITATION IN INDUSTRY
[0043] The present invention has the aforementioned arrangement, and is advantageous in
easily producing a composite twist yarn adapted for producing a woven and knitted
fabric substantially equivalent or superior to a conventional core yarn in appearance
and touch. The inventive method is advantageous in producing, with use of a twisting
facility easily and at a low cost, a composite twist yarn having a substantially equivalent
or superior quality to an expensive core yarn produced by a complex spinning facility.
The present invention does not require sorting out of cotton spun yarn material (removal
of staples), which has been an essential step in producing a conventional core yarn
in combined use of a cotton spun yarn. With the inventive method, a composite twist
yarn of a high quality can be produced at a low cost. Furthermore, according to the
present invention, since a composite twist yarn of a fine count can be easily produced,
applicability of the inventive composite twist yarn to a woven and knitted fabric
can be broadened.