Technical Field of the Invention
[0001] The present invention relates to a manufacturing method for elastic fiber having
fur-like touch.elastic fiber having fur-like touch made from the same, and fabrics
woven by said fiber and said fiber of the present invention is characterized by having
core -sheath structure and elasticity after twisting and heat-treatment.
[0002] For the manufacturing method of the present invention, elastic thermoplastic polymer
is adopted to central core yarn (CORE YARN), general thermoplastic fiber or modified
thermoplastic polymer of crystalline retarded by third component is used to peripheral
effect yarn (EFFECT YARN), and by means of draw-twister, draw-winder or other filament
combination equipment with heat setting and air entanglement, spin texturing to get
a combined filament yarn having heat drawing characteristic. then said combined filament
yarn is subjected to twistingheat setting, warping or battening to weave or knit to
fabric, then via fabric finishing and processing. High temperature treatment makes
core yarn of combined filament yarn elastic due to heat shrinkage difference and makes
effect yarn of combined filament yarn low Young's modulus. This leads to elastic fiber
having fur-like touch and fabrics woven by said fiber.
Prior Art
[0003] Wool fabrics are mainly comprised of sheep's wool fabrics, which are well appreciated
by the public due to moisture absorption, temperature retention, softness etc. The
wool fabrics have some defects such as felting, poor resistance to acid and alkali,
insect pest, uneasy maintenance and expensive price, so, most polyester fibers having
fur-like touch via false twisting or air jet texturing are developed to fit the long-felt
need, though the fabric woven or knitted from theses polyester fibers having fur-like
touch.but there still exists elasticity and resilience problems in these polyester
fabrics.
[0004] Furthermore conjugate yarn made by covering the outside of polyurethane elastic filament
(Spandex, a brand name of one kind of polyurethane elastic fiber) with staple filament
having fur-like touch, but the manufacturing process of said conjugate yarn is so
complicated and there are many defects as follows:
1. Weak in caustic (NaOH) reduction denier reduction.
2. Poor to high-temperature dyeing and processing.
3. Complex processibility and high cost.
4. Uneasy process tension control, influence product quality.
Detailed Description
[0005] Viewing over the defects of the above products, through careful review on the selection
of raw materials and researches and improvement on process technology, the inventor
finally develops a manufacturing method for elastic fiber having fur-like touch.elastic
fiber having fur-like touch made from the same, and fabrics woven by said fiber and
reduces into practice.
[0006] The present invention of a manufacturing method for elastic fiber having fur-like
touch which is characterized in spinning two kinds of thermoplastic polymer in different
heat shrinkage characteristics by using same spinnerette arranged in side by side
in the way of melt conjugate spinning with winding up velocity of ..... m/min .....
m/min, then heated to draw and set to form conjugate fiber having spiral structure
like spring. Elastic yarn having crimp characteristic is spun as the core yarn of
said conjugate fiber. Different heat shrinkage in used two kinds of thermoplastic
polymer makes core yarn of conjugate fiber elastic and makes effect yarn of conjugate
fiber low Young's modulus. This makes fiber having fur-like touch and fabrics woven
by said fiber elastic
[0007] Said thermoplastic polymers used in the present invention which is spun to form conjugate
fiber, subject to heat drawing and setting through draw twister under the drawing
temperature being set as the glass temperature. Tg. of said thermoplastic polymer±
50., setting temperature being set as the crystalline temperature (Tc) of said thermoplastic
polymer to Tc+100., to get a core-sheath(effect) yarn having core shaped in the center
and sheath covered in the outer layer; If the setting temperature is too low, crimp
elasticity will not exhibit at all. While the setting temperature is too high, shrinkage
difference becomes smaller to affect the elasticity of fabric.
[0008] Said core yarn having elasticity is formed by using thermoplastic polymer selected
from the group of polyethylene terephthalate(PET), polybutylene terephthalate(PBT),
poly trimethylene terephthalate(PTT) and their modified polymer,
[0009] Said sheath(effect) yarn is formed by using thermoplastic polymer selected from the
group of polyethylene terephthalate(PET) and said modified thermoplastic polymer of
crystalline retarded by third component; said modified thermoplastic polymer of crystalline
retarded by third component is one or more than one selected from the group of orthophthalic
acid, adipic acidsebacic acid isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid. Specification
and kind of conjugate yarn can be prepared by one filament or more than one filament
for the requirement of fabric gloss. Different amount of delustering agent or basic
dyeable polymer can be added during the polymerization to produce elastic fabric having
fur-like touch of different gloss or different color. Said effect yarn is made into
pre-drawn filament via high speed spinning of 2400 meters/min to 4500 meters/min and
then via heat drawing treatment. The treatment temperature is set as the crystallization
temperatureTg. of said thermoplastic polymer± 50..the treatment time is set as ........
second. The effect yarn after treatment has heat drawing characteristic with boiling
water shrinkage rate below 2% at 130.
[0010] The core-effect yarn obtained from elastic fiber having fur-like touch as per the
manufacturing method in this invention, is put into heat drawing treatment in the
same process, then subject to form combined filament yarn via air nozzle, and the
twisting count of 300∼2300 T/M (twist/meter) is given as per the fabric texture density
and hand feeling demand and the separately textured yarn can be combined by the combiner
to entangle with each other ready for use. The weaving can be easily influenced due
to the torque occurred in yarn after the yarn being highly twisted so the yarn should
be heat set by steaming. Its treatment temperature is between 50 to 90, the residual
twisting torsion(Kr value) of set yarn is below 3. High shrinkage combined filament
yarn, such as textured yarn having fur-like touch ( trademark: MILPA, Teijin corporation,
Japan)is conventionally used, and corrugate paper or other stuffing object is used
to reserve space in the inner layer for prevention of the shrinkage difference of
core and effect yarn(outer and inner layer) in the core-effect yarn to affect the
dyability when steaming. Said shrinkage differences always induce to undesirable stain
(unevenness) in fabric quality.
[0011] Said core-sheath(effect) yarn is then subject to spin texturing to form fiber having
heat drawing characteristic, and combining to tangle with each other by air nozzle
to get elastic fiber having fur-like touch.
[0012] To give full play to elasticity effect the elongation rate of the effect yarn of
fiber having fur-like touch obtained from as per the manufacturing method in this
invention is 50∼150% higher than that of the core yarn. Said fiber having fur-like
touch is then subject to twisting to form core-effect yarn structure for use in warp
yarn or weft yarn, regulated as per fabric texture to manufacture fabric having elastic
elongation over 10%. The elasticity effect can be elevated and wearing comfortability
can be highly satisfied. Additionally, elastic fiber having fur-like touch obtained
from as per the manufacturing method in this invention has high temperature and acid-alkali
resistance capable of high temperature dyeing and caustic reduction without influence
on elasticity effect, and the effect yarn under heat drawing has thick dyeing effect
meeting the demands for deep color fabric.
Explanation of an analysis method
[0013]
1. Crystallization temperature: yarn sample 1.0∼2.0 mg; with differential scanning
calorimeter( Perkin-Elmer DSC., temperature range 50∼300., heating rate 20./minute),
take the peak point of scanning crystallization temperature as crystallization temperature(Tc).
2. Elastic elongation rate: fabric sample in...cm X 30 cm length; with universal tensile
testing machine (INSTRON -6012); measure the initial length L1 with initial load 12g; test the length L2 under tension speed 1.667 mm/sec, recovery speed 10 mm/min constant tension 750g.
The Elastic elongation rate can be expressed as following formula. Elastic elongation
rate= L2-L1/L1 X 100%
3. Twisting torsion(Kr value)
Put the yarn before and after setting on the five points of the upper and lower end
of Kringelfakter meter, wind the yarn and fix the upper end, allow the lower end depart
the supporting point, then hang the standard hook at the lower end, read the twisting
count scale, take the five times mean value as twisting torsion.
Brief Description of the Drawings
[0014]
Fig. 1 illustrates the drawing equipment for carrying out the method of the invention.
Fig. 2 illustrates other drawing equipment for carrying out the method of the invention.
. pre-oriented yarn A having potential crimped characteristic
2. modified pre-oriented yarn having spontaneously elongation characteristic
3. feed roller of drawing apparatus
4. heating roller
5. heating plate
6. drawing roller 1
7. drawing roller 2
8. air nozzle
9. heat drawn elastic yarn
Example
[0015] The present embodiments are to be considered in all respects as illustrative and
not restrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appended claims
rather than by the foregoing description and all changes which come within the meaning
and range of equivalency of the claims are therefore intended to be embraced therein
Example 1
[0016] Two thermoplastic polymers with different heat shrinkage coefficient at the ratio
of 50:50 are adopted by using same spinnerette arranged in side by side in the way
of melt conjugate spinning to form conjugate fiber. The core yarn is spun under spinning
temperature 285., 12 spinnerettes in spinning head, winding speed 3200m/min, wound
to form pre-oriented yarn POY A(.) of 80d/12f. via the heating roller( 4), heating
plate( 5), draw roller( 6 )of drawing machine shown as Fig.1.with draw ratio 1.6 times,
drawing temperature 90 ., setting temperature 160., drawn and heat set to get crimped
elastic core yarn. While the effect yarn is spun by use of semi-dull polyester polymer
under spinning temperature 290., 36 spinnerettes in spinning head, winding speed 3600m/min,
wound to form pre-oriented yarn POY B(2), via drawing roller 1(6) and drawing roll
.(7), to posses heat draw characteristic after 120. low tension heat treatment, 130.
boiling water shrinkage rate of-1.0%. To entangle said two yarn after heat draw treatment
via air nozzle (8) with each other to get elastic fiber having fur-like touch ( heat
drawn elastic yarn)(9) of 1000 d/48f.
[0017] Then, the elastic fiber having fur-like touch(9) is subject to twisting in the manner
of 1100T/m, steaming to set (65 . x.5 min) for warping and battening, woven in 1/1
plain weave to form fabric. The fabric then is subject to relaxation treatment (120.
x 20 min), pre-setting(160 x 30 sec). caustic reduction NaOH 3%, 95. x 60 min to reduction
rate 10%, dyeing with disperse dyestuff (135 . x 60 min) and post- setting(160 . x
30 sec).The finished fabric has elasticity and fur-like touch, warp density of 160
stripes/inch and weft density of 90 stripes/inch, longitudinal elasticity of 15..traversal
elasticity of 12%.
Example 2
[0018] Two thermoplastic polymers with different heat shrinkage coefficient at the ratio
of 50:50 are adopted by using same spinnerette arranged in side by side in the way
of melt conjugate spinning to form conjugate fiber. The core yarn is spun under spinning
temperature 285., 12 spinnerettes in spinning head, winding speed 3200m/min, wound
to form pre-oriented yarn POY A(.) of 50d/12f. A basic dyeable polymer is spun under
spinning temperature 285., 36 spinnerettes(hole diameter 0.2 mm) in spinning head,
winding speed 3200m/min, wound to form pre-oriented yarn POY B(2), via 100. heating
roller( 4), drawing roller( 6 )of drawing machine. shown as Fig.2, low tension heat
treatment to get effect yarn having heat elongation characteristic. The 130. boiling
water shrinkage rate of said effect yarn is 1.5 %, while the hot water(70.) shrinkage
is 15%. The difference of elongation rate between POY A(.) and POY B(2) is 70%. To
entangle said two yarn via air nozzle (8) with each other to get basic dyeable elastic
fiber having fur-like touch( heat drawn elastic yarn) (9) of 1000 d/48f.
[0019] Then, the elastic fiber having fur-like touch(9) is subject to twisting in the manner
of 1100T/m, steaming to set (65 x.0 min) for warping and battening, woven in dobby
weave to form dobby cloth. The cloth then is subject to relaxation treatment (120.
x 20 min),pre-setting(160 . x 30 sec), caustic reduction .NaOH 1%, 95. x 60 min.to
reduction rate 10%, dyeing with basic dyestuff (120 x 60 min) and post- setting(160.
x 30 sec).The finished cloth has different color and elasticity, warp density of 130
stripes/inch and weft density of 90 stripes/inch, longitudinal elasticity of 20..traversal
elasticity of 15%.
1. manufacturing method for elastic fiber having fur-like touch which is
characterized in :
spinning two kinds of thermoplastic polymer in different heat shrinkage characteristics
by using same spinnerette arranged in side by side in the way of melt conjugate spinning
to form conjugate fiber having spiral structure like spring;
heat drawing and setting said conjugate fiber through draw twister for ..... second,
the drawing temperature being set as the glass temperature.Tg. of said thermoplastic
polymer± 50., setting temperature being set as the crystalline temperature (Tc) of
said thermoplastic polymer +100., to get a core-sheath(effect) yarn having core shaped
in the center and sheath covered in the outer layer; said core yarn having elasticity
is formed by using thermoplastic polymer selected from the group of polyethylene terephthalate(PET),
polybutylene terephthalate(PBT), polytrimethylene terephthalate(PTT) and their modified
polymer, and said sheath(effect) yarn is formed by using thermoplastic polymer selected
from the group of polyethylene terephthalate(PET) and said modified thermoplastic
polymer of crystalline retarded by third component;
spin texturing said core-sheath(effect) yarn to form fiber having heat drawing characteristic
and combining to tangle with each other by air nozzle to get elastic fiber having
fur-like touch.
2. The manufacturing method of claim1, said modified thermoplastic polymer of crystalline
retarded by third component is one or more than one selected from the group of orthophthalic
acid, adipic acid sebacic acidisophthalic acid and terephthalic acid.
3. An elastic fiber having fur-like touch, which is characterized in being made from the manufacturing method according to claim 1, wherein the elongation
rate of the outer effect(sheath) yarn is 50%∼150% higher than that of the center core
yarn, said fiber is formed into core-sheath structure by draw twisting and used for
warp or weft.
4. An elastic fabric having fur-like touch, which is characterized in being woven or knitted from the fiber made from the manufacturing method according
to claim 1∼3 to get a fabric having an elastic elongation over 10%.