RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims priority to the Japanese Patent Application No. 2001-304030
filed on September 28, 2001, which is incorporated herein by reference.
FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The present invention relates to a base for a skin external composition and cosmetics
and, in particular, to improvement of the feeling thereof.
BACKGOUND OF THE INVENTION
[0003] A base used in cosmetics can be roughly classified into an aqueous base and an oily
base. The oily base, a representative of which includes a triglyceride and a silicone
oil, is aimed mainly at imparting the sticky-free feeling and the smooth feeling to
a skin, while the aqueous base, a representative of which includes glycerin, propylene
glycol and polyethylene glycol, is aimed mainly at imparting the moist feeling to
a skin.
[0004] However, these oily base and aqueous base have the low compatibility with each other.
Therefore, when these two bases are blended in order to impart both of the smooth
feeling and the moist feeling, a large amount of an emulsifier is required. However,
a large amount of an emulsifier promotes the sticky feeling, loses the moist feeling,
and becomes a negative factor for appearance and stability of the composition. For
this reason, a base sufficiently satisfying both of the smooth feeling and the moist
feeling has never been obtained.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] The present invention was done in view of the problems in the prior art, and an object
of the present invention is to provide a base for a skin external composition excellent
in the feeing of use.
[0006] In order to attain the aforementioned object, the present inventors extensively studied
and, as a result, found that a specified alkylene oxide derivative has the excellent
usability as a base for a skin external composition, which resulted in completion
of the present invention.
[0007] That is, the base for a skin external composition of the present invention comprises,
as a main ingredient, an alkylene oxide derivative represented by the following formula
(I):
R
1O-[(AO)
m(EO)
n]-R
2 (I)
wherein AO is an oxyalkylene group having a carbon number of 3 to 4 and EO is an oxyethylene
group, said oxyalkylene group having a carbon number of 3 to 4 and said oxyethylene
group may be in a block addition or a random addition;
m and n are average addition mole numbers of the oxyalkylene group and the oxyethylene
group, respectively, within a range of 1≦m≦70 and 1≦n≦70, wherein a ratio of the oxyethylene
group to a sum of the oxyalkylene group having a carbon number of 3 to 4 and the oxyethylene
group is 20 to 80% by weight; and
R
1 and R
2 may be the same or different, and are a hydrocarbon group having a carbon number
of 1 to 4 or a hydrogen atom, wherein a ratio of the number of hydrogen atoms to the
number of hydrocarbon groups of R
1 and R
2 is 0.15 or smaller.
[0008] In said base, it is preferable that the oxyalkylene group and the oxyethylene group
are in a random addition.
[0009] The cosmetic composition of the present invention is characterized in that said base
for a skin external composition is incorporated at 0.01 to 70% by weight.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0010] In the alkylene oxide derivative represented by the formula (I), AO is an oxyalkylene
group having a carbon number of 3 to 4. Examples thereof include oxypropylene, oxybutylene,
oxyisobutylene, oxytrimethylene and oxytetramethylene groups, preferably oxypropylene
or oxybutylene group.
[0011] In the derivative, m is an average addition mole number of the oxyalkylene group
having a carbon number of 3 to 4, within 1≦m≦70, preferably 2≦m≦30, more preferably
2 ≦m≦20. n is an average addition mole number of an oxyethylene group, within 1≦n≦
70, preferably 2≦m≦30, more preferably 2≦n≦20. When the number of the oxyalkylene
group having a carbon number of 3 to 4 or the oxyethylene group is 0, the moist feeling
is deteriorated. On the other hand, when the number exceeds 70, the feeling becomes
sticky and can not becomes smooth sufficiently.
[0012] In addition, a ratio of the oxyethylene group to a sum of the oxyalkylene group having
a carbon number of 3 to 4 and the oxyethylene group is preferably 20 to 80% by weight,
more preferably 30 to 70% by weight. When the ratio of the oxyethylene group is smaller
than 20% by weight, the moist feeling tends to be inferior and, when the ratio exceeds
80% by weight, the smooth feeling tends to be inferior.
[0013] The addition order of the ethylene oxide and the alkylene oxide having a carbon number
of 3 to 4 is not particularly limited. The oxyethylene group and the oxyalkylene group
having a carbon number of 3 to 4 may be in a block addition or a random addition.
The block addition includes not only 2 step-wise block but also 3 step-wise block.
Preferable is a random addition.
[0014] R
1 and R
2 are a hydrocarbon group having a carbon number of 1 to 4 or a hydrogen atom. Examples
of the hydrocarbon group include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl,
and tert-butyl groups. Preferable are methyl or ethyl group, and more preferable is
methyl group. In the case of a hydrocarbon group having a carbon number of 5 or more,
the hydrophilicity is reduced, and the moist feeling is deteriorated. R
1 and R
2 may be the same or different.
[0015] As R
1 and R
2, only one kind of a variable may be present, or both of a hydrocarbon group having
a carbon number of 1 to 4 and a hydrogen atom may be present. Alternatively, different
hydrocarbon groups having a carbon number of 1 to 4 may be present. However, in hydrocarbon
groups of R
1 and R
2, a ratio of the hydrocarbon groups and the hydrogen atoms to be present is such that
Y/X is 0.15 or smaller, preferably 0.06 or smaller, said Y/X is a ratio of the number
of hydrogen atoms (Y) to the number of hydrocarbon groups (X). When the ratio of Y/X
exceeds 0.15, the feeling becomes sticky.
[0016] The base for a skin external composition of the present invention can be prepared
by the known method. For example, a compound having a hydroxy group is addition-polymerized
with both of ethylene oxide and alkylene oxide having a carbon number of 3 to 4, and
then subjected to an ether reaction with an alkyl halide in the presence of an alkali
catalyst, thereby obtaining the base.
[0017] The skin external composition of the present invention is an external composition
included "cosmetics" and "quasi-drug" defined in Japanese Pharmaceutical Affairs Law.
A form of such cosmetics containing the base for a skin external composition is not
particularly limited, and may be any of an aqueous cosmetic, a water-in-oil or oil-in-water
emulsion cosmetic, and an oily cosmetic. It may be various forms such as shampoo,
rinse, body soap, face wash, skin lotion, milky lotion, cream, hairdressing, rouge,
and hair growth preparation.
[0018] An amount of the base for a skin external composition to be incorporated into the
cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but the base is incorporated
at usually around 0.01 to 70% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 40% by weight, further
preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight.
EXAMPLES
[0019] Examples of the present invention will be explained below.
[0020] First, the present inventors assessed various bases for a skin external composition
about the water-solubility, the sticky feeling and the moist feeling based on the
following criteria:
(Water-solubility test)
[0021] An aqueous solution containing 10% by weight of the compound was prepared, and its
state was observed. Completely dissolved state is most preferable, but the effect
of the present invention can be exerted even in the emulsified state. In the insoluble
state, the effect can not be obtained. For this reason, completely dissolved or emulsified
or more soluble was regarded to be effective.
○: Completely dissolved
Δ: Emulsified
×: Insoluble
(Organoleptic assessment)
[0022] An aqueous solution containing 10% by weight of the compound was prepared, and the
sticky-free feeling (smooth feeling) and the moist feeling were assessed using 10
professional panelists. As an assessment method, an upper arm part was washed, and
then a sample was applied thereon. From immediately after the application to 30 minutes
after the application, the sticky-free feeling and the moist feeling were evaluated
according to the five-grade system. When a total score obtained thereby was thirty-five
or higher, it was determined to be favorable.
Sticky-free feeling (smooth feeling)
[0023]
5: Very spreadable and, when a skin was rubbed, not frictional and very soft touch
4: Spreadable and, when a skin was rubbed, not frictional and soft touch
3: Slightly less spreadable and, when a skin was rubbed, bit frictional touch
2: Less spreadable and, when a skin was rubbed, frictional and heavy touch
1: Much less spreadable and, when a skin was rubbed, frictional and very heavy touch
Moist feeling
[0024]
5: Not dry at all, and sufficiently moist touch
4: Not dry, and moist touch
3: Slightly dry, and slightly less moist touch
2: Rough, and less moist touch
1: Very dry, and much less wet

[0025] As a result, it was revealed that the EO/PO derivative having hydrocarbon groups
attached to both ends thereof is excellent in the sticky feeling and the moist feeling
as compared with a general base for a skin external composition such as silicone oil
and olive oil. Then, the present inventors further studied the compound represented
by formula I. Respective compounds shown below were prepared according to Synthesis
Example 1 or 2.
Synthesis Example 1 Synthesis example of random polymer
Polyoxyethylene (10mol) polyoxypropylene (10mol) dimethyl ether (Compound 2) CH3O[(EO)10/(PO)10]CH3
[0026] In the following Examples, EO represents an oxyethylene group, PO represents an oxypropylene
group, and [(EO)/(PO)] represents a random bond.
[0027] 76g of propylene glycol and 3.1g of potassium hydroxide as a catalyst were placed
into an autoclave. After the air in the autoclave was replaced with dry nitrogen,
the catalyst was completely dissolved at 140 °C while stirring. Then, a mixture of
440g of ethylene oxide and 522g of propylene oxide was added dropwise thereto by a
dropping device, and the mixture was stirred for 2 hours. Then, 224g of potassium
hydroxide was placed thereinto. After the system was replaced with dry nitrogen, 188g
of methyl chloride was injected therein at a temperature of 80 to 130 °C and a reaction
was performed for 5 hours. Thereafter, the reaction composition was taken out from
the autoclave, neutralized with hydrochloric acid to pH 6 to 7, and then treated at
100 °C for 1 hour under reduced pressure of 0.095MPa (50mmHg) to remove the contained
water. After the treatment, filtering was performed to remove the produced salt, to
give a base of Compound 2.
[0028] Before the reaction with methyl chloride, sampling was performed. The sample purified
had a hydroxyl value of 107, Compound 2 had a hydroxyl value of 0.4, and a ratio of
the number of hydrogen atoms to the number of terminal methyl groups was 0.004. Therefore,
the hydrogen atom was almost completely converted to methyl group.
Synthesis Example 2 Synthesis of block polymer
Polyoxyethylene 10mol) polyoxypropylene (10mol) dimethyl ether (Compound 9) CH3O(EO)5(PO)10(EO)5CH3
[0029] 76g of propylene glycol and 3.1 g of potassium hydroxide as a catalyst were placed
into an autoclave. After the air in an autoclave was replaced with dry nitrogen, and
the catalyst was completely dissolved at 140 °C while stirring. Then, 522g of propylene
oxide was added dropwise thereto by a dropping device, and the mixture was stirred
for 2 hours. Subsequently, 440g of ethylene oxide was added dropwise thereto by a
dropping device, and the mixture was stirred for 2 hours. Then, 224g of potassium
hydroxide was placed thereinto. After the system was replaced with dry nitrogen, 188g
of methyl chloride was injected therein at 80 to 130 °C and a reaction was performed
for 5 hours. Thereafter, the reaction composition was taken out from the autoclave,
neutralized with hydrochloric acid to pH 6 to 7, and then treated at 100 °C for 1
hour under reduced pressure of 0.095MPa (50mmHg) to remove the contained water. After
the treatment, filtering was performed to remove the produced salt, to give a base
of Compound 9.
[0030] Before the reaction with methyl chloride, sampling was performed. The sample purified
had a hydroxyl value of 110, Compound 9 had a hydroxyl value of 0.3, and a ratio of
the number of hydrogen atoms to the number of terminal methyl groups was 0.003. Therefore,
the hydrogen atom was almost completely converted to methyl group.
[0031] According to the forgoing respective Preparation Examples, various alkylene oxide
derivatives were prepared and assessed as a base for a skin external composition.
(Determination of R1, R2)
[0032] First, the present inventors assessed R
1 and R
2 as well as the suitability as a base for a skin external composition. The results
are shown in the following Table 2. In any compounds, as EO and PO parts,
[(EO)
10/(PO)
10]
is used.
[0033] A ratio of unsubstitution is expressed as Y/X, which is a ratio of the number of
hydrogen atoms (Y) to the number of hydrocarbon groups (X).
TABLE 2
| Compound |
R1 |
R2 |
Y/X |
Water-solubility |
Sticky feeling |
Moist feeling |
| 1 |
H |
H |
- |
○ |
31 |
40 |
| 2 |
CH3 |
CH3 |
0.004 |
○ |
44 |
45 |
| 3 |
C12H25 |
CH3 |
0.006 |
Δ |
36 |
33 |
[0034] As apparent from Table 2, the excellent water-solubility and feeling of use were
obtained when a carbon number of both of R
1 and R
2 is 1 to 4 (Compound 2).
[0035] To the contrary, when R
1 and R
2 are a hydrogen atom (Compound 1), the sticky feeling is strong. When R
1 is C12 (Compound 3), the water-solubility is deteriorated, and the sticky feeling
and the moist feeling were both not preferable.
[0036] Since all of R
1 and R
2 are not always substituted with a hydrocarbon group upon actual preparation, an acceptable
existence ratio of the unsubstituted (H) compound was studied. In the following Table
3, 1:2 = 5:95 means that Compound 1 and Compound 2 were mixed at a ratio of 5:95 to
adjust to a predetermined Y/X.
TABLE 3
| Compound |
R1 |
R2 |
Y/X |
Water-solubility |
Sticky feeling |
Moist feeling |
| 1 |
H |
H |
- |
○ |
31 |
40 |
| 2 |
CH3 |
CH3 |
0.004 |
○ |
44 |
45 |
| 1 :2= 5:95 |
|
|
0.053 |
○ |
39 |
42 |
| 1:2=20:80 |
|
|
0.202 |
○ |
33 |
41 |
[0037] As apparent from the above Table 3, even when R
1 and R
2 are partially unreacted, if an amount of unreacted R
1 or R
2 is small (Y/X=0.053), there is no great influence. However, when Y/X becomes 0.202,
the sticky feeling is clearly produced. The present inventors further studied in detail
and, as a result, it was revealed that Y/X is necessary to be 0.15 or smaller.
(Oxyalkylene and oxyethylene groups)
[0038] Then, the present inventors studied the presence of the oxyalkylene group and the
oxyethylene group as well as the suitability as a base for a skin external composition.
[0039] The results are shown in the following Table 4. In all of compounds, R
1 and R
2 are each CH
3. In all of compounds, the part of [(EO)/(PO)] is in a random addition.
TABLE 4
| Compound |
EO |
PO |
Y/X |
Water-solubility |
Sticky feeling |
Moist feeling |
| 4 |
20 |
0 |
0.010 |
○ |
30 |
39 |
| 5 |
15 |
5 |
0.010 |
○ |
41 |
35 |
| 2 |
10 |
10 |
0.004 |
○ |
44 |
45 |
| 6 |
6 |
14 |
0.008 |
○ |
36 |
35 |
| 7 |
0 |
20 |
0.019 |
× |
37 |
23 |
| 8 |
25 |
25 |
0.004 |
○ |
36 |
40 |
[0040] As apparent from Table 4, the presence of both of the oxyalkylene group and the oxyethylene
group is indispensable for the base of the present invention. By further detailed
study by the present inventors, it was revealed that a suitable ratio of the oxyethylene
group to a sum of the oxyalkylene group and the oxyethylene group is 20 to 80 % by
weight.
[0041] Further, the present inventors prepared a block polymer and a random polymer at the
same alkylene group number and oxyethylene group number, and they were compared.
TABLE 5
| Compound |
EO |
PO |
Y/X |
Water-solubility |
Sticky feeling |
Moist feeling |
| 9 |
CH3O(EO)5(PO)10(EO)5CH3 |
0.003 |
○ |
39 |
40 |
| 2 |
CH3O[(EO)10/(PO)10]CH3 |
0.004 |
○ |
44 |
45 |
[0042] As apparent from the above Table 5, even a block polymer or a random polymer can
extert the effects of the present invention and, in particular, in the case of a random
polymer, the excellent feeling of use can be obtained.
Incorporation in cosmetics
[0043] Then, the present inventors actually incorporated various compounds into cosmetics,
and assessed them.
[0044] The compound, propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 300) shown
in Table 6(hereinafter, test compound) was incorporated into an aqueous phase part.
An oily phase part out of the base consisted of the following composition was warmed
to 60 °C to be uniformly dissolved. Then, the aqueous phase part was added to the
oil phase part at the same temperature while stirring, to prepare a cream, which was
assessed as described above.
| Oil phase part |
Cetanol |
2.0 wt% |
| |
Beeswax |
6.0 wt% |
| |
Petrolatum |
5.0 wt% |
| |
Squalane |
34.0 wt% |
| |
Isopropylmyristate |
5.0 wt% |
| |
Glyceryl monostearate |
2.0 wt% |
| |
Stearic acid |
0.5 wt% |
| |
Polyoxyethylene (18mol) dodecyl ether |
1.5wt% |
| |
Perfume |
q.s. |
| |
Antiseptics |
q.s. |
| |
Test compounds |
4.0 wt% |
| |
Purified water |
Balance |
[0045] The prepared creams were subjected to the organoleptic assessment.
TABLE 6
| Compound |
EO weight ratio |
Sticky feeling |
Moist feeling |
| 1 |
43 |
34 |
37 |
| 2 |
43 |
42 |
40 |
| 3 |
43 |
36 |
32 |
| 4 |
100 |
33 |
38 |
| 5 |
69 |
41 |
35 |
| 6 |
24 |
37 |
36 |
| 8 |
43 |
35 |
39 |
| 9 |
43 |
38 |
37 |
| Formula (III) |
100 |
34 |
38 |
| C6H13O(EO)6C6H13 |
100 |
38 |
31 |
| Propylene glycol |
- |
32 |
39 |
| Polyethylene glycol (M.W.300) |
100 |
33 |
36 |
[0046] As apparent from Table 6, like the results of assessment of a single base aforementioned,
each Compounding Example containing the base of the present invention (Compound 2,
5, 6, 8 or 9) satisfies both scores of the sticky-free feeling and the moist feeling,
and it can be understood that the base has a function as a base for a skin external
composition such as a light feeling. However, other Comparative Examples do not satisfy
two properties at the same time.
[0047] As explained above, the base for a skin external composition and cosmetics containing
the same have both properties of the excellent smooth feeling and moist feeling, and
have a favorable touch. Accordingly, the base can exert the most effective performance
when incorporated in cosmetics.