FIELD OF THE INVENTION
[0001] The present invention relates to a crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, to a process for producing the
same, and to textile products prepared therefrom. More particularly, the present invention
relates to a woven or knitted fabric which comprises crimped filaments the percentage
of crimp of which decreases upon wetting with water and filaments other than the crimped
filaments, and has a performance such that the surface of the woven or knitted fabric
manifests a roughness upon wetting with water and the roughness decreases or disappears
upon drying, whereby clothes produced from the woven or knitted fabric do not cling
or hardly cling to the skin even when wetted by perspiration, as well as to a process
for producing the same and to textile products prepared therefrom.
BACKGROUND ART
[0002] When sportswear or underwear produced from woven or knitted fabrics comprising conventional
fibers or natural fibers is worn, there is a known problem such that when the wearer
sweats, the conventional fabrics are unpleasantly close and sticky on the skin due
to the sweat.
[0003] Against vaporized sweat generated in the initial stage of perspiration, it has become
common to employ clothes produced from fibers with high hygroscopicity as the constituent
materials of clothes, or clothes formed from woven or knitted fabrics having a loose
structure and a low density in order to increase the air permeability.
[0004] On the other hand, for liquid sweat generated during the middle and later stages
of perspiration, there have been proposed multi-ply structured woven or knitted fabrics
having a difference in density between the outside ply and inside ply (skin side)
of the woven or knitted fabrics to allow sweat absorbed in the skin side ply to rapidly
migrate to the outside ply (for example, see Patent Reference 1), and to use clothes
formed from woven or knitted fabrics having a roughness formed on the skin side surface
of woven or knitted fabrics to decrease the contact area between the skin and clothes
and to decrease the degree of stickiness (for example, see Patent documents 2 and
3). However, in the former case, perspiration exceeding the saturated moisture absorption
of the clothes results in residue of sweat on the skin side, causing the clothes to
stick to the skin. In the latter case, where the surface roughness of the clothes
is insufficient, perspiration in a large amount causes the clothes to stick to skin,
and when the extent of roughness is increased in order to avoid the sticking, the
air content of the woven or knitted fabric increases resulting in higher heat retention
and thereby aiding perspiration, while the convexities of the roughness also rub against
the skin producing an uncomfortable prickling feel, and are also abraded on the skin
tending to create pilings.
[0005] It has therefore been desired to develop woven and knitted fabrics which can reduce
such stickiness by reversibly manifesting roughness on the woven or knitted fabric
surface when wetted with water.
DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION
[0009] An object of the present invention is to provide a woven or knitted fabric which
manifests roughness on the surface when wetted with water in such a manner that the
roughness is reduced or disappears upon drying, as well as a process for producing
it and textile products obtained therefrom which do not become uncomfortable upon
wetting by sweat produced by perspiration.
[0010] This object is achieved by the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
of the present invention, the process for producing it and textile products therefrom.
[0011] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, and comprises yarns comprising
crimped filaments A the percentage of crimp of which decreases upon wetting with water,
and yarns comprising filaments B comprising at least one type of filaments selected
from non-crimped filaments and crimped filaments which undergo substantially no change
in percentage of crimp upon wetting with water,
is characterized in that the change in roughness calculated by the equation:

wherein TD represents a thickness of the woven or knitted fabric measured after standing
it in an environment having a temperature of 20°C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24
hours and TW represents a largest thickness of the water-wetted portion of the woven
or knitted fabric measured one minute after 1 ml of water has been dropped onto the
woven or knitted fabric, is 5% or greater.
[0012] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, the crimped filaments A are preferably
selected from crimped conjugate filaments comprising a polyester resin component and
a polyamide resin component which components are different from one another in terms
of water-absorption and self-elongation properties, and bonded to one another in a
side-by-side structure, the conjugate filaments having crimps formed by revealing
the latent crimpability of the conjugate filaments.
[0013] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, the polyester resin component preferably
comprises a modified polyethylene terephthalate resin comprising 5-sodiumsolfoisophthalic
acid copolymerized in an amount of 2.0-4.5 molar percent based on the content of the
acid component of the resin.
[0014] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, the yarn comprising the crimped
filaments A is preferably twisted at the number of twist of 0-300 T/m.
[0015] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, the filaments B preferably comprises
a polyester resin.
[0016] In the crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, the fabric preferably at least
one portion Y composed entirely of the crimped filaments A and at least one portion
Z composed entirely of the filaments B, the Z portion being formed continuously in
either or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both the course and wale
directions of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0017] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water may comprise at least one portion
Z composed entirely of the filaments B and at least one portion X composed of the
filaments A and the filaments B, the Z portion being formed continuously in either
or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both the course and wale directions
of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0018] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water may comprise at least one portion
X composed of the crimped filaments A and the filaments B and at least one portion
Y composed entirely of the crimped filaments A, the X portion being formed continuously
in either or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both the course and
wale directions of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0019] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, may comprise at least one portion
X composed of the crimped filaments A and the filaments B, at least one portion Y
composed entirely of the crimped filaments A and at least one portion Z composed entirely
of the filament B, the Z portion being formed continuously in either or both the warp
and weft directions or in either or both the course and wale directions of the woven
or knitted fabric.
[0020] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water may have a multi-ply weave or knit
structure with two or more plies, at least one ply of the multi-ply structure being
composed of the crimped filaments A and the filaments B, while at least one other
ply being composed entirely of the filaments B, and the ply containing the filaments
A and B and the other ply containing the filaments B being partially bound with each
other.
[0021] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water may have a multi-ply weave or knit
structure with two or more plies, at least one ply of the multi-ply structure being
composed of the crimped filaments A and filaments B, while at least one other ply
being composed entirely of the crimped filaments A and B and the other ply containing
the crimped filaments A being partially bound with each other.
[0022] The crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water may have a multi-ply weave or knit
structure with two or more plies, at least one ply of the multi-ply structure being
composed entirely of the crimped filaments A, while at least one other ply being composed
entirely of the crimped filaments B, and the crimped filaments A-containing ply and
the filaments B-containing ply being partially bound with each other.
[0023] The process of the present invention for production of a crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 12 which manifests roughness
upon wetting with water, is characterized by comprising a step of producing a precursor
woven or knitted fabric from precursor filaments from which crimped filaments A which
reveals crimps when a heat treatment is applied thereto, and the resultant crimps
having a property such that the percentage of crimp decreases when wetted with water,
and precursory filaments from which at least one type of filaments B selected from
filaments which do not reveal crimps even when a heat treatment is applied thereto,
and filaments which reveal crimps when a heat treatment is applied thereto but the
percentage of crimp of the crimps essentially not decreasing when wetted with water,
and a step of applying a heat treatment to the precursory woven or knitted fabric
to produce a woven or knitted fabric comprising the crimped filaments A and the filaments
B.
[0024] In the process of the present invention for production of a crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabric, the precursory filaments from which the crimped filaments
A are preferably formed from non-crimped conjugate filaments comprising a polyester
resin component and a polyamide resin component which components differ in water-absorption
and self-elongation from each other and are bonded in a side-by-side structure.
[0025] The process of the present invention for production of a crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabric the polyester resin component in the non-crimped conjugate
filaments preferably comprises a polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of
0.30-0.43, and the polyamide resin component preferably comprise a polyamide resin
having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0-1.4.
[0026] The process of the present invention for production of a crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabric, the non-crimped conjugate filaments preferably satisfy, after
crimping treatment in boiling water was applied thereto, the following requirements:
- (1) a dry percentage of crimp DC after standing in an environment having a temperature
of 20°C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, is in the range of 1.5 to 13%;
- (2) a percentage of crimp HC immediately after an immersion in water at a temperature
of 20°C for 2 hours, is in the range of 0.5 to 7.0%; and
- (3) a difference between the dry percentage of crimp DC and wet percentage of crimp
HC (DC-HC) is 0.5% or greater.
[0027] The textile product of the present invention includes the crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
[0028] The textile product of the present invention is preferably selected from outerwear,
sportswear and underwear clothes.
[0029] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabrics that manifest roughness on the surface upon wetting with
water wherein the roughness is reduced or disappears upon drying, from crimped filaments
A whose percentage of crimp decreases upon wetting with water and filaments B which
undergo substantially no change in percentage of crimp upon wetting with water, as
well as a process for producing them and textile products obtained therefrom.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0030]
Fig. 1 is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of an embodiment
of the crimped conjugate filament used in a woven or knitted fabric of the present
invention.
Fig. 2 is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of another embodiment
of a crimped conjugate filament used in a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention.
Fig. 3 is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of still another
embodiment of a crimped conjugate filament used in a woven or knitted fabric of the
invention.
Fig. 4(A) is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of an embodiment
of a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention under dry condition, and Fig.
4(B) is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of the woven or knitted
fabric under water-wetted condition.
Fig. 5 is a plane view showing the structure of another embodiment of a woven or knitted
fabric of the present invention under dry condition.
Fig. 6(A) is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of still another
embodiment of a woven or knitted fabric of the present invention under dry condition,
and Fig. 6(B) is an explanatory view showing the cross-sectional profile of the woven
or knitted fabric under water-wetted condition.
Fig. 7 is a plane view showing the structure of still another embodiment of a woven
or knitted fabric of the present invention under dry condition.
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
[0031] A woven or knitted fabric of the invention comprises crimped filaments A whose percentage
of crimp decreases upon wetting with water, and filaments B composed of at least one
type of filaments selected from non-crimped filaments and crimped filaments which
undergo substantially no change in percentage of crimp upon wetting with water. When
a crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is
wetted with water (for example, when wetted by perspiration or falling rain), only
the crimped filaments A exhibit a reduced percentage of crimp whereby the apparent
lengths of the crimped filaments A increase to form roughness on the surface of the
water-wetted woven or knitted fabric, while drying produces an increase or restoration
of the percentage of crimp of the crimped filaments A whereby the apparent lengths
of the filaments are reduced or restored, and the roughness is reduced or disappears.
In other words, the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention is able to reversibly
undergo manifestation of roughness upon wetting with water and reduction or disappearance
of the roughness upon drying.
[0032] The change in roughness calculated in accordance with the following equation from
the thickness (TD) when dried and the thickness (TW) when wetted, of the woven or
knitted fabric of the present invention is 5% or greater and preferably 10-100%.

[0033] If the roughness change is less than 5%, manifestation of roughness in the woven
or knitted fabric when wetted will be insufficient, making it impossible to sufficiently
reduce the skin discomfort occurred when the fabric is worn.
[0034] The thickness TD when dried is the thickness after the woven or knitted fabric has
stood for 24 hours in an environment at a temperature of 20°C at a humidity of 65%
RH, and the thickness TW when wetted is the highest thickness of a portion of the
woven or knitted fabric at which portion one ml of water has been dropped by using
a dropper, one minute after the water dropping; these thicknesses TD and TW may be
measured using, for example, a ultrahigh-precision laser displacement meter (Model
LC-2400, product of Keyence).
[0035] It is important that in the crimped filament (A), the difference (DC-HC) between
the percentage of crimp (DC) when dried and the percentage of crimp (HC) when wetted
with water of the crimped filaments A is 0.5% or more, and such crimped filaments
(A) are preferably conjugate filaments which are composed of two types of resin components,
different from one another in terms of heat-shrinkage properties, for example, polyester
resin component and a polyamide resin component, incorporated in a side-by-side structure,
and have a crimped structure formed by expression of their latent crimping performance.
[0036] Examples of preferred polyester resin components for the side-by-side type conjugate
filaments include modified polyesters, for example, modified polyethylene terephthalate,
polypropylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate polymers which are copolymerized
with compounds which have a group consisting an alkali or alkaline earth metal salt
or phosphonium salt of sulfonic acid, and one or more functional groups with ester-forming
property, for higher adhesion with the polyamide component. Particularly, modified
polyethylene terephthalate copolymers containing the copolymerized aforementioned
compounds, are preferred from the standpoint of common wide utility and low polymer
price. Examples of copolymerization components in this case include 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic
acid and its ester derivatives, 5-phosphonium isophthalic acid and its ester derivatives,
sodium p-hydroxybenzenesulfonate, etc. Among them, 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid is
preferably employed. The copolymerization amount of the copolymerizing component is
preferably in the range of 2.0-4.5 molar % with respect to the molar amount of the
dicarboxylic acid component in the polyester resin component. If the copolymerization
amount is less than 2.0 molar %, a separation may occur at the bonding interface between
the polyamide component and polyester component, whereas the resultant conjugate filaments
exhibit excellent crimping property. Conversely, if the copolymerization amount is
more than 4.5 molar percent, crystallization of the polyester component will be inhibited
during drawing and heat treatment, thus a higher draw and heat treatment temperature
than usual becomes necessary, and this potentially leads to numerous breaks in the
filaments.
[0037] There is no particular limitation to the polyamide resin component for the side-by-side
type conjugate filaments, as long as it has an amide bond in the beckborn chain, and
the polyamide resin includes, for example, nylon-4, nylon-6, nylon-66, nylon-46 and
nylon-12. Among them, nylon-6 and nylon-66 are particularly preferred from the viewpoint
of common wide utility, low polymer price and high stability in filament production.
[0038] The polyester resin component and polyamide resin component may also contain publicly
known additives, for example, pigments, delustering agents, stain-proofing agents,
fluorescent brighteners, flame retardants, stabilizers, antistatic agents, light resisting
agents, ultraviolet ray absorbers, etc.
[0039] The conjugate filament comprising two resin components different in heat shrinkage
properties from each other (for example, polyester resin component and polyamide resin
component) bonded in a side-by-side structure may have any cross-sectional profile
and combining form. Figs. 1 to 3 show cross-sectional profiles of side-by-side type
conjugate filaments to be used for the present invention. The conjugate filament 1
shown in Fig. 1 has a circular cross-sectional profile wherein the polyester resin
component 2 and the polyamide resin component 3 are bonded in a side-by-side relationship.
The conjugate filament shown in Fig. 2 has an oval cross-sectional profile wherein
the polyester resin component 2 and the polyamide resin component 3 are bonded in
a side-by-side relationship. The conjugate filament 1 shown in Fig. 3 also has a circular
cross-sectional profile, but with the polyamide resin component 3 is located inside
the polyester resin component 2 in a nearly core-in-sheath configuration. A portion
of the polyamide resin component 3, however, is exposed on the outer periphery of
the filament.
[0040] The cross-sectional profile of the side-by-side type conjugate filament may be, instead
of circular or oval, polygonal such as triangular or rectangular, flat or star-shaped
or even hollow. Among them, a circular cross-sectional profile shown in Fig. 1 is
preferred.
[0041] The mass ratio of the polyester resin component to polyamide resin component in the
side-by-side type conjugate filament used for the invention is preferably in the range
of 30:70 to 70:30 and more preferably 40:60 to 60:40.
[0042] The individual filament thickness of the crimped filaments A used for the invention
is preferably 1 to 10 dtex and more preferably 2 to 5 dtex. When the crimped filaments
A are used in a yarn or a filament bundle, the number of individual filaments is preferably
10 to 200 and more preferably 20-100 per yarn or bundle.
[0043] The conjugate filaments having two resin components different in heat shrinkage properties
from each other and bonded in a side-by-side structure may have any desired cross-sectional
profile or combining form. Figs. 1 to 3 show magnified cross-sectional views of side-by-side
type conjugate filaments usable for the present invention. The conjugate filaments
having the cross-sectional profiles shown in Figs. 1 and 2 are used in most cases,
but a nearly eccentric core-in-sheath type such as shown in Fig. 3 may also be used.
Alternatively, the profile may be triangular or rectangular, or a hollow may be formed
within the cross-section. The circular cross-sectional profile shown in Fig. 1 is
preferred among these profiles, but the oval cross-sectional profile as shown in Fig.
2 is also usable. The mass ratio of both components may be selected as desired, usually
the mass ratio between the polyester resin component and polyamide resin component
is 30:70 to 70:30 and more preferably 40:60 to 60:40.
[0044] There are no particular restrictions to the individual filament thickness and number
of individual filaments (individual filament number) of the crimped filaments A. Preferably,
the individual filament thickness is 1 to 10 dtex (more preferably 2 to 5 dtex) and
the number of individual filaments is in the range of 10 to 200 (more preferably 20
to 100), per yarn.
[0045] The conjugate filaments composed of different resin components bonded to each other
as described above usually have a latent crimping property, and therefore express
latent crimping performance when subjected to heat treatment, for example, a high-temperature
dyeing treatment which will be explained hereinafter. The crimp structure preferably
has the polyamide resin component located in inner side of the crimped filament and
the polyester resin component located in outer side of the crimped filament. The conjugate
filament having the above-mentioned crimp structure can be easily produced by the
production process as described below. If the crimped filaments A have the above-mentioned
crimp structure, wetting with water causes the polyamide component located in the
inner side to swell and elongate but causes virtually no change in length of the polyester
component located in the outer side, and thus, the percentage of crimp of the conjugate
filament decreases. As a result, the apparent lengths of the crimped filaments A increases.
When dried, however, the polyamide component located in the inner side shrinks, while
the polyester component on the outer side undergoes essentially no change in length
and, thus, the percentage of crimp of the conjugate filament increases. Thus, the
apparent length of the crimped filaments A is therefore shortened.
[0046] The crimped filaments A are preferably in the form of untwisted yarn or false twisted
yarn with no more than 300 T/m twists, in order to facilitate decrease in the percentage
of crimp upon wetting with water. Untwisted filament yarn are especially preferred.
In case of a hard-twisted filament yarn having a hard twist, the percentage of crimp
is sometimes hard to decrease upon wetting with water. Also, the crimped filament
yarn may be one subjected to an air interlacing treatment and/or usual false twisting
treatment at an interlace number of the individual filaments in the yarn of about
20 to 60 interlaces/m.
[0047] There are no particular restrictions to the type of filaments B which are non-crimped
filaments or which have crimps that undergo essentially no change in percentage of
crimp upon wetting with water. Here, the phrase "undergo essentially no change in
percentage of crimp upon wetting with water" means that a difference (DC-HC) between
the percentage of crimp DC(%) in dry and the percentage of crimp HC(%) in wet with
water (DC-HC) is less than 0.5(%). The difference in percentage of crimp (DC-HC) is
more preferably 0 to 0.4% and still more preferably 0 to 0.3%.
[0048] The filaments B may be selected from synthetic polymer filaments, for example, filaments
of polyesters, for example, polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate
and polybutylene terephthalate, polyamides, for example, nylon-6 and nylon-66, polyolefins,
for example, polyethylene and polypropylene, acrylic compounds, para- or meta-aramids
and modified synthetic resins thereof, natural filaments regenerated filaments semi-synthetic
filaments, polyurethane-based elastic filaments and polyether ester-based elastic
filament, as long as they are appropriate for clothes. Among them, polyester filaments,
for example, filaments of polyethylene terephthalate, polypropylene terephthalate
and polybutylene terephthalate, as well as polyester filaments composed of modified
polyesters produced by copolymerization with copolymerizing components, as mentioned
above, because the above-mentioned filaments exhibit a high dimensional stability
even when wetted with water and satisfactory in filament-combining properties, mixed
knitting or mixed weaving properties and dyeing properties compatibility with the
crimped filaments A. There are also no special restrictions on the thickness of individual
filaments for the filaments B or on the number of individual filaments per yarn or
bundle when they are used in a yarn or a filament bundle. In order to increase the
hygroscopicity of the resultant woven or knitted fabric and to accelerate the manifestation
of roughness upon wetting with water, the thickness of the individual filament for
the filaments B is preferably 0.1 to 5 dtex and more preferably 0.5 to 2 dtex, and
the number of individual filaments for a filament B yarn or filament B bundle is preferably
in the range of 20 to 200 filaments and more preferably 30-100 filaments per yarn
or bundle. The filament B-containing yarn or filament bundle can be subjected to an
air interlacing treatment and/or conventional false twisting treatment, which may
cause interlacing of the constituent individual filaments at about 20-60 interlaces/m.
[0049] A woven or knitted fabric of the invention comprises the aforementioned crimped filaments
A whose percentage of crimp decreases upon wetting with water, and filaments B comprising
non-crimped filaments and/or crimped filaments which undergo essentially no change
in percentage of crimp upon wetting with water.
[0050] There are no particular restrictions on the weave or knit structures or number of
plies as of the woven or knitted fabric. Suitable weave or knit structures include
weave structures a plane weave, twill weave or satin weave, and a knit structures
such as a plain knit smooth knit, circular rib knit, seed knit, plating stitch, Denbigh
stitch, half knit, etc, but there is no limitation to these. The fabric may be a single-ply
fabric or a multi-ply fabric having two or more plies.
[0051] The reason of manifesting the roughness in the woven or knitted fabric when wetted
with water is that the woven or knitted fabric is composed of portions which undergoes
a dimensional change (expansion) when wetted with water and portions which undergoes
little or no dimensional change even when wetted with water whereby, when wetted with
water, the former portions changes in dimensions, and the latter portions exhibit
little or no change in dimensions. Therefore, when wetted with water, the former portions
form convexities and thereby manifest a roughness in the fabric. Consequently, for
effective manifestation of roughness upon wetting with water, it is important to appropriately
arrange the crimped filaments A and the filaments B.
[0052] A preferred mode for arrangement of the crimped filaments A and filaments B in a
woven or knitted fabric of the present invention will be explained below.
[0053] First, according to mode (1), the woven or knitted fabric comprises one or more portions
(Y portions) composed entirely of the crimped filaments A and one or more portions
(Z portions) composed entirely of the filaments B, wherein the Z portions are formed
continuous in either or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both the
wale and course directions.
[0054] In this structure, as the Y portions have, when wetted with water, a greater degree
of dimensional change than that of the Z portions, and the Z portions in the woven
or knitted fabric are formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft directions
or in either or both the wale and course directions, so that dimensional change of
the woven or knitted fabric as a whole is inhibited, and the Y portions form convexities
to manifest roughness.
[0055] In Fig. 6(A), the woven or knitted fabric 7 comprises Y portions 8 having a large
dimensional change upon wetting with water and Z portion 9 having little or no dimensional
change upon wetting with water, and in the dry state, the Y portions 8 and Z portions
9 form a flat surface but upon wetting with water, each Y portions 8 extends outward
from one side surface of the woven or knitted fabric 7 to form convexities, as shown
in Fig. 6(B), thus producing roughness on the surface of the woven or knitted fabric
7.
[0056] The pattern in which the Z portions are continuous in either or both the warp and
weft directions or in either or both the wale and course directions is not particularly
restricted, and examples include a border pattern, stripe pattern or lattice pattern,
a diamond pattern as shown schematically in Fig. 7, or a checkered pattern.
[0057] There is no particular restriction on the area ratio of the Z portions to Y portions,
but for increased dimensional stability of the woven or knitted fabric, the ratio
Z portion area:Y portion area is preferably 10:90 to 90:10 and more preferably 20:80
to 80:20.
[0058] In the woven or knitted fabric 7 as shown in Fig. 7, the Y portions 8 are separated
from each other by Z portions 9. While there is no particular restriction on the area
of each Y portion 8, it is preferably in the range of 0.01 to 4.0 cm
2 and more preferably 0.1 to 1.0 cm
2. This is preferred from the viewpoint of preventing sticking between clothing and
skin during periods of perspiration. The width of the Z portions 9 is preferably in
the range of 0.5-100 mm.
[0059] According to mode (2) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the
fabric comprises one or more portions (Z portions) composed entirely of the filaments
B and one or more portions (X portions) composed of the filaments A and the filaments
B, wherein the Z portions are formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft
directions or in either or both the wale and course directions.
[0060] In this structure, as the X portions have a greater degree of dimensional change
when wetted with water than that of the Z portions, and the Z portions of the woven
or knitted fabric are formed continuously in either or both the warp and weft directions
or in either or both the wale and course directions, the dimensional change of the
woven or knitted fabric as a whole is inhibited, and the X portions form convexities
to manifest roughness. The pattern in which the Z portions are formed continuously
and the area ratio of both portions may be similar to that of mode (1).
[0061] According to mode (3) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the
fabric comprises one or more portions (X portions) composed of the filaments A and
the filaments B and one or more portions (Y portions) composed entirely of the crimped
filaments A, wherein the X portions of the woven or knitted fabric are formed continuous
in either or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both the wale and course
directions.
[0062] In this structure, as the Y portions have a greater degree of dimensional change
when wetted with water than that of the X portions, and the X portions of the woven
or knitted fabric is formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft directions
or in either or both the wale and course directions, the dimensional change of the
woven or knitted fabric as a whole is inhibited, and the Y portions form convexities
to manifest roughness. The pattern in which the X portions are formed continuous and
the area ratio of both portions may be similar to mode (1).
[0063] According to mode (4) of the woven or knitted fabric of the invention, the fabric
comprises one or more portions (X portions) composed of the filaments A and the filaments
B, one or more portions (Y portions) composed entirely of the crimped filaments A
and one or more portions (Z portions) composed entirely of the filaments B, wherein
the Z portions of the woven or knitted fabric are formed continuous in either or both
the warp and weft directions or in either or both the wale and course directions.
[0064] In the above-mentioned mode (4) of the structure, as the Z portions have, when wetted
with water, the least degree of dimensional change compared to the other portions
(X portions and Y portions), and the Z portions of the woven or knitted fabric are
formed continuous in either or both the warp and weft directions, the dimensional
change of the woven or knitted fabric as a whole is inhibited, and the other portions
(X portion and Y portion) form convexities to manifest roughness. The pattern in which
the Z portions are continuous and the area ratio of Z portions to the total of the
other portions may be similar to mode (1).
[0065] According to mode (5) of the woven or knitted fabric of the invention, the fabric
has a multi-ply woven or knitted structure having two or more plies wherein at one
or more plies (X plies) of the multi-ply structure is composed of the crimped filaments
A and the filaments B while one or more of the other plies (Z plies) is composed entirely
of the filaments B, and the former plies and latter plies are partially bound together.
[0066] In this structure, the X plies have a greater degree of dimensional change when wetted
with water than that of the Z plies, and the portions of the X plies which are not
bound with the Z plies form convexities to manifest roughness.
[0067] In Fig. 4(A), the woven or knitted fabric 4 is a multi-ply fabric comprising an X
ply 6 and a Z ply 5, and a bonding ply 5a through which the plies 5 and 6 are partially
bound together. When the multi-ply woven or knitted fabric is wetted with water, as
shown in Fig. 4(B), the X ply 6 extends between the bound sections to form convexities
6a, but the portions 6b where the X ply 6 is bound through the binding ply 5a cannot
extend. As a result, roughness is formed on one side of the woven or knitted fabric.
[0068] When, as shown in Fig. 5, the lattice section 6b in the X ply 6 of the woven or knitted
fabric is bound with the Z ply (not shown in Fig. 5) through the binding ply (also
not shown), the section 6a which is not bound extends outward upon wetting with water,
to cause a plurality of rectangular convexities to be separately distributed from
each other, thereby creating roughness on one side of the multi-ply woven or knitted
fabric. Alternatively, the sections which are not bound may be formed in a lattice
form and the bound sections may form a plurality of regions spaced from each other.
[0069] According to mode (6) of the woven or knitted fabric of the present invention, the
fabric has a multi-ply woven or knitted structure with two or more plies wherein one
or more plies (X plies) of the multi-ply structure are composed of the crimped filaments
A and the filaments B while one or more other plies (Y plies) are composed entirely
of the crimped filaments A, and the X plies and Y plies are partially bound together.
[0070] In this structure, the Y plies have a greater degree of dimensional change when wetted
with water, than that of the X ply, and the portions of the Y plies which are not
bound with the X plies form convexities to manifest roughness.
[0071] According to mode (7) of the woven or knitted fabric of the invention, the fabric
has a multi-ply woven or knitted structure with two or more plies wherein one or more
plies (Y plies) are composed entirely of the crimped filaments A while one or more
other plies (Z plies) are composed entirely of the filaments B, and the Y plies and
Z plies are partially bound together.
[0072] In this structure, the Y plies have a greater degree of dimensional change when wetted
with water than that the Z plies, and the portions of the Y plies which are not bound
with the Z plies form convexities to manifest roughness.
[0073] The woven or knitted fabric of the invention may be easily produced by the production
process described below.
[0074] The process of the present invention for producing a crimped filament-containing
woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, is characterized
by comprising a step of producing a precursor woven or knitted fabric from precursor
filaments from which crimped filaments A which reveals crimps when a heat treatment
is applied thereto, and the resultant crimps having a property such that the percentage
of crimp decreases when wetted with water, and precursory filaments from which at
least one type of filaments B selected from filaments which do not reveal crimps even
when a heat treatment is applied thereto, and filaments which reveal crimps when a
heat treatment is applied thereto but the percentage of crimp of the crimps essentially
not decreasing when wetted with water, and a step of applying a heat treatment to
the precursory woven or knitted fabric to produce a woven or knitted fabric comprising
the crimped filaments A and the filaments B.
[0075] In the process of the present invention, preferably the filaments, from which the
crimped filaments A are formed, are selected from non-crimped conjugate filaments
comprising a polyester resin component and a polyamide resin component, which are
different in water-absorption and self-elongation from each other and are bonded in
a side-by-side structure, and preferably the polyester resin component of the non-crimped
filaments includes a polyester resin with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43,
and the polyamide resin component includes a polyamide resin with an intrinsic viscosity
of 1.0-1.4.
[0076] In an embodiment of the process of the present invention, a polyester having an intrinsic
viscosity of 0.30 to 0.43 (measured at 35°C in ortho-chlorophenol as the solvent)
and a polyamide having an intrinsic viscosity of 1.0-1.4 (measured at 30°C in m-cresol
as the solvent) are melt-spun into a side-by-side type composite filament structure.
In this case, a polyester component having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.43 or less
is particularly preferred. If the polyester component has an intrinsic viscosity of
greater than 0.43, the polyester exhibits an increased viscosity and thus the properties
of the composite filament will approach those of the polyester alone and it may not
be possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric which achieves the object of the invention.
Conversely, if the polyester component has an intrinsic viscosity of less than 0.30,
the resultant polyester component melt may exhibit too low a viscosity, and the filament-forming
property of the melt decreases and generation of fluffs is promoted, and the quality
and productivity of the conjugate filaments are reduced.
[0077] The spinneret used for the melt spinning may be one as shown in Fig. 1 of
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2000-144518, wherein the extrusion openings for the high viscosity component and low viscosity
component are separated from each other, and the linear extrusion rate of the high
viscosity component is low (the cross-sectional area of the extrusions openings is
designed small). Preferably, the molten polyester resin component is passed through
the extrusion openings for the high viscosity component, while the molten polyamide
resin component is passed through the extrusion openings for the low viscosity component,
and the two components are joined together while cooling them to solidification. For
this step, as mentioned above, the mass ratio of the polyester component to the polyamide
component is preferably 30:70 to 70:30, and more preferably 40:60 to 60:40.
[0078] After the melt composite melt spinning, there may be employed a separate drawing
system wherein drawing is carried out after winding up the melt-spun filaments, or
a direct drawing system wherein a draw-heat treatment is carried out without winding
up the melt-spun filaments. The spinning and drawing steps may be performed under
conventional conditions. For example, in a direct drawing system, the spinning step
is carried out at a spinning speed of about 1000 to 3500 m/min, and followed by immediate
drawing step at a temperature of 100 to 150°C and then winding up step. The draw ratio
is appropriately set so that the finally obtained conjugate filaments have a elongation
at break of preferably 10 to 60% (more preferably 20 to 45%), and a tensile strength
of preferably about 3.0 to 4.7 cN/dtex.
[0079] For the process of the present invention, the non-crimped conjugate filaments preferably
have, after crimping treatment in boiling water,
- (1) a dry percentage of crimp DC in the range of 1.5-13% after standing for 24 hours
in an environment at a temperature of 20°C, at a humidity of 65% RH,
- (2) a water-wet percentage of crimp HC in the range of 0.5-7.0% immediately after
immersion in water at a temperature of 20°C for 2 hours, and
- (3) a difference between the dry percentage of crimp DC and wet percentage of crimp
HC (DC-HC) of 0.5% or more. The dry percentage of crimp DC is more preferably 2 to
6%, the wet percentage of crimp HC is more preferably 1 to 3%, and the difference
between the dry percentage of crimp DC and wet percentage of crimp HC (DC-HC) is more
preferably 1 to 5%.
[0080] The dry percentage of crimp DC and wet percentage of crimp HC are measured by the
following measurement methods.
[0081] A wind-up frame with a circumference of 1.125 m is used for rewinding a filament
yarn under a load of 49/50 mN x 9x total tex (0.1 gf x total denier) at a fixed speed
for 10 winds to produce a small hank, the small hank is twisted to form into a double
ring and immersed in boiling water while applying an initial load of 49/2500 mN x
20 x 9 x total dtex (2 mg x 20 x total denier) for 30 minutes, then dried in a drier
at 100°C for 30 minutes and then placed in dryer at 160°C for 5 minutes while maintaining
the initial load to heat-treat the hank. The initial load is removed from the hank
after the dry heat treatment was completed, and then the hank is left to stand in
an environment at a temperature of 20°C at a humidity of 65% RH for at least 24 hours,
then the initial load and an additional load of 98/50 mN x 20 x 9 x total tex (0.2
gf x 20 x total denier) are applied to the hank, then the length L0 of the hank is
measured, the additional load alone is immediately removed, and one minute after removing
the load the length L1 of the hank is measured. The hank is then immersed in water
at a temperature of 20°C for 2 hours while applying the initial load thereto, and
after taking up from water, the hank is sandwiched between a pair of filter sheets
(30 cm x 30 cm size), a pressure of 0.69 mN/cm
2 (70 mgf/cm
2) was applied to the filter sheets for 5 seconds to lightly wipe off of water, then
the initial load and the additional load are applied to the hank, the length L0' of
the hank is measured, the additional load alone is immediately removed from the hank,
and one minute after removing the load the length Ll' of the hank is measured. These
measured values are inserted into the following equations calculate the dry percentage
of crimp DC(%), wet percentage of crimp HC(%) and the difference (DC-HC) percentage
of crimps between dry and wet. The average value for 5 measurements was calculated.

[0082] In the crimped conjugate filaments A used for the present invention, if the dry percentage
of crimp DC is smaller than 1.5%, the change in percentage of crimp upon wetting with
water is small, and thus a roughness may not be manifested. Conversely, if the dry
percentage of crimp DC is more than 13%, crimping may be too strong, thereby inhibiting
change of the crimps upon wetting with water, and also potentially preventing manifestation
of roughness. If the difference (DC-HC) between the dry percentage of crimp DC and
wet percentage of crimp HC is less than 0.5%, roughness may not be manifested even
when wetted with water.
[0083] After producing a woven or knitted fabric simultaneously from the conjugate filaments
as mentioned above and the filaments B which are either non-crimped or have crimps
which undergo substantially no change in percentage of crimp even upon wetting with
water, the fabric may be subjected to a dyeing treatment, whereby the heat of dyeing
expresses latent crimping of the conjugate filaments (to produce the crimped filaments).
[0084] There are no special restrictions on the weaving or knittin structure of the woven
or knitted fabric, and any of the aforementioned types may be selected as appropriate.
[0085] The temperature for the dyeing treatment is preferably 100 to 140°C and more preferably
110 to 135°C, and the dyeing time is preferably in the range of 5 to 40 minutes as
the highest temperature duration time. Dyeing of the woven or knitted fabric under
these conditions will allow the conjugate filaments to express crimping due to the
difference in heat shrinkage between the polyester component and the polyamide component.
The polyester component and polyamide component may be selected from the aforementioned
polymers to form the crimped structure in which the polyamide component is located
in the inner sides of the crimps.
[0086] The woven or knitted fabric which has been dyed is usually subjected to final dry
heat setting. The temperature of the final dry setting is preferably 120 to 200°C
and more preferably 140 to 180°C, and the final setting time is preferably in the
range of 1 to 3 minutes. If the temperature for the final dry heat setting is below
120°C, wrinkles created in the fabric during the dyeing will tend to remain, and the
dimensional stability of the finished product may be impaired. Conversely, if the
temperature for the final dry heat setting is higher than 200°C, crimping of the conjugate
filaments created during dyeing will be decreased and the filaments may stiffen and
produce too stiff a hand of the fabric.
[0087] In the woven or knitted fabric produced by the process of the present invention,
wetting of the woven or knitted fabric by perspiration or rain causes a decrease in
degree of crimping of the crimped filaments A themselves, and an increase in their
apparent lengths. On the other hand, the filaments B do not elongate even when wetted
with water, and therefore the dimensions of the woven or knitted fabric as a whole
are fixed. The result is that wetting with water causes the portions of the fabric
containing the crimped filaments A to form convexities, thereby manifesting roughness.
This manifestation of roughness can also reduce sticking of the fabric to the skin
when wetted with water. As a goal for reducing stickiness, the sticking force is preferably
no greater than 980 mN (100 grf). To determine the sticking force, a piece of a fabric
having a length of 15 cm and a width of 6 cm is placed on a metal roller having a
diameter of 8 cm, and one end of the piece is attached to a stress-strain gauge while
a clip having a weight of 98 mN (10 grf) is attached at the other end of the fabric
piece, as shown in Fig. 1 of
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication HEI No. 9-195172. Next, the metal roller is rotated at a peripheral speed of 7 cm/sec while injecting
0.5 cm
3 of water by using a syringe into between the metal roller and the fabric piece, and
the tension applied to the fabric piece is measured by using the stress-strain gauge,
while recording the measured maximum tention value as the sticking force.
[0088] Conventional methods may be employed to subject the woven or knitted fabric of the
invention to water absorption treatment, water repellent treatment, rising treatment,
and another various treatments for ultraviolet ray blocking, and imparting the functions
of antibacterial agents, deodorants, insecticides, luminous agents, retroreflective
agents, minus ion-generating agents, etc, to the fabric.
[0089] A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric according to the present invention
may be used for production of various types of textile products.
[0090] Textile products according to the present invention include outerwear sportswear,
and underwear materials.
EXAMPLES
[0091] The present invention will be explained in detail through the following examples
which are in no way limitative on the scope of the invention.
[0092] The following measurements were conducted for the examples and comparative examples.
1. Intrinsic viscosity of polyester
[0093] This was measured in ortho-chlorophenol as the solvent at 35°C.
2. Intrinsic viscosity of polyamide
[0094] This was measured in m-cresol as the solvent, at 30°C.
3. Tensile strength and elongation at break
[0095] A sample of filaments was allowed to stand in a constant temperature constant humidity
room kept at a temperature of atmosphere 25°C, at a humidity of 60% RH, for 24 hours
and then the sample having a length of 100 mm was set in a tester (trademark: Tensilon,
made by Shimadzu Laboratories Co., Ltd.), and elongated at a rate of 200 mm/min, upon
which the strength at breakage (cN/dtex) and the elongation (%) at break were measured.
The average value of the data (n=5) was calculated.
4. Shrinkage in boiling water
[0096] The shrinkage (%) in boiling water was measured by the method specified according
to JIS L 1013-1998, 7.15. The average value of the data (n=3) was calculated.
5. Percentage of crimp of conjugate filaments
[0097] A wind-up frame having a circumference of 1.125 m was used for rewinding filaments
under a load of 49/50 mN x 9 x total tex (0.1 gf x total denier) at a fixed speed
for 10 winds to produce a small hank, and the small hank was twisted into a double
ring and immersed in boiling water while applying an initial load of 49/2500 mN x
20 x 9 x total tex (2 mg x 20 x total denier) to the hank for 30 minutes, the hank
was dried in a drier at 100°C for 30 minutes and then placed in dry heater at 160°C
for 5 minutes while maintaining the initial load on the hank. The initial load was
removed after the dry heat treatment was completed, and the hank was left to stand
in an environment at a temperature of 20°C at a humidity of 65% RH, for 24 hours or
more the initial load and an additional load of 98/50 mN x 20 x 9 x total tex (0.2
gf x 20 x total denier) were applied to the hank, the length L0 of the hank was measured,
the additional load alone was immediately removed, and one minute after removing the
load the length L1 of the hank was measured. The hank was then immersed in water at
a temperature of 20°C for 2 hours while maintaining the initial load, removed from
water and lightly wiped off water with a filter paper, then the initial load and the
additional load were applied to the hank, the length LO' of the hank was measured,
the additional load alone was immediately removed and, one minute after removing the
load, the length L1' of the hank was measured. These measured data were inserted into
the following equations to calculate the dry percentage of crimp (DC), wet percentage
of crimp (HC) and the difference (DC-HC) between the dry and wet percentages of crimp.
The average value of the data (n=5) was calculated.

6. Sticking force
[0098] A test piece of a woven or knitted fabric having with a length of 15 cm and a width
of 6 cm was placed on a surface-polished metal roller having a diameter of 8 cm, and
one end of the test piece was attached to a stress-strain gauge while a clip having
a weight of 98 mN (10 grf) was attached at the other end of the test piece, as shown
in Fig. 1 of
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 9-195172. Next, the metal roller was rotated at a peripheral speed of 7 cm/sec while gently
injecting 0.5 ml of water with a syringe into between the metal roller and the test
piece, and the tension created on the test piece was measured with the stress-strain
gauge, and the measured maximum value of the tention was recoaded as the sticking
force. The average value of 5 measurement data (n) was determined. A high average
value represents an increased sticking force.
7. Roughness change
[0099] A woven or knitted fabric was left to stand in an environment at a temperature of
20°C, at a humidity of 65% RH (n=5) for 24 hours, and then cut into 5 pieces (n=5)
each having 30 cm x 30 cm dimensions. The dry thickness (TD) of the test pieces of
the woven or knitted fabric was measured in an environment of a temperature of 20°C,
and a humidity of 65% RH by using an ultrahigh-precision laser displacement gauge
(Model LC-2400, product of Keyence). Next, one ml of water was dropped onto the test
pieces with a dropper and one minute after dropping water the water-wetted maximum
thickness (TW) at the water-dropped portion of the test pieces was measured using
a ultrahigh-precision laser displacement gauge (Model LC-2400, product of Keyence).
The roughness change was calculated in accordance with the following equation. The
average of five measurement data (n=5) was determined.

Example 1
[0100] Nylon-6 with an intrinsic viscosity [η] of 1.3 and modified polyethylene terephthalate
copolymerized with 2.6 molar percent of 5-sodiumsulfoisophthalic acid, having an intrinsic
viscosity [η] of 0.39, were melted at 270°C and 290°C, respectively. The same type
of side-by-side conjugate filament spinneret as that shown in Fig. 1 of
Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2000-144518 was used for extrusion of the resins each at an extrusion rate of 12.7 g/min, to
form a side-by-side conjugate filaments having a cross-sectional profile of the individual
filaments as shown in Fig. 1, and the extruded conjugate filaments were cooled to
solidify and an oiling agent was applied to the filaments. The filaments were preheated
with a preheating roller at a speed of 1,000 m/min at a temperature of 60°C, and then
draw-heat treated between the preheating roller and a heating roller heated to a temperature
of 150°C, at a speed of 3050 m/min, then finally wound up to obtain an 84 dtex/24
filaments conjugate filament bundle. The tensile strength of the obtained conjugate
filaments was 3.4 cN/dtex, and the elongation at break of the filaments was 40%. The
conjugate filaments bundle was treated in boiling water to express the crimping, then
the percentage of crimp was measured. The dry percentage of crimp DC was 3.3%, the
wet percentage of crimp HC was 1.6% and the difference (DC-HC) between the dry percentage
of crimp DC and wet percentage of crimp HC was 1.7%.
[0101] The non-crimped composite filament bundle (without boiling water treatment and without
crimping or twisting) and a conventional 84 dtex/72 filaments polyethylene terephthalate
multifilament yarn (filament B) having a shrinkage in boiling water of 8% were fed
to a 28 gauge double circular knitting machine, for knitting of a circular knitted
fabric with the knitting structure shown in Table 1.

[0102] The circular knitted fabric was dyed under conditions of a temperature of 130°C and
a top temperature keeping time of 15 minutes, for expression of the latent crimping
property of the non-crimped conjugate filament yarn, to produce the crimped filaments
A. In the dyeing step, a hygroscopic agent (polyethylene terephthalate-polyethylene
glycol copolymer) was contained in an amount of 2 ml/liter with respect to the dyeing
solution for treatment in the same bath as the dyeing bath, to apply a hygroscopic
treatment to the knitted fabric. The circular knit fabric was subjected to final dry
heat setting at a temperature of 160°C for 1 minute.
[0103] The cross-section of the circular knit fabric in the thickness direction is shown
in Fig. 4. In Fig. 4, a ply (Z ply) was composed entirely of the filaments B, while
the other ply (Y ply) was composed entirely of the crimped filaments A, and the Z
ply and Y ply were partially tacked by the polyester filament B yarn.
[0104] In the view of the Y ply side surface of the knitted fabric as shown in Fig. 5, the
Y ply was tacked in a lattice formed portion to the Z ply and when wetted with water,
the non-tacked rectangular portions b of the Y ply form convexities to thereby manifest
roughness.
[0105] In this knitted fabric, the roughness change between wet and dry states was 15% and
the sticking force was 784 mN (80 gf), and the low degree of stickiness when wetted
with water was satisfactory from a practical standpoint.
Example 2
[0106] Using a 28 gauge tricot knitting machine, the same conjugated filament (filament
A) as used in Example 1 was full-set on a back reeds, while the same polyethylene
terephthalate multifilament yarn (filament B) as used in Example 1 was set on the
middle reeds at 2 in-10 out, and the same polyethylene terephthalate multifilament
yarn (filament B) as used in Example 1 was also set on the front reeds at 10 out-2
in, for knitting a tricot knit with a structure of back: 10-12, middle: 10-12-23-34-45-43-32-21,
front: 45-43-32-21-10-12-23-34, with knitting conditions on the machine of 60 courses/2.54
cm. The knitted fabric was then subjected to dye finishing in the same manner as in
Example 1.
[0107] For this knitted fabric, the dry cross-section in the thickness direction comprised
sections composed entirely of the crimped filaments A (Y sections) and sections composed
of the crimped filaments A and filaments B (X sections), as shown in Fig. 6(A).
[0108] As can be seen in Fig. 7, the fabric surface had X sections 9 in a continuous lattice
diamond pattern extending over the fabric and, when wetted with water, the rectangular
sections (Y sections) 8 surrounded by the lattice pattern formed convexities thus
manifesting roughness.
[0109] In this knit fabric, the roughness change between wet and dry states was 25% and
the sticking force was 686 mN (70 gf), and therefore the low degree of stickiness
when wetted with water was satisfactory from a practical standpoint.
Comparative Example 1
[0110] A dyed (and water absorbing agent treated) circular knit fabric was produced in the
same manner as Example 1, except that, the same conjugate filaments as used in Example
1 were employed instead of the polyethylene terephthalate multifilament yarn (filaments
B).
[0111] In this knit fabric, the roughness change between wet and dry states was 2% and the
sticking force was 1470 mN (150 gf), and therefore the high degree of stickiness when
wetted with water was unsatisfactory from a practical standpoint.
INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY
[0112] According to the present invention, it is possible to produce woven and knitted fabrics
which reversibly manifest roughness on their surfaces when wetted with water, while
having reduced roughness when dry, as well as textile products such as outerwear,
sportswear underwear produced from the woven or knitted fabrics. Wearing such textile
products can reduce sticking between skin and clothing during periods of perspiration.
1. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water, and comprises yarns comprising crimped filaments A the percentage
of crimp of which decreases upon wetting with water, and yarns comprising filaments
B comprising at least one type of filaments selected from non-crimped filaments and
crimped filaments which undergo substantially no change in percentage of crimp upon
wetting with water,
characterized in that the change in roughness calculated by the equation:

wherein TD represents a thickness of the woven or knitted fabric measured after standing
it in an environment having a temperature of 20°C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24
hours and TW represents a largest thickness of the water-wetted portion of the woven
or knitted fabric measured one minute after 1 ml of water has been dropped onto the
woven or knitted fabric, is 5% or greater.
2. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, wherein the crimped filaments A are selected
from crimped conjugate filaments comprising a polyester resin component and a polyamide
resin component which components are different from one another in terms of water-absorption
and self-elongation properties, and bonded to one another in a side-by-side structure,
the conjugate filaments having crimps formed by revealing the latent crimpability
of the conjugate filaments.
3. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 2, wherein the polyester resin component comprises
a modified polyethylene terephthalate resin comprising 5-sodiumsolfoisophthalic acid
copolymerized in an amount of 2.0-4.5 molar percent based on the content of the acid
component of the resin.
4. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, wherein the yarn comprising the crimped filaments
A is twisted at the number of twist of 0-300 T/m.
5. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, wherein the filaments B comprise a polyester
resin.
6. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, comprising at least one portion Y composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A at least one portion Z composed entirely of the
filaments B, wherein the Z portion being formed continuously in either or both the
warp and weft directions or in either or both the course and wale directions of the
woven or knitted fabric.
7. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, comprising at least one portion Z composed
entirely of the filaments B and at least one portion X composed of the filaments A
and the filaments B, the Z portion being formed continuously in either or both the
warp and weft directions or in either or both the course and wale directions of the
woven or knitted fabric.
8. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, comprising at least one portion X composed
of the crimped filaments A and the filaments B and at least one portion Y composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A, wherein the X portion is formed continuously
in either or both the warp and weft directions or in either or both the course and
wale directions of the woven or knitted fabric.
9. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, comprising at least one portion X composed
of the crimped filaments A and the filaments B, at least one portion Y composed entirely
of the crimped filaments A and at least one portion Z composed entirely of the filament
B, wherein the Z portion is formed continuously in either or both the warp and weft
directions or in either or both the course and wale directions of the woven or knitted
fabric.
10. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, having a multi-ply weave or knit structure
with two or more plies, wherein at least one ply of the multi-ply structure is composed
of the crimped filaments A and the filaments B, while at least one other ply is composed
entirely of the filaments B, and the ply containing the filaments A and B and the
other ply containing the filaments B are partially bound with each other.
11. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, having a multi-ply weave or knit structure
with two or more plies, wherein at least one ply of the multi-ply structure is composed
of the crimped filaments A and filaments B, while at least one other ply is composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A and B and the other ply containing the crimped
filaments A are partially bound with each other.
12. A crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric which manifests roughness upon
wetting with water according to claim 1, having a multi-ply weave or knit structure
with two or more plies, wherein at least one ply of the multi-ply structure is composed
entirely of the crimped filaments A, while at least one other ply is composed entirely
of the crimped filaments B, and the crimped filaments A-containing ply and the filaments
B-containing ply are partially bound with each other.
13. A process for production of a crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
which manifests roughness upon wetting with water, according to any one of claims
1 to 12, characterized by comprising a step of producing a precursor woven or knitted fabric from precursor
filaments from which crimped filaments A which reveals crimps when a heat treatment
is applied thereto, and the resultant crimps having a property such that the percentage
of crimp decreases when wetted with water, and precursory filaments from which at
least one type of filaments B selected from filaments which do not reveal crimps even
when a heat treatment is applied thereto, and filaments which reveal crimps when a
heat treatment is applied thereto but the percentage of crimp of the crimps essentially
not decreasing when wetted with water, and a step of applying a heat treatment to
the precursory woven or knitted fabric to produce a woven or knitted fabric comprising
the crimped filaments A and the filaments B.
14. A process for the production of a crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
according to claim 13, wherein the precursory filaments from which the crimped filaments
A are formed from non-crimped conjugate filaments comprising a polyester resin component
and a polyamide resin component which components differ in water-absorption and self-elongation
from each other and are bonded in a side-by-side structure.
15. A process for production of a crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
according to claim 14, wherein the polyester resin component in the non-crimped conjugate
filaments comprises a polyester resin having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.30-0.43,
and the polyamide resin component comprise a polyamide resin having an intrinsic viscosity
of 1.0-1.4.
16. A process for production of a crimped filament-containing woven or knitted fabric
according to claim 13, wherein the non-crimped conjugate filaments satisfy, after
a crimping treatment in boiling water was applied thereto, the requirements:
(1) a dry percentage of crimp DC after standing in an environment having a temperature
of 20°C and a humidity of 65% RH for 24 hours, is in the range of 1.5 to 13%;
(2) a percentage of crimp HC immediately after an immersion in water at a temperature
of 20°C for 2 hours, is in the range of 0.5 to 7.0%; and
(3) a difference between the dry percentage of crimp DC and wet percentage of crimp
HC (DC-HC) is 0.5% or greater.
17. A textile product which includes the crimped filament-containing-woven or knitted
fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 12.
18. A textile product according to claims 17, selected from outerwear, sportswear and
underwear clothes.