[0001] Proceeding for manufacturing a transpirable, permeable, elastic fabric or a non woven
fabric of the type in which said fabric or non-woven fabric comprises first threads
or fibres arranged in the direction of the weft and in that of the warp, including,
either in the direction of the weft or in that of the warp or both, second threads
or fibres, the melting point of which is below than the melting point of the first
threads or fibres and which is characterised in that it consists of a first stabilisation
phase of the fabric or non-woven fabric in which, at least one part of said fabric
or non-woven fabric is subjected to a temperature equivalent to the minimum shape
memory temperature of the first threads or fibres, with said temperature being below
the melting point of the second threads, and a second phase of heat pre-shaping of
the referred fabric or non-woven fabric resulting from the first phase in which temperature
and pressure is applied over at least part of said fabric or non-woven fabric, with
said temperature being equal to or higher than the melting point of the second threads
or fibres, thus varying the elasticity of the area of fabric or non-woven fabric to
which the mentioned heat is applied, blocking the elasticity of the resulting fabric
or non-woven fabric in function of the higher or lower density of the first threads
or fibres and of the higher or lower quantity of second threads or fibres that are
melted.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
[0002] The closest document is the German patent n_
DE4206997, of 1992, in the name of Mr Peter Lotear Ernst Möring and Mr Willy A. de
Meyer, which refers to a flat textile material, particularly fabrics, knitwear, weft knitwear
or textile structures obtained by superposition, part in polyethylene fibres or other
similar fibres, which comprise a minimum of two components and which have been subjected
to heat and pressure treatment, characterised in that at least one of the fibre components
has a higher melting point than the other components or does not melt at all and in
that it has been subjected to a heat and pressure treatment at a temperature at which
the component with the highest melting point has been taken to a maximum of the beginning
of joining by melting.
[0003] A procedure is also claimed that consists of a proceeding for manufacturing of a
flat textile material of at least two components used to particularly produce a fabric,
knitwear, weft knitwear or textile structures obtained by superposition of synthetic
fibres and the material produced is subjected to heat and pressure treatment, in which
the threads melt, characterised in that the flat material is produced using threads,
with at least one polyethylene or poly propylene component with a melting point that
is lower than the other components and that the material is subjected to heat and
pressure values that take the highest melting point component to the beginning of
melting or which does not melt at all, or a maximum of commencing joining by melting
and a minimum the other component is also taken to melting.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0004] As can be shown, is known the application of synthetic threads at various temperatures
in order to melt some and not others.
[0005] The problem lies in the fact that it is not possible to shape them, in other words,
until now it was not known how to stabilise them.
[0006] Moreover, the previous inventions do not clearly state how transpiration is achieved
when they are occasionally impermeable.
[0007] Lastly, it is not possible to apply the melting threads in a specific determined
fashion, consequently, it is not possible to apply melting to already manufactured
garments, in other words, using the Santoni procedure or melting partial applications,
for example, blocking the threads in a specific area of the fabric or non-woven fabric
garment.
[0008] The present invention is a considerable advance in the textile sector. It is necessary
to point out that the textile sector evolves only slowly, techniques are being employed
that have been known for decades, so that any changes "per se" represent a revolution
in a quite immobile industrial area.
[0009] The advantage of this invention is that in a first phase, the threads or fibres are
stabilised, giving them a shape memory and, in a second phase, determined threads
or fibres are melted so that they are fixed to the fabric or non-woven fabric or garment.
This means that it pre-shapes first then fixes. This allows its application to underwear,
in joint areas, etc.
[0010] Initially at least two different type of threads or fibres are used (more than two
can also be used) that have different melting points, but with the characteristic
of the melting point of one is equal to or higher than the shape memory temperature
of the other, in other words, it shapes and blocks at the same time.
[0011] In order to obtain maximum colour similarity in dyeing the fabric or non-woven fabric,
it is recommended that fibres or filaments with the same base composition are used
in the two types of threads. Polyamides with polyamides and polyester with polyester
etc.
[0012] One objective of the present invention is a procedure for the production of a permeable,
elastic, transpirable fabric or non-woven fabric of the type in which said fabric
or non-woven fabric comprises first threads or fibres arranged in the direction of
the weft and in that of the warp of the type, including, either in the direction of
the weft or in that of the warp or both, second threads or fibres, the melting point
of which is below that of the first threads or fibres and which is characterised in
that it consists of a first stabilisation phase of the fabric or non-woven fabric
in which, at least one part of said fabric or non-woven fabric is subjected to a temperature
equivalent to the minimum shape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres,
with said temperature being below the melting point of the second threads, and a second
phase of heat pre-shaping of the referred fabric or non-woven fabric resulting from
the first phase in which temperature and pressure is applied over at least part of
said fabric or non-woven fabric, with said temperature being equal to or higher than
the melting point of the second threads or fibres, thus varying the elasticity of
the area of fabric or non-woven fabric to which the mentioned heat is applied, blocking
the elasticity of the resulting fabric or non-woven fabric in function of the higher
or lower density of the first threads or fibres and of the higher or lower quantity
of second threads or fibres that are melted.
[0013] Another objective of the present invention is a fabric in accordance with the previously
described proceeding, in which said fabric or non-woven fabric comprises first threads
or fibres arranged in the direction of the weft and in the direction of the warp,
consisting of, either in the direction of the weft or in that of the warp or both,
second threads or fibres, the melting point of which is below that the melting point
of the first threads or fibres, characterised in that the melting point of the second
threads or fibres is equal to or higher than the minimum shape memory temperature
of the first threads or fibres.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0014] In order to facilitate the description, the present report is accompanied by three
sheets of drawings that show a practical case exemplary embodiment, which is cited
as a non-limiting example of the scope of the present invention:
- Figure 1 is a view of a fabric, the object of this invention, with the arrangement
of two types of threads or fibres.
- Figure 2 is an embodiment of the previous fabric for a woman's corset
- Figure 3 is an embodiment that shows the various arrangements of the threads and fibres.
- Figure 4 is the applications of melting to a garment based on the arrangement of Figure
3.
SPECIFIC EMBODIMENT OF THE PATENT APPLICATION
[0015] Thus, Figure 1 illustrates a fabric 3, first threads or fibres 1 and second threads
or fibres 2.
[0016] Figure 2 shows a corset 6, a first area 4 with only the first threads or fibres and
a second area 5 with the second threads or fibres once the second phase of the present
invention is completed.
[0017] Figure 3 shows a fabric 3, with second threads or fibres 1 and second threads or
fibres 2.
[0018] Lastly, Figure 4 represents the application of the proceeding of the present invention
to Figure 3 in which can be seen the first threads or fibres 1, together with the
second threads or fibres 2 and a second areas 5 with the second threads or fibres
once the second phase of the present invention is completed.
[0019] Thus, in an specific embodiment, the proceeding for manufacturing a transpirable,
permeable, elastic fabric or a non woven fabric, the object of the present invention,
comprises said fabric 3, the first threads or fibres 1 arranged in the weft and in
the warp, together with second threads or fibres 2 in the warp (Fig 1).
[0020] The melting point of the second threads or fibres 2 is lower than the melting point
of the first threads or fibres 1.
[0021] Thus, in a first phase, called fabric stabilisation, part of said fabric 5 is subjected
to a temperature equivalent to the minimum shape memory of the second threads or fibres
2.
[0022] Said temperature is lower than the melting point of the second threads 2.
[0023] In the second phase, called pre-shaping by heat of the referred fabric resulting
from the first phase, temperature and pressure are applied over at least in a part
of said fabric 4, 5, with said temperature being equal to or higher than the melting
point of the second threads or fibres 2, varying the elasticity of the area of fabric
or non-woven fabric over which the mentioned heat was applied.
[0024] In this way, the elasticity of the resulting fabric or non-woven fabric is blocked
in function of the higher or lower density of the first threads or fibres 1 and of
the higher or lower quantity of second threads of fibres 2 that are melted.
[0025] In other words, if there is a large number of second threads or fibres, when the
second threads or fibres 2 melt, a level of mesh is achieved that provides rigidity
but flexibility to area 5 (Figure 4) because they are joined to the threads by the
cross stitch. If, on the other hand, the density of the second threads or fibres 2
is lower, the rigidity is reduced.
[0026] Figure 2 shows how the application of the second phase allows the preforming of the
first area 4 and the elasticity of the second area 5 is blocked.
[0027] As was previously described, the temperature of the second phase is equal to or higher
than the shape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres.
[0028] It is possible to incorporate a third phase in which a softener is applied to the
product obtained at the end of the second phase. This is because it is possible for
the end product to be rough and unpleasant to the touch due to the melted threads
or fibres.
[0029] The versatility of this proceeding permits its application to woven and knitted fabrics,
with one or two sides.
[0030] Another possibility (Figures 3 and 4) is to carry out the first and second phases
simultaneously by applying different pressure and temperature values at the same time
and by areas and, in the case of employing a high frequency machines, being able to
cut and weld the piece at the same time.
[0031] There is also the possibility of applying the flat procedure (Figure 4) to previously
cut pieces or completely or partially manufactured garments (in either the first or
second phase or both simultaneously) or there is the possibility of being able to
use flat plates for it or mould/counter-mould with shape.
[0032] This proceeding can be equally applied to tubular garments produced by the so-called
Santoni procedure. This procedure versatility and options are not covered by any of
the previous documents of the state of the art, especially those referring to completely
or partially manufactured garments, since these procedures have to be applied to all
the fabric and not partially as in this case.
[0033] Thus, the fabric resulting from the previously described proceeding comprises a fabric
3, the first threads of fibres 1 of which are arranged in the weft and the warp, with
the warp consisting of second threads or fibres 2, the melting point of which is lower
than the melting point of the first threads or fibres 1 and in which the melting point
of the second threads or fibres 2 is equal to or higher than the shape memory temperature
of the first threads or fibres 1. This allows that when the previous process is applied,
there are at least two different elasticities in the same fabric.
[0034] The first threads or fibres 1 and the second threads or fibres 2 are synthetic threads
or fibres. This is to facilitate thread melting. In fact, they could be selected from
the following:
[0035] For the first threads or fibres 1, there are NUREL®, GRILON®, TACTEL®, PA 6.10, PA
6.12, polyethylenterepthalates, polybutylenterepthalates, polyesters in general and
cellulose acetate etc., which in general are above 215°C.
[0036] For the second threads or fibres 2, there are PA 12, SARAN®, VINYON®, LACTRON® and
polypropylene fibres which, in general, do not exceed 180°C.
[0037] As indicated for the proceeding, depending on the roughness and feel of the end product,
the resulting fabric or garment can incorporate a softener.
[0038] The fabric can be a fabric with one or two sides, a cut piece, a circular tube (Santoni)
or even an already manufactured garment.
[0039] The patent describes a new proceeding for the manufacture of a permeable, elastic,
transpirable fabric or non-woven fabric and the fabric obtained. The examples cited
herein do not limit this invention, and therefore said invention can have various
applications and/or adaptations, all of which are included within the scope of the
following claims.
1. Proceeding for manufacturing a transpirable, permeable, elastic fabric or a non woven
fabric of the type in which said fabric or non-woven fabric (3) comprises a first
threads or fibres (1) arranged in the direction of the weft and in that of the warp,
including, either in the direction of the weft or in that of the warp or both, second
threads or fibres (2), the melting point of which is below that the melting point
of the first threads or fibres and which is
characterised in that it comprises:
- a first phase of stabilization of the fabric or non-woven fabric (3) in which, at
least one part of said fabric or non-woven fabric is subjected to a temperature equivalent
to the minimum shape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres (1), with said
temperature being below the melting point of the second threads (2) and
- a second phase of heat pre-shaping of the referred fabric or non-woven fabric resulting
from the first phase in which temperature and pressure is applied over at least part
of said fabric or non-woven fabric, with said temperature being equal to or higher
than the melting point of the second threads or fibres (2), thus varying the elasticity
of the area of fabric or non-woven fabric to which the mentioned heat is applied,
blocking the elasticity of the resulting fabric or non-woven fabric taking into account
of the higher or lower density of the first threads or fibres (1) and of the higher
or lower quantity of second threads or fibres (2) that are melted.
2. Proceeding in accordance with claim 1 characterised in that the second phase temperature coincides with the minimum shape memory temperature
of the first threads or fibres (1).
3. Proceeding in accordance with claim 1 characterised in that it incorporates a third phase in which a softener is applied to the product obtained
at the end of the second phase.
4. Proceeding in accordance with some of the previous claims characterised in that it is applied to woven and knitted fabrics of one or two sides.
5. Proceeding in accordance with some of the previous claims characterised in that the second phase is applied on flat and/or shaped.
6. Proceeding in accordance with some of the previous claims characterised in that the fabric or non-woven fabric is a cut piece before the second phase is applied.
7. Proceeding in accordance with some of the previous claims, from 1 to 6, characterised in that the fabric or non-woven fabric is a garment before the first phase is applied.
8. Proceeding in accordance with some of the previous claims, from 1 to 6, characterised in that the fabric or non-woven fabric is a garment before the second phase is applied.
9. A fabric in accordance with the previously described proceeding of the type in which
said fabric or non-woven fabric comprises a first threads or fibres (1) arranged in
the direction of the weft and in that of the warp, including, either in the direction
of the weft or in that of the warp or both, a second threads or fibres (2), the melting
point of which is below that the melting point of the first threads or fibres and
which is characterised in that the melting point of the second threads or fibres (2) is equal to or higher than
the minimum shape memory temperature of the first threads or fibres (1).
10. A fabric in accordance with claim 9 characterised in that the first threads or fibres (1) and the second threads or fibres (2) are synthetic
threads or fibres.
11. A fabric in accordance with claim 8 or 9 characterised in that it incorporates a softener.
12. A fabric in accordance with claim 8 or 9 characterised in that it is a fabric with two sides.
13. A fabric in accordance with some of the previous claims, from 8 to 11, characterised in that it is a cut piece.
14. A fabric in accordance with some of the previous claims, from 8 to 11, characterised in that the fabric or non-woven fabric is a garment.