Field of the invention
[0001] This invention relates generally to settings for precious stones or similar ornaments
in jewelry. More particularly it relates to jewelry settings for detachable and exchangeable
mounting of such ornaments in a piece of jewelry.
Background of the invention
[0002] A number of different gemstone settings of widely varying designs are known in the
art. These settings are used to confine and fix precious stones or similar ornaments
to a piece of jewelry. The settings are made of more or less intricately shaped holding
parts which typically require substantial skill of the jeweler, rendering the setting
process time consuming and expensive. Traditionally the setting comprises a base with
a number of protrusions extending upwardly from the base, with the protrusion ends
folding back over the stone or ornament to confine it. The number of protrusions and
their distribution depends on the size and shape of the stone.
[0003] Such ornament settings and similar commonly used settings typically require skill
and specialized equipment to properly mount the ornament to the piece of jewelry.
Hence, the detachment and replacement of gems and ornaments from such settings are
difficult, rendering jewelry comprising such settings static in nature. In addition,
for design and aesthetic reasons, the visible parts of protrusions or similar structures
that fold over the stone and partially cover it may not be desirable.
[0004] It is known in the trade to mount precious stones or other ornaments to pieces of
jewelry made in titanium in a gem setting that renders the perception of the gem hovering
in the air. The gem setting comprises two ornament holders similar to wings which
are connected through a base structure and face each other. On each of the inner mutually
facing surfaces of the two ornament holders there is arranged a notch or groove designed
to grip the precious stone or ornament. When an ornament of a suitable size is mounted,
the ornament holders have to be prized open or levered apart to allow edges of the
ornament to slip into the groves whereupon the holding parts are released and spring
back to press against the ornament. The ornament is dimensioned slightly to large
for the ornament fitting such that it is held in place through the grooves and by
inwardly directed forces being executed by the ornament holders as they strive to
return to their original position. This construction works for titanium gem settings
since this is a material that is capable of storing the tensions that arise when the
ornament holders are levered apart and thus elastically deformed. The construction
requires special tools for mounting a gem and its use is restricted to materials that
have a high capability of storing tension forces.
[0005] There is a demand for jewelry settings which allow for easy and safe detachment and
exchange of stones or other ornaments to a piece of jewelry, primarily without any
need for tools or special skills and that enables the use of a wide range of materials.
Related art
[0006] Examples of different replaceable gem stone settings presently existing in the jewelry
field are found in the following publications.
[0007] Patent document
US3653227 describes an interchangeable gem setting comprising two filiform circles contacting
each other at a position secured in the piece of jewelry, and inclined so as to face
each other with an angle. The diameter of the circles and their intermediary distance
is smaller than the diameter of the gem to be mounted. The removability and retention
of gem is rendered possible by the ability of the circles to be spread apart and spring
back to encircle the gem and exert pressure against it.
[0008] Patent document
US20010032481 A1 describes a replaceable gem stone setting in which the gem stone is held in place
by a casing and a hinged bottom cover.
[0009] Patent document
FR2740948 A1 describes a ring where a stone is held between two wings, where the wings comprise
a rib and a notch for grasping the stone. A support is also placed at the base of
the stone, by means of lower notches, to support the stone from beneath and prevent
it from jiggling.
[0010] Patent document
FR2870690 A1 describes a jewel with a setting where the stone is held between two wings and a
hinged support, supporting the stone from beneath.
Object of the Invention
[0012] The overall object of the present invention is to provide a solution to the problem
of providing a jewelry setting which enables easy and safe detachment and exchange
of stones or other ornaments to a piece of jewelry made of a wide variety of materials.
[0013] An aspect of the problem is to provide such a jewelry setting that enables exchangeable
ornaments in a piece of jewelry made in a soft metal, such as gold or silver.
Brief description of the drawings
[0014] The invention will be explained in more detail in the following description, referring
to the enclosed figures, where:
Fig 1a and 1b show the jewelry setting according to two embodiments of the invention;
Fig 2 shows different pieces of jewelry comprising the setting according to examplifying
embodiments of the invention.
Detailed description
[0015] Fig. 1a shows a jewelry setting 1 with two ornament holders 3 a, 3b which are coupled
to a setting base 2 of a piece of jewelry here exemplified by a ring. The ornament
holders 3 a, 3b each have an inner surface 4a, 4b and an outer surface 5a, 5b. They
are connected to the setting base 2 so that the inner surfaces 4a, 4b face each other.
The inner surfaces 4a, 4b are arranged with ornament confining structures 6a, 6b,
cavities that are shaped to hold the stone or ornament. The outer surfaces 5a, 5b
comprise clamp ring confining structures 7a, 7b, grooves that are arranged to hold
a clamp ring 8. The clamp ring 8 is a detachable ring of suitable material which is
arranged to fit tightly around the ornament holders 3a, 3b when the ornament 10 is
held in place by the ornament confining structures 6a, 6b.
[0016] The assembled jewelry setting 1 thus comprises ornament holders 3, ornament confining
structures 6 on the inner surfaces 4 of the ornament holders, a stone or other ornament
10, which is grasped by the ornament confining structures 6, clamp ring confining
structures 7 and a clamp ring 8, which can tightly encircle the ornament holders 3
and is held in place by the clamp ring confining structures 7. The stone or ornament
is in a preferred embodiment confined to the piece of jewelry by combined shape locking
functions and spring forces exerted by the ornament confining structures 6 and the
clamp ring 8.
[0017] The setting in accordance with the invention works for soft materials that have a
small elastic modulus and a short elastic range before entering into plastic deformation,
such as gold or silver. In an example with a setting made in gold, the ornament holders
are plastically deformed when they are levered apart to allow insertion of an ornament
into the position intended for the ornament. The ornament holders are levered back
into a position where they form a shape locking structure for the ornament. The clamp
ring has a dimension in relation to the ornament holders such that it has to be elastically
deformed when it is pulled over the ornament holders, and thereby tension forces are
introduced and stored in the clamp ring. The clamp ring is positioned over and springs
into the grooves of the holders, but still remains elastically tensed such that spring
forces are exerted towards the ornament holders while the clamp ring is shape locked
in position by the grooves.
[0018] Other combinations of highly elastic and less elastic materials in the clamp ring
and the ornament confining structure, respectively, are conceivable within the inventive
concept. For example, the spring forces may instead or complementary be stored in
the ornament holders in combination with a less elastic or non-elastic clamp ring.
[0019] In one embodiment, the ornament holders and the clamp ring are adapted to employ
primarily a shape locking function. For example by the clamp ring having a shape and
dimension freely fitting over the ornament holders in a first orientation, and shape
locking in a second orientation for example after having been rotated.
[0020] The ornament holders 3 can be of a variety of shapes Their inner shape will depend
on the shape of the stone or set of stones or other ornaments 10 that are to be used
with the particular piece of jewelry and can e.g. be bowed, flat, v-shaped or have
any other shape which matches the shape of the ornament. Their outer shape can be
varied according to the desired appearance of the piece of jewel, but must be matched
with the shape of the clamp ring 8. The number of ornament holders 3 is typically
two but may also be varied in order to match the shape of the ornament or to create
an attractive appearance. Additionally, the height of the ornament holders 3 can vary,
but will typically be in the range of a millimeter to a couple of centimeters.
[0021] The ornament confining structures 6 are shaped to fit the edge or circumference of
the desired ornament or set of ornaments 10. They may e.g. be made as indentations,
such as recesses, grooves or notches, on the inner surface 4 of the ornament holders
3. Alternatively, they may be arranged as shoulders or elevations extending somewhat
from the inner surfaces 4 of the ornament holders 3. In the latter case the ornament
10 will be supported from underneath by a lower elevation or other support structure,
such as the setting base, and will be held in place from above by an upper elevation.
In other embodiments the ornament confining structures 6 may comprise a combination
of indentations and elevations.
[0022] The clamp ring confining structures 7 are shaped to fit the inner shape of the clamp
ring 8. They may e.g. be made as indentations, such as recesses, grooves or notches,
on the outer surface 5 of the ornament holders 3. Alternatively, they may be arranged
as shoulders or elevations extending somewhat from the outer surface 5 of the ornament
holders 3, whereby the clamp ring 8 will be supported by a lower elevation or support
and held in place by an upper elevation. In other embodiments the clamp ring confining
structures 7 may comprise a combination of indentations and elevations.
[0023] The size of the clamp ring 8 is constrained in so far that it has to exert pressure
on the ornament holders 3. Its inner shape must match the shape and arrangement of
the ornament holders 3 as well as the shape of the clamp ring confining structures
7. Besides those constraints the clamp ring 8 can vary widely in shape and material,
e.g. to create a desired aesthetic impression. The clamp ring 8 can e.g. be made of
metal, rubber, wood, textile or tempered glass. Its outer shape can vary from round
to oval to square, star shaped, flower shaped or any other shape. The clamp ring 8
may also be further decorated with e.g. precious stones or other decorations.
[0024] The ornament 10 may be any kind of ornament that creates the desired impression of
the piece of jewelry. It may e.g. be a precious or gem stone, a semi-precious stone,
a stone imitation, or any other ornament made of e.g. metal, wood, glass or any other
synthetic or natural material. It must however have a circumferential shape that matches
the ornament confining structures 6, so that it is firmly grasped by the confining
structures 6 when the setting 1 is assembled.
[0025] The setting base 2, as well as the ornament holders 3, may be made of any metallic
material suitable for jewelry. The setting base 2 and the ornament holders 3 may be
made in one continuous piece or may be made of separate pieces, of the same or different
material, attached to one another. The shape of the setting base 2 may also vary widely
to suit different types of jewelry, e.g. a ring, bracelet, amulet or brooch.
[0026] The jewelry setting 1 is assembled by placing an ornament 10 between the ornament
holders 3, so that it is hooked by the ornament confining structures 6. While exerting
inwardly directed pressure on the ornament holders 3, to prevent the ornament 10 from
falling out, the clamp ring 8 is pushed over and around the ornament holders 3. The
clamp ring is placed in the clamp ring confining structures 7 to keep it in place
and prevent it from being pushed off or from simply falling off. The clamp ring 8
will now exert an inwardly directed force on the ornament holders 3, further putting
pressure on the ornament 10, such that it is held firmly in place by the ornament
confining structures 6. To replace the ornament 10 the clamp ring 8 is withdrawn from
the ornament holders 3, so that the pressure upon the holders 3 and thus the ornament
10 is removed, whereby the ornament 10 can be removed and replaced with another ornament
as above.
[0027] Fig. 2 shows examples of jewelry with replaceable ornaments, comprising a jewelry
setting. The examples are shown with the same reference numbers as in Fig 1, and as
shown the ornament holders, the clamp ring and the ornament may have different shapes.
Different kinds of jewelry include rings, pendants or amulets, bracelets and brooches.
They may be made of any metal suitable for jewelry, such as gold, silver, titanium
or different alloys, or even plastic materials. The ornament may be any kind of desired
ornament, as described above.
1. An ornament setting (1) comprising spatially separated and mutually facing ornament
holders (3) extending from a setting base (2), wherein
the ornament holders (3) on their respective mutually facing sides (4) are provided
with an ornament confining structure (6) defining a position for attachment of a detachable
ornament (10) between the ornament holders (3), characterized in
a detachable clamp ring (8) adapted to mate with a clamp ring confining structure
(7) provided on the outside of the ornament holders (3).
2. An ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein
the ornament confining structure (6) is arranged to fit an edge or circumference of
the ornament 10.
3. An ornament setting according to claims 1 or 2, wherein
a clamp ring confining structure (7) is arranged to fit an inner shape of the clamp
ring (8).
4. An ornament setting according to any of the claims 1-3, wherein
the ornament holders (3) are made of soft metal, such as silver or gold.
5. An ornament setting according to any of the claims 1-4 , wherein
the clamp ring is made of an elastic material such as metal, rubber, wood, textile
or tempered glass.
6. An ornament setting according to any of the claims 1-5, wherein
the clamp ring and the ornament holders are shaped and dimensioned to enable a combined
shape locking and tension locking mating between the clamp ring and the ornament holders.
7. An ornament setting according to any of the claims 1-6, wherein
the clamp ring and the ornament holders are shaped and dimensioned to enable a combined
shape locking mating between the clamp ring and the ornament holders.
8. A piece of jewelry with an ornament setting (1), the ornament setting (1) comprising
spatially separated and mutually facing ornament holders (3) extending from a setting
base (2), wherein
the ornament holders (3) on their respective mutually facing sides (4) are provided
with an ornament confining structure (6) defining a position for attachment of a detachable
ornament (10) between the ornament holders (3), characterized in
a detachable clamp ring (8) adapted to mate with a clamp ring confining structure
(7) provided on the outside of the ornament holders (3).
9. A piece of jewelry according to claim 8, wherein
the ornament confining structure (6) is arranged to fit the edge or circumference
of the ornament 10.
10. A piece of jewelry according to any of the claims 8 or 9, wherein
clamp ring confining structure (7) is arranged to fit inner shape of the clamp ring
(8).
11. A piece of jewelry according to any of the claims 8-10, wherein
the ornament holders (3) are made of soft metal, such as silver or gold.
12. A piece of jewelry according to any of the claims 8-11 , wherein
the clamp ring is made of an elastic material such as metal, rubber, wood, textile
or tempered glass.
13. A piece of jewelry according to any of the claims 8-12, wherein
the clamp ring and the ornament holders are shaped and dimensioned to enable a combined
shape locking and tension locking mating between the clamp ring and the ornament holders.
14. An ornament setting according to any of the claims 8-13, wherein
the clamp ring and the ornament holders are shaped and dimensioned to enable a combined
shape locking mating between the clamp ring and the ornament holders.
Amended claims in accordance with Rule 137(2) EPC.
2. An ornament setting according to claim 1, wherein
the ornement confining struture (6) is arranged to fit an edge or circonference of
the ornement 10.
3. An ornement setting according to claim 1 or 2, wherein
a clamp ring confining structure (7) is arranged to fit an inner shape of the clamp
ring (8).
4. An ornement setting according to any claim 1-3, wherein
the ornement holders (3) are made of soft metal, such as silver or gold.
5. An ornement setting according to claims 1-4, wherein
the clamp ring is made of an elastic material such as metal, rubber, wood textile
or tempered glass.
6. New claim, based on old claim 8