[0001] The present invention concerns a cut diamond.
[0002] The quality and value of cut and polished diamonds for ornamental use is often described
by the four C's:
[0003] Carat is the unit of weight of diamonds with one carat being equal to 200 mg. Traditionally
the value of a diamond has been determined by its size or weight expressed in carats.
The larger the stone, the higher its value.
[0004] Clarity refers to the imperfections and inherent impurities that are already present
in the raw stone.
[0005] Color is also determined by the raw stone. The colorless and transparent stones are
scarcer and thus more valuable.
[0006] Cut refers to the cutting and polishing of the stone in a particular form having
numerous facets. The way a stone is cut determines the path that light entering the
stone will follow. Almost all of the light that enters the stone will also leave it
again. The reflections, refraction and dispersion along the light path will determine
the brilliance and the fire of the stone.
[0007] Color and clarity are intrinsic properties of the stone, for which grading scales
have been established. Their values cannot be changed to augment the value of the
stone.
[0008] Historically, the stones were cut and polished in ways that tried to preserve the
maximum of the weight during the process while faulty places like spots or grains
could be removed. Since the play of light in the stone was not coordinated, the light
did not produce much fire, nor brilliance in the stone.
[0009] Over the last centuries, the brilliance and the fire exhibited by a cut stone became
features that were more appreciated than the mere weight of the stone.
[0010] Even with modern techniques, the cutting and polishing of a diamond crystal always
results in dramatic loss of weight: this loss is rarely less than fifty percent.
[0011] When the crystal is an octahedron, the round brilliant cut is often preferred as
often two stones can be cut from one crystal. As its name suggests the brilliant cut
is characterized by much brilliance and fire.
[0012] In the middle of the seventeenth century, the first diamonds were cut in a form that
was a precursor of the present-day brilliant cut, the so-called mazarins or double-cut
brilliants. Since then the design of the brilliant cut has further evolved.
[0013] The different dimension and angles of a brilliant cut to maximize the brilliance
were determined by skill rather than by science. In 1912 Marcel Tolkowsky published
his book "Diamond design, A study of Reflection and Refraction in Diamond". This book
contains a mathematical study to determine the optimal angles and dimensions to achieve
the maximum brilliance with the brilliant cut.
[0014] Tolkowsky's ideal model did not take all the aspects into consideration: it was a
two-dimensional model, did not consider the effects of the girdle. Since then the
model has been slightly fine-tuned. But nevertheless investigation of diamonds that
were considered to be cut and polished very well and that were obtained by mere skill
were found to have almost the same dimensions and angles as predicted by Tolkowsky's
ideal model.
[0015] We can conclude that the value of a stone of given size can be influenced by differing
the way that it is cut. The purpose is to obtain a maximum of brilliance and fire
in the stone while preserving the maximum of weight possible.
[0016] The problem is that these are conflicting requirements.
[0017] It is therefore an objective of the present invention to provide a solution that
at least alleviates the above-mentioned and other disadvantages.
[0018] Thereto the present invention discloses a cut diamond,
characterized in that it is a convex polyhedron and has eighty-nine facets, which are thirty-two facets
more than a traditional ideal-cut brilliant, in particular eight extra facets on the
crown by substituting each of the eight kite facets of a traditional ideal-cut brilliant
diamond by two triangular facets, namely a table break facet and a girdle break facet,
which have a common edge namely the girdle break which lies in a plane parallel to
the table, and whereby twenty-four of the thirty-two extra facets are added in the
pavilion by substituting each of the eight lower main facets of a traditional ideal-cut
brilliant with four facets, namely a bottom star pavilion, two bottom star halves,
and bottom girdle pavilion, touching each other in a point, namely the meeting point,
and whereby the pavilion height is approximately three percent longer than the pavilion
height in the corresponding traditional ideal-cut brilliant.
[0019] A cut diamond according to the invention does further enhance the brilliancy and
fire of such a diamond and at the same time allows to preserve more of the weight
of the raw stone compared to the brilliant cut design.
[0020] The most important technical feature of a cut diamond according to the invention
lies thus in the weight preservation compared to the ideal-cut brilliant.
[0021] An esthetical and quality feature of the invention is the augmented brilliance and
fire exposed by such a cut diamond according to the invention.
[0022] Another esthetical feature is the eight-pointed star shape that can be observed in
the diamond.
[0023] With the intention of better showing the characteristics of the invention, hereafter,
as an example without any limitative character, a preferred form of embodiment is
described of a cut diamond, with reference to the accompanying drawings, wherein:
figure 1 schematically represents a front elevational view of a cut diamond according
to known ideal-cut brilliant;
figure 2 is a top plan view of the diamond in figure 1;
figure 3 is a bottom plan view of the diamond in figure 1;
figure 4 shows a partial cross section along line IV-IV in figure 2;
figure 5 schematically represents a front elevational view of a cut diamond according
to the invention;
figure 6 is a top plan view of the diamond in figure 4;
figure 7 is a bottom plan view of the diamond in figure 4;
figure 8 shows a partial cross section along line VIII-VIII in figure 6;
figure 9 represents the diamond in figure 5 with some light rays indicated.
[0024] Since the shape of a cut diamond according to the invention can be most easily explained
starting from the shape of an ideal-cut brilliant, we will first explain the geometry
of such an ideal-cut brilliant 1.
[0025] An ideal-cut brilliant 1 consists of fifty-seven facets when no culet is present.
The shape of such a diamond can be deducted from the figures 1 to 4.
[0026] An ideal-cut brilliant 1 consists of an upper part, called the crown 2, and a lower
part, called the pavilion 3. These two parts are separated by a relative thin disk,
called the girdle 4. For the purpose of the invention, it is not necessary that the
girdle 4 is present. When no girdle 4 is present the horizontal plane common to the
crown 2 and the pavilion 3 can still be called the girdle plane. The girdle 4 itself
may be facetted or not. This is not relevant to the present invention.
[0027] The crown 2 comprises thirty-three facets.
[0028] The top facet of the crown 2 lies in a horizontal plane and is called the table 5.
[0029] There are eight crown kite facets 6, eight crown star facets 7 and sixteen top halve
facets 8.
[0030] The pavilion 3 comprises 16 bottom halve facets 9 and eight lower main facets 10.
The pavilion 3 may also contain a culet facet, which is a facet located near the apex
of the pavilion 3 and which is parallel to the table 5.
[0031] In an ideal-cut brilliant 1 the axis through the center of the table 5 and through
the apex of the pavilion 3, or the center of the culet, if present, is, as known,
an eight-fold symmetry axis.
[0032] The shape of the ideal-cut brilliant 1 can be described by eight independent parameters.
Other proportions can be easily calculated from the independent parameters. The following
table 1 summarizes in a known manner, the most important parameters with indication
of their ranges and a reference to the figures.
Table 1
| |
Min |
Max |
Ref. |
| Diameter in girdle plane |
100% |
100% |
R |
| Total Depth |
59,80% |
62,40% |
d |
| Table |
53,00% |
57,40% |
f |
| Crown Height |
13,80% |
15,90% |
a |
| Girdle |
2,80% |
4,00% |
b |
| Pavilion Depth |
42,00% |
43,50% |
c |
| Star Angle |
23.0° |
24.4° |
D |
| Top Halves Angle |
41.0° |
42.9° |
C |
| Crown Angle |
33.7° |
35.4° |
A |
| Bottom Halves Angle |
41.9° |
42.0° |
E |
| Pavilion Angle |
40.5° |
41.1° |
B |
| Star Length % |
52% |
56% |
j/h |
| Top Halves Length % |
54% |
58% |
i/h |
| Bottom Halves Length % |
76% |
78% |
e |
[0033] Less important is the measure g, which indicates the minimum height of the girdle
4 as can be seen in figure 1.
[0034] In the figures an ideal-cut brilliant 1 with no culet is shown.
[0035] A diamond cut according to the invention 11 without a culet facet is also a convex
polyhedron but it has eighty-nine facets. This is thus thirty-two more than a traditional
ideal-cut brilliant 1.
[0036] Eight of these extra facets are added on the crown 2 by substituting each of the
eight kite facets 6 of a traditional ideal-cut brilliant diamond by two triangular
facets, namely a table break facet 12 and a girdle break facet 13, which have a common
edge namely the girdle break that lies in a plane parallel to the table 5.
[0037] The word substituting is in this context merely used to indicate the facets of traditional
ideal-cut brilliant 1 where the modifications take place. It does certainly not indicate
that a cut diamond according to the invention 11 is meant to be obtained starting
from an ideal-cut brilliant 1.
[0038] The other twenty-four of the thirty-two extra facets are added in the pavilion 3
by substituting each of the eight lower main facets 10 of a traditional ideal-cut
brilliant 1 with four facets, namely a bottom girdle pavilion 14, two bottom star
halves 15 and a bottom star pavilion 16.
[0039] As can be seen, for example in figure 5, these four facets touch each other in one
point that lies out of the plane of the lower main facet 10 of the corresponding ideal-cut
brilliant 1. These points should be chosen so that the cut diamond according to the
invention 11 is essentially a convex polyhedron.
[0040] The axis going through the center of the table 5 and through the apex of the pavilion
3, or through the center of the culet, if present, is preferably an eight-fold symmetry
axis.
[0041] The following table 2 summarizes the most important parameters of a preferred embodiment
of a cut diamond according to the invention 11 with indication of their ranges and
a reference to the figures.
Table 2
| |
Min |
Max |
Ref |
| Diameter in girdle plane |
100,00% |
100,00% |
R |
| Total Depth |
62,00% |
66,00% |
d |
| Table |
57,00% |
62,00% |
f |
| Crown Height |
11,50% |
16,50% |
a |
| Girdle |
1,50% |
5,10% |
b |
| Pavilion Depth |
45,00% |
47,50% |
c |
| Crown Break |
35,00% |
40,00% |
k |
| Girdle Break |
60,00% |
65,00% |
I |
| Girdle Halve |
45,00% |
47,00% |
n |
| Meeting point |
62,00% |
64,00% |
m |
| Top Table Break Angle |
28.0° |
33.5° |
F |
| Top Girdle Break Angle |
35.5° |
38.5° |
G |
| Top Halves Angle |
41.5° |
42.5° |
C |
| Crown Star Angle |
22.0° |
25.0° |
D |
| Bottom Girdle Halves Angle |
46.5° |
48.5° |
E |
| Bottom Girdle Pavilion Angle |
44.0° |
45.5° |
H |
| Bottom Star Halves Angle |
38.0° |
40.0° |
J |
| Bottom Star Pavilion Angle |
37.0° |
38.0° |
I |
[0042] Light is dispersed and refracted into the diamond at the crown break. The refracted
light falls onto the additional twenty-four facets in the pavilion 3 and the star
pattern explodes back to the table. Typically the pavilion 3 of a cut diamond according
to the invention 11 is deeper than that of an ideal-cut brilliant 1, this makes that
such a cut diamond holds the light longer in the diamond.
[0043] This 'Tube effect' is schematically represented in figure 9.
[0044] A diamond cut according to the invention 11 may have a facetted girdle 4 or not.
Both cases are seen as alternatives that fall under the protection of the present
invention. Hereby is, in the case of a facetted girdle 4, the number of girdle facets
determined according to the state of art in the field.
[0045] In another alternative form, a diamond cut according to the invention 11 can have
a culet facet added to the bottom of the pavilion 3.
[0046] The present invention also concerns a method to cut a diamond into a shape that has
a geometry that satisfies the range conditions for the dimensions and angles that
are given in table 2.
[0047] The present invention is in no way limited to the form of embodiment described by
way of an example and represented in the figures, however, such a cut diamond according
to the invention 11 can be realized in various forms, without leaving the scope of
the invention.
1. A cut diamond (11), characterized in that it is a convex polyhedron and has eighty-nine facets, which are thirty-two facets
more than a traditional ideal-cut brilliant (1), in particular eight extra facets
on the crown (2) by substituting each of the eight kite facets (6) of a traditional
ideal-cut brilliant diamond (1) by two triangular facets, namely a table break facet
(12) and a girdle break facet (13), which have a common edge namely the girdle break
which lies in a plane parallel to the table (5), and whereby twenty-four of the thirty-two
extra facets are added in the pavilion (3) by substituting each of the eight lower
main facets (10) of a traditional ideal-cut brilliant (1) with four facets, namely
a bottom star pavilion (14), two bottom star halves (15), and bottom girdle pavilion
(16), touching each other in a point, namely the meeting point, and whereby the pavilion
height is approximately three percent longer than the pavilion height in the corresponding
traditional ideal-cut brilliant (1).
2. A cut diamond (11) according to claim 1, characterized in that the eight bottom star pavilion facets (16) join in the culet or in the apex of the
pavilion (3) to form a symmetrical eight-pointed star shape when observed from the
bottom.
3. A cut diamond (11) according to claim 1 or 2,
characterized in that the different dimensions, relative to the girdle diameter, and angles are in accordance
with the values given in the following table:
| |
Min |
Max |
Ref |
| Diameter in girdle plane |
100,00% |
100,00% |
R |
| Total Depth |
62,00% |
66,00% |
d |
| Table |
57,00% |
62,00% |
f |
| Crown Height |
11,50% |
16,50% |
a |
| Girdle |
1,50% |
5,10% |
b |
| Pavilion Depth |
45,00% |
47,50% |
c |
| Crown Break |
35,00% |
40,00% |
k |
| Girdle Break |
60,00% |
65,00% |
I |
| Girdle Halve |
45,00% |
47,00% |
n |
| Meeting point |
62,00% |
64,00% |
m |
| Top Table Break Angle |
28.0° |
33.5° |
F |
| Top Girdle Break Angle |
35.5° |
38.5° |
G |
| Top Halves Angle |
41.5° |
42.5° |
C |
| Crown Star Angle |
22.0° |
25.0° |
D |
| Bottom Girdle Halves Angle |
46.5° |
48.5° |
E |
| Bottom Girdle Pavilion Angle |
44.0° |
45.5° |
H |
| Bottom Star Halves Angle |
38.0° |
40.0° |
J |
| Bottom Star Pavilion Angle |
37.0° |
38.0° |
I |
4. A cut diamond (11) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the axis going through the center of the table (5) and through the apex of the pavilion
(3), or through the center of the culet, is an eight-fold symmetry axis.
5. A cut diamond (11) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the girdle (4) is not facetted.
6. A cut diamond (11) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the girdle (4) is facetted.
7. A cut diamond (11) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a culet facet is present.
8. A method to cut a diamond into a shape that has a geometry that satisfies the range
conditions for the dimensions and angles that are given in table accompanying claim
3.