[0001] The present invention relates to a process for making clothes of the type as recited
in the preamble of Claim 1.
[0002] In particular, the invention concerns a particular process suitable for making underwear
not in plain colours and, more specifically, characterised by the presence of a printed
motif and/or design.
[0003] As is known, the manufacture of underwear or other similar garments currently involves
the processing of rolls of fabric by performing a specific sequence of operations.
[0004] This sequence preferably involves first of all dying the fabric to give it a uniform
colour.
[0005] The fabric is then appropriately printed using specific printing machines.
[0006] In particular, there are two kinds of printed designs.
[0007] A first type of design is known as "all-over" design. All-over designs consist of
a repeated pattern, for instance small motifs, dots, squares, flowers or the like
or other patterns the position of which on the finished garment is not relevant. This
category also includes uniform colours that are not printed but simply dyed.
[0008] A second type of design is known as "placed" designs. Placed designs are designs
the position of which on the garment is important, in particular large-scale designs
or other motifs.
[0009] The dyed fabric thus undergoes a finishing process and is then cut, using cutting
dies or other means, according to the shape of the garment to be made. The portion
of fabric may then be sewn to obtain the garment.
[0010] The prior art described above has several significant drawbacks.
[0011] A first important drawback in the prior art processes is that they are lengthy and
highly complex and, as a consequence, very expensive.
[0012] In particular, owing to the excessive cost of the final printing process, said garments
are generally made with all-over designs.
[0013] In this situation the technical purpose of the present invention is to develop a
process for making clothes able to substantially overcome the inconveniences mentioned
above.
[0014] Within the sphere of said technical purpose one important aim of the invention is
to provide a process for making clothes that is simple and economical even in the
presence of placed designs.
[0015] A further purpose of the invention is to obtain a process for making clothes that
can be used to manufacture low-cost garments.
[0016] The technical purpose and specified aims are achieved with a process for making clothes
as claimed in the appended Claim 1.
[0017] Preferred embodiments are described in the dependent claims.
[0018] The characteristics and advantages of the invention are clearly evident from the
following detailed description of a preferred embodiment thereof, with reference to
the accompanying drawings, in which:
Fig. 1 is a schematic illustration of the process for making clothes according to the invention;
and
Fig. 2 illustrates a portion of fabric obtained with the process according to the present
invention.
[0019] With reference to said drawings, reference numeral
1 globally denotes the process for making clothes according to the invention.
[0020] The process is suitable for use to manufacture garments, preferably underwear, in
particular bras, underpants and panties, bodysuits, swimwear and the like featuring
placed designs. As described above, placed designs are designs for which the position
on the finished garment is important, in particular motifs that must be in a fixed
position on the surface of the garment.
[0021] The production process 1 is performed on a ladder-proof fabric
2 suitable to have raw-cut edges. Ladder-proof refers to a fabric obtained on weaving
machines having a loom of the type for ladder-proof working and made up of a first
elastic thread, Lycra® for example, and a second non-elastic thread, such as polyamide,
which extend substantially together and in the same direction, with an advantageous
periodicity of two stitches and forming preferably open loops. In greater detail,
the elastic fabric is present in a percentage of between 15% and 45%, and more preferably
of between 20% and 41%, while the non-elastic fabric makes up the remainder. Preferably,
this material is a Sensitive® fabric, produced by Eurojersey.
[0022] The fabric 2 is generally wound in rolls and thus defines a longitudinal direction
2a, i.e. the main direction of extension, and a transverse direction
2b, i.e. the width of the fabric corresponding to the height of the roll round which
it is wound.
[0023] The process 1 preferably comprises, in brief, a dying step; a printing step
3 in which the fabric 2 is printed; a finishing step, in which the print is fixed and
the fabric 2 washed; a winding step
4 in which the fabric 2, after being printed, is appropriately wound in printed rolls
4a; and a cutting step
5 in which the fabric 2 is cut.
[0024] Advantageously, during the printing step 3 a plurality of printed bands
3a extending mainly in a direction parallel to the longitudinal direction 2a are obtained.
[0025] Advantageously, the printed bands 3a have placed designs along at least the transverse
direction 2b, meaning motifs the position of which on the finished garment is important
at least in the transverse direction 2b, which corresponds to the direction perpendicular
to the main direction of extension of the bands 3a, as illustrated in Fig. 2. Preferably
along the longitudinal direction 2a the printed bands 3a have designs that are not
placed designs. Alternatively the motifs may be placed in both directions.
[0026] The printed bands 3a have a width, in the transverse direction 3b, substantially
proportional, preferably substantially equal, to a dimension of the garments to be
made and, thus, to the size and the type and/or shape of the garment to be made. For
example, if the garments to be made are bras or underpants or panties, said printed
bands 3a have a width similar or equal to the height of said bras or underpants or
panties. In particular the width of each printed band 3a approximates a dimension
of the garments to be made with a precision of more than 90%.
[0027] The printed bands 3a may also be of different sizes or have different motifs as required.
[0028] Alongside said printed bands 3a there are preferably one or more dividing borders
3b each of which is arranged between two printed bands 3a and, possibly, two peripheral
borders
3d arranged at the ends of the fabric 2, preferably having a width that is half that
of the dividing borders 3b.
[0029] In detail, the dividing borders 3b are bands or strips of unprinted, plain fabric
or with an all-over design, as described previously.
[0030] Furthermore, the dividing borders 3b have a width perpendicular to the main direction
of extension, of less than 10 cm and, preferably equal to 5 cm.
[0031] Once the printing step 3 and said finishing step have been completed, the process
1 consists of a winding step 4 in which the printed fabric 2 is wound, preferably,
into a printed roll 4a. The printed roll 4a is preferably covered with a protective
film, preferably made of PVC or other similar material.
[0032] The subsequent step in the process 1 is a cutting step 5 in which the fabric 2 is
cut at least in correspondence with cutting lines
3c suitable to reciprocally divide, at least partially, the single printed bands 3a.
The latter are made along the edges of the printed band 3a, or, if present, along
the dividing borders 3b. The cutting step 5 preferably also envisages the cutting
of the protective film and of the roll holder, which results in significant advantages
in terms of speed of production.
[0033] The cutting step is also made possible by the particular fabric described previously
which, due to its intrinsic properties, is not subject to curling along the peripheral
portions next to the cutting lines 3c.
[0034] When the cutting step 5 has been performed, pre-finished rolls
5a are obtained, each having a single printed band 3a preferably having a portion of
dividing border 3b along each of the lateral edges.
[0035] When the pre-finished rolls 5a have been obtained, the garment is made in a finishing
step, in which a portion of fabric 2 from a pre-finished roll 5a and, more precisely,
a portion of printed band 3a is cut out, sewn, heat-sealed, glued or subject to other
known operations.
[0036] The profile of the finished garment has, as mentioned previously, at least one dimension
that is very similar to the width of the printed band 3a from which it was obtained.
[0037] This last finishing step may be performed completely separately from the previous
steps, for example by another company, and even several months later. This is possible,
despite the fact that the single rolls 5a are not sewn, heat-sealed or glued along
the edges, because the fabric 2 is of the ladder-proof type and suitable to be left
with raw-cut edges, as described previously.
[0038] The invention achieves some important advantages.
[0039] A first important advantage lies in the fact that the process 1 is cheaper to implement
that the processes known in the prior art.
[0040] In particular, there is no need to align the printed fabric with the cutting die
of the garment 1 and no other expensive operations are necessary.
[0041] The use of pre-finished rolls 5a characterised by a single printed band 3a having
a placed design and dimensions very similar to one dimension of the finished garment
means that the final machining process can be performed quickly and economically and
makes it possible to obtain said placed design design.
[0042] Said advantage is particularly evident when comparing the process 1 with the prior
art processes. With the process 1 the print is always perfectly centred, whereas with
the prior art processes lengthy and complex operations have to be performed for each
garment in order to align the print with the garment. Moreover, with the process 1
almost all of the fabric is used so that the amount of waste is reduced to a minimum,
unlike with the prior art processes involving the use of placed designs.
[0043] Said advantages are further enhanced by the use of the specific fabric 2 which allows
the use of raw-cut edges so that, once the rolls have been obtained, there is no deterioration
of the fabric 2 or subsequent wasting of material, as mentioned previously.
[0044] Moreover, the use of the specific fabric that is not subject to curling, means that
the rolls can be cut without any problem.
[0045] Another important advantage lies in the fact that, owing to the presence of the protective
film, the pre-finished rolls 5a can be stored easily without the risk of the fabric
2 deteriorating.
[0046] Modifications and variations may be made to the invention described herein without
departing from the scope of the present invention. All the elements as described and
claimed herein may be replaced with equivalent elements and the scope of the invention
includes all other details, materials, shapes and dimensions.
1. A process (1) for making a garment starting from a fabric (2) having a main longitudinal
direction of extension (2a) and a transverse direction (2b) perpendicular to the longitudinal
direction (2a), said fabric comprising a first elastic thread and a second non-elastic
thread, which extend substantially together and in the same direction, with a periodicity
of two stitches, said process being characterised in that it comprises: a printing step (3) in which a plurality of printed bands (3a) having
placed designs along at least said transverse direction (2b) are printed on said fabric
(2), a cutting step (5) in which said fabric (2) is cut in correspondence with cutting
lines (3c) suitable to reciprocally divide, at least partially, said single printed
bands (3a), and in that said printed bands (3a) have a width, in said transverse direction (3b), proportional
to a dimension of said garment.
2. The process (1) as claimed in claim 1, wherein in said printing step (3) said printed
bands (3a) have placed designs exclusively along said transverse direction (2b).
3. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein said printed
bands (3a) have a width, in said transverse direction (3b), which approximates a dimension
of said garment with a precision of more than 90%.
4. The process (1) as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein said printed bands (3a)
have a width, in said transverse direction (3b), substantially equal to a dimension
of said garment.
5. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein in said
printing step (3) dividing borders (3b) are printed each of which is arranged between
two of said printed bands (3a).
6. The process (1) as claimed in claim 5, wherein said cutting lines (3c) are arranged
along said dividing borders (3b).
7. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein in said
cutting step (5) said fabric (2) is cut to obtain portions of fabric (2) including
a single one of said printed bands (3a).
8. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, comprising a winding
step (4) in which said fabric (2) is wound to obtain at least one printed roll (4a),
said winding step (4) being performed after said printing step (3) and before said
cutting step (5).
9. The process (1) as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein in said winding step (4)
said printed roll (4a) is preferably covered with a protective film, and wherein in
said cutting step (5) said protective film is also cut.
10. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein said printed
roll (4a) is wound on a roll holder, and wherein in said cutting step (5) said roll
holder is also cut.
11. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, suitable to make
underwear garments.
12. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, suitable to make
swimwear.
13. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein said threads
of said fabric preferably form open loops.
14. The process (1) as claimed in one or more of the preceding claims, wherein said elastic
thread is present in a percentage substantially comprised between 15% and 45% and
wherein said non-elastic thread makes up the remainder.