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(11) | EP 3 118 359 A1 |
| (12) | EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION |
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| (54) | PROCESS FOR PRODUCING A RIBBON AND RIBBON OBTAINED ACCORDING TO SAID PROCESS |
| (57) A production process for a ribbon, in particular for items of clothing, comprises
the steps of: - weaving a ribbon (1) by interlacing at least a first plurality of warp threads which are produced from discontinuous fibre and a second plurality of warp threads which are produced from textured polyamide or textured polyester, with at least one weft thread in accordance with such a weaving scheme that there is produced on a mutually opposing first face (2) and second face (3) of the ribbon (1) a prevalence of threads of the first plurality and the second plurality, respectively, - subjecting the ribbon to a sanforizing process. |
Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a production process for producing a ribbon, in particular to be used for items of clothing, having the features set out in the preamble of the main claim.
Technological background
[0003] In the technical field which is inherent to the production of items of clothing, it is known to use ribbons to be applied in the internal or external portion of an item of clothing with a decorative and/or reinforcing function.
[0004] The ribbons, also known as edgings, are produced from various yarns and with various weaving techniques in accordance with the yarn used for the item of clothing for which they are intended and the thickness and the characteristics of the item of clothing for which they are intended, respectively.
[0005] Those ribbons in fact have to be adapted to the greatest possible extent to the characteristics of the item of clothing to which they have to be applied so as not to generate undesirable discontinuities.
[0006] In particular, it is required that those ribbons be adapted to the deformations, such as, for example, lengthening, of the material of the item of clothing to which they are applied.
[0007] A preferred type of known ribbons is formed by ribbons of cotton, which are not, however, sufficiently adapted to the deformations of the material to which they are applied, generating undesirable tensions and unsightly and irritating wrinkles for the user. In order to overcome that disadvantage, it is known to produce ribbons of elastic synthetic fibres which are subject, however, to other disadvantages, for example, during the dyeing step of the item; it is further known to produce ribbons with mesh type processing which do not, however, allow an effective reinforcement to be obtained and are suitable only for limited applications and with specific materials.
[0008] Therefore, there is a requirement to provide a woven ribbon, that is to say, a ribbon formed by interlacing warp and weft threads, which is at the same time resistant, elastic and well tolerated by the user.
[0009] In the technical field in question, there is further known the process of sanforizing which is used in particular for cotton materials and by means of which there is obtained a controlled shrinkage of the materials having the purpose of reducing the subsequent shrinkage to which they will be subjected with use and washing.
[0010] The sanforizing process provides for the compaction of the material as a result of a combined mechanical and thermal action so as to shrink the material in the direction of the length.
Statement of invention
[0011] The problem which is addressed by the present invention is to provide a production process for a ribbon, in particular for items of clothing, as well as a ribbon which is obtained with that process, which are configured to overcome the drawbacks mentioned above with reference to the cited prior art.
[0012] In the context of this problem, an object of the invention is to develop a process which allows an elastic woven ribbon to be obtained.
[0013] The term "elastic" is intended here to be understood to mean that the ribbon extends when it is subjected to traction force and which returns to the initial formation at the end of the application of the traction force.
[0014] Furthermore, the term "ribbon" is intended to be understood to mean a strip of material to be used as an edging, or trimming, in an item of clothing.
[0015] This problem is solved and those objects are achieved by the present invention by means of a production process for a ribbon, in particular for items of clothing, which is produced in accordance with the appended claims.
Brief description of the drawings
[0016] The features and advantages of the present invention will be better appreciated from the detailed description of a preferred embodiment thereof which is illustrated by way of non-limiting example and with reference to the drawings, in which:
- Figure 1 is a partial plan view of a ribbon which is produced with a production process according to the present invention;
- Figure 2 is a sectioned view taken in the plane II-II of Figure 1;
- Figure 3 is a schematic view of a plant which is provided for carrying out the process of the invention.
Preferred embodiment of the invention
[0017] With reference to the appended Figures, there is generally designated 1 a ribbon which is obtained with a production process according to the present invention.
[0018] The ribbon 1 is of planar form, in which there are defined a first face 2 and a second face 3 which are opposite each other and which are intended to constitute during use, that is to say, when the ribbon 1 is applied to an item of clothing (not illustrated in the appended Figures), respectively, the visible face and the concealed face, that is to say, the face which is arranged in contact with the item of clothing to which the ribbon 1 is applied.
[0019] The ribbon 1 is delimited by two opposing longitudinal edges 4 which are provided with selvedge in order to ensure the dimensional stability thereof and to prevent occurrences of fraying.
[0020] The ribbon 1 is woven, that is to say, produced by interlacing at least a first plurality of warp threads and a second plurality of warp threads with at least one weft thread.
[0021] The ribbon 1 is obtained with a non-symmetrical weaving design, that is to say, so that there is on the two opposing faces 2, 3 of the ribbon a prevalence of threads of one of the two pluralities of warp threads, for example, a prevalence of threads of the first plurality of threads on the first face 2 and a prevalence of threads of the second plurality of threads on the second face 3, respectively, or vice versa.
[0022] The term weaving scheme or ratio is intended to be understood to mean the minimum number of warp threads and weft threads necessary to represent the weaving.
[0023] In order to obtain the weave 1, it is possible to use various weaving schemes, preferably at a ratio less than or equal to 1:2, so that, as set out above, there is on the two opposing faces of the ribbon a prevalence of threads of the first plurality and the second plurality of warp threads, respectively.
[0024] Preferably, the ribbon 1 is woven using a weaving scheme at a ratio of 1:3. The threads of the first plurality and the second plurality of warp threads may be produced from mutually different materials.
[0025] The threads of the first plurality of threads are intended to form in a prevalent manner the visible face 2 of the ribbon 1 so as to be positioned in some applications in contact with the skin of the user.
[0026] The first plurality of warp threads may be produced from any synthetic or natural fibre, provided that it is of the discontinuous type (or "cotton staple fibre" type fibre), so as to allow the compaction process.
[0027] In a first preferred embodiment, the first plurality of warp threads is of cotton, while, in a second preferred embodiment, the first plurality of warp threads is of polyester.
[0028] In a first preferred embodiment, the second plurality of warp threads is of textured polyamide (textured nylon), that is to say, subjected to a texturing processing operation in order to increase the volume and cotton elasticity thereof, while, in a second preferred embodiment, the second plurality of warp threads is of textured polyester.
[0029] By the texturing process being modified advantageously, it is possible to vary the deformability and the elasticity of the nylon or the polyester obtained.
[0030] The weft threads of the ribbon 1 are preferably of cotton, in order to facilitate the dyeing in a bath of the item to which the ribbon 1 is applied.
[0031] In the version shown, the threads of the ribbon are woven so as to generate on the visible face 2 a decorative element 5 with a desired pattern which may optionally be produced in contrasting colours with respect to the colour of the threads of the first plurality of threads.
[0032] In other versions which are not shown, the ribbon 1 is provided with one or more decorative elements in accordance with the decorative effect which it is desirable to produce, or also without decorative elements.
[0033] Following the weaving, the ribbon 1 is subjected to a sanforizing process, that is to say, controlled compaction of the fibres of the ribbon, as will be better explained below.
[0034] In order to carry out the sanforizing of the ribbon 1, it is possible to use a sanforizing plant 6 which is shown in Figure 3 but, in other versions which are not shown, there may be used other pieces of equipment which are suitable for carrying out the sanforizing process of the invention.
[0035] The sanforizing plant 6 comprises a plurality of processing units which are intended to subject the ribbon 1 to different steps of the sanforizing process and movement means for moving the ribbon 1 in the advance direction indicated by the arrow F, along a processing path which passes successively through the various processing units in which the ribbon 1 is subjected in succession to the various steps of the sanforizing process.
[0036] The movement means comprise a plurality of motorized rollers which are intended to move the ribbon 1 through the various processing units provided.
[0037] In the version shown of the sanforizing plant 6, the plurality of processing units comprise an atomization unit 41, a vapour humidification unit 42, a first compaction unit 50 and a second compaction unit 55 and a cooling unit 60 which are successively positioned over the processing path of the ribbon 1.
[0038] In other versions which are not shown, the sanforizing plant 6 may comprise a single compaction unit or also more than two compaction units.
[0039] The ribbon 1 is initially supplied to the atomization unit 41, in which it is subjected to an atomized water jet at ambient temperature, between 15°C and 30°C, for a time between approximately 5 seconds and approximately 10 seconds, in order to bring about a first cold humidification of the ribbon 1.
[0040] Subsequently, the ribbon 1 is supplied to a vapour humidification unit 42, in which it is subjected to a saturated vapour jet at a temperature T1 between 110°C and 180°C, preferably between 130°C and 150°C, for a time τ between 4 and 10 seconds, preferably between 6 and 8 seconds.
[0041] Preferably, the ribbon 1 is subjected in the vapour humidification unit 42 to a vapour jet at a temperature of approximately 135°C, resulting from saturated vapour at a pressure of approximately 2.5 relative bar.
[0042] In the version shown, the vapour humidification unit 42 comprises a first and a second humidification device, which are designated 43 and 44, respectively, and which are arranged in series over the processing path and have such dimensions that the ribbon 1 has a processing time between 3 and 6 seconds in the first device 43 and between 2 and 5 seconds in the second device 44, respectively.
[0043] At the discharge from the vapour humidification unit 42, the ribbon 1, which is warm and damp, is supplied, also by means of a motorized roller 54, to a first compaction unit 50 in order to be subjected to a process of controlled compaction for the fibres of the ribbon itself.
[0044] The motorized roller 54 is actuated in such a manner that the ribbon 1 is caused to advance at a supply speed V1 through the vapour humidification unit 42 and towards the inlet of the first compaction unit 50.
[0045] The sanforizing plant 6 further comprises a first braking mat 46 which is supported by a roller 45 and which is intended to interact with the ribbon 1 in order to brake it at the inlet of the first compaction unit 50 so as to control the degree of compaction thereof.
[0046] The roller 45 is movable so as to vary the inclination of the braking mat 46 with respect to the inlet of the first compaction unit 50 and the interaction of the braking mat 46 with the ribbon 1.
[0047] Furthermore, the roller 45 can be rotated so as to vary the length of the portion of the first braking mat 46 which is intended to interact with the ribbon 1. In that manner, it is possible to vary the force with which the ribbon 1 is braked at the inlet of the first compaction unit 50 and the curling effect of the fibres of the ribbon 1.
[0048] The first braking mat 46 is produced from Teflon, or another material with a low friction coefficient, so that the ribbon 1 can readily slide thereon. The roller 45 and the first braking mat 46 act as guide elements for the ribbon 1. The roller 45 and the first braking mat 46 act as adjustable braking elements for the ribbon 1 itself in order to vary the curling effect of the fibres of the ribbon 1 at the inlet of the first compaction unit 50.
[0049] The first compaction unit 50 comprises a first pressing roller 51 and a first compaction mat 52 which is wound in a ring-like manner on a plurality of rotatable rollers 53 in the opposite direction to the first pressing roller 51, so as to cooperate therewith in order to move and compact the ribbon 1, which is caused to pass between the first pressing roller 51 and the first compaction mat 52.
[0050] Preferably, the ribbon 1 is supplied to the first compaction unit so that the first face 2 is directed against the first drawing roller 51 and the second face 3 is directed against the first compaction mat 52.
[0051] The first pressing roller 51 is heated to a temperature T2 between 150°C and 200°C, preferably to a temperature T2 of approximately 180°C, and can be rotated at an angular rotation speed so as to produce a peripheral movement speed V2 less than the supply speed V1. The movement speed V2 measured at the external surface of the first pressing roller 51 corresponds to the speed at which the ribbon 1 is driven at the first pressing roller 51 and the speed at which the ribbon 1 is pulled by the first pressing roller 51.
[0052] The movement speed V2 is imposed as a function of the shrinkage of the ribbon 1 which is predetermined by the compaction step and the degree of pressing which has to be applied to the ribbon 1.
[0053] Once the movement speed V2 has been selected, there is also consequently imposed the supply speed V1 in accordance with the degree of shrinkage of the ribbon which it is desirable to obtain, taking care to maintain a correct direction of introduction of the ribbon 1 in the first compaction unit 50 by means of the roller 45 and the first braking mat 46.
[0054] By way of example, the relationship between the movement speed V2 and the supply speed V1 may be between 0.75 and 0.95, for example, of approximately 0.8. The ribbon 1 therefore tends to accumulate at the inlet of the first compaction unit 50, forming wrinkles or curls in the direction of advance F.
[0055] The presence of the first braking mat 46, which is partially interposed between the first pressing roller 51 and the first compaction mat 52 so as to brake the advance of the ribbon 1, serves to control the formation of the wrinkles so that they are homogeneous.
[0056] In particular, the control of the length of the first braking mat 46 between the first pressing roller 51 and the first compaction mat 52 and/or the inclination thereof with respect to the introduction direction of the ribbon 1 in the first compaction unit 50 allows an increase or decrease of the curling effect of the fibres of the ribbon 1.
[0057] At the inlet of the first compaction unit 50, therefore, there is a curled ribbon 1 which is compressed by the first braking mat 46 against the first pressing roller 51 and the fibres of the ribbon 1 are compressed by the joint action of the first compaction mat 52 and the first pressing roller 51.
[0058] Since the ribbon 1 is warm and damp, that compression causes a compaction of the fibres of the ribbon in a curled form, that is to say, a curling of the ribbon 1 in the direction of advance F.
[0059] The first compaction mat 52 is constructed from a material having a high level of resistance to temperature and prevents the relative sliding of the ribbon 1 with respect to the first pressing roller 51.
[0060] During the passage through the first compaction unit 50, there is observed a decrease of the length of the ribbon 1 between 3% and 20%, typically of approximately from 5 to 17%.
[0061] Subsequently, the ribbon 1 is supplied to a second compaction unit 55 by means of a pretensioning roller 47.
[0063] There is further provided between the first compaction unit 50 and the second compaction unit 55, in the sanforizing plant 6, a second braking mat 48 which is supported by a corresponding support roller 49 and which is intended to interact with the ribbon 1 in order to brake it in the region of the inlet of the second compaction unit 55, so as to control the degree of curling thereof and therefore the degree of compaction.
[0064] The second braking mat 48 and the support roller 49 are operatively interposed between the first compaction unit 50 and the second compaction unit 55 and act as guide elements for the ribbon 1 and as controllable braking elements for the ribbon 1 itself in order to vary the curling effect of the fibres of the ribbon 1 at the inlet of the second compaction unit 55.
[0065] The second braking mat 48 is constructed in a similar manner to the first braking mat 46, and therefore will not be described in detail; furthermore, similarly to what has been set out for the roller 45, the support roller 49 is also movable in order to vary the inclination of the second braking mat 48 and/or the length of the portion thereof which is intended to interact with the ribbon 1, the object being to vary the curling effect of the fibres of the ribbon which can be obtained.
[0066] The second compaction unit 55 comprises a second pressing roller 56 and a second compaction mat 58 which is wound in a ring-like manner on a second plurality of rollers 57 which can rotate in the opposite direction to the second pressing roller 56 so as to cooperate therewith in order to move and compact the ribbon 1 in a similar manner to what has been discussed for the first compaction unit 50.
[0067] Preferably, the ribbon 1 is supplied to the second compaction unit 55 in such a manner that the second face 3 is directed against the second pressing roller 56 and the first face 2 is directed against the second compaction mat 58.
[0068] Therefore, the ribbon 1 is supplied to the second compaction unit 55 with opposite orientation with respect to that at the inlet to the first compaction unit 50. This allows processing in a similar manner of both faces 2, 3 of the ribbon 1 and an increase of the elasticity obtained.
[0069] The second pressing roller 56 is heated to a temperature T3 between 150°C and 200°C, preferably to a temperature T3 of approximately 180°C, and is rotatable at an angular rotation speed so as to produce a second peripheral movement speed V3 at which the ribbon 1 is moved and which is less than the movement speed V2.
[0070] The second peripheral movement speed V3 measured at the external surface of the second pressing roller 56 corresponds to the speed at which the ribbon 1 is moved in the region of the second pressing roller 56.
[0071] The second movement speed V3 is selected in accordance with the shrinkage of the ribbon 1 which is provided in the second compaction unit 55.
[0072] For example, the relationship V3/V2 can be between 0.90 and 0.98, for example, approximately 0.95.
[0073] Therefore, the ribbon 1 accumulates at the inlet of the second compaction unit 55, curling in the direction of advance F.
[0074] The second braking mat 48 allows control and adjustment of the curling of the ribbon 1 at the inlet of the second compaction unit 55 and allows the curled ribbon to be compressed against the second compaction mat 58.
[0075] During the movement between the second pressing roller 56 and the second compaction mat 58, the ribbon 1 is further compressed in the curled formation, thereby obtaining the compression of the fibres.
[0076] In that case, since the ribbon 1 is still warm and damp, there is also brought about another compaction of the fibres thereof in the curled state, that is to say, another shortening of the ribbon 1 in the direction of advance F. During the movement through the second compaction unit 55, there is observed another reduction of the length of the ribbon of approximately from 1 to 10%.
[0077] Both in the first compaction unit 50 and in the second compaction unit 55, a warm and damp ribbon is processed.
[0078] The ribbon 1 is therefore moved along the processing path of the ribbon 1 at decreasing speeds so as to produce the curling thereof. By varying the rotation speed of the motorized roller 54, the first pressing roller 51 and the second pressing roller 56, that is to say, by varying the relationship between the speeds V2/V1 and/or V3/V2, it is possible to vary the degree of curling obtained in respect of the ribbon 1.
[0079] Subsequently, the ribbon 1 is supplied to the cooling unit 60, in which it is cooled, for example, by means of forced ventilation with ambient air, in order to fix the fibres of the ribbon in the compacted, curled condition thereof and to make it possible to subsequently pack them.
[0080] Alternatively, the ribbon obtained may be subjected to additional finishing processing operations, where provided.
[0081] The ribbon 1 obtained with the process of the present invention advantageously has a substantial elasticity, in particular greater than the individual elasticity of the fibres which form it.
[0082] In particular, the above-described process allows a ribbon having a first face, preferably the visible face, to be obtained with a prevalence of cotton fibres, having a percentage of elastic extension in a longitudinal direction between 10% and 25%, far greater than the extension of a conventional ribbon of cotton subjected to sanforizing.
[0083] In that case, the ribbon further has all the advantages of a conventional ribbon of cotton, including the optimum touch of the visible face and the adaptability of the item to processing operations involving dyeing in a bath.
[0084] If the first face has a prevalence of warp threads of polyester, the ribbon obtained with the process according to the invention allows an elastic extension between approximately 10% and 15%, that is to say, an extension greater, at least by a few percentage units, than the elastic extension of a ribbon with a prevalence of warp threads of polyester which is constructed with the conventional methods and which is subjected to a conventional sanforizing process.
1. A production process for a ribbon, in particular for items of clothing, comprising
the steps of:
- weaving a ribbon (1) by interlacing at least a first plurality of warp threads which are produced from discontinuous fibre and a second plurality of warp threads which are produced from textured polyamide or textured polyester, with at least one weft thread in accordance with such a weaving scheme that there is produced on a mutually opposing first face (2) and second face (3) of the ribbon (1) a prevalence of threads of the first plurality and the second plurality, respectively,
- subjecting the ribbon to a sanforizing process.
2. A process according to the preceding claim, wherein the first plurality of warp threads
is composed of cotton or polyester.
3. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weaving scheme
has a ratio less than or equal to 1:2.
4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weaving scheme
has a ratio of 1:3.
5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the sanforizing process
comprises a compaction step, in which the ribbon is compacted in a curled configuration
between at least one pressing roller (51, 56) and at least one compaction mat (52,
58), wherein the ribbon (1) is supplied at a speed (V1, V2) greater than the movement
speed (V2, V3) at which movement is brought about between the at least one pressing
roller (51, 56) and the at least one compaction mat (52, 58), so as to cause a curling
of the ribbon at the inlet of the compaction step.
6. A process according to the preceding claim, and comprising advancing the ribbon (1)
at a supply speed (V1) towards a first compaction unit (50) of the compaction step
which is provided with a pressing roller (51) and adjusting the rotation speed of
the pressing roller (51) so that the ribbon (1) is moved by the pressing roller (51)
at a movement speed (V2) less than the supply speed (V1), the movement speed (V2)
being between 0.75 and 0.95 of the supply speed (V1), preferably being approximately
0.8.
7. A process according to the preceding claim, and comprising advancing the ribbon (1)
at the supply speed (V2) towards a second compaction unit (55) of the compaction step
which is provided with a second pressing roller (56) and adjusting the rotation speed
of the second pressing roller (56) so that the ribbon (1) is moved by the second pressing
roller (56) at a second movement speed (V3) less than the movement speed (V2), the
second movement speed (V2) being between 0.90 and 0.98 of the movement speed (V2),
preferably being approximately 0.95.
8. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, and further comprising guiding
the ribbon (1) by means of suitable guide elements (45, 46) towards the compaction
step.
9. A process according to the preceding claim, wherein the ribbon (1) is intended to
interact at the inlet of the compaction step with a braking mat (46, 48) which is
interposed between the at least one pressing roller (51, 56) and the at least one
compaction mat (52, 58), in such a manner that it is braked by the braking mat (46,
48).
10. A process according to the preceding claim, wherein there is provision for the adjustment
of the length of the braking mat (46, 48) interposed between the at least one pressing
roller (51, 56) and the at least one compaction mat (52, 58).
11. A process according to any one of claims 5 to 7, wherein, upstream of the compaction
step, the sanforizing process comprises a humidification step in which the ribbon
(1) is subjected to a vapour jet at a temperature between approximately 110°C and
180°C, preferably between 130°C and 150°C, for a time τ between 4 and 10 seconds,
preferably between 6 and 8 seconds, in order to dampen the ribbon.
12. A ribbon (1) which can be obtained according to the process of any one of the preceding
claims.
13. An item of clothing comprising a ribbon which can be obtained according to the process
of any one of claims 1 to 11.