Technical Field
[0001] The present invention relates, in general, to a lyocell fiber and, more particularly,
to a lyocell crimped fiber.
Background Art
[0002] Fibers are linear objects that are flexible and thin and have a very large ratio
of length to thickness, that is, very large fineness, in terms of shape. Fibers may
be classified into long fibers, quasi-long fibers, and short fibers in terms of morphology,
and into natural fibers and artificial fibers in terms of raw materials.
[0003] From the past, fibers have had a close relationship with human life. Early fibers
were mainly used as raw materials for garments, and were natural fibers such as cotton,
hemp, wool, and silk fibers. However, in accordance with the development of science
and technology since the Industrial Revolution, the use of fibers has been expanded
to industrial materials in addition to materials for coating. Further, the field of
artificial fibers has been newly exploited in order to meet the rapidly growing demand
for fibers according to the cultural development and population growth.
[0004] Artificial fibers have a tactile sensation and wearing sensation that are not inferior
to those of natural fibers, and also have excellent strength and fast moisture absorption
and discharge functions, thus being steadily preferred by consumers. Particularly,
among artificial fibers, regenerated fibers synthesized from natural materials, such
as wood pulp, have a tactile sensation that is almost the same as that of natural
fibers and are considered to be harmless to the human body. Accordingly, interest
in regenerated fibers is gradually increasing.
[0005] Among regenerated fibers, viscose rayon has been extensively used in the past as
a fiber having excellent gloss and colorability, comparable to those of silk. However,
in the case of the viscose rayon, the manufacturing process thereof is somewhat complicated
and many chemicals are used during a process of melting wood pulp. Accordingly, the
environmental problems and wastewater treatment have been continuously at issue. Therefore,
regenerated fibers such as rayon-based regenerated fibers and cellulose acetate, which
may replace conventional viscose rayon fibers such as cupra-rayon and lyocell, have
begun to receive attention.
[0006] Particularly, lyocell fibers manufactured using natural pulp and amine oxide hydrates
have excellent tensile properties and tactile sensation compared to conventional regenerated
fibers, and amine oxide-based solvents used in the manufacture of the lyocell fibers
may be recycled and biodegradable when discarded, and thus do not generate any pollutants
during a manufacturing process. Accordingly, research on lyocell fibers, which serve
as eco-friendly regenerated fibers, has been more actively conducted in recent years.
[0007] In a method of manufacturing a lyocell fiber described in, for example,
U.S. Patent Nos. 4,416,698 and
4,246,221, a spinning dope containing cellulose dissolved in amine oxide (NMMO) is spun and
solidified to manufacture a filament, and the filament is washed, dried, and processed.
Further, the lyocell fibers are not naturally crimped. Accordingly, in order to beneficially
use the lyocell fibers, wet fibers may be compressed according to the method described
in
EP No. 797,696, or crimping may be provided through a stuffer-box crimping process using dry steam
according to the method described in
EP No. 703,997.
[0008] In the case of conventional lyocell fibers, a blooming property obtained due to the
formation of the crimps is not excellent. In addition, most research on lyocell fibers
has only been made to improve the physical properties, for example, strength. Accordingly,
there is a steady demand for technical research that effectively improves the blooming
property of the lyocell fibers.
Disclosure
Technical Problem
[0009] Accordingly, the present invention has been made keeping in mind the above problems
occurring in the related art, and an object of the present invention is to provide
a lyocell crimped fiber having an excellent crimp number and crimp stability, thus
improving a blooming property.
Technical Solution
[0010] In order to accomplish the above object, the present invention provides a lyocell
crimped fiber manufactured by crimping a lyocell multi-filament, the lyocell multi-filament
being manufactured by spinning a lyocell spinning dope containing a cellulose pulp
and an N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) aqueous solution, the lyocell crimped fiber
having a blooming index of 800 to 2,000, which is defined by the following Equation
1.

[0011] In Equation 1, the blooming factor is defined by the following Equation 2.

[0012] In an embodiment, the lyocell spinning dope may include 6 to 16 wt% of the cellulose
pulp and 84 to 94 wt% of the N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide aqueous solution based on
the total weight of the spinning dope.
[0013] The cellulose pulp may have an alpha-cellulose content of 85 to 97 wt% based on the
total weight of the pulp, and may have a degree of polymerization (DPw) of 600 to
1700.
[0014] In the embodiment, the crimp number (CN) per inch may be 25 to 39/inch and the blooming
factor (BF) defined by Equation 2 may be 30 to 50 in the lyocell crimped fiber.
[0015] In the embodiment, the lyocell multi-filament may include lyocell mono-filaments
having a tensile strength of 2.0 to 3.5 g/d.
[0016] The lyocell mono-filaments may have a fineness of 1.0 to 8.0 denier and a ductility
of 5 to 13%.
Advantageous Effects
[0017] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a lyocell crimped fiber
having an improved blooming property. The lyocell crimped fiber according to the present
invention has an improved volume effect and excellent shape stability of crimps compared
to a conventional lyocell fiber. Therefore, it is possible to expect physical properties
equal to or better than those of the prior art even using a small amount of fiber
when the lyocell crimped fiber is applied to clothing and industrial materials.
Best Mode
[0018] An aspect of the present invention may provide a lyocell crimped fiber manufactured
by crimping a lyocell multi-filament. The lyocell multi-filament is manufactured by
spinning a lyocell spinning dope containing a cellulose pulp and an N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide
(NMMO) aqueous solution. The lyocell crimped fiber has a blooming index of 800 to
2,000, which is defined by the following Equation 1.

[0019] In Equation 1, the blooming factor is defined by the following Equation 2.

[Blooming factor and blooming index]
[0020] Generally, crimping refers to a process for forming a crimp in a filament, in other
words, a crimping process, and also to a process for forming a wrinkle in order to
impart a natural fiber-like texture to artificial fibers manufactured by performing
artificial spinning to obtain a fiber form. Since a space in which air may be present
is formed between bundles of crimped fibers, a larger volume may be ensured even with
the same weight, thereby providing a soft feeling and warmth. Further, air permeability
may be ensured, thereby exhibiting an antibacterial effect. Further, when the material
of the fiber is an eco-friendly biodegradable material, like the lyocell of the present
invention, the effect of crimping may be doubled.
[0021] Accordingly, the crimped lyocell fiber may be used as a fiber material such as a
winter garment, including an outdoor garment, innerwear, a hat, a sports sock, and
underwear, a duvet, a medical fiber, and a sanitary article. The crimped lyocell fiber
may also be used for an MRG (mechanical rubber good) such as a tire cord, various
filters, and a hose reinforcement, a cement reinforcement, and vehicle interior reinforcements
as industrial materials in the construction and vehicle fields.
[0022] In the present invention, a blooming index defined by Equation 1 is a value depending
on the number of crimps formed per inch in the lyocell fiber and a blooming factor,
which is a ratio of the change in width before/after the permanent deformation to
the change in length before/after the permanent deformation. The greater the blooming
index value, the greater the blooming factor or the crimp number per inch. Therefore,
the degree of blooming of the lyocell fiber may be easily checked using the blooming
index. When the blooming index is less than 800, it is difficult to sufficiently satisfy
both the desired crimp number and blooming factor. When the blooming index is more
than 2000, there may be a technical limit. Accordingly, it is preferable that the
blooming index satisfy the above-described range.
[0023] In order to satisfy the above-described range of the blooming index in the present
invention, the blooming factor, which is defined as the percentage value of the change
in width of the fiber before/after permanent deformation to the change in length of
the fiber before/after permanent deformation, as shown in Equation 2, is more preferably
set to satisfy the range of 30 to 50, and the measured number of crimps (CN) per inch
is preferably set to satisfy the range of 25 to 39/inch.
[0024] The term "permanent deformation" as used in the present invention means deformation
at a time point at which the crimp is not returned to its original shape when the
crimped fiber is pulled and then released. In the experiment of the present invention,
the lyocell crimped fiber exhibited behavior of permanent deformation when a load
is 4 kg.f. Accordingly, in the present invention, the tension at a load of 4 kg.f
may be set as a reference for permanent deformation.
[0025] In the case of the preferably crimped fiber, since the crimp number per inch is sufficiently
high, the degree of blooming of the fiber is favorable due to the crimping before
permanent deformation, but after permanent deformation, the degree of blooming is
significantly reduced, and accordingly, the change in width of the fiber is observed
to be very large. On the other hand, in the case of the poorly crimped fiber, there
is little difference in the degree of blooming caused by the crimp before and after
the permanent deformation. As described above, as the blooming factor is increased,
the blooming property may be improved due to the sufficient number of crimps, and
thus a satisfactory blooming index value may be obtained.
[0026] However, since the crimp number per inch and the blooming factor are not conceptually
in inverse proportion to each other, the blooming factor may be 30 or more, considering
the minimum crimp number to be ensured (25/inch). Since the crimp number cannot be
increased indefinitely, it may be undesirable for the blooming factor to be more than
50.
[0027] Meanwhile, the lyocell crimped fiber having the blooming property according to the
present invention may be manufactured through the following steps (S1) to (S5).
[Step (S1)]
[0028] During the step (S1), the lyocell spinning dope containing the cellulose pulp and
the N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) aqueous solution is spun. According to a preferable
aspect of the present invention, the lyocell spinning dope may contain 6 to 16 wt%
of the cellulose pulp and 84 to 94 wt% of the N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide aqueous solution.
The cellulose pulp may have an alpha-cellulose content of 85 to 97 wt% and a degree
of polymerization (DPw) of 600 to 1700.
[0029] When the content of the cellulose pulp is less than 6 wt%, it may be difficult to
realize a fibrous structure and characteristic, and when the content of the cellulose
pulp is more than 16 wt%, it may be difficult to dissolve the cellulose pulp in the
aqueous solution, and the tensile strength may be unnecessarily increased. Further,
when the content of the N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide aqueous solution is less than 84
wt%, it is disadvantageous in that a dissolution viscosity may be greatly increased.
When the content of the N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide aqueous solution is more than 94
wt%, spinning viscosity may be greatly reduced, which makes the manufacture of the
homogeneous fiber difficult during the spinning step.
[0030] Further, the step of discharging the spinning dope from a spinneret may be performed
at a spinning temperature of 80 to 130°C. The spinneret serves to discharge the spinning
dope on the filament into a solidifying solution in a solidifying bath through an
air gap section. When the temperature deviates from the above-described spinning temperature
range, the flowability of the spinning dope may be poor or the viscosity of the spinning
dope may be reduced, and accordingly, it may be difficult to control a discharged
amount.
[Step (S2)]
[0031] During the step (S2), the lyocell spinning dope spun during the step (S1) is solidified
to obtain the lyocell multi-filament. The solidification of the step (S2) may include
a primary solidifying step of supplying cooling air to the spinning dope to solidify
the spinning dope using air quenching (Q/A), and a secondary solidifying step of adding
the primarily solidified spinning dope to the solidifying solution to solidify the
spinning dope.
[0032] During the step (S1), after the spinning dope is discharged through the spinneret,
the spinning dope may be passed through the air gap section, which is a space between
the spinneret and the solidifying bath. In the air gap section, cooling air is supplied
from an air cooling section located inside the doughnut-shaped spinneret to the outside
of the spinneret. The primary solidification may be performed using air quenching
for supplying the cooling air to the spinning dope.
[0033] The factor affecting the physical properties of the lyocell multi-filament obtained
during the step (S2) includes the temperature and the wind speed of the cooling air
in the air gap section. Cooling air at a temperature of 4 to 15°C and a wind speed
of 5 to 50 m/s may be supplied to the spinning dope, thereby performing the solidification
of the step (S2). When the temperature of the cooling air is less than 4°C during
the primary solidification, the surface of the spinneret is quickly cooled and the
lyocell multi-filament is heterogeneously solidified, resulting in poor spinning processability.
When the temperature of the cooling air is more than 15°C, primary solidification
using the cooling air is insufficiently performed, which may negatively affect spinning
processability.
[0034] Further, when the wind speed of the cooling air is less than 5 m/s during primary
solidification, since primary solidification using the cooling air is insufficiently
performed, spinning processability is reduced, thus causing yarn cutting. When the
wind speed is more than 50 m/s, the spinning dope discharged from the spinneret may
be shaken by air, thus reducing spinning processability.
[0035] After the primary solidification using air quenching, the spinning dope may be supplied
to the solidifying bath containing the solidifying solution to thus perform the secondary
solidification. In order to appropriately perform secondary solidification, the temperature
of the solidifying solution is preferably 30°C or lower. Since the solidification
temperature is not excessively high, the solidification rate may be appropriately
controlled. The solidifying solution is not particularly limited, as long as it is
manufactured so as to have a typical composition in the technical field to which the
present invention belongs.
[Step (S3)]
[0036] During the step (S3), the lyocell multi-filament obtained during the step (S2) is
washed with water. Specifically, the lyocell multi-filament obtained during the step
(S2) may be introduced into a traction roller and then added into a washing bath to
be washed with water. During the step of washing the filament, a washing solution
at a temperature of 0 to 100°C may be used in consideration of ease of recovery and
reuse of the solvent after washing with water. Water may be used as the washing solution,
and if necessary, other additive components may be further included.
[Step (S4)]
[0037] During the step (S4), the lyocell multi-filament washed with water during the step
(S3) is treated with an emulsion, and it is preferable to perform drying after the
emulsion treatment. The emulsion treatment may be performed in such way that the multi-filament
is completely immersed in the emulsion, and the amount of the emulsion applied on
the filament is maintained using squeezing rollers attached to an entry roll and a
discharge roll of an emulsion treatment device. The emulsion contributes to reducing
the friction that occurs when the filaments come into contact with a drying roller
and a guide during a crimping step, so that the crimp may be formed well.
[0038] According to the preferable aspect of the present invention, the strength of the
lyocell mono-filament constituting the lyocell multi-filament manufactured through
the steps (S1) to (S4) is preferably 2.0 to 3.5 g/d. The mono-filament refers to a
single filament separated from the multi-filament that is discharged through a plurality
of holes in the spinneret, solidified, washed with water, and treated with the emulsion,
thus being made fibrous. The strength of the mono-filament may mean the strength of
a single filament separated from the fibrous multi-filament.
[0039] Generally, the crimped fiber has improved physical properties such as a tactile sensation,
bulkiness, warmth, and absorbency. Accordingly, a predetermined strength needs to
be ensured, but it is unnecessary to excessively increase the strength. In other words,
when the strength of the lyocell mono-filament is less than 2.0 g/d, the spinning
processability may be reduced. When the strength of the lyocell mono-filament is more
than 3.5 g/d, a very high load must be applied in order to cause blooming through
carding after the crimp is formed, which negatively affects process efficiency.
[0040] Further, it is preferable for the lyocell mono-filament to have a fineness of 1.0
to 8.0 de in consideration of the blooming property. When the fineness of the mono-filament
is less than 1.0 de (denier), twisting may occur between the adjacent mono-filaments
during carding after the crimps are formed, thus reducing a carding rate. When the
fineness of the mono-filament is more than 8.0 de, a lot of steam and pressure must
be provided in order to increase the crimp number, which negatively affects energy
efficiency, and the weight of the final product may be relatively increased even when
the degree of blooming is not changed.
[0041] Moreover, the ductility of the lyocell mono-filament may be 5 to 13%. When the ductility
is less than 5%, the fiber may be easily broken during carding after the crimps are
formed, thus reducing the yield. Due to the characteristic of the process, it is difficult
to perform control so that the ductility of the mono-filament exceeds 13%, and it
is also unnecessary to satisfy ductility that is more than 13%, considering the application
field of the crimped fiber.
[Step (S5)]
[0042] During the step (S5) of the present invention, the lyocell multi-filament treated
with the emulsion during the step (S4) is crimped. The blooming property of the lyocell
crimped fiber of the present invention may be determined during the step (S5), and
the crimps may be formed by applying steam to the lyocell multi-filament and applying
pressure thereto. The specific crimping means is a stuffer box, which may be a means
including a steam box and a press roller.
[0043] In the specific crimping method, preferably, the lyocell multi-filament is passed
through the steam box to provide steam under 0.1 to 1.0 kgf/cm
2, thereby being heated. When the amount of steam supplied into the steam box is less
than 0.1 kgf/cm
2, the press roller may not smoothly form the crimps, or even if the crimps are formed,
the structural shape including the crimps may not be maintained because heat setting
is not performed. When the amount is more than 1.0 kgf/cm
2, the temperature in the stuffer box rises to 120°C or higher, whereby the filaments
stick to each other, so that the filaments cannot pass through the stuffer box.
[0044] After passing through the steam box, the lyocell multi-filament may be supplied to
the press roller and then pressed under a pressure of 1.5 to 2.0 kgf/cm
2, thereby forming the crimp. When the pressure applied by the press roller is less
than 1.5 kgf/cm
2, the desired crimp number is not obtained. When the pressure is more than 2.0 kgf/cm
2, the pressing force is too strong to pass the filaments through the stuffer box.
[0045] In the present invention, the number of crimps formed while passing through the stuffer
box is very important. The crimp number is preferably 25 to 39/inch. When the crimp
number is less than 25/inch, since it is not easy to perform carding, the blooming
factor defined by Equation 1 is less than 30, and accordingly, the blooming characteristics
in a width direction may be poor. Further, even if the pressure of the press roller
is increased, there is a limit in increase of the crimp number to 39/inch or more.
Mode for Invention
[0046] A better understanding of the present invention may be obtained through the following
Examples which are set forth to illustrate, but are not to be construed to limit the
present invention.
Preparation Example 1
[0047] A cellulose pulp having a degree of polymerization (DPw) of 820 and an alpha-cellulose
content of 93.9% was mixed with an NMMO/H
2O mixed solvent (weight ratio of 90/10) having a propylate content of 0.01 wt% to
manufacture 12 wt% of a spinning dope for producing a lyocell fiber.
[0048] First, the spinning dope was maintained at a spinning temperature of 110°C in a spinning
nozzle of a spinneret, and was spun while adjusting the discharge amount and the spinning
speed of the spinning dope so that the single fineness of filaments was 3.37 denier.
The filament shaped spinning dope discharged from the spinning nozzle was added to
a solidifying solution in a solidifying bath through an air gap section. The spinning
dope was primarily solidified in the air gap section using cooled air at a temperature
of 8°C and a wind speed of 10 m/s.
[0049] The solidifying solution included 85 wt% of water and 15 wt% of NMMO at 25°C. The
concentration of the solidifying solution was continuously monitored using a sensor
and a refractometer. The filament drawn in an air layer using a traction roller was
washed with a washing solution sprayed in a washing device, thus removing the remaining
NMMO and uniformly applying an emulsion on the filament. The resulting filament was
then squeezed so that the filament had an emulsion content of 0.2%, and was dried
using a drying roller at 150°C, thus manufacturing a lyocell filament.
[0050] The manufactured lyocell multi-filament was passed through a stuffer box (press roller
pressure of 1.5 kgf/cm
2) without separate steam treatment so that crimping was provided using only the press
roller, thereby manufacturing a final lyocell crimped fiber.
[0051] The manufactured lyocell crimped fiber was cut to a length of 200 mm in a tension-free
state, and was then fixed at a first point (0 mm position) and a middle point (100
mm position). In addition, tensile force was applied at a position of 200 mm to thus
increase the length by 50% (50 mm), and the end point was fixed at the stretched position.
Subsequently, the fixation at the position of 100 mm was loosened to divide the tension,
and microscopic photographs were taken in order to obtain a crimp number (CN) per
10 mm. The crimp number (CN) was converted into CPI (counts per inch), and the crimp
number of preparation Example 1 was 7 (ea/inch) when measured.
Preparation Examples 2 to 6
[0052] The lyocell crimped fiber was manufactured using the same method as in Preparation
Example 1, except that the pressure of the press roller was changed, thereby obtaining
Preparation Examples 2 to 6 having crimp numbers of 15 (ea/inch), 20 (ea/inch), 25
(ea/inch), 30 (ea/inch), and 39 (ea/inch). However, the crimp number was not increased
any further even when the pressure of the press roller was changed to 39 ea/inch or
more. Accordingly, in the Preparation Examples, the crimp number was varied up to
39 ea/inch.
Examples 1 to 3
[0053] The same method as in Preparation Examples 4 to 6 was applied to manufacture lyocell
crimped fibers (Examples 1 to 3) having crimp numbers of 25 (ea/inch), 30 (ea/inch),
and 39 (ea/inch), except that steam (120°C) under a pressure of 1.0 kgf/cm
2 was provided using a steam box in order to heat-set a lyocell fiber before the lyocell
fiber were passed through press rollers in a stuffer box.
Comparative Examples 1 to 3
[0054] The same method as in Preparation Examples 1 to 3 was applied to manufacture lyocell
crimped fibers (Comparative Examples 1 to 3) having crimp numbers of 7 (ea/inch),
15 (ea/inch), and 20 (ea/inch), except that steam treatment was performed in a stuffer
box as in Examples 1 to 3.
Measurement Example
[0055] Each of Preparation Examples 1 to 6, Examples 1 to 3, and Comparative Examples 1
to 3 was left under conditions of constant temperature and humidity (temperature:
22°C and humidity: 55%) for 48 hours. A tensile strength test was then performed using
a UTM (universal testing machine, INSTRON, model name: 5566, test mode: tension test).
As a result of the tensile strength test, when a load was 4 kgf, permanent deformation
of the crimped fiber began to appear. The length (I.length) and the width (I.width)
of the sample before the tensile strength test and the length (A.length) and the width
(A.width) of the permanently deformed sample after the tensile strength test were
substituted into the following Calculation Equation 1, thereby calculating a blooming
factor (BF).

[0056] In Calculation Equation 1, the change ΔL in length of the fiber before and after
the permanent deformation is |(A. length) - (I. length)|, and the change ΔW in width
of the fiber before and after the permanent deformation is |(A.width) - (I.width)|.
[0057] Further, as shown in the following Calculation Equation 2, the crimp number of each
of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was multiplied by the measured
blooming factor to obtain a blooming index, and the obtained values are described
in the following Table 1.
[0058] Calculation Equation 2) Blooming index = blooming factor (BF) X crimp number per
inch (CN)
[Table 1]
| Sample |
Heat setting treatment |
Cr. No. (CN) |
ΔL1) |
ΔW2) |
Blooming factor |
Blooming index (BFxCN) |
| Preparation Example 1 |
X |
7 |
80 |
4 |
5.0 |
35.0 |
| Preparation Example 2 |
X |
15 |
77 |
5 |
6.5 |
97.5 |
| Preparation Example 3 |
X |
20 |
76 |
7 |
9.2 |
184.0 |
| Preparation Example 4 |
X |
25 |
70 |
10 |
14.3 |
357.5 |
| Preparation Example 5 |
X |
30 |
68 |
10 |
14.7 |
441.0 |
| Preparation Example 6 |
X |
39 |
65 |
10 |
15.4 |
600.6 |
| Comparative Example 1 |
○ |
7 |
78 |
4 |
5.1 |
35.7 |
| Comparative Example 2 |
○ |
15 |
73 |
5 |
6.8 |
102.0 |
| Comparative Example 3 |
○ |
20 |
65 |
7 |
10.7 |
214.0 |
| Example 1 |
○ |
25 |
62 |
22 |
35.4 |
885.0 |
| Example 2 |
○ |
30 |
60 |
24 |
40.0 |
1,200.0 |
| Example 3 |
○ |
39 |
58 |
27 |
46.5 |
1,813.5 |
1) ΔL: Change in length of fiber before and after permanent deformation
2) ΔW: Change in width of fiber before and after permanent deformation |
[0059] From comparison of the results of the blooming factor and the blooming index in Table
1, it could be confirmed that the blooming factor and the blooming index were remarkably
increased when the crimp number per inch was 25 or more. Particularly, when heat setting
was performed, the blooming index was increased to 800 or more, and accordingly, the
lyocell crimped fiber exhibited an excellent blooming property.
[0060] Particularly, even when the crimp number was 25 or more, if heat setting was not
performed, the blooming factor did not approach 30, whereby the blooming index did
not increase any further. Even if heat setting was performed, when the crimp number
was less than 25, it was difficult to secure both a high blooming factor and a high
blooming index.