The present invention relates to a process for treating hair fibres.
It is known to smooth hair fibres with smoothing irons. These irons make it possible to obtain smoothing of keratin fibres at high temperature. However, in order to obtain a good smooth appearance, it is necessary to carry out several passes of the iron, which considerably extends the hair fibre treatment time. Furthermore, the repeated application of the flat smoothing irons can sometimes cause damage to the hair fibres due to the operating temperature of the smoothing iron.
A device which makes it possible to apply a cosmetic product to the hair, to expose the latter to steam, to subject said hair to heat treatment and to comb it is known from international application
There is a need to develop a novel process for treating human keratin fibres which makes it possible to fully benefit from the properties of the cosmetic product applied and which is easy and rapid to carry out.
The invention aims to meet this need, which is met by providing according to a first aspect a process for treating hair fibres according to claim 1.
Carrying out the combing before the application of the product makes it possible to facilitate the penetration of the hair product into the treated lock.
In addition, this makes the treatment of the hair fibres easier by facilitating the movement of the tool(s) carrying out the process along the hair fibres, in particular by decreasing the force which the user must exert in order to deposit a predetermined amount of product.
The term "hair fibres" denotes human keratin fibres such as the hair or synthetic fibres known as "extensions" which are added to an individual's head of hair by various means, in particular by adhesive bonding, this being in order for example to modify the appearance of an individual's natural head of hair.
All the steps of the process are carried out using a single tool, in particular using a device for shaping the head of hair configured to carry out the various steps successively in the same portion of hair fibres. Preferably, the steps of the process are carried out by moving the tool(s) along a lock of hair fibres.
The process of the invention makes it possible to improve the smoothing of the hair, in particular to decrease the hair volume.
The steps are carried out successively in the following order: - (i), (ii), (iii) then (iv).
Preferably, steps (i) and (ii) are carried out, for example, during the same session at the hairdresser, with a period between them of less than or equal to 5 min, better still less than or equal to 1 min, even better still less than or equal to 30 s, preferentially less than or equal to 15 s, and more preferentially less than or equal to 5 s.
Preferably, all the successive steps are carried out with a period between them of less than or equal to 5 min, better still less than or equal to 1 min, even better still less than or equal to 30 s, preferentially less than or equal to 15 s.
The process comprises a single combing step. The fact that there is only one combing step makes it possible to simplify the process without the efficiency of the treatment being affected thereby.
Step (iv) is carried out after step (ii), in particular less than 5 min, better still less than 1 min, after step (ii), even better still less than 30 s, preferentially less than 15 s, after step (ii).
Step (iii) is carried out after step (ii) and before step (iv), in particular less than 5 min, better still less than 1 min, even better still less than 30 s, preferentially less than 15 s, before step (iii) and after step (ii).
The heat treatment can be carried out by contact of the hair fibres with hot surfaces, in particular hot surfaces applying to the hair a tension that makes it possible for example to smooth, style or disentangle the hair fibres.
The heat treatment can be carried out at a temperature greater than or equal to 90°C, preferably greater than or equal to 120°C, more preferably greater than or equal to 140°C, even more preferably greater than or equal to 170°C, and/or less than 230°C, preferably less than 220°C, more preferably less than 210°C; the hot surfaces are preferably brought to such temperatures.
The amount of steam applied during step (iii) is greater than or equal to 1 g/min, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5 g/min and less than or equal to 10 g/min, more preferably less than or equal to 6 g/min, and even more preferably less than or equal to 4.5 g/min. The steam applied to the hair fibres during step (iii) may contain one or more cosmetic ingredients and/or active agents such as a fragrance, and/or a hair shaping and/or conditioning active agent. alkaline agents, volatile or non-volatile silicones, reactive or chemically inert polymers, pigments, solid organic or inorganic particles, vitamins, plant extracts, or propenetrating agents or fibre-swelling agents.
The composition applied to the hair fibres is preferably in the fluid state during the application.
The composition may be aqueous or anhydrous.
The composition may comprise at least one ingredient chosen from solvents, surfactants, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, dye precursors, direct dyes, silicone or non-silicone and fixing or non-fixing polymers, fatty substances, in particular mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, and waxes, reducing agents, oxidizing agents, UV screening agents, conditioning agents, agents for combating free radicals, sequestering or stabilizing agents, antioxidants, acidifying agents, alkaline agents, volatile or non-volatile silicones, reactive or chemically inert polymers, pigments, solid organic or inorganic particles, vitamins, plant extracts, or propenetrating agents or fibre-swelling agents.
Preferably, the composition is a hair fibre care composition.
The step of applying the composition can be followed or preceded by rinsing, by a step of washing the fibres, by a step of hair shaping or controlling the shape, for example using a fixing gel, a hair shaping mousse, a lacquer or a leave-in conditioner in cream form, by a step of permanent, semi-permanent or temporary dyeing, by a step of permanent deformation using a reducing agent and optionally a fixative, by a step of alkaline straightening, in particular with sodium hydroxide or with guanidine carbonate.
According to a second aspect, which is not part of the present invention, there is disclosed a a process for treating hair fibres, comprising:
The process may comprise a step (iii) of treating the hair fibres by applying steam.
The characteristics described in relation to the process according to the invention also apply to the process according to the second aspect, which does not form part of the invention.
The invention will be better understood from reading the following detailed description of non-limiting exemplary embodiments thereof and from examining the appended drawing, in which:
Only the examples which make use of a single tool and which follow the steps of the process according to the order given in claim 1 belong to the invention, the other examples are disclosed only for information.
In the example illustrated in
Step 10 is a step of combing the hair, making it possible to separate the hair fibres, before applying a composition in step 12. The application of the composition 12 is carried out immediately after step 10. The hair fibres are then subjected to a steam treatment 14 which is carried out immediately after step 12. Finally, the hair fibres are subjected to a heat treatment 16 intended to smooth them. They are brought into contact with hot plates, in particular each arranged on one arm of the device, between which they are held tight.
The application of composition 12 can be carried out using an applying member placed on one of the arms and which holds the portion of hair fibres undergoing treatment tight against a counter-bearing surface of the other arm.
A first device suitable for the treatment is used on locks of natural hair of Caucasian type, having type IV curliness.
These locks are combed by passing through a comb and then the haircare composition A, the formulation of which is given in Table 1, is applied to said locks, by pinching the locks between an applying member and a counter-bearing surface.
The locks are then subjected to steam with a flow rate of approximately 3.5 g/min, then the locks are pinched between two plates of the device, heated to a temperature of 200°C.
In parallel, a second device is used on locks of hair of the same type as previously. This device makes it possible to carry out the same steps as previously, but the combing step is carried out after the application of the product.
For these two treatments, the time periods between the various steps are approximately the same and the locks of hair are from the same batch.
The combing force is measured using a tensile testing machine, in particular a Lloyd LS1® with a 50 N sensor, by measuring the mechanical strength of the device by passing over a lock of hair. The results are given in Table 2 and in
It is noted, on the graph of
Carrying out the combing step before the applying step facilitates the movement of the device along the lock of hair while preserving good composition application.
A first device suitable for the treatment according to the invention is used on a lock of natural hair of Caucasian type, having type IV curliness.
The lock is combed by passing through a comb and then composition A is applied to the lock by pinching the latter between an applying member and a counter-bearing surface. The lock is then subjected to steam with a flow rate of approximately 3.5 g/min, and then it is pinched between two plates heated to a temperature of 200°C. The above treatment is carried out by passing the device along the lock of hair for a period of 15 s.
In parallel, a second device is used on a lock of hair of the same type as previously. This second device makes it possible to carry out the same steps as previously, but the combing step is carried out after the application of the composition. The treatment time is the same.
For these two devices, the time periods between the various steps are approximately identical.
Finally, a commercial smoothing device, in this case a Styler® ghd gold classic, is used on a lock of hair of the same type as previously. This smoothing device does not comprise any combing means and means for applying the composition. It is passed along the lock of hair 3 times, each pass lasting 8 s.
The locks of hair used for these various treatments are from the same batch.
It is noted that, when the combing step is carried out upstream of the applying step, better smoothing is obtained. The hair fibres are straighter and as a result exhibit better alignment with one another. The hair fibres also occupy a smaller volume.
A first treatment is carried out on a lock of natural hair of Caucasian type, having type IV curliness.
In a first applying step, a first device is used. The device makes it possible to comb the lock by passing through a comb, then to apply composition A to said lock by pinching between an applying member and a counter-bearing surface. The first device performs two passes lasting 15 s over the lock of hair.
In a second smoothing step, the lock of hair passes through a commercial smoothing device, in this case the Styler® ghd gold classic previously used. This smoothing device makes it possible to pinch the lock of hair between two plates heated to a temperature of 190°C. It is passed along the lock of hair twice, each pass lasting 15 s.
In parallel, a second treatment is carried out on a lock of hair of the same type as previously. The second treatment is identical to the first, except that the applying step is carried out with a second device. The latter makes it possible to carry out the same steps as previously, but the combing step is carried out after the application of the composition. The treatment time and the number of passes over the lock of hair are the same.
For the two treatments, the time periods between the various steps are approximately identical.
The combing force as a function of the amount of product applied is determined by measuring the resistance of each device to the passing over a lock of hair using a tensile testing machine, in particular a Lloyd LS1® with a 50 N sensor. The measurements are taken for each applying and smoothing step.
The measurements are taken on three different locks of hair of the abovementioned type.
The results are presented in
It is noted, on the graph of
Carrying out the combing step before the applying step facilitates the movement of the devices along the lock of hair while preserving good composition application.
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