CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] The disclosure of Japanese Patent Application No.
2017-166890 filed on August 31, 2017, including the specification, drawings, and abstract is incorporated herein by reference
in its entirety.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
Field of the Invention
[0002] The present invention concerns a tailored jacket and a manufacturing method thereof
and, particularly it relates to a tailored jacket which can be worn reversibly and
a manufacturing method thereof.
Description of the Related Art
[0003] Reversibly tailored clothes that can be turned inside out and worn with either side
of the front and rear surfaces have been known so far. In most of those clothes, a
surface fabric and a rear face fabric are overlaid and stitched together (for example,
refer to
JP2006-200053A).
[0004] Regarding such reversibly tailored clothes, either side of front and rear surfaces
may be used depending on the use while varying the design and the color of both of
the surfaces.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0005] However, those reversibly tailored clothes made of two overlaid fabrics, or reversibly
tailored clothes made of one fabric which can be used with either of both front and
rear surfaces as an outer surface are not suitable for stiffly tailored jackets which
are worn smartly such as tailored jackets.
[0006] The tailored jacket is a jacket designed to have a collar and is a well-tailored
coat, the tailored jacket is put on alone or together with other items and the like
unlike a suit or a blouson.
[0007] Upon selection of the tailored jacket, most important features are good fit and feeling
of silhouette, and it is important to match the size of the tailored jacket and that
of a user's shoulder as being said that "a user wears a jacket focusing on a shoulder
in a good fit".
[0008] Tailored jackets have various designs, and recently those having a silhouette tightly
fitting a user's shoulder are predominant. Specifically, there is a tendency that
a tailored jacket tightly fitting a user's body without causing creases on the back
are preferred. Thus, the good fit and feeling of silhouette are important got users
to wear a tailored jacket smartly.
[0009] However, when those tailored jackets focusing on the good fit and feeling of silhouette
are made such that they can be worn reversibly, various problems are posed as described
below.
[0010] Specifically, in a case of making a reversibly tailored jacket by overlaying a surface
fabric and a rear face fabric, when the tailored jacket is worn with one surface being
as an outer side, another surface is a rear side. Since a surface area of the rear
side is smaller than that of the surface side, an excessive fabric causes creases
or deformation.
[0011] Therefore, when the jacket is worn with another surface as the outer side, the resulted
creases are revealed on the outer side, therefore, the revealed creases cause degradation
of the good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important when the tailored jacket
is worn smartly.
[0012] The creases of the reversible clothes due to the two overlaid fabrics are not annoying
in the case of work clothes or exercise clothes. However, in the case of a anesthetically
tailored jacket focusing on good fit more, the creases degrade the good fit, and even
if reversible specifications with versatile designs could be realized, wearers could
not have smartly worn a tailored jacket on which creases are revealed.
[0013] Since the reversibly tailored jacket is made by overlaying a surface fabric and a
rear face fabric, this poses a problem that the surface fabric and the rear face fabric
are misaligned when the tailored jacket is worn. Therefore, the fabric on the inner
side fits the body of a wearer but the fabric on the outer side is deviated from the
fabric on the inner side, making it difficult to provide a good fit which is important
when the tailored jacket is worn smartly.
[0014] Besides, when a reversibly tailored jacket is made by overlaying a surface fabric
and a rear face fabric, a seam allowance is formed on one surface when stitching the
fabric and fabric together, thus posing a problem that the seam allowance gives feeling
of discomfort or lowering of aesthetic sense when the jacket is worn.
[0015] When cut fabrics are stitched together, an excessive fabric by so much as stitching
is necessary. While the fabrics are stitched with each other by overlapping and stitching
the excess fabrics, a seam allowance is generated between the stitches and the cut
surface.
[0016] In a state where the seam allowance is left, when the jacket is worn with the surface
having no seam allowance as the outer side, the seam allowance is left on the rear
face, leading to occurrence of discomfort when a tailored jacket focusing on good
fit is worn. Alternatively, when it is worn with the surface having no the seam allowance
on the inner side, although the discomfort generated when the jacket is worn is lowered,
a problem that an aesthetic sense is degraded is posed since the seam allowance appears
on the surface.
[0017] A method of inwardly folding the seam allowance which worsens the aesthetic sense
thereby anesthetically treating the seam allowance is considered. However, when the
seam allowance is folded inwardly, the folded portions are overlapped to increase
the thickness, causing discomfort to a wearer of the tailored jacket focusing on the
good fit.
[0018] Besides, when the seam allowance is folded and treated anesthetically, a foldable
fabric should be used. That is, unless a flexible fabric is used, the seam allowance
cannot be treated anesthetically. However, this makes it difficult for a user to wear
the tailored jacket smartly without creases.
[0019] Thus, it has been extremely difficult to make a reversibly tailored jacket which
can be worn with either of the front and rear surfaces as the outer side while turning
them inside out smartly without impairing good fit or feeling of silhouette.
[0020] The present invention has been made in view of the above, and an object thereof is
to provide a reversibly tailored jacket without suppressing good fit and feeling of
silhouette which are important when a user wears the tailored jacket smartly, and
a method of manufacturing thereof.
[0021] In order to solve the above-mentioned problem, the present invention intends to provide
a reversibly wearable tailored jacket including a double-faced fabric having ornamental
surfaces on both front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of a circular knitted
woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting the fabric comprising:
a cut out surface and
a stitched portion in which the cut out surfaces are stitched together in parallel.
[0022] With such a configuration, in the cut surface, the double-faced fabric having ornamental
front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of a circular knitted woolen textile compressed
in a cloth-like configuration by felting is cut, and the cut surfaces are stitched
in parallel in the stitched portion.
[0023] Further, the present invention provides a method of manufacturing a tailored jacket
which can be worn reversibly, comprising steps of cutting a double-faced fabric having
both ornamental front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen
textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration by felting, and stitching the cut
fabrics together in parallel.
[0024] With such a configuration, the double-faced fabric having ornamental front and rear
surfaces, which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like
configuration by felting is cut, and cut fabrics are stitched together in parallel.
[0025] According to the tailored jacket and the manufacturing method thereof of the present
invention, since the double-faced fabric having ornamental front and rear surfaces,
which is a fabric of circular knitted woolen textile compressed in a cloth-like configuration
by felting, is cut on the surface to be cut, and in the stitched portion, the cut
fabrics are stitched together in parallel. Therefore, creases are not left in any
of front and rear surfaces, the seam allowances are not revealed on the front or rear
surface, so that this does not degrade any of a good fit and feeling of silhouette
which are important in wearing a tailored jacket.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0026]
Figs. 1(A) and 1(B) are views of a tailored jacket according to an embodiment of the
present invention;
Fig. 2 is a view of a fabric for making the tailored jacket:
Fig. 3 is a view illustrating an example of a method of manufacturing a cut double-faced
fabric together;
Figs. 4(A) and 1(B) are views illustrating details of a collar;
Figs. 5(A) to 5(D) are views illustrating details of a double-sided button and button
holes; and
Figs. 6(A) and 6(B) are views illustrating details of container bags provided on front
body.
PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0027] The embodiment of the present invention will be described specifically with reference
to the drawings.
[0028] Fig. 1 is a view of a tailored jacket according to an embodiment of the present invention.
[0029] As shown in Fig. 1, a tailored jacket 100 is formed of a double-faced fabric 110
including a first ornamental surface 111 and a second ornamental surface 112 on both
front and rear surfaces, and the jacket can be worn with either of the first ornamental
surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 as the outer side.
[0030] The tailored jacket 100 is a reversibly tailored cloth which can be worn with either
of the front surface or the rear surface, and the both surfaces can be used selectively
properly in accordance with the use by varying the design or color of the first ornamental
surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112.
[0031] The tailored jacket 100 is provided with a plurality of button holes 130 on an upper
front body 121 and a lower front body 122 which are to be laterally overlapped, among
front body 120 which are parts covering the front of a body of a wearer of the tailored
jacket 100.
[0032] The tailored jacket 100 includes a case shown in Fig. 1(A) where it is worn with
the first ornamental surface 111 as the outer side and another case shown in Fig.
1(B) where it is worn with the second ornamental surface 112 as the outer side. In
the case where it is worn with the first ornamental surface 111 as the surface, when
the front body 120 are overlapped, the upper one is an upper front body 121, and the
lower one is a front body 122, and when it is worn with the second ornamental surface
112 as the outer side, the upper one is the upper front body 121 and the lower one
is the front part 122.
[0033] That is, the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are turned inside
out between the case where the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 111
as the outer side and another case where the jacket is worn with the second ornamental
surface 112 as the outer side. The upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122
are sometimes turned inside out depending on whether the wearer of the tailored jacket
is a man or woman.
[0034] The button holes 130 formed to an overlapping portion of the upper front body 121
and the lower front body 122 are provided with detachably attached both-sided buttons
140, so that the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are fastened by
the both-sided buttons 140 by fitting them to the button holes 130 provided to the
upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 respectively. The button holes 130
and the both-sided buttons 140 are to be described specifically later.
[0035] In addition, container bags 150 each in a bag-like shape for containing small articles
are provided to the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface
112 of the front body 120 of the tailored jacket 100. The container bags 150 are to
be described specifically below.
[0036] The tailored jacket 100 includes a collar 160 provided while being turned back outwardly
at a portion fitting a neck. when the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface
111 as the outer side, the collar 160 is provided so that the front side surface of
the collar 160 provided while being turned back is the first ornamental surface 111
and, alternatively, when the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface 112
as the outer side, the collar 160 is provided so that the front side surface of the
collar 160 provided while being turned back is the second ornamental surface 112.
The collar 160 will be described specifically below.
[0037] Fig. 2 is a view of a fabric for making the tailored jacket.
[0038] As shown in Fig. 2, the double-faced fabric 110 has a first ornamental surface 111
and a second ornamental surface 112 as both front and rear surfaces.
[0039] The double-faced fabric 110 is a woolen fabric formed of sheep wool as a material,
which is prepared by forming a tubular cloth by continuous spiral loops through circular
knitting, cutting out the fabric into a planar shape and pressing the resultant fabric
into a sheet-like shape by felting.
[0040] In the circular knitting step, threads of different yarn count and color are knitted,
so that the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 can
be formed to have different colors in one sheet of fabric.
[0041] In addition, when a double-faced circular knitted fabric is moistened with e.g.,
a special chemical and subjected to felting to shrink the fabric while applying pressure
and friction, a double-faced fabric 110 having a felt-like unique texture can be formed.
[0042] As described above, since the sheep wool is subjected to circular knitting and felting,
the loose threads of the fabric are compressed, unlike ordinary clothes, the double-faced
fabric 110 scarcely suffers from loose threads at the cut edge portions.
[0043] Therefore, it is not necessary to treat the cut edges of the double-faced fabric
110, and the cut double-faced fabrics 110 can be stitched together in parallel while
abutting the cut surfaces of the double-faced fabrics 110.
[0044] Accordingly, since it is not necessary to provide a seam allowance, the fabrics can
be stitched together in a planer state, and no protruded seam allowance reveals on
the surface of either the first ornamental surface 111 or the second ornamental surface
112 of the tailored jacket 100. Details of abutting the cut surfaces and stitching
them together in parallel are to be described later.
[0045] By making the tailored jacket 100 using the double-faced fabric 110, a reversibly-tailored
jacket 100 having a specification of completely single fabric can be made. Therefore,
creases or deformation which was caused in reversibly tailored jacket made of double-faced
fabrics so far can be overcome.
[0046] Accordingly, good fit and feeling of silhouette which are important in wearing a
tailored jacket smartly can be obtained. Besides, when the tailored jacket is worn
while fitting it to a body of a wearer, it does not cause discomfort to the wearer
since there is no seam allowance.
[0047] Fig. 3 is a view illustrating an example of a way of stitching cut double-faced fabrics
together.
[0048] As shown in Fig. 3, the double-faced fabric 110 has the first ornamental surface
111 and the second ornamental surface 112 on both front and rear surfaces.
[0049] The double-faced fabric 110 includes cut out surfaces 113 formed by cutting the fabric
along a pattern on every part constituting the tailored jacket 100 without providing
seam allowance.
[0050] Fig. 3 illustrates parts of the tailored jacket 100 cut out into each of the parts,
in which the parts are referred to as a double-faced fabric 110A and a doubled-faced
fabric 110B, respectively, and a part on the left side is referred to as a double-faced
fabric 110A, and another part on the right side is referred to as a double-faced fabric
110B for the sake of convenience.
[0051] The double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B are aligned in parallel
having therebetween a stitching line L where the cut surfaces 113A and 113B are abutted
against each other, and stitched together by two upper threads 114 and 115 and one
lower thread 116.
[0052] The upper thread 114 forms zigzag stitches on the side of the first ornamental surface
111 of the double-faced fabric 110A, and the upper thread 115 forms zigzag stitches
on the side of the first ornamental surface 111 of the double-faced fabric 110B.
[0053] The lower thread 116 forms stitches while passing through stitched and turned loops
of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115 on the side of the second ornamental
surface 112 of the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B.
[0054] On the side of the first ornamental surface 111 of the double-faced fabric 110A and
the double-faced fabric 110B, all of turned back points 114A and turned back points
115A on the side of a stitch line L of the upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115
are located on the stitch line L, and turned back points 114B and turned back points
115B on the side opposite to the stitch line L are provided at predetermined intervals
in the direction orthogonal to the stitch line L.
[0055] The lower thread 116 is stitched in the direction of the stitch line L passing through
the turn back points 114A, 114B, 115A, and 115B on the side of the second ornamental
surface 112 of the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B.
[0056] The lower thread 116 is connected with the upper thread 114 and the upper thread
115 while repeating the loops of stitches and turns formed by the upper thread 114
and the upper thread 115 in the order of the turn back points 115B, 115A, 114B, 115A,
115B, 114A, 115B, ....
[0057] Therefore, the cut out surface 113A is compressed by the upper thread 114 and the
lower thread 116 surrounding the double-faced fabric 110A, the cut out surface 113B
is compressed by the upper thread 115 and the lower thread 116 surrounding the double-faced
fabric 110B, and the lower thread 116 stitches the cut out surface 113A and the cut
out surface 113B together while passing through the stitched and turned loops of the
upper thread 114 and the upper thread 115.
[0058] Accordingly, the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B can be
stitched together in parallel while abutting the cut out surface 113A and the cut
out surface 113B, so that it is possible to stitch the double-faced fabric 110A and
the double-faced fabric 110B together in a flat state without forming protruding seams.
[0059] Since the double-faced fabric 110A and the double-faced fabric 110B can thus be stitched
together in parallel in a flat state, a protruding seam allowance is not formed. That
is, discomfort and loss of good fit that would be caused when a seal allowance protrudes
inwardly in the reversibly tailored jacket 100 can be overcome and also degradation
of aesthetic appearance when a seam allowance is protruded inwardly can be overcome.
[0060] Fig. 4 is a view illustrating details of the collar.
[0061] As shown in Fig. 4, the tailored jacket 100 includes a collar 160 which is provided
while being turned back outwardly at a portion fitting a neck.
[0062] Since the collar 160 is provided while being turned back outwardly, when the tailored
jacket 100 is made in a state where the ornamental surface of the front body 120 is
continued, the outer surface of the outwardly turned back collar 160 and the outer
surface of the front body 120 are revealed on the surface at their different ornamental
surfaces. Then, only the collar 160 has a different ornamental surface, so that the
tailored jacket 100 cannot be formed in a uniform design.
[0063] Specifically, in a case where the jacket is worn with the first ornamental surface
111 as the outer side, when the collar 160 is formed in a state where the ornamental
surface of the front body 120 is continued, since the collar 160 is formed while being
turned back outwardly, the second ornamental surface 112 of the collar 160 is turned
back and revealed on the surface. Then, when the jacket is worn with the first ornamental
surface 111 as the outer side, the second ornamental surface 112 is revealed only
on the surface of the collar 160, and the design lacks uniform feeling.
[0064] Then, the collar 160 is cut from the front body 120 and the back body 170 separately,
and as shown in Figs. 14(A) and 14(B), the front body 120 and the back body 170 are
stitched together so that one of the ornamental surfaces of them is continued, and
the collar 160 is joined by stitching such that only another ornamental surface of
the collar 160 is formed on the same surface as one of the ornamental surfaces of
the front body 120 and the back body 170.
[0065] Specifically, as shown in Fig. 4(A), when the front body 120 and the back body 170
are on the first ornamental surface 111, the collar 160 is joined by stitching to
the front body 120 and the back body 170 such that the second ornamental surface 112
of the collar 160 is continued on the same surface.
[0066] Therefore, as shown in Fig. 4(B), the front body 120 and the back body 170 are joined
by stitching to the collar 160 such that the first ornamental surface 111 of the collar
160 is on the same surface as the second ornamental surface 112 of the front body
120 and the back body 170.
[0067] Accordingly, since the same ornamental surface of the turned back collar 160 as that
of the ornamental surface of the front body 120 and the back body 170 is revealed
on the surface, even when the tailored jacket 100 is worn so that the first ornamental
surface 111 and the second ornamental surface 112 are turned inside out, the jacket
can be worn while having a unified ornamental surface.
[0068] Besides, as shown in Fig. 3, since the front body 120, the back body 170, and the
collar 160 are abutted and stitched together in parallel, a protruding seam allowance
is not revealed on the surface even when the collar 160 is turned back to either side.
[0069] While Fig. 4 shows an example of the collar 160 in which an upper collar and a lower
collar are continued, the collar 160 prepared by cutting out the upper collar and
the lower collar separately and abutting and stitching them together in parallel may
be stitched to the front body 120 and the back body 170.
[0070] Fig. 5 is a view illustrating details of a both-sided button and button holes.
[0071] As shown in Fig. 5(A), a both-sided button 140 includes two one-sided button 141
and a connection part 142 connecting the two one-sided buttons 141.
[0072] The both-sided button 140 is formed of two one-sided buttons 141 at a predetermined
distance to fasten the overlapped thickness of the upper front body 121 and the lower
front body 122, the two one-sided buttons 141 are connected by a connection part 142
formed by winding e.g., a thread around a portion by a plurality of times between
the two one-sided buttons 141 and further winding the e.g., a thread so as to turn
around the two one-sided button 141.
[0073] As shown in Fig. 5(B), a plurality of button holes 130 are formed to portions in
which the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are overlapped. The button
holes 130 formed on both sides of the upper front body 121 and the lower front body
122 are fitted, and the both-sided button 140 is passed through the two button holes
130, thereby capable of connecting the upper front body 121 and the lower front body
122.
[0074] While the diameter of the button hole 130 may be set appropriately, when the diameter
is made identical with the diameter of the one-sided button 141 of the both-sided
button 140, the both-sided button 140 is prevented from coming out of the button hole
130 after connecting the upper front body 121 and the lower body 122 by the both-sided
button 140.
[0075] As shown in Fig. 5(C), when the tailored jacket 100 is worn with the first ornamental
surface 111 as the outer side, the left side as viewed from a wearer is the upper
front body 121, the right side as viewed from the wearer is the lower front body 122,
and the upper front body 121 and the lower front body 122 are fastened with each other
by the both-sided buttons 140.
[0076] Further, as shown in Fig. 5(D), when the tailored jacket 100 is worn with the second
ornamental surface 112 as the outer side, the left side as viewed from a wearer is
the upper front body 121, and the part which has been the lower front body 122 in
Fig. 5(C) is the upper front body 121. Further, the right side as viewed from the
wearer is the lower front body 122, and the part which has been the upper front body
121 in Fig. 5(C) is the lower front body 122.
[0077] In the reversibly tailored jacket 100, even when it is worn such that the front and
the rear surfaces are turned inside out, since the positions of the buttons are not
fixed, the front body 120 can be fastened together in an appropriate state by the
both-sided buttons 140 depending on the state of wearing.
[0078] The design of the tailored jacket 100 can be varied by connecting the two one-sided
buttons 141 of the both-sided button 140 so as to match the first ornamental surface
111 and the second ornamental surface 112 which are two ornamental surfaces of the
tailored jacket 100.
[0079] Fig. 6 is a view illustrating details of a container bag provided to the front body.
[0080] As shown in Fig. 6, the tailored jacket 100 can be optionally provided with a container
bag 150 at a desired position of the front body 120.
[0081] The container bag 150 is formed so as to have a bag-like shape by joining the container
cloth 151 to the surface of the front body 120 by sewing along the stitched portion
152 except for one upper side.
[0082] When the container cloth 151 is joined to the front body 120 by sewing, the container
cloth 151 and the front body 120 are sewn together using a thread. However, if the
container cloth 151 is sewn to the front body 120 as it is, the thread of the stitches
of the stitched portion 152 is exposed on the rear side of the front body 120.
[0083] For example, when the container cloth 151 is sewn on the side of the first ornamental
surface 111 of the tailored jacket 100, the thread of the stitches of the stitched
portion 152 is exposed on the side of the second ornamental surface 112. If the tailored
jacket 100 is worn while turning the front surface and the rear face inside out in
a state where the thread of the stitches of the stitched portion 152 is exposed on
the side of the second ornamental surface 112, the thread of the stitched portion
152 which has been exposed on the side of the second ornamental surface 112 is exposed
on the outer side, leading to degradation of aesthetic sense.
[0084] Then, in the tailored jacket 100 of the present invention, the position and the shape
of the container bags 150 formed on the first ornamental surface 111 and the second
ornamental surface 112 are made identical, whereby the exposed stitched portion 152
can be minimized.
[0085] Specifically, the configuration of the container cloth 151 formed on the first ornamental
surface 111 is made identical with that of the container cloth 151 formed on the second
ornamental surface 112, and the position of the container cloth 151 sewn to the first
ornamental surface 111 and that of the second ornamental surface 112 are made identical.
[0086] When performing the sewing, the position of the container cloth 151 formed on the
first ornamental surface 111 and the position of the container cloth 151 formed on
the second ornamental surface 112 are matched and then basted, so that the two container
clothes 151 are fixed to the double-faced fabric 110 at the same position, and then
the two container clothes 151 are sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 by final stitching,
and then the basting thread is removed.
[0087] As the final stitching, while the two container clothes 151 may be sewn to the double-faced
fabric 110 at a time, one container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110
from either side of the first ornamental surface 111 and the second ornamental surface
112, and another container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 along
the line of the stitches from another side.
[0088] Accordingly, the container cloth 151 is sewn to the double-faced fabric 110 along
one stitch line, so that excess stitches are not exposed even viewing from the side
of the first ornamental surface 111 or the second ornamental surface 112.
[0089] As described above, since the double-faced fabric having ornamental surfaces on both
front and rear surfaces, which is a fabric of a circular knitted woolen textile compressed
in a cloth-like shape by felting is cut out, and the cut out fabrics are abutted against
each other and stitched together in parallel, creases are not left on either front
or rear surface and the stitches are not revealed on either front or rear surface.
[0090] Therefore, reversibly tailored jacket that can be worn by turning the front and rear
surfaces inside out can be made without degrading good fit and feeling of silhouette
which are important in wearing a tailored jacket smartly.
[Description of Reference Numerals]
[0091]
100 tailored jacket,
110, 110A, 110B double-faced fabric
111 first ornamental surface
112 second ornamental surface
113, 113A, 113B cut out surface
114, 115 upper thread
114A, 114B, 115A, 115B turned back point
116 lower thread
120 front body
121 upper front body
122 lower front body
130 button hole
140 both-sided button
141 one-sided button
142 connection portion
150 container bag
151 container cloth
152 stitched portion
160 collar
170 back body
L stitch line