METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR MANUFACTURING A SAMPLE OF FABRIC ADAPTED TO CONTROL THE COLOR UNIFORMITY AND OTHER TECHNICAL FEATURES

Abstract

 There are described a method and an apparatus for manufacturing samples of fabric adapted to control the color uniformity of its technical features, wherein the sample is made so as to place parts of the central area of the piece and parts of the end bands with the selvages side by side.
The apparatus comprises various units that carry out the folding, cutting and sewing operations so as to obtain the sample of desired shape.

Description

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a method and to an apparatus for manufacturing a sample of fabric adapted to control the color uniformity and other technical features.

Prior art

[0002] In textile technology fabrics are subjected to numerous quality controls. These controls include an examination of the quality and of the color distribution uniformity along the whole of the height of the fabric, i.e., from selvage to selvage, and the examination of other technical features. In fact, it is necessary to check that the dye has fixed to the fabric uniformly, without creating non-uniformity and irregular distribution of the dye along the whole of the height of the fabric, in particular between the center of the piece and the outer bands, i.e., the areas close to the selvage. This preventive control is required in order to detect non-uniformity of color and/or shade, so as to prevent the manufacture of a garment that has component parts with different color/shade intensity.

[0003] This control is performed visually by a skilled operator, or using a spectrophotometer. The control requires the preparation of a suitable sample, produced so as to place portions of the central area of the piece and portions of the outer bands of the piece, i.e., portions ending at the selvages, side by side, so as to allow direct comparison and the identification of any irregularities.

[0004] The sample produced for this control is obtained by cutting a strip of fabric, for example of about 30 cm, and making a series of seams and folds until obtaining an approximately tubular shaped product, which, due to its tubular shape, is called "tube", in which portions of fabric corresponding to the center of the piece and portions of fabric close to the selvage are reversed and adjacent and therefore adapted to allow an effective control of the uniformity of the color. In particular, the central parts of the fabric are taken to the outside of the tube, and the outer bands close to the selvages are taken to the inside of the tube.

[0005] Controls relating to other features are also carried out on the sample in question, such as:

• assigning the shade;
• determining the dry rubbing color fastness;
• determining the slip resistance of the yarns in correspondence with the seams;
• determining the maximum seam strength;
• determining the tear strength;
• determining the resistance to surface wetting;
• determining the tendency of the fabrics to form surface fuzzing and pilling;
• determining the elasticity of the fabrics.

[0006] At the state of the art, this tube is made manually, making the seams with a sewing machine, the cuts with common scissors, and the necessary folding and positioning operations of the fabric manually, by an operator. This requires time and the availability of a skilled operator, and in any case does not ensure the production of a standardized sample.

[0007] CN 108 414 326 A discloses a fully automatic fabric sample-preparation machine to cut fabrics by means of a shear knife assembly that avoids staining of samples. The device has a wide range of applications. Fabrics, leather, plastics and other flexible sheet can be processed, including multiple layers at the same time, with high-speed steel cross-cutting knives that are sharp and wear-resistant, and the cutting tools are easy to replace.

[0008] An object of the present invention is therefore to provide a standardized method for manufacturing a sample of fabric adapted to control color uniformity and other technical features.

[0009] Another object of the invention is to provide a standardized method that can be automated for manufacturing this sample of fabric.

[0010] A further object of the invention is to provide an apparatus for manufacturing a sample of fabric adapted to control color uniformity and other technical features, in particular adapted to carry out the aforesaid method.

Summary of the invention

[0011] Therefore, an aspect of the invention concerns a method for manufacturing a sample of fabric in piece of height H, obtained using a strip of fabric of the same height H of the fabric and of length (L), obtained by orthogonally cutting said piece from selvage to selvage, comprising the following steps:

A) Arranging said strip of fabric on a pair of adjacent, spaced coplanar plates, forming a work plane, in which a left plate and a right plate and a work front side are defined, said left plate being provided with at least a first slit open towards said work side and having a length (l) equal to or greater than the length (L) of said strip of fabric, said strip of fabric being arranged folded in two parts of equal height (H/2) with overlapping selvages on said left plate and with a side in the direction of the height superimposed on said work side of said work plane, wherein said pair of coplanar plates are spaced apart by a second slit, both said first and second slits being oriented perpendicular to said work side of said work plane and parallel to the direction of the length of said strip of fabric;

B) Cutting said strip of fabric along said folding line so as to obtain an upper half-strip and a lower half-strip forming an assembly of two separate and overlapping half-strips, in which a first end is defined having overlapping selvedges and a second end corresponding to the center line of the piece;

C) Blocking of said second end of said assembly of two half-strips and first translation of said first end towards said second end by sliding on said left plate, with the formation of a lap of said assembly of two half-strips folded below said work plane and inside said second slit;

D) Making a first seam of said two half-strips of said assembly in correspondence with said first slit of said left plate, at a distance from said first end between 0.05 and 0.2 H;

E) Second translation of said first end towards said second end of said assembly of two half-strips by further sliding on said left plate and extension of said lap folded below said work plane and inside said second slit, so that said first end and said second end are substantially equidistant from said second slit;

F) Folding of said first and second ends of upper half-strip of said assembly of two half-strips in the direction of said work side of said work plane according to an angle of 45°, with the formation of a pair of flaps projecting from said work side;

G) Folding of said assembly of two half-strips by superimposing said first and second ends of said assembly of two half-strips obtained by overturning said right plate on said left plate, with overlapping of said protruding flaps of said upper half-strip;

H) Making a second seam of said two half-strips of said assembly in correspondence with said protruding flaps of said upper half-strip;

I) Making a third seam of said first and second ends of said two half-strips, in correspondence with said second slit;

J) Unloading of said sample of fabric and overturning the inside towards the outside, with the formation of a sample comprising two tubular sleeves joined at the center by said first seam, wherein, in a flattened arrangement of said tubular sleeves, there is defined an upper side and a lower side joined at the center by said first seam, on the sides of which are defined in said upper side two portions of fabric ending with said selvedges, outside of which two central portions of said fabric joined to said selvedges are arranged by means of said second and third seams, such that it is possible to compare the quality of said portions of fabric ending with said selvedges with said central portions of fabric.

[0012] Another aspect of the invention concerns an apparatus for carrying out the method for manufacturing a sample of fabric in piece defined above, comprising:

• a pair of coplanar, adjacent and spaced plates forming a work plane, in which are defined a left plate, a right plate and a work front side, said left plate being provided with at least a first slit open towards said work side, and said right plate being spaced apart from said left plate by a second slit, both said first and second slits being oriented perpendicularly to said work side of said work plane;
• support means of said pair of plates, rotatable about a vertical axis (Z);
• fixing means of a sample of fabric to said pair of left and right plates;
• 45° folding means of parts of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on said pair of left and right plates;
• overturning means of said right plate about a horizontal axis (Y), adapted to superimpose said right plate on said left plate;
• cutting means of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on said pair of left and right plates;
• sewing means of a sample of fabric that is operatively arranged on said pair of left and right plates, said sewing means being mounted on a pair of slides for translating said sewing means along a horizontal axis (X), operatively adapted to enter said first and second slits of said pair of left and right plates;
• motor means for said support, fixing, rotation, cutting and sewing means.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

[0013] The invention is described below with reference to the accompanying figures, provided by way of non-limiting example, wherein:

• Fig. 1 shows a piece of partially wound fabric;
• Fig. 2 shows a strip of fabric cut from the piece of Fig. 2, for manufacturing the sample according to the invention;
• Figs. 2A and 2B show the strip of Fig. 2 folded on the center line B-B of Fig. 2, respectively in plan and in side view;
• Figs. 3, and 4 and 4A illustrate Steps A and B of the method according to the invention, and part of the apparatus for their implementation;
• Figs. 5, 5A and 5B illustrate Step C of the method and part of the apparatus for its implementation;
• Figs. 6 and 6A illustrate Step D of the method and part of the apparatus for its implementation;
• Figs. 7, 7A and 7B illustrate Step E of the method and part of the apparatus for its implementation;
• Figs. 8 and 8A illustrate Step F of the method and part of the apparatus for its implementation;
• Figs. 9, 9A and 9B illustrate Step G of the method and part of the apparatus for its implementation;
• Figs. 10 and 10A illustrate Step H of the method and part of the apparatus for its implementation;
• Figs. 11, 11A and 11B illustrate Step I of the method and part of the apparatus for its implementation;
• Fig. 12 is a top plan view of the final shape of the sample of fabric obtained with Step J;
• Fig. 12A is a perspective view of the sample of fabric of Fig. 12;
• Fig. 13 is a general perspective view of an embodiment of the apparatus according to the invention; and
• Figs. 14, 14A, 15, 16 and 17 are perspective views of a unit belonging to the apparatus of Fig. 13.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0014] In the present description the term "fabric" and the term "fabric in piece" are used interchangeably.

[0015] With reference to Figs. 1 and 2, in a fabric in piece the distance (H) between the selvages C1 and C2, respectively left and right is defined as height, and a part of fabric cut in the direction of the height is defined as length (L). In Fig. 2 shows a strip 10 of fabric cut from the piece of Fig. 1, for preparing a sample of fabric to carry out quality controls, in particular to control color regularity and uniformity and technical features between the central part of the fabric and the peripheral parts close to the left C1 and right C2 selvage.

[0016] To prepare a sample on which to control color uniformity and its technical features, the strip 10 is cut and some folds and seams are made, until obtaining the "tube", i.e., a sample of limited height in which the portions of fabric close to the selvages are in the center and the central portions of the fabric are on the outside. This inversion of the parts of the fabric allows easy verification of any non-uniform distribution of the dye and of its technical features on the fabric.

[0017] The folding, cutting and sewing operations required are defined as steps of the method according to the invention and differ from the steps of the known method, carried out manually.

[0018] A preliminary step of the method for manufacturing a sample of fabric in piece according to the invention involves cutting a strip of fabric orthogonally to the direction of length of the piece, i.e., from selvage C1 to selvage C2.

[0019] The strip that is cut therefore has a height H, which is the same height H of the fabric, and a length (L), preferably between 6 and 60 cm, more preferably between 10 and 25 cm, even more preferably between 12 and 20 cm.

[0020] The subsequent steps of the method are illustrated with reference to Figs. 3-12. In these figures, the steps of the method are illustrated as implemented with the aid of an apparatus that also forms an aspect of the invention, as will be described in greater detail below. Moreover, in these figures the figure with which the letter A, B or C is associated illustrates the appearance of the sample in preparation at the end of the related step of the method.

Step A

[0021] Step A is described with reference to Figs. 2A, 3 and 4, which show the strip 10 of fabric, which has been obtained by cutting the piece along the line A of Fig. 1, folded in two parts of the same height (H/2) along the center line B-B of Fig. 2, with overlapping of the selvages C1 and C2. For greater clarity, in Fig. 3 a corner of the right selvage C2 has been represented as raised, in order to show the selvage C1 below.

[0022] The strip 10 is arranged on a pair of coplanar, adjacent and spaced plates 12, 14, forming a work plane, in which a left plate 12, a right plate 14 and a work front side 16 are defined in each plate.

[0023] The left plate 12 is provided with a first slit 18, open towards the work side 16, and having a length (l) equal to or greater than the length (L) of the strip of fabric 10. This allows, as will more apparent below in relation to Step D, a seam to be made by inserting a stitcher into the slit 18 for the whole of the length L of the strip 10 of fabric. For this reason, the front side is defined as "work side".

[0024] As said, the strip of fabric 10 is folded into two parts of equal height (H/2) with overlapping of the right selvage C2 on the left selvage C1 in the left plate 12, and with a side in the direction of the height H/2 superimposed on the work side 16 of the work plane.

[0025] The coplanar work plates 12, 14 are spaced apart by a second slit 20. Both the first and second slit 18, 20 are oriented perpendicular to the work side 16 of the work plane and parallel to the direction of the length L of the strip of fabric 10. The second slit 20 has the same height of the plates 12, 14, and constitutes a separation space between them.

[0026] Figs. 3 and 4 show guide means of the folded strip 10 on the pair of plates 12, 14. In an embodiment, these means are constituted by a pair of arms 22, 24, constituted by paddles having end parts 23 and 25 bent outwards by around 45°. The arms 22, 24 are arranged at the sides of the second slit 20, so as to form, when operatively lowered on the strip 10, as shown in Figs. 4 and 5, a Y open in the direction of the work side 16, so as to maintain the strip lying flat on the work plane.

Step B

[0027] Step B is described with reference once again to Figs. 3, 4 and 4A, which show cutting means constituted by a cutter 26 mounted on a support 27 sliding on a rail 28. The cutter 26 cuts the strip of fabric 10 along the folding line 30 corresponding to the center line B (Fig. 2) of the strip, so as to obtain an upper half-strip 10a and a lower half-strip 10b (Fig. 3), forming an assembly 11 of two separate and overlapping half-strips 10a and 10b. In the assembly 11 of two half-strips 10a and 10b, a first end 13, having overlapping selvages C1 and C2, and a second end 15, corresponding to the center line of the piece, are defined. The shape of the sample after Steps A and B is shown schematically also in Fig. 4A.

Step C

[0028] Step C is described with reference also to Fig. 5, which shows temporary blocking means of the end 15 of the assembly 11 of the due half-strips 10a and 10b. The blocking means are constituted by a plate 21 that is lowered and pressed on the assembly 11 close to the end 15 of the assembly 11, so as to block this part and the related end.

[0029] The first end 13 of the assembly 11 is made to slide towards the second end 15 in the direction of the arrows B. This sliding takes place on the left plate 12 by means of a bar 32 that enters the second slit 20 and moves downwards, with the formation of a lap 34 of the assembly 11, folded below the work plane formed by the two plates 12, 14. The purpose of this step is to carry the end 13 of the assembly 11 towards the first slit 18 so that this first slit is located at a distance from the end 13 between 0.05 and 0.2 H.

[0030] The arms 22 and 24 are lowered on the assembly 11 loosely engaging the strip 10, i.e., without exerting a pressure against the work plane, so as to guide sliding and maintain the assembly 11 lying flat.

[0031] Figs. 5A and 5B schematically show the appearance of the assembly 11 after Step C.

Step D

[0032] Step D is described with reference to Figs. 6 and 6A, which show the making of a first seam 35 of the two half-strips 10a and 10b of the assembly 11 in correspondence with the first slit 18 of the left plate 12. This first seam 35 is made at a distance from the first end 13 between 0.05 and 0.2 H, preferably between 0.08 and 0.15 H. Preferably, the seam is made along the whole length L of the assembly 11.

[0033] In an embodiment in which the height H of the fabric is 200 cm, the distance of the first seam 35 from the end 13 is between 10 and 40 cm, preferably between 16 and 30 cm.

[0034] The first seam 35 is made with sewing means constituted by a stitcher 36 translatable on slides 38 along horizontal axes (X), adapted to insert the stitcher 36 into the first slit 18. To make the seam the assembly 11 is blocked by a fork 35, suitably liftable from and lowerable onto the work plane. When the fork 35 is lowered the needle of the stitcher can thus enter the fork 35.

Step E

[0035] Step E is illustrated with reference to Figs. 7, 7A and 7B and concerns the second translation of the first end 13 of the assembly 11 towards the second end 15. To make this second translation the part of the assembly 11 ending with the end 13 is made to slide further on the left plate 12, after having lifted the fork 37, by means of further lowering of the bar 32 into the second slit 20. This further lowering of the bar 32 causes an extension of the lap 34 folded below the work plane.

[0036] The purpose of this step is to carry the end 13 of the assembly 11 in close proximity of the first slit 18. In this arrangement the first end 13 and the second end 15 are substantially equidistant from the second slit 20, hence from the center line of the assembly 11.

[0037] Figs. 7A and 7B schematically show the appearance of the assembly 11 after Step E.

Step F

[0038] Step F is illustrated with reference to Figs. 8 and 8A, and concerns the folding of the first and second end of only the upper half-strip 10a of the assembly 11 of half-strips 10a and 10b. These two ends are folded to 45° in the direction of the work side 16 of the work plane according to an angle of 45°, with the formation of a pair of flaps 40, 41, projecting from the work side 16 of the work plane. Preferably the flaps 40, 41 project from the work side 16 of the work plane for a portion between 1 and 5 cm, more preferably between 2 and 4 cm, for example they project for a portion of 3 cm.

[0039] As will be described in greater detail below, the folding of the ends of the upper half-strip 10a is obtained with the use of adhesive means or with grippers, so as to lift only the ends of the upper half-strip 10a from the lower half-strip 10b.

[0040] As has been said, each arm 22 and 24 is structured with a part 23, 25 oriented at 45° towards the outside, so as to form in the assembly a Y open in the direction of the work side 16. The arrangement oriented at 45° has the purpose of making the 45° fold of the ends of the upper half-strip 10a and of obtaining the pair of flaps 40, 41, as well as of maintaining the strip 10a lying flat on the work plane.

[0041] Fig. 8A schematically shows the appearance of the assembly 11 after Step F.

Step G

[0042] Step G is illustrated with reference to Figs. 9, 9A and 9B and concerns folding of the strip of fabric by means of overlapping the ends 13, 15 of the assembly 11, obtained by means of bending the right plate 14 on the left plate 12, with overlapping of the projecting flaps 40, 41 of the upper half-strip 10a.

[0043] Bending of the right plate 14 is obtained by rotating the right plate 14 through 180° around a hinge with horizontal axis Xc, as shown in Figs. 6 and 9, in particular by the arrow C of Fig. 9.

[0044] Figs. 9A and 9B schematically show the appearance of the assembly 11 after Step G.

Step H

[0045] Step H is illustrated with reference to Figs. 10 and 10A and concerns the making of a second seam 45 of the two half-strips 10a and 10b of the assembly 11, in correspondence with the projecting flaps 40,41 of the upper half-strip 10a.

[0046] Just as for Step D, the second seam 45 is made with sewing means constituted by a stitcher 36 translatable on slides 38 along horizontal axes (X), adapted to carry the stitcher 36 in correspondence with the projecting edges of the flaps 40, 41.

[0047] Fig. 10A schematically shows the appearance of the assembly 11 after Step H.

Step I

[0048] Step I is illustrated with reference to Figs. 11 and 11A and concerns the making of a third seam 47 of the two half-strips 10a and 10b of the assembly 11, in correspondence with of the projecting flaps 40,41 of the upper half-strip 10a.

[0049] Just as for Step H, the second seam 47 is made with sewing means constituted by the stitcher 36 translatable on slides 38 along horizontal axes (X), adapted to take the stitcher 36 in correspondence with the protruding edges of the flaps 40, 41, but rotated by 90° with respect to Step H.

[0050] Figs. 11A and 11B schematically show the appearance of the assembly 11 after Step I.

Step J

[0051] Step J consists in unloading the sample of fabric obtained with the previous steps from the apparatus used. Before the final overturning, the shape of the assembly 11 in which the required folds and seams have been made is shown schematically in Figs. 11A and 11B.

[0052] The sample of fabric having the desired final shape, also called "tube", is shown schematically in Figs. 12 and 12A and is indicated as a whole with 50. It is obtained by overturning the inside of the assembly 11 shown in Figs. 11A and 11B towards the outside.

[0053] Fig. 12 shows the sample 50 in a top plan view and Fig. 12A shows the same sample in a perspective view, highlighting the approximately tubular shape.

[0054] The inside-outside overturning of the assembly 11 causes the formation of a sample of fabric comprising two parts 50a and 50b which - if they are spread out from the inside towards the outside - assume an approximately tubular shape.

[0055] The parts 50a and 50b are joined at the center by the first seam 35, wherein, with reference to the flattened arrangement of Fig. 12, there is defined a common upper side 52 and a common lower side 54, joined at the center by the first seam 35. At the sides of the first seam 35 there are defined, in the common upper side 52, two portions of fabric 53 and 55, respectively ending with the left selvage C1 and with the right selvage C2. Outside the selvages C1 and C2 there are instead defined two portions 56 and 57, which are the parts originally corresponding to the center of the fabric, joined at the selvages C1 and C2 by means of the second seam 45 and the third seam 47.

[0056] This structure of the common upper side 52 of the sample allows direct and easy comparison of the color uniformity of its technical features of the portions of fabric 53,55 ending with the selvages with the central portions 56, 57 of the fabric, now located at the outside of the sample 50.

[0057] Another aspect of the invention concerns the apparatus used for implementation of the method described above.

[0058] An embodiment of this apparatus is illustrated in Figs. 13-17.

[0059] With reference to these figures, the apparatus comprises some units arranged in a support structure 60, functionally connected so as to carry out the steps of the method described above.

[0060] A first unit 62 comprises the pair of coplanar plates 12, 14, adjacent but spaced apart from each other by a slit 20, forming a work plane, in which a left plate 12 and a right plate 14 are defined. The work plane is also defined by a work front side 16, towards which a first slit 18 opens, in the left plate 12. The first slit 18 and the second slit 20 are oriented perpendicular to the work side 16 of the work plane formed by the two plates 12,14.

[0061] As described previously, a strip of fabric in piece is operatively arranged on the work plane formed by the two plates 12,14 for the formation of a sample adapted to control the color uniformity of its technical features.

[0062] The plates 12,14 are mounted on support means comprising a support 64 fixed to the top of a column 66 rotating around a vertical axis Z, as shown in Fig. 14. In this figure the length l of the slit 18 has also been indicated. The column 66 is operated by a motor 68 through a gear motor 69, managed by an encoder positioner, not illustrated. The column 66 thus constitutes the rotation means of the support 64 of the plates 12,14.

[0063] The rotation of the support 64 around a vertical axis Z allows a 90° rotation of the plates forming the work plane, so as to expose at least two sides of the sample of fabric to the sewing means, so that these are able to make 180° seams, as shown by Figs. 6, 10 and 11. In particular, Fig. 6 shows the first seam 35, Fig. 10 the second seam 45 and Fig. 11 the third seam 47, these last two seams being perpendicular to each other.

[0064] The support indicated as a whole with 64 comprises a system of components adapted to allow implementation of the cutting, sewing and folding operations of the sample of fabric.

[0065] With reference also to Fig. 14A, the support 64 is constituted by a plate 59 approximately trapezoidal in shape, on the longer side of which a crosspiece 83 is provided, adapted to support a beam 65 (Figs. 7 and 14), which in turn supports the plates 12,14.

[0066] The fork 35 and the arms 22, 24 are also mounted on the support 64 of the plates 12,14, all by means of hinges, which allow them to be raised to a vertical position, i.e., at 90° above the work plane, and to be lowered onto the work plane. This raising and lowering is operated by pneumatic actuator means 61.

[0067] The fork 35 and the arms 22, 24 constitute temporary fixing means of the fabric on the plates 12, 14, as they are adapted to maintain the fabric in the flat and spread out arrangement but can disengage from the fabric in the raised arrangement.

[0068] A further temporary fixing means of the fabric is constituted by the plate 21, which is lowered and pressed on the fabric to carry out Step G described previously. This movement is obtained due to a hinge 67 fixed to the rear side of the plate 21, i.e. to the opposite side with respect to the work side.

[0069] In an embodiment, the arms 22, 24 are designed to engage the fabric loosely in the lowered position, so as to in any case allow the fabric to slide between the arms 22,24 and the plates 12,14.

[0070] The 45° folding means of the ends of the upper half-strip 10a to obtain the pair of flaps 40, 41, are constituted by the parts 23, 25 of the arms 22, 24 bent at 45°, and by lifting means of the ends of the upper half-strip 10a with respect to the lower strip 10b.

[0071] To obtain the formation of the flaps 40,41 - during Step F of the method - the first and second end only of the upper half-strip 10a of the assembly 11 are in fact picked up and lifted with respect to the lower half-strip 10b by flap lifting means illustrated in particular in Figs. 13 and 17.

[0072] In an embodiment, the lifting means, indicated as a whole with 90, are constituted by portions of adhesive tape wound on two pairs of rollers 92, 94 mounted on supports 93, which slide on rails 95 by means of suitable actuator means.

[0073] The rails 95 are fixed to a load-bearing structure 91 of the whole apparatus 62 in a crossed-over arrangement, so as to superimpose the rails 95 on the bent branches 23, 25 of the arms 22, 24. The supports 93 are made to slide on the rails 95 and carried to correspond with the ends of the upper half-strip 10A to be lifted.

[0074] An adhesive tape 94 is wound on the rollers 92, suitably guided by a pair of idle rollers 96, so that the adhesive part of the adhesive tape 94 is facing downwards and is carried into contact with the ends of the upper half-strip 10a, so as to produce the adhesion of these ends to the adhesive tape 94. The rotation of one of the two rollers 92 of each pair of rollers by means of micromotors 97 causes sliding of the tape 94 towards the upper roller of each pair of rollers, and consequent lifting of the ends of the upper half-strip 10a, consequently enabling folding guided by the arms 22,24 and formation of the flaps 40,41. In fact, as stated, each arm 22 and 24 is structured with parts 23,25 oriented according to an angle of 45°, so as to form in the assembly a Y open in the direction of the work side 16. The orientation to an angle of 45° has the purpose of making the fold of the ends of the upper half-strip 10a and of obtaining the pair of flaps 40, 41, as well as maintaining the strip 10a lying flat on the work plane. The flaps 40,41 folded to 45° protrude by a short portion from the work side, for example by around 3 cm.

[0075] In different embodiments, not illustrated, the use of adhesive means that detach the upper half-strip 10a from the lower half-strip 10b can be replaced by the use of grippers or suction cups.

[0076] Finally, the first unit 62 comprises the overturning means 70 of the right plate 14 through rotation about a horizontal axis Xc, i.e., by a rotation of 180° of the right plate 14 around a hinge with horizontal axis Xc, as shown in Figs. 6 and 9, in particular by the arrow C of Fig. 9, so as to superimpose the right plate 14 on the left plate 12. With reference to Figs. 7 and 9, these overturning means 70 are constituted by a rack rod 72 coupled to a gear 74, connected to a support 78 of the plate 14, adapted to determine the rotation of 180° around the axis Xc and hence overturning of the right plate 14 on the left plate 12.

[0077] A second unit 80, comprising cutting means of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on the pair of left 12 and right 14 plates, is shown in Fig. 15, but is also visible in Fig. 4. The cutting means are constituted by a horizontal blade cutter 26, mounted on a support 27 sliding on a rail 28. The support is operated by an actuator 82. The cutter 26 cuts the strip of fabric 10 along the folding line 30 (Fig. 4).

[0078] A third unit 90, comprising sewing means of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on the pair of left 12 and right 14 plates, is shown in Fig. 16, but is also visible in Figs. 6, 10 and 11. The sewing means are constituted by a stitcher 36 translatable on slides 38 along horizontal axes (X). The stitcher 36 is provided with a needle 63 with vertical movement.

[0079] As stated in the description above, each unit comprises motor and actuator means for the support, fixing, rotation, cutting and sewing means.

[0080] The rotation of the support 64 of the plates 12,14, hence of the work plane, around the vertical axis Z, allows 90° seams to be made, as required for manufacturing the sample 50.

[0081] The apparatus described is suitable to implement the method according to the invention in an automated manner and ensures the achievement of a standardized sample, reducing the times required by known manual methods and improving the quality of the product obtained.

Claims

1. Method for manufacturing a sample of fabric in piece of height H, obtained using a strip (10) of fabric in piece of the same height H of the fabric and of length (L), obtained by orthogonally cutting said piece from selvage to selvage (C1, C2), characterized by comprising the following steps:

A) arranging said strip of fabric on a pair of adjacent, spaced coplanar plates (12, 14), forming a work plane, in which a left plate (12) and a right plate (14) and a work front side (16) are defined, said left plate (12) being provided with at least a first slit (18) open towards said work side (16) and having a length (l) equal to or greater than the length (L) of said strip of fabric, said strip of fabric being arranged folded in two parts of equal height (H/2) along a folding line (30) and with overlapping selvages (C1, C2) on said left plate (12) and with a side in the direction of the height superimposed on said work side (16) of said work plane, wherein said pair of coplanar plates (12, 14) are spaced apart by a second slit (20), both said first (18) and second (20) slits being oriented perpendicular to said work side (16) of said work plane and parallel to the direction of the length (L) of said strip (10) of fabric;

B) cutting said strip (10) of fabric along said folding line (30) so as to obtain an upper half-strip (10a) and a lower half-strip (10b) forming an assembly (11) of two separate and overlapping half-strips, in which a first end (13) is defined having overlapping selvedges (C1, C2) and a second end (15) corresponding to the center line of the piece;

C) blocking of said second end (15) of said assembly (11) of two half-strips and first translation of said first end (13) towards said second end (15) by sliding on said left plate (12), with the formation of a lap (34) of said assembly (11) of two half-strips folded below said work plane and inside said second slit (20);

D) making a first seam (35) of said two half-strips (10a, 10b) of said assembly (11) in correspondence with said first slit (18) of said left plate (12), at a distance from said first end (13) between 0.05 and 0.2H;

E) second translation of said first end (13) towards said second end (15) of said assembly (11) of two half-strips by further sliding on said left plate (12) and extension of said lap (34) folded below said work plane and inside said second slit (20), so that said first end (13) and said second end (15) are substantially equidistant from said second slit (20);

F) folding of said first and second ends (13, 15) of upper half-strip (10a) of said assembly (11) of two half-strips in the direction of said work side (16) of said work plane according to an angle of 45°, with the formation of a pair of flaps (40, 41) projecting from said work side (16);

G) folding of said assembly (11) of two half-strips by superimposing said first and second ends (13, 15) of said assembly (11) of two half-strips obtained by overturning said right plate (14) on said left plate (12), with overlapping said protruding flaps (40, 41) of said upper half-strip (10a);

H) making a second seam (45) of said two half-strips of said assembly (11) in correspondence with said protruding flaps (40, 41) of said upper half-strip (10a);

I) making a third seam (47) of said first and second ends (13, 15) of said two half-strips, in correspondence with said second slit (20);

J) unloading of said sample of fabric and overturning the inside towards the outside, with the formation of a sample (50) comprising two tubular sleeves (50a, 50b) joined at the center by said first seam (35), wherein, in a flattened arrangement of said tubular sleeves, there is defined an upper side (52) and a lower side (54) joined at the center by said first seam (35), on the sides of which are defined in said upper side (52) two portions of fabric (53.55) ending with said selvedges (C1, C2), outside of which two central portions (56.57) of said fabric joined to said selvedges (C1, C2) are arranged by means of said second (45) and third (47) seams, such that it is possible to compare the quality of said portions of fabric ending with said selvedges with said central portions of fabric.

2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that in said Step F) said pair of flaps (40, 41) protrude from said work side (16) of said work plane for a portion comprised between 2 and 4 cm.

3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said second seam (45) and said third seam (47) made respectively in said Step H) and in said Step I) are orthogonal.

4. Method according to one or more of the claims from 1 to 3, characterized in that said strip (10) of fabric in piece has a length (L) of between 6 and 60 m.

5. Apparatus for carrying out the method for manufacturing a sample of fabric in piece according to one or more of claims 1 to 4, characterized by comprising:

- a pair of coplanar, adjacent and spaced plates (12, 14) forming a work plane, in which are defined a left plate (12), a right plate (14) and a work front side (16), said left plate (12) being provided with at least a first slit (18) open towards said work side (16), and said right plate (14) being spaced apart from said left plate (12) by a second slit (20), both said first (18) and second (20) slits being oriented perpendicular to said work side (16) of said work plane;

- support means (64.66) of said pair of plates (12, 14), rotatable about a vertical axis (Z);

- fixing means (22,24,21) of a sample of fabric to said pair of left (12) and right (14) plates;

- 45° folding means (22,24,90) of parts of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on said pair of left (12) and right (14) plates;

- overturning means (70) of said right plate about a horizontal axis (Xc), adapted to superimpose said right plate (14) on said left plate (12);

- cutting means (80) of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on said pair of left (12) and right (14) plates;

- sewing means (90) of a sample of fabric that is operatively arranged on said pair of left (12) and right (14) plates, said sewing means being mounted on a pair of slides for translating said sewing means along a horizontal axis (X), operatively adapted to enter said first and second slits of said pair of left and right plates;

- motor means for said support, fixing, rotation, cutting and sewing means.

6. Apparatus according to claim 5, characterized in that said support means (64) of said pair of plates (12, 14) comprise a plate (59) mounted at the top of a column (66) rotatable about said vertical axis (Z), said plate being integral with a crosspiece (83) on which a beam (65) is fixed on which said plates (12, 14) are mounted.

7. Apparatus according to one or more of the claims from 4 to 6, characterized in that said fixing means of a sample of fabric to said pair of left (12) and right (14) plates comprise a plate (21), a pair of arms (22, 24) and a fork (35), all mounted on horizontal hinges and adapted to be operatively rotated to assume a raised position with respect to said work plane, in which said fixing means do not engage said sample of fabric, and a lowered position, in which said fixing means engage said sample of fabric.

8. Apparatus according to one or more of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that said 45° folding means of parts of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on said pair of left (12) and right (14) plates comprise parts (23,25) of said arms (22,24) bent at 45° and lifting means (90) of parts of said sample of fabric.

9. Apparatus according to one or more of the claims from 5 to 8, characterized in that said means for overturning said right-hand plate (14) by rotation around said horizontal axis (Xc) comprise a rack rod (72) coupled to a gear (74), connected to a support (78) of said plate (14) adapted to allow the rotation of 180° around said axis (Xc) and the overturning on said left plate (12).

10. Apparatus according to one or more of the claims from 5 to 9, characterized in that said cutting means (80) of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on said pair of left (12) and right (14) plates are constituted by a horizontal blade cutter (26) mounted on a support (27) sliding on a rail (28) under the action of an actuator (82).

11. Apparatus according to one or more of the claims from 5 to 10, characterized in that said sewing means (90) of a sample of fabric operatively arranged on said pair of left (12) and right (14) plates comprise a sewing machine (36) translatable on slides (38) along horizontal axes (X).

Drawing