[0001] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a textile padding product,
in particular as a padding for comforters and garments.
[0002] Silk is one of the most widely used materials in the textile industry for the production
of garments, underwear or other similar high-quality products.
[0003] The properties of silk have been known for a long time and can be summarized as follows:
- high resistance, since it is the natural fiber of greater strength;
- lightness and softness;
- hypoallergenic and antibacterial properties;
- hygroscopicity, which allows good perspiration;
- thermoregulation, keeping the body warm in winter and cool in summer;
- protective action, because silk absorbs ultraviolet rays thus protecting the skin.
[0004] The silk textile industry produces considerable amounts of processing waste, in the
form of finished fabrics, either dyed or undyed, printed silk and the like. Since
the cost of silk is high, this waste is a problem for the cost-effectiveness of the
process.
[0005] In this context, it is the technical object underlying the present invention to provide
a method which allows the reuse of waste from the silk industry, as well as of discarded
silk clothing or underwear, to obtain a product of high quality and technical features.
[0006] The specified technical object is substantially achieved by a method for manufacturing
a silk textile padding product, possibly blended with other fibers and/or feathers,
wherein said method comprises the technical features set out in one or more of the
appended claims, the definitions of which form an integral part of the present description.
[0007] Further features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent
in the indicative and therefore non-limiting description of a preferred, but not exclusive
embodiment of the invention, with reference to the drawings, in which:
figure 1 is a diagrammatic view of a system for carrying out the method according
to the invention;
figure 2 is a simplified side view of a first detail of the system in figure 1;
figure 3 is a simplified side view, according to direction A in figure 2, of a second
detail of the system in figure 1;
figure 4 is a simplified side view, according to direction B in figure 3, of a third
detail of the system in figure 1;
figure 5 is a simplified side view of a garnett machine of the system according to
the invention;
figure 6 is a simplified side view of the carding willow of the system according to
the invention;
figure 7 is a simplified side view of a lubricating tank of the system according to
the invention;
figure 8A is a simplified side view of a textile sizing machine of the system according
to the invention;
figure 8B is a simplified side view of the textile sizing machine in figure 8A, according
to direction C in figure 8A;
figure 9 is a simplified side view of a condenser of the system according to the invention;
figure 10 is a simplified cross-section side view of an alternative machine which
can be used in the step of garnetting.
[0008] The method for manufacturing a textile padding product according to the present invention
uses as input material:
- silk processing waste, such as finished fabrics, dyed or not dyed, printed fabrics
and the like,
- used clothing, garments, underwear or the like made of silk.
[0009] The method comprises the following operational steps:
- a) cutting the input material made of silk to obtain pieces of fabric;
- b) garnetting pieces of fabric of step a) to obtain a silk fiber staple;
- c) optionally, blending the silk fiber staple with fibers other than silk and/or feathers
in defined amounts;
- d) lubricating the silk fiber staple of the step b) or of the blend of step c);
- e) carding the lubricated staple material output from step d);
- f) textile sizing the carded textile material of step e) by providing overlapping
staple tissues of crossed fibers;
- g) quilting or needling the overlapping and crossed staple tissues of step f) to obtain
a padding material.
[0010] The method of the invention will now be described in detail with reference to the
figures, which illustrate a system 1 for implementing such a method and the individual
parts of the system itself, with the sole exception of the machine for the step g)
of quilting or needling.
[0011] With reference to figure 1, the
step a) of cutting the input material is performed in a cutting unit 2 which comprises:
- a first conveyor 3a operatively associated with a first cutting machine 4a, and
- a second conveyor 3b, arranged orthogonally downstream of the first conveyor 3a, the
second conveyor 3b being operatively associated with a second cutter machine 4b.
[0012] The cutting machines 4a, 4b, of the known and commercially available type, comprise
a pair of presser cylinders which withhold the input material and a rotating blade
drum (typically two or three blades) in contrast with a fixed blade, to cut the input
material into fixed dimensions. The first cutting machine 4a obtains strips of fabric,
which are placed transversely on the second conveyor 3b. In such a manner, the strips
of fabric are cut orthogonally by the second cutting machine 4b to provide pieces
of fabric of rectangular-shape. Preferably, such fabric rectangles have dimensions
of 80-100 mm x 120-150 mm.
[0013] With reference to Figures 1, 2 and 5, the
step b) is performed in a garnetting unit which comprises a garnett machine 5. The step of
garnetting allows to obtain the mechanical separation of the threads forming the pieces
of fabric and of the fibers forming said threads. Upon leaving the step of garnetting
(b), a silk fiber staple is obtained, preferably composed of fibers from 18 to 25
mm in length.
[0014] The garnetting unit, of the type known per se, is formed as a whole by:
- a loader 6 of the silk fabric pieces, and
- said garnett machine 5.
[0015] The loader 6 comprises:
- i) a flat belt,
- ii) a wired belt,
- iii) one or two metal reels or combs.
[0016] The flat belt has the function of pushing the pieces of silk fabric towards the wired
belt inclined between 60° and 80°.
[0017] The wired belt has the function of a loading belt to transfer the pieces of silk
fabric to a feeding table of the garnett machine 5.
[0018] The reels or combs are cylinders or studded bars which dose the pieces of silk fabric
fed by loading wired belt and which detach them therefrom by sending them to the feeding
belt of the garnett machine 5.
[0019] Thereby, the constant and uniform loading of the garnett machine 5 is achieved. Preferably,
a series of maximum and minimum level photocells detect the thickness of the input
material, modify the speed of the feeding belts or control, through a control unit
with which they are operationally associated, the temporary suspension of the input
of the fabric pieces from cutting unit 2 to the loader 6.
[0020] The garnett machine 5 (figure 5), of known and commercial type, comprises a feeding
table 7, three or four carding assemblies 8, each comprising a plurality of pairs
of working cylinders/strippers 9 of equal diameter and arranged adjacent to each other,
coupled to a main drum 10.
[0021] The garnett machine 5 also comprises taker-in cylinders 109 (typically two cylinders),
a cleaner cylinder 110, a doffer cylinder 111, flywheels 112 and combers 113, in a
configuration known in the art.
[0022] The garnett machine 5 is also provided with a rigid liner adapted to work the silk
fiber, to open the fibers and orient them in one direction. This will prevent the
formation of tangles of fibers of different lengths known as "neps". The type of rigid
lining is chosen according to the pitch, thickness, inclination, density and population/cm
2 best suited to open the pieces of silk fabric.
[0023] A fleece doffing comb 114, which has the function of detaching the frayed fiber staple
tissue from the last comber, is arranged in the final portion of the garnett machine
5. This is how silk staple fibers are obtained.
[0024] Alternatively, with reference to figure 10, step b) of garnetting may be carried
out in a double carding opener 205, comprising two successive working assemblies,
in which the first section 205a comprises two entrance cylinders 206, a main drum
210a and three working cylinders 209, all covered with a rigid lining, while the second
section 205b consists of one opening drum 210b and five working cylinders 209, also
covered with rigid lining.
[0025] The distinctive feature of this machine is its flexibility of application, by virtue
of all possible fitting combinations and the several speed and distance adjustments
between the cylinders and drums, which allows to process a wide variety of textile
materials.
[0026] The garnett machine 5 is connected downstream, through a pipeline 11 and a hopper
11a, to a condenser 12 placed above a first storage tank 13.
[0027] With reference to figures 2, 3 and 9, the condenser 12, also of the known and commercial
type, comprises a vacuum source 14, typically a centrifugal fan, connected, through
a special pipe 15, to a perforated cylinder 16 with a horizontal axis, placed inside
a containment casing 17. The hopper 11a leads into the containment casing 17, in its
upper portion, and is put under vacuum through the holes of the perforated cylinder
16.
[0028] The perforated cylinder 16 is rotatable around its horizontal axis and is separated
into two semi-cylindrical portions 16a, 16b by means of a bulkhead 18 so that the
vacuum pipe 15 leads into only one of the two portions 16a, 16b, when one of these
portions 16a, 16b is in its upper position (as shown in Figure 9).
[0029] The silk fiber staple coming out of the garnett machine 5 is then sucked into the
containment casing 17 and then into the semi-cylindrical portion 16a placed on top.
When, by rotation of the perforated cylinder 16, the portion 16a turns downwards and
is therefore no longer under vacuum from the vacuum source 14, the silk fiber staple
falls by gravity into the first storage tank 13. At the same time, the other semi-cylindrical
portion 16b is arranged upwards and under vacuum, so that it will be filled with silk
fiber staple, which it will then release when the rotation of the perforated cylinder
16 brings it downwards, and so forth.
[0030] This pneumatic conveying system avoids the contact of the fibers with the fan blades
which, by friction, would form neps on the finest fibers, causing roping phenomena
on the longest fibers.
[0031] With reference to figures 1, 3 and 6, the optional
step c) of blending the silk fiber staple with fibers other than silk and/or feathers is
performed in a blending unit 19 by a carding willow 20, to make the fiber blend more
homogeneous.
[0032] Various types of fibers can be used, either natural, man-made or synthetic.
[0033] Natural fibers other than silk which can be used in the method of the invention are
linen, cotton, hemp, wool, angora, cashmere, mohair, and vicuña.
[0034] The term "man-made fibers" means fibers obtained from a yarn of natural substances
which are normally not spun. Specific examples of man-made fibers are those obtained
from cellulosic fibers, such as rayon viscose, cuprammonium rayon, cellulose nitrate,
cellulose diacetate, and cellulose triacetate.
[0035] The term "synthetic fibers" means non-natural fibers derived from chemical processes.
Specific examples of synthetic fibers are acrylic, nylon (polyamide), polyester, aramids
(Kevlar®), polytetrafluoroethylene (Gore-tex®) and polyurethane (Elastam®).
[0036] The feathers are typically goose or duck feathers or duck neck down.
[0037] The percentage by weight of silk fiber staple with respect to the weight of fibers
other than silk and/or of feathers is in the 40-99% range, preferably 50-90%, more
preferably 60-80%.
[0038] The fibers other than silk and/or feathers can be dosed manually by weighing, then
added to the first storage tank 13.
[0039] From the first storage tank 13, the blend thus formed is transferred to the carding
willow machine 20 through a condenser 12' which is very similar to the condenser 12
described above.
[0040] The carding willow machine 20 is entirely similar to a carding assembly, consisting
of feeding belt 20a, taker-in cylinders, working cylinders 21, clearers, drum 22,
and unloading reel. The studs with which it is equipped are large, sturdy and sparse
and their purpose is to open and blend the transiting fiber blocks.
[0041] Downstream of the blending unit 19 is a lubricating unit 23, into which the blend
of silk fiber staple and other fibers and/or feathers is directly transferred from
the carding willow 20.
[0042] With reference to figures 1, 3 and 7, the lubricating unit 23 comprises a lubricating
cell 24 and a condenser 12" placed above lubricating cell 24, for the direct transfer
of the silk fiber staple from storage tank 13 to lubricating cell 24, if step c) is
omitted (100% silk fiber staple).
[0043] In some embodiments, the three condensers 12, 12', 12" may be replaced by a single
condenser 12, which can be moved, according to requirements, from the position on
the first storage tank 13 to the position on the carding willow 20 (if the method
comprises the aforesaid step c)) or to the position on the lubricating cell 24 (if
step c) is omitted).
[0044] The
step d) of lubricating is an operation known per se in the textile industry, in particular
in the processing of wool, and provides the treatment of the silk fiber staple, or
of the blend of silk fiber staple with other fibers and/or feather, with a stable
emulsion of water, oils and antistatic and cohesive substances, with the aim of increasing
the inter-fibrous coefficient of friction, promoting the cohesion of the card staple
tissue, and decreasing that between the material and the metal linings of the machines.
[0045] An example of composition which can be used in the step of lubricating is as follows:
2 - 3 cc/liter of antistatic substance;
2 - 3 cc/liter of synthetic lubricating blend with vegetable oils;
Water q.s.
[0046] The solution is prepared by first pouring cold water into the blending container
and, under stirring, adding the synthetic lubrication and antistatic mixture.
[0047] The quantity of solution to be prepared is 4% by weight of the material to be processed.
[0048] The lubrication cell 24 comprises a lubrication tank 25, in which the silk fiber
staple or the blend of silk fiber staple with other fibers and/or feather is loaded,
and a series of atomizing nozzles 26 which spray the lubrication emulsion from a tank
27 from which a pump 28 draws onto the fibers inside the tank 25.
[0049] The silk fiber staple or the blend of silk fiber staple with other fibers and/or
feathers coming out of the lubrication unit 23 is sucked, through a tube 29, into
a condenser 12", similar to the condenser 12 described above, which conveys it to
a second storage tank 30.
[0050] The silk fiber staple or the blend of silk fiber staple with other fibers and/or
feathers is then transferred from the second storage tank 30 to the
step e) of carding, comprising a carding machine 31, by means of an electronic loader 32
which provides a regular and homogeneous feed to ensure a constant weight of the final
product.
[0051] The loader 32, which is a commercial machine known per se, comprises:
- a flat belt, placed on the bottom of the loader 32, which pushes forward the silk
fiber staple or the blend of silk fiber staple with other fibers and/or feathers;
- a loading wired belt, which receives the silk fiber staple or the silk fiber staple
blend with other fibers and/or feathers from the flat belt and transports it to a
precision scale until it reaches a predefined weight for a predefined time;
- a dosing wired belt, which doses the amount of silk fiber staple or the blend of silk
fiber staple with other fibers and/or feathers that the loading wire belt engages
during the transfer;
- an unloading wired belt, which drops the silk fiber staple or the blend of silk fiber
staple with other fibers and/or feather onto the scale provided with an electronic
load cell.
[0052] This operation, which is controlled by a control unit, allows to obtain, as said,
a homogeneous weight of the material which is fed into the carding machine 31.
[0053] The carding machine 31, known per se and commercially available itself comprises
two taker-in cylinders 131 and an air blade to keep them clean and to direct the fiber
to the doffer 132 without creating unwanted accumulations. Then, through the action
of a conveyor cylinder 133, the diluted fiber will be transferred to the large drum
34 to begin the actual carding process. More precisely, the carding process consists
of the intimate blending between the fibers and aims to orient the fibers in one direction,
parallel to the working axis. This process can be achieved through the carding action
which takes place between the large drum 34 and a plurality of working cylinders 33
(with a larger diameter than the working cylinders 8 of the garnett machine 5). The
working cylinder 33, in addition to orienting the fibers in the same direction, acts
as a temporary storage of fibers which, through the clearer, are then reinserted on
the large drum 34 and overlapping on those transiting on its surface. It is precisely
the different peripheral speed between large drum 34 (about 400 m/min) and working
cylinder 33 (about 7 m/min) which allows the overlapping of the fibers. The more the
carding units mounted on the machine, the greater will be the carding effect.
[0054] At the end of the processing, a fleece doffing comb 114 removes a very thin and impalpable
layer of fibers which is sent to the step of textile sizing.
[0055] The
step f) of textile sizing allows to obtain overlapping staple tissues of crossed fibers by
means of a band-feed machine 35, diagrammatically shown in figure 4 and 8.
[0056] The band-feed machine 35 is known and described in international PCT application
published with number
WO 2016/189360 to NUOVA COSMATEX s.r.l.
[0057] Briefly, the band-feed machine 35 allows to overlap, cross and transfer textile fibers
and comprises:
- a first conveyor belt 36 for conveying a staple tissue of input textile fibers;
- a depositing device 135 of the staple tissue for receiving the textile fibers coming
from the first conveyor belt and depositing them on a second conveyor belt 136, wherein
the depositing device moves in a reciprocating manner along a direction X;
- the second conveyor belt 136 is adapted to move the textile fibers along a direction
Y perpendicular to the direction X, with reciprocating motion forwards and backwards,
wherein, in the complex of motion, the forward component is predominant with respect
to the backward one so as to produce a flow of textile fibers which are overlapping
and crossed;
- a laying device 138 of the overlapping staple tissues and a conveyor system 137 to
remove the overlapping and crossed textile fibers from the band-feed machine 35.
[0058] The
step g) of quilting or needling the overlapping and crossed staple tissues at the exit of
step f) is a method which allows the overlapping and crossed veils to be joined to
form a padding material according to the invention. The choice of quilting rather
than needling depends on the desired volume and compactness.
[0059] Needling is the process by which compactness is given to the fiber mat obtained by
overlapping several layers of staple tissue at the exit of the band-feed machine 35
through vertical movement of the needles. The result is a textile material provided
with a given consistency due to the penetration of part of the fibers dragged vertically
by the motion of the needles.
[0060] Such an operation is performed in a conventional machine (not shown) which comprises
a plate (needle table) which is as long as the size of the desired product, moved
alternately from top to bottom at high speed, equipped with long needles characterized
by the presence of hooks or serrations.
[0061] The needles quilt the fiber mat, dragging them partially therewith and making them
penetrate and be cohesive. There are two perforated plates at the needle table, between
which the fiber mat being processed passes: the lower one, said needling plate, has
the function of supporting the mat during needling, while the upper one, referred
to as the stripping plate, is used to prevent the needle from dragging the fibers
during its ascending motion. The population and type of needles, the number of movements
of the plate per minute, the depth of movement and the product feed rate are adjustable
according to needs.
[0062] The quilting operation, on the other hand, is performed by binding the textile structures
together through stitches appropriately arranged and distanced.
[0063] The process according to the invention allows to obtain padding material based on
silk fiber staple or blend of silk fiber staple and other fibers and/or feathers in
the form of mat, adapted to be used as a padding for garments, duvets and similar
products.
[0064] The high percentage (up to 100%) of silk fibers allows to obtain high features of
lightness, transpiration and thermoregulation. At the same time, the use of silk from
waste or discarded textile products creates a circular economy model, virtuously recycles
waste and reduces the cost of raw material acquisition.
[0065] It is apparent that only some particular embodiments of the present invention have
been described, to which those skilled in the art will be able to make all changes
required to adapt it to particular applications, without departing from the scope
of protection of the present invention.
1. A method for manufacturing a textile padding product, comprising the following operational
steps:
a) cutting the input material made of silk to obtain pieces of fabric;
b) garnetting pieces of fabric of step a) to obtain a silk fiber staple;
c) optionally, blending the silk fiber staple with fibers other than silk and/or feathers
in defined amounts;
d) lubricating the silk fiber staple of the step b) or of the blend of step c);
e) carding the lubricated staple material output from step d);
f) textile sizing the carded textile material of step e) by providing overlapping
staple tissues of crossed fibers;
g) quilting or needling the overlapping and crossed staple tissues of step f) to obtain
a padding material.
2. The method according to claim 1, wherein the input material is chosen from:
- silk processing waste, such as finished fabrics, dyed or not dyed, printed fabrics
and the like,
- used clothing, garments, underwear or the like made of silk.
3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the
step a) of cutting the input material is performed in a cutting unit (2) which comprises:
- a first conveyor (3a) operatively associated with a first cutting machine (4a),
and
- a second conveyor (3b), arranged orthogonally downstream of the first conveyor (3a),
the second conveyor (3b) being operatively associated with a second cutter machine
(4b),
in order to obtain pieces of fabric preferably in rectangular shape, more preferably
having size of 80-100 mm x 120-150 mm.
4. The method according to any one of claims from 1 to 3, wherein
step b) is performed in a garnetting unit which comprises a loader (6) of the pieces of silk
fabric and a garnetting machine (5), in which:
- the loader (6) comprises i) a flat belt, ii) a wired belt and iii) one or two metal
reels or combs;
- the garnett machine (5) comprises a feeding table (7), carding assemblies (8), each
comprising a plurality of pairs of working cylinders/strippers (9) of equal diameter
arranged mutually adjacently, coupled to a main drum (10), the garnett machine (5)
may also be provided with a rigid seal adapted to work the silk fiber so as to open
the fibers and orient them towards a direction.
5. The method according to any one of claims from 1 to 4, wherein the optional step c) of mixing the silk fiber staple with fibers other than silk and/or feather is performed
in a mixing unit (19) by means of a carding willow machine (20).
6. The method according to any one of claims from 1 to 5, wherein in the optional step
c), the feather is goose or duck feather or goose or duck neck down and/or the fibers
other than silk are chosen among:
- natural fibers, such as linen, cotton, hemp, wool, angora, cashmere, mohair and
vicuña fibers;
- man-made fibers, such as cellulosic fibers, such as rayon viscose, cuprammonium
rayon, cellulose nitrate, cellulose diacetate and cellulose triacetate;
- synthetic fibers, such as acrylic, nylon (polyamide), polyester, aramid, polytetrafluoroethylene
and polyurethane.
7. The method according to any one of claims from 1 to 6, wherein the percentage by weight
of silk fiber staple with respect to the weight of fibers other than silk and/or of
feathers is in the 40-99% range, preferably 50-90%, more preferably 60-80%.
8. The method according to any one of claims from 1 to 7, wherein step d) of lubricating comprises treating the silk fiber staple, or the mixture of silk fiber
staple with other fibers and/or feather, with a stable emulsion of water, oils and
antistatic and cohesive substances.
9. The method according to any one of claims from 1 to 8, wherein the
step f) of textile sizing is performed in a band-feed machine (35) comprising:
- a first conveyor belt (36) for conveying a web of input textile fibers;
- a laying device for receiving the textile fibers coming from the first conveyor
belt and depositing them on a second conveyor belt, wherein the laying device moves
in alternating manner along a first direction (X);
- the second conveyor belt is adapted to move the textile fibers along a direction
(Y) perpendicular to the first direction (X), with reciprocating motion forwards and
backwards, wherein, in the complex of motion, the forward component is predominant
with respect to the backward one so as to produce a flow of textile fibers which are
overlapping and crossed;
- a conveyor system to remove the overlapping and crossed textile fibers from the
band-feed machine (35).
10. A padding material based on silk fiber staple or blend of silk fiber staple and other
fibers and/or feather in the form of a mat, wherein the amount by weight of silk fibers
is comprised between 40% and 100%.