[0001] This invention relates to cellulosic fibers, containing incorporated indigo pigments
in the oxidized form, wherein the fibers are made according to a modal process, show
a tenacity (conditioned) measured according to BISFA of at least 29cN/tex and a wet
modulus measured according to BISFA of at least 5cN/tex/% at 5% elongation. Furthermore
the invention relates to the manufacture and the use of such fibers in fabrics and
garments (footwear, etc).
Prior Art
[0002] Natural or manmade cellulosic fibres and articles made from them such as yarns or
fabrics can be dyed using a number of dye classes. The most common dye types used
are reactive, where the dyes chemically react with the hydroxyl groups on the cellulose
molecules which make up the fibre. This creates a covalent linkage which gives this
type of dye high fastness properties. Reactive dyes are the most common because they
give a high degree of fastness and a full shade range. As well as with reactive dyes,
cellulosic fibres can be coloured with other dye types such as direct, vat or sulphur
dyes.
[0003] One of the most important vat dyes is indigo (CI Vat Blue 1).
Indigo is used to colour yarns that subsequently are used to produce indigo denim
fabrics. Spun warp yarns are first prepared into beams and then dyed with indigo (CI
Vat Blue 1) prior to weaving the fabric. Preparation of yarn is normally simple scouring
to remove any impurities but can include such chemical treatments such as caustic
soda treatments. Indigo can be applied by a number of methods but application to yarn
via Rope or Slasher applications account for the vast majority.
[0004] Indigo dye is insoluble in water so is first converted into the soluble, so called
"leuco" form using an alkaline reduction system using sodium hydroxide and sodium
dithionite. This leuco indigo has low substantivity for cellulose, hence only pale
depths are obtainable by exhaust dyeing procedures. Indigo is therefore applied in
a series of dips, with intermediate squeezing and atmospheric oxidation. By repeating
the process, dye is applied to the substrate layer by layer to give deep dyeings with
relatively low rubbing fastness.
[0005] In rope dyeing the cellulosic warp yarns are extended along the range in the form
of a rope. Yarn groups are typically 300-400 ends called ropes or cables. In slasher
dyeing the warp yarns are extended flatly and separately and arranged parallel to
each other. Indigo can also be dyed batchwise or in a fabric form, usually continuously.
Batchwise dyeing of hanks of yarn can be carried out in becks with repeated short
dips, followed by squeezing and atmospheric oxidation, although these applications
are far less common.
[0006] The most common denim is derived from coloured warp while the weft thread is left
white. As result of the warp faced twill weaving one side of the textile is dominated
by the blue warp threads and the other side is dominated by the white weft threads.
The indigo dyeing process, in which the core of the warp threads remains white, creates
denim's signature fading characteristics.
[0007] Other vat dyes and sulphur dyes can also be used to colour yarns or fabrics.
[0008] The dyestuffs used to colour cellulosic fibres and articles made from them cannot
normally be used to colour fibres (e.g. viscose, modal) during the fibre spinning
process. The introduction of reactive dyes into the dope used to produce lyocell fibres
have been found to adversely affect the stability of the process and is not acceptable
for process safety reasons.
[0009] Indigo-dyed denim has some properties which are disadvantageous to some extent and
to some requirements (while they are indeed highly welcome to others): Fastness to
rubbing and washing is quite poor as the dyestuff is only at the outer surface of
the cotton fibers. Denim articles show wash-down effect by losing indigo after washing
and laundry treatments (bleaching, oxidizing, etc).
[0010] Denim laundries use various methods to give a variety of effects such as bleached,
worn-down and faded look onto the denim fabrics. Historically bleaching chemicals
such as hydrogen peroxide, hypochlorite and permanganate have been used mainly. Recent
sustainable options for denim laundry are laser and ozone treatments. Laser light
sublimates dye from the fabric surface to give faded and used look as well as to mark
certain design patterns. Ozone gas is used to bleach the denim garments via its high
oxidation potential.
[0011] Another very big disadvantage is the dyeing process for common denim products: The
dyeing with the indigo is performed on the yarn. This process is not only very expensive
but potentially heavily polluting the environment, in particular the waste water of
the dyehouses.
[0012] A solution to this problem was the incorporation of Indigo pigment of natural or
synthetic origin in the oxidized, i.e. blue, form or other dyestuff type imitating
the colour and laundry wash-down of indigo into viscose fibers during spinning. Such
fibers are marketed under the term "Viscose Indigo". However, Viscose Indigo has a
relatively low mechanical strength, in particular in the wet state. Therefore Viscose
Indigo fibers are usually blended with significant quantities of polyester fibers.
Garments made using such blend yarns show some significant disadvantages: Due to the
high content of synthetic fibers the wear comfort is reduced in comparison to garments
consisting of 100% cellulosic fibers. Furthermore there may be a need to dye the polyester
fiber component as well; however this fiber type needs a different type of dyestuff
which is unsuitable for cellulose.
Problem
[0013] In view of this prior art the problem to be solved consisted in providing a fiber
which is suitable to create a denim appearance but shows improved rub fastness while
providing a good wear comfort to the garments made of it.
Description
[0014] It is an object of the present invention to provide cellulosic fibers, containing
incorporated indigo pigments in the oxidized form, wherein the fibers are made according
to a modal process, show a tenacity (conditioned), also called "breaking force", measured
according to BISFA of at least 29cN/tex, a wet modulus measured according to BISFA
of at least 5cN/tex/% at 5% elongation. Both properties are measured according to
the methods as described in the BISFA booklet "
Testing methods viscose, modal, lyocell and acetate staple fibers and tows", 2004
edition. In a preferred embodiment of the invention the fibers according to the invention
fulfill the requirements for a modal fiber according to BISFA (see
BISFA Terminology, 2009 edition), which includes that these mechanical properties depend on the titer of the fibers.
This means that a fiber of 1.3 dtex according to the invention will show a tenacity
(conditioned) of at least 31.4 cN/tex and a wet modulus (wet) of at least 4.39 cN/tex/%
at 5% elongation. A fiber of 1.5dtex according to the invention will show a tenacity
(conditioned) of at least 30.61 cN/tex and a wet modulus (wet) of at least 4.8 cN/tex/%
at 5% elongation.
[0015] Preferably the indigo pigment contains a very low content of aniline of less than
50ppm, preferably less than 25ppm and even more preferably less than 20ppm.
[0016] Preferably the fibers according to the invention contain between 0.5 and 4.0 % (w/w)
of the indigo pigment, especially preferred between 1.8 and 3.0 % (w/w), related to
the total weight of bone dry fiber. Lower indigo pigment content would not provide
for sufficiently deep color of the fibers and higher indigo pigment contents would
reduce the mechanical strength of the fiber.
[0017] The fibers can be made as follows by a process in analogy to the FR pigment incorporated
cellulose fiber process as disclosed in
AT 287905 B: A viscose with a content of 4 to 7% cellulose, 5 to 10% NaOH, 36 to 42% (in relation
to cellulose) carbon disulphide and 1 to 5% (in relation to cellulose) of a modification
agent was made. It showed a spinning gamma value of 50 to 68 and a spinning viscosity
of 50 to 120 ballfall seconds; and an alkali ratio (=cellulose concentration/alkali
content) of the viscose ready for spinning of between 0.7 and 1.5. An indigo pigment
with very low aniline content in the oxidized form was incorporated during spinning
in the form of a pigment masterbatch dispersion, in an amount suitable to obtain an
final concentration in the fiber of between 0.5 and 4.0 % (w/w) of the indigo pigment,
especially preferred between 1.8 and 3.0 % (w/w), related to the total weight of bone
dry fiber. The indigo-containing viscose was extruded through spinning nozzles into
a spinning bath showing a temperature of between 34 to 48°C and the following spinning
bath concentrations: H
2S0
4=68-90g/l, Na
2S0
4=90-160g/l, ZnS0
4=30-65g/l. The coagulated threads were drawn off from the spinning bath at a speed
between 15 and 60m/min. The coagulated, drawn threads were further washed thoroughly
and cut into staple fibers, having a titer of 1.3dtex and a length of 38mm. For the
purpose of the examples in this patent these fibers are hereinafter referred to as
"Modal Indigo".
[0018] According to the invention the indigo pigment is incorporated inside the whole cross-section
of the fiber. I.e. a microphoto of the cross-section of the fiber shows pigments distributed
over the whole area for the cross-section, while conventionally dyed cellulosic fibers
show indigo pigments only on the outer surface of the fibers. Surprisingly the bleeding
rate of the indigo pigment in the fibers according to the invention is significantly
lower than the bleeding rate of the indigo pigment in Viscose Indigo.
[0019] Another aspect of the invention is the use of the fiber according to the invention
as described above for the manufacture of a fabric (knits, wovens, seamless, etc)
with denim appearance, given by laundry effects such as laser and ozone. Preferably
this colored fiber is used in the warp while ecru (i.e. undyed) fibers are used in
the weft of the woven fabric to imitate the conventional denim fabrics.
[0020] In order to achieve different aesthetics and wear comfort for the consumer, this
colored fiber can be used in the weft while warp yarn can contain conventional indigo-dyed
cellulose fiber. In such product indigo-colored modal fiber is on the skin side by
bringing the softness, i.e.comfort, of the modal fiber. Wash-down of the warp side
would behave differently than using an ecru (i.e. undyed) fiber causing darker shades
on the warp side.
[0021] Preferably this fabric is a textile fabric with denim appearance that contains between
40 and 100% (w/w) of the fibers according to the invention as described above.
[0022] In a preferred embodiment of the invention the fabric shows a rub fastness according
to ISO 105-X12:2016 of between 4.0 and 5.0. A typically yarn-dyed denim shows a rub
fastness of about 3.0.
[0023] In a preferred embodiment of the invention the fabric is a woven fabric. Preferably
this fabric contains in the warp between 80 and 100% (w/w), preferably between 95
and 100% (w/w), of the fibers according to the invention. This will result in the
typical denim appearance, especially in twill weaving where one side of the textile
is dominated by the blue warp threads and the other side is dominated by the white
weft threads. This fabric may show a shrinkage at washing according to ISO 6330 and
shrinkage test according to ONORM ISO 3759 of lower than 5.0%.
[0024] In another preferred embodiment of the invention is a knit fabric. Preferably this
fabric shows a shrinkage at washing according to ISO 6330 and shrinkage test according
to ONORM ISO 3759 of lower than 12.0%.
[0025] Yet another aspect of the invention is a method for manufacturing a fiber according
to the invention as described above that includes the steps:
- a. Preparation of a Modal spinning solution,
- b. Preparation of indigo pigments in the oxidized form,
- c. Adding the indigo pigments to the Modal spinning solution
- d. Extruding the solution of step c. into a coagulation bath according to a Modal
spinning process
[0027] Preferably the indigo pigment is added to the Modal spinning solution in the form
of a masterbatch, with an indigo pigment content of e.g. 20% (w/w) in the masterbatch
suspension. E.g. to obtain 0.5 to 4.0% (w/w) indigo pigment in the final fiber, 2.7
to 20.0% ((w/w), related to the dissolved cellulose) of masterbatch suspension has
to be added to the Modal spinning solution, if using a masterbatch containing 20%
(w/w) indigo pigment.
[0028] Surprisingly it was found that the fibers according to the invention further have
a much lower bleeding rate than other spun-dyed modal fibers. The bleeding rate of
Modal Indigo is also lower than that of Viscose Indigo while the mechanical textile
properties are on the much higher level of modal fibers, compared to viscose fibers.
[0029] Further, surprisingly it was found that indigo pigments in the oxidized form keep
their typical blue color very stable if they are incorporated in the cellulosic man-made
fiber according to the invention, although the dye is very sensitive against oxidation
if it is applied on e.g. cotton by conventional denim indigo dyeing.
DENIM LAUNDRY
[0030] With regular, in denim laundry commercially applied hypochlorite bleaching treatments
(e.g. 2g/l soda, 3g/l sodium hypochlorite; 30min at 30°C, warm and cold rinse, dechlorination
with 0.8g/l H
2O
2- 30 min at 40°C, warm and cold rinse) as well as with strong peroxide bleaching treatments
(e.g. 4g/l peroxide, 4g/l NaOH, 90°C for 30min, followed by neutralization (1g/l acetic
acid)) little effect was observed.
[0031] Enhancing the hypochlorite concentration (4g/l sodium hypochlorite, 40°C, 10min,
followed by neutralization (3g/l sodium thiosulphate, 30°C, 10min)) could provide
a slight effect. However, this treatment is not recommended considering the high amount
of chemical used to obtain very small effect on the product.
[0032] However, denim laundry conditions using permanganates (e.g. 4g/l potassium permanganate,
40°C, 10min, followed by neutralization (2g/l metabisulphite, 40°C, 10min) were very
effective to remove indigo from spun-dyed Modal Indigo product.
[0033] Also local bleach effects with potassium permanganate by spraying 20g/l potassium
permanganate solution and drying in the air (or at 80°C in a stenter frame dryer),
followed by washing the fabric in sodium dithionite solution (1 - 4g/l) for 20 minutes
at 40°C, gave significantly visible results.
[0034] Significant visible results were also obtained on the fibers according to the invention
by ozone treatment (50% G2 Lab machine, ozone gas conc: 45 gr/Nm3, 15min, 30min or
45min) as well as by laser marking (using machinery of Jeanologia) for example 40-150tpx
(time per pixel).
HOME LAUNDRY
[0035] Home-laundry washing (water and detergent) of conventional denim articles cause indigo
dyestuff to lose from the fabric in that faded look appears after each washing cycle.
Therefore conventional denim products do not have color retention after home-laundry
washes.
[0036] Indigo dyestuff trapped in the spun-dyed Modal-Indigo fiber is not lost during home-laundry
washes. Our studies have shown that 30 home-laundry washes didn't cause color loss
on spun-dyed Modal Indigo garments therefore color retention was proven. For home-laundry
washing test, commercial home-laundry detergent (Fewa Color) was used and spun-dyed
Modal Indigo garments (knits and woven) were washed at 40°C and flat or tumble dried.
[0037] Briefly faded, wash-down or similar looks on the spun-dyed Modal Indigo product can
only be given by commercial denim laundries (laser, ozone, permanganate, etc). Such
garment effect/look will be kept during the consumer life of garment as indigo is
not removed with home-laundry washing. This property differentiates indigo spun-dyed
modal product from conventional dyed indigo dyed products in the market.
[0038] Preferred uses of the fibers according to the invention are:
- Denim-type woven fabric constructions, in particular denim fabrics with an area weight
of more than 100 g/m2.
- Woven-type fabric constructions, light-weight fabrics in particular shirting, dresses,
etc with an area weight of more than 80 g/m2
- Knitwear including seamless, in particular tops, bottoms, underwear, but also other
garments, shoes, bags made of or containing textile fabrics etc..
[0039] In all of these applications Modal Indigo shows a much better performance than Viscose
Indigo owing to its lower shrinkage and higher strength. In all of these applications
the low bleeding tendency of the fibers according to the invention may be an advantage.
[0040] The invention will now be illustrated by examples. These examples are not limiting
the scope of the invention in any way. The invention includes also any other embodiments
which are based on the same inventive concept
Examples
Example 1: Manufacture of an indigo-containing spun-dyed modal fiber:
[0041] The incorporated cellulose fiber was made as follows by a process in analogy to the
FR pigment incorporated cellulose fiber process as disclosed in
AT 287905 B:
A viscose with a content of 6% cellulose, 7% NaOH, 39% (in relation to cellulose)
carbon disulphide and 3% (in relation to cellulose) of a modification agent was made.
It showed a spinning gamma value of 57 and a spinning viscosity of 80 ballfall seconds.
2.3% (w/w), related to the cellulose content of the spinning solution, of indigo pigment
with very low aniline content in the oxidized form was incorporated during spinning
in the form of a pigment masterbatch, containing 20% (w/w) of pigment. The indigo-containing
viscose was extruded through spinning nozzles into a spinning bath showing a temperature
of 38°C and the following spinning bath concentrations:
H
2S0
4=72 g/l, Na
2S0
4=120 g/l, ZnS0
4=60 g/l. The coagulated threads were drawn off from the spinning bath at a speed between
45 m/min. The coagulated, drawn threads were further washed thoroughly and cutted
into staple fibers, having a titer of 1.58 dtex and a length of 38 mm. The tenacity
(conditioned) was 32.1 cN/tex and the wet modulus (wet) was 5.5 cN/tex/% at 5% elongation.
Elongation at break was 15.5%. All mechanical properties were measured according to
the methods as described in the BISFA booklet "
Testing methods viscose, modal, lyocell and acetate staple fibers and tows", 2004
edition. For the purpose of the examples in this patent these fibers are hereinafter referred
to as "Modal Indigo".
Example 2: Properties of fabrics containing the fibers according to the invention and their
properties
[0042] Three fabrics were made as follows, using the fibers of Example 1; yarns of the fibers
were spun by rotor yarn spinning machines:
2.a.: Jeans bottom-weight fabric
- Warp: Modal Indigo yarn, Ne 11
- Weft: Cotton/Elastane (98%/2%) yarn, Ne 15
- 3/1 RHT fabric construction; 7ends/cm, 20picks/cm
2.b.: Shirting weight fabric
- Warp: Modal Indigo yarn, Ne 24/1
- Weft: Cotton, Ne 15
- 2/1 RHT fabric construction; 185 gsm
2.c.: Knit top fabric
- Modal Indigo yarn Ne 24
- Single jersey fabric construction with 2% elastane; 185 gsm
[0043] These fabrics were tested for several properties as follows:
Rub fastness was measured according to ISO 105-X12:2016 (1 = worst; 5 = best); see Table 1:
Table 1:
| Fabric |
Dry |
Wet |
| 2.b |
4-5 |
4-5 |
| 2.c |
4-5 |
4 |
[0044] Both fabrics with the fibers according to the invention showed very good rub fastness
properties.
[0045] Wash fastness was measured according to ISO 105-C10:2006 The fabric was washed together with a
white cotton resp. white modal fabric and the staining was evaluated on a color scale
(1 = worst fastness; 5 = best fastness)); see Table 2:
Table 2:
| |
Color of the fabric before washing |
Staining on modal stripe |
Staining on cotton stripe |
| Denim |
45 |
4-5 |
5 |
| Knit |
4 |
5 |
5 |
[0046] Both fabrics with the fibers according to the invention showed very good wash fastness
properties.
[0047] Shrinkage was measured according to ONORM ISO 3759:2011 after washing of the samples according
to ISO 6330:2012. The tested woven fabric was the denim fabric of Example 2.a. with
Modal Indigo and a denim fabric made in the same way, but containing Viscose Indigo
instead of Modal Indigo. The tested knitted fabric was the fabric of Example 2.c.
with Modal Indigo and a knitted fabric made in the same way, but containing Viscose
Indigo instead of Modal Indigo. Table 3 shows that the fabrics containing the Modal
Indigo fibers according to the invention show significantly lower shrinkage than comparable
fabrics made using Viscose Indigo.
Table 3:
| Shrinkage [%] |
Viscose Indigo |
Modal Indigo |
| Woven fabric |
7.0 |
4.5 |
| Knit fabric |
17.5 |
11.5 |
Example 3: Yarn tenacity after denim bleaching processes, compared to Viscose Indigo
[0048] Modal Indigo fibers according to the invention were compared to commercially available
Viscose Indigo fibers (obtained from Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft, Lenzing/Austria).
Yarns were spun using a Quickspin machine, i.e. by a rotor spinning process. The yarn
tenacities were measured before and after treatment with permanganate in aqueous solution
according to the following conditons: Pottasium permanganate concentration 4g/l, 40°C,
10min, followed by neutralization with 2g/l disodium metabisulphite at 40°C for 10min.).
Table 4 shows that while Viscose Indigo after Permanganate bleaching was so degraded
that the yarn strength and yarn elongation were unmeasurable (the yarn teared when
clamping), Modal Indigo even after Permanganate bleaching shows satisfying mechanical
properties.
Table 4:
| Fiber type |
Viscose Indigo |
Viscose Indigo |
Modal Indigo |
Modal Indigo |
| treatment |
untreated |
Permanganate bleach |
untreated |
Permanganate bleach |
| yarn count [dtex] |
303 |
303 |
313 |
323 |
| yarn strength [cN/tex] |
9,5 |
not possible |
12,4 |
5,4 |
| yarn elongation [%] |
12,5 |
not possible |
9,6 |
5,6 |
Example 4: Test of fibers for bleeding
[0049] A Labomat device with 500mL-tubes operating at a rotation velocity of 20rpm was used.
200ml de-ionized water were measured in a graduated cylinder and heated in the Labomat
device to 85°C. 5g fiber were added. The Labomat temperature was raised to 98°C as
quickly as possible. The samples were treated at 98°C for five minutes, then cooled
down to 70°C as fast as possible. The liquor was transferred into a 100ml beaker and
cooled down to room temperature (i.e. 20°C) while the fibers were removed manually.
[0050] Two methods were applied to the resulting liquor to assess the bleeding:
- Photometric assessment of absorption at a wave length of 480nm in the resulting liquor.
- Turbidity measurement using a Tubidimeter according to ISO 7027-1:2016; the result
is given in [NTU] = Nephelometric Turbidity Units.
[0051] For each measurement, a test tube filled with pure water is necessary as blanc reference.
The tested fibers were as follows:
Modal Indigo was obtained according to Example 1. Viscose Indigo, Viscose Black (spun
dyed) and Modal Black (spun dyed) were obtained as commercially available products
from Lenzing Aktiengesellschaft, Lenzing/Austria. All fibers used were staple fibers
with a titer of between 1,3 and 1,7 dtex and a cut length of between 38 and 39mm.
Table 5:
| |
Abs [480nm] |
Turbidity [NTU] |
| Viscose Black |
0,0363 |
10,2 |
| Viscose Indigo |
0,0495 |
22,4 |
| Modal Black |
0,1168 |
29,9 |
| Modal Indigo |
0,0158 |
5,82 |
[0052] The results (Table 5) show that while in spun dyed viscose fibers the switch from
a conventional pigment to indigo pigment leads to higher bleeding, in spun dyed modal
fibers the switch from a conventional pigment to indigo pigment surprisingly results
in significantly reduced bleeding. This is in particular surprising because the fundamental
chemistry of both processes - formation of cellulose xanthogenate and subsequently
coagulation and regeneration of the cellulose - is the same.
Example 5: Sustainability assessment based on a theoretical model
[0053] To assess the sustainability of the invention, it was compared to three conventional
denim dyeing methods. The three conventional methods compared are hereinafter referred
to as Methods A, B and C.
[0054] The comparisons were made by the sustainability expert consulting company GAVILAN
AD using an expert software developed by Archroma, called 'One Way'. This expert system
has a built-in database with all the information about resources (water, energy, CO2
generated, etc) required to run each part of equipment in the application process
(padder, washing box, pre-dryer, drying cans, stenter, etc). This expert program also
calculates indirect resource requirements (e.g. energy depending on type of fuel for
the boiler, heating system for an application box - direct/indirect steam, electrical
power required by engines, etc). "owf" means "on weight of fiber".
[0055] Assumptions made for the Methods A, B and C were as follows:
General assumptions for all four methods, i.e. including the Modal Indigo processing
according to the invention:
- Length of warp yarn to the dyed: 10000m
- Weight: 2190 Kg
- Type of Denim article: light weight (7 Oz/Yd2, i.e. approx. 235 g/m2)
- 25°C for all process steps
- Methods A-B-C include yarn spinning before indigo dyeing while spun-dyed Modal Indigo
fiber according to the invention covers yarn spinning after indigo spun-dyeing of
the fiber.
[0056] Additional assumption for the Method A (conventional indigo yarn dyeing) was as follows:
- Concentration of indigo (the standard commercial form of granulated indigo granulated):
4% owf (dark tone)
- Indigo yarn dyeing process is pre-wetting, warm rinsing (2 boxes), cold rinsing (1
box), indigo dyeing (6 boxes), rinsing (3 boxes).
[0057] Additional assumption for the Method B (pre-reduced indigo yarn dyeing) was as follows:
- 4% owf (dark tone) for pre-reduced liquid indigo under nitrogen gas to prevent it
from oxidation
- Indigo yarn dyeing process is pre-wetting, warm rinsing (2 boxes), cold rinsing (one
box), indigo dyeing (3 boxes), rinsing (3 boxes)
[0058] Additional assumption for the Method C (low water consumption Sulphur dyeing) was
as follows:
- Concentrations of non-indigo dyes adjusted according to both lab and bulk comparative
dyeing: 12% pre-reduced Sulphur dyestuff
- Application of non-indigo dyes consider a pre-mercerization step instead of the conventional
pre-wetting for indigo.
- Mercerizing, warm rinsing (2 boxes), sulfur dyeing (2 boxes), fixation bath (2 boxes),
rinsing (3 boxes)
[0059] When the spun-dyed Modal Indigo fiber production method according to this invention
is compared to the other dyeing methods A to C, the method according to the invention
has a distinctive savings in water, chemicals, electricity, heat and wastewater (see
Table 6: Savings achieved with indigo spun-dyed modal according to the invention compared
to methods A, B and C). Heat energy needed to dry the conventionally dyed yarns are
not needed for Modal Indigo fibers.
Table 6
| Savings by the invention compared to |
Method A |
Method B |
Method C |
| Water |
99.5 % |
99.5 % |
99.1 % |
| Chemicals |
87.4 % |
81 % |
83.7 % |
| Electricity |
99.96 % |
99.96 % |
99.96 % |
| Wastewater |
99.5 % |
99.5 % |
99.1 % |
| Heat |
100% |
100% |
100% |
1. Cellulosic fibers, containing incorporated indigo pigments in the oxidized form, characterized in that the fibers are made according to a modal process, show a tenacity (conditioned) of
at least 29cN/tex, a wet modulus according to BISFA of at least 5cN/tex/%.
2. Fiber according to claim 1, wherein the indigo pigment is incorporated inside the
whole cross-section of the fiber.
3. Use of the fiber according to claim 1 for the manufacture of a fabric with denim appearance.
4. Textile fabric with denim appearance, characterized in that it contains between 40 and 100% (w/w) of the fibers according to claim 1.
5. Fabric according to claim 4, which shows a rub fastness according to ISO 105-X12:2016
of between 4.0 and 5.0.
6. Fabric according to claim 4, which is a woven fabric.
7. Fabric according to claim 6, which contains in the warp between 80 and 100% (w/w),
preferably between 95 and 100% (w/w), of the fibers according to claim 1.
8. Fabric according to claim 6, which shows a shrinkage at washing according to ISO 6330
and shrinkage test according to ONORM ISO 3759 of lower than 5.0%.
9. Fabric according to claim 4, which is a knit fabric.
10. Fabric according to claim 9, which shows a shrinkage at washing according to ISO 6330
and shrinkage test according to ONORM ISO 3759 of lower than 12.0%.
11. Method for manufacturing a fiber according to claim 1,
characterized in that it includes the steps:
a. Preparation of a Modal spinning solution
b. Preparation of indigo pigments in the oxidized form
c. Adding the indigo pigments to the Modal spinning solution
d. Extruding the solution of step c. into a coagulation bath according to a Modal
spinning process.