ATBECHDEDKESFRGBGRITLILUNLSEMCPTIESILTLVFIROMKCYALTRBGCZEEHUPLSKBAHRIS..MTNORSMESMMAKHTNMD..........
J
BDM Ver 2.0.16 (1th of February 2022) - 1100000/0
4108827
EUROPEAN PATENT APPLICATION
A1
20221228
EP
22180882.7
20220624
it
en
en
202100016673
20210625
IT
20221228
202252
20221228
202252
D06N 3/14 20060101AFI20221115BHEP
A43B 23/02 20060101ALI20221115BHEP
A43B 23/08 20060101ALI20221115BHEP
A43B 23/16 20060101ALI20221115BHEP
D06M 15/564 20060101ALI20221115BHEP
A43B 23/0215 20130101 LI20220217BHEP
A43B 23/086 20130101 LI20220217BHEP
A43B 23/16 20130101 LI20220217BHEP
D06N 3/14 20130101 FI20220217BHEP
D06M 15/564 20130101 LI20221103BHEP
D06N 3/146 20130101 LI20221103BHEP
D06N 3/147 20130101 LI20221103BHEP
de
VERSTÄRKUNGSMATERIAL FÜR LEDERWAREN ODER SCHUHARTIKEL
en
REINFORCEMENT MATERIAL FOR LEATHER GOODS OR FOOTWEAR
fr
MATÉRIAU DE RENFORT POUR LA MAROQUINERIE OU POUR LES ARTICLES CHAUSSANTS
NONE
Tecno GI S.p.A.
101953715
E0140120-GL
Via del Vallo, 7
28071 Borgolavezzaro (NO)
IT
BALBO, Roberta
28071 Borgolavezzaro, NOVARA
IT
LUMINI, Greta
28071 Borgolavezzaro, NOVARA
IT
ZANETTI, Giovanni
28071 Borgolavezzaro, NOVARA
IT
COAREZZA, Luigi
28071 Borgolavezzaro, NOVARA
IT
Long, Giorgio
100043888
Jacobacci & Partners S.p.A. Via Senato, 8
20121 Milano
IT
AL
AT
BE
BG
CH
CY
CZ
DE
DK
EE
ES
FI
FR
GB
GR
HR
HU
IE
IS
IT
LI
LT
LU
LV
MC
MK
MT
NL
NO
PL
PT
RO
RS
SE
SI
SK
SM
TR
BA
ME
KH
MA
MD
TN
The present invention relates to a reinforcement material for use in the field of leather goods and footwear.
In particular, the invention relates to a reinforcement material for leather goods or footwear, consisting of a support layer made of cotton impregnated with a water-based biodegradable polymer of an aliphatic polyurethane nature, wherein the surface of the reinforcement material is sanded.
The non-biodegradable alternatives include soft polyacrylic resins (Tg <0), natural latex or SBR - soft styrene butadiene rubber.
Leather goods or footwear obtainable with said reinforcement material are also described, as well as a method for the manufacture thereof.

Technical field of the invention
The present invention relates to a reinforcement material for use in the field of leather goods and footwear.

Background art
In the field of leather goods and footwear, reinforcement materials are commonly used which are adapted to support and give body to the leathers to which they are coupled, which are often very soft and sagging and of low thickness.
Such reinforcement materials must therefore have anti-crease properties, so as to give roundness and fullness to the leather and to prevent it from being marked by the reinforcement material itself.
Another important feature, especially in use with footwear, is the anti-slip property. In fact, the reinforcement material will form the inner surface of the upper in contact with the foot, whereby it is important that the foot does not slide inside the shoe.
The reinforcement material must also be compatible with the glues or mastics commonly used in such fields and be soft and velvety to the touch. Other desirable properties should be water repellency and biodegradability.
The reinforcement materials commonly used in the leather goods and footwear field are:
- so-called "camoscina" or "synthetic leather lining", consisting of NBR rubber (acrylonitrile butadiene rubber) impregnated on a non-woven polyester support;
- polyurethane-based microfiber with a non-woven support characterized by a nylon/PES/PP fiber blend.
Both materials are obtained through a coagulation method and any subsequent splitting to obtain the thinner desired thicknesses.
Such reinforcement materials have some of the properties requested by the use described above, but certainly not biodegradability.
Water repellency is also commonly conferred by subsequent chemical treatments, which can have a further negative impact on both biodegradability and eco-sustainability.

Summary of the invention
Therefore, the need is felt to provide a reinforcement material which, in addition to having the essential features for the use thereof in the leather goods and footwear field, also has a high biodegradability and is environmentally friendly even in the production step. Such material must also have a low cost.
Such a problem is solved by a reinforcement material for leather goods and footwear as defined in the appended claims, the definitions of which form an integral part of the present description for the purpose of the sufficiency of description.
The object of the present invention is a reinforcement material for leather goods or footwear, consisting of a support layer made of cotton impregnated with a water-based biodegradable polymer of an aliphatic polyurethane nature, in which the surface of the reinforcement material is sanded. The non-biodegradable alternatives include soft polyacrylic resins (Tg <0), natural latex or soft SBR -styrene butadiene rubber.
A further object is a leather goods or footwear item comprising the reinforcement material according to the invention coupled to a layer of leather.
Still another object of the invention is a method for obtaining the reinforcement material according to the invention, comprising the following steps:
1. a) impregnating a cotton fabric with said impregnating polymer by means of a padder impregnation system;
2. b) drying by means of a stenter;
3. c) sanding the surfaces of both faces of the impregnated and dried fabric.
Further features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent from the description of some embodiments, given by way of nonlimiting example herein below.

Brief description of the drawings
Figure 1 depicts a simplified diagram of the production cycle of the reinforcement material of the invention.

Detailed description of the invention
The reinforcement material according to the present invention consists of a support layer made of cotton impregnated with a water-based biodegradable impregnating polymer of an aliphatic polyurethane nature, in which the surface of the reinforcement material is sanded.
The non-biodegradable alternatives include soft polyacrylic resins (Tg <0), natural latex or soft SBR -styrene butadiene rubber.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "consisting of" means both "comprising" and "consisting of". The term "comprising" in turn indicates the possible presence of other components in combination with a layer of cotton and impregnating polymer and/or the possible presence, on one or both sides of the reinforcement material as defined above, of an adhesive film. The term "comprising", on the other hand, indicates the presence of other layers or films beyond those defined so far.
In preferred embodiments, the support layer is made of a circular knitted cotton fabric (jersey) or an orthogonal knitted cotton fabric. More preferably it is a cotton jersey. Preferably, the support layer is made of 100% cotton jersey brushed from two sides, thus of renewable vegetable origin.
By virtue of the chemical nature thereof, cotton jersey allows meeting the biodegradability requirement, while the circular knit structure thereof ensures a round touch, easily moldable and deformable during the application step, as well as a high dimensional stability to cutting.
In preferred embodiments, the impregnating polymer is an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane obtained by polymerization of hexamethylene-diisocyanate (HDI) and adipic acid-1,6-hexanediol, having about 40% solid content by weight. Preferably, said polymer has a weight average molecular weight of about 330,000, a glass transition temperature (Tg) of about -53°C and a particle size distribution with a mode of about 160 nm and having a light fastness 7 according to DIN EN ISO 105-B02. For indicative purposes, such a polymer will degrade in 52 days with a biodegradability index of 82% according to ISO 14855-1 (2012) or according to EN 13432 and ASTM D 6400.
The reinforcement material according to the invention can be obtained, starting from a cotton fabric as a support layer, by the following method, comprising the following steps in sequence:
1. a) impregnating a cotton fabric with said impregnating polymer by means of a padder impregnation system;
2. b) drying by means of a stenter;
3. c) sanding the surfaces of both faces of the impregnated and dried fabric.
The sanding is preferably carried out by means of sandpaper called "AG 513ER" with silicon carbide grain P600 with closed grain coating. The sanding was carried out so as to remove only the surface layer of the item (0.04 mm ±0.01 mm), whereby the fabric structure is not damaged.
The stenter is a machine conventionally used for quick drying at a high temperature which allows a fast thermofixing of the impregnant. A simplified diagram of the usable plant is shown in figure 1.
With reference to figure 1, the reference numeral 1 indicates the cotton fabric, which is previously passed through a straightening-weft unit, so as to obtain a well-taut fabric which then passes through a padder impregnation module 4. After impregnation with the polymer as defined above, the fabric passes through an enlarger cylinder 3, then through the stenter, where a series of burners-dryers B dry/thermofix the polymer impregnated in the cotton fabric. The number 6 indicates the grilles between which the fabric is passed and the number 5 indicates the drains.
The reinforcement material is then wound back into a reel at the end of the treatment.
After the steps of impregnating and drying in the stenter, the reinforcement material undergoes a sanding process on both sides, a fundamental finishing to confer the features sought, mentioned above, and to confer the "velvety" or "suede" touch which distinguishes this particular class of reinforcement material. Furthermore, the sanding is useful to be able to more easily adhere the mastics and adhesives frequently used in footwear factories to the reinforcement material, or alternatively to be able to better adhere a coupled extruded adhesive film.
The fabric sanding machine is conventional machinery, in which the fabric is rotated on passing cylinders, kept well taut by a "piece tensioner" to avoid creases, and rubbed by a roller covered with fine-grained emery paper. The different effects are obtained with the use of multiple rollers, with the different grain of the emery paper and with the distance of the roller from the fabric. This is regulated by pressure cylinders which distance or approach it to the abrasive surface. A special suction system collects the fine dust produced by the processing.
In certain embodiments, the reinforcement material can be pre-coupled, on one or both sides, to an extruded adhesive film, so as to facilitate subsequent application to the leather by the leather goods or footwear manufacturer.
The reinforcement material of the invention is water-repellent (according to the "non-wicking test" i.e., the non-rise by capillarity) without addition of chemical auxiliaries, an aspect of considerable importance given by the particular hydrophilic nature of cotton-based fabrics. This inherent feature allows avoiding the use of chemical additives which would contribute to the decrease of the biodegradability and environmentally-friendly features of the product, which instead, are preserved.
The water repellency test was carried out with the method of UNI EN ISO 19074:2015 - Determination of water absorption by capillary action (wicking test): Conditioning and test atmosphere: 23±1 °C, 50±3 %R.U. Results: Water rise height = 0.4 mm.
The reinforcement material of the invention has anti-crease properties, anti-slip effect and extreme softness/roundness, resulting in a smooth and velvety feel to avoid any alteration to the touch of particularly thin leathers and/or uppers.
The reinforcement material of the invention also allows a reduction in processing times by virtue of the excellent skimming, which allows the end user (shearer/footwear factory) to save the second chamfering step, the compatibility thereof with typical adhesive mastics in the application use at footwear factories and in general the easy machinability and deformability.
The main advantages of the production method, when compared with the coagulation procedures of the background art, deriving from the different type of plant, concern:
- elimination of infrared plates for the coagulation of the binder;
- the elimination and consequent use of additives such as coagulants, harmful to the environment;
- the elimination of the washing step after the coagulation with the double advantage related to both the water saving and the costs deriving from the possible waste disposal of the process waters.
The material of the invention can form a reinforcement component created by coupling said product to a layer of leather with which footwear of various types, in particular the upper of said footwear, and leather goods such as bags, backpacks, jackets, etc., can be manufactured.
It is apparent that only some particular embodiments of the present invention have been described, to which those skilled in the art will be able to make all changes required for the adaptation thereof to particular applications, without however departing from the scope of protection of the present invention.
1. A reinforcement material for leather goods or footwear, consisting of a support layer made of cotton impregnated with a water-based biodegradable polymer of an aliphatic polyurethane nature, wherein the surface of the reinforcement material is sanded.
2. The reinforcement material according to claim 1, wherein the support layer is made of a circular knitted cotton fabric (jersey) or of an orthogonal knitted cotton fabric, preferably 100% cotton jersey brushed from two sides.
3. The reinforcement material according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the impregnating polymer is an aqueous dispersion of polyurethane polymer obtained by polymerization of hexamethylene-diisocyanate (HDI) and adipic acid-1,6-hexanediol, with about 40% solid content by weight.
4. The reinforcement material according to claim 3, wherein said polymer has a weight average molecular weight of about 330,000, a glass transition temperature (Tg) of about -53°C and a particle size distribution with a mode of about 160 nm.
5. The reinforcement material according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein an extruded adhesive film is coupled on one or both sides.
6. The reinforcement material according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein said reinforcement material has a biodegradability index of at least 90% according to ISO 14855-1 (2012).
7. The reinforcement material according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein said reinforcement material is inherently water-repellent as determined by the "non-wicking test", and has anti-crease properties and anti-slip properties.
8. A leather goods or footwear item comprising the reinforcement material according to any one of claims 1 to 7 coupled to a layer of leather.
9. A method for obtaining the reinforcement material according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising or consisting of the following steps:
a) impregnating a cotton fabric with said impregnating polymer by means of a padder impregnation system;
b) drying by means of a stenter;
c) sanding the surfaces of both sides of the impregnated and dried fabric to a thickness reduction up to at most 0.04 mm ±0.01 mm,
wherein said method is carried out in the absence of solvents and coagulation.
E0140120-GL
EP
22180882.7
Tecno GI S.p.A.
DH
20221121
D06N
B29D
A43B
D06M
BR
8204538
A
VULCAN MATERIAL PLASTICO S A [BR]
19840313
X
1,9
Y
2-8
* example 1 *
US
2015159321
A1
HSIN CHUN-HSING [TW]
20150611
X
1
Y
1-9
* paragraphs [0024], [0036] - [0037], [0044] - [0047]; claims 1-12,15,16; figures 1,2 *
EP
1225195
A1
QUINORGAN S L [ES]
20020724
Y
1-9
* claims 1,4,6; example 5 *
EP
0943726
A1
ICHIKINTECHNICAL CO LTD [JP]; TRADIK CO LTD [JP]
19990922
Y
1-9
* paragraph [0076]; claim 1; examples 1-3 *
US
4039517
A
HAMAMURA TAMOTU ET AL
19770802
Y
1-9
* column 11, line 64 - column 12, line 26; claims; examples 1,11,14,16 *
* column 17, lines 41-46 *
* column 3, lines 60-65 *
JP
2007092195
A
DAI ICHI KOGYO SEIYAKU CO LTD
20070412
Y
1-9
* abstract *
* paragraphs [0013] - [0020], [0030], [0094]; claim 8; examples *
CN
106367988
A
YANGZHOU DERWINS PLASTICS TECH CO LTD
20170201
A
1,9
* abstract; claims; examples *
US
3690911
A
ENDO HIROSHI ET AL
19720912
A
1-9
* column 2, lines 19-65 *
* column 3, lines 17-23, 50-70 *
US
3532529
A
ENDO HIROSHI ET AL
19701006
A
1-9
* claims; examples *
WO
9916958
A1
BAYER AG [DE]; TRAEUBEL HARRO [DE] ET AL.
19990408
A
1-9
* pages 20,29 *
* claims 1,2,6 *
Barathe, Rainier
The Hague
20221107
BR
8204538
A
19840313
NONE
US
2015159321
A1
20150611
TW
201522072
A
20150616
US
2015159321
A1
20150611
EP
1225195
A1
20020724
AU
5987700
A
20010305
BR
0012941
A
20020611
EP
1225195
A1
20020724
ES
2156083
A1
20010601
MX
PA02001170
A
20020702
WO
0110938
A1
20010215
EP
0943726
A1
19990922
CN
1241231
A
20000112
EP
0943726
A1
19990922
ID
27688
A
20010419
JP
3309226
B2
20020729
KR
20000069184
A
20001125
TW
420738
B
20010201
US
6274203
B1
20010814
WO
9918281
A1
19990415
US
4039517
A
19770802
DE
2524109
A1
19751218
GB
1470939
A
19770421
US
4039517
A
19770802
JP
2007092195
A
20070412
NONE
CN
106367988
A
20170201
NONE
US
3690911
A
19720912
GB
1252723
A
19711110
JP
S5126482
B1
19760806
US
3690911
A
19720912
US
3532529
A
19701006
GB
1178240
A
19700121
JP
S4831883
B1
19731002
US
3532529
A
19701006
WO
9916958
A1
19990408
AU
1225799
A
19990423
CA
2305677
A1
19990408
DE
19743457
A1
19990415
EP
1023486
A1
20000802
JP
2001518573
A
20011016
WO
9916958
A1
19990408