[0001] The invention refers to jewelry making using gemstones and in particular Rose Cut
diamonds, the base of which is flat, which means without a cone. When making the piece
of jewelry, the artisan and/or the diamond "nailer" creates at first a dent on the
jewelry metal exactly in the dimensions of the diamond perimeter) where the diamond
shall be secured. Prior to permanently placing the diamond in the dent of the piece
of jewelry to be made, the artisan adjusts a thin sheet of aluminum or solder or chasmach
at the bottom of the dent, and then secures ("nails") the diamond on the piece of
jewelry to be made. This technique is used so that the Rose Cut Diamond due to its
flat base (a single cut at its base) acquires glow, shine, clarity as it does not
shine, glow and is not clear, it is not "alive" on its own and when placed on a piece
of jewelry.
[0002] The application of the specific technique by the special artisan is extremely time-consuming
and runs the risk of a high percentage of failure for the perfect and proper making
of the piece of jewelry both in technical and aesthetic terms. The reason is that
the securing of the diamond must be fully airtight on the piece of jewelry and, in
particular on the created dent so that the reflection material under the diamond is
protected and is not tainted or spoilt by the air and the water resulting in the diamond
losing its shine, glow and clarity provided by the reflection material (aluminum sheet,
solder, chahmach). In this technique, in order to secure airtightly the Rose Cut diamond
on the piece of jewelry, and in particular exactly in the created dent, the special
artisan uses either the metal mass "over" the diamond "zone" or in some cases, the
artisan uses a glue in order to get a sealing result. The special artisan is required
to repeat this strenuous time-consuming and precarious for the final result procedure
for each diamond separately.
[0003] There is no guarantee in this technique that the diamond will be airtightly secured
during the jewelry life. Furthermore, if for any reason, a diamond is to be removed
from the piece of jewelry, there is the risk of the piece of jewelry being destroyed.
There is a big risk of spoiling or destroying the final aesthetic picture of the piece
of jewelry in any attempt to remove the diamond and then to secure it again. In addition
in this technique, also due to the fact that the diamond zone is covered by the jewelry-dent
metal mass, the diamond is very difficult up to impossible to be appraised because
the appraiser cannot know accurately and with certainty the size, the dimensions,
the depth and the other characteristics of the gemstone; furthermore, removing the
gemstone from the piece of jewelry is discouraged.
[0004] This technique is especially applied for jewelry making in which Rose Cut diamonds
are used. It has been almost abandoned for all the above reasons and, as a result,
this type of diamonds is misjudged and not used by designers and jewelry makers.
[0005] The purpose of this invention is making jewelry using Rose Cut diamonds and at the
same time using a glass reflector (mirror) and/or strass abolishing all the above-mentioned
problems and disadvantages; also redefining the true and essential value and "place"
of the Rose Cut diamonds in the global jewelry making industry. Further advantages
from the application of the specific method in jewelry making: the cleaning and washing
of the piece of jewelry using water and common detergent up to 80 °C as frequently
as one wishes, since all the materials used in the making can tolerate these cleaning
and washing conditions and are not destroyed. Even if a material is worn, for example,
if the mirror is destroyed or worn or even if there is some kind of material failure,
it can be easily replaced without affecting the structure of the piece of jewelry
and its aesthetic perfection. This method is absolutely harmless if the piece of jewelry
is gold-plated, platinum-plated or silver-plated. With this method and its technical
application, the jewelry maker and designer by using a colored mirror and/or strass
can achieve a change in the final visual result in the color of the gemstone and only
for aesthetic reasons, as the real diamond characteristics are not modified and in
addition, very easily, safely and quickly the gemstone can be removed from the piece
of jewelry to be properly and correctly appraised. The piece of jewelry when made
using this technique will be shiny, sparkling and clear during its life; furthermore,
the diamonds on the piece of jewelry will be exceptionally shiny and sparkling and
also clear due to the use of the mirror or strass.
[0006] The solution of these problems and of the disadvantages is achieved according to
the invention through the properties mentioned in claim 1. The research and 30-year
practical experience in jewelry design and making resulted in the specific jewelry
making method using gemstones, Rose Cut diamonds (4). As shown in Figure 1, the piece
of jewelry comprises three key parts: the bottom part (frame) (1), the upper part,
a combination of welded bezels (2) and a third part the mirror (3). Using the specific
configuration of this technical method, a gap is created between the two parts of
the piece of jewelry, the bottom (1) and upper part (2), inside which, in particular
on the base (6) inside the frame (1), the glass reflector (3), mirror (3) or strass
(3) is placed and permanently fitted. Then, at the upper key part, a combination of
bezels (2) of the under construction piece of jewelry, the diamonds are secured and
fitted with 3 or 4 teeth (5) for each diamond (4).
Furthermore, when all the diamonds (4) are fitted at the upper part (2), the last
one is fitted on the frame (1) using the same technique of securing a diamond (4)
on the bezel, i.e. with "teeth" (5).
1. Method of placing and fitting a glass reflector (mirror and/or strass) (3) inside
pieces of jewelry when being manufactured, using Rose Cut diamonds (4), designed in
such a way so that a glass reflector (3), a mirror (3) or strass (3) can be fitted
inside the piece of jewelry. In order to apply this technique, the piece of jewelry
comprises three key parts: the bottom (1) and the upper part (2), i.e. the frame (1)
and the top part (2), which is a combination of joined and welded bezels (7), respectively,
and a third part being the glass reflector (3), mirror (3) or strass (3). A glass
reflector (3), i.e. mirror (3) and/or strass (3), with thickness (8) ranging from
1.5mm to 6mm, is permanently fitted inside the frame (1) on the base (6), covering
the entire available SURFACE. The upper part of the piece of jewelry (2) is designed
in such a way so as to form a single metal piece (2) comprising joined and welded
bezels (7). Each bezel (7) used for the creation of the upper part (2) of the piece
of jewelry is designed and made exactly at the dimensions of the diamond (4) that
has been provided to be placed and fitted on the piece of jewelry when it is designed.
Each diamond (4) is secured on its "own" bezel (7) with three or four teeth (5), depending
on the jewelry design and the each-time technical requirements. When all the diamonds
are fitted (4) on their bezels (7), then the upper part (2) of the piece of jewelry
is ready to be placed and set on the frame (1) by the artisan. The placement and "setting"
of the upper part (2) of the piece of jewelry on the frame (1) is performed by the
artisan using four or more teeth (5) (depending on the jewelry design and the technical
and making requirements), which are found in the frame (1) and create a single piece
with its metal mass (common body).
