TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] This disclosure relates generally to the preparation of eco-friendly engineered yarns
and fabrics, and more particularly to terry fabric and variations thereof. These eco-friendly
engineered fabrics may be used in a variety of applications, including toweling, bathrobes,
rugs, and bedding articles. This eco-friendly yarn, and the resulting eco-friendly
fabrics and textile articles provide desirable softness and absorptive properties
by increasing the yarn's porosity. Porosity is increased by implementing, and later
dissolving, wool fibers in the yarns that make up the fabric, and more specifically
the loops and tufts of terry fabric. The present disclosure further relates to the
technical aspect of producing the engineered yarn, as well as the external appearance
and characteristics of the engineered terry fabric. More specifically, in certain
embodiments of this disclosure, an eco-friendly engineered yarn is comprised of cotton
blended with soluble fibers, where the soluble fibers are dissolved in an alkali or
enzyme solution to create highly porous yarns. These highly porous eco-friendly engineered
yarns are then used for making terry fabrics and variations thereof.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Fabrics used in various applications, such as toweling, rugs, bedding, and leisure
fabrics, are often designed to maximize the absorptive properties of the fabric. For
example, towels are generally thick textile articles with a piled surface (i.e., looped
surface) on the front and/or back of the fabric. Thicker towels typically have a deeper
pile with a greater surface area.
[0003] This increased surface area generally increases the absorption properties of the
fabric. For example, when a terry toweling fabric contacts a water droplet, the pile
loops first remove the droplet by drawing the droplet into the spaces between the
fibers in the yarn. The water is then wicked throughout the length of the pile and
into the ground weave of the fabric. Further, once the water is drawn into the yarn,
the water may be absorbed into the lumen of the cotton fiber. The density of the fibers
in the yarn impacts the yarn's ability to dry; this in turn impacts the yarn's ability
to absorb more water.
[0004] Generally, woven fabrics are made with two sets of yarns: the warp and the weft;
however, terry fabrics are generally formed with three sets of yarns. The first set,
the ground warp, is a longitudinal set of yarns forming the ground fabric. The second
set, the pile warp, is set of longitudinal warp yarns that are used to form the loop
piles on the fabric surface. The third set, the weft yarn, forms the transverse yarn
that interlaces with the ground and the pile warps to form the fabric. Any of these
two (or three) sets of yarns, and the resulting fabric, may be designed to absorb
water.
[0005] While cellulose, and more specifically cotton, fibers are generally preferred due
to their many desirable properties (for example, softness, absorptive properties,
and sustainability), there is a desire to further increase the absorptive properties
of a fabric used in applications such as toweling, rugs, bedding, and leisure fabrics.
Therefore, a need exists for a method to further increase the absorptive properties.
The present invention addresses this need and provides a method for sustainably engineering
a fabric with superior absorptive properties.
SUMMARY
[0006] Embodiments of the present disclosure present technological improvements as solutions
to one or more of the above-mentioned technical problems recognized by the inventors
in the field of art.
[0007] In one embodiment, a method of creating a sustainable engineered fabric comprises
creating an engineered yarn with primary and soluble fibers, dissolving the soluble
fibers, and wearing the engineered yarn into a fabric. In certain embodiments, the
primary fibers may comprise at least one of: cotton, linen, hemp, kapok, nettle, bamboo,
lyocell, viscose, polyester (sustainable or recycled), PLA, PBT, nylon, acrylic, etc.,
or any suitable combinations thereof. In certain embodiments, the soluble fibers comprise
one or more of wool and/or silk. It is to be understood that when referring to wool
that the wool may be recycled, virgin, or a combination thereof. It is to be understood
that when referring to silk that the silk may be recycled, virgin, or a combination
thereof. In certain embodiments, the primary fibers comprise cotton. In certain embodiments,
the soluble fibers comprise wool. In certain embodiments, the primary fibers comprise
cotton and the soluble fibers comprise wool.
[0008] In another embodiment, a method of creating an engineered fabric comprises creating
with primary fibers and wool and/or silk soluble fibers wherein the soluble fibers;
dissolving the soluble fibers during yarn dyeing stage, using a process involving
a wetting agent, desizing agent, alkali, hydrogen peroxide, peroxide stabilizer, lubricant,
core alkali neutralizer/buffer, and a leveling agent, dyes; and weaving the yarn into
a fabric. In certain embodiments, the primary fiber includes cotton, linen, hemp,
kapok, nettle, bamboo, lyocell, viscose, polyester (sustainable or recycled), PLA,
PBT, nylon, acrylic, etc., and suitable combinations thereof. In certain embodiments,
the primary fiber is cotton, and the soluble fiber is wool. In certain embodiments,
the wetting agent is an ionic or non-ionic wetting agent. In certain embodiments,
the wetting agent is a commercially available wetting agent. In certain embodiments,
the desizing agent is a group of enzymes. In certain embodiments, the desizing agent
is a commercially available desizing agent. In certain embodiments, the hydrogen peroxide
stabilizer is anionic in nature. In certain embodiments, the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer
is a commercially available hydrogen peroxide stabilizer. In certain embodiments,
the lubricant is cryptanionic in nature. In certain embodiments, the lubricant is
a commercially available lubricant. In certain embodiments, the core alkali neutralizer/buffer
is anionic in nature. In certain embodiments, the core alkali neutralizer/buffer is
a commercially available alkali neutralizer/buffer. In certain embodiments, the leveling
agent is anionic in nature. In certain embodiments, the leveling agent is a commercially
available leveling agent. It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description
and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only and are
not restrictive of the invention, as claimed.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0009] The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in and constitute a part of this
disclosure, illustrate exemplary embodiments and, together with the description, serve
to explain the disclosed principles.
Figure 1A is a flowchart of a yarn manufacturing method that comprises a yarn dyeing
process and continuous post-processing.
Figure 1B is a flowchart of a fabric manufacturing method that comprises a yarn dyeing
process and continuous post-processing.
Figure 2A is a flowchart of a yarn manufacturing method that comprises a yarn dyeing
process and batch post-processing.
Figure 2B is a flowchart of a fabric manufacturing method that comprises a yarn dyeing
process and batch post-processing.
Figure 3A is a flowchart of a yarn manufacturing method that comprises a continuous
fabric dyeing process.
Figure 3B is a flowchart of a fabric manufacturing method that comprises a continuous
fabric dyeing process.
Figure 4A is a flowchart of a yarn manufacturing method that comprises a batch fabric
dyeing process.
Figure 4B is a flowchart of a fabric manufacturing method that comprises a batch fabric
dyeing process.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0010] The specification describes the preparation of sustainably engineered fabrics with
superior absorption properties. The illustrated steps are set out to explain the exemplary
embodiments shown, and it should be anticipated that ongoing technological development
will change the manner in which particular functions are performed. These examples
are presented herein for purposes of illustration, and not limitation. Further, the
boundaries of the functional building blocks have been arbitrarily defined herein
for the convenience of the description.
[0011] Alternative boundaries can be defined so long as the specified functions and relationships
thereof are appropriately performed. Alternatives (including equivalents, extensions,
variations, deviations, etc., of those described herein) will be apparent to persons
skilled in the relevant art(s) based on the teachings contained herein. Such alternatives
fall within the scope of the disclosed embodiments. Also, the words "comprising,"
"having," "containing," and "including," and other similar forms are intended to be
equivalent in meaning and be open ended in that an item or items following any one
of these words is not meant to be an exhaustive listing of such item or items, nor
are they meant to be limiting to only the listed item(s). It must also be noted that
as used herein and in the appended claims, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the"
include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.
[0012] With terry, a ground fabric made of a first warp yarn and provided with loops of
a second warp yarn interlaced with weft yarns forms the fabric. The desired engineered
terry fabric has a final weight between 200 and 1800 g/m
2. This engineered terry fabric may have 16 to 34 ends per centimeter in the warp direction,
and 10 to 28 picks per centimeter in the weft direction.
[0013] Typically, in terry fabrics, the pile yarns (i.e., the loop-forming yarns) used in
terry fabrics are coarse and range from about 6 to 50 Ne (Cotton Count) in single
ply yarn. These yarns may be plied as well. Coarser yarns have a greater number of
fibers in the cross section. The warp and weft yarns used in the ground weave of the
fabric are more varied, ranging from 6 to 120 Ne. Like the pile yarn, the yarns used
in the ground weave may be plied. The yarn count and weave construction are generally
engineered based on the desired construction. For example, where a heavier basis weight
fabric is desired, a coarser yarn may be implemented. And, similarly, the ends and/or
picks per inch may be increased.
[0014] Generally, the yarns used in terry fabrics implement cotton where absorptive properties
are desired. In addition to the yarns used for the warp and weft, decorative designs
and/or embellishments (e.g., embroidery) may be formed using any desirable material,
for example, polyester filament yarn.
[0015] A yarn's absorption properties depend on a variety of characteristics, including:
fiber type, blend ratios of selected fiber types, and yarn structure. Modifying the
yarn structure can increase the wicking properties of the yarn, which may lead to
an increase in the hydrophilic properties of the yarn. Additionally, the amount of
twist in a yarn affects the properties of the resultant towel. For example, since
pile yarn is a commonly a low-twist yarn, pile loops have a greater fiber surface
area for the absorption of water. This also imparts wicking properties to the yarn.
The pile yarn properties can contrast with the properties of the ground warp and weft
yarn, which generally possess higher twist ratios than the pile yarn.
[0016] While cellulose, and more specifically cotton, fibers are generally preferred by
consumers due to their many desirable properties (e.g., softness, absorptive properties,
and sustainability), cellulose holds moisture longer than many synthetic fibers. Therefore,
there is a need to engineer a fabric in sustainable manner with superior properties
to reduce dry time. Because it is of interest to increase the amount of free space
within yarn to increase absorbency of water, structural changes in the yarn need to
be engineered. Further research has revealed that hollow and zero twist yarns are
excellent for use in toweling. To manufacture hollow yarn, polyvinyl acetate (PVA)
has been blended into cotton and spun into a yarn. These yarns have been woven into
fabrics and then treated to dissolve the PVA to create a hollow yarn structure that
increases the absorbency of the finished towels. PVA, however, is not an environmentally
friendly fiber. Further research determined that wool and/or silk, natural protein
fibers, tended to dissolve in sodium hydroxide solution (a caustic solution) at a
certain concentration. Due to these fibers' excellent properties with regards to its
elasticity, resilience, and absorbency, they were explored as a fiber for use in the
preparation of the disclosed engineered terry fabric.
[0017] In certain embodiments of this disclosure, an environmentally friendly and organic
approach was taken to create an engineered yarn with desirable properties. In the
present invention disclosure, wool, silk, or a blend of wool and silk was used to
increase the porosity of a cellulose (or more specifically, a cotton yarn). Additionally,
a new attachment in the ring spinning system was utilized to eliminate the spinning
triangle formed in a conventional ring system. This attachment provides multiple benefits,
including reducing yarn hairiness and yarn breakage during spinning, and increasing
yarn strength (making lower twist ratios possible) and yarn evenness (lower coefficient
of variation). These yarn benefits also provide greater weaving efficiency (i.e.,
enables higher picks per minute and decreases downtime due to broken yarns). Additionally,
a finer yarn count may be obtained by changing the blend ratios.
[0018] The yarn, which maybe be spun with wool, silk, or a blend of wool and silk, may be
used in an engineered terry or flat woven fabric to increase the fabric's absorptive
properties. The wool and/or silk may be removed during the yarn or fabric stage of
a batch or continuous production using an enzyme and/or alkali solution. The combination
of enzyme and alkali may be preferred where a more environmentally friendly method
is preferred. Where a finer yarn count is desirable in the resulting fabric, silk
is preferred. The amount of soluble fiber present can comprise up to about 40 percent
of the weight of the yarn prior to dissolution.
[0019] Accordingly, certain embodiments of the present disclosure describe an engineered
fabric that comprises a yarn engineered to have superior absorptive properties.
[0020] Exemplary embodiments are described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
In the figures, the left-most digit(s) of a reference number identifies the figure
in which the reference number first appears. Wherever convenient, the same reference
numbers are used throughout the drawings to refer to the same or like parts. While
examples and features of disclosed principles are described herein, modifications,
adaptations, and other implementations are possible without departing from the scope
of the disclosed embodiments. It is intended that the following detailed description
be considered as exemplary only, with the true scope being indicated by the following
claims.
[0021] It is intended that the disclosure and examples be considered as exemplary only,
with a true scope of disclosed embodiments being indicated by the following claims.
[0022] To manufacture a fabric for use in applications such as toweling, rugs, bedding,
and leisure fabrics, the fibers must be selected, the yarn must be spun, and the fabric
must be woven. After fabric is woven, it may undergo various processes like preparatory
or pretreatment processing, dyeing, and/or finishing. In the following detailed description
of the invention, different methods are described for engineering a fabric with increased
absorptive properties.
[0023] Figure 1A is a flowchart of a yarn manufacturing method that comprises a yarn dyeing process
and continuous post processing illustrating an exemplary method
100 of processing fibers to form yarn for use in the preparation of fabrics. In one embodiment,
method
100 starts with step
105, in which primary fiber (e.g., the fiber that remains after the soluble fibers are
dissolved) is received from a supplier. The primary fiber may be a one of a variety
of fibers or a blend of fibers. For example, the primary fibers may be one or more
of cotton, linen, hemp, kapok, nettle, bamboo, lyocell, viscose, polyester (sustainable
or recycled), PLA, PBT, nylon, acrylic, etc. More specifically, the primary fiber
may be cotton fibers. Where a finer yarn is desired, finer fibers may be preferred
(e.g., fibers with smaller diameters). Likewise, for coarser yarn, coarser fibers
may be preferred (e.g., fibers with larger diameters).
[0024] In step
110, the primary fiber may be stored. When stored, the primary fibers may be conditioned
to a certain temperature or relative humidity to prepare the fibers for spinning.
As one of skill in the art would understand, the desired temperature and humidity
would be dependent, in part, upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will
occur.
[0025] In step
115, the fibers may be processed in a blow room. A person of skill in the art would recognize
that a blow room is where fiber is processed to prepare the fiber for yarn manufacturing.
In the blow room, fibers are selected for opening, cleaning, and blending.
[0026] In step
120, the fibers undergo carding. At this stage, the fibers are passed through carding
machines to remove short fibers, and trash (e.g., seed particulate), and individualize
and align the fibers into slivers. After carding, the slivers are subjected to a drawing
process to further align the fibers. During drawing, a number of carded slivers are
fed through a drawing frame where they are drafted to create a more uniform sliver.
At this stage, the slivers made of the primary fiber may be drafted with wool, silk,
or wool/silk blended slivers to create a blended sliver with soluble fibers. In slivers
comprised of a wool and silk blend, the ratio may be anywhere from 99:1 to 1:99. The
content of the soluble fiber may make up 3% to 40% of the sliver prior to dissolving.
Low blend ratios are preferred, such as 3% to 10% because these ranges are the most
cost viable. It would be further preferred to have a 3.5% to 7% ratio of soluble fiber.
Generally, the resulting sliver should have a count of 0.100 to 0.180 Ne (cotton count).
[0027] In optional step
125, the fibers may optionally undergo lapping and followed by combing operation in step
130 to remove shorter fibers and produce a more lustrous resulting yarn. Generally, lapping
followed by combing is done where a longer fiber is required (for example, to form
a low twist yarn). In this step, 20 to 24 slivers are fed into the lapping machine
to produce one lap. A person of skill in the art would understand that laps are then
input into a combing machine (thus, if optional step 125 is performed, optional step
130 is also performed). Generally, the resulting lap should have a count of 0.0079
to 0.0091 Ne. These steps are generally used where a premium quality product is desired.
[0028] In optional step
130 (which is performed if optional step
125 is performed), the fibers undergo combing. During combing, the laps are passed through
a set of combs that further orient the fiber, as well as remove additional short fibers.
Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 laps are fed into the combing machine to produce one
sliver. As previously discussed, lapping and combing are not required. These steps
are generally used where a premium quality product is desired.
[0029] In step
135, the resulting slivers undergo breaker drawing. Breaker drawing may be done whether
or not the fibers were combed (the process that occurs in optional steps
125 and
130). In certain embodiments, where carding but not combing occurs, the fibers may proceed
from carding in step
120 directly to step
135 to undergo breaker drawing. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through
the drawing frame together. These slivers are subjected to drafting, most commonly:
a breaker draft and a main draft. During each of the drafting stages, a set of rollers
(appropriately spaced to minimize fiber breakage) is calibrated to ensure that the
resulting weight per length is appropriately sized.
[0030] In some embodiments, the fibers which underwent combing in step
130, may be combined with the fibers that underwent carding and breaker drawing to undergo
a finisher drawing in step
140. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through the drawing machine to produce
one blended sliver. The fibers may be blended in such a way as to create bundles or
tufts of wool and/or silk dispersed throughout the primary fiber in the resulting
blended sliver. These tufts, when dissolved, leave pores in treated yarns' cross-section.
These pores are desirable in certain applications where their unique absorbency and
wicking properties are desirable. Alternatively, the wool and/or cotton may be evenly
distributed throughout the cotton-blend sliver. Where the soluble fiber is evenly
distributed, the pores left after dissolving are smaller than the pores that result
from tufts of wool and/or silk. These pores are desirable in certain applications
where their unique absorbency and wicking properties are desired.
[0031] In a parallel process, in step
145, the soluble fibers may be received. Desirable soluble fibers include wool, silk,
and/or any other suitable fiber, and combinations thereof. A person of skill in the
art would understand that suitable fibers would include any fiber that offers eco-friendly
or sustainable properties. As a person of skill in the art would understand, wool
and silk fibers have varying properties. For example, wool may be fine (i.e., possess
a small diameter) or coarse (i.e., possess a large diameter). When engineering a fabric,
the fiber properties of the variety of soluble fiber must be considered, as well as
other factors such as ratio of primary to soluble fiber, and blend characteristics
(e.g., if the soluble fiber is dispersed in tufts or as single fibers).
[0032] In step
150, the soluble fibers may be stored. When stored, the processed fibers may be conditioned
to a certain temperature or relative humidity to prepare the fibers for spinning.
As one of skill in the art would understand, the desired temperature and humidity
would be dependent, in part, upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will
occur.
[0033] In step
155, the soluble fibers may be processed in a blow room. A person of skill in the art
would recognize that a blow room is where fiber is processed to prepare the fiber
for yarn manufacturing. In the blow room, fibers are selected for opening, cleaning,
and blending. In the blow room, the soluble fibers may be blended together to achieve
the desired ratio.
[0034] In step
160, the soluble fibers may undergo carding and become sliver. At this stage, the fibers
are passed through carding machines to remove short fibers and trash (e.g., vegetable
matter and other undesirable particulate), individualize and align the fibers into
slivers. After carding, the slivers are subjected to a drawing process to further
align the fibers. During drawing, a number of carded slivers are fed through a drawing
frame where they are drafted to create a more uniform sliver. In slivers comprised
of a wool and silk blend, the ratio may be anywhere from 99:1 to 1:99. The content
of the soluble fiber may make up 3% to 40% of the end sliver (e.g., the sliver comprising
a blend of primary and soluble fiber). Low blend ratios are preferred, such as 3%
to 10% because these ranges are the most cost viable. It would be further preferred
to have a 3.5% to 7% ratio of soluble fiber. Generally, the resulting sliver should
have a count of 0.100 to 0.180 Ne (cotton count).
[0035] In step
165, the soluble fibers may undergo drawing to ensure the unity of the fibers in the
stream. After step
165, drawn slivers are finisher drawn in step
140. Generally, during finisher drawing, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through the drawing machine
to produce one blended sliver. The fibers may be blended in such a way as to create
bundles or tufts of wool and/or silk dispersed throughout the primary fiber in the
resulting blended sliver. These tufts, when dissolved, leave pores in yarn cross-sections.
These pores are desirable in certain applications where their unique absorbency and
wicking properties are desirable. Alternatively, the wool and/or cotton may be evenly
distributed throughout the cotton-blend sliver. Where the soluble fiber is evenly
distributed, the pores left after dissolving are smaller than the pores that result
from tufts of wool and/or silk. These pores are desirable in certain applications
where their unique absorbency and wicking properties are desired.
[0036] In step
170, the blended slivers produced through any combination of the forgoing processes undergo
speed frame roving. A person of skill in the art will understand that roving is required
for ring spinning. During roving, slivers are further drafted to reduce the weight
per length and a low amount of twist is inserted.
[0037] In step
175, the roving that was created in step
170 undergoes ring spinning. Ring spinning is desirable for applications, such as terry
toweling, rugs, bedding, and leisure fabrics, where softness is desired. Further,
yarn spinning produces yarns with desirable elasticity. During ring spinning roving
is fed into the ring spinning machine and bobbins of yarn is output. Generally, the
resulting yarn should have a count of 6 Ne to 120 Ne. Additionally, a new attachment
in the ring spinning system was utilized to eliminate the spinning triangle formed
in a conventional ring system. This attachment provides multiple benefits, including
reducing yarn hairiness and yarn breakage during spinning, and increasing yarn strength
(making lower twist ratios possible) and yarn evenness (i.e., lower coefficient of
variation). These yarn benefits also provide greater weaving efficiency (i.e., enables
higher picks per minute and decreases downtime due to broken yarns). Additionally,
a finer yarn count may be obtained by changing the blend ratios. In place of Ring
Spinning, a Rotor Spinning, Friction Spinning, Air Jet Spinning or Compact Spinning
may also be used in the alternate.
[0038] In step
180, after spinning the bobbins of yarn may be combined onto a cone using an autoconer.
Cones are required to convert the bobbins to larger packages suitable for textile
processing.
[0039] In step
185, the yarns may optionally undergo plying. During this step, yarns of the same or
different counts may be plied together. Similarly, yarns with the same fiber and blend
content, or yarns with differing fiber and blend contents may be plied. The number
of yarns plied may be two or more.
[0040] In step
190, the yarns may be wound onto suitable packages. For example, yarns may be wound off
of tapered cones onto cylindrical tubes or other forms of packaging more suitable
for warping and weaving.
[0041] Figure 1B is a flowchart of a fabric manufacturing method that comprises a yarn dyeing process
and a continuous post processing illustrating an exemplary method 200 of processing
yarns into fabrics.
[0042] In step
205, yarn is received from a supplier or the spinning room.
[0043] In step
210, the yarn may be stored. When stored, the yarns may be conditioned to a certain temperature
or relative humidity to prepare the yarns for weaving. As one of skill in the art
would understand, the desired temperature and humidity would be dependent, in part,
upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will occur.
[0044] In step
215, the soluble fibers may be dissolved and, if desired, the yarn may be dyed. For example,
the wool and/or silk fibers may be dissolved in sodium hydroxide (NaOH), an enzyme,
or a combination thereof. Further, when the soluble fibers are dissolved, scouring
and bleaching may occur. During this process, the packages may be loaded into a machine
where they are placed in a water bath. The temperature of the water bath may be increased
before a wetting agent is applied. A wetting agent lowers the surface tension of a
liquid, allowing easier spreading, and lower the interfacial tension between two liquids,
and aid in cleaning the surface of fibers and improving the solidity of reactive and
disperse dyeing. A stabilizer for hydrogen peroxide bleaching may be used to achieve
uniform bleaching by suppressing rapid decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. A stabilizer
prevents degradation of strength and pinholes by suppressing decomposition. Thus,
a stabilizer plays an important role to obtain high quality bleached products. A core
alkali neutralizer (or "buffer") may be added after the bleaching process to remove
the alkali and control the pH for further processing. A leveling agent (or "retarding
agent" or "retarder") may be used to aid in fixing the dye to the yarn and obtain
a uniform shade. On of skill in the art would understand that the appropriate yarn
package (e.g., tube or cone) should be selected for the desired processes, and that
the yarn package my need to be changed prior to dyeing. After the soluble fibers are
dissolved (and repacked if necessary) the yarn may be dyed using any suitable dyeing
process.
[0045] In step
220, the yarn undergoes warping. Any known process for warping, including high speed/direct
warping, sectional/indirect warping, and/or ball warping, may be utilized in this
step.
[0046] In step
225, the yarn undergoes sizing. Any known process for sizing, including wet sizing, solvent
sizing, cold sizing, and/or hot melt sizing, may be utilized in this step.
[0047] In step
230, the yarn undergoes weaving. Any known process for weaving, including terry weaving,
may be utilized. For example, in terry weaving, two warp beams are prepared (one for
the ground warp and one for the pile warp). These two warps are fed through the loom
at different speeds to create loops on the pile warp. The weft and ground warp form
a ground weave that supports the pile loops.
[0048] In step
235, the article may undergo inspection. Any known process for inspection may be utilized.
For example, terry fabric may be manually inspected by a trained employee using a
light board (sometimes called a light box) or automatically inspected using a camera-based
visual inspection system.
[0049] In step
240, the article may undergo singeing and desizing in open width form. Singeing is only
applied to flat woven fabrics, such as bedding. Singeing is used to remove fine fibers
from the surface of the fabric to create a smoother fabric with a less hairy appearance.
In contrast, where a piled fabric is created, bio-polishing is done. Bio-polishing
is used decrease a fabric's tendency to pill by removing protruding fibers. Desizing
agents aid in the removal of added impurities in the form of starch and synthetic
sizes without having any effect on the fibers and yarn. It is important that these
impurities are removed to ensure better realization of further processing. Thus, desizing
is done to remove the sizing that was applied on the warp yarns prior to weaving.
[0050] In step
245, the fabric is washed in its open width form.
[0051] In step
250, the fabric is finished using a stenter. During this step the fabric is pulled and
held tight in the weft direction and subjected to finishing treatments. This step
ensures that the yarns are properly oriented prior to cutting and sewing.
[0052] In step
255, the finished fabric undergoes a second inspection.
[0053] In step
260, the fabric is cut apart.
[0054] In optional step
265, if the resulting textile is intended for use as a terry towel, length hemming occurs
to finish the raw edges of the towel. After length hemming, partially finished towel
may undergo cross-cutting in step
270 and cross hemming in step
275.
[0055] In optional step
280, where the resulting textile article is not a terry towel, the fabric may be stitched
or sewn in the manner required for the end application.
[0056] In step
285, the resulting article is subjected to a final inspection.
[0057] In step
290, the inspected article is packed into a bag.
[0058] In step
295, the textile article is carton packaged.
[0059] Figure 2A is a flowchart of an exemplary method
300 of processing fibers to form yarn for use in the preparation of fabrics. Method
300 comprises a yarn manufacturing method that comprises a yarn dyeing process and a
batch process for post-processing. In one embodiment, method
300 starts with step
305, in which primary fiber (e.g., the fiber that remains after dissolution) is received
from a supplier. The primary fibers may be a variety of fibers or a blend of different
fibers. For example, the primary fibers may be one or more of cotton, linen, hemp,
kapok, nettle, bamboo, lyocell, viscose, polyester (sustainable or recycled), PLA,
PBT, nylon, acrylic, etc. More specifically, the primary fiber may be cotton fibers.
Where a finer yarn is desired, finer fibers may be preferred (e.g., fibers with smaller
diameters). Likewise, for coarser yarn, coarser fibers may be preferred (e.g., fibers
with larger diameters).
[0060] In step
310, the primary fiber may be stored. When stored, the primary fibers may be conditioned
to a certain temperature or relative humidity to prepare the fibers for spinning.
As one of skill in the art would understand, the desired temperature and humidity
would be dependent, in part, upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will
occur.
[0061] In step
315, the fibers may be processed in a blow room. A person of skill in the art would recognize
that a blow room is where fiber is processed to prepare the fiber for yarn manufacturing.
In the blow room, fibers are selected for opening, cleaning, and blending.
[0062] In step
320, the fibers undergo carding. At this stage, the fibers are passed through carding
machines to remove short fibers and trash (e.g., vegetable matter and other undesirable
particulate), and individualize and align the fibers into slivers. After carding,
the slivers are subjected to a drawing process to further align the fibers. During
drawing, a number of carded slivers are fed through a drawing frame where they are
drafted to create a more uniform sliver. At this stage, the slivers made of the primary
fiber may be drafted with wool, silk, or wool/silk blended slivers to create a blended
sliver with soluble fibers. In slivers comprised of a wool and silk blend, the ratio
may be anywhere from 99:1 to 1:99. The content of the soluble fiber may make up 3%
to 40% of the end sliver. Low blend ratios are preferred, such as 3% to 10% because
these ranges are the most cost viable. It would be further preferred to have a 3.5%
to 7% ratio of soluble fiber. Generally, the resulting sliver should have a count
of 0.100 to 0.180 Ne (cotton count).
[0063] In optional step
325, the fibers may undergo lapping to remove shorter fibers and produce a more lustrous
resulting yarn. Generally, lapping is done where a longer fiber is required (for example,
to form a low twist yarn). In this step, 20 to 24 slivers are fed into the lapping
machine to produce one lap. A person of skill in the art would understand that laps
then input into a combing machine (thus, if optional step 125 is performed, optional
step 130 is also performed). Generally, the resulting lap should have a count of 0.0079
to 0.0091 Ne. These steps are generally used where a premium quality product is desired.
[0064] In optional step
330 (which is performed if optional step
325 is performed), the fibers undergo combing. During combing, the laps are passed through
a set of combs that further orient the fiber, as well as removing additional short
fibers and noils. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 laps are input into the combing
machine to produce one sliver. As previously discussed, lapping and combing are not
required. These steps are generally used where a premium quality product is desired.
[0065] In step
335, the resulting slivers undergo breaker drawing. Breaker drawing may be done whether
or not the fibers were combed. In certain embodiments, the fibers may proceed from
carding in step
320 directly to step
335 to undergo breaker drawing. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through
the drawing frame together. These slivers are subjected to drafting, most commonly:
a breaker draft and a main draft. During each of the drafting stages, a set of rollers
(appropriately spaced to minimize fiber breakage) is calibrated to ensure that the
resulting weight per length is appropriately sized.
[0066] In some embodiments, the fibers which underwent combing in step
330, may be combined with the fibers that underwent carding and breaker drawing to undergo
a finisher drawing in step
340. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through the drawing machine to produce
one blended sliver. The fibers may be blended in such a way as to create bundles or
tufts of wool and/or silk dispersed throughout the primary fiber in the resulting
blended sliver. These tufts, when dissolved, leave pores in yarn cross-sections. These
pores are desirable in certain applications where their unique absorbency and wicking
properties are desirable. Alternatively, the wool and/or cotton may be evenly distributed
throughout the cotton-blend sliver. Where the soluble fiber is evenly distributed,
the pores left after dissolving are smaller than the pores that result from tufts
of wool and/or silk. These pores are desirable in certain applications where their
unique absorbency and wicking properties are desired.
[0067] In a parallel process, in step
345, the soluble fibers may be received. Desirable soluble fibers include wool, silk,
and suitable combinations thereof. As a person of skill in the art would understand,
wool and silk fibers have varying properties. For example, wool may be fine (i.e.,
possess a small diameter) or coarse (i.e., possess a large diameter). When engineering
a fabric, the fiber properties of the variety of soluble fiber must be considered,
as well as other factors such as ratio of primary to soluble fiber, and blend characteristics
(e.g., if the soluble fiber is dispersed in tufts or as single fibers).
[0068] In step
350, the soluble fibers may be stored. When stored, the processed fibers may be conditioned
to a certain temperature or relative humidity to prepare the fibers for spinning.
[0069] As one of skill in the art would understand, the desired temperature and humidity
would be dependent, in part, upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will
occur.
[0070] In step
355, the soluble fibers may be processed in a blow room. A person of skill in the art
would recognize that a blow room is where fiber is processed to prepare the fiber
for yarn manufacturing. In the blow room, fibers are selected for opening, cleaning,
and blending. In the blow room, the soluble fibers may be blended together to achieve
the desired ratio.
[0071] In step
360, the soluble fibers may undergo carding and become sliver. At this stage, the fibers
are passed through carding machines to remove short fibers and trash (e.g., vegetable
matter and other undesirable particulate), and individualize and align the fibers
into slivers. After carding, the slivers are subjected to a drawing process to further
align the fibers. During drawing, a number of carded slivers are fed through a drawing
frame where they are drafted to create a more uniform sliver. In slivers comprised
of a wool and silk blend, the ratio may be anywhere from 99:1 to 1:99. The content
of the soluble fiber may make up 3% to 40% of the end sliver (e.g., the sliver comprising
a blend of primary and soluble fiber). Low blend ratios are preferred, such as 3%
to 10% because these ranges are the most cost viable. It would be further preferred
to have a 3.5% to 7% ratio of soluble fiber. Generally, the resulting sliver should
have a count of 0.100 to 0.180 Ne (cotton count).
[0072] In step
365, the soluble fibers may undergo drawing to ensure the unity of the fibers in the
stream. After step
365, drawn slivers are finisher drawn in step
340. Generally, in during finisher drawing, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through the drawing
machine to produce one blended sliver. The fibers may be blended in such a way as
to create bundles or tufts of wool and/or silk dispersed throughout the primary fiber
in the resulting blended sliver. These tufts, when dissolved, leave pores in yarn
cross-sections. These pores are desirable in certain applications where their unique
absorbency and wicking properties are desirable. Alternatively, the wool and/or cotton
may be evenly distributed throughout the cotton-blend sliver. Where the soluble fiber
is evenly distributed, the pores left after dissolving are smaller than the pores
that result from tufts of wool and/or silk. These pores are desirable in certain applications
where their unique absorbency and wicking properties are desired.
[0073] In step
370, the blended slivers produced through any combination of the forgoing processes undergo
speed frame roving. A person of skill in the art will understand that roving is required
for ring spinning. During roving, slivers are further drafted to reduce the weight
per length and a low amount of twist is inserted.
[0074] In step
375, the roving created in step
370 undergoes ring spinning. Ring spinning is desirable for applications, such as terry
toweling, rugs, bedding, and leisure fabrics, where softness is desired. Further,
yarn spinning produces yarns with desirable elasticity. During ring spinning roving
is fed into the ring spinning machine and bobbins of yarn is output. Generally, the
resulting yarn should have a count of 6 Ne to 120 Ne. Additionally, a new attachment
in the ring spinning system was utilized to eliminate the spinning triangle formed
in a conventional ring system. This attachment provides multiple benefits, including
reducing yarn hairiness and yarn breakage during spinning, and increasing yarn strength
(making lower twist ratios possible) and yarn evenness (lower coefficient of variation).
These yarn benefits also provide greater weaving efficiency (i.e., enables higher
picks per minute and decreases downtime due to broken yarns). Additionally, a finer
yarn count may be obtained by changing the blend ratios. In place of Ring Spinning,
a Rotor Spinning, Friction Spinning, Air Jet Spinning or Compact Spinning may also
be used in the alternate.
[0075] In step
380, after spinning the bobbins of yarn may be combined onto a cone using an autoconer.
Cones are required to convert the bobbins to larger packages suitable for textile
processing.
[0076] In step
385, the yarns may undergo plying. During this step, yarns of the same or different counts
may be plied together. Similarly, yarns with the same fiber and blend content, or
yarns with differing fiber and blend contents may be plied. The number of yarns plied
may be two or more.
[0077] In step
390, the yarns may be wound onto suitable packages. For example, yarns may be wound off
of tapered cones onto cylindrical tubes or other forms of packaging more suitable
for warping and weaving.
[0078] Figure 2B is a flowchart of a fabric manufacturing method that comprises a yarn dyeing process
and a batch post process illustrating exemplary method
400 of processing yarns into fabrics.
[0079] In step
405, yarn is received from a supplier or the spinning room.
[0080] In step
410, the yarn may be stored. When stored, the yarns may be conditioned to a certain temperature
or relative humidity to prepare the yarns for weaving. As one of skill in the art
would understand, the desired temperature and humidity would be dependent, in part,
upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will occur.
[0081] In step
415, the soluble fibers may be dissolved. For example, the wool and/or silk fibers may
be dissolved in alkali (for example including but not limited to NaOH), an enzyme,
or a combination thereof. As one of skill in the art would understand, it may be desirable
to bleach and/or pre-treat the yarn before dyeing. During the bleaching and/or pretreating
process, the packages may be loaded into a machine where they are placed in a water
bath. The temperature of the water bath may be increased before a wetting agent is
applied. A wetting agent lowers the surface tension of a liquid to allow easier spreading,
lower the interfacial tension between two liquids, and aid in cleaning the surface
of fibers, and improve the solubility of reactive and disperse dyeing. A stabilizer
for hydrogen peroxide bleaching may be used to achieve uniform bleaching by suppressing
rapid decomposition of hydrogen peroxide. A stabilizer prevents degradation of strength
and pinholes by suppressing decomposition. Thus, a stabilizer plays an important role
to obtain high quality bleached products. A lubricant in low liquor ratios and high
temperature, when fabric is processed in full-loaded rope dyeing machines (jets, overflows
or winch becks) fabric prone to crease (line caused by folding), chafe (damaged by
rubbing) as well as wrinkle line. In high temperature, if crease or chafe marks or
wrinkle lines are formed, these are permanently seen on the fabric surface and cannot
be removed easily. Thus, the lubricating agent is used to prevent running crease,
crack, chafe, and crush marks, as well as wrinkle lines. It offers reliability in
the pretreatment, dyeing and soaking bath for difficult textiles. A core alkali neutralizer
(or "buffer") may be added after the bleaching process to remove the alkali and control
the pH for further processing. A level agent (or "retarding agent" or "retarder")
may be used to aid in fixing the dye to the yarn and obtain a uniform shade. After
the soluble fibers are dissolved the yarn may be dyed.
[0082] For example, the bleaching process may start out with a loading step where the yarn
packages are placed in a water bath and the temperature of the bath is increased to
70 °C. When the bath reaches 70 °C, a wetting agent (e.g., a commercially available
wetting agent 1.25±0.20 g/l) and, a peroxide stabilizer (e.g., a commercially available
peroxide stabilizer 0.50±0.20 g/l), caustic soda (5.50 ± 0.50 g/l), and a lubricant
(e.g., a commercially available lubricant 0.50±0.20 g/l) are added and the bath temperature
is increased to 75 °C over the course of five minutes. Once the bath reaches 75 °C,
hydrogen peroxide (4.75 ± 0.50 g/l) is introduced to the bath. The yarns dwell at
75 °C for approximately ten minutes before the temperature is increased to 100 °C
over the course of five minutes. Once the temperature reaches 100 °C, the bath is
maintained at that temperature for 25 minutes. The bath is then drained and the yarn
is subjected to a hot water (90 °C) rinse. After the hot water rinse, the bath is
once again drained. The bath is then refilled with 45 °C water and a core alkali neutralizer
or buffer (e.g., a commercially core alkali neutralizer or buffer 0.35 ± 0.20 g/l)
and an acid to maintain the bath pH (e.g., acetic acid or Green Acid (1.00 ± 0.20
g/l)) are introduced. The yarn dwells in this bath at 45 °C for 29 minutes before
a lubricating agent (e.g., a commercially available lubricating agent 0.50 ± 0.20
g/l) and a peroxide stabilizer (e.g., a commercially available peroxide stabilizer
0.50 ± 0.20 g/l) are introduced. The yarn dwells in the modified bath for an additional
five minutes before the bath is drained. The entire cycle may take 119 minutes.
[0083] Alternatively, the bleaching process may start out with a loading step where the
yarn packages are placed in a water bath and the temperature of the bath is increased
to 70 °C. When the bath reaches 70 °C, non-ionic wetting agent (e.g., a commercially
available wetting agent) (1.25 ± 0.20 g/l)) and caustic soda (10.00 ± 2.00 g/l), and
lubricating agent (e.g., a commercially available lubricating agent 0.50 ± 0.20 g/l)
are added and the bath temperature is increased to 75 °C over the course of five minutes.
Once the bath reaches 75 °C, a peroxide stabilizer (e.g., a commercially available
peroxide stabilizer 7.50 ± 1.00 g/l) is introduced to the bath. The yarns dwell at
75 °C for approximately ten minutes before the temperature is increased to 100 °C
over the course of five minutes. Once the temperature reaches 100 °C, the bath is
maintained at that temperature for 25 minutes. The bath is then drained and the yarn
is subjected to a hot water (90 °C) rinse. After the hot water rinse, the bath is
once again drained. The bath is then refilled with 45 °C water and core neutralizer
(e.g., a commercially available core neutralizer 0.35 ± 0.20 g/l) and an acid to maintain
the bath pH, such as acetic acid or Green Acid (1.50 ± 0.20 g/l) are introduced. The
yarn dwells in this bath at 45 °C for 29 minutes before a lubricating agent (e.g.,
a commercially available lubricating agent 0.50 ± 0.20 g/l) and a levelling agent
(e.g., a commercially available leveling agent 0.40 to 0.60 g/l) are introduced and
followed by dye as per required depth of shade is dosed in the bath to complete the
dyeing process. The yarn dwells in the modified bath for an additional five minutes
before the bath is drained. The entire cycle may take 119 minutes.
[0084] In step
420, the yarn undergoes warping. Any known process for warping, including high speed/direct
warping, sectional/indirect warping, and/or ball warping, may be utilized in this
step.
[0085] In step
425, the yarn undergoes sizing. Any known process for sizing, including wet sizing, solvent
sizing, cold sizing, and/or hot melt sizing, may be utilized in this step.
[0086] In step
430, the yarn undergoes weaving. Any known process for weaving, including terry weaving,
may be utilized. For example, in terry weaving, two warp beams are prepared (one for
the ground warp and one for the pile warp). These two warps are fed through the loom
at different speeds to create loops on the pile warp. The weft and ground warp form
a ground weave that supports the pile loops.
[0087] In step
435, the article may undergo inspection. Any known process for inspection may be utilized.
For example, terry fabric may be manually inspected by a trained employee using a
light board (sometimes called a light box) or automatically inspected using a camera-based
visual inspection system.
[0088] In step
440, the article may undergo singeing and desizing in open width form. Singeing is only
applied to flat woven fabrics, such as bedding. Singeing is used to remove fine fibers
from the surface of the fabric to create a smoother fabric with a less hairy appearance.
In contrast, where a piled fabric is created, bio-polishing is done. Bio-polishing
is used decrease a fabric's tendency to pill by removing protruding fibers. Desizing
agents aid in the removal of added impurities in the form of starch and synthetic
sizes without having any effect on the fibers and yarn. It is important that these
impurities are removed to ensure better realization of further processing. Thus, desizing
is done to remove the sizing that was placed on the warp yarns prior to weaving.
[0089] In step
445, the fabric is washed in its rope form.
[0090] In step
450, if terry toweling or similar fabric is being manufactured, the washed "rope" of
fabric is opened.
[0091] In step
452, the fabric is finished using a stenter. During this step the fabric is pulled taught
in the weft direction and subjected to finishing treatments. This step ensures that
the yarns are properly oriented prior to cutting and sewing.
[0092] In step
455, the finished fabric undergoes a second inspection.
[0093] In step
460, the fabric is cut apart.
[0094] In step optional
465, if the resulting textile is intended for use as a terry towel or similar product,
then length hemming occurs to finish the raw edges of the towel. After length hemming,
partially finished towel may undergo cross-cutting
470 and cross hemming
475.
[0095] In optional step
480, where the resulting textile article is not a terry towel, the fabric may be stitched
or sewn in the manner required.
[0096] In step
485, the resulting article is subjected to a final inspection.
[0097] In step
490, the textiles are packed into bags.
[0098] In step
495, the bagged textiles are carton packaged.
[0099] Figure 3A is a flowchart of a yarn manufacturing method that comprises a continuous fabric
dyeing process illustrating an exemplary method
500 of processing fibers to form yarn for use in the preparation of fabrics. In one embodiment,
method
500 starts with step
505, in which primary fiber (e.g., the fiber that remains after dissolution) is received
from a supplier. The primary fibers may be a variety of fibers or a blend of different
fibers. For example, the primary fibers may be one or more of cotton, linen, hemp,
kapok, nettle, bamboo, lyocell, viscose, polyester (sustainable or recycled), PLA,
PBT, nylon, acrylic, etc. More specifically, the primary fiber may be cotton fibers.
Where a finer yarn is desired, finer fibers may be preferred (e.g., fibers with smaller
diameters). Likewise, for coarser yarn, coarser fibers may be preferred (e.g., fibers
with larger diameters).
[0100] In step
510, the primary fiber may be stored. When stored, the primary fibers may be conditioned
to a certain temperature or relative humidity to prepare the fibers for spinning.
As one of skill in the art would understand, the desired temperature and humidity
would be dependent, in part, upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will
occur.
[0101] In step
515, the fibers may be processed in a blow room. A person of skill in the art would recognize
that a blow room is where fiber is processed to prepare the fiber for yarn manufacturing.
In the blow room, fibers are selected for opening, cleaning, and blending.
[0102] In step
520, the fibers undergo carding. At this stage, the fibers are passed through carding
machines to remove short fibers and trash (e.g., vegetable matter and other undesirable
particulate), and individualize and align the fibers into slivers. After carding,
the slivers are subjected to a drawing process to further align the fibers. During
drawing, a number of carded slivers are fed through a drawing frame where they are
drafted to create a more uniform sliver. At this stage, the slivers made of the primary
fiber may be drafted with wool, silk, or wool/silk blended slivers to create a blended
sliver with soluble fibers. In slivers comprised of a wool and silk blend, the ratio
may be anywhere from 99:1 to 1:99. The content of the soluble fiber may make up 3%
to 40% of the end sliver. Low blend ratios are preferred, such as 3% to 10% because
these ranges are the most cost viable. It would be further preferred to have a 3.5%
to 7% ratio of soluble fiber. Generally, the resulting sliver should have a count
of 0.100 to 0.180 Ne (cotton count).
[0103] In optional step
525, the fibers may undergo lapping to remove shorter fibers and produce a more lustrous
resulting yarn. Generally, lapping is done where a longer fiber is required (for example,
to form a low twist yarn). In this step, 20 to 24 slivers are fed into the lapping
machine to produce one lap. A person of skill in the art would understand that the
laps are then fed into a combing machine (thus, if optional step
525 is performed, optional step
530 is also performed). Generally, the resulting lap should have a count of 0.0079 to
0.0091 Ne. These steps are generally used where a premium quality product is desired.
[0104] In optional step
530 (which is performed if optional step
525 is performed), the fibers undergo combing. During combing, the laps are passed through
a set of combs that further orient the fiber, as well as remove additional short fibers.
Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 laps are input into the combing machine to produce
one sliver. As previously discussed, lapping and combing are not required. These steps
are generally used where a premium quality product is desired.
[0105] In step
535, the resulting slivers undergo breaker drawing. Breaker drawing may be done whether
or not the fibers were combed. In certain embodiments, the fibers may proceed from
carding in step
520 directly to step
535 to undergo breaker drawing. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through
the drawing frame together. These slivers are subjected to drafting, most commonly:
a breaker draft and a main draft. During each of the drafting stages, a set of rollers
(appropriately spaced to minimize fiber breakage) is calibrated to ensure that the
resulting weight per length is appropriately sized.
[0106] In some embodiments, the fibers which underwent combing in step
530, may be combined with the fibers that underwent carding and breaker drawing to undergo
a finisher drawing in step
540. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through the drawing machine to produce
one blended sliver. The fibers may be blended in such a way as to create bundles or
tufts of wool and/or silk dispersed throughout the primary fiber in the resulting
blended sliver. These tufts, when dissolved, leave pores in yarn cross-sections. These
pores are desirable in certain applications where their unique absorbency and wicking
properties are desirable. Alternatively, the wool and/or cotton may be evenly distributed
throughout the cotton-blend sliver. Where the soluble fiber is evenly distributed,
the pores left after dissolving are smaller than the pores that result from tufts
of wool and/or silk. These pores are desirable in certain applications where their
unique absorbency and wicking properties are desired.
[0107] In a parallel process, in step
545, the soluble fibers may be received. Desirable soluble fibers include wool, silk,
and suitable combinations thereof. As a person of skill in the art would understand,
wool and silk fibers have varying properties. For example, wool may be fine (i.e.,
possess a small diameter) or coarse (i.e., possess a large diameter). When engineering
a fabric, the fiber properties of the variety of soluble fiber must be considered,
as well as other factors such as ratio of primary to soluble fiber, and blend characteristics
(e.g., if the soluble fiber is dispersed in tufts or as single fibers).
[0108] In step
550, the soluble fibers may be stored. When stored, the processed fibers may be conditioned
to a certain temperature or relative humidity to prepare the fibers for spinning.
As one of skill in the art would understand, the desired temperature and humidity
would be dependent, in part, upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will
occur.
[0109] In step
555, the soluble fibers may be processed in a blow room. A person of skill in the art
would recognize that a blow room is where fiber is processed to prepare the fiber
for yarn manufacturing. In the blow room, fibers are selected for opening, cleaning,
and blending. In the blow room, the soluble fibers may be blended together to achieve
the desired ratio.
[0110] In step
560, the soluble fibers may undergo carding and become sliver. At this stage, the fibers
are passed through carding machines to remove short fibers and trash (e.g., vegetable
matter and other undesirable particulate), and individualize and align the fibers
into slivers. After carding, the slivers are subjected to a drawing process to further
align the fibers. During drawing, a number of carded slivers are fed through a drawing
frame where they are drafted to create a more uniform sliver. In slivers comprised
of a wool and silk blend, the ratio may be anywhere from 99:1 to 1:99. The content
of the soluble fiber may make up 3% to 40% of the end sliver (e.g., the sliver comprising
a blend of primary and soluble fiber). Low blend ratios are preferred, such as 3%
to 10% because these ranges are the most cost viable. It would be further preferred
to have a 3.5% to 7% ratio of soluble fiber. Generally, the resulting sliver should
have a count of 0.100 to 0.180 Ne (cotton count).
[0111] In step
565, the soluble fibers may undergo drawing to ensure the unity of the fibers in the
stream. After step
565, drawn slivers are finisher drawn in step
540. Generally, in during finisher drawing, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through the drawing
machine to produce one blended sliver. The fibers may be blended in such a way as
to create bundles or tufts of wool and/or silk dispersed throughout the primary fiber
in the resulting blended sliver. These tufts, when dissolved, leave pores in yarn
cross-sections. These pores are desirable in certain applications where their unique
absorbency and wicking properties are desirable. Alternatively, the wool and/or cotton
may be evenly distributed throughout the cotton-blend sliver. Where the soluble fiber
is evenly distributed, the pores left after dissolving are smaller than the pores
that result from tufts of wool and/or silk. These pores are desirable in certain applications
where their unique absorbency and wicking properties are desired.
[0112] In step
570, the blended slivers produced through any combination of the forgoing processes undergo
speed frame roving. A person of skill in the art will understand that roving is required
for ring spinning. During roving, slivers are further drafted to reduce the weight
per length and a low amount of twist is inserted.
[0113] In step
575, the roving created in step
570 undergoes ring spinning. Ring spinning is desirable for applications, such as terry
toweling, rugs, bedding, and leisure fabrics, where softness is desired. Further,
yarn spinning produces yarns with desirable elasticity. During ring spinning roving
is fed into the ring spinning machine and bobbins of yarn are output. Generally, the
resulting yarn should have a count of 6 Ne to 120 Ne. Additionally, a new attachment
in the ring spinning system was utilized to eliminate the spinning triangle formed
in a conventional ring system. This attachment provides multiple benefits, including
reducing yarn hairiness and yarn breakage during spinning, and increasing yarn strength
(making lower twist ratios possible) and yarn evenness (lower coefficient of variation).
These yarn benefits also provide greater weaving efficiency (i.e., enables higher
picks per minute and decreases downtime due to broken yarns). Additionally, a finer
yarn count may be obtained by changing the blend ratios. In place of Ring Spinning,
a Rotor Spinning, Friction Spinning, Air Jet Spinning or Compact Spinning may also
be used in the alternate.
[0114] In step
580, after spinning the bobbins of yarn may be combined onto a cone using an autoconer.
Cones are required to convert the bobbins to larger packages suitable for textile
processing.
[0115] In step
585, the yarns may undergo plying. During this step, yarns of the same or different counts
may be plied together. Similarly, yarns with the same fiber and blend content, or
yarns with differing fiber and blend contents may be plied. The number of yarns plied
may be two or more.
[0116] In step
590, the yarns may be wound onto suitable packages. For example, yarns may be wound off
of tapered cones onto cylindrical tubes or other forms of packaging more suitable
for warping and weaving.
[0117] Figure 3B is a flowchart of a fabric manufacturing method that comprises a continuous fabric
dyeing process. Illustrating an exemplary method
600 of processing yarns into fabrics.
[0118] In step
605, yarn is received from a supplier or the spinning room.
[0119] In step
610, the yarn may be stored. When stored, the yarns may be conditioned to a certain temperature
or relative humidity to prepare the yarns for weaving. As one of skill in the art
would understand, the desired temperature and humidity would be dependent, in part,
upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will occur.
[0120] In step
615, the yarn undergoes warping. Any known process for warping, including high speed/direct
warping, sectional/indirect warping, and/or ball warping, may be utilized in this
step.
[0121] In step
620, the yarn undergoes sizing. Any known process for sizing, including wet sizing, solvent
sizing, cold sizing, and/or hot melt sizing, may be utilized in this step.
[0122] In step
625, the yarn undergoes weaving. Any known process for weaving, including terry weaving,
may be utilized. For example, in terry weaving, two warp beams are prepared (one for
the ground warp and one for the pile warp). These two warps are fed through the loom
at different speeds to create loops on the pile warp. The weft and ground warp form
a ground weave that supports the pile loops.
[0123] In step 630, the fabric may undergo inspection. Any known process for inspection
may be utilized. For example, terry fabric may be manually inspected by a trained
employee using a light board (sometimes called a light box) or automatically inspected
using a camera-based visual inspection system.
[0124] In step
635, the resulting fabric may be treated using a plasma treatment. Effect of plasma treatment:
Plasma treatment is a dry state treatment on to any textile surface before any wet
processing. Essentially, four main effects can be obtained depending on the treatment
conditions: surface cleaning, etching, surface activation, and polymerization. Thus,
plasma treatments find their application in the textile field for a variety of purposes
including modification of surface energy, modification of surface topography, improvement
of adhesion, and surface cleaning. References,
R. Abd. Jelil, A review of low-temperature plasma treatment of textile materials,
50 J. MATER SCI. 5913 (2015);
Sheila Shahidi et al., Study of Surface Modification of Wool Fabrics Using Low Temperature
Plasma, PROC. OF THE 3RD INT'L CONF. ON THE FRONTIERS OF PLASMA PHYSICS AND TECH.
1 (2008);
Amelia Sparavigna, Plasma treatment advantages for textiles. ARXIV: POPULAR PHYSICS.
1-16.; describe the plasma treatment process in detail and are incorporated herein by
reference. In certain embodiments, a plasma treatment is used for surface etching
and the creation of micro cracks on the wool fiber. Thus, absorbency of the wool fiber
will increase, resulting in faster dissolution of wool fiber with various manufacturing
benefits (e.g., reduces the volume of chemicals, water, and power required to treat
the fabric). Hence, plasma treated fabrics are more sustainable. More specifically,
in certain embodiments, plasma treatment occurs at ambient conditions (temperature
and pressure are normal) at a speed of 20 to 40 meters per minute at a power of 16
Kw. A variety of plasma systems may be utilized. For example, atmospheric/air plasma
(dry), or N
2, Argon, or a combination thereof.
[0125] In step
640, the plasma treated fabric is subjected to a continuous process pretreatment. The
pretreatment stage comprises desizing, scouring, and/or bleaching, where the soluble
fibers may be dissolved. For example, the wool and/or silk fibers may be dissolved
in NaOH, an enzyme, or a combination thereof. As the fabric undergoes desizing, desizing
agents aid in the removal of added impurities the form of starch and synthetic sizes
without having any effect on the fabric. It is important that these impurities are
removed to ensure better realization of further processing. After desizing, the fabric
then undergoes scouring and bleaching. In this pretreatment process, the fabric may
be loaded into a machine where they are placed in a water bath. The temperature of
the water bath may be increased to 70 °C. When the temperature reaches 70 °C, a wetting
agent (e.g., a commercially available wetting agent 1.25±0.20 g/l) and a desizing
agent (e.g., a commercially available desizing agent 0.40±0.20 g/l) are added. These
chemicals are used to wet and desize the fabric over twenty minutes while the bath
is maintained at 70 °C. After desizing, a peroxide stabilizer (e.g., a commercially
available peroxide stabilizer 0.50±0.20 g/l), caustic soda (5.50 ± 0.50 g/l), and
a lubricant (e.g., a commercially available lubricant 0.50±0.20 g/l) are added and
the bath temperature is increased to 75 °C over the course of five minutes. Once the
bath reaches 75 °C, hydrogen peroxide (4.75 ± 0.50 g/l) is introduced to the bath.
The fabric dwells at 75 °C for approximately ten minutes before the temperature is
increased to 100 °C over the course of five minutes. Once the temperature reaches
100 °C, the bath is maintained at that temperature for 25 minutes. The bath is then
drained and the fabric is subjected to a hot water (90 °C) rinse. After the hot water
rinse, the bath is once again drained. The bath is then refilled with 45 °C water
and a core alkali neutralizer or buffer (e.g., a commercially core alkali neutralizer
or buffer 0.35 ± 0.20 g/l) and an acid to maintain the bath pH (e.g., acetic acid
or Green Acid (1.00 ± 0.20 g/l)) are introduced. The fabric dwells in this bath at
45 °C for 29 minutes before a lubricating agent (e.g., a commercially available lubricating
agent 0.50 ± 0.20 g/l) and a peroxide stabilizer (e.g., a commercially available peroxide
stabilizer 0.50 ± 0.20 g/l) are introduced. The fabric dwells in the modified bath
for an additional five minutes before the bath is drained. The entire cycle may take
119 minutes. Alternatively, the bleaching process may start out with a loading step
where the fabric is placed in a water bath and the temperature of the bath is increased
to 70 °C. When the bath reaches 70 °C, non-ionic wetting agent (e.g., a commercially
available wetting agent (1.25 ± 0.20 g/l)) and enzymatic desizing agent (e.g., a commercially
available desizing agent 0.40 ± 0.20 g/l) are added. The non-ionic wetting agent and
enzymatic desizing agent are used to desize the fabric over twenty minutes while the
bath is maintained at 70 °C. After desizing, enzymatic desizing agent (e.g., a commercially
available enzymatic desizing agent 0.50 ± 0.20 g/l), caustic soda (10.00 ± 2.00 g/l),
and lubricating agent (e.g., a commercially available lubricating agent 0.50 ± 0.20
g/l) are added and the bath temperature is increased to 75 °C over the course of five
minutes. Once the bath reaches 75 °C, a peroxide stabilizer (e.g., a commercially
available peroxide stabilizer 7.50 ± 1.00 g/l) is introduced to the bath. The fabric
dwells at 75 °C for approximately ten minutes before the temperature is increased
to 100 °C over the course of five minutes. Once the temperature reaches 100 °C, the
bath is maintained at that temperature for 25 minutes. The bath is then drained and
the fabric is subjected to a hot water (90 °C) rinse. After the hot water rinse, the
bath is once again drained. The bath is then refilled with 45 °C water and core neutralizer
(e.g., a commercially available core neutralizer 0.35 ± 0.20 g/l) and an acid to maintain
the bath pH, such as acetic acid or Green Acid (1.50 ± 0.20 g/l) are introduced. The
fabric dwells in this bath at 45 °C for 29 minutes before a lubricating agent (e.g.,
a commercially available lubricating agent 0.50 ± 0.20 g/l) and a levelling agent
(e.g., a commercially available leveling agent 0.40 to 0.60 g/l) are introduced. The
fabric dwells in the modified bath for an additional five minutes before the bath
is drained. The entire cycle may take 119 minutes.
[0126] In step
645, the fabric is dyed or printed. One of skill in the art would understand that the
dyeing process depends upon the fiber being dyed. In certain applications, printing
may be desirable. Printing may be achieved using any technical method. For example,
printing may be achieved with screen printing, block printing, or digital printing.
[0127] In step
650, the fabric is finished using a stenter. During this step the fabric is pulled taught
in the weft direction and subjected to finishing treatments. This step ensures that
the yarns are properly oriented prior to cutting and sewing.
[0128] In step
655, the finished fabric undergoes a second inspection.
[0129] In step
660, the fabric is cut a part.
[0130] In optional step
665, if the resulting textile is intended for use as a terry towel, then length hemming
occurs to finish the raw edges of the towel. After length hemming, partially finished
towel may undergo cross-cutting
670 and cross hemming
675.
[0131] In optional step
680, where the resulting textile article is not a terry towel, the fabric may be stitched
or sewn in the manner required.
[0132] In step
685, the resulting article is subjected to a final inspection.
[0133] In step
690, the textile is packed into bags.
[0134] In step
695, the bagged textile is carton packaged.
[0135] Figure 4A is a flowchart of a yarn manufacturing method that comprises a batch fabric dyeing
process illustrating an exemplary method
700 of processing fibers to form yarn for use in the preparation of fabrics. In one embodiment,
method
700 starts with step
705, in which primary fiber (e.g., the fiber that remains after dissolution) is received
from a supplier. The primary fibers may be a variety of fibers or a blend of different
fibers. For example, the primary fibers may be one or more of cotton, linen, hemp,
kapok, nettle, bamboo, lyocell, viscose, polyester (sustainable or recycled), PLA,
PBT, nylon, acrylic, etc. More specifically, the primary fiber may be cotton fibers.
Where a finer yarn is desired, finer fibers may be preferred (e.g., fibers with smaller
diameters). Likewise, for coarser yarn, coarser fibers may be preferred (e.g., fibers
with larger diameters).
[0136] In step
710, the primary fiber may be stored. When stored, the primary fibers may be conditioned
to a certain temperature or relative humidity to prepare the fibers for spinning.
[0137] As one of skill in the art would understand, the desired temperature and humidity
would be dependent, in part, upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will
occur.
[0138] In step
715, the fibers may be processed in a blow room. A person of skill in the art would recognize
that a blow room is where fiber is processed to prepare the fiber for yarn manufacturing.
In the blow room, fibers are selected for opening, cleaning, and blending.
[0139] In step
720, the fibers undergo carding. At this stage, the fibers are passed through carding
machines to remove short fibers and trash (e.g., vegetable matter and other undesirable
particulate), and individualize and align the fibers into slivers. After carding,
the slivers are subjected to a drawing process to further align the fibers. During
drawing, a number of carded slivers are fed through a drawing frame where they are
drafted to create a more uniform sliver. At this stage, the slivers made of the primary
fiber may be drafted with wool, silk, or wool/silk blended slivers to create a blended
sliver with soluble fibers. In slivers comprised of a wool and silk blend, the ratio
may be anywhere from 99:1 to 1:99. The content of the soluble fiber may make up 3%
to 40% of the end sliver. Low blend ratios are preferred, such as 3% to 10% because
these ranges are the most cost viable. It would be further preferred to have a 3.5%
to 7% ratio of soluble fiber. Generally, the resulting sliver should have a count
of 0.100 to 0.180 Ne (cotton count).
[0140] In optional step
725, the fibers may undergo lapping and followed by combing operation to remove shorter
fibers and produce a more lustrous resulting yarn. Generally, lapping is done where
a longer fiber is required (for example, to form a low twist yarn). In this step,
20 to 24 slivers are fed into the lapping machine to produce one lap. A person of
skill in the art would understand that laps then input into a combing machine (thus,
if optional step
725 is performed, optional step
730 is also performed). Generally, the resulting lap should have a count of 0.0079 to
0.0091 Ne. These steps are generally used where a premium quality product is desired.
[0141] In optional step
730 (which is performed if optional step
725 is performed), the fibers undergo combing. During combing, the laps are passed through
a set of combs that further orient the fiber, as well as removing additional short
fibers and noils. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 laps are input into the combing
machine to produce one sliver. As previously discussed, lapping and combing are not
required. These steps are generally used where a premium quality product is desired.
[0142] In step
735, the resulting slivers undergo breaker drawing. Breaker drawing may be done whether
or not the fibers were combed. In certain embodiments, the fibers may proceed from
carding in step
720 directly to step
735 to undergo breaker drawing. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through
the drawing frame together. These slivers are subjected to drafting, most commonly:
a breaker draft and a main draft. During each of the drafting stages, a set of rollers
(appropriately spaced to minimize fiber breakage) is calibrated to ensure that the
resulting weight per length is appropriately sized.
[0143] In some embodiments, the fibers which underwent combing in step
730, may be combined with the fibers that underwent carding and breaker drawing to undergo
a finisher drawing in step
740. Generally, in this step, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through the drawing machine to produce
one blended sliver. The fibers may be blended in such a way as to create bundles or
tufts of wool and/or silk dispersed throughout the primary fiber in the resulting
blended sliver. These tufts, when dissolved, leave pores in yarn cross-sections. These
pores are desirable in certain applications where their unique absorbency and wicking
properties are desirable. Alternatively, the wool and/or cotton may be evenly distributed
throughout the cotton-blend sliver. Where the soluble fiber is evenly distributed,
the pores left after dissolving are smaller than the pores that result from tufts
of wool and/or silk. These pores are desirable in certain applications where their
unique absorbency and wicking properties are desired.
[0144] In a parallel process, in step
745, the soluble fibers may be received. Desirable soluble fibers include wool, silk,
and suitable combinations thereof. As a person of skill in the art would understand,
wool and silk fibers have varying properties. For example, wool may be fine (i.e.,
possess a small diameter) or coarse (i.e., possess a large diameter). When engineering
a fabric, the fiber properties of the variety of soluble fiber must be considered,
as well as other factors such as ratio of primary to soluble fiber, and blend characteristics
(e.g., if the soluble fiber is dispersed in tufts or as single fibers).
[0145] In step
750, the soluble fibers may be stored. When stored, the processed fibers may be conditioned
to a certain temperature or relative humidity to prepare the fibers for spinning.
As one of skill in the art would understand, the desired temperature and humidity
would be dependent, in part, upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will
occur.
[0146] In step
755, the soluble fibers may be processed in a blow room. A person of skill in the art
would recognize that a blow room is where fiber is processed to prepare the fiber
for yarn manufacturing. In the blow room, fibers are selected for opening, cleaning,
and blending. In the blow room, the soluble fibers may be blended together to achieve
the desired ratio.
[0147] In step
760, the soluble fibers may undergo carding and become sliver. At this stage, the fibers
are passed through carding machines to remove short fibers, and trash (e.g., vegetable
matter and other undesirable particulate), and individualization and align the fibers
into slivers. After carding, the slivers are subjected to a drawing process to further
align the fibers. During drawing, a number of carded slivers are fed through a drawing
frame where they are drafted to create a more uniform sliver. In slivers comprised
of a wool and silk blend, the ratio may be anywhere from 99:1 to 1:99. The content
of the soluble fiber may make up 3% to 40% of the end sliver (e.g., the sliver comprising
a blend of primary and soluble fiber). Low blend ratios are preferred, such as 3%
to 10% because these ranges are the most cost viable. It would be further preferred
to have a 3.5% to 7% ratio of soluble fiber. Generally, the resulting sliver should
have a count of 0.100 to 0.180 Ne (cotton count).
[0148] In step
765, the soluble fibers may undergo drawing to ensure the unity of the fibers in the
stream. After step
765, drawn slivers are finisher drawn in step
740. Generally, in during finisher drawing, 6 to 8 slivers are fed through the drawing
machine to produce one blended sliver. The fibers may be blended in such a way as
to create bundles or tufts of wool and/or silk dispersed throughout the primary fiber
in the resulting blended sliver. These tufts, when dissolved, leave pores in yarn
cross-sections. These pores are desirable in certain applications where their unique
absorbency and wicking properties are desirable. Alternatively, the wool and/or cotton
may be evenly distributed throughout the cotton-blend sliver. Where the soluble fiber
is evenly distributed, the pores left after dissolving are smaller than the pores
that result from tufts of wool and/or silk. These pores are desirable in certain applications
where their unique absorbency and wicking properties are desired.
[0149] In step
770, the blended slivers produced through any combination of the forgoing processes undergo
speed frame roving. A person of skill in the art will understand that roving is required
for ring spinning. During roving, slivers are further drafted to reduce the weight
per length and a low amount of twist is inserted.
[0150] In step
775, the roving created in step
770 undergoes ring spinning. Ring spinning is desirable for applications, such as terry
toweling, rugs, bedding, and leisure fabrics, where softness is desired. Further,
yarn spinning produces yarns with desirable elasticity. During ring spinning roving
is fed into the ring spinning machine and bobbins of yarn is output. Generally, the
resulting yarn should have a count of 6 Ne to 120 Ne. Additionally, a new attachment
in the ring spinning system was utilized to eliminate the spinning triangle formed
in a conventional ring system. This attachment provides multiple benefits, including
reducing yarn hairiness and yarn breakage during spinning, and increasing yarn strength
(making lower twist ratios possible) and yarn evenness (lower coefficient of variation).
These yarn benefits also provide greater weaving efficiency (i.e., enables higher
picks per minute and decreases downtime due to broken yarns). Additionally, a finer
yarn count may be obtained by changing the blend ratios. In place of Ring Spinning,
a Rotor Spinning, Friction Spinning, Air Jet Spinning or Compact Spinning may also
be used in the alternate.
[0151] In step
780, after spinning the bobbins of yarn may be combined onto a cone using an autoconer.
Cones are required to convert the bobbins to larger packages suitable for textile
processing.
[0152] In step
785, the yarns may undergo plying. During this step, yarns of the same or different counts
may be plied together. Similarly, yarns with the same fiber and blend content, or
yarns with differing fiber and blend contents may be plied. The number of yarns plied
may be two or more.
[0153] In step
790, the yarns may be wound onto suitable packages. For example, yarns may be wound off
of tapered cones onto cylindrical tubes or other forms of packaging more suitable
for warping and weaving.
[0154] Figure 4B is a flowchart of a fabric manufacturing method that comprises a batch
dyeing process illustrating exemplary method
800 of processing yarns into fabrics.
[0155] In step
805, yarn is received from a supplier or the spinning room.
[0156] In step
810, the yarn may be stored. When stored, the yarns may be conditioned to a certain temperature
or relative humidity to prepare the yarns for weaving. As one of skill in the art
would understand, the desired temperature and humidity would be dependent, in part,
upon the type of fiber and type of processing that will occur.
[0157] In step
815, the yarn undergoes warping. Any known process for warping, including high speed/direct
warping, sectional/indirect warping, and/or ball warping, may be utilized in this
step.
[0158] In step
820, the yarn undergoes sizing. Any known process for sizing, including wet sizing, solvent
sizing, cold sizing, and/or hot melt sizing, may be utilized in this step.
[0159] In step
825, the yarn undergoes weaving. Any known process for weaving, including terry weaving,
may be utilized. For example, in terry weaving, two warp beams are prepared (one for
the ground warp and one for the pile warp). These two warps are fed through the loom
at different speeds to create loops on the pile warp. The weft and ground warp form
a ground weave that supports the pile loops.
[0160] In step
830, the fabric may undergo inspection. Any known process for inspection may be utilized.
For example, terry fabric may be manually inspected by a trained employee using a
light board (sometimes called a light box) or automatically inspected using a camera-based
visual inspection system.
[0161] In step
835, the fabric is treated using a plasma treatment. Effect of plasma treatment: Plasma
treatment is a dry state treatment on to any textile surface before any wet processing.
Essentially, four main effects can be obtained depending on the treatment conditions:
surface cleaning, etching, surface activation, and polymerization. Thus, plasma treatments
find their application in the textile field for a variety of purposes including modification
of surface energy, modification of surface topography, improvement of adhesion, and
surface cleaning. References,
R. Abd. Jelil, A review of low-temperature plasma treatment of textile materials,
50 J. MATER SCI. 5913 (2015);
Sheila Shahidi et al., Study of Surface Modification of Wool Fabrics Using Low Temperature
Plasma, PROC. OF THE 3RD INT'L CONF. ON THE FRONTIERS OF PLASMA PHYSICS AND TECH.
1 (2008);
Amelia Sparavigna, Plasma treatment advantages for textiles. ARXIV: POPULAR PHYSICS.
1-16.; describe the plasma treatment process in detail and are incorporated herein by
reference. In certain embodiments, a plasma treatment is used for surface etching
and the creation of micro cracks on the wool fiber. Thus, absorbency of the wool fiber
will increase, resulting in faster dissolution of wool fiber with various manufacturing
benefits (e.g., reduces the volume of chemicals, water, and power required to treat
the fabric). Hence, plasma treated fabrics are more sustainable. More specifically,
in certain embodiments, plasma treatment occurs at ambient conditions (temperature
and pressure are normal) at a speed of 20 to 40 meters per minute at a power of 16
Kw. A variety of plasma systems may be utilized. For example, atmospheric/air plasma
(dry), or N
2, Argon, or a combination thereof.
[0162] In step
840, during pretreatment, the fabric undergoes a dissolving treatment. During this step,
the fabric may optionally be dyed and finished in rope form. For example, the wool
and/or silk fibers may be dissolved in NaOH, an enzyme, or a combination thereof.
The pretreatment stage comprises desizing, scouring, and/or bleaching, where the soluble
fibers may be dissolved. For example, the wool and/or silk fibers may be dissolved
in NaOH, an enzyme, or a combination thereof. As the fabric undergoes desizing, desizing
agents aid in the removal of added impurities the form of starch and synthetic sizes
without having any effect on the fabric. It is important that these impurities are
removed to ensure better realization of further processing. After desizing, the fabric
then undergoes scouring and bleaching. In this pretreatment process, the fabric may
be loaded into a machine where they are placed in a water bath. The temperature of
the water bath may be increased to 70 °C. When the temperature reaches 70 °C, a wetting
agent (e.g., a commercially available wetting agent 1.25±0.20 g/l) and a desizing
agent (e.g., a commercially available desizing agent 0.40±0.20 g/l) are added. These
chemicals are used to wet and desize the fabric over twenty minutes while the bath
is maintained at 70 °C. After desizing, a peroxide stabilizer (e.g., a commercially
available peroxide stabilizer 0.50±0.20 g/l), caustic soda (5.50 ± 0.50 g/l), and
a lubricant (e.g., a commercially available lubricant 0.50±0.20 g/l) are added and
the bath temperature is increased to 75 °C over the course of five minutes. Once the
bath reaches 75 °C, hydrogen peroxide (4.75 ± 0.50 g/l) is introduced to the bath.
The fabric dwells at 75 °C for approximately ten minutes before the temperature is
increased to 100 °C over the course of five minutes. Once the temperature reaches
100 °C, the bath is maintained at that temperature for 25 minutes. The bath is then
drained and the fabric is subjected to a hot water (90 °C) rinse. After the hot water
rinse, the bath is once again drained. The bath is then refilled with 45 °C water
and a core alkali neutralizer or buffer (e.g., a commercially core alkali neutralizer
or buffer 0.35 ± 0.20 g/l) and an acid to maintain the bath pH (e.g., acetic acid
or Green Acid (1.00 ± 0.20 g/l)) are introduced. The fabric dwells in this bath at
45 °C for 29 minutes before a lubricating agent (e.g., a commercially available lubricating
agent 0.50 ± 0.20 g/l) and a peroxide stabilizer (e.g., a commercially available peroxide
stabilizer 0.50 ± 0.20 g/l) are introduced. The fabric dwells in the modified bath
for an additional five minutes before the bath is drained. For example, the bleaching
process may start out with a loading step where the fabric is placed in a water bath
and the temperature of the bath is increased to 70 °C. When the bath reaches 70 °C,
a wetting agent (e.g., a commercially available wetting agent (1.25 ± 0.20 g/l)) and
a desizing agent (e.g., a commercially available desizing agent (0.20 ± 0.20 g/l))
are added. These chemicals are used to wet and desize the fabric over twenty minutes
while the bath is maintained at 70 °C. After desizing, a peroxide stabilizer (e.g.,
a commercially available peroxide stabilizer (0.50 ± 0.20 g/l)), caustic soda (5.5
± 1.0 g/l), and a lubricant (e.g., a commercially available lubricant (0.50 ± 0.20
g/l)) are added and the bath temperature is increased to 75 °C over the course of
five minutes. Once the bath reaches 75 °C, hydrogen peroxide (4.75 ± 1.00 g/l) is
introduced to the bath. The fabric dwells at 75 °C for approximately ten minutes before
the temperature is increased to 100 °C over the course of five minutes.
[0163] Once the temperature reaches 100 °C, the bath is maintained at that temperature for
25 minutes. The bath is then drained and the fabric is subjected to a hot water (90
°C) rinse. After the hot water rinse, the bath is once again drained. The bath is
then refilled with 45 °C water and a core neutralizer or buffer (e.g., a commercially
available core neutralizer or buffer (0.35 ± 0.20 g/l)) and an acid to maintain the
bath pH (e.g., acetic acid or Green Acid (1.00 ± 0.20 g/l)) are introduced. The fabric
dwells in this bath at 45 °C for 29 minutes before a lubricating agent (e.g., a commercially
available lubricating agent (0.50 ± 0.20 g/l)) and a leveling agent (e.g., a commercially
available leveling agent (0.50 ± 0.20 g/l)) are introduced. The yarn dwells in the
modified bath for an additional five minutes before the bath is drained. The entire
cycle may take 119 minutes.
[0164] Alternatively, where wool fibers are being dissolved, the bleaching process may start
out with a loading step where the fabric is placed in a water bath and the temperature
of the bath is increased to 70 °C. When the bath reaches 70 °C, a wetting agent (e.g.,
a commercially available wetting agent (1.25 ± 0.20 g/l)) and a desizing agent (e.g.,
a commercially available desizing agent (0.20 ± 0.20 g/l)) are added. The wetting
agent and desizing agent are used to desize the yarns over twenty minutes while the
bath is maintained at 70 °C. After desizing, a leveling agent (e.g., a commercially
available leveling agent (0.50 ± 0.20 g/l)), caustic soda (10 ± 2.00 g/l), and a lubricating
agent (e.g., a commercially available lubricating agent (0.50 ± 0.20 g/l)) are added
and the bath temperature is increased to 75 °C over the course of five minutes. Once
the bath reaches 75 °C, hydrogen peroxide (7.50 ± 2.00 g/l) is introduced to the bath.
The fabric dwells at 75 °C for approximately ten minutes before the temperature is
increased to 100 °C over the course of five minutes. Once the temperature reaches
100 °C, the bath is maintained at that temperature for 25 minutes. The bath is then
drained and the fabric is subjected to a hot water (90 °C) rinse. After the hot water
rinse, the bath is once again drained. The bath is then refilled with 45 °C water,
and a core neutralizer (e.g., a commercially available core neutralizer (0.30 ± 0.05
g/l)) and an acid to maintain the bath pH (e.g., acetic acid or Green Acid (1.50 ±
0.20 g/l)) are introduced. The fabric dwells in this bath at 45 °C for 29 minutes
before a lubricating agent (e.g., a commercially available lubricating agent (0.50
± 0.20 g/l)) and leveling agent (e.g., a commercially available leveling agent (0.50
± 0.20 g/l)) are introduced. The fabric dwells in the modified bath for an additional
five minutes before the bath is drained. The entire cycle may take 119 minutes.
[0165] In step
845, if terry toweling or similar fabric is being manufactured, the washed "rope" of
fabric is opened.
- 1. In step 850, the fabric is optionally finished and dried using a stenter. During this step the
fabric is pulled taught in the weft direction and subjected to finishing treatments.
This step ensures that the yarns are properly oriented prior to cutting and sewing.
- 2. In step 855, the finished fabric undergoes a second inspection.
- 3. In step 860, the fabric is cut apart.
In step optional
865, if the resulting textile is intended for use as a terry towel or similar product,
then length hemming occurs to finish the raw edges of the towel. After length hemming,
partially finished towel may undergo cross-cutting
870 and cross hemming
875.
4. In optional step 880, where the resulting textile article is not a terry towel, the fabric may be stitched
or sewn in the manner required.
5. In step 885, the resulting article is subjected to a final inspection.
6. In step 890, the textiles are packed into bags.
7. In step 895, the bagged textiles are carton packaged.
[0166] Also disclosed herein are the following clauses:
- 1. A method of creating a sustainable engineered fabric comprising:
- a. creating an engineered yarn with primary and soluble fibers;
- b. dissolving the soluble fibers during yarn dyeing with a process involving a wetting
agent, hydrogen peroxide, alkali and/ or enzyme or combination thereof, peroxide stabilizer,
lubricant, core alkali neutralizer/buffer, a leveling agent and dye; and
- c. weaving the engineered yarn into fabric.
- 2. The method of clause 1, wherein the primary fibers comprise one or more of cotton,
linen, hemp, kapok, nettle, bamboo, lyocell, viscose, polyester (sustainable or recycled),
PLA, PBT, nylon, acrylic, etc., and suitable combinations thereof.
- 3. The method of clause 1, wherein the soluble fibers comprise one or more of: wool,
or silk, or a combination thereof.
- 4. The method of clause 1, wherein the primary fibers comprise cotton.
- 5. The method of clause 1, wherein the soluble fibers comprise recycled wool, virgin
wool, or a combination thereof.
- 6. The method of clause 1, wherein the soluble fibers comprise recycled silk, virgin
silk, or a combination thereof.
- 7. The method of clause 1, wherein the primary fibers comprise cotton and the soluble
fibers comprise virgin or recycled wool or combination thereof.
- 8. The method of clause 1, wherein the primary fibers comprise cotton and the soluble
fibers comprise virgin or recycled silk or combination thereof.
- 9. The method of clause 1, wherein the primary fiber is cotton, and the soluble fiber
is virgin wool or virgin silk or recycled wool or recycled silk or combination thereof.
- 10. The method of clause 1, wherein the soluble fibers are dissolved during yarn dyeing
process.
- 11. The method of clause 1, wherein the wetting agent is an-ionic or non-ionic wetting
agent.
- 12. The method of clause 1, wherein the desizing agent is a group of enzymes.
- 13. The method of clause 1, wherein the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer is anionic in
nature.
- 14. The method of clause 1, wherein the lubricant is cryptanionic in nature.
- 15. The method of clause 1, wherein the core alkali neutralizer/buffer is anionic
in nature.
- 16. The method of clause 1, wherein the leveling agent is anionic in nature.
- 17. A method of creating an engineered fabric comprising:
- a. creating a yarn with primary and soluble fibers wherein the soluble fibers are
comprised of wool and/or silk fibers;
- b. weaving the yarn into a fabric; and
- c. dissolving the soluble fibers using a process involving a wetting agent, desizing
agent, hydrogen peroxide, alkali and/ or enzyme or combination thereof, peroxide stabilizer,
lubricant, core alkali neutralizer/buffer, and a leveling agent.
- 18. An engineered fabric created using a method as described in clause 17, wherein
the primary fiber includes cotton, linen, hemp, kapok, nettle, bamboo, lyocell, viscose,
polyester (sustainable or recycled), PLA, PBT, nylon, acrylic, etc., and suitable
combinations thereof.
- 19. An engineered fabric as created using a method as described in clause 17, wherein
the primary fiber is cotton, and the soluble fiber is virgin or recycled wool or combination
thereof.
- 20. An engineered fabric as created using a method as described in clause 17, wherein
the primary fiber is cotton, and the soluble fiber is virgin or recycled silk or combination
thereof.
- 21. An engineered fabric as created using a method as described in clause 17, wherein
the primary fiber is cotton, and the soluble fiber is virgin wool or virgin silk or
recycled wool or recycled silk or combination thereof.
- 22. An engineered fabric as created using a method as described in clause 17, wherein
the fabric may undergo plasma treatment.
- 23. The method of clause 17, wherein the wetting agent is an-ionic or non-ionic wetting
agent.
- 24. The method of clause 17, wherein the desizing agent is a group of enzymes.
- 25. The method of clause 17, wherein the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer is anionic in
nature.
- 26. The method of clause 17, wherein the lubricant is cryptanionic in nature.
- 27. The method of clause 17, wherein the core alkali neutralizer/buffer is anionic
in nature.
- 28. The method of clause 17, wherein the leveling agent is anionic in nature.
- 29. The method of clause 17, wherein after the soluble fibers are dissolved during
yarn dyeing process.