TECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention relates to a crimped yarn, a false twisted yarn and a fabric
including side-by-side or eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide fibers.
BACKGROUND ART
[0002] In the related art, a polyamide fiber is softer and has a better tactile than a polyester
fiber, and is widely used in clothing applications. A single fiber made of one kind
of polymer, such as nylon 6 or nylon 66, which is a representative of polyamide fibers
for clothing, has little stretchability in itself, and by false twisting or the like,
the single fiber is imparted with the stretchability, and is used for a stretchable
woven or knitted fabric. However, it has been difficult to obtain a woven or knitted
fabric having sufficiently satisfactory stretchability from such a single fiber subjected
to processing such as false twisting.
[0003] Therefore, there is a method of obtaining a stretchable woven or knitted fabric by
using elastic fibers, or a method of obtaining a stretchable woven or knitted fabric
by combining two kinds of polymers having different properties to form a conjugate
fiber having a latent crimping property in which crimps are exhibited by a heat treatment
such as a dyeing process.
[0004] Further, as a conjugate polyamide fiber having a latent crimping property, a conjugate
fiber in which two kinds of polyamides having a difference in viscosity are arranged
in a side-by-side or eccentric sheath-core has also been proposed (see Patent Literatures
1, 2, and 3).
[0005] For example, Patent Literature 1 discloses a false twisted yarn of a side-by-side
conjugate yarn including a resin composition constituted by polymetaxylene adipamide
and polyamide 6 as one component. Further, Patent Literature 2 discloses a latently
crimped polyamide yarn in which two kinds of polyamides having a difference in viscosity,
which are made of nylon 6/66 copolymer as a high viscosity polymer and nylon 6 as
a low viscosity polymer, are laminated in side-by-side. Furthermore, Patent Literature
3 discloses a side-by-side or eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide fiber for
false twisting that includes nylon 610 or nylon 612, which is low water absorptive
polyamide, as one component.
CITATION LIST
PATENT LITERATURE
SUMMARY OF INVENTION
TECHNICAL PROBLEM
[0007] However, in the conjugate fibers obtained by bonding two kinds of polymers having
different characteristics described in Patent Literatures 1 and 2, slight variation
in viscosity of each polymer changes a stress applied to each polymer during a spinning
and drawing process, and thus variation occurs in orientation and crystallinity of
each fiber in a longitudinal direction, a crimped yarn or a false twisted yarn obtained
from the conjugate fibers has large variation in a shrinkage rate, and there is a
problem that a dyeing speck, a crimped spot, and the like occur. Further, even if
a raw yarn or a processed yarn is excellent in crimpability, in a wet-heat process
of scouring and dyeing of the woven or knitted fabric, wrinkles peculiar to the polyamide
fibers are likely to occur, and the generated wrinkles are difficult to remove, and
thus it is necessary to apply tension to the woven or knitted fabric during the wet-heat
process. As described above, in the conjugate polyamide fibers described in Patent
Literatures 1 and 2, since the tension is applied to the woven or knitted fabric in
the wet-heat process, there is a problem that crimps of the raw yarn or the processed
yarn cannot be sufficiently exhibited, resulting in the woven or knitted fabric having
poor stretchability.
[0008] Patent Literature 3 discloses that, in order to solve the problem of occurrence of
the wrinkles in the polyamide conjugate fiber, by using the side-by-side or eccentric
sheath-core conjugate polyamide fiber that includes nylon 610 or nylon 612, which
is the low water absorptive polyamide, as one component, the wrinkles are less likely
to occur in the wet-heat process such as dyeing during woven or knitted fabric production,
and sufficient stretchability can be provided. However, as in Patent Literatures 1
and 2, slight variation in viscosity causes variation in orientation and crystallinity
of the fiber, and there are problems such as variation in shrinkage rate, dyeing specks,
and crimped spot in the crimped yarn and the false twisted yarn.
[0009] Therefore, an object of the present invention is to solve the above problems, and
to provide a crimped polyamide yarn which reduces variation in shrinkage rate and
has good quality with less grains and wrinkles due to a dyeing speck and a crimped
spot.
SOLUTION TO PROBLEM
[0010] In order to achieve the above object, a crimped polyamide yarn and a false twisted
yarn according to the present invention have the following configurations.
- (1) A crimped polyamide yarn including:
a side-by-side conjugate polyamide fiber or eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide
fiber, in which
the crimped polyamide yarn has a wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate of 150%
or less.
- (2) The crimped polyamide yarn according to (1), in which
two kinds of polyamides having different shrinkage characteristics are laminated in
a side-by-side or an eccentric sheath-core.
- (3) The crimped polyamide yarn according to (1) or (2), having a wet-heat-shrinkage
stress of 0.001 cN/dtex to 0.50 cN/dtex.
- (4) The crimped polyamide yarn according to any one of (1) to (3), having a stretch
elongation rate of 15% to 100%.
- (5) A false twisted yarn including:
the crimped polyamide yarn according to any one of (1) to (4).
- (6) The false twisted yarn according to (5), having a wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation
rate of 150% or less.
- (7) The false twisted yarn according to (5), having a stretch elongation rate of 70%
to 300%.
- (8) A fabric including:
the false twisted yarn according to (7).
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
[0011] According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a stretchable polyamide
woven or knitted fabric which reduces variation in shrinkage rate, which is a problem
of a crimped polyamide yarn and a false twisted yarn, and has good quality with less
grains and wrinkles due to a dyeing speck and a crimped spot.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DRAWINGS
[0012]
[FIG. 1] FIG. 1 includes diagrams illustrating a form of a conjugate fiber, (a) of
FIG. 1 shows cross-sectional views illustrating embodiments of side-by-side conjugate
fibers and an eccentric sheath-core conjugate fiber, and (b) of FIG. 1 is a view illustrating
an eccentric arrangement in the eccentric sheath-core conjugate fiber.
[FIG. 2] FIG. 2 is a schematic process diagram showing an embodiment of a production
apparatus preferably used as a method for producing a crimped polyamide yarn according
to the present invention.
DESCRIPTION OF EMBODIMENTS
[0013] Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
[0014] In this specification, "mass" is synonymous with "weight".
[0015] A crimped polyamide yarn according to the present invention includes a side-by-side
or eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide fiber and has a wet-heat-shrinkage stress
variation rate of 150% or less.
<Two Kinds of Polyamides (PA) Having Different Shrinkage Characteristics>
[0016] A side-by-side or eccentric sheath-core structure of the conjugate polyamide fiber
forming the crimped polyamide yarn according to the present invention is preferably
formed by two kinds of polyamides having different shrinkage characteristics. That
is, the conjugate polyamide fiber is formed by selecting a crystalline polyamide (A)
and a crystalline polyamide (B) as two polyamides having different shrinkage characteristics.
In the case where both components are constituted by polyamides, an affinity of a
conjugate interface is high, interfacial peeling can be prevented, a cross-sectional
variation and a cross-sectional shape defect are reduced, and oiling and interlacing
can be uniformly applied, and thus it is possible to obtain a crimped polyamide yarn
with little variation in oil content and interlacement.
[0017] Examples of the polyamide include nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 11, nylon 12,
nylon 410, nylon 510, nylon 610, nylon 612, and a copolymer containing these as main
components.
[0018] The shrinkage characteristics of the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline
polyamide (B) are not particularly limited as long as effects of the present invention
are not impaired, and it is preferable that a difference in boiling-water-shrinkage
rate is 5.0% or more in the case where each polymer is spun as a single yarn. A practical
upper limit of the difference in boiling-water-shrinkage rate is 40%.
[0019] The boiling-water-shrinkage rate is calculated from the following formula by taking
a single yarn of 33 dtex and 12 filaments of the polymer in skein and applying a load
of 90 mg/dtex for 30 seconds to determine a length B, immersing the single yarn in
boiling water at 100°C for 20 minutes, air-drying the single yarn, and applying a
load of 90 mg/dtex for 30 seconds to obtain a length A.

<Crystalline Polyamide (A)>
[0020] The crystalline polyamide (A) is a polyamide different from the crystalline polyamide
(B) among the polyamides shown above. Examples of the crystalline polyamide (A) preferably
include nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 610, nylon 11, nylon 12, or the like, and
a copolymer containing these as main components.
[0021] The crystalline polyamide (A) can contain a component other than a lactam, an aminocarboxylic
acid, a diamine, and a dicarboxylic acid in a repeated structure as long as the effects
of the present invention are not impaired.
[0022] Further, from the viewpoint of a yarn producing property, strength, and an anti-peeling
property, the crystalline polyamide (A) is preferably a polymer in which 90 mol% or
more of the repeated structure is a single lactam, the aminocarboxylic acid, or a
combination of the diamine and the dicarboxylic acid, and more preferably a polymer
in which 95 mol% or more of the repeated structure is the single lactam, the aminocarboxylic
acid, or the combination of the diamine and the dicarboxylic acid.
<Crystalline Polyamide (B)>
[0023] The crystalline polyamide (B) may be any polymer as long as the polymer has a shrinkage
characteristic different from that of the crystalline polyamide (A). Examples of the
crystalline polyamide (B) include the polyamides shown above. The crystalline polyamide
(B) is preferably nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 4, nylon 610, nylon 11, nylon 12, or the
like, and a copolymer containing these as main components, and among these, a polymer
in which 90 mol% or more of a repeated structure is a single lactam, an aminocarboxylic
acid, or a combination of a diamine and a dicarboxylic acid is preferred, and a polymer
in which 95 mol% or more of the repeated structure is the single lactam, the aminocarboxylic
acid or the combination of the diamine and the dicarboxylic acid is more preferable.
<Combination of Polyamides>
[0024] A combination of the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B)
in the conjugate polyamide fiber is preferably nylon 610 or nylon 612 and nylon 6.
By adopting such a configuration, it is possible to form a fabric which exhibits an
excellent crimping property and has an excellent texture, durability, and soft stretchability.
<Additives>
[0025] If necessary, a pigment, a heat stabilizer, an antioxidant, a weathering agent, a
flame retardant, a plasticizer, a mold releasing agent, a lubricant, a foaming agent,
an antistatic agent, a moldability improver, a reinforcing agent, and the like can
be added to and blended with the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide
(B).
<Conjugate Type>
[0026] The conjugate polyamide fiber forming the crimped polyamide yarn according to the
present invention has a conjugate cross section formed by joining two kinds of crystalline
polyamides having different shrinkage characteristics. The two kinds of crystalline
polyamides are preferably present in an attached state without being substantially
separated. Examples of a form of the conjugate cross section include a side-by-side
type (reference numerals 10a to 10c) and an eccentric sheath-core type (reference
numeral 10d) as shown in (a) of FIG. 1. In the eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide
fiber 10d, the crystalline polyamide (A) (symbol A) as a core component is covered
with the crystalline polyamide (B) (symbol B) as a sheath component. In the eccentric
sheath-core conjugate polyamide fiber 10d shown in (a) of FIG. 1, although a configuration
in which the crystalline polyamide (A) constitutes a core portion is shown, the core
portion may be constituted by the crystalline polyamide (B) as long as the eccentric
sheath-core conjugate polyamide fiber 10d is constituted by two components having
different shrinkage characteristics. Specifically, a configuration in which a polyamide
on a low shrinkage side is positioned in the core portion and a high shrinkage polyamide
having a higher shrinkage characteristic than the low shrinkage polyamide is a sheath
portion may be adopted, or a reverse configuration may be adopted.
[0027] An interface between the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide
(B) in the cross section of the conjugate polyamide fiber may be flat or smooth. Further,
the interface of attachment may be straight or curved. In the case where a conjugate
form of the conjugate polyamide fiber is the side-by-side type or the eccentric sheath-core
type, the crimps are exhibited due to a difference in shrinkage between the two components.
[0028] A conjugate ratio of the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide
(B) is preferably such that an area ratio of the crystalline polyamide (A) to the
crystalline polyamide (B) in the fiber cross section perpendicular to a longitudinal
direction of the fiber is 2:1 to 1:2.
[0029] In the eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide fiber, as shown in (b) of FIG. 1,
it is more preferable that a ratio L/M of a distance L between a center 11 of the
eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide fiber 10d and a center 12 of the crystalline
polyamide (A) that is the core portion to a length M between intersections of a straight
line extending the distance L and an outer circumference of the yarn is 1/8 to 1/2.
A center of the core portion refers to a position of a center of gravity of the core
portion in the fiber cross section.
<Wet-Heat-Shrinkage Stress Variation Rate/Crimped Yarn/False Twisted Yarn>
[0030] The crimped polyamide yarn according to the present invention has the wet-heat-shrinkage
stress variation rate of 150% or less.
[0031] In the case where the wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate is 150% or less, variation
in shrinkage rate of a yarn under wet-heat condition such as a scouring process or
a dyeing process is prevented, and dyeing specks and crimped spot during these processes
can be reduced. As a result, a woven or knitted fabric having good quality and excellent
stretchability can be obtained.
[0032] On the other hand, in the case where the wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate
is more than 150%, the dyeing specks and the crimped spots are likely to occur in
the scouring process and the dyeing process, the quality becomes inferior, and stretchability
of a woven fabric is also reduced.
[0033] The wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate is preferably 120% or less. Further,
a practical lower limit of the wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate is 50%.
[0034] It is preferable that the false twisted yarn constituted by the crimped polyamide
yarn according to the present invention has a wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation
rate of 150% or less. The wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate of the false twisted
yarn is more preferably 120% or less, and a practical lower limit of the wet-heat-shrinkage
stress variation rate is 0.5%. In the case where the wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation
rate of the false twisted yarn is in the above range, variation in shrinkage rate
of the false twisted yarn under the wet-heat conditions is prevented, and thus it
is possible to reduce the dyeing specks and the crimped spots in a processing step.
[0035] The wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate referred to herein is variation (CV%)
when a shrinkage stress generated when a heat treatment is performed while moving
the fiber under the wet-heat conditions is continuously measured in a fiber axial
direction using a continuous heat shrinkage measuring device "FTA-500" manufactured
by Toray Engineering Co., Ltd. In "FTA-500", the yarn moves between a yarn feeding
roller and a yarn withdrawal roller, and is subjected to a wet-heat treatment in a
heated water tank between these rollers, and the shrinkage stress is continuously
measured with a tension measuring device provided behind the yarn.
[0036] A frequency of measurement of the shrinkage stress per yarn is 6 times per 1 cm,
an average value of the 6 measurements is taken as one data, 1000 or more data are
collected, and from the obtained 1000 data, an average value f
ave and a standard deviation of are calculated, and thus the wet-heat-shrinkage stress
variation rate is calculated according to the following formula.

[0037] Measurement conditions are as follows: the yarn to be measured is 25 m, a speed ratio
between a delivery roller and a take-off roller is set to 99/100, a preset temperature
of the heated water tank is set to 100°C, and a yarn speed is set to 5 m/min.
<Wet-Heat-Shrinkage Stress>
[0038] The average value f
ave of the shrinkage stress obtained by the measurement of the continuous heat shrinkage
measuring device "FTA-500" is measured according to JIS L1013 (2010) and divided by
total fineness to obtain the wet-heat-shrinkage stress.
[0039] The crimped polyamide yarn according to the present invention preferably has the
wet-heat-shrinkage stress of 0.001 cN/dtex to 0.50 cN/dtex. In such a range, it is
possible to exhibit a sufficient coil crimp even in a fabric in which the yarn is
constrained, so that a woven or knitted fabric having excellent stretchability can
be obtained.
[0040] The wet-heat-shrinkage stress is more preferably 0.002 cN/dtex to 0.40 cN/dtex.
<Total Fineness and Single Yarn Fineness>
[0041] A total fineness of the crimped polyamide yarn is preferably 20 dtex to 200 dtex
in consideration of clothing applications. Further, the single yarn fineness is not
limited as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, and is preferably
1.0 dtex to 6.0 dtex when used for sports wear, down jackets, outer, and inner applications.
<Elongation>
[0042] An elongation of the crimped polyamide yarn is preferably 50% to 80%. In such a range,
an actual number of twists to be performed in a false twisting process becomes appropriate,
a uniform crimp is imparted to the obtained processed yarn, and a processed yarn is
obtained in which a temporal change of the crimp and a decrease in the crimp due to
repeated tension are small.
<Stretch Elongation Rate >
[0043] A stretch elongation rate of the crimped polyamide yarn according to the present
invention is preferably 15% or more. Within this range, the sufficient coil crimp
is exhibited, and the woven fabric having good soft stretchability can be obtained.
[0044] A practical upper limit of the stretch elongation rate is 100%. The stretch elongation
rate of the crimped polyamide yarn is more preferably 16% or more, and further preferably
17% or more.
[0045] The stretch elongation rate of the false twisted yarn according to the present invention
is preferably 70% or more. Within this range, the sufficient coil crimp is exhibited,
and the woven fabric having good soft stretchability can be obtained.
[0046] A practical upper limit of the stretch elongation rate is 300%. The stretch elongation
rate of the false twisted yarn is more preferably 75% or more, and further preferably
80% or more.
[0047] The stretch elongation rate is calculated by the following formula by preparing a
loop having a circumference of 1 m using the yarn, immersing the loop in boiling water
at a temperature of 90°C for 20 minutes, air-drying the loop, applying a load of 1.8
mg/dtex for 30 seconds to determine a length A, and applying a load of 90 mg/dtex
for 30 seconds to determine a length B.

<Producing Method>
[0048] A method for producing the crimped polyamide yarn according to the present invention
will be described.
[0049] In the method for producing the crimped polyamide yarn according to the present invention,
it is preferable that the polyamide on the low shrinkage side is prevented from an
increase in viscosity during melt retention. It is known that a polymerization reaction
of the polyamides proceeds due to the retention during melt spinning, resulting in
the increase in viscosity. Therefore, by adjusting a chip moisture content of the
polyamide on the low shrinkage side and controlling a polymerization equilibrium reaction,
it is possible to prevent the increase in viscosity due to the retention during the
melt spinning.
[0050] The polyamide on the low shrinkage side preferably satisfies ηs - η0 ≤ 50 poises,
in which η0 represents a melt viscosity immediately after melting in the melt spinning,
and ηs is a melt viscosity immediately before a yarn is discharged from a spinneret.
In the case where ηs - η0 is 50 poises or less, the increase in viscosity of the low
shrinkage polyamide is prevented, a stress during the spinning and drawing is appropriately
applied to the high shrinkage polyamide, and a difference in orientation occurs, resulting
in desirable latent crimps. ηs - η0 is more preferably -150 poises ≤ ηs - η0 ≤ 50
poises. In the case where ηs-η0 is set to -150 poises or more, variation in melt viscosity
of the polymer in a spinning pipe is prevented, a fiber structure of the conjugate
fiber can be stabilized, variation in shrinkage rate of the crimped yarn or the false
twisted yarn under the wet-heat conditions such as a scouring process or a dyeing
process is prevented, and dyeing specks or crimped spots during these processes are
reduced.
[0051] In the case where nylon 610 having a sulfuric acid relative viscosity of 2.7 is used
as the low shrinkage polyamide, a chip moisture content is preferably 600 ppm to 1800
ppm. In the case where a moisture content of the polyamide is 1800 ppm or less, a
hydrolysis of the polyamide is prevented when the polyamide retains in a weld fusion
zone, the pipe, and the spinneret, and an extreme decrease in viscosity does not occur,
and thus variation in melt viscosity is stabilized. Further, yarn bending during discharge
from the spinneret is prevented, and stable operation becomes possible.
[0052] The sulfuric acid relative viscosity is determined by dissolving 0.25 g of polyamide
in 25 ml of sulfuric acid having a concentration of 98% by mass so as to form 1 g/100
ml, measuring a flow-down time (T1) at a temperature of 25°C using an Ostwald viscometer,
and calculating a ratio T1/T2 of T1 to a flow-down time (T2) of only sulfuric acid
having a concentration of 98% by mass.
[0053] A difference in sulfuric acid relative viscosity between the crystalline polyamide
(A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) is not limited as long as the effects of the
present invention are not impaired, and is preferably in the range of 0.5 to 1.0.
In the case where the difference in sulfuric acid relative viscosity is 0.5 or more,
a difference in stress applied to each polyamide at the time of producing the yarn
easily occurs, the difference in orientation occurs, and a high latent crimping property
is obtained. Further, in the case where the difference in sulfuric acid relative viscosity
is 1.0 or less, the yarn bending due to the difference in viscosity at the time of
producing the yarn is prevented, and it is possible to stably produce the yarn.
[0054] A difference in melt viscosity between the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline
polyamide (B) is preferably 1000 poises or less. In the case where the difference
in melt viscosity is 1000 poises or less, the yarn bending at the time of discharging
the yarn from the spinneret is prevented, and it is possible to stably produce the
yarn, which is preferable. The difference in melt viscosity is more preferably 600
poises to 1000 poises. In the case where the difference in melt viscosity is 600 poises
or more, the difference in stress applied to each polyamide during the spinning is
likely to occur, the difference in orientation occurs, and a conjugate polyamide fiber
excellent in the latent crimping property is likely to be obtained.
[0055] The conjugate polyamide fiber forming the crimped polyamide yarn according to the
present invention has a conjugate cross section in which two kinds of crystalline
polyamides are joined together. In the side-by-side conjugate polyamide fiber, in
the case where the difference between the melt viscosities of the two kinds of polyamides
is large, due to difference in polymer flow resistance at the time of discharging
the yarn from the spinneret and a difference in flow speed, the yarn bending tends
to occur and the stability of yarn production tends to deteriorate. Therefore, in
the production of the conjugate polyamide fiber using the crystalline polyamide (A)
and the crystalline polyamide (B) having the difference in melt viscosity, the eccentric
sheath-core type is preferably adopted from the viewpoint of yarn producing stability.
[0056] Next, a producing method by high-speed direct spinning will be described.
[0057] The crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) are separately melted,
weighed and transported using a gear pump, a conjugate flow is formed so as to form
a side-by-side shape or an eccentric sheath-core shape by an ordinary method as it
is, and the conjugate flow is discharged from the spinneret so as to form a cross
section illustrated in (a) of FIG. 1 using the spinneret for the side-by-side or eccentric
sheath-core conjugate fiber. The yarn of the discharged conjugate polyamide fiber
is cooled to 30°C by blowing cooling air by a yarn cooling device such as a chimney.
Subsequently, the cooled yarn is supplied with oil by an oil feeder, converged, interlaced
through an interlacing device, is taken off (spinning speed) at 2000 m/min to 4500
m/min by a take-off roller, passes through the take-off roller and a drawing roller,
and is drawn at a draw ratio of 1.0 to 1.5 according to a ratio of the peripheral
speeds of the take-off roller and the drawing roller. Further, the yarn is wound around
a package at a winding speed of 3000 m/min or more.
[0058] The spinning speed is preferably 2000 m/min to 3500 m/min. By setting the spinning
speed to 2000 m/min or more, a spinning draft up to the take-off roller is large,
and the difference in stress applied to each polyamide is likely to occur, the difference
in orientation occurs, and the conjugate polyamide fiber (crimped polyamide yarn)
excellent in the latent crimping property can be obtained. By setting the spinning
speed to 3500 m/min or less, the yarn bending at the time of discharging the yarn
from the spinneret is prevented, and a yarn producing property is stabilized.
[0059] The false twisted yarn according to the present invention can be obtained by a known
false twisting method in the related art. Preferably, the false twisting is performed
by a drawing friction false twisting device. An example is as follows. For example,
the crimped polyamide yarn according to the present invention supplied to the drawing
friction false twisting device is fed to a supply roller via a desired yarn guide
or a fluid treatment device. Thereafter, the crimped polyamide yarn is guided to the
drawing roller through a heated false twisting heater, a cooling plate, and a twisting
body that performs drawing friction false twisting, and wound as the false twisted
yarn. In the drawing friction false twisting, friction false twisting may be performed
after drawing the crimped polyamide yarn with a heat pin or a hot plate before the
crimped polyamide yarn is supplied to the supply roller of the drawing friction false
twisting device, or the friction false twisting may be performed while the crimped
polyamide yarn is drawn between the supply roller and the drawing roller.
[0060] A twisting method is not limited to a spindle method, a triaxial twister method,
a belt nip method, or the like. It is preferable to use the spindle method in the
case where crimping is to be strengthened, and to use the triaxial twister or the
belt nip, which is a friction false twisting method, in the case where it is desired
to increase a processing speed and reduce a production cost.
[0061] The crimped polyamide yarn and the false twisted yarn according to the present invention
can be woven and knitted by known methods. The obtained woven fabric and knitted fabric
have excellent stretchability.
[0062] In the case of the woven fabric, a texture thereof may be a plain weave texture,
a twill weave texture, a satin weave texture, a variation texture thereof, or a mixed
weave texture depending on a used application.
[0063] In the case of the knitted fabric, a texture may be a jersey weave texture of a circular
knitting fabric, an interlock weave texture, a half stitch of a warp knitted fabric,
a satin weave texture, a jacquard weave texture, a variation texture thereof, or a
mixed texture depending on a used application.
[0064] A use of the woven or knitted fabric made from the crimped polyamide yarn and the
false twisted yarn according to the present invention are not limited, but is preferably
used for clothing applications, and more preferably for sports, casual wear, and clothing
of women and men such as down jackets, windbreakers, golf wear, and rain wear. In
particular, the present invention can be suitably used for the sports wear and the
down jackets.
EXAMPLES
[0065] Next, the conjugate polyamide fiber according to the present invention will be specifically
described with reference to Examples.
A. Melting Point:
[0066] A polyamide chip sample was subjected to a thermal analysis using Q1000 manufactured
by TA Instruments, and data processing was performed using Universal Analysis 2000.
The thermal analysis was carried out under a nitrogen flow (50 mL/min) at a temperature
range of -50°C to 300°C, a temperature rising speed of 10°C/min, and a chip sample
mass of about 5 g (heat quantity data was normalized by mass after measurement). A
melting point was measured from a melt peak.
B. Relative Viscosity:
[0067] 0.25 g of the polyamide chip sample was dissolved in 25 ml of sulfuric acid having
a concentration of 98% by mass so as to form 1 g/100 ml, and the flow-down time (T1)
at a temperature of 25°C was measured using the Ostwald viscometer. Subsequently,
the flow-down time (T2) of only sulfuric acid having a concentration of 98% by mass
was measured. The ratio of T1 to T2, that is, T1/T2, was defined as the sulfuric acid
relative viscosity.
C. Melt Viscosity (Capilograph):
[0068] Polyamide chip samples were adjusted to a predetermined moisture content as shown
in Tables 1 to 3, and melt viscosities were measured by gradually changing a strain
rate using Capilograph 1B manufactured by Toyo Seiki Seisaku-sho, Ltd. A measurement
temperature was the same as a spinning temperature, and was measured at three points
at which a time (holding time) from a time the sample was put into a heating furnace
until a start of the measurement was 5 minutes, 10 minutes, and 20 minutes. In Examples
and Comparative Examples, a melt viscosity of 1216 s
-1 was described when the holding time was set to 5 minutes. Further, a value (maximum
value - minimum value) obtained by subtracting a minimum value from a maximum value
of the melt viscosity of 1216 s
-1 in each holding time was defined as a melt viscosity variation width.
D. Chip Moisture Content:
[0069] For the polyamide chip sample, coulometric titration method of a Karl Fischer reaction
was used using a moisture measuring device, that is, a trace moisture meter CA-200
(manufactured by Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation), an electrolytic solution containing
mainly iodide ions, sulfur dioxide, and alcohol is placed in a titration cell, iodine
required for titration is generated internally by electrolysis, and an amount of electricity
required for electrolytic oxidation was integrated to calculate the moisture content.
E. Boiling-Water-Shrinkage Rate of Single Yarn:
[0070] Each polymer described in Examples was used as a raw material, and was melt-discharged
at a temperature of 280°C using a spinneret having 12 spinneret discharge holes. After
the obtained yarn was cooled, supplied with the oil and interlaced, the obtained yarn
was taken off with the take-off roller at 2570 m/min, drawn 1.7 times, and then heat-set
at a temperature of 155°C to obtain a single polyamide yarn of 33 dtex and 12 filaments
at a winding speed of 4000 m/min. The obtained fiber sample was taken in skein and
subjected to a load of 90 mg/dtex for 30 seconds to determine the length B. Then,
the fiber sample was immersed in boiling water at 100°C for 20 minutes, air-dried,
and subjected to a load of 90 mg/dtex for 30 seconds to determine the length A. A
boiling-water-shrinkage rate was calculated based on the following formula.

F. Total Fineness:
[0071] The test was based on JIS L1013 (2010). The fiber sample was wound 200 times with
tension of 1/30 (g) using a measuring machine including a frame circumference of 1.125
m. The fiber sample was dried at a temperature of 105°C for 60 minutes, transferred
to a desiccator, and was cooled for 30 minutes in an environment having a temperature
of 20°C and a relative humidity of 55% RH, and a mass per 10000 m was calculated from
a value obtained by measuring a mass of the skein, and a total fineness of the fiber
yarn was calculated with an official moisture regain of 4.5%. The measurement was
performed five times, and an average value thereof was defined as the total fineness.
G. Wet-Heat-Shrinkage Stress and Wet-Heat-Shrinkage Stress Variation Rate:
[0072] A heat shrinkage stress measuring device (manufactured by Toray Engineering Co.,
Ltd., model "FTA-500") is used, the fiber yarn to be measured was 25 m, a speed ratio
between the delivery roller and the take-off roller was set to 99/100, tension of
1/50 g of yarn fineness (dtex) was applied, and the wet-heat-shrinkage stress and
the wet-heat-shrinkage variation rate were calculated according to the following formulas
from the shrinkage stress obtained by performing measurement under conditions of a
set temperature of the heated water tank of 100°C, a yarn speed of 5 m/min, and the
wet heat.

H. Stretch Elongation Rate:
[0073] A loop having a circumference of 1 m was prepared from the fiber sample, immersed
in boiling water at a temperature of 90°C for 20 minutes, and then air-dried, a load
of 1.8 mg/dtex was applied for 30 seconds to obtain the length A, and then a load
of 90 mg/dtex was applied for 30 seconds to obtain the length B. The stretch elongation
rate was calculated by the following formula.

I. Strength and Elongation:
[0074] The fiber sample was measured using "TENSILON" (registered trademark), UCT-100 manufactured
by ORIENTEC CO., LTD. under a constant-rate elongation conditions shown in JIS L1013
(chemical fiber filament yarn test method, 2010). The elongation was determined from
an elongation at a point showing maximum strength in a tensile strength-elongation
curve. Further, the strength was obtained by dividing the maximum strength by fineness.
The measurement was performed 10 times, and an average value thereof was defined as
the strength and the elongation.
J. Fabric Evaluation:
(a) Production of Weft Yarn
[0075] N6 (relative viscosity: 2.70, melting point: 222°C) was used, and was melt-discharged
at a temperature of 275°C using the spinneret having 12 spinneret discharge holes.
After the N6 was melt-discharged, the obtained yarn was cooled, supplied with the
oil and interlaced, the obtained yarn was taken off with the take-off roller at 2570
m/min, drawn 1.7 times, and then heat-set at a temperature of 155°C to thereby obtain
a nylon 6 yarn of 70 dtex and 12 filaments at a winding speed of 4000m/min.
(b) Production of Fabric
[0076] Plain weave fabrics (warp yarn/processed yarn) were woven using the side-by-side
or eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide false twisted yarn obtained in Examples
1 to 10 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 as the warp (warp density: 90 yarns/2.54 cm),
and the nylon 6 yarn obtained in the above (a) as the weft (weft density: 90 yarns/2.54
cm).
[0077] The obtained woven fabrics were scoured at a temperature of 80°C for 20 minutes,
adjusted to pH 4 using Kayanol Yellow N5G 1% owf and acetic acid, dyed at a temperature
of 100°C for 30 minutes, fixed at a temperature of 80°C for 20 minutes, and finally
heat-treated at a temperature of 170°C for 30 seconds to improve the texture.
(c) Elongation Rate (Stretchability) of Woven Fabric in Warp Direction
[0078] An elongation rate of the woven fabric in a warp direction was measured according
to a fixed loading method (B method, 2010) of woven fabric described in JIS L1096.
The stretchability was evaluated in the following three grades. An evaluation of "A"
indicates sufficient stretchability.
- A: 15% or more
- B: 5% or more and less than 15%
- C: less than 5%
(d) Cloth Quality
[0079] A quality of a lengthwise stripe of each of the woven fabrics was checked by visual
judgment of an experienced inspector, and evaluated according to the following four
grades. Evaluations of "A" and "B" indicate a practical level.
- A: Good
- B: Slightly good (stripes are visible, although the woven fabric is not a defect)
- C: Slightly poor (although there are defects such as dyeing specks and stripes, the
woven fabric can be used as a product by cutting and avoiding the defects, or in limited
colors)
- D: Poor (the woven fabric has defects such as dyeing specks and stripes, and cannot
be used as a product)
[Example 1]
[0080] As the crystalline polyamide (A), nylon 6 (N6) having a relative viscosity of 2.6,
a melting point of 222°C, a boiling-water-shrinkage rate of a single yarn of 13.0%,
and a moisture content of 50 ppm was used, and as the crystalline polyamide (B), nylon
610 (N610) having a relative viscosity of 2.7, a melting point of 225°C, a boiling-water-shrinkage
rate of a single yarn of 7.0%, and a moisture content of 1400 ppm was used. The crystalline
polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) are melted respectively, and were
melt-discharged (at a spinning temperature 270°C) at a conjugate ratio (mass ratio)
of the crystalline polyamide (A) and the crystalline polyamide (B) of 5:5 by using
a spinneret (12 holes and round holes) for the side-by-side conjugate fiber. The yarn
discharged from the spinneret was cooled and solidified by the yarn cooling device,
and as shown in Table 1, after being supplied with a water-containing oil agent containing
a wax component by a two-stage oil feeder, the yarn was interlaced by a fluid interlacing
nozzle device, taken off by the take-off roller (room temperature 25°C) at 3700 m/min,
drawn 1.15 times between the drawing rollers (room temperature 25°C), and then wound
on the package at a winding speed of 4000 m/min.
[0081] A latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn having 63 dtex and 12 filaments,
a stretch elongation rate of 17.4%, and a wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate
of 100% was obtained.
[0082] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was used and subjected
to pin false twisting under conditions of the number of twists (D/Y) of 1.95 with
a draw ratio of 1.25 at a heater temperature of 190°C to thereby obtain a false twisted
yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 140%. A plain weave fabric was woven using
the obtained false twisted yarn as the warp. The obtained woven fabric was excellent
in stretchability and cloth quality. The results are shown in Table 1.
[Example 2]
[0083] In the same manner as in Example 1 except that the crystalline polyamide (B) had
a moisture content of 1100 ppm, was melt-discharged from the spinneret (12 holes,
round holes) for the side-by-side conjugate fiber, and was drawn 1.10 times between
the drawing rollers (at room temperature 25°C), a latently crimped conjugate polyamide
fiber yarn having 63 dtex and 12 filaments, a stretch elongation rate of 18.1%, and
a wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate of 110% was obtained.
[0084] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was subjected to the
pin false twisting in the same method as in Example 1 to thereby obtain a false twisted
yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 145%. A plain weave fabric was woven using
the obtained false twisted yarn as the warp. The obtained woven fabric was excellent
in stretchability and cloth quality. The results are shown in Table 1.
[Example 3 and 4]
[0085] A latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was obtained in the same manner
as in Example 1 except that the moisture content of the crystalline polyamide (B)
was changed as shown in Table 1.
[0086] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was subjected to the
pin false twisting in the same manner as in Example 1, and the obtained false twisted
yarn was used as the warp to weave a plain weave fabric. The obtained woven fabric
was excellent in stretchability. Regarding the cloth quality, Example 3 was good,
and Example 4 was slightly good. The results are shown in Table 1.
[Example 5]
[0087] In the same manner as in Example 1 except that, as shown in Table 2, a spinneret
(12 holes and round holes) for the eccentric sheath-core conjugate fiber was used
for melt-discharging a yarn at a spinning temperature of 290°C, the yarn was supplied
with a water-containing oil agent for the false twisting in a second stage of the
two-stage oil supply, taken off by the take-off roller (at room temperature 25°C)
at 3000 m/min, drawn 1.20 times between the drawing rollers (at room temperature 25°C),
and then wound on the package at a winding speed of 3582 m/min, a latently crimped
conjugate polyamide fiber yarn having 66 dtex and 12 filaments, a stretch elongation
rate of 19.5%, and a wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate of 100% was obtained.
[0088] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was subjected to friction
false twisting to thereby obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation
rate of 165%. A plain weave fabric was woven using the obtained false twisted yarn
as the warp. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability and cloth quality.
The results are shown in Table 2.
[Examples 6 to 8]
[0089] Latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarns were obtained in the same manner
as in Example 5 except that the moisture contents of the crystalline polyamide (B)
were changed as shown in Table 2.
[0090] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarns were subjected to the
friction false twisting in the same manner as in Example 5, and obtained false twisted
yarns were used as the warp to weave plain weave fabrics. The obtained woven fabric
was excellent in stretchability. Regarding the cloth quality, Examples 6 and 7 were
good, and Example 8 was slightly good. The results are shown in Table 2.
[Example 9]
[0091] A latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was obtained in the same manner
as in Example 5 except that a take-off roller speed was set to 2218 m/min, the draw
ratio between the take-off roller and the drawing roller was set to 1.45, and the
yarn was wound on the package at a winding speed of 3200 m/min.
[0092] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarns were subjected to the
friction false twisting in the same manner as in Example 5, and obtained false twisted
yarns were used as the warp to weave plain weave fabrics. The obtained woven fabric
was excellent in stretchability and cloth quality. The results are shown in Table
2.
[Example 10]
[0093] A latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was obtained in the same manner
as in Example 5 except that a polymer of the crystalline polyamide (A) and a polymer
of the crystalline polyamide (B) were replaced with each other.
[0094] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarns were subjected to the
friction false twisting in the same manner as in Example 5, and obtained false twisted
yarns were used as the warp to weave plain weave fabrics. The obtained woven fabric
was excellent in stretchability and cloth quality. The results are shown in Table
2.
[Table 1]
| |
Example 1 |
Example 2 |
Example 3 |
Example 4 |
| Total fineness-the number of filaments |
63-12 |
63-12 |
63-12 |
63-12 |
| Conjugate form |
Side-by-side type |
Side-by-side type |
Side-by-side type |
Side-by-side type |
| Polymer type |
Polyamide A component |
N6(T200) |
N6(T200) |
N6(T200) |
N6(T200) |
| Polyamide B component |
N610 |
N610 |
N610 |
N610 |
| Relative viscosity of polymer |
Polyamide A component |
2.6 |
2.6 |
2.6 |
2.6 |
| Polyamide B component |
2.7 |
2.7 |
2.7 |
2.7 |
| Difference in relative viscosity between polymers |
0.1 |
0.1 |
0.1 |
0.1 |
| Boiling-water-shrinkage rate of single yarn (%) |
Polyamide A component |
13 |
13 |
13 |
13 |
| Polyamide B component |
7 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
| Difference in boiling-water-shrinkage rate between single-yarns (%) |
6 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
| Moisture content of polymer (ppm) |
Polyamide A component |
50 |
50 |
50 |
50 |
| Polyamide B component |
1400 |
1100 |
800 |
1700 |
| Spinning temperature (°C) |
270 |
270 |
270 |
270 |
| Melt viscosity of polymer (poise) |
Polyamide A component |
800 |
800 |
800 |
800 |
| Polyamide B component |
770 |
800 |
850 |
700 |
| Difference in melt viscosity (poise) |
30 |
0 |
-50 |
100 |
| Melt viscosity variation width of low shrinkage component (poise) |
-35 |
-10 |
20 |
-90 |
| Oil supply |
First stage oil supply (Before interlacing) |
Oil agent type |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
| Second stage oil supply (After interlacing) |
Oil agent type |
Water-containing oil agent (containing wax) for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent (containing wax) for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent (containing wax) for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent (containing wax) for false twisting |
| Yarn producing conditions |
Take-off speed (spinning speed) |
m/min |
3700 |
3820 |
3700 |
3700 |
| Draw ratio |
- |
1.15 |
1.10 |
1.15 |
1.15 |
| Raw yarn characteristics |
Fineness |
dtex |
63 |
63 |
63 |
63 |
| Strength |
cN/dtex |
4.1 |
4.0 |
4.0 |
4.2 |
| Elongation |
% |
66.9 |
69.7 |
67.8 |
64.7 |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress |
cN/dtex |
0.011 |
0.010 |
0.006 |
0.014 |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate |
% |
100 |
110 |
88 |
130 |
| Stretch elongation rate |
% |
17.4 |
18.1 |
15.6 |
18.0 |
| Processing evaluation |
False twisting method |
Pin type |
Pin type |
Pin type |
Pin type |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate |
% |
60 |
80 |
65 |
70 |
| Stretch elongation rate |
% |
140 |
145 |
135 |
145 |
| Fabric evaluation |
Stretchability |
- |
A |
A |
A |
A |
| Cloth quality |
- |
A |
A |
A |
B |
[Table 2]
| |
Example 5 |
Example 6 |
Example 7 |
Example 8 |
Example 9 |
Example 10 |
| Total fineness-the number of filaments |
66-12 |
66-12 |
66-12 |
66-12 |
66-12 |
66-12 |
| Conjugate form |
Eccentric sheath-core |
Eccentric sheath-core |
Eccentric sheath-core |
Eccentric sheath-core |
Eccentric sheath-core |
Eccentric sheath-core |
| Polymer type |
Polyamide A component |
N6(T700) |
N6(T700) |
N6(T700) |
N6(T700) |
N6(T700) |
N610 |
| Polyamide B component |
N610 |
N610 |
N610 |
N610 |
N610 |
N6(T700) |
| Relative viscosity of polymer |
Polyamide A component |
3.3 |
3.3 |
3.3 |
3.3 |
3.3 |
2.7 |
| Polyamide B component |
2.7 |
2.7 |
2.7 |
2.7 |
2.7 |
3.3 |
| Difference in relative viscosity between polymers |
0.6 |
0.6 |
0.6 |
0.6 |
0.6 |
0.6 |
| Boiling-water-shrinkage rate of single yarn (%) |
Polyamide A component |
13 |
13 |
13 |
13 |
13 |
7 |
| Polyamide B component |
7 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
13 |
| Difference in boiling-water-shrinkage rate between single-yarns (%) |
6 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
| Moisture content of polymer (ppm) |
Polyamide A component |
50 |
50 |
50 |
50 |
50 |
1400 |
| Polyamide B component |
1400 |
1100 |
800 |
1700 |
1700 |
50 |
| Spinning temperature (°C) |
290 |
290 |
290 |
290 |
290 |
290 |
| Melt viscosity of polymer (poise) |
Polyamide A component |
1400 |
1400 |
1400 |
1400 |
1400 |
570 |
| Polyamide B component |
570 |
620 |
680 |
500 |
570 |
1400 |
| Difference in melt viscosity (poise) |
830 |
780 |
720 |
900 |
830 |
830 |
| Melt viscosity variation width of low shrinkage component (poise) |
-100 |
-55 |
-10 |
-140 |
-100 |
-100 |
| Oil supply |
First stage oil supply (before interlacing) |
Oil agent type |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
| Second stage oil supply (after interlacing) |
Oil agent type |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
| Yarn producing conditions |
Take-off speed (spinning speed) |
m/min |
3000 |
3000 |
3000 |
3000 |
2218 |
3000 |
| Draw ratio |
- |
1.20 |
1.20 |
1.20 |
1.20 |
1.45 |
1.20 |
| Raw yarn characteristic s |
Fineness |
dtex |
66 |
66 |
66 |
66 |
66 |
66 |
| Strength |
cN/dtex |
3.9 |
4.0 |
40 |
3.8 |
4.1 |
4.0 |
| Elongation |
% |
76.5 |
75.3 |
74.4 |
78.5 |
74.2 |
75.8 |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress |
cN/dtex |
0.042 |
0.038 |
0.030 |
0.061 |
0.045 |
0.048 |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate |
% |
100 |
95 |
85 |
120 |
85 |
105 |
| Stretch elongation rate |
% |
19.5 |
19.0 |
18.5 |
20.8 |
18.9 |
18.7 |
| Processing evaluation |
False twisting method |
Friction type |
Friction type |
Friction type |
Friction type |
Friction type |
Friction type |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate |
% |
50 |
55 |
58 |
40 |
35 |
55 |
| Stretch elongation rate |
% |
165 |
160 |
150 |
170 |
160 |
160 |
| Fabric evaluation |
Stretchability |
- |
A |
A |
A |
A |
A |
A |
| Cloth quality |
- |
A |
A |
A |
B |
A |
A |
[Comparative Example 1]
[0095] In the same manner as in Example 1, except that nylon 610 (N610) having a relative
viscosity of 2.7, a melting point of 225°C, and a moisture content of 200 ppm was
used as the crystalline polyamide (B), a latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber
yarn having 63 dtex and 12 filaments, a stretch elongation rate of 15.3%, and a wet-heat-shrinkage
stress variation rate of 210% was obtained.
[0096] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was subjected to the
pin false twisting in the same method as in Example 1 to thereby obtain a false twisted
yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 130%. A plain weave fabric was woven using
the obtained false twisted yarn as the warp. The obtained woven fabric was excellent
in stretchability, but was poor in cloth quality. The results are shown in Table 3.
[Comparative Example 2]
[0097] In the same manner as in Example 1 except that the moisture content of the crystalline
polyamide (B) was changed to 2000 ppm, a latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber
yarn having 63 dtex and 12 filaments, a stretch elongation rate of 17.1%, and a wet-heat-shrinkage
stress variation rate of 180% was obtained.
[0098] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was subjected to the
pin false twisting in the same method as in Example 1 to thereby obtain a false twisted
yarn having a stretch elongation rate of 140%. A plain weave fabric was woven using
the obtained false twisted yarn as the warp. The obtained woven fabric was excellent
in stretchability, but was slightly poor in cloth quality. The results are shown in
Table 3.
[Comparative Example 3]
[0099] In the same manner as in Example 5, except that nylon 610 (N610) having a relative
viscosity of 2.7, a melting point of 225°C, and a moisture content of 200 ppm was
used as the crystalline polyamide (B), a latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber
yarn having 66 dtex and 12 filaments, a stretch elongation rate of 16.3%, and a wet-heat-shrinkage
stress variation rate of 200% was obtained.
[0100] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was subjected to the
friction false twisting to thereby obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation
rate of 145%. A plain weave fabric was woven using the obtained false twisted yarn
as the warp. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability, but was poor
in cloth quality. The results are shown in Table 3.
[Comparative Example 4]
[0101] In the same manner as in Example 5 except that the moisture content of the crystalline
polyamide (B) was changed to 2000 ppm, a latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber
yarn having 66 dtex and 12 filaments, a stretch elongation rate of 21. 1%, and a wet-heat-shrinkage
stress variation rate of 170% was obtained.
[0102] The obtained latently crimped conjugate polyamide fiber yarn was subjected to the
friction false twisting to thereby obtain a false twisted yarn having a stretch elongation
rate of 175%. A plain weave fabric was woven using the obtained false twisted yarn
as the warp. The obtained woven fabric was excellent in stretchability, but was slightly
poor in cloth quality. The results are shown in Table 3.
[Table 3]
| |
Comparative Example 1 |
Comparative Example 2 |
Comparative Example 3 |
Comparative Example 4 |
| Total fineness-the number of filaments |
63-12 |
63-12 |
66-12 |
66-12 |
| Conjugate form |
Side-by-side type |
Side-by-side type |
Eccentric sheath-core |
Eccentric sheath-core |
| Polymer type |
Polyamide A component |
N6(T200) |
N6(T200) |
N6(T700) |
N6(T700) |
| Polyamide B component |
N610 |
N610 |
N610 |
N610 |
| Relative viscosity of polymer |
Polyamide A component |
2.6 |
2.6 |
3.3 |
3.3 |
| Polyamide B component |
2.7 |
2.7 |
2.7 |
2.7 |
| Difference in relative viscosity between polymers |
0.1 |
0.1 |
0.6 |
0.6 |
| Boiling-water-shrinkage rate of single yarn (%) |
Polyamide A component |
13 |
13 |
13 |
13 |
| Polyamide B component |
7 |
7 |
7 |
7 |
| Difference in boiling-water-shrinkage rate between single-yarns (%) |
6 |
6 |
6 |
6 |
| Moisture content of polymer (ppm) |
Polyamide A component |
50 |
50 |
50 |
50 |
| Polyamide B component |
200 |
2000 |
200 |
2000 |
| Spinning temperature (°C) |
270 |
270 |
290 |
290 |
| Melt viscosity of polymer (poise) |
Polyamide A component |
800 |
800 |
1400 |
2000 |
| Polyamide B component |
1000 |
740 |
760 |
440 |
| Difference in melt viscosity (poise) |
-200 |
60 |
640 |
1560 |
| Melt viscosity variation width of low shrinkage component (poise) |
155 |
-155 |
170 |
-190 |
| Oil supply |
First stage oil supply (before interlacing) |
Oil agent type |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
| Second stage oil supply (after interlacing) |
Oil agent type |
Water-containing oil agent (containing wax) for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent (containing wax) for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
Water-containing oil agent for false twisting |
| Yarn producing conditions |
Take-off speed (spinning speed) |
m/min |
4000 |
4000 |
3000 |
3000 |
| Draw ratio |
- |
1.15 |
1.15 |
1.20 |
1.20 |
| Raw yarn characteristics |
Fineness |
dtex |
63 |
63 |
66 |
66 |
| Strength |
cN/dtex |
4.0 |
4.1 |
3.8 |
4.1 |
| Elongation |
% |
68.2 |
66.3 |
80.4 |
72.5 |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress |
cN/dtex |
0.003 |
0.013 |
0.039 |
0.071 |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate |
% |
210 |
180 |
200 |
170 |
| Stretch elongation rate |
% |
15.3 |
17.1 |
16.3 |
21.1 |
| Processing evaluation |
False twisting method |
Pin type |
Pin type |
Friction type |
Friction type |
| Wet-heat-shrinkage stress variation rate |
% |
200 |
165 |
170 |
155 |
| Stretch elongation rate |
% |
130 |
140 |
145 |
175 |
| Fabric evaluation |
Stretchability |
- |
A |
A |
A |
A |
| Cloth quality |
- |
D |
C |
D |
C |
[0103] From Tables 1 to 3, it is found that in Examples 1 to 10, the woven fabrics each
having excellent stretchability and excellent cloth quality were obtained.
[0104] Although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to specific
embodiments, it is apparent to those skilled in the art that various changes and modifications
may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention.
The present application is based on Japanese Patent Application (
Japanese Patent Application No. 2021-036047) filed on March 8, 2021, and the content thereof is incorporated herein as reference.
REFERENCE SIGNS LIST
[0105]
A crystalline polyamide (A)
B crystalline polyamide (B)
Y yarn
1 spin block
2 spinneret
3 cooling device
4-1 oil feeder (first stage)
4-2 oil feeder (second stage)
5 interlacing nozzle device
6 take-off roller
7 drawing roller
8 winding device
10a to 10c side-by-side conjugate polyamide fiber
10d eccentric sheath-core conjugate polyamide fiber
11 center of eccentric sheath-core conjugate fiber
12 center of core portion