FIELD
[0001] The described embodiments generally relate to apparel and methods of making apparel.
In particular, described embodiments relate to apparel comprising one or more pieces
made by one or more winding continuous threads into a thread pattern.
BACKGROUND
[0002] Apparel can be manufactured from various materials using a wide range of techniques,
including weaving and knitting. Individuals are often concerned with the durability,
comfort, and/or performance characteristics for an article of apparel. This is true
for apparel worn for athletic and non-athletic activities. Proper apparel should be
durable, comfortable, and provide other beneficial characteristics for an individual.
Therefore, a continuing need exists for innovations in apparel and methods of making
apparel to suit individuals across a range of use cases.
BRIEF SUMMARY
[0003] The present application is directed to articles of apparel comprising thread patterns
with one or more thread layers. The thread patterns, and the plurality of thread layers
within the thread patterns, can be designed to provide desired characteristics for
article of apparel.
[0004] A first embodiment (1) of the present application is directed to an article of apparel
comprising a first piece of material comprising a first perimeter edge, a first thread
layer comprising a first thread defining a plurality of first thread lines each extending
from a first side of the perimeter edge to a second side of the first perimeter edge
and crossing over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the first
thread lines, and a second thread layer disposed over the first thread layer and comprising
a second thread defining a plurality of second thread lines each extending from the
first side of the first perimeter edge to the second side of the perimeter edge and
crossing over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the second thread
lines; a second piece of material comprising a second perimeter edge; and a seam along
at least a portion of the first perimeter edge and the second perimeter edge that
joins the first piece of material to the second piece of material.
[0005] In a second embodiment (2), the second piece of material according to the first embodiment
(1) is a fabric material.
[0006] In a third embodiment (3), the fabric material according to the second embodiment
(2) comprises a woven or knitted fabric.
[0007] In a fourth embodiment (4), the first thread lines according to any one of embodiments
(1) - (3) are not woven or knitted together, the second thread lines according to
any one of embodiments (1) - (3) are not woven or knitted together, and the first
thread lines and the second thread lines according to any one of embodiments (1) -
(3) are not embroidered threads stitched to a base layer.
[0008] In a fifth embodiment (5), the second piece of material according to the first embodiment
(1) or the fourth embodiment (4) comprises a third thread layer comprising a third
thread defining a plurality of third thread lines each extending from a first side
of the second perimeter edge to a second side of the second perimeter edge and crossing
over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the third thread lines,
and a fourth thread layer disposed over the third layer and comprising a fourth thread
defining a plurality of fourth thread lines extending from the first side of the second
perimeter edge to the second side of the second perimeter edge and crossing over each
other at points of overlap between two or more of the second thread lines.
[0009] In a sixth embodiment (6), the plurality of first thread lines according to any one
of embodiments (1) - (5) are directly bonded to each other at the points of overlap
between two or more of the first thread lines.
[0010] In a seventh embodiment (7), the plurality of second thread lines according to any
one of embodiments (1) - (6) are directly bonded to each other at the points of overlap
between two or more of the second thread lines.
[0011] In an eighth embodiment (8), the first thread according to any one of embodiments
(1) - (7) comprises a composite elastomeric thread comprising an elastomeric material
and one or more textile materials.
[0012] In a ninth embodiment (9), the second thread according to any one of embodiments
(1) - (8) comprises a polymeric thread comprising a polymeric material having melting
temperature in a range of greater than or equal to 110 °C to less than or equal to
150 °C.
[0013] In a tenth embodiment (10), the first thread layer according to any one of embodiments
(1) - (9) comprises a first composite elastomeric thread comprising an elastomeric
material and one or more textile materials, the second thread layer according to any
one of embodiments (1) - (9) comprises a second composite elastomeric thread comprising
an elastomeric material and one or more textile materials, and a percentage of elastomeric
material in the first composite elastomeric thread is greater than a percentage of
elastomeric material in the second composite elastomeric thread.
[0014] In an eleventh embodiment (11), the article of apparel according to any one of embodiments
(1) - (10) comprises a bra.
[0015] In a twelfth embodiment (12), the first piece of material according to the eleventh
embodiment (11) comprises a bra strap and the second piece of material according to
the eleventh embodiment (11) comprises a cup portion.
[0016] In a thirteenth embodiment (13), the first piece of material according to the eleventh
embodiment (11) comprises an underband and the second piece of material according
to the eleventh embodiment (11) comprises a cup portion.
[0017] In a fourteenth embodiment (14), the article of apparel according to any one of embodiments
(1) - (10) comprises a bra, the first piece of material comprises a cup portion comprising
a first zone having a first stiffness and a second zone having a second stiffness,
the first zone comprises a perimeter boundary, the second zone is disposed around
at least a portion of the perimeter boundary of the first zone, the plurality of first
thread lines extend through the first zone, and the plurality of second thread lines
extend tangential to the perimeter boundary of the first zone.
[0018] In a fifteenth embodiment (15), the article of apparel according to any one of embodiments
(1) - (14) further comprises a third piece of material comprising a third perimeter
edge, and a second seam along at least a portion of the first perimeter edge and the
third perimeter edge that joins the first piece of material to the third piece of
material.
[0019] In a sixteenth embodiment (16), the article of apparel according to the fifteenth
embodiment (15) comprises a pair of pants and the first piece of material is configured
to wrap around a knee of a wearer.
[0020] In a seventeenth embodiment (17), the article of apparel according to the sixteenth
embodiment (16) comprises a shirt and the first piece of material is configured to
wrap around an elbow of a wearer.
[0021] An eighteenth embodiment (18) of the present application is directed to a method
of making an article of apparel, the method comprising forming a first piece of material
by a method comprising winding a continuous thread around a plurality of anchor points
on a support plate to form a thread layer, the continuous thread comprising a plurality
of thread lines with each thread line extending between two respective anchor points;
bonding the continuous thread at points of intersection between two or more of the
thread lines; and after bonding the continuous thread, cutting the thread layer to
remove the first piece of material comprising a thread pattern comprising the thread
layer from the support plate; and attaching the first piece of material to one or
more additional pieces of material to form the article of apparel.
[0022] In a nineteenth embodiment (19), attaching the first piece of material to the one
or more additional pieces of material according to the eighteenth embodiment (18)
comprises seaming the first piece of material to the one or more of the additional
pieces of material.
[0023] In a twentieth embodiment (20), the one or more additional pieces of material according
to the eighteenth embodiment (18) or the nineteenth embodiment (19) comprises a second
piece of material made by a method comprising winding a second continuous thread around
a plurality of anchor points on a second support plate to form a second thread layer,
the second continuous thread comprising a plurality of second thread lines with each
thread line extending between two respective anchor points; bonding the second continuous
thread at points of intersection between two or more of the thread lines; and after
bonding the second continuous thread, cutting the second thread layer to remove a
second piece of material comprising a second thread pattern comprising the second
thread layer from the second support plate.
[0024] In a twenty-first embodiment (21), the method according to any one of embodiments
(18) - (20) further comprises placing the article of apparel over a mannequin; and
heating the article of apparel on the mannequin.
[0025] In a twenty-second embodiment (22), the method according to the twenty-first embodiment
(21) further comprises attaching the article of apparel to the mannequin at a plurality
of attachment points.
[0026] In a twenty-third embodiment (23), heating the article of apparel according to the
twenty-first embodiment (21) comprises steaming the article of apparel.
[0027] In a twenty-fourth embodiment (24), the mannequin according to the twenty-third embodiment
(23) comprises a plurality of steam nozzles.
[0028] In a twenty-fifth embodiment (25), steaming the article of apparel on the mannequin
according to the twenty-fourth embodiment (24) comprises selectively steaming portions
of the article of apparel by emitting seam from one or more of the plurality of steam
nozzles.
[0029] In a twenty-sixth embodiment (26), in the method according to any one of embodiments
(18) - (25), the thread layer is a first thread layer, and forming the first piece
of material comprises winding a second continuous thread around the plurality of anchor
points on the support plate to form a second thread layer, the second continuous thread
comprising a plurality of second thread lines with each second thread line extending
between two respective anchor points; and bonding the second continuous thread at
points of intersection between two or more of the second thread lines.
[0030] In a twenty-seventh embodiment (27), the continuous thread of the first thread layer
according to the twenty-sixth embodiment (26) is wound at a first tension and the
second continuous thread according to the twenty-sixth embodiment (26) is wound at
a second tension greater than the first tension.
[0031] In a twenty-eighth embodiment (28), the method according to the twenty-seventh embodiment
(27) further comprises placing the article of apparel over a mannequin; and steaming
the article of apparel on the mannequin, where the steaming shapes the first thread
layer and the second thread layer differently to define a shaped region on the article
of apparel.
[0032] In a twenty-ninth embodiment (29), the continuous thread of the first thread layer
according to the twenty-sixth embodiment (26) comprises a first thread type and the
second continuous thread according to the twenty-sixth embodiment (26) comprises a
second thread type different from the first thread type.
[0033] In a thirtieth embodiment (30), the method according to the twenty-ninth embodiment
(29) further comprises placing the article of apparel over a mannequin; and steaming
the article of apparel on the mannequin, where the steaming shapes the first thread
layer and the second thread layer differently to define a shaped region on the article
of apparel.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS/FIGURES
[0034]
FIG. 1 shows an article of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIG. 2 shows pieces of an article of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIGS. 3A-3C show thread layers according to some embodiments.
FIG. 4 shows an article of apparel comprising zones according to some embodiments.
FIG. 5 is an exemplary flowchart of a method of according to some embodiments.
FIG. 6 shows a machine for producing thread layers according to some embodiments.
FIG. 7 shows a heat press according to some embodiments.
FIG. 8 shows a mannequin according to some embodiments.
FIG. 9 is a graph of stiffness in a first direction at various locations on articles
of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIG. 10 is a graph of stiffness in a second direction at various locations on articles
of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIG. 11 is a graph of stiffness in a third direction at various locations on articles
of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIG. 12 is a graph of stiffness in a fourth direction at various locations on articles
of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIG. 13 is a graph of stiffness in a first direction at various locations on two articles
of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIG. 14 is a graph of stiffness in a second direction at various locations on two
articles of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIG. 15 illustrates an article of apparel according to some embodiments.
FIG. 16 illustrates an article of apparel according to some embodiments.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0035] The present invention(s) will now be described in detail with reference to embodiments
thereof as illustrated in the accompanying drawings. References to "some embodiments",
"one embodiment", "an embodiment", "an exemplary embodiment", etc., indicate that
the embodiment described can comprise a particular feature, structure, or characteristic,
but every embodiment may not necessarily include the particular feature, structure,
or characteristic. Moreover, such phrases are not necessarily referring to the same
embodiment. Further, when a particular feature, structure, or characteristic is described
in connection with an embodiment, it is submitted that it is within the knowledge
of one skilled in the art to affect such feature, structure, or characteristic in
connection with other embodiments whether or not explicitly described.
[0036] As used herein, unless specified otherwise, references to "first," "second," "third,"
"fourth," etc. are not intended to denote order, or that an earlier-numbered feature
is required for a later-numbered feature. Also, unless specified otherwise, the use
of "first," "second," "third," "fourth," etc. does not necessarily mean that the "first,"
"second," "third," "fourth," etc. features have different properties or values.
[0037] As used herein, "thread" means a material having a length that is substantially larger
than its width. A "thread" can be a filament, a fiber, a yarn, a cable, a cord, a
fiber tow, a tape, a ribbon, a monofilament, a braid, a string, a plied thread, and
other forms of materials which can be spooled and laid down in a thread pattern as
described herein.
[0038] An article of apparel has many purposes. Among other things, apparel can provide
a unique aesthetic look, provide warming or cooling characteristics, provide support
for portions of an individual's body, and provide other performance characteristics,
such as air permeability, moisture wicking properties, compression properties. Each
of these purposes, alone or in combination, provides for comfortable apparel suitable
for use in a variety of scenarios (for example, exercise and every day activities).
The features of an article of apparel (for example, the materials and components used
to make apparel, and the way these materials/components are made) can be altered to
produce desired characteristics, for example, durability, stiffness, weight, tackiness,
texture, haptics, tackiness, and/or air permeability.
[0039] The articles of apparel described herein can be made by, or can comprise a component
made by, winding one or more continuous threads around anchor points to create a desired
thread layer or thread pattern. Winding the continuous thread(s) around the anchor
points comprises wrapping a continuous thread around a first anchor point, extending
that continuous thread to a second anchor point, wrapping that continuous thread around
the second anchor point, and so on. The number and position of the anchor points can
be utilized to control characteristics of the thread layer or thread pattern, and
therefore characteristics of the apparel. Also, the number of times a continuous thread
is wound from anchor point to anchor point can be utilized to control characteristics
of the thread layer or thread pattern, and therefore characteristics of the apparel.
[0040] Continuous thread(s) of a thread layer or thread pattern can be bonded within the
thread layer or thread pattern. The bonding of continuous thread(s) of a thread layer
or thread pattern can consolidate the layer or pattern and fix thread lines within
the layer or pattern. In some embodiments, bonding continuous thread(s) of a thread
layer or thread pattern can be utilized to control characteristics of the layer or
pattern. In some embodiments, a continuous thread can be bonded to itself within a
thread layer or thread pattern. In some embodiments, a continuous thread can be bonded
to itself at points of overlap between different thread lines of the continuous thread
(i.e., at thread line intersection points). In some embodiments, different continuous
threads of a thread pattern can be bonded together. In some embodiments, different
continuous threads can be bonded to each other at points of overlap between the different
continuous threads (i.e., at intersection points between the different continuous
threads). The bonding of continuous thread(s) can fix the continuous thread(s) in
tension because the thread(s) can be wound around anchor points in tension. The bonding
of thread(s) in tension can allow a thread layer or thread pattern to contract once
removed from anchor points (for example using a cutting process) used to wind the
layer or pattern, which can be utilized to control characteristics of the layer or
pattern, and thereof characteristics of the apparel.
[0041] In some embodiments, a plurality of different continuous threads can be wound around
anchor points to form a plurality of thread layers for a thread pattern. In some embodiments,
different continuous threads can be wound in the same configuration (i.e., around
the same anchor points and along the same paths). In some embodiments, different continuous
threads can be wound in different configurations (i.e., around one or more different
anchor points and/or along different paths between one or more anchor points). In
some embodiments, different continuous threads can define different wound layers for
an article of apparel, or portion thereof. In such embodiments, the different layers
can provide different characteristics to the thread pattern, and therefore provide
different characteristics on the article of apparel.
[0042] Continuous thread(s) can be wound around anchor points in various configurations
to provide varying degrees of characteristics for an article of apparel. The number
of anchor points, the position of the anchor points, the way continuous threads are
wound around the anchor points, and/or of the material of threads wound around the
anchor points can be utilized to produce apparel having desired characteristics, such
as strength, stiffness, air permeability, comfort, abrasion resistance, fit, texture,
haptics, tackiness, and durability. Characteristics of an article of apparel can be
varied by changing the arrangement of anchor points and/or the way continuous thread(s)
are wound around the anchor points. Characteristics can also be varied by altering
the material of continuous thread(s).
[0043] In some embodiments, winding one or more continuous threads for an article of apparel
can comprise winding one or more threads such that thread lines are positioned tangential
to area or zone on the apparel. Threading thread lines tangential to the area or zone
can define a boundary demarcating the area or zone from adjacent areas or zones. By
threading thread lines tangential in this manner, characteristics of an article of
apparel can be tailored as described herein.
[0044] In some embodiments, the thread layer or thread patterns can be cut into desired
pieces of material comprising all or a portion of the layer or pattern. In some embodiments,
the multiple pieces of material can be joined at one or more seams to create an article
of apparel. In some embodiments, the properties of different pieces of material can
be controlled by the thread layer or thread pattern and/or by how the material comprising
the thread layer or thread pattern is cut. Further, the properties for different portions
of the article of apparel can be controlled by the manner in which the pieces of material
are arranged and joined at the seam(s). In some embodiments, an article of apparel
can comprise one or more pieces of material comprising a thread layer or thread pattern
as described herein and one or more pieces of material that do not comprise a thread
layer or thread pattern.
[0045] In some embodiments, an article of apparel comprising a thread pattern or thread
layer, or a piece of material comprising a thread pattern or thread layer, can be
heated to shape the article or piece. In some embodiments, an article of apparel comprising
a thread pattern or thread layer, or a piece of material comprising a thread pattern
or thread layer, can be steamed to shape the article or piece. In some embodiments,
the article of apparel or the piece of material comprising a thread pattern or thread
layer can be heated or steamed on a mannequin. Steaming or heating the article or
the piece can shape the article or piece. In some embodiments, heating or steaming
the article or the piece can shape one or more thread layers to impart a desired shape
to the article or piece. In some embodiments, heating or steaming the article or the
piece can shape different thread layers differently to impart a desired shape to the
article or piece.
[0046] FIG. 1 illustrates an article of apparel 100 according to some embodiments. Apparel
100 comprises a material 110 comprising a perimeter edge 112 and one or more thread
patterns 120. Thread pattern(s) 120 comprise one or more thread layers (for example,
thread layers 300, 320, and 340) as described herein. In some embodiments, a single
thread layer can define a thread pattern 120 for article of apparel 100.
[0047] Thread layers as described herein (example, thread layers 300, 320, and 340) can
each comprise a thread layer border 350 defined by the space in which thread lines
of the thread layer are located. The thread layer border 350 for a thread layer is
the space in which thread lines of the thread layer are located after the thread layer
is removed (for example, cut) from anchor points used to wind the thread layer. A
plurality of thread lines within a thread pattern can comprise a first end located
at a first side of the thread layer border 350 and a second end located at a second
side of the thread layer border 350. For example, thread lines 304 of thread layer
300 can comprise a first end 310 located at a first side of thread layer border 350
and a second end 312 located at a second side of thread layer border 350.
[0048] FIGS. 3A-3C illustrate thread layer borders 350a-c for thread layers 300, 320, and
340. For a thread pattern 120 comprising a plurality of thread layers, the thread
pattern 120 can comprise a thread pattern border 350 defined by the space occupied
by the combination of the individual thread layers. For example, a thread pattern
comprising thread layers 300, 320, and 340 comprises a thread pattern border defined
by the space occupied by the combination of border 350a and border 350c. Border 350b
is wholly contained within border 350a.
[0049] While articles of apparel (for example, article of apparel 100) discussed herein
may be descried in the context of a particular article (for example, a bra), other
types of apparel may comprise features of the described embodiments. Exemplary articles
of apparel comprise, but are not limited to, a sock liner, pants, shorts, leggings,
a sock, a jacket, a coat, a hat, a sleeve, a shoe, a sweater, a shirt, a jersey, a
bootie, a glove, a sleeve, a head band, a wrist band, or a tape.
[0050] Each thread layer of a thread pattern 120 can comprise a thread defining a plurality
of thread lines each extending from a first side 114 of the perimeter edge 112 to
a second side 116 of the perimeter edge 112 and crossing over each other at points
of overlap between two or more of the thread lines. The thread lines extending from
the first side 114 of the perimeter edge 112 to the second side 116 of the perimeter
edge 112 can extend continuously from the first side 114 to the second side 116.
[0051] For example, thread pattern 120 can comprise a first thread layer comprising a first
thread defining a plurality of first thread lines each extending from first side 114
of the perimeter edge 112 to second side 116 of the perimeter edge 112 and crossing
over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the first thread lines.
And thread pattern 120 can comprise a second thread layer disposed over the first
thread layer and comprising a second thread defining a plurality of second thread
lines each extending from the first side 114 of the perimeter edge 112 to the second
side 116 of the perimeter edge 112 and crossing over each other at points of overlap
between two or more of the second thread lines.
[0052] As used herein, sides of a perimeter edge refer to top, bottom, right, and left sides
of a shape defined by the perimeter edge. The top, bottom, right, and left sides of
the shape are located to the top, bottom, right, and left of a geometrical center
of the shape. So, a perimeter edge will have a top side defined by the portion of
the edge located above the geometrical center, a bottom side defined by the portion
of the edge located below the geometrical center, a right side defined by the portion
of the edge located to the right of the geometrical center, and a left side defined
by the portion of the edge located to the left of the geometrical center. The top
and bottom sides does not overlap. Similarly, the left and right sides do not overlap.
The top and left sides overlap at the portion of the edge located to the top-left
of the geometrical center. The top and right sides overlap at the portion of the edge
located to the top-right of the geometrical center. The bottom and left sides overlap
at the portion of the edge located to the bottom-left of the geometrical center. The
bottom and right sides overlap at the portion of the edge located to the bottom-right
of the geometrical center. For purposes of determining the shape defined by the perimeter
edge, the material having the perimeter edge is laid in a flat configuration with
no portion of the material overlapping itself. This same construct for defining top,
bottom, right, and left sides of a shape can be applied to other edges or borders
described herein, for example a thread layer border 350.
[0053] As used herein, a first side of a perimeter edge (for example, first side 114) can
be the top, bottom, right, or left side of the perimeter edge and a second side (for
example, second side 116) of the perimeter edge can be the top, bottom, right, or
left side of the perimeter edge, provided that the first and second sides are not
the same side. Similarly, a third side of a perimeter edge can be the top, bottom,
right, or left side of the perimeter edge and a fourth side of the perimeter edge
can be the top, bottom, right, or left side of the perimeter edge, provided that the
third and fourth sides are not the same, and are not the same as the first or second
sides.
[0054] In some embodiments, one or more thread layers of a thread pattern 120 can comprise
a thread defining (i) a plurality of thread lines each extending from a first side
of a perimeter edge of a material to a second side of the perimeter edge and crossing
over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the thread lines, and
(ii) a plurality of thread lines each extending from a third side of the perimeter
edge to a fourth side of the perimeter edge and crossing over each other at points
of overlap between two or more of the thread lines. The thread lines extending from
the first side to the second side can extend continuously from the first side to the
second side, and the thread lines extending from the third side to the fourth side
can extend continuously from the third side to the fourth side.
[0055] In some embodiments, article of apparel 100 can comprise a single piece of material
110 comprising thread pattern 120. In such embodiments, the single piece of material
110 can be joined to itself at opposing sides of perimeter edge 112 of the material
110 to create the three-dimensional shape of apparel 100. In some embodiments, the
single piece of material can be joined to itself at a seam 130 joining opposing sides
of perimeter edge 112 of the material 110 to create the three-dimensional shape of
apparel 100.
[0056] As used herein, a "seam" is any attachment region between two portions of a single
material piece or two different material pieces. Exemplary attachment regions comprise,
but are not limited to, stitched attachment regions, adhesive attachment regions,
thermally bonded attachment regions, and interlocking attachments. Exemplary seam
structures comprise, but are not limited to, a self-attaching seam, a hem, a butt
stich, a Merrow stitch (tight overlock stitch), a gathered edge, a surge stitch, an
overlock stitch, and an interlocking seam construction. In some embodiments, a "seam"
can comprise a region where two portions of a single material piece or two different
material pieces overlap. For example, a seam can be a region where a first piece of
material overlaps and is bonded to a second piece of material.
[0057] Seam(s) 130 can comprise one or more mechanical attachments, including but not limited
to direct bonding attachments, adhesive attachments, interlocking mechanical attachments,
and/or stitched attachments. Exemplary stitches for use in a seam construction for
a seam 130 comprise, but are not limited to, a Merrow stitch (tight overlock stitch),
a gathered edge, a surge stitch, or an overlock stitch.
[0058] In some embodiments, article of apparel 100 can comprise a plurality of pieces of
material 140, where at least one of the pieces comprises a thread layer or thread
pattern as described herein. For example, as shown in FIG. 2, apparel 100 can comprise
a first piece of material 140a and a second piece of material 140b. In such embodiments,
a first piece of material 140a comprises a first perimeter edge 142a and second piece
of material 140b comprises a second perimeter edge 142b. Apparel 100 comprising first
piece of material 140a and a second piece of material 140b can comprise a seam 130
along at least a portion of the first perimeter edge 142a and the second perimeter
edge 142b that joins the first piece of material 140a to the second piece of material
140b.
[0059] In some embodiments, first piece of material 140a can comprise a thread pattern 150a.
In some embodiments, second piece of material 140b can comprise a thread pattern 150b.
In some embodiments, first piece of material 140a can comprise a thread pattern 150a
and second piece of material 140b can comprise a thread pattern 150b. In some embodiments,
first piece of material 140a can be a fabric material without a thread layer or thread
pattern as described herein. In some embodiments, second piece of material 140b can
be a fabric material without a thread layer or thread pattern as described herein.
[0060] Thread pattern(s) 150 can comprise one or more thread layers (for example, thread
layers 300, 320, and 340) as described herein. In some embodiments, a single thread
layer can define a thread pattern 150 for a piece of material.
[0061] Each thread layer of a thread pattern 150 comprises a thread defining a plurality
of thread lines each extending from a first side 144 of the perimeter edge 142 to
a second side 146 of the perimeter edge 142 and crossing over each other at points
of overlap between two or more of the thread lines. The thread lines extending from
the first side 144 of the perimeter edge 142 to the second side 146 of the perimeter
edge 142 can extend continuously from the first side 144 to the second side 146.
[0062] For example, thread pattern 150a can comprise a first thread layer comprising a first
thread defining a plurality of first thread lines each extending from a first side
144a of the perimeter edge 142a to a second side 146a of the perimeter edge 142a and
crossing over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the first thread
lines. And thread pattern 150a can comprise a second thread layer disposed over the
first thread layer and comprising a second thread defining a plurality of second thread
lines each extending from the first side 144a of the perimeter edge 142a to the second
side 146a of the perimeter edge 142a and crossing over each other at points of overlap
between two or more of the second thread lines.
[0063] As another example, thread pattern 150b can comprise a third thread layer comprising
a third thread defining a plurality of third thread lines each extending from a first
side 144b of the perimeter edge 142b to a second side 146b of the perimeter edge 142b
and crossing over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the third
thread lines. And thread pattern 150b can comprise a fourth thread layer disposed
over the third thread layer and comprising a fourth thread defining a plurality of
fourth thread lines each extending from the first side 144b of the first perimeter
edge 142b to the second side 146b of the perimeter edge 142b and crossing over each
other at points of overlap between two or more of the second thread lines.
[0064] In some embodiments, one or more thread layers of a thread pattern 150 can comprise
a thread defining (i) a plurality of thread lines each extending from a first side
144 of a perimeter edge 142 to a second side 146 of the perimeter edge 142 and crossing
over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the thread lines, and
(ii) a plurality of thread lines each extending from a third side 148 of the perimeter
edge 142 to a fourth side 149 of the perimeter edge 142 and crossing over each other
at points of overlap between two or more of the thread lines. The thread lines extending
from the first side 144 to the second side 146 can extend continuously from the first
side 144 to the second side 146, and the thread lines extending from the third side
148 to the fourth side 149 can extend continuously from the third side 148 to the
fourth side 149.
[0065] In embodiments comprising a plurality of pieces of material 140, each piece of material
can either be a piece of material comprising a thread layer or thread pattern as described
herein or a piece of fabric material without a thread layer or thread pattern as described
herein. Article of apparel can comprise any number of pieces of material 140 joined
at seams 130 along at least a portion of their perimeter edges 142. For example, article
of apparel 100 can comprise a third piece of material 140c comprising a perimeter
edge 142c, a fourth piece of material 140d comprising a perimeter edge 142d, and fifth
piece of material 140e comprising a perimeter edge 142e, and/or a sixth piece of material
140f comprising a perimeter edge 142f.
[0066] In some embodiments, a piece of fabric material without a thread layer or thread
pattern can be a non-woven, woven, or knitted fabric material. Exemplary materials
for fabric materials comprise, but are not limited to, thermoplastic polyurethane
(TPU), polyester, polyamide, polyethylene (PE), PE foam, polyurethane (PU) foam, nylon,
ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (for example, DYNEEMA
® (a type of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene)), carbon fiber, KEVLAR
® (a type of para-aramid), synthetic spider silk, cotton, wool, natural or artificial
silk, polyethersulfone (PES), ELASTAN
® (a polyether-polyurea copolymer), or a blend of two or more of these materials.
[0067] Any number of pieces of material 140 can be joined at one or more seams 130 to form
an article of apparel.
[0068] As non-limiting example, article of apparel 100 can comprise a bra comprising multiple
pieces of material 140 joined at one or more seams 130 to form the bra. In such embodiments,
as shown for example in FIG. 2, a piece of material 140b can comprise a bra strap
160 and another piece of material 140a can comprise a cup portion 162. As another
example, a piece of material 140c can comprise an underband 164 and another piece
of material 140a can comprise a cup portion 162.
[0069] In some embodiments, article of apparel 100 can comprise at least two pieces of material
140a, 140b, with at least one of the pieces comprising a thread pattern 150 and configured
to wrap around a portion of a wearer's body. For example, piece 140a can comprise
a thread pattern 150 and be configured to wrap around a portion of a wearer's body.
In such embodiments, piece 140a can comprise a perimeter edge 142a joined to itself
at a seam 130. For example, all or a portion of a first side 144a of perimeter edge
142a can be joined to all or a portion of a second side 146a of perimeter edge 142a.
Also in such embodiments, at least a portion of perimeter edge 142a can be joined
to at least a portion of perimeter edge 142b of second piece 140b at a seam 130. For
example, a portion of third side 148a of perimeter edge 142a can be joined to at least
a portion of a perimeter edge 142b of second piece 140b at a seam 130.
[0070] Pieces of material 140 configured to wrap around a portion of a wearer's body comprise,
but are not limited to, underbands, waistbands, knee wraps, elbow wraps, ankle wraps,
sleeves, leggings, and collars.
[0071] In some embodiments, article of apparel 100 can comprise at least three pieces of
material 140a, 140b, 140c with at least one of the pieces comprising a thread pattern
150 and configured to wrap around a portion of a wearer's body. For example, piece
140a can comprise a thread pattern 150 and be configured to wrap around a portion
of a wearer's body. In such embodiments, piece 140a can comprise a perimeter edge
142a joined to itself at a seam 130. For example, all or a portion of a first side
144a of perimeter edge 142a can be joined to all or a portion of a second side 146a
of perimeter edge 142a. Also in such embodiments, at least a portion of perimeter
edge 142a can be joined to at least a portion of perimeter edge 142b of second piece
140b at a seam 130. For example, a portion of third side 148a of perimeter edge 142a
can be joined to at least a portion of a perimeter edge 142b of second piece 140b
at a seam 130. Further in such embodiments, at least a portion of perimeter edge 142a
can be joined to at least a portion of perimeter edge 142c of third piece 140c at
a seam 130. For example, a portion of fourth side 149a of perimeter edge 142a can
be joined to at least a portion of a perimeter edge 142c of second piece 140c at a
seam 130.
[0072] As a non-limiting example, an article of apparel can comprise a pair of pants comprising
the first piece of material 140a configured to wrap around a knee of a wearer, the
second piece of material 140b located above the first piece 140a, and the third piece
of material 140c located below the first piece 140a. FIG. 15 shows an article of apparel
comprising a piece 140a comprising a thread pattern 150 and configured to wrap around
the elbow of a wearer's body according to some embodiments. As another non-limiting
example, an article of apparel can comprise a shirt comprising the first piece of
material 140a configured to wrap around an elbow of a wearer, the second piece of
material 140b located above the first piece 140a, and the third piece of material
140c located below the first piece 140a. FIG. 16 shows an article of apparel comprising
a piece 140a comprising a thread pattern 150 and configured to wrap around the knee
of a wearer's body according to some embodiments.
[0073] FIGS. 3A-3C illustrate exemplary thread layers 300, 320, and 340 according to some
embodiments. Thread layer 300 comprises a continuous thread 302 wound around anchor
points 390. Thread layer 320 comprises a continuous thread 322 wound around anchor
points 390. Thread layer 340 comprises a continuous thread 342 wound around anchor
points 390. In some embodiments, anchor points 390 can be different sets of anchor
points around which different thread layers are wound. In some embodiments, a plurality
of thread layers can wound around the same set of anchor points 390. In such embodiments,
separate thread layers can be wound over each other, with one thread layer disposed
over one or more other thread layers.
[0074] As used herein, "anchor point" means a location to which a thread or group of thread
lines is fixedly attached. A thread or thread line can be wrapped, wound, bonded,
or otherwise attached at an anchor point. An anchor point can be a location on an
article of apparel. For example, an anchor point can be a hole or opening left behind
by a structure (for example, pin, projection, or nub) used to wind continuous thread(s)
of a thread layer and/or thread pattern. In some embodiments, a thread layer or thread
pattern for an article of apparel may not comprise any anchor point locations because
all the anchor point locations present during winding of the thread layer or thread
pattern have been removed (for example, cut off). An anchor point can be a structure
(for example, pin, projection, or nub) used to wind continuous thread(s) of a thread
layer and/or thread pattern. And the anchor point structure may or may not form a
portion of a thread layer or thread pattern for an article of apparel.
[0075] A continuous thread wrapped or wound around an anchor point need not be wrapped or
wound completely (i.e., 360 degrees) around the anchor point. A continuous thread
wrapped or wound around an anchor point can be wrapped or wound around only a portion
of the anchor point. For example, a continuous thread wrapped or wound around an anchor
point can be wrapped or wound around 25% (90 degrees) of an anchor point's perimeter,
50% (180 degrees) of an anchor point's perimeter, 75% (270 degrees) of a pin's perimeter,
or 100% (360 degrees) of an anchor point's perimeter. In some embodiments, a continuous
thread can be wrapped or wound around an anchor point's perimeter more than once before
being threaded to the next anchor point. For example, a continuous thread can be wrapped
or wound around an anchor point's perimeter one and a half times (540 degrees) or
twice (720 degrees) before being threaded to the next anchor point.
[0076] Continuous thread 302 can be wrapped around a plurality of anchor points 390 and
comprises a plurality of thread lines 304. Each thread line 304 extends between two
respective anchor points 390. Continuous thread 302 can be wrapped around a plurality
of anchor points 390 in tension such that individual thread lines 304 are in tension
when wrapped around anchor points 390. In some embodiments, the tension at which thread
lines 304 are wound can range from 2 centinewtons (cN) to 10 centinewtons (cN). In
some embodiments, the tension at which thread lines 304 are wound can range from 2
centinewtons (cN) to 6 centinewtons (cN).
[0077] In some embodiments, different thread lines 304 can be wrapped around anchor points
390 at different tensions to impart desired characteristics to thread layer 300. In
some embodiments, a first set of thread lines 304 can be wound at a first tension
in a range from 2 centinewtons (cN) to 10 centinewtons (cN) and a second set of thread
lines 304 can be wound at a second tension in a range from 2 centinewtons (cN) to
10 centinewtons (cN), where the first tension is greater than or less than the second
tension. In some embodiments, the first tension can be at least 0.5 cN greater than
or less than the second tension. In some embodiments, the first tension can be at
least 1 cN greater than or less than the second tension.
[0078] By winding continuous thread 302 in tension, thread layer 300 can be bonded while
thread lines 304 are under tension such that thread lines 304 are in tension in a
bonded thread layer or thread pattern. Bonding thread lines 304 while thread lines
304 are under tension fixes the thread lines 304 in tension within a layer or pattern.
Fixing thread lines 304 in tension will result in thread lines 304 wanting to contract
when thread layer 300 is removed (for example, cut) from anchor points 390 used to
wind thread layer 300. In cases where a portion of a thread line 304 is not bonded
in a fully fixed position, the thread line 304 can contract when removed from anchor
points. In such embodiments, the portion(s) of the thread line 304 that is/are fixed
during a bonding process will be under tension while the other portion(s) will be
free to contract. In such embodiments, the portion(s) of the thread line 304 that
is/are fixed during a bonding process can be under tension within a thread layer or
thread pattern on an article of apparel while the other portion(s) will not be under
tension within the layer or pattern.
[0079] In embodiments where different thread lines 304 are wound at different tensions,
different thread lines 304 of thread layer 300 will be under different values of tension
in thread layer 300. The tension of thread lines 304 can be utilized to control characteristics
of thread layer 300, and therefore an article of apparel comprising thread layer 300.
[0080] In some embodiments, these techniques of winding and bonding thread lines 304 under
tension can be used to impart a desired shaped to an article of apparel. For example,
in some embodiments, areas of a thread pattern comprising thread lines 304 wound at
high tension can define a concave or convex shape on an article of apparel. As another
example, areas of a thread pattern comprising thread lines 304 wound at low tension
may not impart a concave or convex shape on an article of apparel. In some embodiments,
winding different thread lines 304 at different tensions can create localized, shaped
regions (for example, a concave or convex area) on an article of apparel. Further,
the density of thread lines 304 wound under tension can influence the shape of an
article of apparel. For example, in some embodiments, areas of a thread layer or thread
pattern comprising a high density of thread lines 304 wound under high tension can
define a concave or convex shape on an article of apparel.
[0081] In some embodiments, areas of a thread pattern comprising a high density of low melting
temperature polymeric material can define the perimeter of a concave or convex shape
on an article of apparel. In some embodiments, one or more thread layers comprising
a continuous thread comprising a low melting temperature polymeric material can be
wound tangential to an edge (for example edge 360) of the thread layer(s) to define
the perimeter of a concave or convex shape on an article of apparel. In such embodiments,
the edge of the thread layer(s) can comprise a first density of low melting temperature
polymeric material measured in g / m
2 (grams per meter squared) and the area adjacent to or within the edge the thread
layer(s) can comprise a second density of low melting temperature polymeric material
measured in g / m
2 that is less than the first density. In some embodiments, the second density can
be at least 10% less than the first density. In some embodiments, the second density
can be at least 20% less than the first density.
[0082] In some embodiments, areas of a thread pattern comprising a high density of low melting
temperature polymeric material can define area having a concave or convex shape on
an article of apparel. In some embodiments, one or more thread layers comprising a
continuous thread comprising a low melting temperature polymeric material can be wound
such that the area having a concave or convex shape comprises a first density of low
melting temperature polymeric material measured in g / m
2 and the area surrounding the concave or convex shape comprises a second density of
low melting temperature polymeric material measured in g / m
2 that is less than the first density. As a non-limiting example, one or more thread
layers comprising a continuous thread comprising a low melting temperature polymeric
material can be wound such that the area corresponding to a cup portion on a bra has
a first density of low melting temperature polymeric material measured in g / m
2 and the area surrounding the cup portion comprises a second density of low melting
temperature polymeric material measured in g / m
2 that is less than the first density. In some embodiments, the second density can
be at least 10% less than the first density. In some embodiments, the second density
can be at least 20% less than the first density.
[0083] The number of thread lines 304 for thread layer 300 fixed at an anchor point 390
is defined by the "thread line communication number" of an anchor point 390. As used
herein, "thread line communication number" means the number of thread lines extending
from an anchor point to different anchor points. Two thread lines extending between
the same two anchor points (i.e., overlaying thread lines) only counts as "1" for
purposes of calculating a thread line communication number for the anchor points.
For example, a thread line communication number of five means that an anchor point
has five thread lines extending from it with each of the five thread lines leading
to another, different anchor point. As another example, a thread line communication
number of six means that an anchor point has six thread lines extending from it with
each of the six thread lines leading to another, different anchor point.
[0084] Similarly, the number of thread lines fixed at an anchor point 390 for a thread pattern
comprising a plurality of thread layers is defined by the "thread line communication
number" of an anchor point 390 for the thread pattern. For a thread pattern, the "thread
line communication number" of an anchor point 390 is the total number of thread lines,
for the plurality of layers, extending from an anchor point to different anchor points.
[0085] Anchor points 390 can have a thread line communication number of "X" or more for
a thread layer or a thread pattern. In some embodiments, two or more respective anchor
points 390 can have a thread line communication number of "X" or more. In some embodiments,
all the anchor points 390 for a thread layer or a thread pattern can have a thread
line communication number of "X" or more. "X" can be, for example, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6,
7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, or 50, within a range having any two of these
values as end points. For example, in some embodiments "X" can be in a range of 2
to 50, 3 to 50, 4 to 50, 5 to 50, 6 to 50, 7 to 50, 8 to 50, 9 to 50, 10 to 50, 15
to 50, 20 to 50, 25 to 50, 30 to 50, 35 to 50, 40 to 50, or 45 to 50. In some embodiments,
"X" can be greater than 50. In some embodiments, "X" can range from 2 to 100, 10 to
100, or 20 to 100.
[0086] A thread layer, for example thread layer 300, can comprise any suitable number of
thread lines. In some embodiments, a thread layer can comprise 10 or more thread lines.
In some embodiments, a thread layer can comprise 20 or more thread lines. In some
embodiments, a thread layer can comprise 50 or more thread lines. In some embodiments,
a thread layer can comprise 100 or more thread lines. In some embodiments, a thread
layer can comprise 200 or more thread lines. In some embodiments, a thread layer can
comprise 300 or more thread lines. In some embodiments, a thread layer can comprise
500 or more thread lines. In some embodiments, a thread layer can comprise a number
of thread lines in a range of 10 to 300. For example, a thread layer can comprise
10 to 300, 50 to 300, 100 to 300, or 150 to 300 thread lines. In some embodiments,
a thread layer can comprise 10 to 500 thread lines. In some embodiments, a thread
layer can comprise 100 to 500 thread lines. In some embodiments, a thread layer can
comprise 100 to 1000 thread lines.
[0087] In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be bonded at anchor points 390. In such
embodiments, thread lines 304 can be bonded at anchor points 390 via an adhesive,
a bonding layer, thermal (conductive or convective) heat (for example, in a heat press
or oven), IR (infrared) heating, laser heating, microwave heating, steam, a mechanical
fastener (for example, a clip), hook and loop fasters, needle-punching, hydro-entanglement,
ultrasonic/vibratory entanglement, felting, knotting, chemical bonding with a catalyst
of biomaterial, adhesive spraying (for example, CNC adhesive spray deposition), or
by pushing one thread line through the other thread line(s).
[0088] In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be directly bonded together at anchor points
390. In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be directly bonded together at anchor
points 390 via a polymeric material of continuous thread 302. For example, heat and/or
pressure can be applied to directly bond thread lines 304 at anchor points 390. In
embodiments where heat and/or pressure is utilized to directly bond the polymeric
material of thread lines 304, the thread lines 304 can be thermally fused together
at one or more anchor points 390. In embodiments comprising direct bonding of thread
lines 304 at anchor points 390, thread lines 304 can be directly bonded at anchor
points 390 without the use of an adhesive or bonding layer.
[0089] In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be bonded together via a bonding layer.
In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be bonded together at anchor points 390
via a bonding layer. In such embodiments, the bonding layer can be, for example, a
laminated layer, an adhesive layer, a stitched layer, a cured layer, or a screen-printed
layer.
[0090] In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be bonded together without the use of a
bonding layer. For example, in some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be directly
bonded together via, for example, but not limited to, local bonding via an adhesive,
direct local bonding via material(s) of thread lines 304, needle punching, hydro-entanglement,
and ultrasonic/vibratory entanglement.
[0091] In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be bonded at points where two or more thread
lines 304 overlap in thread layer 300 (i.e., intersection points 306). Thread lines
304 can be bonded at intersection points 306 via an adhesive, a bonding layer, thermal
(conductive or convective) heat (for example, in a heat press or oven), IR (infrared)
heating, laser heating, microwave heating, steam, a mechanical fastener (for example,
a clip), hook and loop fasters, needle-punching, hydro-entanglement, ultrasonic/vibratory
entanglement, felting, knotting, chemical bonding with a catalyst of biomaterial,
adhesive spraying (for example, CNC adhesive spray deposition), or by pushing one
thread line through the other thread line(s). Intersection points for thread lines
can be referred to as "overlap points" or "points of overlap."
[0092] In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be directly bonded together at intersection
points 306. In some embodiments, thread lines 304 can be directly bonded together
at intersection points 306 via the polymeric material of continuous thread 302. In
embodiments comprising direct bonding of thread lines 304 at intersection points 306,
thread lines 304 can be bonded at intersection points 306 without the use of an adhesive
or bonding layer. For example, heat and/or pressure can be applied to thread layer
300 to directly bond thread lines 304 at intersection points 306. In embodiments where
heat and/or pressure is utilized to directly bond the polymeric material of thread
lines 304, the thread lines 304 can be thermally fused together at one or more intersection
points 306.
[0093] In some embodiments, a bonding layer can bond thread lines 304 together at a plurality
of intersection points 306 within thread layer 300. In such embodiments, the bonding
layer can be, for example, a laminated layer, an adhesive layer, a stitched layer,
a cured layer, a screen-printed layer, or a chopped fiber layer comprising polymeric
fibers that can bond thread lines 304.
[0094] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can comprise overlaying thread lines 304.
As used herein, "overlaying thread lines" means two or more thread lines that follow
the same path between two respective anchor points. Overlaying thread lines need not
be overlaid directly over each other. Two or more thread lines are considered overlaying
as long as they extend between the same two anchor points.
[0095] The thread lines 304 of thread layer 300 may not be woven or knitted together. In
such embodiments, thread lines 304 can be referred to as "non-woven" and "non-knitted"
thread lines. The thread lines 304 of thread layer 300 may not be embroidered threads
stitched to a base layer. In such embodiments, thread lines 304 may be referred to
as "non-embroidered" thread lines.
[0096] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be a polymer thread. As used herein
"polymer thread" means a thread composed at least in part of a polymeric material.
In some embodiments, a polymer thread can be composed entirely of one or more polymeric
materials. In some embodiments, a polymer thread can comprise a polymeric material
coated around a core (which may or may not be composed of a polymeric material). In
such embodiments, the core can be encapsulated by the coating material. In some embodiments,
a polymer thread can comprise a non-polymer core coated, covered, or encapsulated
with a polymeric material. In some embodiments, a polymer thread can comprise a polymer
core coated, covered, or encapsulated with a non-polymeric material. In some embodiments,
a polymer thread can be a braided thread with one or more braids composed of a polymeric
material. In some embodiments, the polymeric material(s) of a polymer thread can be
thermoplastic material(s). In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be a thread
coated with an activatable agent, for example a heat activated adhesive or a UV-activated
adhesive. In some embodiments, a CNC machine for winding a continuous thread 302 with
an activatable agent coating can comprise a robotic arm for activing the coating as
continuous thread 302 is being wound around anchor points 390.
[0097] Suitable polymeric materials for polymer threads discussed herein comprise, but are
not limited to, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU), a rubber, and silicone. In some
embodiments, the TPU can be recycled TPU. In some embodiments, the polymeric material
can be a photo-reactive (infrared or ultraviolet light reactive) polymeric material,
such as a photo-reactive TPU. In some embodiments, the polymeric material can be soluble
(for example, water-soluble). In embodiments comprising polymer threads with a coated
core, suitable materials for the core comprise, but are not limited to, polyester,
nylon, ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (for example, DYNEEMA
® (a type of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene)), carbon fiber, KEVLAR
® (a type of para-aramid), bioengineered woven, knit or layered materials (for example,
synthetic spider silk), woven, knit or layered plant based materials, cotton, wool,
and natural or artificial silk. In some embodiments, polymer threads can be thermoplastic
polyurethane coated polyester threads. In some embodiments, continuous thread 302
can be a non-polymer thread composed of non-polymer materials, such as carbon fiber,
cotton, wool, or silk. In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be a thread
composed of a biomaterial, such as mango yarn or bio-silk. In some embodiments, polymer
threads can be a thermoplastic melt yarn, polymer yarn with non-melt core, and other
similar types of yarn.
[0098] In some embodiments, the polymeric material for polymer threads can comprise a melting
temperature in a range of greater than or equal to 110 °C to less than or equal to
150 °C. In such embodiments, the polymeric material can be referred to as a "low melting
temperature polymeric material."
[0099] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can comprise an elastomeric thread. A
suitable elastomeric material for an elastomeric continuous thread 302 comprises,
but is not limited to, ELASTAN
® (a polyether-polyurea copolymer). In some embodiments, the elastomeric thread can
comprise a percent elongation in a range of 100% to 300%, including subranges. For
example, in some embodiments, the elastomeric thread can comprise a percent elongation
in a range of 100% to 300%, 150% to 300%, 200% to 300%, 100% to 250%, or 100% to 200%.
Unless specified otherwise, percent elongation of an elastomeric thread is measured
according to ISO 2062 (Textiles - Yarns from packages - Determination of single-end
breaking force and elongation at break).
[0100] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can comprise a composite elastomeric thread
comprising an elastomeric material and one or more textile materials. Suitable textile
materials for composite elastomeric threads comprise, but are not limited to, polyethersulfone
(PES), rayon (for example, TENCEL
™), cotton, polyester, and nylon. In some embodiments, the percent of elastomeric material
in a composite elastomeric thread can be in a range of 10% to 80%, including subranges.
For example, a composite elastomeric thread can comprise 10% to 80% elastomeric material,
15% to 80% elastomeric material, 20% to 80% elastomeric material, 25% to 80% elastomeric
material, 30% to 80% elastomeric material, 40% to 80% elastomeric material, 50% to
80% elastomeric material, 10% to 70% elastomeric material, 10% to 60% elastomeric
material, 10% to 50% elastomeric material, 10% to 40% elastomeric material, 10% to
35% elastomeric material, 10% to 25% elastomeric material, or 10% to 20% elastomeric
material.
[0101] In some embodiments, a composite elastomeric thread comprise an elastomeric material
core with one or more textile materials covering the core. As a non-limiting example,
a composite elastomeric thread can comprise a polyester covered ELASTAN
® core.
[0102] In some embodiments, an elastomeric thread can comprise a melting temperature greater
than 150 °C. In some embodiments, both the elastomeric material and the or more textile
materials of a composite elastomeric thread can comprise a melting temperature greater
than 150 °C.
[0103] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be a plied thread. In some embodiments,
the plied thread can be plied while winding thread 302. For example, a winding assembly
used to wind thread 302 can ply the thread using thread from a plurality of thread
spools (see for example, winding assembly 640). In some embodiments, the plied thread
can be a pre-plied thread spooled around a thread spool.
[0104] In some embodiments, a plied thread can comprise one or more elastomeric threads
and one or more polymeric threads. In such embodiments, a plied thread can comprise
one or more elastomeric threads and one or more polymeric threads comprising a low
melting temperature polymeric material.
[0105] In some embodiments, a plied thread can comprise a plurality of different types of
threads. For example, a plied thread can comprise one or more polymer threads and
one or more non-polymer threads. As another example, a plied thread can comprise one
or more polymer threads comprising a first polymer material and one or more threads
comprising a second, different, polymer material.
[0106] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be a composite co-extruded thread.
In such embodiments, different portions of the composite co-extruded thread are formed
of different materials. In such embodiments, the different materials of the composite
co-extruded thread can provide varying mechanical characteristics to a thread layer
or thread pattern.
[0107] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be a foamable thread. In such embodiments,
a foaming agent in the foamable thread can be activated to expand the thread after
the thread is wound in a thread layer. The foaming agent in a foamable thread can
be activated by, for example, heat. In such embodiments, continuous thread 302 can
be wound in a thread layer to provide areas of increased padding on an article of
apparel.
[0108] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be a dissolvable thread. Dissolvable
threads can be dissolved after being wound in a thread layer by a solvent. In such
embodiments, a portion of a thread layer can be removed by dissolving the dissolvable
thread.
[0109] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be an "active thread." As used herein,
an "active thread" is a thread that changes in length when activated by an activating
agent. An active thread can expand or contract in length when activated by an activating
agent. Exemplary activating agents comprise, but are not limited to, heat, water,
and electrical current. In embodiments comprising an active thread, dimensional characteristics
of a thread layer, and therefore a thread pattern, can be altered after winding the
thread layer. For example, in some embodiments, the dimensional characteristics of
a thread layer can be altered while heating a thread pattern within a heat press or
on a mannequin as described herein. In such embodiments, the altering the dimension
characteristics can impart a desired shape to an article of apparel.
[0110] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can be a composed of a viscoelastic shear
thickening (dilatant) material. The elastic modulus of a dilatant material is dependent
on the rate of strain applied to the material. By incorporating a thread composed
of a dilatant material in a thread layer, the stiffness of the thread layer can change
depending on the degree of stain applied to the thread layer during use. For example,
a thread layer can remain relatively compliant during a low stress activity, for example
walking, but increase in stiffness when high stress levels are applied during a high
stress activity, such as running.
[0111] In some embodiments, continuous thread 302 of thread layer 300 can have a denier
in the range of 1 denier to 3000 denier, including subranges. For example, continuous
thread 302 can have a denier of 1, 10, 50, 100, 200, 300, 400, 500, 600, 700, 800,
900, 1000, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1500, 1600, 1700, 1800, 1900, 2000, 2500, or 3000
denier, or within any range having any two of these values as endpoints. For example,
in some embodiments, continuous thread 302 can have a denier in the range of 10 denier
to 2500 denier, 50 denier to 2000 denier, 100 denier to 1900 denier, 200 denier to
1800 denier, 300 denier to 1700 denier, 400 denier to 1600 denier, 500 denier to 1500
denier, 600 denier to 1400 denier, 700 denier to 1300 denier, 800 denier to 1200 denier,
900 denier to 1100 denier, or 900 denier to 1000 denier.
[0112] Thread patterns as described herein can comprise any number of thread layers. For
example, a thread pattern can comprise two or more, three or more, four or more, five
or more, six or more, seven or more, eight or more, nine or more, ten or more, fifteen
or more, or twenty or more thread layers. For example, a thread pattern can comprise
thread layer 300, thread layer 320, and thread layer 340.
[0113] Continuous threads of any thread layer (for example, thread layers 320 and 340) can
be wound around and extended between anchor points 390 in the same fashion as described
above for continuous thread 302. Further, thread lines of the continuous threads of
any thread layer (for example, thread layers 320 and 340) can be bonded in the same
manner as described above for thread layer 300.
[0114] Like continuous thread 302, continuous thread for other thread layers (for example,
threads 322 and 342) can comprise a plurality of thread lines (for example, thread
lines 324 and 344) wound around and extending between two respective anchor points.
In some embodiments, continuous threads of different thread layers can be the same
thread material. In some embodiments, continuous threads of different thread layers
can be composed of different thread materials. In such embodiments, the materials
for different continuous threads in a thread pattern can be selected to provide targeted
characteristics to areas of a thread pattern, and therefore an article of apparel.
In some embodiments, the denier of continuous threads in different thread layers within
a thread pattern can be selected to provide varying degrees of a characteristic (for
example, strength or stretchability) to different areas of the thread pattern.
[0115] In embodiments comprising a thread pattern with a plurality of thread layers, the
plurality of thread layers can be layered over each other. For example, thread layer
300 can define a first layer of a thread pattern and second thread layer 320 can define
a second layer of the thread pattern. Different thread layers of a thread pattern
can be disposed over each other in areas of overlap between the two thread layers.
For example, a first thread layer 300 can be disposed over second thread layer 320,
or vice versa, in areas of overlap between the two thread layers. Different layers
defined by different continuous wound threads can provide different characteristics
to different areas of a thread pattern, and therefore can provide different characteristics
to different areas of an article of apparel.
[0116] In embodiments comprising a thread pattern with a plurality of thread layers, the
plurality of thread layers can be bonded to each other in the thread pattern. In some
embodiments, one or more of the layers can be directly bonded to each other via the
polymeric material of a continuous thread defining thread lines for at least one of
the layers. In some embodiments, one or more of the layers can be bonded via a bonding
layer. In such embodiments, the bonding layer can be, for example, a laminated layer,
an adhesive layer, a stitched layer, a cured layer, or a screen-printed layer.
[0117] In some embodiments, one or more thread layers of a thread pattern can serve to bond
other thread layers of the thread pattern together. In such embodiments, these one
or more thread layers can be wound using a polymeric thread, which when heated, bonds
other layers of the thread pattern together at anchor points and/or intersection points
between continuous threads. For example, in a thread pattern comprising three thread
layers, one of the three thread layers (for example, the middle thread layer) can
be a wound using a polymeric thread that serves to bond all three thread layers together.
In some embodiments, one or more thread layers of a thread pattern can be defined
by a wound continuous thread coated or impregnated with an adhesive. In some embodiments,
the adhesive can be activated with the application of heat. In some embodiments, the
adhesive can be a dissolvable adhesive that, when contacted with a solvent, such as
water, fully or partially dissolves to bond thread layers together.
[0118] In some embodiments, a thread pattern can be visibly exposed on the outer surface
of an article of apparel. In some embodiments, no lamination layer or supporting textile
layer is disposed over a thread pattern on the outer surface of an article of apparel.
In some embodiments, a thread pattern can be devoid of a lamination layer.
[0119] In some embodiments, the elastomeric content of different thread layers can be varied
to provide varying degrees of a characteristic (for example, strength or stretchability)
through a thickness of an article of apparel. In some embodiments, the elastomeric
content of thread layers disposed closer to a wearer's body in use can be higher than
the elastomeric content of thread layers disposed further away from a wearer's body
in use.
[0120] In some embodiments, a first thread layer (for example, thread layer 300) can comprise
a elastomeric thread comprising a first percentage of elastomeric material and a second
thread layer disposed over the first thread layer (for example, thread layer 320)
can comprise elastomeric thread comprising a second percentage of elastomeric material,
and the first percentage can be greater than the second percentage. In some embodiments,
the first percentage can be at least 2% greater than the second percentage. In some
embodiments, the first percentage can be at least 5% greater than the second percentage.
In such embodiments, the first thread layer can provide a higher degree of stretchability
and/or softer hand feel.
[0121] In some embodiments, a first thread layer (for example, thread layer 300) can comprise
a first composite elastomeric thread comprising an elastomeric material and one or
more textile materials, and a second thread layer disposed over the first thread layer
(for example, thread layer 320) can comprise a second composite elastomeric thread
comprising an elastomeric material and one or more textile materials. In such embodiments,
a percentage of elastomeric material in the first composite elastomeric thread can
greater than a percentage of elastomeric material in the second composite elastomeric
thread. In some embodiments, the first percentage can be at least 2% greater than
the second percentage. In some embodiments, the first percentage can be at least 5%
greater than the second percentage. In such embodiments, the first thread layer can
provide a high degree of stretchability and/or softer hand feel.
[0122] In some embodiments, a thread pattern can comprise a plurality of thread layers with
an elastomeric content gradient. In some embodiments, a thread pattern can comprise
a plurality of thread layers with a decreasing elastomeric content gradient. In some
embodiments, the gradient can be at least 2% for a plurality of consecutive thread
layers in a thread pattern. In some embodiments, the gradient can at least 5% for
a plurality of consecutive thread layers in a thread pattern. In some embodiments,
the gradient can at least 10% for a plurality of consecutive thread layers in a thread
pattern.
[0123] As a non-limiting example, a thread pattern comprising a decreasing elastomeric content
gradient of 2% for three consecutive thread layers can comprise a first thread layer
with a 10% elastomeric content, a second thread layer with an 8% elastomeric content,
and a third layer with a 6% elastomeric content. In some embodiments, the elastomeric
content gradient can extend across three or more thread layers. In some embodiments,
the elastomeric content gradient can extend across four or more thread layers. In
some embodiments, the elastomeric content gradient can extend across five or more
thread layers.
[0124] In some embodiments, the low melting temperature polymeric material content of different
thread layers can be varied to provide varying degrees of a characteristic (for example,
strength or stretchability) through a thickness of an article of apparel. In some
embodiments, the low melting temperature polymeric material content of thread layers
disposed further away from a wearer's body in use can be higher than the low melting
temperature polymeric material content of thread layers disposed closer to a wearer's
body in use.
[0125] In some embodiments, a first thread layer (for example, thread layer 300) can comprise
a plied thread comprising a first percentage of low melting temperature polymeric
material and a second thread layer disposed over the first thread layer (for example,
thread layer 320) can comprise a plied thread comprising a second percentage of low
melting temperature polymeric material, and the first percentage can be less than
the second percentage. In some embodiments, the first percentage can be at least 2%
less than the second percentage. In some embodiments, the first percentage can be
at least 5% less than the second percentage. In such embodiments, the second thread
layer can provide a higher degree of stiffness and/or support.
[0126] In some embodiments, a thread pattern can comprise a plurality of thread layers with
a low melting temperature polymeric material content gradient. In some embodiments,
a thread pattern can comprise a plurality of thread layers with an increasing low
melting temperature polymeric material gradient. In some embodiments, the gradient
can be at least 2% for a plurality of consecutive thread layers in a thread pattern.
In some embodiments, the gradient can at least 5% for a plurality of consecutive thread
layers in a thread pattern. In some embodiments, the gradient can at least 10% for
a plurality of consecutive thread layers in a thread pattern.
[0127] As a non-limiting example, a thread pattern comprising an increasing low melting
temperature polymeric material content gradient of 5% for three consecutive thread
layers can comprise a first thread layer with 0% low melting temperature polymeric
material content, a second thread layer with a 5% low melting temperature polymeric
material content, and a third layer with a 10% low melting temperature polymeric material
content. In some embodiments, the low melting temperature polymeric material content
gradient can extend across three or more thread layers. In some embodiments, the low
melting temperature polymeric material content gradient can extend across four or
more thread layers. In some embodiments, the low melting temperature polymeric material
content gradient can extend across five or more thread layers.
[0128] In some embodiments, a thread pattern can comprise a plurality of thread layers with
an elastomeric content gradient and a low melting temperature polymeric material content
gradient. In some embodiments, a thread pattern can comprise a plurality of thread
layers with a decreasing elastomeric content gradient and an increasing low melting
temperature polymeric material content gradient. In some embodiments, a thread pattern
can comprise a plurality of thread layers with an increasing elastomeric content gradient
and a decreasing low melting temperature polymeric material content gradient.
[0129] Varying the elastomeric content and/or low melting temperature polymeric material
content across layers as described herein can create a material property blend across
the layers. For example, decreasing elastomeric content while increasing low melting
temperature polymeric material content can create a thread pattern with relatively
high stretchability for thread layers disposed closer to a wearer's body in use and
relatively high stiffness for thread layers disposed further away from a wearer's
body in use.
[0130] In some embodiments, the density of low melting temperature polymeric material measured
in g/m
2 can be varied within a thread layer to provide varying degrees of a characteristic
(for example, strength or stretchability) in different zones of a thread pattern.
In some embodiments, one or more thread layers comprising a continuous thread comprising
a low melting temperature polymeric material can be wound such that the a first zone
(for example, zone 410) comprises a first density of low melting temperature polymeric
material measured in g / m
2 and a second zone (for example, zone 400) comprises a second density of low melting
temperature polymeric material measured in g / m
2 that is less than the first density.
[0131] In some embodiments, the density of elastomeric material measured in g/m
2 can be varied within a thread layer to provide varying degrees of a characteristic
(for example, strength or stretchability) in different zones of a thread pattern.
In some embodiments, one or more thread layers comprising a continuous thread comprising
an elastomeric thread can comprise a first zone (for example, zone 400) comprising
a first elastomeric material density measured in g / m
2 and a second zone (for example, zone 410) comprising a second elastomeric material
density measured in g / m
2 that is less than the first density.
[0132] Thread patterns, and thread layers within the thread patterns, as described herein
can provide targeted characteristics (for example, strength, stiffness, air permeability,
comfort (stretchability), tackiness, abrasion resistance, water resistance texture,
tackiness and haptics) to certain zones of an article of apparel. For example, in
some embodiments, a thread pattern, or a portion thereof, can provide a first degree
of a characteristic in one zone of an article of apparel and a second degree of that
characteristic in a second zone of the article of apparel.
[0133] In some embodiments, different thread layers of a thread pattern can provide a first
degree of a characteristic in one zone of an article of apparel and a second degree
of that characteristic in a second zone of the article of apparel. In some embodiments,
different thread layers of a thread pattern can comprise different thread patterns
to provide targeted characteristics to different zones of an article of apparel. In
some embodiments, different thread layers of a thread pattern can comprise thread
lines oriented in different directions to provide targeted characteristics to different
zones of an article of apparel.
[0134] FIG. 4 illustrates zones on article of apparel 100 according to some embodiments.
As illustrated in FIG. 4, apparel 100 comprises a first piece of material 140a and
a second piece of material 140b. First piece of material 140a comprises a first zone
400, a second zone 410, and a third zone 420. Second piece of material 140b comprises
the first zone 400 and the third zone 420. That said, article of apparel can comprise
any number of pieces of material 140 with any number of zones. In some embodiments,
as shown for example, in FIG. 4, a zone can extend from one piece of material to a
second piece of material.
[0135] First zone 400 represents a zone on article of apparel 100 comprising a first degree
of one or more characteristics (for example, strength, stiffness, air permeability,
comfort (stretchability), tackiness, abrasion resistance, texture, tackiness, or haptics).
Second zone 410 represents a zone on article of apparel 100 comprising a second degree
of the same one or more characteristics (for example, strength, stiffness, air permeability,
comfort (stretchability), tackiness, abrasion resistance, texture, tackiness, or haptics).
Third zone 420 represents a zone on article of apparel 100 comprising a third degree
of the same one or more characteristics (for example, strength, stiffness, air permeability,
comfort (stretchability), tackiness, abrasion resistance, texture, tackiness, or haptics).
For example, first zone 400 can comprise a first stiffness, second zone 410 can comprise
a second stiffness greater than or less than the first stiffness, and the third zone
420 can comprise a third stiffness greater than or less than the first stiffness and
greater than or less than second stiffness.
[0136] In some embodiments, zones on an article of apparel, for example, all or a portion
of first zone 400, second zone 410, or a third zone 420, can be shaped regions on
an article of apparel as described herein.
[0137] Each zone on an article of apparel can comprise one or more perimeter boundaries
defining the bounds of each zone. For example, as shown in FIG. 4, zone 400 comprises
perimeter boundaries 402 and 404, zone 410 comprises perimeter boundary 412, and zone
420 comprises perimeter boundaries 422 and 424.
[0138] In some embodiments, the perimeter boundary of each zone on an article of apparel
can be defined by one or more thread layers of a thread pattern. In some embodiments,
the perimeter boundary of each zone on an article of apparel can be defined thread
lines of a thread layer within a thread pattern.
[0139] In some embodiments, the perimeter boundary of one or more zones on an article of
apparel can be defined thread lines extending tangential to the perimeter boundary
of the zone. In such embodiments, winding a continuous thread for one or more thread
layers can comprise winding the continuous thread(s) such that thread lines are positioned
tangential to the perimeter boundary of a zone. In other words, by threading thread
lines tangential to the zone, the thread lines can define a perimeter boundary of
the zone.
[0140] Threading thread lines tangential to a zone can result in a relatively high density
of thread lines around the zone. A high density of thread lines can serve to demarcate
the zone from adjacent or surrounding zones.
[0141] In some embodiments, threading thread lines tangential to a zone can also comprise
threading thread lines such that a relatively high density of thread lines are located
near a perimeter boundary of the zone. By threading a high density of thread lines
nearly tangential to a zone, characteristics of a thread pattern or thread layer near
the zone can be controlled.
[0142] In some embodiments, a thread layer can comprise a continuous thread with a plurality
of thread lines extending tangential to an edge 360 of the thread layer. The edge
360 can be, for example, a portion of a thread layer or thread pattern border 350
or a perimeter edge of an opening in a thread layer or thread pattern.
[0143] In some embodiments, winding thread lines tangential to a perimeter boundary of a
zone (for example, zone 400, 410, or 420) can create an increased thickness at the
perimeter boundary. In some embodiments, the increased thickness can create a bump
or similar feature at the perimeter boundary. In some embodiments, the increased thickness
can create a bump or similar feature designed to provide desired aesthetics and/or
texture. In some embodiments, the increased thickness can create a bump or similar
feature designed to provide increased strength or stiffness at the perimeter boundary.
In some embodiments, the increased thickness can create a bump or similar feature
designed to provide increased cushioning at the perimeter boundary.
[0144] In some embodiments, a thread layer can comprise a continuous threads with a plurality
of thread lines extending tangential to an opening located in the thread layer. By
threading thread lines tangential to an opening, the thread layer can define an opening
that defines the perimeter boundary of a zone. In some embodiments, threading thread
lines tangential to an opening can provide strength at a perimeter of the opening.
In some embodiments, threading thread lines tangential to an opening can provide stretchability
at a perimeter of the opening. In some embodiments, threading thread lines tangential
to an opening can provide stiffness at a perimeter of the opening.
[0145] In some embodiments, methods of making an article of apparel can comprise defining
a perimeter boundary for a zone, and winding a continuous thread around anchor points
such that the continuous thread comprises a set of thread lines, with each thread
line in the set extending between two respective anchor points and tangential to the
perimeter boundary. In the examples described below, thread lines extending tangential
to the perimeter boundary are described as "boundary-tangential thread lines."
[0146] FIG. 3C illustrates a thread layer 340 comprising a continuous thread 342 with thread
lines 344 extending tangential to a perimeter boundary according to some embodiments.
Thread layer 340 comprises an edge 360. Edge 360 can define all or a portion of a
perimeter boundary for a zone on an article of apparel. For example, edge 360 can
define a portion of perimeter boundary 402 of first zone 400 on article of apparel
100.
[0147] Thread lines 344 of continuous thread 342 can comprise a plurality of thread lines
344 extending between two respective anchor points 390 and extending tangential to
edge 360. Thread lines 344 extending tangential to edge 360 can be referred to as
"boundary-tangential thread lines." FIG. 3C shows a plurality of boundary-tangential
thread lines 346.
[0148] Thread lines 344 of continuous thread 342 can also comprise a plurality of thread
lines 344 extending between two respective anchor points 390 and not tangential to
edge 360. Thread lines 344 not extending tangential to edge 360 can be referred to
as "non-boundary-tangential thread lines." FIG. 3C shows a plurality of non-boundary-tangential
thread lines 348.
[0149] In some embodiments, thread lines 346 extending tangential to edge 360 are not wound
around an anchor point located at edge 360. In some embodiments, thread layer 340
can be devoid of anchor points located at edge 360.
[0150] Boundary-tangential thread lines 346 can comprise thread lines 346 that overlap each
other at an overlap point 347 in thread layer 340. Any two boundary-tangential thread
lines 346 of thread layer 340 can overlap each other at an overlap point 347.
[0151] Boundary-tangential thread lines 346 that overlap each other at an overlap point
347 can be disposed at an angle relative to each other. The relative angle of the
two thread lines 346 can be defined by the angle of intersection (θ) at an overlap
point 347. Unless specified otherwise, the angle of intersection (θ) is the angle
formed by the intersection of two thread lines 346 and is measured on the side of
the thread lines 346 facing edge 360 (as shown in FIG. 3C).
[0152] In some embodiments, the angle of intersection (θ) at an overlap point 347 can be
in the range of 90° to 179°, including subranges. For example, θ can be 90°, 100°,
110°, 120°, 130°, 140°, 150°, 160°, 170°, or 179°, or within a range having any two
of these values as endpoints, inclusive of the endpoints. In some embodiments, θ can
be in a range of 90° to 179°, 100° to 179°, 110° to 179°, 120° to 179°, 130° to 179°,
140° to 179°, 150° to 179°, 160° to 179°, or 170° to 179°. In some embodiments, θ
can be greater than 90°, greater than 120°, or greater than 150°.
[0153] Thread layer 340 can comprise any suitable number of boundary-tangential thread lines
346. In some embodiments, thread layer 340 can comprise four or more boundary-tangential
thread lines 346. In some embodiments, thread layer 340 can comprise 10 or more boundary-tangential
thread lines 346. In some embodiments, thread layer 340 can comprise 20 or more boundary-tangential
thread lines 346. In some embodiments, thread layer 340 can comprise 30 or more boundary-tangential
thread lines 346. In some embodiments, thread layer 340 can comprise 50 or more boundary-tangential
thread lines 346. In some embodiments, thread layer 340 can comprise a number of boundary-tangential
thread lines 346 in a range of 2 to 50. For example, thread layer 340 can comprise
2 to 50, 4 to 50, 10 to 50, 20 to 50, or 30 to 50 boundary-tangential thread lines
346.
[0154] In some embodiments, a plurality of adjacent anchor points 390 used to form thread
layer 340 can each comprise a boundary-tangential thread line 346 extending therefrom.
As used herein, a first anchor point described as "adjacent" to second anchor point
means that the second anchor point is the first anchor point's first or second closest
anchor point neighbor. An anchor point will typically include two "adjacent" anchor
point neighbors, typically located on opposing sides of the anchor point. In embodiments
including equally spaced anchor points, an anchor point's first and second closest
anchor point neighbors can be located at the same distance from the anchor point.
As an example, anchor points 390a and 390c are adjacent to anchor point 390b in FIG.
3C.
[0155] In some embodiments, boundary-tangential thread lines 346 overlapping at an overlap
point 347 can be directly bonded to each other at the overlap point 347. In some embodiments,
boundary-tangential thread lines 346 overlapping at an overlap point 347 can be directly
bonded to each other via a polymeric material of the boundary-tangential thread lines
346.
[0156] In some embodiments, an anchor point 390 can comprise a boundary-tangential thread
line 346 extending therefrom and a plurality of non-boundary-tangential thread lines
348 extending therefrom. In some embodiments, an anchor point 390 can have a thread
line communication number and at least one of the threads counted in the thread line
communication number can be a boundary-tangential thread line 346 and the remainder
of the thread lines can be non-boundary-tangential thread lines 348.
[0157] By threading thread lines in this fashion, thread layer 340 can comprise a high density
of thread lines near edge 360 and extending nearly tangential to edge 360. By threading
a high density of thread lines in this fashion, characteristics of thread layer 340
at edge 360 can be controlled. For example, the softness, stretchability, stiffness,
and/or strength of thread layer 340 at edge 360 can be controlled by threading thread
lines as described above.
[0158] By controlling the characteristics of thread layer 340 at edge 360, edge 360 can
be utilized to define all or a portion of a perimeter boundary of a zone (e.g., zone
400, 410, or 420). In some embodiments, an article of apparel 100 can comprise a first
zone (for example, zone 400) comprising a perimeter boundary (for example, perimeter
boundary 402) and a second zone (for example, zone 410) disposed around at least a
portion of the perimeter boundary of the first zone. Thread lines of a thread layer
extending tangential to the perimeter boundary 402 of the first zone 400 can demarcate
the first zone 400 from the second zone 410. In addition, the thread lines extending
tangential to the perimeter boundary 402 of the first zone 400 can provide a targeted
characteristic to the second zone 410.
[0159] In some embodiments, the first zone 400 can comprise thread lines extending through
the first zone 400 in various directions to impart a first degree of one or more characteristics
(for example, a relatively high degree of stretchability) and second zone 410 can
comprise thread lines extending tangential to perimeter boundary 402 of the first
zone 400 to impart a second degree of the one or more characteristics (for example,
a relatively low degree of stretchability).
[0160] For example, article of apparel 100 can comprise a bra comprising a piece of material
140a comprising a thread pattern and comprising a cup portion 162 comprising first
zone 400 having a first stretchability and second zone 410 having a second stretchability.
A plurality of thread lines (for example, thread lines of thread layers 300 and 320)
can extend through the first zone 400 to impart the first stretchability to zone 400
and a plurality of thread lines (for example thread lines of thread layer 340) can
extend tangential to the perimeter boundary 402 of the first zone 400 to impart the
second stretchability to second zone 410.
[0161] Any article of apparel, for example, a shirt, leggings, or a sleeve, can comprise
one or more pieces of material 140 comprising a thread pattern comprising a first
zone 400 having a first degree of one or more characteristics and second zone 410
having a second degree of the degree of one or more characteristics. A plurality of
thread lines (for example, thread lines of thread layers 300 or 320) can extend through
the first zone 400 to impart the first characteristic to the first zone 400 and a
plurality of thread lines (for example thread lines of thread layer 340) can extend
tangential to the perimeter boundary 402 of the first zone 400 to impart the second
characteristic to second zone 410. Similarly, any number of zones can be created by
winding thread lines tangential to a perimeter boundary of the zone.
[0162] In some embodiments, a perimeter boundary for a zone can be defined by two different
thread layers. In such embodiments, an edge 360a of a first thread layer can define
a first portion the perimeter boundary of the zone and an edge 360b of a second thread
layer define a second portion the perimeter boundary of the zone. For example, piece
of material 140f in FIG. 2 can comprise a zone 400 comprising a perimeter boundary
402 defined by edge 360a of a first thread layer and edge 360b of a second thread
layer.
[0163] In some embodiments, one or more characteristics (for example, strength, stiffness,
air permeability, comfort (stretchability), tackiness, abrasion resistance, texture,
tackiness, or haptics) can gradually transition from a first degree of the characteristic
in a first zone to a second degree of the characteristic in a second zone. In some
embodiments, a thread layer within a thread pattern can serve to gradually transition
from a first degree of the characteristic in a first zone to a second degree of the
characteristic in a second zone. In some embodiments, a thread layer within a thread
pattern can comprise a thread line group extending from an anchor point that overlaps
all or a portion of a perimeter boundary of a zone and is configured to gradually
transition from the first degree of the characteristic in a first zone to the second
degree of the characteristic in a second zone.
[0164] For example, thread layer 320 can comprise a thread line group 330 with thread lines
extending from a single anchor point 390 and oriented in a particular direction within
thread layer 320. By arranging the thread line group 330 such that the group overlaps
all or a portion of a perimeter boundary for a zone (for example, perimeter boundary
402 of zone 400 in FIG. 4), the thread line group 330 can gradually transition from
the first degree of the characteristic in a first zone to the second degree of the
characteristic in a second zone due the to the variable spacing of the thread lines
as they extend from the single anchor point 390 to other anchor points on an opposing
side of the thread layer 320. In such embodiments, the thread line group 330 can comprise
a plurality of thread lines extending from a first anchor point 390 at a first side
of the thread layer 320 to a plurality of anchor points 390 at a second side of the
thread layer 320. Also in such embodiments, after thread layer 320 is removed (for
example, cut) from the anchor points 390, the thread lines within the thread line
group 330 can have a first spacing at a first side of the thread layer 320 and a second
spacing greater than the first spacing at a second side of the thread layer 320. In
such embodiments, the thread lines within the thread line group 330 can fan out as
the thread lines extend from the first side of the thread layer 320 to the second
side of the thread layer 320.
[0165] Any suitable number of thread line groups 330 can be utilized to gradually transition
from a first degree of a characteristic in a first zone to a second degree of the
characteristic in a second zone. The ability to control the number of thread lines
within a thread line group 330 and the spacing of thread lines within the group 330
can provide a high degree of control in how quickly or slowly a first characteristic
transitions to a second characteristic.
[0166] Thread patterns, and thread layers within the thread patterns, as described herein
can provide targeted characteristics (for example, strength, stiffness, air permeability,
comfort (stretchability), tackiness, abrasion resistance, water resistance texture,
tackiness and haptics) to particular locations on an article of apparel. For example,
in some embodiments, a thread pattern, or a portion thereof, can provide a first degree
of a characteristic at one or more first locations on an article of apparel and a
second degree of that characteristic at one or more second locations on the article
of apparel.
[0167] In some embodiments, different thread layers of a thread pattern can provide a first
degree of a characteristic at one or more first locations on an article of apparel
and a second degree of that characteristic at one or more second locations on the
article of apparel. In some embodiments, different thread layers of a thread pattern
can comprise different thread patterns to provide targeted characteristics at different
locations on an article of apparel. In some embodiments, different thread layers of
a thread pattern can comprise thread lines oriented in different directions to provide
targeted characteristics to different locations on an article of apparel.
[0168] In some embodiments, thread patterns, and thread layers within the thread patterns,
as described herein can provide targeted stiffness to different locations on an article.
In some embodiments, a thread pattern, or a portion thereof, can comprise a first
stiffness measured in particular direction at one or more first locations on an article
of apparel and a second stiffness measured in the particular direction at one or more
second locations on the article of apparel. In some embodiments, a thread pattern,
or a portion thereof, can comprise a first stiffness measured in a first direction
at one or more first locations on an article of apparel and a second stiffness measured
in a second direction at the one or more first locations.
[0169] Unless specified otherwise, stiffness values descried herein are measured by clamping
a 3-millimeter (mm) section of the article of apparel between clamps of an INSTRON
® machine, pre-cycling the machine at 4 cycles set to a 3-mm extension, and measuring
the force (in Newtons) at a 5 mm extension in a 5
th cycle. Stiffness value measurements are repeated three times and the average is reported
as the stiffness.
[0170] FIG. 9 shows a graph of stiffness measured in a first direction (the superior-inferior
direction "SI" shown in FIG. 4) at various locations (labeled 1-16 in FIG. 4) for
four sample bras comprising multiple thread patterns 150 according to some embodiments.
The stiffness of a control sample at the various locations was also measured. A 500
N load cell was used to measure the stiffness values shown in FIG. 9.
[0171] FIG. 10 shows a graph of stiffness measured in a second direction (the lateral-medial
direction "LM" shown in FIG. 4) at various locations (labeled 1-16 in FIG. 4) for
the four sample bras. The stiffness of the control sample at the various locations
was also measured. A 500 N load cell was used to measure the stiffness values shown
in FIG. 10. The second direction is perpendicular to the first direction.
[0172] FIG. 11 shows a graph of stiffness measured in a third direction (right-diagonal
direction "D
R" shown in FIG. 4) at various locations (labeled 1-16 in FIG. 4) for the four sample
bras. The stiffness of the control sample at various locations was also measured.
A 500 N load cell was used to measure the stiffness values shown in FIG. 11. The third
direction is a diagonal direction oriented at a 45 degree angle relative to the first
direction and the second direction.
[0173] FIG. 12 shows a graph of stiffness measured in a forth direction (left-diagonal direction
"D
L" shown in FIG. 4) at some locations (labeled 1-16 in FIG. 4) for two of the four
sample bras. A 500 N load cell was used to measure the stiffness values shown in FIG.
12. The fourth direction is a diagonal direction perpendicular to the third direction.
[0174] FIG. 13 shows a graph of stiffness measured in the first direction (direction "SI"
at various locations (labeled 1-12 in FIG. 4) for two sample bras (Samples 5 and 6)
comprising multiple thread patterns 150 according to some embodiments. A 10 kilonetwon
(kN) load cell was used to measure the stiffness values for Sample 5. A 500 netwton
(N) load cell was used to measure the stiffness values for Sample 6.
[0175] FIG. 14 shows a graph of stiffness measured in the second direction (direction "LM")
at various locations (labeled 1-12 in FIG. 4) for Samples 5 and 6. A 10 kilonetwon
(kN) load cell was used to measure the stiffness values for Sample 5. A 500 netwton
(N) load cell was used to measure the stiffness values for Sample 6.
[0176] As shown in the graphs of FIGS. 9-13, thread patterns described herein can provide
different degrees of stiffness at different locations on an article of apparel. In
some embodiments, the different degrees of stiffness can be different degrees of stiffness
measured in the same direction at different locations. In some embodiments, the different
degrees of stiffness can be different degrees of stiffness measured in different directions
at the same location.
[0177] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise a first stiffness measured
in a first direction, for example direction "SI," at a first location and a second
stiffness measured in the first direction at a second location. In some embodiments,
the first stiffness in the first direction can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm,
including subranges. For example, in some embodiments, the first stiffness can range
from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 20 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to
15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, or from 10 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm. In
some embodiments, the second stiffness in the first direction can range from 3 N /
5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, including subranges. For example, in some embodiments, the second
stiffness can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 20 N / 5 mm,
from 3 N / 5 mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, or from 10 N / 5 mm
to 22 N / 5 mm.
[0178] In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction can be greater than
the second stiffness in the first direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness
in the first direction can be at least 5% greater than the second stiffness in the
first direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction can
be at least 10% greater than the second stiffness in the first direction. In some
embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction can be at least 30% greater
than the second stiffness in the first direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness
in the first direction can be at least 100% greater than the second stiffness in the
first direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction can
be at least 150% greater than the second stiffness in the first direction.
[0179] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise three or more locations with
different stiffness values measured in the first direction. In such embodiments, each
of the three locations can have stiffness values that are each at least 5% 10%, or
30% different from each other. In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise
four or more locations with different stiffness values measured in the first direction.
In such embodiments, each of the four locations can have stiffness values that are
each at least 5% 10%, or 30% different from each other. In some embodiments, an article
of apparel can comprise five or more locations with different stiffness values measured
in the first direction. In such embodiments, each of the five locations can have stiffness
values that are each at least 5% 10%, or 30% different from each other.
[0180] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise a first stiffness measured
in a second direction, for example direction "LM," at a first location and a second
stiffness measured in the second direction at a second location. In some embodiments,
the first stiffness in the second direction can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5
mm, including subranges. For example, in some embodiments, the first stiffness can
range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 20 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5
mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, or from 10 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5
mm. In some embodiments, the second stiffness in the second direction can range from
3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, including subranges. For example, in some embodiments,
the second stiffness can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to
20 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, or from
10 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm.
[0181] In some embodiments, the first stiffness in a second direction can be greater than
the second stiffness in a second direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness
in a second direction can be at least 5% greater than the second stiffness in a second
direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in a second direction can be at
least 10% greater than the second stiffness in a second direction. In some embodiments,
the first stiffness in a second direction can be at least 30% greater than the second
stiffness in a second direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the second
direction can be at least 100% greater than the second stiffness in a second direction.
In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the second direction can be at least 150%
greater than the second stiffness in the second direction.
[0182] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise three or more locations with
different stiffness values measured in the second direction. In such embodiments,
each of the three locations can have stiffness values that are each at least 5% 10%,
or 30% different from each other. In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise
four or more locations with different stiffness values measured in the second direction.
In such embodiments, each of the four locations can have stiffness values that are
each at least 5% 10%, or 30% different from each other. In some embodiments, an article
of apparel can comprise five or more locations with different stiffness values measured
in the second direction. In such embodiments, each of the five locations can have
stiffness values that are each at least 5% 10%, or 30% different from each other.
[0183] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise a first stiffness measured
in a third direction, for example direction "D
R," at a first location and a second stiffness measured in the third direction at a
second location. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the third direction can
range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, including subranges. For example, in some embodiments,
the first stiffness can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 20
N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, or from
10 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm. In some embodiments, the second stiffness in the third
direction can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, including subranges. For example,
in some embodiments, the second stiffness can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm,
from 3 N / 5 mm to 20 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to
22 N / 5 mm, or from 10 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm.
[0184] In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the third direction can be greater than
the second stiffness in the third direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness
in the third direction can be at least 5% greater than the second stiffness in the
third direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the third direction can
be at least 10% greater than the second stiffness in the third direction. In some
embodiments, the first stiffness in the third direction can be at least 30% greater
than the second stiffness in the third direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness
in the third direction can be at least 100% greater than the second stiffness in the
third direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the third direction can
be at least 150% greater than the second stiffness in the third direction.
[0185] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise three or more locations with
different stiffness values measured in the third direction. In such embodiments, each
of the three locations can have stiffness values that are each at least 5% 10%, or
30% different from each other. In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise
four or more locations with different stiffness values measured in the third direction.
In such embodiments, each of the four locations can have stiffness values that are
each at least 5% 10%, or 30% different from each other. In some embodiments, an article
of apparel can comprise five or more locations with different stiffness values measured
in the third direction. In such embodiments, each of the five locations can have stiffness
values that are each at least 5% 10%, or 30% different from each other.
[0186] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise a first stiffness measured
in a fourth direction, for example direction "D
R," at a first location and a second stiffness measured in the fourth direction at
a second location. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the fourth direction
can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, including subranges. For example, in some
embodiments, the first stiffness can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, from 3
N / 5 mm to 20 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to 22 N /
5 mm, or from 10 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm. In some embodiments, the second stiffness
in the fourth direction can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, including subranges.
For example, in some embodiments, the second stiffness can range from 3 N / 5 mm to
22 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 20 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from
5 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, or from 10 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm.
[0187] In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the fourth direction can be greater than
the second stiffness in the fourth direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness
in the fourth direction can be at least 5% greater than the second stiffness in the
fourth direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the fourth direction
can be at least 10% greater than the second stiffness in the fourth direction. In
some embodiments, the first stiffness in the fourth direction can be at least 30%
greater than the second stiffness in the fourth direction. In some embodiments, the
first stiffness in the fourth direction can be at least 100% greater than the second
stiffness in the fourth direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the
fourth direction can be at least 150% greater than the second stiffness in the fourth
direction.
[0188] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise three or more locations with
different stiffness values measured in the fourth direction. In such embodiments,
each of the three locations can have stiffness values that are each at least 5% 10%,
or 30% different from each other. In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise
four or more locations with different stiffness values measured in the fourth direction.
In such embodiments, each of the four locations can have stiffness values that are
each at least 5% 10%, or 30% different from each other. In some embodiments, an article
of apparel can comprise five or more locations with different stiffness values measured
in the fourth direction. In such embodiments, each of the five locations can have
stiffness values that are each at least 5% 10%, or 30% different from each other.
[0189] In some embodiments, an article of apparel can comprise a first stiffness measured
in a first direction, for example direction "SI," at a location and a second stiffness
measured in the second direction, for example direction "LM," at the same location.
In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction can range from 3 N
/ 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, including subranges. For example, in some embodiments, the
first stiffness can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 20 N
/ 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, or from 10
N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm. In some embodiments, the second stiffness in the second direction
can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, including subranges. For example, in some
embodiments, the second stiffness can range from 3 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm, from 3
N / 5 mm to 20 N / 5 mm, from 3 N / 5 mm to 15 N / 5 mm, from 5 N / 5 mm to 22 N /
5 mm, or from 10 N / 5 mm to 22 N / 5 mm.
[0190] In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction can be greater than
the second stiffness in the second direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness
in the first direction can be at least 5% greater than the second stiffness in the
second direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction
can be at least 10% greater than the second stiffness in the second direction. In
some embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction can be at least 30% greater
than the second stiffness in the second direction. In some embodiments, the first
stiffness in the first direction can be at least 100% greater than the second stiffness
in the second direction. In some embodiments, the first stiffness in the first direction
can be at least 150% greater than the second stiffness in the second direction.
[0191] FIG. 5 shows a method 500 of making an article of apparel (for example, apparel 100)
according to some embodiments. In step 510, a plurality of anchor points (for example,
anchor points 390) on a support structure can be defined. In some embodiments, the
support structure can be a support plate (for example, support plate 630). In some
embodiments, the support structure can be a mannequin (for example, mannequin 800).
In some embodiments, the anchor points can comprise projections on a support plate.
In some embodiments, the anchor points can comprise projections extending laterally
from a perimeter edge of a support plate. In some embodiments, the anchor points can
comprise pins on a support plate.
[0192] In step 520, one or more continuous threads (for example, continuous thread 302)
can be wound (wrapped) around the anchor points 390 such that individual thread lines
(for example, thread lines 304) of the continuous thread(s) extend between two respective
anchor points. Winding continuous thread(s) in step 520 forms one or more desired
thread layers (for example, thread layer 300) and/or a thread pattern comprising a
plurality of thread layers (for example, a thread pattern 150 comprising thread layers
300, 320, and 340). During winding step 520, anchor points can defined by fixed or
moveable members, such as pins, projections, nubs, or shafts coupled to a support
structure, or any other similar fixed anchor point discussed herein. These fixed members
serve to support continuous thread(s) during winding step 520. For example, thread(s)
can be wound around anchor points on a plate, a three-dimensional object (for example,
a mannequin), or a frame. For example, the anchor points can be pins coupled to a
mannequin (e.g., mannequin 800). As another example, the anchor points can be projections
extending from support plate (for example support plate 630).
[0193] In some embodiments, the plate, object, or frame can be held stationary and a winding
device can wind thread(s) around stationary anchor points. In some embodiments, the
plate, object, or frame can move relative to a stationary thread source during winding.
In some embodiments, the plate, object, or frame can move relative to a winding device
that wind thread(s) around the moving anchor points.
[0194] In step 530, the continuous thread(s) can be bonded within the thread layer or thread
pattern. In some embodiments, continuous thread(s) can be bonded at points of intersection
between thread lines via, for example, an adhesive, a bonding layer, thermal (conductive
or convective) heat (for example, in a heat press or oven), IR (infrared) heating,
laser heating, microwave heating, steam, a mechanical fastener (for example, a clip),
hook and loop fasters, needle-punching, hydro-entanglement, ultrasonic/vibratory entanglement,
felting, knotting, chemical bonding with a catalyst of biomaterial, adhesive spraying
(for example, CNC adhesive spray deposition), or by pushing one thread line through
the other thread line(s).. In some embodiments, continuous thread(s) can be directly
bonded at points of intersection between thread lines.
[0195] In some embodiments, continuous thread(s) can be bonded at the anchor points via,
for example, an adhesive, a bonding layer, thermal (conductive or convective) heat
(for example, in a heat press or oven), IR (infrared) heating, laser heating, microwave
heating, steam, a mechanical fastener (for example, a clip), hook and loop fasters,
needle-punching, hydro-entanglement, ultrasonic/vibratory entanglement, felting, knotting,
chemical bonding with a catalyst of biomaterial, adhesive spraying (for example, CNC
adhesive spray deposition), or by pushing one thread line through the other thread
line(s). In some embodiments, continuous thread(s) can be directly bonded at the anchor
points.
[0196] In some embodiments, step 530 can comprise the formation of a bonding layer for bonding
thread lines together.
[0197] In some embodiments, method 500 can comprise multiple winding steps 520 and multiple
bonding steps 530. For example, a portion of a thread pattern can be wound in a first
winding step 520 and then that portion can be bonded in a first bonding step 530.
Then a second portion of a thread pattern can be wound in a second winding step 520
and that portion can be bonded in a second bonding step 530. In some embodiments,
bonding step 530 can comprise a preliminary bonding step to hold the pattern of a
thread layer or thread pattern until a final bonding step is performed. For example,
a preliminary bonding step can allow a thread layer or thread pattern to be removed
from anchor points and be finally bonded after removal.
[0198] In some embodiments, steps 220 and 230 can be performed in the absence of a base
layer disposed between the thread layer or thread pattern and a support structure
comprising the anchor points. As used herein "base layer" means a layer of material
employed to facilitate the placement or arrangement of threads when winding and/or
bonding a thread layer or thread pattern. A base layer can be a layer to which threads
are bonded, stitched, woven into, printed on, deposited on, or otherwise in contact
with on an article of apparel. A layer attached to a thread pattern after formation
of the thread pattern is complete is not considered a base layer.
[0199] In some embodiments, a base layer can define a layer of material for an article of
apparel. For example, base layer can be base fabric layer over which a thread layer
or thread pattern in wound In such embodiments, a thread layer or thread pattern can
be bonded to the base fabric layer in step 530. In such embodiments, the base fabric
layer can define a layer for a piece of material comprising the thread layer or thread
pattern.
[0200] In step 540, a piece of material comprising the wound and bonded thread layer or
thread pattern can be removed from the support structure. In some embodiments, removing
the piece of material from the support structure can comprise cutting the material
comprising from the support structure. In some embodiments, the cutting process can
comprise a laser cutting process.
[0201] In step 540, the piece of material can be cut to define a shape utilized to form
all or a portion of an article of apparel. For example, the piece of material can
be cut to define a perimeter shape for a bra strap. As another example, in some embodiments,
the piece of material can be cut to define a shape for a sleeve. FIGS. 2 and 4 illustrate
various pieces of material 140 cut to define a shape for forming a portion of an article
of apparel according to some embodiments.
[0202] In some embodiments, cutting in step 540 can define all or a portion of a thread
layer border 350 for thread layers of thread pattern and all or a portion of a thread
pattern border 350.
[0203] In step 550, the piece of material 140 can be shaped into an article of apparel.
In some embodiments, shaping the piece of material 140 can comprise joining the piece
of material to itself at a seam 130.
[0204] In some embodiments, shaping the piece of material in step 550 can comprise attaching
the piece of material 140 to one or more additional pieces of material 140 to form
an article of apparel. For example two pieces of material 140a and 140b can be attached
to form an article of apparel. In some embodiments, attaching the piece of material
140 to the one or more additional pieces of material 140 can comprise seaming the
piece of material 140 to one or more of the additional pieces of material 140 at one
or more seams 130 as described herein.
[0205] In some embodiments, attaching the piece of material 140 to the one or more additional
pieces of material 140 can comprise attaching the piece of material 140 to another
piece of material comprising a thread layer or thread pattern as described herein.
In such embodiments, the other piece of material can be made using steps 510-540.
In some embodiments, attaching the piece of material 140 to one or more additional
pieces of material 140 can comprise attaching the piece of material 140 to another
piece of material 140 without a thread layer or thread pattern as described herein.
[0206] In some embodiments, method 500 can comprise step 560. In step 560, the article of
apparel formed in step 550 can be heated. In some embodiments, step 560 can comprise
placing the article of apparel over a mannequin, for example mannequin 800 illustrated
in FIG. 8, and heating the article of apparel on the mannequin 800. In some embodiments,
the article can be heated to a temperature in a range of 80 °C to 120 °C or in a range
of 90 °C to 110 °C.
[0207] In some embodiments, step 560 can comprise attaching the article of apparel to the
mannequin 800 at a plurality of attachment points 810. In some embodiments, mannequin
800 can be an adjustable mannequin configured to be adjusted to an individual's body
type. For example, one or more of the cup size, underbust, torso length, shoulder
width, or chest width of mannequin 800 can be adjusted.
[0208] In some embodiments, step 560 can comprise steaming the article of apparel. In some
embodiments, step 560 can comprise placing the article of apparel over a mannequin,
for example mannequin 800 illustrated in FIG. 8, and steaming the article of apparel
on the mannequin 800. In some embodiments, an external steam source (for example,
a steamer) can be used steam the article of apparel in step 560. In some embodiments,
mannequin 800 can comprise a plurality of steam nozzles 820 configured to eject steam
to steam the article of apparel in step 560.
[0209] In some embodiments, heating the article of apparel in step 560 can comprise selectively
heating portions of the article of apparel. In some embodiments, steaming the article
of apparel in step 560 can comprise selectively steaming portions of the article of
apparel. In some embodiments, steaming the article of apparel in step 560 can comprise
selectively seaming portions of the article of apparel by emitting seam from one or
more of the plurality of steam nozzles 820 on mannequin 800.
[0210] In some embodiments, heating or steaming article of apparel in step 560 can shape
the article of apparel into a desired shape. In such embodiments, heating or steaming
article of apparel in step 560 can define one or more shaped regions on the article
of apparel. In some embodiments, the heat or steam can interact with the thread lines
of different thread layers (e.g., thread layer 300 and thread layer 320) differently
due to the different composition and/or tension of the thread lines within the thread
layers. This difference in interaction can cause the thread lines of the different
thread layers to behave differently when steam is applied. For example, the thread
lines of one thread layer can contract or expand to a different degree in the presence
of heat or steam compared to the thread lines of another thread layer. This different
in contraction or expansion can impart desired shape characteristics (for example,
a convex shape, a constricted shaped, or a flat shape) on different regions of the
article of apparel.
[0211] For example, a continuous thread of a first thread layer (for example, layer 300)
wound at a first tension and a second continuous thread of a second thread layer (for
example, layer 320) wound at a second tension greater than the first tension can contract
or expand differently in the presence of heat or steam. In such an embodiment, heating
or steaming the article of apparel can shape the first thread layer and the second
thread layer differently to define a shaped region on the article of apparel.
[0212] As another example, a continuous thread of a first thread layer (for example, layer
300) comprising a first thread type and a second continuous thread of a second thread
layer (for example, layer 320) comprising a second thread type different from the
first type can contract or expand differently in the presence of heat or steam. In
such an embodiment, heating or steaming the article of apparel can shape the first
thread layer and the second thread layer differently to define a shaped region on
the article of apparel.
[0213] FIG. 6 illustrates a computer numerical control (CNC) machine 600 for winding thread(s)
in step 520 according to some embodiments. Machine 600 comprises a robot 605 for winding
a thread layer (for example, thread layer 300) and/or a plurality of thread layers
for a thread pattern (for example, thread pattern 120) comprising thread lines (for
example, thread lines 304) around anchor points 390 on a support plate 630.
[0214] Robot 605 can comprise one or more thread spools 610 for threading and winding thread
lines of one or more thread layers around anchor points 390. In some embodiments,
CNC machine 600 can comprise a winding assembly 640 comprising a plurality of thread
spools 610 for threading and winding a plurality of different threads.
[0215] In some embodiments, CNC machine 600 can comprise one or more thread tensioners 612
configured to apply a desired tension to thread(s) that are wound around anchor points
390. CNC machine 600 can comprise a controller 615 configured to wind one or more
thread layers around anchor points 390 using a thread model and input data. In some
embodiments, controller 615 can control tensioners 612 to wind thread(s) at desired
tensions.
[0216] In some embodiments, CNC machine 600 can wind a plurality of threads from a plurality
of thread spools 610 simultaneously when winding a thread layer. In some embodiments,
machine 600 can be used to simultaneously wind "overlaying thread lines" from a plurality
of thread spools 610.
[0217] In some embodiments, CNC machine 600 can comprise two or more robots 605 for winding
a plurality of threads simultaneously. In such embodiments, the two or more robots
605 can wind different threads in different regions of a thread pattern simultaneously.
[0218] In some embodiments, robot 605 can ply two or more threads from different thread
spools 610. In such embodiments, a thread layer or thread pattern can comprise one
or more plied threads. As used herein, "plying" two or more threads means coupling
the two or more threads together by twisting at least one of the two or more threads.
In some embodiments, plying can comprise twisting one or more threads around one or
more non-twisted threads. In some embodiments, plying can comprise twisting two or
more threads together.
[0219] In some embodiments, a tensioner 612 can be a mechanical tensioning device with digitally
controlled impedance that is used to dynamically control how tight a thread is fed
through machine 600. In some embodiments, the tension value for thread can be changed
dynamically by adjusting the voltage in tensioner 612. In some embodiments, tensioner
612, can be a manually adjustable tensioner. In some embodiments, tensioner 612 can
comprise a spring configured to adjust the amount of tension applied to thread(s).
The spring can be manually controlled or digitally controlled.
[0220] As discussed herein, adjusting the tension as the thread is wound can provide a number
of benefits. With elastic threads, tensioning the threads places a preload on them,
allowing them to act as if they have a different stiffness in a thread pattern. By
dynamically adjusting the tension, one thread can behave with a range of stiffness,
which allows for customized zones of stiffness and compliance without the need for
changing thread material. This change in stiffness between different zones can be
large or small. For example, high stiffness can be provided in areas where high tensioned
threads are bonded together and low stiffness can be provided in areas where stretch
is preferred.
[0221] In some embodiments, the tension at which a continuous thread for a thread layer
is wound can range from 2 centinewtons (cN) to 10 centinewtons (cN). In some embodiments,
the tension at which a continuous thread for a thread layer is wound can range from
2 centinewtons (cN) to 6 centinewtons (cN).
[0222] In some embodiments, the tension at which continuous threads of different thread
layers are wound can provide varying degrees of a characteristic (for example, strength
or stretchability) through a thickness of an article of apparel. In some embodiments,
the tension at which continuous threads are wound for thread layers disposed closer
to a wearer's body in use can be lower than the tension at which continuous threads
are wound for thread layers disposed further away from a wearer's body in use.
[0223] In some embodiments, a first thread layer (for example, thread layer 300) can comprise
a continuous thread 302 wound at a first tension and a second thread layer disposed
over the first thread layer (for example, thread layer 320) can comprise a continuous
thread 322 wound at a second tension greater than the first tension. In some embodiments,
the second tension can be at least 0.5 cN greater than the first tension. In some
embodiments, the second tension can be at least 1 cN greater than the first tension.
In such embodiments, the first thread layer can provide a higher degree of softness
and/or hand feel for wearer.
[0224] FIG. 7 shows a heat press 700 for bonding thread in step 530 according to some embodiments.
Heat press 700 can apply pressure and heat to a thread layer or thread pattern to
bond continuous thread(s) at locations of anchor points and/or intersection points
between thread lines. In some embodiments, heat press 700 can provide heat at a predetermined
temperature equal to or above the melting point of polymeric material(s) of polymer
thread(s) of a thread layer or thread pattern. In some embodiments, heat press 700
can provide heat at a predetermined temperature below the melting point of polymeric
material(s) of polymer thread(s) of a thread layer or thread pattern, but high enough
to cause the polymeric material(s) to bond (fuse) together, or to other materials
of the thread layer or thread pattern.
[0225] Heat can be applied to a thread layer or thread pattern in heat press 700 in one
or more ways, such as but not limited to, radio frequency heat sealing (welding),
high frequency heat sealing (welding), infra-red welding, and steaming. Heat transfer
between a thread layer or thread pattern and a heat press 700 can be via conduction
and/or convection. In some embodiments, heat can be applied to a single outer surface
of a thread layer or thread pattern in heat press 700. In some embodiments, heat can
be applied to both outer surfaces of a thread layer or thread pattern in heat press
700.
[0226] In some embodiments, heat can be uniformly applied to a thread layer or thread pattern
within heat press 700. In such embodiments, the temperature at which a thread layer
or thread pattern is bonded within heat press 700 can be substantially the same across
all portions of the layer or pattern. In some embodiments, heat can be non-uniformly
applied to a thread layer or thread pattern within heat press 700. In such embodiments,
the temperature at which a thread layer or thread pattern is bonded within heat press
700 is different for different portions and/or regions of the layer or pattern. By
varying the bonding temperature of different portions and/or regions of a thread layer
or pattern in heat press 700, characteristics of the thread layer or thread pattern
in different portions and/or regions of an article of apparel can be varied.
[0227] In some embodiments, the heat applied to a thread layer or thread pattern can be
controlled by controlling heat applied to heat press 700. In some embodiments, the
heat applied to a thread pattern or thread layer can be additionally or alternatively
controlled by one or more inserts 740 disposed between an interior surface of heat
press 700 and the thread layer or thread pattern. In such embodiments, insert(s) 740
can control the heat applied to by controlling the heat transfer between heat press
700 and the thread layer or thread pattern. In some embodiments, insert(s) 740 can
serve to uniformly distribute heat across all or a portion of a thread layer or thread
pattern within heat press 700. In some embodiments, insert(s) 740 can serve to vary
the bonding temperature of different portions and/or regions of a thread layer or
thread pattern in heat press 700.
[0228] In some embodiments, different amounts of heat can be uniformly or non-uniformly
applied to a thread layer or thread pattern within heat press 700 in separate steps.
In such embodiments, the separate steps can serve to selectively soften, melt, and/or
activate particular threads of a thread layer or thread pattern within heat press
700. For example, a first step can soften or melt the polymeric material of a first
thread and a second heating step can soften or melt the polymeric material of a second
thread. As another example, a first heating step can soften or melt the polymeric
material of a first thread and a second heating step can activate an activatable agent
of a second thread.
[0229] In some embodiments, after applying heat and pressure to the thread pattern in heat
press 700, the thread layer or thread pattern can be removed from heat press 700 to
cool. In some embodiments, after applying heat and pressure to the thread layer or
thread pattern in heat press 700, the thread layer or thread pattern can be removed
from heat press 700 and placed in a cold press.
[0230] It is to be appreciated that the Detailed Description section, and not the Summary
and Abstract sections, is intended to be used to interpret the claims. The Summary
and Abstract sections may set forth one or more but not all exemplary embodiments
of the present invention(s) as contemplated by the inventor(s), and thus, are not
intended to limit the present invention(s) and the appended claims in any way.
[0231] The present invention(s) have been described above with the aid of functional building
blocks illustrating the implementation of specified functions and relationships thereof.
The boundaries of these functional building blocks have been arbitrarily defined herein
for the convenience of the description. Alternate boundaries can be defined so long
as the specified functions and relationships thereof are appropriately performed.
[0232] The foregoing description of the specific embodiments will so fully reveal the general
nature of the invention(s) that others can, by applying knowledge within the skill
of the art, readily modify and/or adapt for various applications such specific embodiments,
without undue experimentation, without departing from the general concept of the present
invention(s). Therefore, such adaptations and modifications are intended to be within
the meaning and range of equivalents of the disclosed embodiments, based on the teaching
and guidance presented herein. It is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology
herein is for the purpose of description and not of limitation, such that the terminology
or phraseology of the present specification is to be interpreted by the skilled artisan
in light of the teachings and guidance.
[0233] The breadth and scope of the present invention(s) should not be limited by any of
the above-described exemplary embodiments but should be defined only in accordance
with the following claims and their equivalents.
[0234] In the following, further preferred embodiments are described to facilitate understanding:
Embodiment 1. An article of apparel, comprising:
a first piece of material comprising:
a first perimeter edge,
a first thread layer comprising a first thread defining a plurality of first thread
lines each extending from a first side of the perimeter edge to a second side of the
first perimeter edge and crossing over each other at points of overlap between two
or more of the first thread lines, and
a second thread layer disposed over the first thread layer and comprising a second
thread defining a plurality of second thread lines each extending from the first side
of the first perimeter edge to the second side of the perimeter edge and crossing
over each other at points of overlap between two or more of the second thread lines;
a second piece of material comprising a second perimeter edge; and
a seam along at least a portion of the first perimeter edge and the second perimeter
edge that joins the first piece of material to the second piece of material.
Embodiment 2. The article of apparel of embodiment 1, wherein the second piece of
material is a fabric material.
Embodiment 3. The article of apparel of embodiment 2, wherein the fabric material
comprises a woven or knitted fabric.
Embodiment 4. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein
the first thread lines are not woven or knitted together, and the second thread lines
are not woven or knitted together; and
wherein the first thread lines and the second thread lines are not embroidered threads
stitched to a base layer.
Embodiment 5. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein
the second piece of material comprises:
a third thread layer comprising a third thread defining a plurality of third thread
lines each extending from a first side of the second perimeter edge to a second side
of the second perimeter edge and crossing over each other at points of overlap between
two or more of the third thread lines, and
a fourth thread layer disposed over the third layer and comprising a fourth thread
defining a plurality of fourth thread lines extending from the first side of the second
perimeter edge to the second side of the second perimeter edge and crossing over each
other at points of overlap between two or more of the second thread lines.
Embodiment 6. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein
the plurality of first thread lines are directly bonded to each other at the points
of overlap between two or more of the first thread lines.
Embodiment 7. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein
the plurality of second thread lines are directly bonded to each other at the points
of overlap between two or more of the second thread lines.
Embodiment 8. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein
the first thread comprises a composite elastomeric thread comprising an elastomeric
material and one or more textile materials.
Embodiment 9. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein
the second thread comprises a polymeric thread comprising a polymeric material having
melting temperature in a range of greater than or equal to 110 °C to less than or
equal to 150 °C.
Embodiment 10. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein
the first thread layer comprises a first composite elastomeric thread comprising an
elastomeric material and one or more textile materials,
wherein the second thread layer comprises a second composite elastomeric thread comprising
an elastomeric material and one or more textile materials, and
wherein a percentage of elastomeric material in the first composite elastomeric thread
is greater than a percentage of elastomeric material in the second composite elastomeric
thread.
Embodiment 11. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein
the article of apparel comprises a bra.
Embodiment 12. The article of apparel of embodiment 11, wherein the first piece of
material comprises a bra strap and the second piece of material comprises a cup portion.
Embodiment 13. The article of appeal of embodiment 11, wherein the first piece of
material comprises an underband and the second piece of material comprises a cup portion.
Embodiment 14. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, wherein:
the article of apparel comprises a bra,
the first piece of material comprises a cup portion comprising a first zone having
a first stiffness and a second zone having a second stiffness,
the first zone comprises a perimeter boundary,
the second zone is disposed around at least a portion of the perimeter boundary of
the first zone,
the plurality of first thread lines extend through the first zone, and
the plurality of second thread lines extend tangential to the perimeter boundary of
the first zone.
Embodiment 15. The article of apparel of any one of the preceding embodiments, further
comprising a third piece of material comprising a third perimeter edge, and a second
seam along at least a portion of the first perimeter edge and the third perimeter
edge that joins the first piece of material to the third piece of material.
Embodiment 16. The article of apparel of embodiment 15, wherein the article of apparel
comprises a pair of pants, and wherein the first piece of material is configured to
wrap around a knee of a wearer.
Embodiment 17. The article of apparel of embodiment 15 or 16, wherein the article
of apparel comprises a shirt, and wherein the first piece of material is configured
to wrap around an elbow of a wearer.
Embodiment 18. A method of making an article of apparel, the method comprising:
forming a first piece of material by a method comprising:
winding a continuous thread around a plurality of anchor points on a support plate
to form a thread layer, the continuous thread comprising a plurality of thread lines
with each thread line extending between two respective anchor points;
bonding the continuous thread at points of intersection between two or more of the
thread lines; and
after bonding the continuous thread, cutting the thread layer to remove the first
piece of material comprising a thread pattern comprising the thread layer from the
support plate; and
attaching the first piece of material to one or more additional pieces of material
to form the article of apparel.
Embodiment 19. The method of embodiment 18, wherein attaching the first piece of material
to the one or more additional pieces of material comprises seaming the first piece
of material to the one or more of the additional pieces of material.
Embodiment 20. The method of embodiment 18 or 19, wherein the one or more additional
pieces of material comprises a second piece of material made by a method comprising:
winding a second continuous thread around a plurality of anchor points on a second
support plate to form a second thread layer, the second continuous thread comprising
a plurality of second thread lines with each thread line extending between two respective
anchor points;
bonding the second continuous thread at points of intersection between two or more
of the thread lines; and
after bonding the second continuous thread, cutting the second thread layer to remove
a second piece of material comprising a second thread pattern comprising the second
thread layer from the second support plate.
Embodiment 21. The method of embodiment 18, 19 or 20, further comprising:
placing the article of apparel over a mannequin; and heating the article of apparel
on the mannequin.