Field of the invention
[0001] The present invention relates to a knitted upper for a shoe comprising an integrally
knitted element and a corresponding manufacturing method.
Technical background
[0002] At present, footwear uppers are often equipped with additional functions such as
cushioning, reinforcement or support by applying additional components to the upper
like foams, reinforcement sheets, toe caps, heel counters, eyestay reinforcements
etc. Thus, additional manufacturing steps like cutting, stitching, cementing or other
labor-intensive work are necessary.
[0003] US 2,623,374 A relates to a sock comprising a sole portion, a toe portion and a heel portion having
substantially the same height as the heel portions of the shoes with which the socks
are to be worn and a heel tab which projects upwardly from the back of the heel portion
of the sock with a fold line provided between the tab and the heel portion for folding
the tab down over the outside of the heel portion of the shoe.
[0004] US 2,721,463 A relates to a knit sock which is adapted to be worn with low shoes such as golf shoes
and is concealed thereby when in use with the exception of a heel supporting flap.
[0005] Therefore, the object of the present invention is to provide an upper for a shoe
having additional functions, in particular cushioning and reinforcement, which is
cost effective in its manufacturing.
Summary of the invention
[0006] This object is met at least in part by an upper as defined in claim 1 and a method
for manufacturing such upper as defined in claim 19.
[0007] Thus, the upper for a shoe according to the invention comprises: a knitted main part,
wherein the main part is adapted to form at least a part of a void for receiving a
foot of a wearer of the shoe; a knitted flap; a knitted transition part connecting
the flap to the main part, wherein the main part, the flap and the transition part
form a unitary knit construction and, wherein the transition part comprises a different
knit structure and/or a different yarn and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement
compared to the main part and/or to the flap.
[0008] The invention allows to knit the main part, the transition part and the flap in a
single knitting process as a unitary knit construction which saves time and reduces
manufacturing costs because additional steps of securing the flap to the rest of the
upper can be avoided. The flap is an additional functional element of the upper. For
example, as will be described in more detail below, the flap can function as a reinforcement
or cushioning element. If needed, those functions can be achieved in cooperation with
additional elements such as paddings or reinforcement sheets. In the context of the
present invention, a flap is understood as a piece of knitted material connected along
one edge to the main part through the transition part. The flap may comprise a straight
edge or a curved edge.
[0009] As the transition part comprises a different knit structure and/or a different yarn
and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement compared to the main part and to the
flap, it can function as a natural fold line, i.e. the transition part can be configured
such that the flap naturally folds at the transition part which again might save time
and costs. In contrast, a traditional stitch and turn line is not adjustable in regard
of stretch and other properties and may be detrimental to the visual appearance. The
knitted transition part in contrast offers the freedom to be adjusted in terms of
stretch and strength. The transition part as formed according to the present invention
also provides a better fit and a better comfort for the wearer, since the flap tends
to stay in the designated place. For example, it does not tend to unfold.
[0010] Other advantages of the present invention include saving yarn and textile material
because the different parts of the upper are knitted together in a unitary knit construction
directly on the knitting machine in the right shape. The process of manufacturing
the upper according to the invention can be highly automated involving less human
intervention and associated costs. As more parts are knitted together directly on
the knitting machine manual labor can be reduced. Generally, the present invention
results in less cutting, preparation and stitching work to be done. The product creation
process is accelerated because of predefined knitted components. Although most parts
are produced together on a knitting machine, there is still a high design freedom
because the main knitting techniques that are used for creating visual and functional
effects can be used independently on the flap and on the main part. Other common post
process treatments can be used in addition, in order to improve the appearance or
the functionality of the upper, and in particular of the main part and of the flap,
such as screen printing, high frequency welding, gluing etc. Moreover, the yarns can
be selected and engineered on the main part and on the flap to meet the specific needs.
For instance, in those embodiments where the flap is folded inwardly, toward the void
aimed to receive a foot of a wearer, the yarns used for the flap that will touch the
foot can be engineered to offer comfort.
[0011] Knitting in the context of the present invention relates to both weft knitting and
warp knitting.
[0012] The knit structure of the transition part may comprise a first layer and a second
layer overlapping the first layer and, wherein the first layer comprises a different
number of rows compared to the second layer. In this way, a pre-tensioning or pre-folding
of the flap can be achieved, i.e. the flap would naturally fold in the direction of
the layer having less rows.
[0013] The transition part may comprise at least one row comprising a plurality of loops
the majority of which are frontside loops and at least one another row comprising
a plurality of loops the majority of which are backside loops. Thus, folding of the
flap at the transition part is facilitated by having at least one row with essentially
just frontside loops and another row with essentially just backside loops. A majority
of loops on the front- or backside may mean more than 50%, preferably more than 75%,
more preferably more than 90%, most preferably more than 95%.
[0014] The knit structure of the transition part may be a single layer structure, like for
instance a single jersey. Compared to other knit structures, a single layer structure
is more pliable. Moreover, it allows to achieve a thinner folded edge compared to
a double layer structure. Thus, the main part and/or the flap can comprise a knit
structure other than single layer structure, e.g. a double layer structure which is
stiffer and adds to the stability of the upper, whereas the single jersey knit structure
of the transition part facilitates folding of the flap. Other exemplary knit structures
for the transition part include so called ottoman and links-links structures.
[0015] The transition part may comprise a first yarn, wherein the first yarn is different
from a second yarn of the main part and/or the flap. This allows to equip the main
part and/or the flap with different functions compared to the transition part. In
particular, the yarn in the transition part may facilitate folding of the flap. In
another example, the yarn in the transition part may have a different color than the
yarn in the main part and/or the flap to visually emphasize the transition part and
to delineate the folded edge in the finished product.
[0016] The first yarn may be more elastic than the second yarn. In this way the main part
and the flap are dragged one toward the other by the first yarn of the transition
part and the folding of the flap is facilitated. Moreover, the main part and/or the
flap may be stiffer than the transition part.
[0017] The first yarn may comprise a different color than the second yarn. As outlined above,
this allows to visually emphasize the transition part and delineate the folded edge
in the finished product. This may also serve as an indication during the manufacturing
process in order to indicate the correct fold line when folding the flap.
[0018] The transition part may comprise a frontside layer and a backside layer, wherein
the frontside layer may comprise a more elastic yarn than the backside layer or the
backside layer may comprise a more elastic yarn than the frontside layer. Again, such
an arrangement of yarns causes the flap to fold almost automatically simply by different
tensions created by the more and less elastic yarns in the backside and frontside
layers. The frontside layer may be knitted on a first needle bed and the backside
layer may be knitted on a second needle bed of a flat knitting machine. Alternatively,
the frontside and the backside layer maybe knitted on the cylinder and dial of a circular
knitting machine.
[0019] The flap may be arranged at a tongue portion of the upper such that it is adapted
to cover at least a portion of the tongue or, the flap may be arranged at a heel portion
of the upper. When arranged at the tongue, the flap may cover the laces or a part
thereof. In this manner the flap can be used for instance to cover the lacing and
the free ends of the laces and to prevent them from unfastening. When arranged at
the heel, the flap may be folded to the inside of the upper to serve as a cushioning
(with additional paddings if needed).
[0020] The flap may be arranged in a lace or eyelets area of the upper such that it is adapted
to reinforce the lace or eyelets area. In this way, the upper can be provided with
an integral reinforcement at the lace or eyelets area without the need of attaching
additional components.
[0021] In addition, or alternatively, the flap may be arranged in a sole area of the upper
such that it is adapted to provide a better cushioning of the sole part of the upper.
In particular, the upper may comprise a sole portion, adapted to at least partially
(or entirely) cover a sole of a user. For example, the upper may comprise a sock-like
shape. The flap may be arranged to partially or entirely overlap the sole portion
of the upper.
[0022] In some embodiments, the sole portion of the upper may be knitted as two parts, e.g.,
a first sole part and a second sole part of the sole portion at least partially overlapping
the first sole part. Generally, the first sole part and the second sole part may be
knitted. For example, the first sole part may comprise a knitted main part, e.g.,
may correspond to the knitted main part, and the second sole part may comprise a flap,
e.g., may correspond to the knitted flap. Specifically, the first sole part may comprise
a double layer knitted material and/or the second sole part may comprise a double
layer knitted material.
[0023] In addition, or alternatively, the first sole part and the second sole part may be
at least partially connected through the transition part. For example, the first sole
part and the second sole part may be connected by means of the transition part in
a heel area, e.g., in a region adapted to receive a heel.
[0024] The flap may be folded such that the flap and a portion of the main part of the upper
form a void. The void may be filled with additional elements providing additional
functions to the upper as will be outlined below. Generally, in the context of the
present invention, components that may be inserted into the void include a heel counter,
a toe cap, a cushioning foam, a reinforcement sheet etc. The position and/or shape
of the flap may vary depending on the particular type of application.
[0025] A padding and/or reinforcement may be arranged in the void. Thus, the padding and/or
reinforcement can be attached to the upper simply by placing it in the void formed
by the integral flap and the main part of the upper. The padding and/or reinforcement
can be kept in place by securing the free edges of the flap to the main part of the
upper, for instance by stitching. In another embodiment the padding/reinforcement
may be glued or heat bonded to the flap or to the main part to keep it in place.
[0026] When the flap is arranged in a sole area of the upper as described above, for instance,
a padding may be arranged between the first sole part and the second sole part. For
example, the padding may be arranged between the first sole part and the second sole
part before connecting the first sole part to the second sole part, e.g., via stitching.
In some embodiments, a midsole may be at least partially attached to the sole portion
of the upper. For example, the midsole may be at least partially attached to an outer
and/or external surface of the sole portion. Specifically, the midsole may be at least
partially attached to an outer and/or external surface of the first sole part and/or
the second sole part of the sole portion. In addition, or alternatively, at least
a part of the midsole may be at least partially embedded within the sole portion of
the upper, e.g., embedded in the kitted textile. For example, the at least a part
of the sole portion may be arranged and/or placed between the first sole part and
the second sole part. Specifically, the at least a part of the sole portion may be
arranged and/or placed between the first sole part and the second sole part before
connecting the first sole part and the second sole part, e.g., by stitching.
[0027] The flap may comprise a Jacquard knit structure. The Jacquard knit structure may
be a single layer or a double layer knit structure. Generally, the flap may comprise
a single layer or a double layer knit structure. A Jacquard structure provides the
possibility to create a colored pattern or writings, so it offers color options. Double
layer Jacquard has more substance compared to single layer. Single layer Jacquard
is flimsy and it can be used if not too much thickness should be added. On a Jacquard
structure, besides the colors, also the properties of the material could be adjusted
by varying structures and using different types of yarn, in a different way than could
be done on a simple double layer structure.
[0028] The flap may comprise a stretch yarn. In this way, the flap can be provided with
stretch which may be advantageous in certain areas of the upper. Another advantage
of having a stretch yarn is that the flap can better adapt to the shape of the upper
in case it is placed on a curved area, without creating creases. For instance, it
is advantageous to use a stretchable yarn, like spandex or an elastic yarn, when the
flap is placed on the interior of the heel area, so that it can stretch to cover the
desired area without creating creases that would be uncomfortable for the wearer.
[0029] The transition part may comprise at least one yarn that is also present in the main
part, wherein the number of plies of this yarn in the transition part is lower than
the number of plies in the main part. Using less plies allows to obtain a thinner
material, so that the transition part and/or the flap can be thinner than the rest
of the upper. If it is in the transition area this allows to get a finer bending line
and to more easily bend over the flap. If it is on the flap, this allows to obtain
a thinner flap and thus reducing material and weight where it is not needed and also,
in case the flap is folded toward the inside of the shoe, like on the heel area, this
allows improving the wearing comfort as the thickness of the material inside the shoe
is lower. Instead of using a different number of plies another option could be using
yarns having different deniers, e.g. 75 den and 150 den.
[0030] The main part, the transition part and the flap may have been knitted in a single
knitting process forming a one-piece construction. This allows to save time and costs
as the assembly of separate components is avoided. In addition, the number of seams
is reduced to a minimum which adds to the visual appearance of the upper and a better
wearing comfort.
[0031] The flap may have been formed by partial knitting. Partial knitting is a technique
which allows to use only a specific needle area of a series of needles for stitch
formation. Certain needles are not knitting but their loops are still hanging and
restart the knitting after a certain amount of rows. Thus, no knitting process takes
place over the entire series of needles. Partial knitting allows to obtain an upper
having an edge with almost arbitrary shapes. This allows to knit the flap together
with the main part and the transition part in just a single knitting process. The
partial knitting on the flap may mirror the shape of the partial knitting on the main
part. Thus, both the correspondent main part that will be overlapped by the flap and
the flap are formed by using partial knitting. Partial knitting also allows to obtain
curved and three-dimensional shapes.
[0032] Another aspect of the present invention relates to a shoe comprising an upper as
described herein and a sole structure attached to the upper. The particular embodiments
of the upper as described herein and their advantages are applicable to the shoe comprising
such an upper as well.
[0033] A further aspect of the present invention relates to a method for manufacturing an
upper for a shoe comprising the steps:
- a.) knitting a main part, wherein the main part is adapted to form at least a part
of a void for receiving a foot of a wearer of the shoe;
- b.) knitting a flap;
- c.) knitting a transition part connecting the flap to the main part,
wherein steps a.), b.) and c.) are performed in a single knitting process, and
wherein the transition part comprises a different knit structure and/or a different
yarn and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement compared to the main part and to
the flap.
[0034] What is described herein with respect to the upper according to the invention is
applicable to the method of manufacturing such an upper as well.
[0035] Generally, the steps a.), b.) and c.) of the method may be performed in an arbitrary
order to allow for maximum flexibility when manufacturing the upper.
[0036] An embodiment of the method may further be characterized in that the knit structure
of the transition part comprises a first layer and a second layer overlapping the
first layer and, wherein step c.) comprises knitting the transition part such that
the first layer comprises a different number of rows compared to the second layer.
[0037] Step c.) of the method may comprise knitting the transition part such that at least
one row comprises a plurality of loops the majority of which are frontside loops and
at least one another row comprises a plurality of loopy the majority of which are
backside loops.
[0038] Step c.) of the method may comprise knitting the transition part as a single layer
structure.
[0039] The transition part may comprise a first yarn, wherein the first yarn is different
from a second yarn of the main part and/or the flap. The first yarn may be more elastic
than the second yarn. The first yarn comprises a different color than the second yarn.
The flap may be arranged at a heel portion or at a tongue portion of the upper such
that it is adapted to cover at least a portion of the tongue. The flap may be arranged
in a lace area of the upper such that it is adapted to reinforce the lace area. Regarding
the yarn and the position of the flap, reference is made to the advantages already
mentioned.
[0040] The method may further comprise the step of folding the flap such that the flap and
a portion of the main part of the upper form a void. The method may further comprise
the step of arranging a padding and/or reinforcement in the void. Again, reference
is made to the advantages mentioned with respect to the void formed by the flap and
the main part.
[0041] The method may further comprise the step of securing a free end of the flap to the
main part after arranging the padding and or/ reinforcement in the void. In this way,
the padding or reinforcement can firmly be held in place in the void. For example,
the free end of the flap may be stitched or glued to the main part. Alternatively,
a melting yarn in the knit (either in the flap, the main part or both) could be used
or a tape could be applied. The melt yarn could also attach to the padding/reinforcement.
Additionally, the padding/reinforcement may comprise an adhesive surface to contribute
keeping it in place.
[0042] Step b.) of the method according to the invention may comprise knitting the flap
as a Jacquard knit structure. The flap may comprise a stretch yarn. Step b.) of the
method according to the invention may comprise knitting the flap using partial knitting.
Reference is made to the advantages mentioned in the context of the upper.
[0043] In step b.) of the method according to the invention a tighter stitch tension may
be used than in steps a.) and/or c.). Thus, the flap may generally obtain a tighter
structure which adds to the stiffness and stability of the flap. This could be done
for instance if there are less plies in order to adapt the stitch length to the number
of plies that are used. It can also be done to reduce the stretch or increase the
support.
Short description of the figures
[0044] In the following, exemplary embodiments of the invention are described with reference
to the figures. The figures show:
- Figs. 1A and 1B:
- an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, namely a knitted upper comprising
a main part, flap and transition part;
- Figs. 1C and 1D:
- the embodiment of Figs. 1A and 1B with the flap folded open;
- Fig. 2:
- an exemplary knit program that can be used in the context of the present invention,
particularly for the embodiment shown in Figs. 4A-B;
- Figs. 3A and 3B:
- exemplary embodiments of shoes according to the present invention;
- Figs. 4A-D:
- another exemplary embodiment of a portion of a knitted upper according to the invention;
and
- Fig. 5:
- an exemplary method of manufacturing an upper according to the present invention.
Detailed description of preferred embodiments
[0045] In the following, only some possible embodiments of the invention are described in
detail. However, the invention is not limited to those embodiments. It is to be understood
that these exemplary embodiments can be modified in a number of ways and combined
with each other whenever compatible and that certain features may be omitted in so
far as they appear dispensable.
[0046] Figures 1A and 1B show an exemplary embodiment of the present invention, namely a
detail of a knitted upper 1 for a shoe. Fig. 1A shows the inside of the upper 1, i.e.
the side facing a foot of a wearer of the shoe. Fig. 1B shows the outside of the upper
1, i.e. the upper 1 of Fig. 1A flipped horizontally. It is to be noted that the idea
of the present invention is to be applicable to apparel as well. Thus, the example
of Figures 1A and 1B as well as the subsequent examples and embodiments are equally
applicable to an apparel instead of an upper.
[0047] The upper 1 is shown in a flat configuration, i.e. before it is shaped and connected
to a sole structure in order to form a complete shoe. Thus, the upper 1 can be shaped
and connected to other elements (e.g. a tongue, toe box, etc.) if needed and is adapted
to form at least a part of a void for receiving a foot of a wearer of the shoe. The
upper 1 comprises at least three parts which are of importance in the context of the
present invention.
[0048] The knitted main part 2 in this embodiment forms the majority of the upper 1 and
would form most of the void for inserting a foot once the upper 1 is shaped and connected
to a sole structure. In this embodiment, the main part 2 comprises lace holes, two
of which are exemplarily denoted by reference numeral 5. In other embodiments, the
upper would not comprise lace holes but other means for securing the shoe to the foot
like hook-and-loop fasteners or straps. In other examples, the upper 1 would not comprise
any fastening means at all and the knitwear of the upper 1 would be adapted to secure
the shoe to the foot like a sock.
[0049] The upper 1 also comprises a knitted flap 3 which is connected to the main part 2
via a transition portion 4. The flap 3 in this example is arranged in the heel portion
of the upper. In other examples, the flap could be arranged at other locations of
the upper, e.g. at a lace portion or a tongue portion. The flap 4 in the example of
Figures 1A and 1B is arranged at the inside of the main part 2 of the upper 1 and
covers a portion of the inside of the main part 2. In other examples, the flap could
cover other portions of the main part 2 and could cover for example an outside of
the main part 2.
[0050] The flap 3 is connected to the main part 2 of the upper 1 by the knitted transition
part 4. The main part 2, the flap 3 and the transition part 4 form a unitary knit
construction. Thus, the main part 2, the flap 3 and the transition part 4 can be manufactured
in a single knitting process on a flat or circular knitting machine. Assembling of
separate parts is not necessary according to the present invention. The knitted transition
part 4 in the example of Figures 1A and 1B comprises a different yarn compared to
the main part 2 and to the flap 3 which was threaded on a different feeder. The yarn
differs in color, i.e. the colors of the yarns of the main part 2 and the flap 3 are
different from the color of the yarn of the transition part 4.
[0051] In other examples, the transition part 4 would comprise a different knit structure
and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement compared to the main part 2 and to the
flap 3. A different placement of a yarn relates to the placement of the yarn in the
knitting machine and, consequently, in the knit structure. For example, a yarn placed
on the front or back needle bed in the knitting machine ends up on the front or back
layer on the knit structure. Thus, a different yarn placement comprises for example
cases where for instance the same yarns are used on the transition part and on the
flap and/or the main part, but they are placed differently. For instance, on the flap
and/or the main part there could be elastic and polyester yarns placed both on the
front and back layer and on the transition part polyester yarn could be placed only
on the front or back layer and elastic on the other layer.
[0052] In another example, the main part 2 and the flap 3 could comprise a Jacquard knit
structure, whereas the transition part could comprise a single jersey knit structure.
In another example, the transition part 4 could comprise a different combination of
yarns compared to the main part 2 and the flap 3. For example, the transition part
4 could comprise an elastic yarn and a less elastic yarn, whereas the main part 2
and the flap 3 could comprise just an inelastic yarn.
[0053] Figures 1C and 1D show the upper 1 of Figures 1A and 1B with the flap 3 open, i.e.
folded away from the main part 2. Thus, Fig. 1C corresponds to Fig. 1A and shows the
inside of the upper 1, whereas Fig. 1D corresponds to Fig. 1B and shows the outside
of the upper 1.
[0054] Generally, the different parts of the upper 1 such as the main part 2, the flap 3
and the transition part 4 may comprise different knit structures.
[0055] Fig. 2 illustrates an exemplary knit program that can be used to program a knitting
machine in order to manufacture for example an upper 1 as described with respect to
Figures 1A-1D.
[0056] Specifically, the program shows the embodiments of Figs. 4A and 4B. The program comprises
an area for the main part 2, an area for the flap 3 and an area for the transition
part 4 of the upper 1. As explained, the main part 2, flap 3 and transition part 4
are manufactured in a single knitting process as is also clear from the knitting program
of Fig. 2. In the areas denoted by reference numeral 6, partial knitting is used to
shape the edge of the main part 2 and of the flap 4. The partial knitting on the flap
3 mirrors the shape of the partial knitting on the main part 2. Thus, both the correspondent
main part 2 that will be overlapped by the flap 3 and the flap 3 are formed by using
partial knitting. The flap 3 is connected to the main part 2 by the transition part
4 which in this example comprises two kitting rows, namely a back stitch row near
the flap 3 and a front stitch row near the main part 2. The flap 3 comprises a Jacquard
structure for decoration purposes, namely a logo 7. Additionally or alternatively,
the flap could include a different yarn compared to the main part 2 and/or the transition
part 4, for example a moisture wicking yarn.
[0057] Fig. 3A shows a shoe 30 comprising the upper 1 of Figures 1A-1D. Therefore, what
has been explained with respect to the exemplary upper 1 of Figures 1A-1D is applicable
to the shoe 10 of
[0058] Fig. 3 as well. In Fig. 3, the upper 1 has been brought in a three-dimensional shape
to form a void into which a user can insert a foot to put on the shoe 30. The flap
3 is folded to the inside of the upper 1 and a padding (not shown in Fig. 3A) has
been arranged in the void formed between the flap 3 and the main part 2. Thus, the
padding forms a cushioning for the user's heel.
[0059] The flap 3 is also fixed to the main part 2 at the lower edge of the flap 3 by a
seam 7 which is made by stitching. Other examples include gluing or welding the flap
3 to the main part 2. The upper 1 comprises laces 8. The upper 1 is attached to a
sole structure 9 (e.g. a midsole or strobel board) which can be made by sewing, welding
or gluing for example. In this specific embodiment, the upper 1 is made in two separate
pieces. The first piece is similar to the one shown in Figs. 1A-D and 2 defining the
heel and quarter areas (lateral-medial) and the second piece (only partially visible
in Fig. 3A) is the one defining the toe and tongue.
[0060] Fig. 3B shows another example of a shoe 30 comprising an upper 1 according to the
present invention. In this embodiment, only the tongue and the front/throat part are
knitted. In this example, the upper 1 comprises a flap 3 which is arranged at the
upper end of a tongue portion 10 of the upper 1. The flap 3 is folded such that it
covers a portion of the tongue 10 and of the laces 8 of the upper 1. Just like in
the example of Figures 1A-1D, the flap 3 is connected to the main part 2 of the upper
2 via a transition portion (not visible in Fig. 3B) and the three parts are made as
a unitary knit construction in a single knitting process.
[0061] Figures 4A-4D show another example of a portion of a knitted upper 1 having a main
part 2, a flap 3 and a transition part 4 which is similar to the embodiment of Figures
1A-1D, wherein
[0062] Fig. 4A shows the front side and Fig. 4B shows the back side. In the example of Figures
4A-4D, a heel foam 11 and a reinforcement sheet 12 (shown in Fig. 4D) are inserted
in the void formed between the flap 3 and the main part 2. The reinforcement sheet
12 is heat activated for three-dimensional shaping. Thus, a cushioning and a stiffening
at the heel portion of the upper 1 is achieved. Generally, in the context of the present
invention, other components may be inserted into a void formed between the flap 3
and the main part 2 of the upper 1, namely a heel counter, a toe cap, an eyestays
reinforcement etc. The position and/or shape of the flap 3 may vary depending on the
particular type of application.
[0063] Fig. 5 illustrates a method 100 of manufacturing an upper 1 as described herein.
The method 100 generally comprises a step 110 which is knitting of the main part 2
of the upper 1, a step 120 of knitting the transition part 4 of the upper 1and a step
130 of knitting the flap 3 of the upper 1. It is to be noted, that the steps can generally
be performed in an arbitrary order as long as the process is a single knitting process
to obtain an upper 1 with a unitary knit construction and as long as the step 120
(knitting the transition part) is not the first or last step.
[0064] The process can be performed on a flat or circular knitting machine.
[0065] Optionally, in the manufacturing method 100, after knitting the main part 2, transition
part 4 and flap 3, the upper 1 can be subject to steam. Further optionally, a foam,
reinforcement or other component can be placed in a void formed between the flap 3
and main part 2. The inserted components can be free floating, bonded or stitched
to the knit. To avoid the wrinkling of the flap 3 during the manufacturing process
(too much fabric in the flap), stretch yarns can be used for knitting the flap 3.
Stretch yarns may not be present in the main part 2 or the transition part 4. Alternatively,
to avoid wrinkling of the flap 3, a tighter stitch tension can be used when knitting
the flap 3 compared to knitting the main part 2 and/or the transition part 4. The
idea underlying the present invention is also applicable to apparel such as sport
apparel. Thus, what has been described above with respect to an upper is valid for
apparel as well. In this case, the upper 1 described above is to be replaced by an
apparel such as for example a shirt, trousers, a sock, a hoodie, a jersey, a coat,
a bra etc. Thus, the upper 1 serves as an exemplary embodiment for an apparel. Embodiments
of such an apparel include:
Apparel (1), comprising:
- a. a knitted main part (2);
- b. a knitted flap (3);
- c. a knitted transition part (4) connecting the flap (3) to the main part (2),
- d. wherein the main part (2), the flap (3) and the transition part (4) form a unitary
knit construction, and
- e. wherein the transition part (4) comprises a different knit structure and/or a different
yarn and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement compared to the main part (2) and/or
to the flap (3).
2. Apparel (1) according to embodiment 1, wherein the knit structure of the transition
part (4) comprises a first layer and a second layer overlapping the first layer and,
wherein the first layer comprises a different number of rows compared to the second
layer.
3. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1 or 2, wherein the transition part
(4) comprises at least one row comprising a plurality of loops the majority of which
are frontside loops and at least one another row comprising a plurality of loops the
majority of which are backside loops.
4. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-3, wherein the knit structure of
the transition part (4) is a single layer structure.
5. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-4, wherein the transition part (4)
comprises a first yarn, wherein the first yarn is different from a second yarn of
the main part (2) and/or the flap (3).
6. Apparel (1) according to embodiment 5, wherein the first yarn is more elastic than
the second yarn.
7. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 5 or 6, wherein the first yarn comprises
a different color than the second yarn.
8. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-7, wherein the transition part (4)
comprises a frontside layer and a backside layer and, wherein the frontside layer
comprises a more elastic yarn than the backside layer, or the backside layer comprises
a more elastic yarn than the frontside layer.
9. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-8, wherein the flap (3) is arranged
at a tongue portion of the apparel (1) such that it is adapted to cover at least a
portion of the tongue or, wherein the flap (3) is arranged at a heel portion of the
apparel (1).
10. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-9, wherein the flap (3) is folded
such that the flap (3) and a portion of the main part (2) of the apparel (1) form
a void.
11. Apparel (1) according to embodiment 10, wherein a padding and/or reinforcement
is arranged in the void.
12. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-11, wherein the flap (3) comprises
a Jacquard knit structure.
13. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-12, wherein the flap (3) comprises
a stretch yarn.
14. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-13, wherein the transition part
(4) comprises at least one yarn that is also present in the main part (2), wherein
the number of plies of this yarn in the transition part (4) is lower than the number
of plies in the. main part (2).
15. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-14, wherein the main part (2), the
transition part (4) and the flap (3) have been knitted in a single knitting process
forming a one-piece construction.
16. Apparel (1) according to one of embodiments 1-15, wherein the flap (3) has been
formed by partial knitting.
17. Method (100) for manufacturing an apparel comprising the steps:
- a. knitting (110) a main part;
- b. knitting (120) a flap;
- c. knitting (130) a transition part connecting the flap to the main part, wherein
steps a., b. and c. are performed in a single knitting process, and wherein the transition
part comprises a different knit structure and/or a different yarn and/or yarn combination
and/or yarn placement compared to the main part and/or to the flap.
18. Method (100) according to embodiment 17, wherein the knit structure of the transition
part comprises a first layer and a second layer overlapping the first layer and, wherein
step c. (130) comprises knitting the transition part such that the first layer comprises
a different number of rows compared to the second layer.
19. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 17 or 18, wherein step c. (130) comprises
knitting the transition part such that at least one row comprises a plurality of loops
the majority of which are frontside loops and at least one another row comprises a
plurality of loopy the majority of which are backside loops.
20. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 17-19, wherein step c. (130) comprises
knitting the transition part as a single layer structure.
21. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 17-20, wherein the transition part
comprises a first yarn, wherein the first yarn is different from a second yarn of
the main part and/or the flap.
22. Method (100) according to embodiment 21, wherein the first yarn is more elastic
than the second yarn.
23. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 21 or 22, wherein the first yarn
comprises a different color than the second yarn.
24. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 17-23, further comprising the step
of folding the flap such that the flap and a portion of the main part of the apparel
form a void.
25. Method (100) according to embodiment 24, further comprising the step of arranging
a padding and/or reinforcement in the void.
26. Method (100) according to embodiment 25, further comprising the step of securing
a free end of the flap to the main part after arranging the padding and or/ reinforcement
in the void.
27. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 17-26, wherein step b. (120) comprises
knitting the flap as a Jacquard knit structure.
28. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 17-27, wherein the flap comprises
a stretch yarn.
29. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 17-28, wherein step b. (120) comprises
knitting the flap using partial knitting.
30. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 17-29, wherein in step b. (120) a
tighter stitch tension is used than in steps a. (110) and/or c. (130).
[0066] Further embodiments of an upper include:
- 1. Upper (1) for a shoe, comprising:
- a. a knitted main part (2), wherein the main part (2) is adapted to form at least
a part of a void for receiving a foot of a wearer of the shoe;
- b. a knitted flap (3); and
- c. a knitted transition part (4) connecting the flap (3) to the main part (2),
- d. wherein the main part (2), the flap (3) and the transition part (4) form a unitary
knit construction, and
- e. wherein the transition part (4) comprises a different knit structure and/or a different
yarn and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement compared to the main part (2) and/or
to the flap (3).
- 2. Upper (1) according to embodiment 1, wherein the knit structure of the transition
part (4) comprises a first layer and a second layer overlapping the first layer and,
wherein the first layer comprises a different number of rows compared to the second
layer.
- 3. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1 or 2, wherein the transition part (4)
comprises at least one row comprising a plurality of loops the majority of which are
frontside loops and at least one another row comprising a plurality of loops the majority
of which are backside loops.
- 4. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-3, wherein the knit structure of the
transition part (4) is a single layer structure.
- 5. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-4, wherein the transition part (4)
comprises a first yarn, wherein the first yarn is different from a second yarn of
the main part (2) and/or the flap (3).
- 6. Upper (1) according to embodiment 5, wherein the first yarn is more elastic than
the second yarn.
- 7. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 5 or 6, wherein the first yarn comprises
a different color than the second yarn.
- 8. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-7, wherein the transition part (4)
comprises a frontside layer and a backside layer and, wherein the frontside layer
comprises a more elastic yarn than the backside layer, or the backside layer comprises
a more elastic yarn than the frontside layer.
- 9. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-8, wherein the flap (3) is arranged
at a tongue portion of the upper (1) such that it is adapted to cover at least a portion
of the tongue or, wherein the flap (3) is arranged at a heel portion of the upper
(1).
- 10. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-8, wherein the flap (3) is arranged
in a lace area of the upper (1) such that it is adapted to reinforce the lace area.
- 11. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-10, wherein the flap (3) is folded
such that the flap (3) and a portion of the main part (2) of the upper (1) form a
void.
- 12. Upper (1) according to embodiment 11, wherein a padding and/or reinforcement is
arranged in the void.
- 13. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-12, wherein the flap (3) comprises
a Jacquard knit structure.
- 14. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-13, wherein the flap (3) comprises
a stretch yarn.
- 15. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-14, wherein the transition part (4)
comprises at least one yarn that is also present in the main part (2), wherein the
number of plies of this yarn in the transition part (4) is lower than the number of
plies in the main part (2).
- 16. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-15, wherein the main part (2), the
transition part (4) and the flap (3) have been knitted in a single knitting process
forming a one-piece construction.
- 17. Upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-16, wherein the flap (3) has been
formed by partial knitting.
- 18. Shoe comprising:
- a. an upper (1) according to one of embodiments 1-17; and
- b. a sole structure attached to the upper (1).
- 19. Method (100) for manufacturing an upper for a shoe comprising the steps:
- a. knitting (110) a main part, wherein the main part is adapted to form at least a
part of a void for receiving a foot of a wearer of the shoe;
- b. knitting (120) a flap;
- c. knitting (130) a transition part connecting the flap to the main part, wherein
steps a., b. and c. are performed in a single knitting process, and
wherein the transition part comprises a different knit structure and/or a different
yarn and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement compared to the main part and/or
to the flap.
- 20. Method (100) according to embodiment 19, wherein the knit structure of the transition
part comprises a first layer and a second layer overlapping the first layer and, wherein
step c. (130) comprises knitting the transition part such that the first layer comprises
a different number of rows compared to the second layer.
- 21. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19 or 20, wherein step c. (130) comprises
knitting the transition part such that at least one row comprises a plurality of loops
the majority of which are frontside loops and at least one another row comprises a
plurality of loopy the majority of which are backside loops.
- 22. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-21, wherein step c. (130) comprises
knitting the transition part as a single layer structure.
- 23. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-22, wherein the transition part
comprises a first yarn, wherein the first yarn is different from a second yarn of
the main part and/or the flap.
- 24. Method (100) according to embodiment 23, wherein the first yarn is more elastic
than the second yarn.
- 25. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 23 or 24, wherein the first yarn
comprises a different color than the second yarn.
- 26. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-25, wherein the flap is arranged
at a heel portion or at a tongue portion of the upper such that it is adapted to cover
at least a portion of the tongue.
- 27. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-25, wherein the flap is arranged
in a lace area of the upper such that it is adapted to reinforce the lace area.
- 28. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-27, further comprising the step
of folding the flap such that the flap and a portion of the main part of the upper
form a void.
- 29. Method (100) according to embodiment 28, further comprising the step of arranging
a padding and/or reinforcement in the void.
- 30. Method (100) according to embodiment 29, further comprising the step of securing
a free end of the flap to the main part after arranging the padding and or/ reinforcement
in the void.
- 31. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-30, wherein step b. (120) comprises
knitting the flap as a Jacquard knit structure.
- 32. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-31, wherein the flap comprises
a stretch yarn.
- 33. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-32, wherein step b. (120) comprises
knitting the flap using partial knitting.
- 34. Method (100) according to one of embodiments 19-33, wherein in step b. (120) a
tighter stitch tension is used than in steps a. (110) and/or c. (130).
List of reference numerals
[0067]
- 1
- Upper
- 2
- Main part
- 3
- Flap
- 4
- Transition part
- 5
- Lace holes
- 6
- Partial knitting areas
- 7
- Seam
- 8
- Laces
- 9
- Sole structure
- 10
- Shoe
- 11
- Foam
- 12
- Reinforcement sheet
- 100
- Manufacturing method
- 110
- Step a. of knitting main part
- 120
- Step b. of knitting flap
- 130
- Step c. of knitting transition part
1. Upper (1) for a shoe, comprising:
a. a knitted main part (2), wherein the main part (2) is adapted to form at least
a part of a void for receiving a foot of a wearer of the shoe;
b. a knitted flap (3); and
c. a knitted transition part (4) connecting the flap (3) to the main part (2),
d. wherein the main part (2), the flap (3) and the transition part (4) form a unitary
knit construction, and
e. wherein the transition part (4) comprises a different knit structure and/or a different
yarn and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement compared to the main part (2) and/or
to the flap (3).
2. Upper (1) according to claim 1, wherein:
the knit structure of the transition part (4) comprises a first layer and a second
layer overlapping the first layer and, wherein the first layer comprises a different
number of rows compared to the second layer; and/or
the transition part (4) comprises at least one row comprising a plurality of loops
the majority of which are frontside loops and at least one another row comprising
a plurality of loops the majority of which are backside loops; and/or
the knit structure of the transition part (4) is a single layer structure.
3. Upper (1) according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the transition part (4) comprises a first
yarn, wherein the first yarn is different from a second yarn of the main part (2)
and/or the flap (3); preferably wherein:
the first yarn is more elastic than the second yarn; and/or
the first yarn comprises a different color than the second yarn.
4. Upper (1) according to one of claims 1-3, wherein the transition part (4) comprises
a frontside layer and a backside layer and, wherein the frontside layer comprises
a more elastic yarn than the backside layer, or the backside layer comprises a more
elastic yarn than the frontside layer.
5. Upper (1) according to one of claims 1-4, wherein:
the flap (3) is arranged at a tongue portion of the upper (1) such that it is adapted
to cover at least a portion of the tongue or, wherein the flap (3) is arranged at
a heel portion of the upper (1); or
the flap (3) is arranged in a lace area of the upper (1) such that it is adapted to
reinforce the lace area.
6. Upper (1) according to one of claims 1-5, wherein the flap (3) is folded such that
the flap (3) and a portion of the main part (2) of the upper (1) form a void; preferably
wherein a padding and/or reinforcement is arranged in the void.
7. Upper (1) according to one of claims 1-6, wherein:
the flap (3) comprises a Jacquard knit structure; and/or
the flap (3) comprises a stretch yarn; and/or
the transition part (4) comprises at least one yarn that is also present in the main
part (2), wherein the number of plies of this yarn in the transition part (4) is lower
than the number of plies in the main part (2); and/or
the main part (2), the transition part (4) and the flap (3) have been knitted in a
single knitting process forming a one-piece construction; and/or
the flap (3) has been formed by partial knitting.
8. Shoe comprising:
a. an upper (1) according to one of claims 1-7; and
b. a sole structure attached to the upper (1).
9. Method (100) for manufacturing an upper for a shoe comprising the steps:
a. knitting (110) a main part, wherein the main part is adapted to form at least a
part of a void for receiving a foot of a wearer of the shoe;
b. knitting (120) a flap;
c. knitting (130) a transition part connecting the flap to the main part, wherein
steps a., b. and c. are performed in a single knitting process, and wherein the transition
part comprises a different knit structure and/or a
different yarn and/or yarn combination and/or yarn placement compared to the main
part and/or to the flap.
10. Method (100) according to claim 9, wherein:
the knit structure of the transition part comprises a first layer and a second layer
overlapping the first layer and, wherein step c. (130) comprises knitting the transition
part such that the first layer comprises a different number of rows compared to the
second layer; and/or
step c. (130) comprises knitting the transition part such that at least one row comprises
a plurality of loops the majority of which are frontside loops and at least one another
row comprises a plurality of loopy the majority of which are backside loops; and/or
step c. (130) comprises knitting the transition part as a single layer structure.
11. Method (100) according to claim 9 or 10, wherein the transition part comprises a first
yarn, wherein the first yarn is different from a second yarn of the main part and/or
the flap; preferably wherein the first yarn is more elastic than the second yarn.
12. Method (100) according to claim 11, wherein the first yarn comprises a different color
than the second yarn.
13. Method (100) according to one of claims 9-12, wherein:
the flap is arranged at a heel portion or at a tongue portion of the upper such that
it is adapted to cover at least a portion of the tongue; or
the flap is arranged in a lace area of the upper such that it is adapted to reinforce
the lace area.
14. Method (100) according to one of claims 9-13, further comprising the step of folding
the flap such that the flap and a portion of the main part of the upper form a void;
preferably further comprising the step of arranging a padding and/or reinforcement
in the void; most preferably further comprising the step of securing a free end of
the flap to the main part after arranging the padding and or/ reinforcement in the
void.
15. Method (100) according to one of claims 9-14, wherein:
step b. (120) comprises knitting the flap as a Jacquard knit structure; and/or the
flap comprises a stretch yarn; and/or
step b. (120) comprises knitting the flap using partial knitting; and/or in step b.
(120) a tighter stitch tension is used than in steps a. (110) and/or c. (130).