|
(11) | EP 0 132 486 B1 |
| (12) | EUROPEAN PATENT SPECIFICATION |
|
|
| (54) |
Method for automatic sewing of zippers and an automatic sewing machine for accomplishing the method Verfahren für das automatische Nähen von Reissverschlüssen und automatische Nähmaschine dafür Méthode pour la couture automatique des fermetures à cuiseur et machine à coudre automatique pour ce faire |
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Note: Within nine months from the publication of the mention of the grant of the European patent, any person may give notice to the European Patent Office of opposition to the European patent granted. Notice of opposition shall be filed in a written reasoned statement. It shall not be deemed to have been filed until the opposition fee has been paid. (Art. 99(1) European Patent Convention). |
[0001] The present invention refers to a method for automatically guiding garments from a loading table to a sewing machine for sewing of zippers, and also an automatic sewing machine for accomplishing the method and which comprises a device for feeding of the garments and zippers to the presser foot of the sewing machine.
Background of the invention
[0002] Sewing of zippers is a relatively difficult operation and requires a long time of training. For this reason different types of automatic sewing machines have been developed, which may be operated by unqualified labour force after a short time of training. The operator, however, has to manually guide the material during the sewing operation, whereby the working pace is low and the production small.
[0003] At previously known automatic sewing machines for sewing of zippers, the zippers are often located lowest, i.e. nearest the bottom plate, while the garment which should be provided with the zipper is located above it. The reason to this location is that this is the most simple to transport and guide the zipper-band. A drawback with this type of device is that the zipper-band and the garment are stretched differently, and therefore an even seam is very hard to acheive; especially if the garment is of elastic material. It has also been tried to arrange brake-devices, which should obstruct extensions in the material, but only with a little success.
[0004] In US-A-2.329.991 there is disclosed a sewing machine provided with guide means for the zipper inclined against the presser foot of the sewing machine, said guide means being arranged to guide the zipper from above onto the garment under a predetermined tension to the presser foot.
The object of the invention and its most important characteristics
[0005] The object of the invention is to provide a method of automatically guiding the garment and the zipper to the sewing machine, in such a way that the manual guidance and thereby also the extensions in the material are eliminated. A further object of the invention is to considerably increase the production capacity, and also make it possible to sew zippers in lined garments. This has been solved by that the edge sections of the garment, along which edge sections a zipper is intended to be sewed on, are located essentially horizontally, edge to edge and above each other, that gripping bars of a gripping device grip the garment along said edge sections, a distance inside and essentially parallel to the edges, and turn the garment to a vertical hanging position, that the edge sections folded over the gripping bars are separated from each other by means of a separating device to a position essentially parallel to the gripping bars, that the separated edge sections are forwarded by the gripping device in a direction towards the sewing machine into a first transport device, that the separated edge sections are first pressed by the gripping bars and then by separate pressure bars against the first transport device which feeds the separated edge sections of the presser foot of the sewing machine, and that a zipper is fed from above into the edge sections just in front of the presser foot of the sewing machine for sewing.
[0006] To accomplish the method described above there is also proposed an automatic sewing machine which solves the problems mentioned above by means of, that it comprises a gripping device having gripping bars, which extend horizontally outside a loading table, that the gripping device is turnable from one position with its gripping bars being oriented vertically to another position with its gripping bars being oriented horizontally, in which latter position the press- pinch between the gripping bars is located in the feeding direction of the sewing machine, that a separating device is arranged to separate the garment edge sections folded over the gripping bars from each other, that the gripping device is displaceable in the feeding direction of the sewing machine above a first transport device and designed to transfer the edge sections onto the first transport device, that above the first transport device is located a second transport device for feeding a zipper onto the edge sections just in front of the presser foot of the sewing machine.
Brief description of the drawings
[0007]
Figure 1 shows a garment for example a blouse, in a view from above and which is intended to be provided with a zipper.
Figure 2 and 3 show in perspective two phases during fetching of the garment.
Figure 4 shows the loading table according to the invention in a perspective view.
Figure 5 shows the table according to figure 4 in a view from above, and on which table a garment has been located.
Figure 6 shows a cross section along the line VI-VI in figure 4.
Figure 7 shows a cross section along the line VII-VII in figure 5.
Figure 8 shows a cross section analogous with figure 7 through the loading table with the gripping device in cross section and in fetching position.
Figure 9 shows schematically a side view of a part of the automatic sewing machine.
Figure 10 shows the automatic sewing machine in a view from above, but without the transport devices for the zippers and lining, if any.
Figure 11 shows a cross section through the first transport device of the automatic sewing machine with the gripping device in delivery position.
Description of embodiments
[0008] The garment 11 shown in figure 1, which should be provided with a zipper, could be partly sewed with one seam 12, but is otherwise open laterally. The method according to the invention may however also be used at such garments, which yet are not sewed or where the zipper should extend along the entire length of the garment. The garment 11 is folded in such a way that its edge sections 13, at which the zipper is to be sewed, are located edge to edge on each other and located on a loading table 14, as is shown in figure 5. The loading table is provided with a stop 15, which also forms an extension of the table top, which corresponds to the desired seam allowance. The stop is pivotable around a hinge 16 located at the underside of the table top. The stop is also provided with a mechanism (not shown) which may turn the stop from the position shown in figure 7, where it forms a stop for the edge section 13 of the garment to the position shown in figure 8, in which the stop has been turned to an inactive position beneath the table top.
[0009] The loading table 14 is also provided with two dividing plates 17 and 18 located at some distance from each other and from the table 14, which extend laterally over the table at its one front edge. The dividing plates 17 and 18 are bent upwards from each other at the end directed against the stop 15 forming a funnel-formed opening. As can be seen in figure 6 the garment 11 is located partly in direct contact to the stop 15 and the side parts 19 and 20 of the garment partly are separated at their upper end in such a way that the lower side part will be located beneath the dividing plate 18 while the upper side part will be located on the top of the dividing plate 17.
[0010] A gripping device 21 is arranged at the side of the loading table 14, which gripping device is displaceable in the direction to and from the loading table, as is shown by the arrow 22, and partly it is displaceable in its longitudinal direction towards and from a first conveyor 23 in the direction of the arrow 24 and partly it is pivotable around its longitudinal axle around the arrow 25. The gripping device 21 consists of two transferring arms 26 which at their free ends are provided with gripping bars 27. The gripping device is pivotable from a position in which the gripping bars 27, which are brought together, are horizontal to a position in which they are located vertically. The automatic sewing machine includes also a separating device 28 comprising two parts of which one dividing device 29 is located at the gripping device 21 and which comprises a knife blade 31 pivotable around an axle 30, while the other dividing device 32 comprises a plough- formed tip located at the support 33 of the first transport device 23. In the transport position of the gripping device 21, i.e., when the gripping bars 27 are located horizontally the knife blade 31 of the separating device is located in front of the plough tip 32 and at a movement of the gripping device 21 in the direction of the arrow 24, i.e. towards the sewing machine 34, the knife blade 31 will be turned backwards against the action of a spring which is not shown.
[0011] The first transport device 23 includes two parallel endless transport belts 35 and 36 which are arranged at a small distance from each other. Pressure bars 37 are arranged above these, which pressure bars can be pressed against the transport belts, and which are vertically adjustable so that the gripping bars 27 of the gripping device 21 may be inserted between these and the transport belts 35, 36 resp.
[0012] A second transport device 38 is arranged above the first transport device 23. The second transport device includes a not shown device for feeding of a zipper in the form of a band from a store spool, but it is also possible to feed zippers in pieces via the transport device. The last part of the transport device 38 shown in figure 9, comprises an inclined guiding chute 39, which opens just on this side of the presser foot 40 of the sewing machine 34. If necessary there may further be a third transport device 41 in near connection to and above the second transport device 38 and which is used for feeding of a lining if any.
[0013] The function of the automatic sewing machine The only manual work which has to be executed is putting the side parts 19, 20 of the garment together in such a way that their edge sections 13 at which the zipper should be sewed on, are located edge to edge and above each other, whereby the garment is located on the loading table 14 with the said edge sections against the stop 15 and with its upper part 19 separated by means of separating plates 17 and 18.
[0014] For fetching the garment the gripping device 21 is turned to the position shown in figure 8, whereby the gripping bars 27 are somewhat separated so that these may grip over the edge section 13 which extends from the table 14. Just before the gripping device has reached the loading table the stop 15 is turned downwards beneath the table, so that the edge section 13 is uncovered.
[0015] At the same time as the gripping device has been moved against the loading table, the knife blade 31 of the separating device 28 has also been moved into the space between the separating plates 17 and 18, so that when the gripping device has pinched the edge section 13 between the gripping bars 27 and been displaced back to its starting point in the direction of the arrow 22, the knife blade 31 will keep the side parts of the garment separated as is shown in figure 2. During this horizontal movement the gripping device 21 at the same time is turned around its turning axle 42 to the transport position which is shown in figure 11, in which the garment will be hanging vertical like the knife blade 31, which also separates edge sections 13 of the garment 11, located above the gripping bars 27, as schematically shown in figure 3.
[0016] With the garment in this position the gripping device 21 is displaced along a transport track 43 in a direction towards the sewing machine 34, whereby the knife blade 31 will hit against the plough tip 32, so that the side parts of the garment at one hand will be located on each side of the support 33 of the first transport device 23 and on the other hand the knife blade will be turned backwards at the movement of the gripping device in the direction of the arrow 24. The pressuring bars 37 are raised up to the point where the gripping device 21 has reached its front end position, in which the arms of the gripping device are turned outwards at the same time as the pressure bars are lowered in such a way that the pressure bars 37 may press the edge sections 13 against the conveyor belts 35 and 36. These are displaced in the direction towards the sewing machine 34 and transport the garment with the folded edge sections facing this. In order to lower the friction between the side parts of the garment and the support 33 this may possibly be perforated and its interior could be connected to a source of compressed air, so that the garment is lifted a little from the support 33. By means of a photocell (not shown) for example the front edge of the garment is detected when this has come to a certain position whereby the providing of the zipper may be synchronized, in such a way that both the garment and the zipper meet each other in an exact position just before both are fed to the presser foot 40 of the sewing machine 34 and the sewing of the zipper band may begin. The sewing machine 34 is conveniently in a known manner provided with double needles.
1. Method for automatically guiding of garments from a loading table (14) to a sewing
machine (34) for sewing of zippers, characterized in that the edge sections (13) of
the garment (11), along which edge sections a zipper is intended to be sewed on, are
located essentially horizontally, edge to edge and above each other, that gripping
bars (27) of a gripping device (21) grip the garment along said edge sections, a distance
inside and essentially parallel to the edges, and turn the garment to a vertical hanging
position, that the edge sections (13) folded over the gripping bars (27) are separated
from each other by means of a separating device (28, 31, 32) to a position essentially
parallel to the gripping bars (27), that the separated edge sections (13) are forwarded
by the gripping device (21, 27) in a direction towards the sewing machine (34) onto
a first transport device (23), that the separated edge sections (13) are first pressed
by the gripping bars (27) and then by separate pressure bars (37) against the first
transport device (23) which feeds the separated edge sections (13) to the presser
foot of the sewing machine (34), and that a zipper is fed from above into the edge
sections (13) just in front of the presser foot (40) of the sewing machine (34) for
sewing.
2. Automatic sewing machine for carrying out the method according to claim 1, comprising
a device for feeding of garments and zippers to the presser foot of the sewing machine,
characterized in that it comprises a gripping device (21) having gripping bars (27),
which extend horizontally outside a loading table (14), that the gripping device (21)
is turnable from one position with its gripping bars (27) being oriented vertically
to another position with its gripping bars (27) being oriented horizontally, in which
latter position the press- pinch between the gripping bars is located in the feeding
direction of the sewing machine (34), that a separating device (28, 31, 32) is arranged
to separate the garment's (11) edge sections (13) folded over the gripping bars (27)
from each other, that the gripping device (21) is displaceable in the feeding direction
of the sewing machine above a first transport device (23) and designed to transfer
the edge sections (13) onto the first transport device (23), that above the first
transport device (23) is located a second transport device (38) for feeding a zipper
onto the edge sections (13) just in front of the presserfoot (40) of the sewing machine
(34).
3. Automatic sewing machine according to claim 2, characterized in that the separating
device (28) includes a first dividing device (29) which is located at the gripping
device (21) and which is designed as a turnable knife blade (31) intended to be located
between the two edge sections (13) of the garment (11), and of second plough formed
dividing device (32) located at the first transport device (23).
4. Automatic sewing machine according to claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the
loading table (14) is provided with a turnable stop (15) which in its turned aside
position is arranged to uncover an edge section (13) of the garment (11).
5. Automatic sewing machine according to claims 3 and 4, characterized in that the
loading table (14) is provided with at least one separating plate (17), located at
some distance above the loading table (14) for separating the front edge sections
of the garment, seen in the feeding direction of the sewing machine, and that the
knife blade (31) of the separating device (28) is arranged to be inserted between
the separating plate (17) and one edge section of the garment at the same time as
the gripping device (21) fetches the garment.
6. Automatic sewing machine according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the first transport device (23) is provided with double, parallel and endless
conveyor belts (35, 36) and pressure bars (37) orthe like which can be pressed against
the belts (35, 36) between which pressure bars (37) and belts (35, 36) the gripping
bars (27) of the gripping device (21) are introduc- able for delivery of said edge
sections (13).
7. Automatic sewing machine according to anyone of the preceding claims, characterized
in that the second transport device (38) comprises a guiding chute (39) for the zippers
inclined against the presser foot (40) of the sewing machine (34), and that a third
transport device (41) is arranged close to the second transport device (38) for feeding
of a garment lining above the zipper.
1. Verfahren zum automatischen Führen von Kleidungsstücken von einem Ladetisch (14)
zu einer Nähmaschine (34) zum Annähen von Reißverschlüssen dadurch gekennzeichnet,
daß die Randabschnitte (13) des Wäschestückes entlang welchen die Randabschnitte des
Reißverschlusses angenäht werden sollen, im wesentlichen horizontal, Rand zu Rand
und übereinander angeordnet werden, daß Greifstäbe (27) einer Greifvorrichtung (21)
das Kleidungsstück entlang besagter Randabschnitte in einen Abstand nach innen und
im wesentlichen parallel zu den Rändern ergreifen und das Kleidungsstück in eine vertikale
Hängestellung drehen, daß die über die Greifstäbe (27) gefalteten Randabschnitte (13)
mittels einer Trennvorrichtung (28, 31, 32) in eine Stellung im wesentlichen parallel
zu den Greifstäben (27) von einander getrennt werden, daß die getrennten Randabschnitte
(13) von der Greifvorrichtung (21, 27) in einer Richtung zur Nähmaschine (34) auf
eine erste Transportvorrichtung (23) weiterbefördert wird, daß die getrennten Randabschnitte
(13) zuerst durch die Greifstäbe (27) und dann durch getrennte Druckstäbe (37) gegen
die erste Transportvorrichtung (23) gepreßt werden, welche die getrennten Randabschnitte
(13) dem Nähfuß (40) der Nähmaschine (34) zuführt, und daß der Reißverschluß von oben
in die Randabschnitte (13) unmittelbar vor dem Nähfuß (40) der Nähmaschine (34) zum
Nähen zugeführt wird.
2. Automatische Nähmaschine zur Durchführung des Verfahrens gemäß Anspruch 1 mit einer
Vorrichtung zum Zuführen von Kleidungsstücken und Reißverschlüssen zu dem Nähfuß einer
Nähmaschine, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß sie eine Greifvorrichtung (21) mit Greifstäben
(27) aufweist, welche sich horizontal außerhalb eines Ladetisches (14) erstrecken,
daß die Greifvorrichtung (21) von einer, mit ihren Greifstäben (27) vertikal orientierten
Stellung in eine andere, mit ihren Greifstäben (27) horizontal orientierten Stellung
drehbar ist, in welchletzterer Stellung die Druckquetschung zwischen den Greifstäben
in Zuführrichtung der Nähmaschine (34) angeordnet ist, daß zum Trennen, der über die
Greifstäbe (27) gefalteten Randabschnitte (13) des Kleidungsstükkes voneinander eine
Trennvorrichtung (28,31,32) angeordnet ist, daß die Greifvorrichtung (21) in Zuführrichtung
der Nähmaschine über eine erste Transportvorrichtung (23) verlagerbar und zur Übergabe
der Randabschnitte (13) auf die erste Transportvorrichtung ausgebildet ist, daß über
der ersten Transportvorrichtung (23) eine zweite Transportvorrichtung (38) zum Zuführen
eines Reißverschlusses auf die Randabschnitte (13) unmittelbar vor dem Nähfuß (40)
der Nähmaschine (34) angeordnet ist.
3. Automatische Nähmaschine gemäß Anspruch 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß die Trennvorrichtung
(28) eine erste Teilvorrichtung (29), welche bei der Greifvorrichtung (21) angeordnet
und als drehbare Messerklinge (31) zum Anordnen zwischen den beiden Randabschnitten
(13) des Kleidungsstückes ausgebildet ist, und eine zweite, bei der ersten Transportvorrichtung
(23) angeordnete, pflugförmige Teilvorrichtung (32) umfaßt.
4. Automatische Nähmaschine gemäß Anspruch 2 oder 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, daß der
Ladetisch (14) mit einem drehbaren Anschlag (15) versehen ist, welcher in seiner zur
Seite gedrehten Stellung zum Freimachen eines Randabschnittes (13) des Kleidungsstückes
(11) angeordnet ist.
5. Automatische Nähmaschine gemäß den Ansprüchen 3 und 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet,
daß der Ladetisch (14) mit zumindest einer, in einigen Abstand über dem Ladetisch
(14) angeordneten Trennplatte (17) zum Trennen der, in Zuführrichtung der Nähmaschine
gesehen, vorderen Randabschnitte des Kleidungsstückes versehen ist und daß die Messerklinge
(31) der Trennvorrichtung (28) zum Einsetzen zwischen der Trennvorrichtung (28) zum
Einsetzen zwischen der Trennplatte (17) und einem Randabschnitt des Kleidungsstückes
zur selben Zeit, zu der die Greifvorrichtung (21) das Kleidungsstück erfaßt angeordnet
ist.
6. Automatisch Nähmaschine gemäß irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch
gekennzeichnet, daß die erste Transportvorrichtung (23) mit doppelten, parallelen
und endlosen Förderhändern (35, 36) und Druckstäben (37) oder dergleichen versehen
ist, welche gegen die Bänder (35, 36) gedrückt werden können, zwischen welche Druckstäbe
(37) und Bänder (35, 36) die Greifstäbe (27) der Greifvorrichtung (21) zum Abliefern
besagter Randabschnitte (13) einführbar sind.
7. Automatische Nähmaschine gemäß irgendeinem der vorhergehenden Ansprüche, dadurch
gekennzeichnet, daß die zweite Transportvorrichtung (38) eine gegen den Nähfuß (40)
der Nähmaschine geneigte Führungsrutsche (39) für die Reißverschlüsse aufweist, und
daß eine dritte Transportvorrichtung (41) zum Zuführen eines Futterstoffes über den
Reißverschluß nahe der zweiten Transportvorrichtung (38) angeordnet ist.
1. Procédé de guidage automatique de vêtements depuis une table de chargement (14)
jusqu'à une machine à coudre (34) pour réaliser la couture de fermetures à glissière,
caractérisé en ce que les sections de bord (13) du vêtement (11), le long desquelles
une fermeture à glissière doit être cousue, sont disposées sensiblement horizontalement,
bord à bord et en recouvrement réciproque, que des barres de saisie (27) d'un dispositif
de saisie (21) saisissent le vêtement le long desdites sections de bord, sur une certaine
distance à l'intérieur de ces bords et sensiblement parallèlement à ces bords, et
font pivoter le vêtement pour l'amener dans une position verticale suspendue, que
les sections de bord (13) repliées sur les barres de saisie (27) sont séparées l'une
de l'autre au moyen d'un dispositif de séparation (28, 31, 32) en étant amenées dans
une position sensiblement parallèle aux barres de saisie (27), que le dispositif de
saisie (21, 27) fait avancer les sections de bord séparées (13) en direction de la
machine à coudre (34) sur un premier dispositif de transport (23), que les sections
de bord séparées (13) sont repoussées tout d'abord par les barres de saisie (27),
puis par des barres séparées de compression (37) contre le premier dispositif de transport
(23), qui fait avancer les sections de bord séparées (13) jusqu'au pied presseur de
la machine à coudre (34), et qu'une fermeture à glissière est introduite à partir
du dessus dans les sections de bord (13) juste en face du pied presseur (40) de la
machine à coudre (34) pour l'exécution de la couture.
2. Machine à coudre automatique pour l'exécution du procédé selon la revendication
1 comportant un dispositif servant à faire avancer les vêtements et les fermetures
à glissière jusqu'au pied presseur de la machine à coudre, caractérisée en ce qu'elle
comporte un dispositif de saisie (21) comportant des barres de saisie (27), qui s'étendent
horizontalement à l'extérieur d'une table de chargement (14), que le dispositif de
saisie (21) peut pivoter d'une position, dans laquelle ses barres de saisie (27) sont
orientées verticalement, jusque dans une autre position dans laquelle ses barres de
saisie (27) sont orientées horizontalement et dans laquelle dernière position le pincement
par compression entre les barres de saisie se situe dans la direction d'avance de
la machine à coudre (34), qu'un dispositif de séparation (28, 31, 32) est agencé de
manière à séparer l'une de l'autre les sections de bord (13) du vêtement (11), repliées
au-dessus des barres de saisie (27), que le dispositif de saisie (21) est déplaçable
dans la direction d'avance de la machine à coudre au-dessus d'un premier dispositif
d'entraînement (23) et est conçu pour transférer les sections de bord (13) sur le
premier dispositif d'entraînement (23), et qu'au-dessus du premier dispositif d'entraînement
(23) se trouve disposé un second dispositif d'entraînement (38) servant à faire avancer
une fermeture à glissière sur les sections de bord (13) juste en avant du pied presseur
(40) de la machine à coudre (34).
3. Machine à coudre automatique selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que le
dispositif de séparation (28) comporte un premier dispositif diviseur (29) qui est
situé sur le dispositif de saisie (21) et qui est agencé sous la forme d'une lame
de coupe pivotante (21) destinée à être située entre les deux sections de bord (13)
du vêtement (11), et un second dispositif diviseur en forme de soc (32) situé sur
le premier dispositif de transport (23).
4. Machine à coudre automatique selon la revendication 2 ou 3, caractérisée en ce
que la table de chargement (14) est munie d'une butée pivotante (15) qui, dans se
position pivotée latéralement, est disposée de manière à découvrir une section de
bord (13) du vêtement (11).
5. Machine à coudre automatique selon les revendications 3 et 4, caractérisée en ce
que la table de chargement (14) comporte au moins une plaque séparatrice (17), située
à une certaine distance au-dessus de la table de chargement (14) et servant à séparer
les sections de bord avant du vêtement, lorsqu'on regarde dans la direction d'avance
de la machine à coudre, et que la lame de coupe (31) du dispositif de séparation (28)
est agencée de manière à être insérée entre la plaque séparatrice (17) et une section
de bord du vêtement, en même temps que le dispositif de saisie (21) extrait le vêtement.
6. Machine à coudre automatique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes,
caractérisée en ce que le premier dispositif d'entraînement (23) est muni de bandes
convoyeuses sans fin parallèles et doubles (35, 36) et de barres de pression (37)
ou analogues, qui peuvent être repoussées contre les bandes (35, 36), les barres de
saisie (27) du dispositif de saisie (21) pouvant être introduites entre les barres
de pression (37) et les bandes (35, 36) en vue de la délivrance desdites sections
de bord (13).
7. Machine à coudre automatique selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes,
caractérisée en ce que le second dispositif d'entraînement (38) comporte une goulotte
de guidage (39) pour les fermetures à glissière, qui est inclinée par rapport au pied
presseur (40) de la machine à coudre (34) et qu'un troisième dispositif d'entraînement
(41) est disposé à proximité du second dispositif d'entraînement (38) pour faire avancer
une doublure du vêtement au-dessus de la fermeture à glissière.